Watched a couple of your vids. U do a good job. Had the same 1720lb capacity HF trailer....bought in 2009 for $340. I put deck boards on bottom utilizing existing frame holes. It was a great little trailer...it hauled a couple pianos, soil, rocks, trash, furniture you name it. It was killed 2 years ago by a hurricane...a large branch fell from about 40 feet and bent it in half. I'd say I got my $340 worth, but pretty sure it would've lasted another 10 years. Great trailer.
Thank you. That’s a wild ending for your trailer. I feel like I’ve got my money out of it after the first big trip vs. the cost of renting a uhaul trailer.
I bought the 1195# folding version almost 20 years ago. It's no joke to say I've hauled more stuff with that trailer than most people (on the east coast) have EVER hauled in the beds if their pickups. Best $200 I've ever spent.
Thanks for your unbiased review of this trailer. I'm designing a tear drop trailer and plan on using this Harbor Freight trailer as the base. Bolts won't be an issue for me as it won't be folder, so I am going to weld the frame rails together and then remove the bolts.Checking the bearing temperature is a GREAT idea and finally gives me the excuse of buying that laser thermal gun I've always wanted but didn't have a real use for.
Appreciate this video and the comments tons. I have an old 4x8 homemade utility trailer that we’ve used for about 35 years. I’ve rebuilt it twice, welded on when it broke, hauled more wood than you can imagine. It’s called the Zaba Trailer. Polish for frog. It’s time for something simple and new, this looks like it. Thank you
I have an original Harbor freight trailer from 1987. That had the 8 inch wheels on it. And I still have it, have beautiful sides on it. Sides are made out of angle iron and exterior plywood very nice, and sturdy.
Good review. I'll add mine. * Bearing Buddies extremely smart! * Great idea for the light housing! * Tip: For your pocket stake and bolts, on the back side put tee-nuts into the bolt holes. That way when you cinch down the eye bolt it sucks it down very tight to the stake pocket. * FYI: The trailer paint DOES FADE over time. * When I built mine, I threw away all the included bolts and nuts then replaced them with Imperial (American) high grade hardware * One thing that I would suggest that I've seen done is to extend the tongue with a section of box tubing. I'm going to do that this spring I think. Would significantly help when backing the trailer. !!! Major Tip!!!! When putting on the lug nuts for the wheels, MAKE SURE THAT THE CONE SHAPE GOES INTO THE WHEEL! If you do not, the lugs will make their way loose and then the tire will wobble which will catch into the fender. Your tire WILL BLOW and it can be expensive! I'm speaking from personal experience. My 1720# easily hauled my Jayco Pop-Up PU Camper. Overall, they are good trailers when they're modified a bit. Good review
Have had mine for 8 years. Put the plywood floor in and added siding. Works great. Only problem is the vertical 2x4s holding the siding are very shaky because there's no support, just two bolts on the bottom. I screwed eye bolts onto them and ran rope around the sides to keep the walls stable.
I just put one of these together. My cardinal rule is *never* use Harbor Freight fasteners - but the ones that came with mine are at least rated category 8. Fingers crossed. Nice vid thanks for posting it.
I just refurbished an 05, corners of crossmembers were rotten and had to get some new ones. A big key to having good luck with this trailer is to make sure you use mechanical lock-in nuts or grip nuts instead of the one-use low carbon elastic lock nuts and also be sure to use grade 8 USS flat washers on both sides of your connections. Be careful of made in China trailer tires , they will crack and leak in a years time. Otherwise it’s a good little unit .
I just picked up one of these for free I’m going to welding everything and put bigger leaf spring and hubs, but cool vid. Oh yeah turn the ball around on your hitch it will give you a inch or two height. Everyone can use an inch or two.
Put the tag on the fender, and add a tag light on the fender on top of the tag where it will light up the tag, is what another of people is doing around in Virginia is doing, to keep the tag from bending up or ripping off .
Good way to blow the seals on the hubs when you use the bearing buddies. BTW most of those Harbor freight trailers already have zero fittings on the back side. The wheel has to be rotated when adding grease through the fitting.
I replaced the OEM fittings with plugs. One broke off the first time I used it. So, I was not convinced that it would hold up. Trailer is still holding up fine, and I have not put any new grease in since the video.
You quoted the temperature of the car getting to 220. I wanted to ask, how often should someone stop and take breaks to curb that? Like, in theory you could maybe drive 4 hours only, or ... whatever? Maybe driving all day 10 hours it gets to 220? So maybe someone could break the drive down to 3 hours, 4 hours or 2 hours, then rest. Then go again, rinse repeat? But I don't know what the ideal interval is for that? But for sure prolonged engine heat without allowing it to cool down would be hard on the life of the car. So this is why I hoped for feedback on this. Thanks.
The manual says to not exceed 45mph… what is the actual limiting factor? What are the tires speed rating? Can the hubs not handle 60+mph? 45mph is kinda useless if true
Mine looks identical, but I think it was rated for 2k pounds? I need 2 new tires, mine have sidewall cracks just from sun and age. I use protectant and try to keep them in the shade or covered with trash bags to keep the sun off.
I really enjoyed your video! I'm thinking about getting the HF 1720# trailer , but I need to tow it from Cincinnati to Dallas and back. I'm concerned about the 45 MPH suggested max speed limit in the manual. Have you tried towing it faster? Any issues with sway? I am hoping to go 75 mph, or faster, if the law allows. I think you can go 85+ mph through parts of Oklahoma. What do you think it can do safely?
This is exactly the information I was looking for. What's the longest distance travelled with it on the highway? I'm thinking of using one behind my Grand Caravan to go from FL to New Mexico, then put it in storage while I roam around for a while. How often did you need to replace the tires?
That chip board is about the worst crap you could use for a trailer deck. It will sweel up as soon as it gets any kind of moisture near it. Even if you paint it, it will fall apart. Use some real green pressure treated plywood id you want something that lasts.
I put it together a few years ago and hauled it across the country. It’s getting beat up, so I inspect it every time I use it. I’m surprised it still hauls.
Well let me say this I'm a successful contractor all my trailers and most my tools come from harbor freight they my heroes save me a small fortune get a life.
No store has these in stock. If i did get one i would apply rust oleum red oil based paint lightly sand factory paint and brush on oil based rustolem paint..👍👍
just curious about the 45mph max speed from the manual, when does that apply (empty trailer or that's just max recommendation when pulling)? but everyone on youtube were going 70mph at some point.
You’ll have to follow that 45mph speed if that’s what’s stated in the manual. I can’t recommend anything else. My tires are rated up to 87mph, but other factors may lower the speed for liability reasons.
Any concerns about the tires? They're only rated for 55 mph. I'm thinking about getting one of these little trailers, but I don't really want to dump another $250 into it for wheels and tires that are rated for 75+ mph. But it wouldn't do me any good if I couldn't take it on the highway.
The tires have held up great so far. I am always checking them, always concerned with them. But, no issues. I keep them inflated to the max, because they are not radials and have thin walls. Also, I believe there were a few years that the tires were not reliable, but HF has a better supplier now. They feel balanced, so no shaking on the highway.
On road trips, I learned, i don't want to burdened with ANY trailer. PIA that's best avoided if possible. For me it is. I came really close to dumping the last one off a mountain, 1,000 miles from home.🤣
Hello Off Grid Adventures! I'm considering buying this trailer for my own little adventure that my girlfriend and I want to try. We're in KC and want to travel to Idaho with my Triumph motorcycle so I can ride the back roads and she can do some hiking. The idea is to buy a DrawTie hitch for her Honda CR-V and load my bike on the Haul Master. The bike is only 476 lbs so it won't overload the weight, but I'm not sure about the speed capacity. The Harbor Freight manual states to keep it at 45mph, which would just not work for the interstate trip. What was the max speed that you kept the trailer at? Any considerations you can call out for higher than 45mph speed with the trailer? Thanks!
@@AdventureGearTV Understood, thanks for the feedback! As an update, I continued doing some research and asked around a bit more for specifications, considerations, and context on the speed ratings. I checked with some folks from etrailer and from the tire manufacturer Carlisle, as well as checking the ratings of the tires sold in the Harbor Freight store against the trailer specific owner's manual. The indication seems to be that the 45mph speed listed in the manual is a safety speed that the trailer should not sway at. The sway seems to be a concern over 45-55mph with this 1720lb capacity trailer as it is very light and would not have the tongue capacity on its own to prevent sway at higher speeds. However, if the trailer is properly weighted and properly loaded (loads 60% ahead of axle), then the trailer should not sway. Beyond swaying, the trailer bearings, the stock grease, and the stock tires should handle high speed travel. The 5.30-12 Carlisle Sport Trail LH (6H01381) is load/speed rated 82N which (in the Harbor Freight manual) translates to 1047lb load rating and an 87mph speed rating when properly inflated (80psi) /loaded (carlstar dot com/our-products/product-detail/sport-trail-lh/ # tech_tab). That said, 87mph is probably pushing it and even the etrailer folks suggest keeping it around 67mph. For anyone looking to go beyond the 45mph stated limit in the manual, they should focus on getting the tongue weight and trailer loading relationship with the tow vehicle just right to avoid a catastrophic failure. But of course, since this info deals with some potentially dangerous or even fatal concepts, don't listen to me, find out your own answers from the pros.
@@AdventureGearTV Understood, thanks for the feedback! As an update, I continued doing some research and asked around a bit more for specifications, considerations, and context on the speed ratings. I checked with some folks from etrailer and from the tire manufacturer Carlisle, as well as checking the ratings of the tires sold in the Harbor Freight store against the trailer specific owner's manual. The indication seems to be that the 45mph speed listed in the manual is a safety speed that the trailer should not sway at. The sway seems to be a concern over 45-55mph with this 1720lb capacity trailer as it is very light and would not have the tongue capacity on its own to prevent sway at higher speeds. However, if the trailer is properly weighted and properly loaded (loads 60% ahead of axle), then the trailer should not sway. Beyond swaying, the trailer bearings, the stock grease, and the stock tires should handle high speed travel. The 5.30-12 Carlisle Sport Trail LH (6H01381) is load/speed rated 82N which (in the Harbor Freight manual) translates to 1047lb load rating and an 87mph speed rating when properly inflated (80psi) /loaded (carlstar dot com/our-products/product-detail/sport-trail-lh/ # tech_tab). That said, 87mph is probably pushing it and even the etrailer folks suggest keeping it around 67mph. For anyone looking to go beyond the 45mph stated limit in the manual, they should focus on getting the tongue weight and trailer loading relationship with the tow vehicle just right to avoid a catastrophic failure. But of course, since this info deals with some potentially dangerous or even fatal concepts, don't listen to me, find out your own answers from the pros.
@@arisafghanzada I agree with everything you said, and did similar research. I don’t have any sway issues with almost 14k miles on the trailer with original tires. At full load the tongue weight is around 200lbs and manageable.
I just subscribed because you said not to. Awesome video. And good detail. I'm won't go into what I'm planning. But your video was great. I'm sorry I subscribed. I won't do it again.
@@silentvoiceinthedark5665 It’s been a few thousand miles. The trailer has about 15k miles. Same tires, and same bearings. I still check with the thermometer, and the thing pulls fine. I’m surprised how well it held up. I posted an update video about it this summer.
I was surprised when I got it that the hardware store didn’t have any solid plywood and had to get this to complete the build. I’ll eventually swap it out, but it’s never been rained on and hasn’t started to crumble yet.
When you get actual plywood, paint it with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner spray paint, especially the edges. It'll keep water out and help it last a LOT longer. I wouldn't recommend doing that to the OSB because paint (of any kind) might hide the damage as it deteriorates.
I’m surprised, but the top of the deck is still in good shape. I’ve never let it get wet, and don’t want to let it get wet. I need to check underneath though, because I have driven on rainy days, so the the bottom could be about to cave.
Growing up in the Jungle we would carry everything on our backs. That minivan is squatted like it’s about to take a crap and the crap is fittingly that HF trailer. C’mon man!
Ha! That trailer is still holding up. Here’s the update going over all of the problems I’ve had with it. ruclips.net/video/3Un3kTIMiCg/видео.htmlsi=iAltIQrpS_jOCjTD
Concerned about taking the trailer on the highway to transport 2 kayaks and coolers. Probably only 300-400 pounds. Any issue with highway speed travel? The trailer is rated for max 45MPH.
Is your trailer new? I can’t speak for your trailer, but mine has no problems at any normal speed. I just posted an update last month. ruclips.net/video/3Un3kTIMiCg/видео.html
Hi, the quad in the video would fit. The trailer has a loading feature and the sides come off like a Red Ryder Wagon. Many people make these trailers into toy haulers.
Definitely possible. The A arm swings to fold, so it’s possible the the folding caused it to loosen. I think the trailer should come with carriage bolts for this connection.
In most States the USA... If you're a trailer and load weigh more than 1500 pounds.... You are going to need trailer breaks... Along with breakaway switches.. And a Trailer battery For the break battery
I towed a car on a dolly across country and used electric brakes for that, but before making this video removed the 7-pin and brake controller. It’s not too difficult to put back in if needed.
@@AdventureGearTV the limit for brakes in the US is 3000 lbs. That's why all single axle utility trailers by other manufacturers have a GVWR of 2990lbs, even though the axle rating is 3500 lbs.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I will be buying one and welding all the major joints and connections... peace of mind, priceless.
That’s a wise move. Be sure to square everything up. The trailer can easily be skewed, but you won’t notice it until its all together.
Watched a couple of your vids. U do a good job. Had the same 1720lb capacity HF trailer....bought in 2009 for $340. I put deck boards on bottom utilizing existing frame holes. It was a great little trailer...it hauled a couple pianos, soil, rocks, trash, furniture you name it. It was killed 2 years ago by a hurricane...a large branch fell from about 40 feet and bent it in half. I'd say I got my $340 worth, but pretty sure it would've lasted another 10 years. Great trailer.
Thank you. That’s a wild ending for your trailer. I feel like I’ve got my money out of it after the first big trip vs. the cost of renting a uhaul trailer.
So do you guys think these little HF trailers really can stand up to the full 1700 lb capacity? Thanks.
I bought the 1195# folding version almost 20 years ago. It's no joke to say I've hauled more stuff with that trailer than most people (on the east coast) have EVER hauled in the beds if their pickups. Best $200 I've ever spent.
They’re a great deal. I’m about to load it up again this weekend for another trip.
Thanks for your unbiased review of this trailer. I'm designing a tear drop trailer and plan on using this Harbor Freight trailer as the base. Bolts won't be an issue for me as it won't be folder, so I am going to weld the frame rails together and then remove the bolts.Checking the bearing temperature is a GREAT idea and finally gives me the excuse of buying that laser thermal gun I've always wanted but didn't have a real use for.
I think it is a fine frame to start with. The bearings are still holding up fine.
Did you find any good tutorial videos or plans that include everything to build a teardrop?
Holy shit, thank you! finally found a video of someone actually using the damn thing!
It’s still hauling good. I have a big trip coming up with it soon.
Appreciate this video and the comments tons. I have an old 4x8 homemade utility trailer that we’ve used for about 35 years. I’ve rebuilt it twice, welded on when it broke, hauled more wood than you can imagine. It’s called the Zaba Trailer. Polish for frog.
It’s time for something simple and new, this looks like it. Thank you
Right on. 35 years is definitely a payback in your initial purchase. Good luck with the next one!
I have an original Harbor freight trailer from 1987. That had the 8 inch wheels on it. And I still have it, have beautiful sides on it. Sides are made out of angle iron and exterior plywood very nice, and sturdy.
Good review. I'll add mine.
* Bearing Buddies extremely smart!
* Great idea for the light housing!
* Tip: For your pocket stake and bolts, on the back side put tee-nuts into the bolt holes. That way when you cinch down the eye bolt it sucks it down very tight to the stake pocket.
* FYI: The trailer paint DOES FADE over time.
* When I built mine, I threw away all the included bolts and nuts then replaced them with Imperial (American) high grade hardware
* One thing that I would suggest that I've seen done is to extend the tongue with a section of box tubing. I'm going to do that this spring I think. Would significantly help when backing the trailer.
!!! Major Tip!!!! When putting on the lug nuts for the wheels, MAKE SURE THAT THE CONE SHAPE GOES INTO THE WHEEL! If you do not, the lugs will make their way loose and then the tire will wobble which will catch into the fender. Your tire WILL BLOW and it can be expensive! I'm speaking from personal experience.
My 1720# easily hauled my Jayco Pop-Up PU Camper. Overall, they are good trailers when they're modified a bit.
Good review
All great tips! I'm about to dust off the trailer for a cross country trip, and I'll make sure to check everything before I go.
Good idea on extending the tongue.
Have had mine for 8 years. Put the plywood floor in and added siding. Works great. Only problem is the vertical 2x4s holding the siding are very shaky because there's no support, just two bolts on the bottom. I screwed eye bolts onto them and ran rope around the sides to keep the walls stable.
I just put one of these together. My cardinal rule is *never* use Harbor Freight fasteners - but the ones that came with mine are at least rated category 8. Fingers crossed. Nice vid thanks for posting it.
I like the stringers on the outside of the posts for a true id 4x8, I'm doing it
I just refurbished an 05, corners of crossmembers were rotten and had to get some new ones. A big key to having good luck with this trailer is to make sure you use mechanical lock-in nuts or grip nuts instead of the one-use low carbon elastic lock nuts and also be sure to use grade 8 USS flat washers on both sides of your connections. Be careful of made in China trailer tires , they will crack and leak in a years time. Otherwise it’s a good little unit .
I’m very glad you take care of your equipment well and always travel prepared.
Hey, I appreciate it. I’ve been on the side of the road enough that I try to be ready.
I just picked up one of these for free I’m going to welding everything and put bigger leaf spring and hubs, but cool vid. Oh yeah turn the ball around on your hitch it will give you a inch or two height. Everyone can use an inch or two.
Yep. great idea about the ball.
Put the tag on the fender, and add a tag light on the fender on top of the tag where it will light up the tag, is what another of people is doing around in Virginia is doing, to keep the tag from bending up or ripping off .
Good way to blow the seals on the hubs when you use the bearing buddies. BTW most of those Harbor freight trailers already have zero fittings on the back side. The wheel has to be rotated when adding grease through the fitting.
Edit: ZERK fittings.
I replaced the OEM fittings with plugs. One broke off the first time I used it. So, I was not convinced that it would hold up. Trailer is still holding up fine, and I have not put any new grease in since the video.
Your trailer is grounding through the trailer ball using the Sienna Chassis ground. It's best to reconnect that ground
Sold! Thanks for the testimonial and tips! Iron sharpens iron and makes U.S. all the better and stronger, and, in this case, safer as well.
I really appreciate these videos.
Thank you. I made this one just for fun.
You quoted the temperature of the car getting to 220. I wanted to ask, how often should someone stop and take breaks to curb that? Like, in theory you could maybe drive 4 hours only, or ... whatever? Maybe driving all day 10 hours it gets to 220? So maybe someone could break the drive down to 3 hours, 4 hours or 2 hours, then rest. Then go again, rinse repeat? But I don't know what the ideal interval is for that?
But for sure prolonged engine heat without allowing it to cool down would be hard on the life of the car. So this is why I hoped for feedback on this. Thanks.
The manual says to not exceed 45mph… what is the actual limiting factor? What are the tires speed rating? Can the hubs not handle 60+mph?
45mph is kinda useless if true
Mine looks identical, but I think it was rated for 2k pounds? I need 2 new tires, mine have sidewall cracks just from sun and age. I use protectant and try to keep them in the shade or covered with trash bags to keep the sun off.
Nice. So, after reading a lot of comments, it seems like the gross weight rating is 2,000 lbs.
Just towed mine 2500 miles and can tell the tires are going fast
I really enjoyed your video! I'm thinking about getting the HF 1720# trailer , but I need to tow it from Cincinnati to Dallas and back. I'm concerned about the 45 MPH suggested max speed limit in the manual. Have you tried towing it faster? Any issues with sway? I am hoping to go 75 mph, or faster, if the law allows. I think you can go 85+ mph through parts of Oklahoma. What do you think it can do safely?
Thanks for sharing. If you are ever passing through Iowa on a long trip, let me know. We can meet up and do a video together. God bless you.
I might pass through this summer on a road trip from MO to WA.
@@AdventureGearTV let's meet up for lunch
This is exactly the information I was looking for. What's the longest distance travelled with it on the highway? I'm thinking of using one behind my Grand Caravan to go from FL to New Mexico, then put it in storage while I roam around for a while. How often did you need to replace the tires?
I still use it now, I have not replaced the tires, but I recently bought a spare. It's a great trailer.
Great video, anyone know what carriage bolt he is using ?
That chip board is about the worst crap you could use for a trailer deck. It will sweel up as soon as it gets any kind of moisture near it. Even if you paint it, it will fall apart. Use some real green pressure treated plywood id you want something that lasts.
Nice video. Be wondering how it holds up over good and bad roads. Did you have to put it together?
I put it together a few years ago and hauled it across the country. It’s getting beat up, so I inspect it every time I use it. I’m surprised it still hauls.
I built a teardrop with my harbor freight trailer, I have 2200 lbs total weight,I went with bigger leaf springs
I’ve seen some nice teardrop conversions with this trailer. Sounds like a fun project.
Well let me say this I'm a successful contractor all my trailers and most my tools come from harbor freight they my heroes save me a small fortune get a life.
the one with 4.80-12 tires are speed rated at 45 MPH. they are terrible to back up as well.
where did you get the air bags for your vans suspension ? I need those for my subaru legacy..
No store has these in stock. If i did get one i would apply rust oleum red oil based paint lightly sand factory paint and brush on oil based rustolem paint..👍👍
just curious about the 45mph max speed from the manual, when does that apply (empty trailer or that's just max recommendation when pulling)? but everyone on youtube were going 70mph at some point.
You’ll have to follow that 45mph speed if that’s what’s stated in the manual. I can’t recommend anything else. My tires are rated up to 87mph, but other factors may lower the speed for liability reasons.
@@AdventureGearTV are you using the tires that came with the trailer?
@@mtnguyen1696 yes, and you can find out more about them here: www.carlstar.com/our-products/product-detail/sport-trail-lh/
What is the height of the receiver hitch from the ground when the trailer is level?
It depends some on the trailers Suspension and load. Around 12”-15”. I’m loading up the trailer this weekend and will measure.
Any concerns about the tires? They're only rated for 55 mph. I'm thinking about getting one of these little trailers, but I don't really want to dump another $250 into it for wheels and tires that are rated for 75+ mph. But it wouldn't do me any good if I couldn't take it on the highway.
The tires have held up great so far. I am always checking them, always concerned with them. But, no issues. I keep them inflated to the max, because they are not radials and have thin walls. Also, I believe there were a few years that the tires were not reliable, but HF has a better supplier now. They feel balanced, so no shaking on the highway.
How fast have you gone down the highway?
On road trips, I learned, i don't want to burdened with ANY trailer. PIA that's best avoided if possible. For me it is. I came really close to dumping the last one off a mountain, 1,000 miles from home.🤣
Great review, thanks !
Hello Off Grid Adventures! I'm considering buying this trailer for my own little adventure that my girlfriend and I want to try. We're in KC and want to travel to Idaho with my Triumph motorcycle so I can ride the back roads and she can do some hiking. The idea is to buy a DrawTie hitch for her Honda CR-V and load my bike on the Haul Master. The bike is only 476 lbs so it won't overload the weight, but I'm not sure about the speed capacity. The Harbor Freight manual states to keep it at 45mph, which would just not work for the interstate trip. What was the max speed that you kept the trailer at? Any considerations you can call out for higher than 45mph speed with the trailer? Thanks!
I recommend that you follow the manufacturer’s guidance. There are liability issues with doing anything else.
@@AdventureGearTV Understood, thanks for the feedback! As an update, I continued doing some research and asked around a bit more for specifications, considerations, and context on the speed ratings. I checked with some folks from etrailer and from the tire manufacturer Carlisle, as well as checking the ratings of the tires sold in the Harbor Freight store against the trailer specific owner's manual. The indication seems to be that the 45mph speed listed in the manual is a safety speed that the trailer should not sway at. The sway seems to be a concern over 45-55mph with this 1720lb capacity trailer as it is very light and would not have the tongue capacity on its own to prevent sway at higher speeds. However, if the trailer is properly weighted and properly loaded (loads 60% ahead of axle), then the trailer should not sway. Beyond swaying, the trailer bearings, the stock grease, and the stock tires should handle high speed travel. The 5.30-12 Carlisle Sport Trail LH (6H01381) is load/speed rated 82N which (in the Harbor Freight manual) translates to 1047lb load rating and an 87mph speed rating when properly inflated (80psi) /loaded (carlstar dot com/our-products/product-detail/sport-trail-lh/ # tech_tab). That said, 87mph is probably pushing it and even the etrailer folks suggest keeping it around 67mph. For anyone looking to go beyond the 45mph stated limit in the manual, they should focus on getting the tongue weight and trailer loading relationship with the tow vehicle just right to avoid a catastrophic failure. But of course, since this info deals with some potentially dangerous or even fatal concepts, don't listen to me, find out your own answers from the pros.
@@AdventureGearTV Understood, thanks for the feedback! As an update, I continued doing some research and asked around a bit more for specifications, considerations, and context on the speed ratings. I checked with some folks from etrailer and from the tire manufacturer Carlisle, as well as checking the ratings of the tires sold in the Harbor Freight store against the trailer specific owner's manual. The indication seems to be that the 45mph speed listed in the manual is a safety speed that the trailer should not sway at. The sway seems to be a concern over 45-55mph with this 1720lb capacity trailer as it is very light and would not have the tongue capacity on its own to prevent sway at higher speeds. However, if the trailer is properly weighted and properly loaded (loads 60% ahead of axle), then the trailer should not sway. Beyond swaying, the trailer bearings, the stock grease, and the stock tires should handle high speed travel. The 5.30-12 Carlisle Sport Trail LH (6H01381) is load/speed rated 82N which (in the Harbor Freight manual) translates to 1047lb load rating and an 87mph speed rating when properly inflated (80psi) /loaded (carlstar dot com/our-products/product-detail/sport-trail-lh/ # tech_tab). That said, 87mph is probably pushing it and even the etrailer folks suggest keeping it around 67mph. For anyone looking to go beyond the 45mph stated limit in the manual, they should focus on getting the tongue weight and trailer loading relationship with the tow vehicle just right to avoid a catastrophic failure. But of course, since this info deals with some potentially dangerous or even fatal concepts, don't listen to me, find out your own answers from the pros.
@@arisafghanzada I agree with everything you said, and did similar research. I don’t have any sway issues with almost 14k miles on the trailer with original tires. At full load the tongue weight is around 200lbs and manageable.
Overpacking wheel bearings increases the operating temperature
I believe it. Theoretically, these bearing buddies can’t be over packed. The excess pushes out of the front.
I’m going to buy one of these. I think I’ll upgrade to grade 8 bolts.
Great idea, this one has held up fine since then.
I just subscribed because you said not to. Awesome video. And good detail. I'm won't go into what I'm planning. But your video was great. I'm sorry I subscribed. I won't do it again.
Right on! This was a fun video to make.
How often do you have to grease the bearings?
Not very often.
@@AdventureGearTV Well that is a good answer. I was afraid you were going to say every 600 miles.
@@silentvoiceinthedark5665 It’s been a few thousand miles. The trailer has about 15k miles. Same tires, and same bearings. I still check with the thermometer, and the thing pulls fine. I’m surprised how well it held up. I posted an update video about it this summer.
Just FYI, that's OSB, not plywood
I was surprised when I got it that the hardware store didn’t have any solid plywood and had to get this to complete the build. I’ll eventually swap it out, but it’s never been rained on and hasn’t started to crumble yet.
When you get actual plywood, paint it with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner spray paint, especially the edges. It'll keep water out and help it last a LOT longer. I wouldn't recommend doing that to the OSB because paint (of any kind) might hide the damage as it deteriorates.
I’m surprised, but the top of the deck is still in good shape. I’ve never let it get wet, and don’t want to let it get wet. I need to check underneath though, because I have driven on rainy days, so the the bottom could be about to cave.
That’s not plywood; it’s OSB. 😁
Do you by any chance remember the size of the boxes that the hitch came in?
The Curt hitch?
I don’t remember exactly, but it is a big box that weights about 50lbs. Something like 24” x 12” x 48” plus or minus a few inches.
Growing up in the Jungle we would carry everything on our backs. That minivan is squatted like it’s about to take a crap and the crap is fittingly that HF trailer. C’mon man!
Ha! That trailer is still holding up. Here’s the update going over all of the problems I’ve had with it. ruclips.net/video/3Un3kTIMiCg/видео.htmlsi=iAltIQrpS_jOCjTD
Where did you get the light housing?
I got them through Amazon. There’s a link in the video description.
Do you have to constantly grease the wheel bearings?
No, but it’s so easy to do that I pump it up every few thousand miles. Still pulls smooth.
Overtightening bolt could explain the failure. Just food for thought 🤔
Hardware stores don't sell wood. Home Depot Stores and other home stores do.
if you car suspension bottoms out when your car is loaded, you trailer has too much tongue weight.
I also have gear in the van.
Concerned about taking the trailer on the highway to transport 2 kayaks and coolers. Probably only 300-400 pounds. Any issue with highway speed travel? The trailer is rated for max 45MPH.
Is your trailer new? I can’t speak for your trailer, but mine has no problems at any normal speed. I just posted an update last month.
ruclips.net/video/3Un3kTIMiCg/видео.html
Get grade 8 bolts from home depot
Great idea.
You need to learn the difference between what a sheet of plywood is and a sheet of particle board.
Do you think that trailer would hold your quad?
Hi, the quad in the video would fit. The trailer has a loading feature and the sides come off like a Red Ryder Wagon. Many people make these trailers into toy haulers.
OSB SUCKS FOR A TRAILER FLOOR. 3/4 PLYWOOD #1
Ya I don't get all these peeps using OSB for applications like that.
Kool ❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Right on!
that definitely is a hurting on fuel economy
Grade 8 bolts.
I’m about to take a big trip with it. I’ll check all the bolts before I step of.
Just please, for the love of God...vote Red in November!!!🙏
Weird tarp job bro.
No the bolt didn't break.
You didn't tighten them up. Period!
Definitely possible. The A arm swings to fold, so it’s possible the the folding caused it to loosen. I think the trailer should come with carriage bolts for this connection.
@@AdventureGearTV And nylon lock nuts
In most States the USA... If you're a trailer and load weigh more than 1500 pounds.... You are going to need trailer breaks... Along with breakaway switches.. And a Trailer battery For the break battery
I towed a car on a dolly across country and used electric brakes for that, but before making this video removed the 7-pin and brake controller. It’s not too difficult to put back in if needed.
@@AdventureGearTV the limit for brakes in the US is 3000 lbs. That's why all single axle utility trailers by other manufacturers have a GVWR of 2990lbs, even though the axle rating is 3500 lbs.
Alot of useless side info, in this video. Would have been great if you just stuck to what your title suggested.
Never use Chinese bolts in anything. Theyre pure junk.