FTI "How-To" Modify a Powerglide Pump
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- In this weeks installment of "How-To" Videos by FTI Performance Greg Samuel goes over the finer points of modifying a Powerglide Pump for use in a racing application.
For any questions or comments please call FTI Performance at 866-726-8358 or visit www.FTIPerformance.com 
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heaps of good information there- pretty good at showing customers what they are paying for!
thanks much for the video and instruction. gr8 video. please more on transmissions. gr8 commentary. god bless
I made a neat jig to enlarge these pumps on the lathe.. most of the machining on these does NOT require a CNC machine.. It can all be done on a lathe.. Except when I install Gerotor gears.. Also running much thicker gears as well.
Lots of good information, thanks for posting!
Excellent video!!
Very informative!
The bearings crack. I build them back up with thrust washers just like original. Gotta account for the material these guys take off though or end play will be off. Other than that mostly good mods. Great material shared in this video
My son bought a trans from TCI Years ago and I've got it down for a rebuild and everything looks good except for the hole in the stator tube at 11 oclock. It's not completely blocked but's 90 percent blocked. I cant get a wd 40 tube through it. The converter on our car was always loose and showed high percent of slip. Is this the cause?
My son bought a trans from TCI Years ago and I've got it down for a rebuild and everything looks good except for the hole in the stator tube at 11 o'clock. It's not completely blocked but it's 90 percent blocked. I'm failing to see how it's effecting charge pressure too because our pump stator has the bushing that blocks fluid out of the converter anyway. Fluid is forced around the bushing through the input shaft holes that are located each side of the bushing. This seems to me to be the restriction. The best I can tell, this 11 o clock hole positions that he is talking about is not the high hole in the stator but the lower hole and it routes converter fluid to cooler out port and the upper hole in the stator is from cooler in port which turns into lubrication via input/output shaft. It's looks like the sealing rings on the input shaft simply keep oil from going back to the converter out or just running oil out into the trans pan. The sealing rings force oil to the input/output shaft for lubrication. Is this right? Anyone. That's the way it appears to me but I can't find any infor on this trans other than Monroe and it doesn't go into depth on those circuits.
nice video thanks
does the modifications to the pump provide better shifting or better pressure on the valve body and valves controling the shifts or braking capabilities of the transmission
Is OK to do these modifications to the case/pump if I am not running a trans brake for regular driving and then installing a brake down the road for the strip?
I will be running a Turbo on a 5.3 truck engine.
Thanks!
B
Would you block the cooler bypass if running a dump valve? Seems like that would be the safety if blocked. And seems like you would want all the pressure then regulate it down?
What is the proper procedure to adjust the bands?
Tighten to 40 in Lbs while rotating the shaft slowly... to keep the drum centered... ...then back off 4 turns...then tighten the outer lock nut...
Fix the sound please. Looks like a good video..
Were are you located?
Makes no sense at all to drill the feed hole into the stator tube without the stator being installed first.. If you don't care about how much of the hole does not line up, then there's absolutely ZERO reason to drill that hole at all. If you're going to enlarge that hole, then install the stator support tube first, and then drill thru that so they are perfect..