Thank you for the video. I learnt new things from it and also by reading the comments. My tip was slightly bent. I just straightened it up and it worked.
I used your video to find out how a stove works, clean the thermocouples and get two burners that hadn't been working for months going again! Thank you!
Thank you! Great video. In my case the unit was pulled little bit up, was not fixed in place. After the position adjustment worked fine. Your video helped me to find couse of problem 🙏
Thanks, very good instructional video, not only did it save me time, it also showed how I don't need to know everything in advance, just approach things with an open mind and things will become clear as I progress. One remark: check the thermocouple connection before you spend money on a new one. Took mine out of the socket, tightened it a bit, (careful not to break it), and then re-inserted it with a little twist to break any possible corrosion spots... good as new :) That's true for any electrical/electronic device, sometimes a tiny spot of corrosion on the terminals can prevent a perfectly good device from working.
This was a great video and I learnt a lot. They key thing to note though... You don't have to undo and take the actual cooker hob out. You can leave it where it is, and by undoing the screws the top cover comes off, saves you having to call a gas engineer and you don't have to fiddle with the gas connections. Disconnect power and gas before removing top cover though :-) To resolve my problem, the big, main burner at the front wasn't working, so I swapped the thermocouple with the one at the back and they both started working! Weird, but happy they're both operating now. Also, another tip, before placing and screwing back in the top cover, replace the gas hob bits and test to see if it's working. If all ok, replace top cover.
I'm not so sure, min hangs on the lip of the top part, that we have to remove to access the insides. The unit is clamped from below, so removing the top brown part would mean that the hob wasn't resting on anything, I guess you could do it your way if you slackened the clamps below and propped it.
@bootsowen I've got the Lamona (Lam1005), it's clamped from underneath to the worktop with brackets and had the same L shape bracket that you took off first. I didn't have to touch any of the bottom side of the hob. My recommendation would be to attempt removing the top cover first and if you're unsuccessful, follow your procedure.
Also, I didn't remove the oven from underneath either, so perhaps that was acting as support. I get what you're saying, perhaps, to be on the safe, you could remove the oven and put something underneath the hob to hold it up..
This was really useful, however I would recommend that you can leave the gas hob installed, therefore much less risk and no need for a gas engineer. Just unscrew the 8 screws you mentioned to get access to the thermocouples. Actually also just to add, I used a small brass brush to clean around the thermocouple and the gas burner stays alight. It been broken for 6 months, but your video inspired me to take the plunge and try and fix it. Many thank
Yes, I learned that lesson from the comments after the fact, makes it much easier. Luckily I haven't had to go back to this one, it has worked fine for us since I made this video. I have never had success with the wire brush cleaning.
From your video comments, i have a old Mayer unit (glass top type) managed to bent out the thermocouple tip a little without breaking. Scrap the sides of the tip and give a light scrub with a copper brush. It may not stay aflame the 1st time, but it does after 2 tries. Hope this helps others to save $100-$200 worth of repairs.
Thanks for the video. Moved into a house with a Bosch stovetop 18 years old. All burners are behaving like the faulty one in your video, if I hold them on for a long time and release the knob very slowly I can force them to stay lit. After lighting they work great at min or max, but lighting is definitely not normal. If all burners are doing the same thing, does that mean it could be the unit the thermocouples feed into that's faulty rather than the thermocouples themselves? Or could all the thermocouples have gone bad?
I have had it before where the wrong size jets were installed. If it was lpg and is now on town has this could be a problem. Or the wrong jets in the wrong places. You can also adjust the flame height. I have posted other videos on this on my channel. Thanks
No need to replace the thermocouples, turns out all it needs is a good cleaning with some steel wool. However, if it wasn't for your video I wouldn't have known it was the thermocouples that were faulty. :) :) :) (I tried cleaning them out of desperation after I discovered there are no spares for sale in South Africa).
I think that the thermocouples for these are pretty universal, should be able to get one from a broken machine, as long as it wasn't the thermocouple that was broken!
I think it depends on the machine, I think you can get the top plate off by removing the screws on each of the burner pots and pulling the knobs off. if you did it this way then you could get in without removing the gas and the unit from the worktop. But maybe you can tell, I am a novice, and hindsight is 20-20!
Excellent video - thank you so much - I now know the problem is with the thermocouple and I also know I should not even attempt to fix it (I know my limitations) so I've just texted my plumber who is also a licensed gas fitter and asked him to fix the problem. If I was remotely confident with disconnecting gas connections, I would have fixed the problem myself but I'm a tad chicken hearted. 😂😂
Thanks for a good video .. Missus bought a new oven and it was not even 1 day old and it looks like the same problem has occurred with one burner . We live rural and the city she bought it in is a 3 hour drive away . I'll have a go at fixing it myself as to get a repair man out would cost an arm , leg and a testicle ...
Hi Bootsowen, great video and very enjoyable to watch. Please help I have an Indesit Standing Gas Cooker bought in 2016 model is 15GGGWUK. The oven heats up for a few minutes and then switches off. Please what is the likely cause the oven thermocouple or the oven thermostat? Please what are the characteristics of these components failing? Many thanks Michael.
No idea on that one I'm afraid. If it wouldn't stay lit I'd say it was the thermocouple. But there must be something in the regulator that is not working, I don't really know, you might have guessed, I'm not a gas engineer and what you are asking me is beyond my knowledge. Let me know how you get on.
The thermocouple is positioned in the flame and can sense when the flame is present. If the flame is not present the thermocouple will not be hot and the supply of gas will stop.
I am pretty sure that CORGI is a long time gone. I understand that they have Gas Safe registered engineers in England now and that any gas installation must be done by them. For the avoidance of doubt, this video was made elsewhere!
Good fix. You are really good at this stuff. There is always one screw that won't move. I think they have a guy in the factory whose job is to tighten just one screw so that you can't move it. LOL
Thanks. It used to throw me when a screw was stuck because it could wreck the whole unit. Whatever it was. But there is no other way to fix things sometimes.
I own a stove which is the main stove of our house but without any thermocouples. Recently somebody left the gas running accidentally. So can an expert modify it by fitting some thermocouples in it? I don't want to spend more on a new stove that have the thermocouples built right into them. (Sorry English is not my first language.)
Great vid, problem solved the thermalcouples through millions of RUclips vids. This one was the best, but down here in Perth Aus we have no one to do the maintenance side of things, nor people or systems i that work! I’ve had three lots of thermalcouples delivered for all four burners and only two out of 12 have been correct stairs to install! I would like to ask someone if they’ve had the same problem after installing new thermalcouples whether the problem on the flame staying on persists? This is the case with mine, I tap the big silver gas line connected the burner and it randomly stays lit? I turn knob off then reignite and it stays lit! But then second or third time trying to lit the same burner it will not work with a new couple? Bizarre. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks again Bootsowen
Nice video! Did you really have to disconnect the gas and take the whole hob plate out of the countertop? Looks like the top plate would just lift out after disconnecting all 4 hobs. That would save a lot of work and it saves you from fiddling with the gas lines.
Maybe not. I am not a gas tech so I go into these things without a clue. It is sometimes easier to see how something goes together when you watch a video. But if you start off not having done that you have to run on wits alone! I reckon if i did that here however, the base would have been unsupported and possibly just hanging on the gas pipe. But it was a while ago since I made this video, and I'm not bothered to watch it again to find out if I am right. And then just to wrap up my response, it is just one nut to remove the gas, and this means that you have full access to the unit. Thanks for the comment. Did you get your unit fixed?
@@bootsowen I was just pointing it out because I disassembled my hob and did the same thing! I realised afterwards that I could have just taken the top off. Anyway, I managed to repair mine by simply pushing the thermocouple closer to the flame. It somehow moved down, thus not getting hot enough to trigger. A quick and free fix!
Good thank you. But I do wonder about these cookers when being used without power, i.e. for the sparking unit. For instance in a power outage where you can still cook on the gas but need to light a match to get them going. Because I have a burner out but all the ones that work normally, still work when the unit is not plugged into an electrical outlet, and the one that does not work still does not work regardless of being plugged in. That means that the valve that the thermocouple connects to does not require external power input to operate the gas hob. Which is interesting. So it's either a bad thermocouple or a bad valve, both possibly self-serviceable. Also, in regard to thermocouples, they are made up of a double stranded wire each strand being made up of a dissimilar metal that are spot welded together at the heat sensing end (That thermocouple wire is manufactured in long lengths and cut to the desired lengths you see in your stove). A plug is mounted at the other end. You get a bigger charge created within the wire, based on temperature exerted on the welded tip. So when they fail it is generally a bad connection at the plug (easy enough to test and repair), or corrosion at the spot welded tip, which is more likely, and could probably be re welded with a car battery or other small power supply arcing over with the right timing upon the end point which you would first cut back a tiny bit. So in effect, the whole length of wire within your thermocouple could be made up into many shorter thermocouples provided you could weld the tip correctly. DIY types take note.
Couldn't you have just cleaned the tip with some abrasive paper etc rather than replace the whole item? what was actually wrong with the old one that needed replacing?
Hello there. Thanks for this post. I had a go at this (having first got a gas engineer to do the work - in case any angry types are wondering). I switched out the part with a new one. However I still have the same problem in that it takes ages for it to stay ignited of its own accord. The hob has been cleaned to within an inch of its life so it's nothing to do with blocked nozzles. Any ideas appreciated. Many thanks. Paul.
I have had it on another hob that i didn't install, there are different jets for LPG (propane/butane) and natural or "town" gas. I have seen the wrong sizes in the wrong places, usually it is obvious, a new hob is supplied with a set of jets installed and another set for LPG or vice versa. usually the biggest size (number) jet for the biggest ring, or whatever the installation manual says. So I was saying, I have seen the wrong size jet in the wrong hole and it did take ages to catch. sometimes the sizes are printed above, and sometimes printed on the side of the jet. If above you may be able to see straight away, otherwise you have to take the jets out. I have posted another vid about "installing a bottle gas hob" a search on my channel should find it and I might have showed this bit there. There is the chance that you are using lpg jets on natural gas, in which case they will almost certainly be too small. I am obviously not a gas engineer so don't believe anything I tell you! Let me know how you get on, or post a vid and link it here!
@@bootsowen Thanks for that. I had a look at the jets and it isn't that - they are the right size. The only other clue is that when it is shut off it does take longer to "clunk" than the other 5 on the hob. Does that get us any closer to an alternative fix? As ever any help appreciated.
Are they the right size in the right place, big to big and small to small? There was some other part mentioned in this thread, the bit that the thermocouples go into perhaps, you will have to look through the comments. I would take them with a pinch of salt, there are a lot of self assured gas specialists on here!!
Great job buddy, thanks, weird what you learn in lockdown. Not sure how important it is but perhaps when drilling the screw out shove some old cloth into where the gas comes out just to prevent metal fragments from the drilling going in
Hi. Can u send the product number for ur thermocouple? I need to order the same one. Once I turn on the knob, it clicks and fire stays on but when I release it cuts off. Probably a bad thermocouple like ur video. But I could not find one like urs
Hi man, No disrespect! However, I was called out to friends house, he had watched this video, felt confident and then carried out diy gas work. They ended up with a gas leak in their home. Also, it turned out that the hob should never have been installed in the first place, because of ventilation issues. Anyway, the family are now safe. Maybe if you post a video like this, you should explain how to take a proper tightness test, gas rate and how to check that ventilation requirements are met. Thanks for reply, N
Another thing, the guy who originally installed the 5 burner hob in their home, had teed off the open flued boiler pipe! So, the hob was seriously under gassed. Lucky for them nothing had happened before! Anyway, good vids, just not too sure about this one, because not everyone is competent to work on gas. Thanks, N
I agree with you, I presume you are in the UK, so I think there you would have to be a competent person on a competent person scheme. In Ireland the rules on who does it aren't as strictly enforced. You will probably have noticed if you scroll up or down in the description section of the video that I advise that gas is dangerous, etc. On describing how to do a proper tightness test, I would rather not: my video does not purport to be complete, all of my videos are just me pottering at jobs. I posted a video about replacing the brakes on my van a few years ago. Would you say that you need to be competent to do this? Just wondering, you see, the way I see it, there are way more deaths caused by road incidents than gas explosions or asphyxiation. But I would suspect that most cars are repaired by garages. I'm not having a go at you but I struggle with the idea that I'm not allowed to butter my own toast in case my head explodes... Appreciate the comments. People do read them so they will be useful for them..
Fair point, I wasn’t trying to be negative in anyway. Just, I didn’t understand why you would explain how to do a job, but stop short and not go the full hog. Also, some people watch things on youtube and then think to themselves that they can do it, even although they have probably never picked up a spanner before. I’m sure the reason that we don’t have much gas incidents in the U.K. is because gas is strictly enforced. I wasn’t aware that anybody in Ireland that feels confident can work on gas, surely there must be serious consequences for them, if something bad happens through their incompetence? Anyway, as I said before, great useful videos! I like your tip on fixing the screw, Keep up the good work. Thanks, Nathan.
The sheared screw is what brought me here... Looking for ideas. Authorized Neff "engineer" sheared it, then threw the broken head in the well next to the nozzle without telling me. I just found out by chance.
What I usually do is try to get the old screw out, drill a little hole in the centre of the old and then enlarge it until you can pick the thread out, BUt sometimes this is difficult with steel screws in aluminium. You can always just drill a hole nearby in a place that you can screw from to make the connection, and use a self tapper to hold it. It should never really have a load on it if you are using the pot rack. Maybe one screw is enough?
OMG ARE YOU MAD?… YOU SHOUKD NOT BE DISCONNECTING THE GAS SUPPLY there is no need to remove the hob as the top plate comes off and allows you to access the internal.
How did you feel when you realised that you didn't have to remove the whole unit from the worktop? Just release the screws around the burners. That way you don't have to (illegally) disconnect gas supply. You took the 4 knobs off the cooker but the biggest knob was on the the thick end of the screwdriver. I'm not against DIY just that you posted it as guidance when you don't have any real clue about gas safety.
Gas always brings out the safety police. Do you feel better now? Insulting and correcting the internet one video at a time. I’m not sure that it is illegal in my country. I guess you’re in England. Thanks for the comments. All engagement is good on RUclips.
It’s the wonder of the internet that just anyone can spout their wisdom about any subject under the sun, so you can always be sure of getting the most accurate and up to date information.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for helping.. just gave the thermocouple a clean and cooker is working fine again now!
Glad it helped
Hi. I have this same problem. Can you share what you use to clean and how you cleaned it?
Thanks a lot man. 5 min scraping the grode off the thermocouple for the first time in 17 years and we're back in business. Lesson learned.
Thank you for the video. I learnt new things from it and also by reading the comments.
My tip was slightly bent. I just straightened it up and it worked.
I used your video to find out how a stove works, clean the thermocouples and get two burners that hadn't been working for months going again! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Thank you! Great video.
In my case the unit was pulled little bit up, was not fixed in place. After the position adjustment worked fine. Your video helped me to find couse of problem 🙏
Thanks, very good instructional video, not only did it save me time, it also showed how I don't need to know everything in advance, just approach things with an open mind and things will become clear as I progress.
One remark: check the thermocouple connection before you spend money on a new one.
Took mine out of the socket, tightened it a bit, (careful not to break it), and then re-inserted it with a little twist to break any possible corrosion spots... good as new :)
That's true for any electrical/electronic device, sometimes a tiny spot of corrosion on the terminals can prevent a perfectly good device from working.
Thanks for that. It is a good point. I didn't know it.
This was a great video and I learnt a lot. They key thing to note though... You don't have to undo and take the actual cooker hob out. You can leave it where it is, and by undoing the screws the top cover comes off, saves you having to call a gas engineer and you don't have to fiddle with the gas connections. Disconnect power and gas before removing top cover though :-)
To resolve my problem, the big, main burner at the front wasn't working, so I swapped the thermocouple with the one at the back and they both started working! Weird, but happy they're both operating now.
Also, another tip, before placing and screwing back in the top cover, replace the gas hob bits and test to see if it's working. If all ok, replace top cover.
I'm not so sure, min hangs on the lip of the top part, that we have to remove to access the insides. The unit is clamped from below, so removing the top brown part would mean that the hob wasn't resting on anything, I guess you could do it your way if you slackened the clamps below and propped it.
@bootsowen I've got the Lamona (Lam1005), it's clamped from underneath to the worktop with brackets and had the same L shape bracket that you took off first. I didn't have to touch any of the bottom side of the hob. My recommendation would be to attempt removing the top cover first and if you're unsuccessful, follow your procedure.
Also, I didn't remove the oven from underneath either, so perhaps that was acting as support. I get what you're saying, perhaps, to be on the safe, you could remove the oven and put something underneath the hob to hold it up..
This was really useful, however I would recommend that you can leave the gas hob installed, therefore much less risk and no need for a gas engineer. Just unscrew the 8 screws you mentioned to get access to the thermocouples. Actually also just to add, I used a small brass brush to clean around the thermocouple and the gas burner stays alight. It been broken for 6 months, but your video inspired me to take the plunge and try and fix it. Many thank
Yes, I learned that lesson from the comments after the fact, makes it much easier. Luckily I haven't had to go back to this one, it has worked fine for us since I made this video. I have never had success with the wire brush cleaning.
From your video comments, i have a old Mayer unit (glass top type) managed to bent out the thermocouple tip a little without breaking. Scrap the sides of the tip and give a light scrub with a copper brush. It may not stay aflame the 1st time, but it does after 2 tries. Hope this helps others to save $100-$200 worth of repairs.
A new thermocouple costs under £10. Good work cleaning it but it is not a big job to replace it
Hi - thanks for that - helped me rectify 4 years of not having two of my 4 rings not working!
Thanks for the video. Moved into a house with a Bosch stovetop 18 years old. All burners are behaving like the faulty one in your video, if I hold them on for a long time and release the knob very slowly I can force them to stay lit. After lighting they work great at min or max, but lighting is definitely not normal.
If all burners are doing the same thing, does that mean it could be the unit the thermocouples feed into that's faulty rather than the thermocouples themselves? Or could all the thermocouples have gone bad?
I have had it before where the wrong size jets were installed. If it was lpg and is now on town has this could be a problem. Or the wrong jets in the wrong places. You can also adjust the flame height. I have posted other videos on this on my channel. Thanks
Thanks
Excellent, you're welcome!
Well done mate it is very useful for me great.
Hi mate can you tell me if thermo couple is faulty is it AR or ID ?
I have no idea what that means!!
Iam a new gas engineer id means immediately dangerous and ar means at risk this is how you put category .
No need to replace the thermocouples, turns out all it needs is a good cleaning with some steel wool. However, if it wasn't for your video I wouldn't have known it was the thermocouples that were faulty. :) :) :)
(I tried cleaning them out of desperation after I discovered there are no spares for sale in South Africa).
I think that the thermocouples for these are pretty universal, should be able to get one from a broken machine, as long as it wasn't the thermocouple that was broken!
Exactly our problem, but I’d better get an engineer to fix it. Thanks very much for the video.
Cool, Let me know how much they charge, it is useful for people to see.
Lovely video thank you.. any idea if you needed to remove the gas or not? Would the top come off regardless?
I think it depends on the machine, I think you can get the top plate off by removing the screws on each of the burner pots and pulling the knobs off. if you did it this way then you could get in without removing the gas and the unit from the worktop. But maybe you can tell, I am a novice, and hindsight is 20-20!
Me too hence the question
Well done!
How can i add thermo couple to a five burner cooker thay does n't have thermo couple from factory?
Is it safe and echomomical?
why?
@@bootsowen for safety.
I reckon that it might bebetter to get a new machine than to mess with an old one. but people in different countries do things differently.
Excellent video - thank you so much - I now know the problem is with the thermocouple and I also know I should not even attempt to fix it (I know my limitations) so I've just texted my plumber who is also a licensed gas fitter and asked him to fix the problem. If I was remotely confident with disconnecting gas connections, I would have fixed the problem myself but I'm a tad chicken hearted. 😂😂
Depends on the model. If you remove the knobs and the screws holding the burner cups the top plate might come off.
Question. If the automatic flame out device doesn't work. Would it work with the device removed? I got one and I only use mine outside
no idea, let me know when you try it to find out
@bootsowen update. I unplugged it, it works
Question: one of my gas burners lights up and runs for approx 60 seconds and then spontaneously cuts out. Miele brand
Any ideas?
Gas supply, or gas pressure, does it happen on all 4 burners? I am no expert, so I am just guessing.
Thanks for a good video .. Missus bought a new oven and it was not even 1 day old and it looks like the same problem has occurred with one burner . We live rural and the city she bought it in is a 3 hour drive away . I'll have a go at fixing it myself as to get a repair man out would cost an arm , leg and a testicle ...
How did it go?
@@bootsowen Yes it is a faulty thermocouple . I just ordered a new one...
Hi Bootsowen, great video and very enjoyable to watch. Please help I have an Indesit Standing Gas Cooker bought in 2016 model is 15GGGWUK. The oven heats up for a few minutes and then switches off. Please what is the likely cause the oven thermocouple or the oven thermostat? Please what are the characteristics of these components failing? Many thanks Michael.
No idea on that one I'm afraid. If it wouldn't stay lit I'd say it was the thermocouple. But there must be something in the regulator that is not working, I don't really know, you might have guessed, I'm not a gas engineer and what you are asking me is beyond my knowledge. Let me know how you get on.
@@bootsowen Many thanks for you kind reply. I will keep looking. What does a faulty thermocouple do?
The thermocouple is positioned in the flame and can sense when the flame is present. If the flame is not present the thermocouple will not be hot and the supply of gas will stop.
Nice one, thanks. Also useful for the screw fix that you did. Great
Thanks
How is the current from the thermocouple sufficient to retain the solenoid valve in the on position?
I don't know.
Don’t you have to be corgi registered to perform this? (England specifically)
I am pretty sure that CORGI is a long time gone. I understand that they have Gas Safe registered engineers in England now and that any gas installation must be done by them. For the avoidance of doubt, this video was made elsewhere!
Good fix. You are really good at this stuff.
There is always one screw that won't move. I think they have a guy in the factory whose job is to tighten just one screw so that you can't move it. LOL
Thanks. It used to throw me when a screw was stuck because it could wreck the whole unit. Whatever it was. But there is no other way to fix things sometimes.
I have a stove without the thermocouples. I want to save money and drill some holes and install thermocouples. Could this be done?
How would adding thermocouples save money?. They are a flame monitor for safety!
I own a stove which is the main stove of our house but without any thermocouples. Recently somebody left the gas running accidentally. So can an expert modify it by fitting some thermocouples in it? I don't want to spend more on a new stove that have the thermocouples built right into them. (Sorry English is not my first language.)
Hi have u changed all for or just one and it will do the job for all four? Thanks
Maybe you should watch the video fully
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Me too;)
@@veganath the
Great vid, problem solved the thermalcouples through millions of RUclips vids. This one was the best, but down here in Perth Aus we have no one to do the maintenance side of things, nor people or systems i that work! I’ve had three lots of thermalcouples delivered for all four burners and only two out of 12 have been correct stairs to install! I would like to ask someone if they’ve had the same problem after installing new thermalcouples whether the problem on the flame staying on persists? This is the case with mine, I tap the big silver gas line connected the burner and it randomly stays lit? I turn knob off then reignite and it stays lit! But then second or third time trying to lit the same burner it will not work with a new couple? Bizarre. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks again Bootsowen
I didn’t have any issues like that, so I’m not much use to you. If the flame is staying lit with the knob turned off you have a bit of a problem.
Nice video! Did you really have to disconnect the gas and take the whole hob plate out of the countertop? Looks like the top plate would just lift out after disconnecting all 4 hobs. That would save a lot of work and it saves you from fiddling with the gas lines.
Maybe not. I am not a gas tech so I go into these things without a clue. It is sometimes easier to see how something goes together when you watch a video. But if you start off not having done that you have to run on wits alone! I reckon if i did that here however, the base would have been unsupported and possibly just hanging on the gas pipe. But it was a while ago since I made this video, and I'm not bothered to watch it again to find out if I am right. And then just to wrap up my response, it is just one nut to remove the gas, and this means that you have full access to the unit. Thanks for the comment. Did you get your unit fixed?
@@bootsowen I was just pointing it out because I disassembled my hob and did the same thing! I realised afterwards that I could have just taken the top off. Anyway, I managed to repair mine by simply pushing the thermocouple closer to the flame. It somehow moved down, thus not getting hot enough to trigger. A quick and free fix!
@@bootsowen You shouldnt break the gas fitting unless you are a registered gas safe technician. It is a criminal offence to do so!
Perhaps you are right, what country are you referring to the law of?
@@bootsowen probably Australia
Fantastic fella, many thanks saved me time and a tonne of cash. I owe you a pint.
Mines a Guinness.
@@bootsowen when there is so many other delightful stouts and porters out there? oh ok where do i post it to?
It's nice to know some people still honor the "pint as currency" system :)
Can you just unscrew the top without removing the whole unit? From the looks of it that looks like a quicker fix?
Maybe, I guess it depends on the model.
Good thank you. But I do wonder about these cookers when being used without power, i.e. for the sparking unit. For instance in a power outage where you can still cook on the gas but need to light a match to get them going.
Because I have a burner out but all the ones that work normally, still work when the unit is not plugged into an electrical outlet, and the one that does not work still does not work regardless of being plugged in. That means that the valve that the thermocouple connects to does not require external power input to operate the gas hob. Which is interesting.
So it's either a bad thermocouple or a bad valve, both possibly self-serviceable.
Also, in regard to thermocouples, they are made up of a double stranded wire each strand being made up of a dissimilar metal that are spot welded together at the heat sensing end (That thermocouple wire is manufactured in long lengths and cut to the desired lengths you see in your stove). A plug is mounted at the other end. You get a bigger charge created within the wire, based on temperature exerted on the welded tip. So when they fail it is generally a bad connection at the plug (easy enough to test and repair), or corrosion at the spot welded tip, which is more likely, and could probably be re welded with a car battery or other small power supply arcing over with the right timing upon the end point which you would first cut back a tiny bit. So in effect, the whole length of wire within your thermocouple could be made up into many shorter thermocouples provided you could weld the tip correctly. DIY types take note.
How is the current from the thermocouple sufficient to retain the solenoid valve in the on position?
Couldn't you have just cleaned the tip with some abrasive paper etc rather than replace the whole item? what was actually wrong with the old one that needed replacing?
I don’t know. Have you had success with that method?
thank you much. found the problem!!!
Loving it man...keep going
Brilliant video!!
Hello there. Thanks for this post. I had a go at this (having first got a gas engineer to do the work - in case any angry types are wondering). I switched out the part with a new one. However I still have the same problem in that it takes ages for it to stay ignited of its own accord. The hob has been cleaned to within an inch of its life so it's nothing to do with blocked nozzles. Any ideas appreciated. Many thanks. Paul.
I have had it on another hob that i didn't install, there are different jets for LPG (propane/butane) and natural or "town" gas. I have seen the wrong sizes in the wrong places, usually it is obvious, a new hob is supplied with a set of jets installed and another set for LPG or vice versa. usually the biggest size (number) jet for the biggest ring, or whatever the installation manual says. So I was saying, I have seen the wrong size jet in the wrong hole and it did take ages to catch. sometimes the sizes are printed above, and sometimes printed on the side of the jet. If above you may be able to see straight away, otherwise you have to take the jets out. I have posted another vid about "installing a bottle gas hob" a search on my channel should find it and I might have showed this bit there. There is the chance that you are using lpg jets on natural gas, in which case they will almost certainly be too small. I am obviously not a gas engineer so don't believe anything I tell you! Let me know how you get on, or post a vid and link it here!
@@bootsowen Thanks for that. I had a look at the jets and it isn't that - they are the right size. The only other clue is that when it is shut off it does take longer to "clunk" than the other 5 on the hob. Does that get us any closer to an alternative fix? As ever any help appreciated.
Are they the right size in the right place, big to big and small to small? There was some other part mentioned in this thread, the bit that the thermocouples go into perhaps, you will have to look through the comments. I would take them with a pinch of salt, there are a lot of self assured gas specialists on here!!
I need this job however I don't want this by myself. Who/ what kind of person should I ask for fix?
A gas appliance repair person, but it may be cheaper to buy a new stove, depending on where you are!
Brilliant video bru.
Just the information I needed, nice job!👍
Thanks very much for making this. Gonna try the same myself.
Excellent, thanks dude.
Great job buddy, thanks, weird what you learn in lockdown. Not sure how important it is but perhaps when drilling the screw out shove some old cloth into where the gas comes out just to prevent metal fragments from the drilling going in
I have the same problem except my cooker is a glass top. It’s so heavy I think it’s glued to my kitchen counter
Hi. Can u send the product number for ur thermocouple? I need to order the same one. Once I turn on the knob, it clicks and fire stays on but when I release it cuts off. Probably a bad thermocouple like ur video. But I could not find one like urs
They are sold as universal kits in gas supply places.
Is it universal? Im using brandt
I don't understand your question
@@bootsowen the thermocouple.
Ignition works but knobs won't hold. I have to put something on top of the knob to hold the light. Hope you can help me. Thanks
Yes. Watch the video before commenting.
I think this is my issue. Cheers
Thanks a lot. Great help.
Perfect 👌
I'M HAVING THIS TROUBLE, BUT MY HOB IS BRAND NEW, CONFUSED???
Maybe bring it back?
What about a gas tightness test! Also times for FSD devices.
did you miss those bits?
Hi man, No disrespect! However, I was called out to friends house, he had watched this video, felt confident and then carried out diy gas work. They ended up with a gas leak in their home. Also, it turned out that the hob should never have been installed in the first place, because of ventilation issues. Anyway, the family are now safe. Maybe if you post a video like this, you should explain how to take a proper tightness test, gas rate and how to check that ventilation requirements are met. Thanks for reply, N
Another thing, the guy who originally installed the 5 burner hob in their home, had teed off the open flued boiler pipe! So, the hob was seriously under gassed. Lucky for them nothing had happened before! Anyway, good vids, just not too sure about this one, because not everyone is competent to work on gas. Thanks, N
I agree with you, I presume you are in the UK, so I think there you would have to be a competent person on a competent person scheme. In Ireland the rules on who does it aren't as strictly enforced. You will probably have noticed if you scroll up or down in the description section of the video that I advise that gas is dangerous, etc. On describing how to do a proper tightness test, I would rather not: my video does not purport to be complete, all of my videos are just me pottering at jobs.
I posted a video about replacing the brakes on my van a few years ago. Would you say that you need to be competent to do this? Just wondering, you see, the way I see it, there are way more deaths caused by road incidents than gas explosions or asphyxiation. But I would suspect that most cars are repaired by garages. I'm not having a go at you but I struggle with the idea that I'm not allowed to butter my own toast in case my head explodes... Appreciate the comments. People do read them so they will be useful for them..
Fair point, I wasn’t trying to be negative in anyway. Just, I didn’t understand why you would explain how to do a job, but stop short and not go the full hog. Also, some people watch things on youtube and then think to themselves that they can do it, even although they have probably never picked up a spanner before. I’m sure the reason that we don’t have much gas incidents in the U.K. is because gas is strictly enforced. I wasn’t aware that anybody in Ireland that feels confident can work on gas, surely there must be serious consequences for them, if something bad happens through their incompetence? Anyway, as I said before, great useful videos! I like your tip on fixing the screw, Keep up the good work. Thanks, Nathan.
The sheared screw is what brought me here... Looking for ideas. Authorized Neff "engineer" sheared it, then threw the broken head in the well next to the nozzle without telling me. I just found out by chance.
What I usually do is try to get the old screw out, drill a little hole in the centre of the old and then enlarge it until you can pick the thread out, BUt sometimes this is difficult with steel screws in aluminium. You can always just drill a hole nearby in a place that you can screw from to make the connection, and use a self tapper to hold it. It should never really have a load on it if you are using the pot rack. Maybe one screw is enough?
my burner lights but when I release the knob it goes off.....i wonder what the problem is
I wonder if you watched this video. I wonder if you even read the title.
Excellent!
Nice one, prob fixed 😁 thank you!!
Did you do it yourself?
@@bootsowen yep!
OMG ARE YOU MAD?… YOU SHOUKD NOT BE DISCONNECTING THE GAS SUPPLY there is no need to remove the hob as the top plate comes off and allows you to access the internal.
You shoukd watch my other videos. You’ll call out to all the gods!
Always spray WD40 on all your stove top screws before attempting to undo them.
And when tapping a new thread, and when drilling out an old thread haha
How did you feel when you realised that you didn't have to remove the whole unit from the worktop? Just release the screws around the burners. That way you don't have to (illegally) disconnect gas supply. You took the 4 knobs off the cooker but the biggest knob was on the the thick end of the screwdriver. I'm not against DIY just that you posted it as guidance when you don't have any real clue about gas safety.
Gas always brings out the safety police. Do you feel better now? Insulting and correcting the internet one video at a time. I’m not sure that it is illegal in my country. I guess you’re in England. Thanks for the comments. All engagement is good on RUclips.
It’s the wonder of the internet that just anyone can spout their wisdom about any subject under the sun, so you can always be sure of getting the most accurate and up to date information.
@@bootsowen which magical and lawless land do you live in anyway?
ty, was just wondering why not just take out the top cover without having to take the whole damn thing out :D
Shouldn't be working on any gas appliance unless you are gas safe registered
That's a UK rule I'd say, not in Ireland buddy.
What do you call that? Is that a senaing valve? Plss.. It urgent.. Haha
There is a clue in the title of the video
👍
Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you.