that is one super clean cable job there dude well done! i remember the first time i shortened an ESC wire, i was proper bricking it! well worth it when done though, there's nothing like a clean build for the soul :)
Yes I like the cleanliness of the wiring. But I have a question. How will you be changing your weight biases when needed? Obviously having to remove and reattach the electronics is a solution. But I'd think it would be very hasslesome. Or not if you don't plan to change weights. Nice build mate
Wish you'd done this video 2 weeks earlier...I tried to shorten servo wires for first time, and despite practice, messed it up. Was glitching out and caused me a few quali runs :-(
I tried to make a main comment, but YT isn't posting it...weird. Laying down the receiver looks smart, right up until you need to replace something, and then it becomes a chore. And you have to remove and re-stick the receiver to do anything. It's virtually impossible to remove and reinsert the connectors at that angle, especially with the shortened wires, without taking the receiver out. So take some serviceability into consideration when placing things. I used to think that things like direct soldering fans to the battery terminals on the ESC was super clean looking, and it is...until I had a fan fail, and didn't have time to solder in a new one between my other heats. Then proceeded to blow up my motor with no cooling the next round. So it's much better to look a little messy, and save yourself the cost of a new motor. Which, BTW, you will want to run a fan on the B7, as everyone is reporting some higher motor temps. Check out Matthew Gonzalez, a.k.a. "MattyG", a.k.a. Team Glitch on FB, he has been doing a lot of motor tuning and testing on the B7. Another wiring tip would be to put the transponder vertically on the back side of the servo. Makes it look a lot cleaner, and keeps clutter off the top of the servo mount. If you need some wiring inspiration/ideas, check out Jackie Thayer/WrenchSessions on Insta/FB. He has just started getting out his B7 builds. Everything he builds is a work of RC art. He's a top notch mechanic, and a hell of a wheel man too.
I was thinking about what a pain in the arse it’d be to sort out if anything goes 💩faced but, I was remaining optimistic/positive 😂 Great recommendations, cheers.
Nice job, I've screwed up alot of Servo wires myself. Plus being 60 I've got to do everything under a magnifying glass now. Saving my pennies for a new 7 myself. Hey, you got a part # on that shorty Savox? Keep making these great videos.
The neater my wiring, the worse my car goes! I cut my wire too short last week soldering into my 2wd buggy. Thankfully, I can put that speedo in another car as I've 2 of the same.
@@SeanyRC bang! I hardwird a fuse on a Tekin 410s years ago. Plumes of smoke eventually down the Stafford straight (Stychfields) when it eventually blew.
The double sided tape most car kits come with is "3M VHB Tape" and I find it works much better than the stuff you're using (I also own some of that). Be careful buying it from places like Amazon though, a lot of it's fake. For future reference, you dont need to lift up the plastic tabs on those connectors to get the pins out (and doing so can damage the connector preventing you from reusing it) - but instead you can just push down on the metal tab that is hooking onto the plastic.
Got a RSX1 KO servo which is full size. Looking at their LP options now as it just takes up so much space. Better soldering than I, I sadly can't solder for shit :(
I’d for sure recommend a Hobbywing for the ease of use! You can look at the pro options or equally the stock / cheaper models which are perfectly fine!
I hate doing receiver plug ends, I’ve seen so many issues with loose connections etc Personally I would rather re-solder the circuit board end of the lead.
Going from the PCB end is not always an option, as many manufacturers put silastic all over the terminal leads on the PCB in order to prevent breakage of the solder joint from vibration. Recrimping new JST leads is still the most direct way to do this.
A word of advice, ignore the cut lines on the bodyshell. The front lines will have you cut a much too large an area, allowing crap in behind the front wheels and the rear will expose the spur gear unnecessarily.
that is one super clean cable job there dude well done! i remember the first time i shortened an ESC wire, i was proper bricking it! well worth it when done though, there's nothing like a clean build for the soul :)
Haha im glad we felt the same pain and thank you! next one we do , we will try to better it!
LOVE your fine craftsmanship & obsessive traits - brilliant; top job❗
Haha , cheers!
Yes I like the cleanliness of the wiring. But I have a question. How will you be changing your weight biases when needed? Obviously having to remove and reattach the electronics is a solution. But I'd think it would be very hasslesome. Or not if you don't plan to change weights. Nice build mate
Yeah that’s a good point! Although it’s not something I change often… maybe when I need to I’ll rethink! Haha thanks for watching 🙏
Thanks for the video. It would be cool to see in detail how exactly to use the Hobby King tool.
Thank you! noted.. :)
Wish you'd done this video 2 weeks earlier...I tried to shorten servo wires for first time, and despite practice, messed it up. Was glitching out and caused me a few quali runs :-(
Ahh thats a shame! practice makes perfect buddy!
Looks clean 👍 mounting the receiver laying down looks smart, it shows all the sanwa info rather than the channel connections.
Thank you , I think I will make a couple of changes on the next one , receiver will stay that way though for sure.
I tried to make a main comment, but YT isn't posting it...weird.
Laying down the receiver looks smart, right up until you need to replace something, and then it becomes a chore. And you have to remove and re-stick the receiver to do anything. It's virtually impossible to remove and reinsert the connectors at that angle, especially with the shortened wires, without taking the receiver out. So take some serviceability into consideration when placing things.
I used to think that things like direct soldering fans to the battery terminals on the ESC was super clean looking, and it is...until I had a fan fail, and didn't have time to solder in a new one between my other heats. Then proceeded to blow up my motor with no cooling the next round. So it's much better to look a little messy, and save yourself the cost of a new motor. Which, BTW, you will want to run a fan on the B7, as everyone is reporting some higher motor temps. Check out Matthew Gonzalez, a.k.a. "MattyG", a.k.a. Team Glitch on FB, he has been doing a lot of motor tuning and testing on the B7.
Another wiring tip would be to put the transponder vertically on the back side of the servo. Makes it look a lot cleaner, and keeps clutter off the top of the servo mount.
If you need some wiring inspiration/ideas, check out Jackie Thayer/WrenchSessions on Insta/FB. He has just started getting out his B7 builds. Everything he builds is a work of RC art. He's a top notch mechanic, and a hell of a wheel man too.
I was thinking about what a pain in the arse it’d be to sort out if anything goes 💩faced but, I was remaining optimistic/positive 😂
Great recommendations, cheers.
Hi, can you share your setup? Esc motor servo battery charger. Thank you!
Looks like a sanwa receiver. Xr10 pro g2s elite esc
Nice job, I've screwed up alot of Servo wires myself. Plus being 60 I've got to do everything under a magnifying glass now. Saving my pennies for a new 7 myself. Hey, you got a part # on that shorty Savox? Keep making these great videos.
Thank you so much! I’ll grab a part number , super happy you enjoy the videos :)
@@SeanyRC no need. Found it @ Amain. Your videos are really inspiring. 👍
The neater my wiring, the worse my car goes! I cut my wire too short last week soldering into my 2wd buggy. Thankfully, I can put that speedo in another car as I've 2 of the same.
Replace the positive battery wire with all red wire, I've made that mistake myself before.
I like living on the edge… haha
@@SeanyRC bang! I hardwird a fuse on a Tekin 410s years ago. Plumes of smoke eventually down the Stafford straight (Stychfields) when it eventually blew.
The double sided tape most car kits come with is "3M VHB Tape" and I find it works much better than the stuff you're using (I also own some of that). Be careful buying it from places like Amazon though, a lot of it's fake.
For future reference, you dont need to lift up the plastic tabs on those connectors to get the pins out (and doing so can damage the connector preventing you from reusing it) - but instead you can just push down on the metal tab that is hooking onto the plastic.
Awesome information, thank you! This is why I love the RUclips community 👍
Can't wait to get mine, these videos are so informative thanks
@@user-ry1jm9hw6w Let me know how it all goes!
I will mate
You are more likely to damage the metal pins by doing that, then you are to damage the plastic housing by lifting it up.
Got a RSX1 KO servo which is full size. Looking at their LP options now as it just takes up so much space. Better soldering than I, I sadly can't solder for shit :(
Got to keep at it man , I do like the KO servos!
One change, one part failure, one upgrade and you will regret this unless the new parts work with the existing modified wires. Looks nice though......
What speed controller do you recommend for a new racer?
I’d for sure recommend a Hobbywing for the ease of use! You can look at the pro options or equally the stock / cheaper models which are perfectly fine!
I hate doing receiver plug ends, I’ve seen so many issues with loose connections etc Personally I would rather re-solder the circuit board end of the lead.
Sounds like a super clean option Mark!
Going from the PCB end is not always an option, as many manufacturers put silastic all over the terminal leads on the PCB in order to prevent breakage of the solder joint from vibration.
Recrimping new JST leads is still the most direct way to do this.
A word of advice, ignore the cut lines on the bodyshell. The front lines will have you cut a much too large an area, allowing crap in behind the front wheels and the rear will expose the spur gear unnecessarily.
Noted thanks!
0:29 dude that aint coffee. coffee is brown
Haha love that , it’s a milky one!!
@@SeanyRC thats like pouring a glass of soda/pop/or whatever you call it and saying this is my glass of water
It would of been easier if you soldered the motor wires last
Probably true.. haha! thanks for watching
Sensor cable should have been put in.
When shells on who cares 😂