This is the best tutorial I've ever seen.. Thank you so much I used this to disassemble and rebuild by cvk40 out of my 01 kawasaki vulcan 1500.. It only has 15,000 but has never been cleaned and boy was it dirty.. Since its 23 years old and a real pain to get out I figured I would just completly rebuild it.. I Put in an easy adjust extended air / fuel screw. And adjusted the float with the help from video #3. It was set at 20 mm and I got it adjusted to exactly 17.5 mm.. Thanks again for this wonderful set of videos. Helped me so much..
@MrTravlinman1973, Hi there! I'm glad you have found it to be of some use and help to you. These Keihins are simple and easy. I first ran into this type of carburetor on my 1979 Honda CX500. They got dirty and I took them apart and was astounded at how much like a toilet they are in the way they work. ;^) I have one of the carbs from a Vulcan; it's a pumper carb. One of these days I'm going to get around to installing it on my KLR. I've been saying that for 10 years... Best regards and Happy Riding, Tom
Incredibly helpful. I wasted 300 bucks for a 'hands on' class in LA and all of the carbs were broken/missing things etc. The only thing I remember the instructor going on about that you only briefly mention is the importance of the seal in the float bowl. Maybe it's not important in KLRs? But he mentioned taking it out, cleaning out the grime and potentially replacing because they often go bad. Anyway - awesome vids.
+Aleksey Stepnoy Glad you found it useful. The seal on the float bowl is pretty rugged and doesn't go bad. I'm not sure if you can even get a replacement. Wanna see something funny? Watch the 'Bloopers' video on the channel and see me yammer away while I tried to get the seal out of the bowl... Tom
We were explained it went bad from long term use and you can't get it back in - mine actually does look like it's bad. One of its corners has some kind of residue on it - hard to the touch. Not sure if it's the cause of my leak or not but yeah.. if fuel dries like that, maybe it's that but it looks more purposeful like someone tried to apply a patch to it mid-trip. edit: we were also told the reason to remove it is so that you can clean the float bowl - but not sure why you think you can't get a replacement, it's just a rubber seal, pretty easy to take out/put back in
+Aleksey Stepnoy It looks like CV Prts has a generic rebuild kit that has a couple of different bowl seals in it. www.cv-performance.com/carburetor-parts/
+souperdoo thanks, I guess the official name is float gasket and they're all over ebay, sadly I'm not in US so I'll have to figure something out in the meantime
Robert, KLRs are like VW Bugs. Once you have one you shouldn't ever sell it. They are just too dang utilitarian and useful. Besides, like a bug, you'll just be buying another one at some point in time. You know you will. Tom
Wow thats a fantastic video, so helpful ,, so easy to understand,,just love RUclips...only have a few points to add if i could,,The float needle has a little tit on the end of it, please tell the people that you must check it,that its not stuck.The tit is spring loaded,to free it up i spray WD40 in it & blast it with compressed air,also tap it wiel holding it in my hand...The other point id like to make is the 2 little holes on the inlet side of the carb,on the bottom side,,,make 100% sure that they there clear as 1 hole goes to the idle & starting jet ..which are the smallest jets..these are the jets that block up.i clean them with a little piece of wire from a wire brush.. just like to help a very good video
I don't know how it could be clearer. The two jets are in no way interchangeable nor confusable and I very clearly state when I'm putting the main jet in vs the pilot jet.
After reviewing the info about reassembling the float I didn't hear anything about adjusting the float if it is not within 17.5mm +/-2. How do you make this adjustment if it is out of specs? Seems a rather delicate procedure with the small parts. Thanks
For reference 1 millimeter is equal to (for all practical purposes) 40 thousands (0.040 in). So 2 millimeters is 80 thousands (0.080 in) or just under a 10th of an inch. This comment is only for people who like to have numbers dancing in their heads.
I hope that Pilot Jet at 1:13 is not supposed to have a hole all the way thru the top of the tube. I cannot get any size small wire thru there. I have the side holes cleared, but do not know it the hole in top of JN where the screwdriver slot lives is supposed to go all the way thru. This is my third time rebuild and previously have had good idle, but the bike dies every time when given any throttle.
Yes, it must have an axial hole all the way through. Fuel has to come up from the bowl, pass through the pilot jet, get some air mixed with it, then enter the carb venturi and go on into the engine. If it can't do that, it can't idle for beans. Have a look-see: flic.kr/p/P7A4xY The hole is very small; the picture above has one strand of wire from a 16 gauge wire sticking through it. The hole is less than .015" in diameter. You should be able to see light through it, though. I suspect that your's is not completely blocked, but it does have a bit of junk in it. If yours is blocked such that you can't clear it with a bit of copper wire after soaking in carb cleaner, then the only solution is to go get a new one. Tom
souperdoo - You dont happen to know the orafice size do you? I have it soaking right now, It would be nice to know the diameter. i'lI need something pretty stiff to open it up.
Well, if it is a 38 pilot jet then it is .38mm in diameter, which is just under .015". The smallest pin gauge I have in the shop is .015" and if feels like it just wants to start, but won't quite go in. Honestly, it might be easiest to get a new one. A bit larger wouldn't hurt, I expect, and a Harly dealer might have a 40 in stock more readily than a Kawasaki dealer would have one. Tom
Hi Gary, The Sportsters used a version of the CVK for a while. Since it is a larger engine it uses a larger pilot jet. If you can find a 40 you should be OK. I have a 42 in my carb, but I have intake, head, and exhaust mods. The worst that can happen is that you wouldn't be able to adjust the idle mixture down enough and you"d be a tad rich at idle and up to about 1/4 throttle. Not the end of the world, and it would get you going again. The pilot jets are so small that, once clogged, it's hard to find something to clean them out with that won't screw them up! Tom
Im having some trouble I hope someone can help with. I disassembled the carb and went to put back in the jet needle and it wont go back in, the new one or the old one. not sure what to do
was that tech day related to the diaphram in Etna California? Cuz I did that exact same thing there. Scared the living heck out of me thinking I ruined my diaphram a long way from home. Here is is 5 years later and it still works great. Just had the carb apart.
+Rich Schaff I didn't remember that it was yours! Yes, it was Etna and it scared me too! I was glad it shrank back for you and good to hear it is still going strong! Gawd, the thing looked like big portobello mushroom...
I've watched this series of videos countless times...Excellent info! I got a 1996 KLX 650C from my uncle a few years ago...he "cleaned the carb" but it didn't run right when I got it. I let it sit the last couple years and finally tore apart the carb and cleaned it really well...found the jet needle (collar) was missing. Now I can't find the part ANYWHERE!!! Ordered from dealer only to find out a week later they were discontinued. Went to Harley dealer and ordered part number 27100-88....waited a week for that part and when i got home with it today, it won't fit! It won't drop into the hole for the main jet and even if it did, it does not appear the smaller end would fit through the bottom anyway. Where can I get this part??? Thanks!
Marcus, For some reason, the Chinese think that we need to have the collar in a rebuild kit so they put one in their kits. I've never considered replacing the damn thing so never had a need for it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Try this one from e-bay: www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Rebuild-Kit-For-1987-2007-Kawasaki-KLR650-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-NEW/282886578563?fits=Model%3AKLR650&hash=item41dd5aa183:g:SZ8AAOSwysRaqztn:sc:USPSFirstClass!90277!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0 I reviewed a similar kit from Sumo here: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/sumo-carb-kit-helpswrestling-with-the-cvk40 and found that it was pretty good quality stuff. Unfortunately, Sumo shows "Out of stock" for the CVK40 kit right now. Dunno if that is permanent or not. Partzilla has the "Jet-Needle, P/N 16017-1254", but they want $27.50 plus shipping. www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16017-1254?ref=c2fa7691e5b72bd4eedea23f745287de423fee6a If the e-bay rebuild kit for $11 is of similar quality to the Sumo stuff I would not hesitate to use the collar. BTW, there are cheaper options on e-bay but those ship from China. They are only two bucks cheaper, though. Hope that helps you out! Tom
Thank you for messaging me on the other board as well. Tom, that is excellent information! I don't think my replies are going through over there so will ask here... The part# for 96 KLX650C is 16017-1367....but for a 96 KLR650 is 16017-1254. What is the difference? Will I need to use the needle from the rebuild kit for KLR to make sure it seats in there correctly? Thank you so much for the info! I was searching for KLX and didn't think to expand my search for KLR's too.
Hi Marcus, Kawasaki part numbers can be weird. Often I can not discern a difference between two parts with different part numbers. For example, I just did some research on what I have here, which is a KLR carburetor and a Vulcan carburetor. The Vulcan carburetor is a CVK40, but it has an accelerator pump. Thereby hangs another tale... The Vulcan carb uses a different part number from the KLR part. The small end measures .195", the large end 205", and the hole is .098". The Vulcan part fits in a KLR carburetor. The difference between the two is that the KLR's collar is longer by about .020" on the part that sticks into the venturi. That is the only difference I can find and I don't know why that difference is there, though I'm sure some Keihin engineer does. Now, I have heard that the Harley part will not fit the KLR carb. I have no direct experience with that because the last time I had a Harley was in 1974 (it was a bad experience) and the Harley carb doesn't fit the KLR. Thus, I have no interest in it. I do use a larger pilot jet in my carb, which came from the Harley dealer because the Harley carbs need a larger pilot jet. I digress. I don't want to be patronizing, as I'm sure you've tried this, but it is the small end that goes into the carb first even though it looks like it should be the other way around. It is beyond me why Keihin would make different outside diameters on the collar; perhaps they don't. I do know that some of the part numbers include a size designator. e.g. the KLR collar is listed as a "JET-NEEDLE, #6". Perhaps the KLX collar has a different dimension on the height of the collar, thus the different part number and perhaps that is the only difference. Knowing that the diameter of the collar is .196", perhaps you could measure the diameter of the hole in the KLX carb. If a #9 drill bit shank fits snugly that would be a good indication that the KLR collar would fit. Would a difference in height make a major difference? I doubt it. Since you can get one for $11 I think I'd go that route and give it a try. It will certainly work better than not having one! Then you can keep an eye out on e-bay, Amazon, etc to see if the Chinese ever produce a rebuild kit for the KLX650/C/R. I'd be interested to know the dimensions of the Harley part, should you be able to take measurements. I'd like to understand why it doesn't fit. Tom
The kit arrived yesterday. I have put it all back together (the collar from the kit fits perfectly on my KLX carb). Putting it back in today. Keeping fingers crossed! Thanks again Tom...I still owe you those measurements and will get them as soon as I can on that Harley collar.
No, there's nothing in the carb that really needs to have thread locker on it. I'd stay away from it and instead focus on just using proper torque. Sometimes even a medium threadlocker can be too much for small fasteners and you run the risk of stripping the head.
@@MichaelMike Turning the needle out makes the idle mixture richer, which improves the engine's running at idle and allows it to transition from idle to off-idle better.
I cleaned the carbs . Now bike revs up high when starting but slowly revs drop down and eventually shut down. Probably running rich. How do I fix it. Fyi I also took out one of the washers from 22 cent mod
@@souperdoo gas is new. Doesnt see to have leaks. I cleaned the carb again and put the original jetting needle. Was using amazon kerby repair kit. My might have petcock drips constantly on reserve and flows whe. Turned on. Is that normal.
@@protectork9831 Glad you got it fixed. Wierd that opening the cap fixed it because they usually don't build up the vacuum that fast. Could've happened over time if you have had the tank closed up for a few days without running any gas through it. Still, whatever fixes it is good!
@@souperdoo thank you for all your help. Hopefully it will stay running long enough for me to sell it. Working on carbs is not my thing , I learned that
This is one of the best, if not the best tutorial I've ever seen. Gives a total beginner the confidence required to take on this task.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.
This is the best tutorial I've ever seen.. Thank you so much I used this to disassemble and rebuild by cvk40 out of my 01 kawasaki vulcan 1500.. It only has 15,000 but has never been cleaned and boy was it dirty.. Since its 23 years old and a real pain to get out I figured I would just completly rebuild it.. I Put in an easy adjust extended air / fuel screw. And adjusted the float with the help from video #3. It was set at 20 mm and I got it adjusted to exactly 17.5 mm.. Thanks again for this wonderful set of videos. Helped me so much..
@MrTravlinman1973,
Hi there! I'm glad you have found it to be of some use and help to you. These Keihins are simple and easy. I first ran into this type of carburetor on my 1979 Honda CX500. They got dirty and I took them apart and was astounded at how much like a toilet they are in the way they work. ;^)
I have one of the carbs from a Vulcan; it's a pumper carb. One of these days I'm going to get around to installing it on my KLR.
I've been saying that for 10 years...
Best regards and Happy Riding,
Tom
What a great step by step video Sir. I'm about to take my carb out to clean it. I will be following this along the way. Thank you very much.
+Ed R. Hi Ed,
You're most welcome and I'm glad you find it useful!
Best of luck with your carb rebuild.
Tom
Great video, the overlooked piece fell out exactly as he said, hahaha! That is what brought me here! THANK YOU!!!
That piece has caused more grief than anyone gives it credit for!
Your video is a KLR saver. We'll ride again thanks to you.
Thanks a BUNCH. This series made it easy.
Hi,
I'm glad to hear that you found the vieos useful!
Stay safe out there,
Tom
Usted es bienvenido. Me alegro de que hayas encontrado útil.
Incredibly helpful. I wasted 300 bucks for a 'hands on' class in LA and all of the carbs were broken/missing things etc. The only thing I remember the instructor going on about that you only briefly mention is the importance of the seal in the float bowl. Maybe it's not important in KLRs? But he mentioned taking it out, cleaning out the grime and potentially replacing because they often go bad. Anyway - awesome vids.
+Aleksey Stepnoy
Glad you found it useful. The seal on the float bowl is pretty rugged and doesn't go bad. I'm not sure if you can even get a replacement.
Wanna see something funny? Watch the 'Bloopers' video on the channel and see me yammer away while I tried to get the seal out of the bowl...
Tom
We were explained it went bad from long term use and you can't get it back in - mine actually does look like it's bad. One of its corners has some kind of residue on it - hard to the touch. Not sure if it's the cause of my leak or not but yeah.. if fuel dries like that, maybe it's that but it looks more purposeful like someone tried to apply a patch to it mid-trip.
edit: we were also told the reason to remove it is so that you can clean the float bowl - but not sure why you think you can't get a replacement, it's just a rubber seal, pretty easy to take out/put back in
+Aleksey Stepnoy It looks like CV Prts has a generic rebuild kit that has a couple of different bowl seals in it.
www.cv-performance.com/carburetor-parts/
+souperdoo thanks, I guess the official name is float gasket and they're all over ebay, sadly I'm not in US so I'll have to figure something out in the meantime
Damn, Thank you Great video series! Makes me wish I wasn't getting my KLR ready to sell
Robert,
KLRs are like VW Bugs. Once you have one you shouldn't ever sell it. They are just too dang utilitarian and useful.
Besides, like a bug, you'll just be buying another one at some point in time.
You know you will.
Tom
Wow thats a fantastic video, so helpful ,, so easy to understand,,just love RUclips...only have a few points to add if i could,,The float needle has a little tit on the end of it, please tell the people that you must check it,that its not stuck.The tit is spring loaded,to free it up i spray WD40 in it & blast it with compressed air,also tap it wiel holding it in my hand...The other point id like to make is the 2 little holes on the inlet side of the carb,on the bottom side,,,make 100% sure that they there clear as 1 hole goes to the idle & starting jet ..which are the smallest jets..these are the jets that block up.i clean them with a little piece of wire from a wire brush..
just like to help a very good video
Brett- You've said it as well as I could! Thanks!
Tom
Best tutorial ever!
Great detail.
Thank you for your help
I have done this three times watching the video....I sure wish you could show the "main jet" and pilot jet more clearly so we properly identify each.
I don't know how it could be clearer. The two jets are in no way interchangeable nor confusable and I very clearly state when I'm putting the main jet in vs the pilot jet.
@@souperdoo Well, I'm old. You are right though. Great videos. Thank you.
well done!
After reviewing the info about reassembling the float I didn't hear anything about adjusting the float if it is not within 17.5mm +/-2. How do you make this adjustment if it is out of specs? Seems a rather delicate procedure with the small parts. Thanks
Joseph - It is delicate to adjust; you bend the metal tab quite carefully. I have never seen one that needed adjusting, though.
Tom
For reference 1 millimeter is equal to (for all practical purposes) 40 thousands (0.040 in). So 2 millimeters is 80 thousands (0.080 in) or just under a 10th of an inch. This comment is only for people who like to have numbers dancing in their heads.
I hope that Pilot Jet at 1:13 is not supposed to have a hole all the way thru the top of the tube. I cannot get any size small wire thru there. I have the side holes cleared, but do not know it the hole in top of JN where the screwdriver slot lives is supposed to go all the way thru. This is my third time rebuild and previously have had good idle, but the bike dies every time when given any throttle.
Yes, it must have an axial hole all the way through. Fuel has to come up from the bowl, pass through the pilot jet, get some air mixed with it, then enter the carb venturi and go on into the engine. If it can't do that, it can't idle for beans.
Have a look-see: flic.kr/p/P7A4xY
The hole is very small; the picture above has one strand of wire from a 16 gauge wire sticking through it. The hole is less than .015" in diameter. You should be able to see light through it, though.
I suspect that your's is not completely blocked, but it does have a bit of junk in it.
If yours is blocked such that you can't clear it with a bit of copper wire after soaking in carb cleaner, then the only solution is to go get a new one.
Tom
souperdoo - You dont happen to know the orafice size do you? I have it soaking right now, It would be nice to know the diameter. i'lI need something pretty stiff to open it up.
Well, if it is a 38 pilot jet then it is .38mm in diameter, which is just under .015". The smallest pin gauge I have in the shop is .015" and if feels like it just wants to start, but won't quite go in.
Honestly, it might be easiest to get a new one. A bit larger wouldn't hurt, I expect, and a Harly dealer might have a 40 in stock more readily than a Kawasaki dealer would have one.
Tom
The smallest poker I can find, is a sewing needle @ .22. I will try the local Harley Shop for a CVQ PIlot Jet. Thank you very much! Gary
Hi Gary,
The Sportsters used a version of the CVK for a while. Since it is a larger engine it uses a larger pilot jet. If you can find a 40 you should be OK. I have a 42 in my carb, but I have intake, head, and exhaust mods.
The worst that can happen is that you wouldn't be able to adjust the idle mixture down enough and you"d be a tad rich at idle and up to about 1/4 throttle. Not the end of the world, and it would get you going again.
The pilot jets are so small that, once clogged, it's hard to find something to clean them out with that won't screw them up!
Tom
Im having some trouble I hope someone can help with.
I disassembled the carb and went to put back in the jet needle and it wont go back in, the new one or the old one. not sure what to do
was that tech day related to the diaphram in Etna California? Cuz I did that exact same thing there. Scared the living heck out of me thinking I ruined my diaphram a long way from home. Here is is 5 years later and it still works great. Just had the carb apart.
+Rich Schaff
I didn't remember that it was yours!
Yes, it was Etna and it scared me too! I was glad it shrank back for you and good to hear it is still going strong!
Gawd, the thing looked like big portobello mushroom...
I knew by the way you said it that it was mine! I mind not that I'm your poster child. Thanks for the help then, and for this fine video.
I've watched this series of videos countless times...Excellent info! I got a 1996 KLX 650C from my uncle a few years ago...he "cleaned the carb" but it didn't run right when I got it. I let it sit the last couple years and finally tore apart the carb and cleaned it really well...found the jet needle (collar) was missing. Now I can't find the part ANYWHERE!!! Ordered from dealer only to find out a week later they were discontinued. Went to Harley dealer and ordered part number 27100-88....waited a week for that part and when i got home with it today, it won't fit! It won't drop into the hole for the main jet and even if it did, it does not appear the smaller end would fit through the bottom anyway. Where can I get this part??? Thanks!
Marcus,
For some reason, the Chinese think that we need to have the collar in a rebuild kit so they put one in their kits. I've never considered replacing the damn thing so never had a need for it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Try this one from e-bay: www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Rebuild-Kit-For-1987-2007-Kawasaki-KLR650-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-NEW/282886578563?fits=Model%3AKLR650&hash=item41dd5aa183:g:SZ8AAOSwysRaqztn:sc:USPSFirstClass!90277!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
I reviewed a similar kit from Sumo here: www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/sumo-carb-kit-helpswrestling-with-the-cvk40 and found that it was pretty good quality stuff. Unfortunately, Sumo shows "Out of stock" for the CVK40 kit right now. Dunno if that is permanent or not.
Partzilla has the "Jet-Needle, P/N 16017-1254", but they want $27.50 plus shipping. www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/16017-1254?ref=c2fa7691e5b72bd4eedea23f745287de423fee6a
If the e-bay rebuild kit for $11 is of similar quality to the Sumo stuff I would not hesitate to use the collar. BTW, there are cheaper options on e-bay but those ship from China. They are only two bucks cheaper, though.
Hope that helps you out!
Tom
Thank you for messaging me on the other board as well. Tom, that is excellent information! I don't think my replies are going through over there so will ask here... The part# for 96 KLX650C is 16017-1367....but for a 96 KLR650 is 16017-1254. What is the difference? Will I need to use the needle from the rebuild kit for KLR to make sure it seats in there correctly? Thank you so much for the info! I was searching for KLX and didn't think to expand my search for KLR's too.
Hi Marcus,
Kawasaki part numbers can be weird. Often I can not discern a difference between two parts with different part numbers.
For example, I just did some research on what I have here, which is a KLR carburetor and a Vulcan carburetor. The Vulcan carburetor is a CVK40, but it has an accelerator pump. Thereby hangs another tale...
The Vulcan carb uses a different part number from the KLR part. The small end measures .195", the large end 205", and the hole is .098". The Vulcan part fits in a KLR carburetor. The difference between the two is that the KLR's collar is longer by about .020" on the part that sticks into the venturi. That is the only difference I can find and I don't know why that difference is there, though I'm sure some Keihin engineer does.
Now, I have heard that the Harley part will not fit the KLR carb. I have no direct experience with that because the last time I had a Harley was in 1974 (it was a bad experience) and the Harley carb doesn't fit the KLR. Thus, I have no interest in it. I do use a larger pilot jet in my carb, which came from the Harley dealer because the Harley carbs need a larger pilot jet. I digress.
I don't want to be patronizing, as I'm sure you've tried this, but it is the small end that goes into the carb first even though it looks like it should be the other way around.
It is beyond me why Keihin would make different outside diameters on the collar; perhaps they don't. I do know that some of the part numbers include a size designator. e.g. the KLR collar is listed as a "JET-NEEDLE, #6". Perhaps the KLX collar has a different dimension on the height of the collar, thus the different part number and perhaps that is the only difference.
Knowing that the diameter of the collar is .196", perhaps you could measure the diameter of the hole in the KLX carb. If a #9 drill bit shank fits snugly that would be a good indication that the KLR collar would fit. Would a difference in height make a major difference? I doubt it.
Since you can get one for $11 I think I'd go that route and give it a try. It will certainly work better than not having one! Then you can keep an eye out on e-bay, Amazon, etc to see if the Chinese ever produce a rebuild kit for the KLX650/C/R.
I'd be interested to know the dimensions of the Harley part, should you be able to take measurements. I'd like to understand why it doesn't fit.
Tom
The kit arrived yesterday. I have put it all back together (the collar from the kit fits perfectly on my KLX carb). Putting it back in today. Keeping fingers crossed! Thanks again Tom...I still owe you those measurements and will get them as soon as I can on that Harley collar.
Marcus,
I hope it runs well for you!
Thanks,
Tom
Would you suggest medium threadlocker on the hex screws?
No, there's nothing in the carb that really needs to have thread locker on it. I'd stay away from it and instead focus on just using proper torque. Sometimes even a medium threadlocker can be too much for small fasteners and you run the risk of stripping the head.
Just finished rebuilding mine, but my bike must be Californian because my adjuster needle is plugged.
They are all plugged. It is easy to pop out. Gently drill a hole in it, turn a sheet metal screw in until it grabs the plug, and pull it out.
@@souperdoo what does the adjuster needle do?
@@MichaelMike Turning the needle out makes the idle mixture richer, which improves the engine's running at idle and allows it to transition from idle to off-idle better.
I cleaned the carbs . Now bike revs up high when starting but slowly revs drop down and eventually shut down. Probably running rich. How do I fix it. Fyi I also took out one of the washers from 22 cent mod
It could be any number of things, but the first couple that come to mind are a vacuum leak at the carb manifold or bad gas or water in the gas.
@@souperdoo gas is new. Doesnt see to have leaks. I cleaned the carb again and put the original jetting needle. Was using amazon kerby repair kit. My might have petcock drips constantly on reserve and flows whe. Turned on. Is that normal.
@@souperdoo opened the gas tank cap and now runs
@@protectork9831 Glad you got it fixed. Wierd that opening the cap fixed it because they usually don't build up the vacuum that fast. Could've happened over time if you have had the tank closed up for a few days without running any gas through it. Still, whatever fixes it is good!
@@souperdoo thank you for all your help. Hopefully it will stay running long enough for me to sell it. Working on carbs is not my thing , I learned that
Is there a rubber o ring in the pilot jet
No, there are no o-rings on the jets.
I turned my carburetor over and a hard plastic round piece fell out .i dont know where it came from
Do you have a picture of this piece?
interesting