I really appreciate you making these videos showing all the little details. I loved your one explaining the rigging as well and all the options. It's so great to see and hear your thoughts as you work through the problems...or as I like to say the fun challenges of life.
Hey there Dave. The holes in the aft lockers are for the oar handles. They fit in there and the blades rest in the slots either side of the mast. Theyre a bit of a pain as they are quite long and tend to get in the way of the lockers but are stored out of the way. J
Hi Dave , the hole in the rear bulkhead in the 2 rear lockers is for oars, the blades go under the wooden mast step and the other end go in the holes . Re the forward locker, i have stuffed mine with empty plastic water/pop bottles , they stuff in nicely and are easy to take out if you need to. They are great buoyancy and recycled, and they don't degrade like polystyrene
Hi Neil. Many thanks for the comment and advice. I found out ony recently about the oars stowage which is quite neat, however I still wonder if those gaps under the thwart are a good idea for water coming over the bow.!! Polystyrene is still in the bow tank. Not had the guts to go in there yet but think bottles are a good shout. Need to start drinking fizzy!!!
The holes in the sealed aft compartments were likely created by a PO to help dry out the space. On my Lugger there are no such holes, but I have found the foam to be soggy because of water ingress over the years - not a fan of enclosed polystyrene - and it has all been removed. I think they put it in there because of some legal requirement that the boat should still float even with the chamber punctured.
Cheers Jackrabbit. Someone else said they may have been for the oars to fit in, but my oars are too long, I think perhaps your answer may be more accurate on this one. So I have a question for you!!! - This whole thing about bouyancy has me a bit confused. As far as I understand it, having an empty bouyancy tank, filled just with air is fine and probably better than filling it with stuff, but ony as long as it remains sealed. All the tanks in my Mirror are like this. I don't even have hatches to them and she floats fine. If you fill it with something then is the reason for this literally only if the hull or hatch gets compromised? My feelings are if you have tiny bits of polystyrene and the hull gets a hole in it then they're probably going to all escape anyway. In that case it's probably best to fill the space up with empty bottles or inject wateproof foam. This way I could then inject foam into the space but leave a compartment at the top for storing a few things in! At the end of the day my thoughts are that if the worst were to happen (Hole in hole or say capsize) then you just need the boat to float. I have always wondered if some kind of bags that you could manually inflate with canisters would do the job.
Jack Rabbit and Sailing with Dave - those holes are actually for the standard length oars (8'6") that came with that series of Lugger hull. The blades of the oars are stowed under the mast thwart and the handles angle down into the locker with handles into those holes. I think the 8'6" oars are far too short for the lugger.
Yes I definitely agree with that too. Find a decent lake or some calm water where u know you won't get into trouble and have a play. I'll be capsizing Lulu early next season for sure just to see how much work is needed to recover her.
Interesting, i have similar stuff to do on a Dabber rebuild, Re too much buoyancy, you can never have too much but it needs to be high up at the ends not low down, A rowing gig i built a while ago had decent bow & stern tanks right to the sheer line & was easy to right by the crew from inverted in fact almost self righting.
Hi there. Cheers for the comment. Bouyancy and swamping is a big debate on these Luggers/Dabbers. In fact re-ignited by the recent Dabber swamping off the coast of Aberdeenshire a few months ago. Self righting would be the perfect solution but I think you have to be careful with bouyancy. Too much and the boat will turtle and be unrecoverable, too little and she sinks!!! I've had a good look at the MK3's and the improved bouyancy they have and I really want to do a capsize but I think the issue with the Lugger is that she doesn't need bouyancy when she's upright, but she does when swamped. I am currently working on a system that may work and it will be part of the winter 2023 videos, so lets see if that bears any fruit. Otherwise maybe the next boat needs to be self bailing/righting but not sure what options that leaves!!!
Hi Dave, I don’t this replacing buoyancy with anchors is a good idea. A cubic meter of polystyrene balls has the same buoyancy as a solid block having the buoyancy at the front and rear it’s better for uprighting the dinghy than on the sides. Be safe keep above the water 😀
Yes, I agree. After a bit of time I think I have plenty of stowage anyway without compromising the bouyancy, so the bow will defo remain a bouyancy tank.
@@mactully322 sry mactully I missed this comment. I think that's a good idea. I may just leave it or I could replace with milk bottles. The more I think about it, the more I think closing it up and leaving be is the right answer!!!
The jamb cleats on the aft deck are for the main sheet that crosses the aft deck from the blocks. Is the hole in the aft end of the locker there for an oar handle to give it just enough room to fit?
Hi there. Yes those cleats I have seen offer a different way to use the mainsheet. I'm probably going to remove them in the winter. My oars are way too long to fit inside the lockers, I think I need to see if those holes are std and if not will probably seal them back up.
Theoretical design (in my head so probably an odd place) for a mast head bag you can inflate with a pull string if it turtles. Like a lifejacket type setup. Got a wooden teig though so presumably less likely to want to do the turtling in the first place. As Chris said above, test it.. Easy for me to glibly say that from my phone like 😆
Haha yes I fitted a masthead bad to my Mirror. I did capsize her quickly and it seemed to work, however I capsized her a lot in my early weeks and she never turtled until that infamous week sailing in 35mph winds. I think the wind pushed her over. I imagine i'd need a much larger bag for the Lugger though. I reckon though there must be some kind of auto or manual inflate device that could help with the mast and also lifting the boat higher while bailing out. I feel a project coming on for that!!!
I have a drascombe longboat. You will need all the buoyancy you can get. Do a capsize test an see how much water it takes. Avoid using tanks as storage. As for bailing just use a big bucket.
Hi Chris. Yes one of the things I am very aware of is capsizing the Lugger. As she's a 1984 model I don't think she's had the bouyancy upgrade, however I definitely intend on capsizing her intentionally next season in the shallows so I can get a good idea of how she behaves and of course how I can right her too. One thing that worries me is the fact she can sit quite low in the water once righted, so you can't bail her out as the centreboard box is lower than the waterline. One guy here said just bung the gap up with a towel and it should be enough to bail out. However Webb Chiles had this issue in the Pacific and never got her bailed out so I think we'll be testing that out and coming up with some novel ideas to help with that. I actually spoke to someone about the bouyancy upgrade, however they warned me off it as it makes the boat impossible to right if turtled. What do you do!!!???
Hi Jack rabbit. If you're referring to the transom locker then yes, the bilge has 2 holes designed to flood into the rear locker. However you can bung them just to keep things drier back there and i know a few Lugger owners who do that, especially when cruising to keep kit drier back there. If the water rises above the level of the door, that's also not watertight, then i guess you have bigger issues than keeping the locker dry!!! Some people have glassed in the door and either put a waterproof door on the top or inside the old door. Might think about that
@jackrabbit5047 I'm pondering on doing that too. Although the polystyrene in my bow tank is dry, if a but stinky and the hatch would need to be changed as its way too small. I thinknif the boat was not going on the sea at somenpoint then I would do that.
The side lockers are also open to the bilge. There is an open connection throuhg the ribs and the seam between lockers and bilge is also not designed and made to be watertight. It is possible to transfer them into boyancy chambers, but it is not an easy fix. Greatings from a dutch longboat owner.
@@bgt7874 Hi there fellow Drascombe sailor! Yes, I htink actually all 3 bouyancy tanks on the side, even the rear ones that may seem sealed are open to the water. The front 2 have polystyrene bouyancy tied up at the top of them, and I actually put in more polystyrene than I cut out of the rear side tanks when putting these new lockers in so hopefully she'll float a tickle better if nothing else.
I really appreciate you making these videos showing all the little details. I loved your one explaining the rigging as well and all the options. It's so great to see and hear your thoughts as you work through the problems...or as I like to say the fun challenges of life.
Thank you so much for the comment. I think it really helps to go through the issues and not just show you things done!!
Hey there Dave. The holes in the aft lockers are for the oar handles. They fit in there and the blades rest in the slots either side of the mast. Theyre a bit of a pain as they are quite long and tend to get in the way of the lockers but are stored out of the way. J
Interesting. I will have to see if my oars fit, although I'm sure they're too long to fit in the stowage.
Hi Dave , the hole in the rear bulkhead in the 2 rear lockers is for oars, the blades go under the wooden mast step and the other end go in the holes . Re the forward locker, i have stuffed mine with empty plastic water/pop bottles , they stuff in nicely and are easy to take out if you need to. They are great buoyancy and recycled, and they don't degrade like polystyrene
Hi Neil. Many thanks for the comment and advice. I found out ony recently about the oars stowage which is quite neat, however I still wonder if those gaps under the thwart are a good idea for water coming over the bow.!! Polystyrene is still in the bow tank. Not had the guts to go in there yet but think bottles are a good shout. Need to start drinking fizzy!!!
The holes in the sealed aft compartments were likely created by a PO to help dry out the space. On my Lugger there are no such holes, but I have found the foam to be soggy because of water ingress over the years - not a fan of enclosed polystyrene - and it has all been removed. I think they put it in there because of some legal requirement that the boat should still float even with the chamber punctured.
Cheers Jackrabbit. Someone else said they may have been for the oars to fit in, but my oars are too long, I think perhaps your answer may be more accurate on this one.
So I have a question for you!!! - This whole thing about bouyancy has me a bit confused. As far as I understand it, having an empty bouyancy tank, filled just with air is fine and probably better than filling it with stuff, but ony as long as it remains sealed. All the tanks in my Mirror are like this. I don't even have hatches to them and she floats fine.
If you fill it with something then is the reason for this literally only if the hull or hatch gets compromised?
My feelings are if you have tiny bits of polystyrene and the hull gets a hole in it then they're probably going to all escape anyway. In that case it's probably best to fill the space up with empty bottles or inject wateproof foam. This way I could then inject foam into the space but leave a compartment at the top for storing a few things in!
At the end of the day my thoughts are that if the worst were to happen (Hole in hole or say capsize) then you just need the boat to float. I have always wondered if some kind of bags that you could manually inflate with canisters would do the job.
Jack Rabbit and Sailing with Dave - those holes are actually for the standard length oars (8'6") that came with that series of Lugger hull. The blades of the oars are stowed under the mast thwart and the handles angle down into the locker with handles into those holes. I think the 8'6" oars are far too short for the lugger.
I'm trying to figure out buoyancy as well, I like the one fellas advice on using it awhile before deciding!
Yes I definitely agree with that too. Find a decent lake or some calm water where u know you won't get into trouble and have a play. I'll be capsizing Lulu early next season for sure just to see how much work is needed to recover her.
Love your work Dave. Really enjoying what you do. Keep it up eh.
Ian from Downunder. 👍🏻👍🏻🍷
Thank you for the kind words. Definitely a lot more to come!
Interesting, i have similar stuff to do on a Dabber rebuild, Re too much buoyancy, you can never have too much but it needs to be high up at the ends not low down, A rowing gig i built a while ago had decent bow & stern tanks right to the sheer line & was easy to right by the crew from inverted in fact almost self righting.
Hi there. Cheers for the comment. Bouyancy and swamping is a big debate on these Luggers/Dabbers. In fact re-ignited by the recent Dabber swamping off the coast of Aberdeenshire a few months ago. Self righting would be the perfect solution but I think you have to be careful with bouyancy. Too much and the boat will turtle and be unrecoverable, too little and she sinks!!!
I've had a good look at the MK3's and the improved bouyancy they have and I really want to do a capsize but I think the issue with the Lugger is that she doesn't need bouyancy when she's upright, but she does when swamped.
I am currently working on a system that may work and it will be part of the winter 2023 videos, so lets see if that bears any fruit. Otherwise maybe the next boat needs to be self bailing/righting but not sure what options that leaves!!!
Hi Dave, I don’t this replacing buoyancy with anchors is a good idea. A cubic meter of polystyrene balls has the same buoyancy as a solid block having the buoyancy at the front and rear it’s better for uprighting the dinghy than on the sides. Be safe keep above the water 😀
Yes, I agree. After a bit of time I think I have plenty of stowage anyway without compromising the bouyancy, so the bow will defo remain a bouyancy tank.
You could bag the polystyrene this would help with buoyancy and the smell
@@mactully322 sry mactully I missed this comment. I think that's a good idea. I may just leave it or I could replace with milk bottles. The more I think about it, the more I think closing it up and leaving be is the right answer!!!
The jamb cleats on the aft deck are for the main sheet that crosses the aft deck from the blocks. Is the hole in the aft end of the locker there for an oar handle to give it just enough room to fit?
Hi there. Yes those cleats I have seen offer a different way to use the mainsheet. I'm probably going to remove them in the winter.
My oars are way too long to fit inside the lockers, I think I need to see if those holes are std and if not will probably seal them back up.
Theoretical design (in my head so probably an odd place) for a mast head bag you can inflate with a pull string if it turtles. Like a lifejacket type setup. Got a wooden teig though so presumably less likely to want to do the turtling in the first place. As Chris said above, test it.. Easy for me to glibly say that from my phone like 😆
Haha yes I fitted a masthead bad to my Mirror. I did capsize her quickly and it seemed to work, however I capsized her a lot in my early weeks and she never turtled until that infamous week sailing in 35mph winds. I think the wind pushed her over. I imagine i'd need a much larger bag for the Lugger though.
I reckon though there must be some kind of auto or manual inflate device that could help with the mast and also lifting the boat higher while bailing out. I feel a project coming on for that!!!
I have a drascombe longboat. You will need all the buoyancy you can get. Do a capsize test an see how much water it takes. Avoid using tanks as storage. As for bailing just use a big bucket.
Hi Chris. Yes one of the things I am very aware of is capsizing the Lugger. As she's a 1984 model I don't think she's had the bouyancy upgrade, however I definitely intend on capsizing her intentionally next season in the shallows so I can get a good idea of how she behaves and of course how I can right her too.
One thing that worries me is the fact she can sit quite low in the water once righted, so you can't bail her out as the centreboard box is lower than the waterline. One guy here said just bung the gap up with a towel and it should be enough to bail out. However Webb Chiles had this issue in the Pacific and never got her bailed out so I think we'll be testing that out and coming up with some novel ideas to help with that.
I actually spoke to someone about the bouyancy upgrade, however they warned me off it as it makes the boat impossible to right if turtled. What do you do!!!???
You can't seal the lockers unless you also seal the bottom (i.e., they are open to the bilge).
Hi Jack rabbit. If you're referring to the transom locker then yes, the bilge has 2 holes designed to flood into the rear locker. However you can bung them just to keep things drier back there and i know a few Lugger owners who do that, especially when cruising to keep kit drier back there. If the water rises above the level of the door, that's also not watertight, then i guess you have bigger issues than keeping the locker dry!!!
Some people have glassed in the door and either put a waterproof door on the top or inside the old door. Might think about that
@@SailingWithDave Thinking of doing the same on "Tica". BTW, I removed all the (soggy) foam in the bow chamber and use it for dry stowage.
@jackrabbit5047 I'm pondering on doing that too. Although the polystyrene in my bow tank is dry, if a but stinky and the hatch would need to be changed as its way too small. I thinknif the boat was not going on the sea at somenpoint then I would do that.
The side lockers are also open to the bilge. There is an open connection throuhg the ribs and the seam between lockers and bilge is also not designed and made to be watertight. It is possible to transfer them into boyancy chambers, but it is not an easy fix. Greatings from a dutch longboat owner.
@@bgt7874 Hi there fellow Drascombe sailor! Yes, I htink actually all 3 bouyancy tanks on the side, even the rear ones that may seem sealed are open to the water. The front 2 have polystyrene bouyancy tied up at the top of them, and I actually put in more polystyrene than I cut out of the rear side tanks when putting these new lockers in so hopefully she'll float a tickle better if nothing else.