102622/0016h PST 🇺🇸 Matt, thank you. Please note, Ferules must be used on all stranded cables. I saw the way you inserted the strands into the receptacles and fastened it by torquing the screw. Three things may happen with that procedure. 1) Unseen to naked eyes one single Cu strand can escape installation, which may lead to shorting and blow the fuse. 2) Usage of Ferules of proper diameter of the cable and crimped for proper seating. This will avoid the above issue. 3) Your presentation is observed all over the world, by DIY guys, Engineers, researchers and Scientists (PhD). DIY guys will make the same mistake and bitter experience, at last. Cheers.
Great video! Finally someone who shows the whole process, thank you! Quick question: would this exact device charge two parallel 100Ah lithium (each) batteries ?
102622/0034h PST 🇺🇸 Bert, thank you, that was an important and timely enquiry. Like you pointed out, AWG6 cables and AWG6 Ferules MUST be used. Thank you again. Cheers.
Ferrules that are cheap will not be made out of metals that should be used so it’s probably better not to use them to use cheap ones you must calculate the wire size
If you are using a bus bar, I don't see why not. I'm looking at adding a bus bar soon as I need to connect some more up to the same system and it's not going to be practical to connect everything directly anymore.
I have done this. Just make sure you cables to your battery can handle the total max amps in your system and you should be fine. Install a fuse on the positive line before the bus bar. I used a 40amp breaker
You can do that, however straight to the battery means it has the most actual voltage sensing as if you have something like a large in there running it will essentially create a voltage drop along the cable
Hey Colin, I have a 50a fuse on the cable. It really shouldn't ever get used since the charger has a 40a fuse on it anyhow, so there should never be 50a of current on the cable. I actually did this cable originally for a different charge source and 50a is the max input current of the battery. Again, that source was also fused, but I like to be on the safe side. So, short answer: it's just what I had that already had a fuse on it and I like to be cautious. Really though, the fuse shouldn't be needed.
102622/0001h PST 🇺🇸 Colin, There’s an inbuilt 40A (Automobile fuse). No additional fuse is required. The main thing you need to remember is to use AWG6 (16mm2) cables to charge battery. If you use any any cable lesser than that, the cables will heat up, causing issues. Cheers.
@@Matt-df6hz yes, the output should be fused to protect the output wiring - the fuse built into the IP22 is to protect against reverse polarity, not to protect the DC output wiring
Love the video, and I plan to put a fuse in line just in case. I have seen cheaper models but not worth the money in my opinion when wanting to be save.
How is that fees going to prep the cable if it rubs together and shorts there’s one on the charger to stop blowing up not the cable power flows out the charger, but when it is off if anything happens, it’s going to pull up power from the battery
I don't think you are suppose to use the "Li-ion" setting, there should be a more specific Lithium Iron Phosphate aka LifePo4 setting to choose from in the app
Definitely should happen but cheap ones make the connection worse and they get hot so if good quality ones are not available it makes sense not to use it
I purchased the IP22 and it ran really hot on 30 amps and not able to even hold unit. I contacted Victron and they said it was normal to get hot! What a Joke! Here is the review I left on Amazon: I was surprised when I touched the case and it was too hot to pick up while running at the rated 30 amps. It was actually 134F or 55C and no electronic item should be this hot ever and poses a risk for fire. Upon inspection there is a tiny mini fan (40mmx10mm) inside near the center and it blows air on to a transformer next to it and that is it. The fan basically does nothing. I could feel no air flow exiting or blowing around the unit. There is a cover on the back end and when I removed it for inspection I noticed a place where a fan was designed to be installed but none existed. How could a manufacture with a high end name like Victron let this happen. I think they wanted to make the IP22 as quiet as possible, hence the mini fan located inside mid center but they forfeited cooling when they took the rear fan option away and slapped a cover over it. I had to submit a technical support request form and I am waiting for Victron to get back to me. I will update this when they do. I also went to the Victron community forum where multiple people were complaining for quite sometime about the heating issue and it appeared to me that Victron never acknowledged the problem. We shall see. Update: Here is Victron's response: "Depending on models, there is a fan on the side of the unit while others are left blank. Victron has said that these units will heat up when in operation, and there should be no cause for concern. The units do have overheat protection on them." End Quote. Anyone who works with electronics knows that the enemy of electronics is heat and for the IP22 to get so hot as not able to hold unit in your hands is unacceptable. I will never buy Victron again. Meanwhile I have added to more fans to the unit. I added one fan in the space provided on the back end side, just removed cover that covered up where the fan should of been. I also made a hole in the cover and added a fan so the fan on the cover would blow air in and the fan on the back end would blow the air out. I wired in parallel with the internal mid centered fan. Now runs about 15 degrees cooler. Shame on Victron!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!
102622/0016h PST 🇺🇸 Matt, thank you. Please note, Ferules must be used on all stranded cables.
I saw the way you inserted the strands into the receptacles and fastened it by torquing the screw.
Three things may happen with that procedure. 1) Unseen to naked eyes one single Cu strand can escape installation, which may lead to shorting and blow the fuse.
2) Usage of Ferules of proper diameter of the cable and crimped for proper seating. This will avoid the above issue. 3) Your presentation is observed all over the world, by DIY guys, Engineers, researchers and Scientists (PhD). DIY guys will make the same mistake and bitter experience, at last. Cheers.
Great video! Finally someone who shows the whole process, thank you! Quick question: would this exact device charge two parallel 100Ah lithium (each) batteries ?
I was looking for exactly that same question; would a ''bank'' be considered as ''one battery'' ?
Yes, I use it to charge 3x parallel 100ah lithium batteries.
@@pifle9471 battery banks are not visible to the charger as long as they are within its charging parameters. It just stinks. It is a big one
What gauge wires are you using? Guessing 6AWG?
You don’t use ferrules? Crushing wires isn’t my idea of a solid connection.
102622/0034h PST 🇺🇸 Bert, thank you, that was an important and timely enquiry. Like you pointed out, AWG6 cables and AWG6 Ferules MUST be used. Thank you again. Cheers.
Ferrules that are cheap will not be made out of metals that should be used so it’s probably better not to use them to use cheap ones you must calculate the wire size
Since it has a fan, It would be usefull to record the noise it makes as well imo.
Instead of wiring directly to the battery terminals could you also wire this charger to the positive and negative bus bar?
If you are using a bus bar, I don't see why not. I'm looking at adding a bus bar soon as I need to connect some more up to the same system and it's not going to be practical to connect everything directly anymore.
I have done this. Just make sure you cables to your battery can handle the total max amps in your system and you should be fine. Install a fuse on the positive line before the bus bar. I used a 40amp breaker
You can do that, however straight to the battery means it has the most actual voltage sensing as if you have something like a large in there running it will essentially create a voltage drop along the cable
Hi Matt, what size fuse did you use on the positive cable? Is the charger not fused itself?
Hey Colin, I have a 50a fuse on the cable. It really shouldn't ever get used since the charger has a 40a fuse on it anyhow, so there should never be 50a of current on the cable. I actually did this cable originally for a different charge source and 50a is the max input current of the battery. Again, that source was also fused, but I like to be on the safe side. So, short answer: it's just what I had that already had a fuse on it and I like to be cautious. Really though, the fuse shouldn't be needed.
102622/0001h PST 🇺🇸 Colin, There’s an inbuilt 40A (Automobile fuse). No additional fuse is required. The main thing you need to remember is to use AWG6 (16mm2) cables to charge battery.
If you use any any cable lesser than that, the cables will heat up, causing issues. Cheers.
@@matt-talks-tech The specs on the IP22 state that the fuse in the unit is to protect against reverse polarity, not to protect the DC output wiring.
so should the output be fused or not and why? I'm still confused lol
@@Matt-df6hz yes, the output should be fused to protect the output wiring - the fuse built into the IP22 is to protect against reverse polarity, not to protect the DC output wiring
Ciao funziona per le batterie AGM?
Hi Matt. What size of wire have you used (16mm2)? If I put ferrules on it is there enough space?
Yes I used AWG6. It should fit with ferrules.
You must calculate this. It depends on your situation.
Love the video, and I plan to put a fuse in line just in case. I have seen cheaper models but not worth the money in my opinion when wanting to be save.
Why do you have a fuse between charger and battery lol? Did you not see fuse already installed behind black cover?
You should always have a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
How is that fees going to prep the cable if it rubs together and shorts there’s one on the charger to stop blowing up not the cable power flows out the charger, but when it is off if anything happens, it’s going to pull up power from the battery
I don't think you are suppose to use the "Li-ion" setting, there should be a more specific Lithium Iron Phosphate aka LifePo4 setting to choose from in the app
Yes👍⚡ 🔌💡🔋
Rather than inserting the bare wire, you should finish them first with ferrules. Ferrules rule!
Brilliant suggestion!
Definitely should happen but cheap ones make the connection worse and they get hot so if good quality ones are not available it makes sense not to use it
Normal would be to connect -ve first .....
I purchased the IP22 and it ran really hot on 30 amps and not able to even hold unit. I contacted Victron and they said it was normal to get hot! What a Joke! Here is the review I left on Amazon: I was surprised when I touched the case and it was too hot to pick up while running at the rated 30 amps. It was actually 134F or 55C and no electronic item should be this hot ever and poses a risk for fire. Upon inspection there is a tiny mini fan (40mmx10mm) inside near the center and it blows air on to a transformer next to it and that is it. The fan basically does nothing. I could feel no air flow exiting or blowing around the unit. There is a cover on the back end and when I removed it for inspection I noticed a place where a fan was designed to be installed but none existed. How could a manufacture with a high end name like Victron let this happen. I think they wanted to make the IP22 as quiet as possible, hence the mini fan located inside mid center but they forfeited cooling when they took the rear fan option away and slapped a cover over it. I had to submit a technical support request form and I am waiting for Victron to get back to me. I will update this when they do. I also went to the Victron community forum where multiple people were complaining for quite sometime about the heating issue and it appeared to me that Victron never acknowledged the problem. We shall see. Update: Here is Victron's response: "Depending on models, there is a fan on the side of the unit while others are left blank. Victron has said that these units will heat up when in operation, and there should be no cause for concern. The units do have overheat protection on them." End Quote. Anyone who works with electronics knows that the enemy of electronics is heat and for the IP22 to get so hot as not able to hold unit in your hands is unacceptable. I will never buy Victron again. Meanwhile I have added to more fans to the unit. I added one fan in the space provided on the back end side, just removed cover that covered up where the fan should of been. I also made a hole in the cover and added a fan so the fan on the cover would blow air in and the fan on the back end would blow the air out. I wired in parallel with the internal mid centered fan. Now runs about 15 degrees cooler. Shame on Victron!
Stop leaving this comment everywhere there were reasons behind it, but you couldn’t even be bothered to check
Vicron such a rip off
This is not a rip-off. Is it expensive charger for their expenses? Batteries? It’s very high-quality and last.
Useless
I do not know whether you’re saying the video is useless or this charger neither of them are and you should have prior knowledge