My First No-Till Soybean Planting and There's a Drought!!
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2025
- I know, the audio is all over the place.
Besides that, no till bean planting!!
It was less dusty than tillage, but the check up on the beans at the end of the video left everything to be desired. Was it the drill? the tillage? the rain?
I blame the tillage.
Well Jacob I've been waiting for this video cause it truly show why no-till every year in this area doesn't work so good in the soil we have. The first 2 fields were rock hard and dry and to be truthful I knew the drill would put the seed in the ground no problem but the field you worked up I was worried about using that drill because its so heavy but it looks like it did a fine job to me. As they say you never know till you try something new and see how it goes. Well you know ware the drill is if you want to try to drill in rye after the beans. Bandit
Hey bandit were you been
@@Panhandlefarmer1999 Busy to say the least ! LOL Leave the house early and get home late doesnt give me enough time to get video's but up but that has changed as of Friday so be on the look out for video's again, I've built something I know you guys will like ! Bandit
Hey Bandit where did you get that monster?? That's a cool looking drill and looked like it was doing a fine job getting them in the ground, and the stand in that tilled field looked GREAT! I think Jacob had other problems getting a good stand (or keeping it alive) in that no till field, but I don't think it was the drill's fault. Hard to say without actually having been there and digging in the dirt behind the drill-- that tells the actual tale of how it's working.
I'd say just from the vid I don't think he'd have gotten a better planting job out of any other notill drill... even one like OLF has or the 8400 conservation till with the coulter cart I used to run for the BIL in Indiana... I mean, it's a drill-- it's all "slit and smash" in the end LOL:) Long as the depth is right and the population is right and the furrow is closed, that's all you can expect from ANY drill....
That thing looks like it'd plant well even into sod, which was basically what he was doing by the looks of it. Clay sod at that, I bet, or clay loam. Looks something like our Needville farm dirt... course we were always 'full till". We had some guys doing "no till" on 40 inch beds and stuff more as research than anything, but nobody TRULY does no-till down in our area, mostly because we farm on beds and you have to build them back up eventually with a hipper, even if its just one pass every few years... plus with cotton you have "plowup restrictions" that means you have to plow out the stubble by October 15 for the boll weevil control because it'll regrow from the shredded stalks and leaf out and start growing new leaves and stuff out of the cut stubble unless you run a row stalk puller to yank the root balls out of the ground and upend them on the surface to kill them so they can't regrow, or spray the stubble with 2,4 D behind the shredder to kill the stubble and prevent it regrowing. Stalk pullers use a pair of blades pinching together under the stalks to cut a "V" down the center of the row yanking the stalks and dirt out of the V and cutting off the roots, and tossing it all in the air behind it in rooster tails to shake the heavier dirt off the lighter roots so they land on top and dry out and die... which is basically tillage again of a type... not full tillage, but still LOL:)
Anyway the way yall struggle with the wet ground up there looks like yall have some fields that could really benefit from being farmed "ridge till" or on beds... all you really need is a hipper (row disk) to throw up ridged beds on whatever row spacing you want and then run the planter down the tops of the beds. Keeps the plants and roots up out of the standing water, and water runs out of the fields through the middles between rows, so prevents drowning and rotted seed forcing replants. Heck you could try it out even using a good row crop cultivator set to throw up low beds and planting on top of them to see how it works, without even investing in equipment... old hippers are available cheap down south...
Soil conditions were wrong for no till Too dry and soil too hard. Also I would have burned down the greenery 1 few days before planting to preserve moisture. No till may catch up if you get sufficient moisture.
In drier conditions, sowing into a forrest is always going to result in poor emergence no matter what seeding system is being used.
Get your rye planted early and the roots will break up a lot of compaction over the winter
Jacob, this idea doesn’t apply to a drill, but works great for late beans with a conventional planter. When we plant beans late or following rye, we plant about 2inches down, and run about 10 gal of water in furrow and 30 gal over the top in furrow before the closing wheel. The beans swell within an hour of planting and get a really fast start. The planter is a 6 row set up for 2x2x2 for corn so we have the pumps and tanks already. Manageable with 40 gal of water capacity.
Hard to say, I’ve never used a drill for beans. They seem to come up good notill with a planter but who knows.
I have mixed feelings on no till. It doesn’t work for my ground.
Other years You complained about too much rain. You got Your wish this year. Hows that working out for You. When it's wet it is hard to get things done but everything is green and growing.
I loved the drought.
Yep exactly.... after 2 years of drought we'll take every drop of rain whenever we can, thankfully this year has been more normal, though we're a bit dry now not much the past few weeks. at least it's not 100 degrees anymore (still 90's though).
Nothing grows in the dust!
Looking forward to seeing the yield difference
I'm sold on no till! Wish you could have planted it a month earlier!
Good video.
How'd the stand look on the no-till... that'll tell the tale on the drill. Looked like it was getting them in the ground good, as best as could be expected given the hard no till ground conditions. Depth is probably by tilting the drill back or forward on the press wheels using the front turnbuckle over the tongue... Interesting drill thing looks tough like it's made for sod planting... good no-till drill.
When did you spray burndown? BIL from Indiana thought the locals were nuts because they planted corn into a field and then sprayed the burndown the next day. I was like "yeah they can do that here at Shiner because we're on hills on sandy ground-- even if it rains they can get in within a day or two at most after even a 2 inch rain and spray burndown without mudding up the field. At Needville on the perfectly flat heavy clay soil you could NEVER do that because the ground would be too wet to get onto before the corn came up..." Of course in Indiana if they're no-tilling they spray the burndown before planting.
Looks like maybe the stuff growing in the no-till field simply hung around too long and competed against the soybeans too much when they were emerging and still really young. That's why they want the burndown out before planting in Indiana, to kill the competition ahead of emergence of the soybeans. PLUS, if it was dry, the grasses may have outcompeted the soybeans for moisture... beans DEFINITELY need more moisture than grasses. Kinda what it looks like to me anyway given what you showed us.
I know you battle the rain and wet ground, and it can be a challenge-- I farmed on flat clay ground that drops less than 3 feet in a half mile length of the farm all my life, and a two inch rain for us even on tilled ground meant basically 2 weeks out of the field before it dried up again to get in there... unless it was powder dry and we got REALLY good drying weather which could cut that to a week, but that was fairly rare... REALLY a challenge to get stuff done in a timely way and very aggravating at times to deal with. BUT at least when you're getting rain, SOMETHING will grow and the crop will usually make something. We get killer droughts down here with 100+ degree temps sometimes every day for months on end (just came out of 2 years of it here in Texas before this year) and I can tell you for a fact-- when you drive across the state 8 hours and see NOTHING but bare wheat fields stretching as far as the eye can see, with about a 15 foot strip of not even boot high wheat growing along the field edges where it managed to suck a little moisture from the surrounding ditch or ground, and the rest of the field bare, or huge cotton fields stretching from horizon to horizon in the Panhandle that still bear the planter and tractor marks from being planted months before, again with nothing growing anywhere except on the edges and ends of the field for maybe 15-30 feet in before fading to bare dirt... or even in the heavy clay soils down in SE TX that can hold the moisture grow crops knee to waist high but that bear only a few bolls on cotton, or a few spindly heads on milo (grain sorghum) or didn't head out at all, or some nubbins on the corn stalks, well, you learn not to gripe about rain REAL quick... NOTHING will grow in the dust-- gotta have SOME moisture to make a crop, and lack of water is usually the #1 limiting factor in yields... Usually we have plenty (46 inches a year of rain at Needville, 100 miles west in Shiner we get 36 inches a year) and soil plays a big part as well as timing (Shiner climate is more "continental" since we're about 100+ miles inland from the beach here, versus about 60 miles inland at Needville) and the soil is sandy/loamy hills here in Shiner versus pancake flat clay plains at Needville and the surrounding areas). Clay can hold onto moisture through a drought a lot longer, where the sand here can't hold much water for very long and dries out much faster, so we're a lot faster to go into drought conditions here... You wouldnt think there'd be that much difference only 100 miles apart, but there is... if I were farming here I'd do things a LOT different than I did there.
It's all a learning experience and well, one 8 acre field shouldn't bust you... get what you can, learn what you can, and try it again next year... about all you can do...
Hard ground = no room for root growth
Tilled/renovated soil = room for root growth.
Deep roots equals healthy, strong plants.
But BUt BUT mah worrrrmmmmmssssss! lol
You have worms?
Not after that Ivermectin
@@HalfAssedRanchinghook worms, or round worms ?
I would have killed the weed a week in before I have done notill for 30 years very little tillage around here
I would have burned that greenery down 7 to 10 before the drill. That's me, though. Keeps stuff from robbing from your crop. Just my blathering opinion....
Exactly.... no competition is good for emerging seedlings...
Good video, we’ve run notill on our muck ground for a long time, it works well for us.
No till is about the only way to do muck from what I've seen of it in northern Indiana... tilled muck turns to powder when dry and is SO fluffy you sink in it, and then to mush when wet and you'll sink or dig into it axle deep... no bueno.
From the muck soil I've seen, though, you could push a dry stick into it and come back to see it growing... stuff is phenomenally productive, if you can stay on top of it (wet or dry). Plenty of spots on the nephew's muck places that we dumped the combine out on EVERY PASS before going down the hill to keep the weight to a bare minimum and STILL saw the combine go in a couple feet deep ruts in places... only ground I've ever walked on that bounced like a trampoline!
@@lukestrawwalker yep that’s true
I'm old enough to remember GT's ads for these in the 1980s Pennsylvania Farmer.
Was that bandits
yep
Nice trying no till.... and with the Tw.. 😅.. stay safe 🏴
What happened to your dad's pristine cab?
Not sure what your population was but 220,000 June 23rd would have been a good place to start. Don’t think you can say you gave no till a fair chance. I no till and conventional both corn and beans one practice doesn’t work everywhere.
Plus little bitty field like that surrounded on 3 sides by woods by the looks of it-- that's a deer food plot not a bean field LOL:)
You need do more videos shoot but was good
Beans look alsom
No till = no profit
that's what my Dad used to say, but it has it's place... BUT you gotta do it right-- right timing, right equipment, right methods, right materials, RIGHT SOILS, RIGHT CONDITIONS... if you do it right, it can produce as much or maybe a bit more than tilled crops in the same conditions, BUT if you do it wrong, forget about it... no contest. Tillage is much more forgiving in most conditions than no-till...