Can I save this battery damaged Amiga?
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This Amiga 500 Plus was very kindly donated to me last year by Neal of @NLKMediaGroup. He sent me this one along with another A500 rev 6 but this rev 8a (like most of them) has suffered the dreaded battery rot so lets look at it first.
On initial inspection it doesn't look too bad but by the time we're finished this turns into one of the worst I've ever repaired. That might be partly down to me though as I tried something a little different when cleaning this board up.
There's also a silly skit at the end so be sure to look out for that and thanks to @WhatHoSnorkers for the help :)
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Chapters
00:00 Intro
00:28 Initial look
03:00 Stripping down
07:43 244 & 373 testing
09:53 Cleaning up
11:45 Dremel mistakes
14:00 Solder coating
14:56 Review of the damage
20:42 Trace repair
23:44 More repairs
26:42 Almost back together
29:11 Assembly
31:38 Testing
35:55 Real Time Clock
41:36 Conclusion
43:25 Always wear a face mask while using a dremel (skit)
12:06 jesus! you gotta wonder how much of this damage was from Dremeling and not from battery leakage. moving that chunky bit over those thin & delicate copper traces, especially near pads, was brutal.
There was a fair but if corrosion on the side of the 244 with most the damage but I agree the dremel was too harsh for the job. I still think it was worth trying though and it wasn't like I was leaning on it. Some people have recommended a rubber tip which would certainly be less abrasive so I'll maybe try that on the next one.
@@CRG use green rubbertips next time. They are really good for that.
Already ordered 😃
Nice work. I used a rubber dremel head to expose some traces on a battery damaged board and it worked quite well. It is still possible to burn through traces with it but you need to be pretty aggressive.
And uh, I've been to that doctor and I'm a little sceptical about his credentials. I've only just been able to sit down again
I'll try a rubber tip, I see another comment recommending that method as well. Will give it a go on the next one.
To be honest at this stage I'm starting to wonder if Dr Snorkers is a medical professional or Bond villain 🤣
@@CRG in real life the bond villains are the good guys....
Glass fiber pen has always been my go to for corrosion, it's a lot easier to control and a lot less of a chance to mess something up, but it does take a little bit longer depending on the glass fiber pen
@@CRG Dr Snorkers always uses an abrasive rubber tip...
Get well soon!
Nice repair another A500+ saved, did have good laugh at the sketch on the end of video 😄😂
Thanks, it was just a silly sketch but its good to have fun with this RUclips hobby sometimes.
Gkad you're feeling better and I enjoyed your giggle at the end 😁
Thanks, I've had covid a couple of times now but this one was terrible for a few days. A silly little skit but sometimes you have to do these things 😂
Great skills and repair! Enjoyed watching.
Thanks Mike, glad to hear you enjoyed it.
Great work, Glen! Gives me ideas on how to fix my own projects! Trace repair looks like a PITA
OMG, started my comments too soon! Lovely piece there!
Glen. Have a look at necroware’s videos and see how does his repairs with a rubber tip on his dremel tool.
Will do, thanks for the tip
Trace repair isn't too bad once you get into a rhythm with it. Just plenty of flux, very little solder and a smaller tip than I was using.
I really suggest using a glass fiber pen to remove corrosion like that, most of it is surface level so it comes off pretty fast, but still a bit slower, but its a lot safer
Like I said that is my usual approach but I just wanted to try something a bit different here. I've ordered those rubber tips that people have recommended so will try that next time but always have the fibreglass pen to fall back on.
Quite lucky there with RTC surviving the voltage treatment.
I think the hazard when you use the hardened rotary tip is when you cross a trace or swipe from an etched area of the board onto a trace or a pad, then it naturally wants to bite into and grind away or lift the copper that is elevated relative to the etched area from which you're steering it. I think if you were to follow the traces carefully and gently always from the top never from the side you can liberate them from the mask with precision if need be, but then again, whether you want to do that... if you have a small break might as well use a scalpel tip under magnification, it'll open up the mask. And large area mask clearing works well with glass fibre.
Excellent video for chilling on a Sunday :)
Thanks, glad to hear you enjoyed it.
Hi man, You have a nice RUclips channel. I like your content. And the fun at the end is awesome. Great job you did with this Amiga 500. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
The Heart of this Amiga 500 + beats again!🤩 Interesting Video👌🏻
A masterclass in trace repair! BTW if you sneeze up some more GottaGoFast expansions, let me know, I need one for my A500!
Thanks and I'll certainly let you know if any other expansions randomly pop out 😂
@@CRG 😂👍
I could use an 030/882 with many MBs or RAM for an A600.....
But I guess I'll stick with the 5.5 I already have
@@brynjarborgersen8131 Damn Glen has a lot of 500 plusses with battery damage to fix with his Lidl grinding tool to meet the demand haha!
On a serious note: I guess fibre glass pen is a better method? Also, would painting new solder mask on the tinned traces provide even more protection, or is that overkill?
Wait, is it a Lidl or Action tool? I have the exact same tool but can’t remember where I got it. I remember it was dirt cheap.
Just in the middle of doing a 500+ and thankfully the battery corrosion wasn’t to bad. I cut the battery off and bathed the grotty parts etc. The keyboard hardly works though so that needs investigation.
Sounds good, keyboard probably just needs a good clean inside to bring it back. Hope you get it sorted and please let me know how it goes.
@@CRG Glenn, keyboard membrane was shot. However it’s got black screen on boot up. Occasionally it fires up but most of the time it doesn’t.
There are green abrasive rubertips for the dremel. They might be better to the board.
Yes, I've had a few comments to that regard. I would point out that I wasn't leaning on the dremel to any great amount but I do accept that it probably did cause some of the damage. I've ordered a set of those rubber tips and I'll try them next time.
Lovely to see, and great job repairing it back into a healthy state!
Thanks for helping with this one Snorkers, or sorry, Dr Snorkers 😆
I prefer to patch broken traces on the back of the board with component to component connections. It's hidden away from direct view and is more reliable (no need to solder to tiny and possibly already delaminating traces). And it looks like any other bodge wire/mod job.
Yes you can certainly do that and it is easier but I prefer to patch were the traces are split to maintain the original structure of said traces.
Nice job! Congratulation! And the end of the video .... 🤣🤣🤣!
Thanks, glad to hear you enjoyed the video and the ending. That was just a little bit of silly fun but sometimes you need to do these things 😄
Thanks for saving another Amiga mate :)
No problem, always try to do my best even if there are a few lessons to be learnt along the way.
@@CRG even though I know I couldn’t do what you’re doing, it gives me much pleasure to know you and a few others can :) I do enjoy your videos dude. 👍🏼
That is an epic repair.
I did my best and super happy to see it running. Bit of the shame I caused some extra damage with the dremel but lesson learnt.
glad you got a 500 plus back again glenn ...nice fix...great machine..great ending...lol😂
Got to ask - why are trying to lever agnus out with the plcc remover? It is supposed to work by squeezing the handles, that pulls the metal claws straight up out of the socket by pushing the plastic part against the socket. If you lever the chip out it will always put strain on the legs and twist (or worse) one or more legs
That correct method never works for me, could be the cheap extractor tool, so I just try to grip the chip and rock it back and forward until it comes out.
Adrian black uses some manucure thing with a rubber head.
IIRC Jan Beta was also using something similar...
So maybe look for a soft only lightly abrasive head or device. Maybe some beauty products do the trick?
I've obviously missed those videos as I'm usually up to date with both Jan and Adrian's work. But I've had plenty of comments with a similar recommendation, so a set of rubber tips have been ordered and I'll try those next time. But you gotta try these things, I learnt the hard way this time but at least at the end of it, the Amiga works.
@@CRG Yes and you also were able to fix it, so all is fine on that end as well :)
Last week bought a chuck for my dremel (or LIDL version like yours).
Much better than faffing around with those collet things. I can switch tools in seconds.
Interesting, is it a chuck that fits the lidl tool?
@@CRG Yes. 5mm is the max shaft size which is OK. Lots of sellers sell this.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314998574944
Well done!
Esslinger sells a Scratch brush "fiber glass" for watches that does a really good job on solder mask. SKU 16.325
Glen - How long should a component/chip/connector sit in white vinegar? I don't want to overdo it. Superb video btw. I have a wealth of Amiga 500+'s and quite a few more Archimedes to sort out from battery corrosion.
I left them for maybe 15-20 minutes. They really don't need to long, just leave them a few minutes, brush over with a toothbrush, then maybe give it another few minutes, then another quick brush and that's usually enough. If they are heavily corroded leave it a bit longer.
@@CRG Thankyou for that, appreciated and thankyou again for the past posts. Love them!
I gotta be honest, I'm just here for the accent.
Belfast born and bred
nice job bending the bodge wires to follow the trace paths! guess you would be great in data center cable management
You wouldn't say that if you seen the mess if wires below my desk 😅
Thanks though, I always try to follow the original traces where possible when making these repairs.
Removing all the nearby components first up, is definitely the way to go.
Ps, can you sneeze me a TF card?
Removing the components does add a little work to the process but it makes it a lot easier to catch all the damage.
Not sure I've got enough left sneeze out a TF card, only just recovered from the two you seen, still trying to get the fake blood off 😂
Using a grinding bit on a dremel on PCBs sounds kind of dangerous to me. That could very well have caused some of the trace damage that you saw. I've seen other RUclipsrs who have used dremels on PCBs tend to use some sort of rubber tipped bits (I believe they are known as rubber polishing bits) which seems safer/more gentler, and indeed, aforementioned youtubers have had great success using these bits, I don't recall any time when they themselves caused any trace damage with them. They come in all sizes, so there are both smaller ones if you need precision, as well as larger ones if you have a wide swath that you need to clean up quickly. Might want to get yourself a set of those, they aren't very expensive.
The grinding bit I admit was far to harsh. The damage was mostly limited to the side of the 244 with the most extensive battery corrosion but I'm 100% sure the damage wasn't as bad as it ended up being.
I'd never seen anyone using a dremel on a PCB like I did here, but I understand necroware has shown it in the past and had some success with rubber bits. I'll see about getting a few of them and try it on the next one.
I wouldn't have done this if it was someone else's board but since it is mine I didn't mind using it as a test.
Epictronics has started using a rubber tip of some sort on a dremel like tool recently for when he repairs some boards. He finds it quite effective compared to using other methods :)
Not familiar with his work but I'll take a look. Seems I'm last to the table with this idea and I picked the wrong tip 😅
@@CRG The video is called "486 VLB board found at Computer Reset. Power rail and keyboard circuit repair" and it's pretty horrific damage that he repairs.
As for the damage you may have done, it's a learning process and ultimately the board works once again :)
Power sneeze!
🤧
Are those yellow caps near the chips VCC tantalums by any chance? The recap kits never include these.
No, they are just ceramic decoupling caps. They don't need to be changed if you're doing a recap.
@@CRG imagine replacing dozens of the little yellow caps lol😅
Genuine question from someone just learning: is there a reason you didn't run the bodge wires from/to the vias rather than using the damaged traces? (Like I said, I'm no expert, just curious)
Running bodge wires between vias is certainly an easier way of doing it and can work but bear in mind that sometimes in PCB design traces are routed not only to get from A to B but done so to aid it signal timing. If you were to for example lengthen or shorten a trace with a bodge wire by any great amount you might affect this and cause system instability. All that said for something like the Amiga running at 7mhz it probably isn't much of an issue but that's my theory behind it anyway. I also find it easier to follow were the repair is needed rather than trying to trace back to vias. Patching onto the traces is simple enough, all you need to good flux, a little bit of solder and a smaller tip than I was using.
@@CRG Thank you for the helpful answer 😁
Hi what's your IC tester ? please link
Mateeeeeee watching that dremel was painful 🤣but you have gotta try out new methods or we would never learn anything new!
If we don't make mistakes we don't learn but I can't help but get the feeling this is my paperclip moment 😅
:)
🙂
WD-40 is not the best choice for electronics ...
Only 2.0 and not 2.04 Roms?
It's wd-40 branded contact cleaner
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wft pmsl :)
It was a silly skit 😂
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