Some of the most genuinely useful, valuable, educative and productive videos on the internet here. Always a pleasure to watch and equally fun to understand and try, in some cases, to replicate. Keep it up Sir.
I have picked up a few old drills from thrift shops etc for next to nothing. usually the motors work but the batteries need to be heavily cycled. however they are great to make either electric bicycles (literally use a metal hose clamp to clamp the drill chuck in contact with the tire rim) , small boat motors (in a pvc pipe), and windturbines. most drills have some variant of the 775 motor in them. you can buy them cheaper in a broken or old drill at a thrift or yard sale for about $3 than buying them new online plus you often get some salvagable nicd or nickel metal hydride batteries which will come back to life after mulitple deep cyclings. everyone wants li ion drills now so they are chucking away tons of the old drills! the REALLY nice thing about the old drills is you can keep them right in the case and use them by simply putting a couple of wires to the exposed metal contacts that usually exist in the handle where the battery would slide in and they are always dc motors which are SO easy to work with. and if you put a plumbers snake in the chuck you can attach a boat propellar or fan or anything to the drill as either a thruster or a generator! people greatly underestimate the pwoer of these little motors you get often get for nothing. this guy from cambodia makes incredibly fast boats using a few of these motors put in a row and ganged together(also amazingly simply fiberglass construction technique) ruclips.net/video/O3NDHZ5qOr8/видео.html
The capacitor adjacent to the switch at the beginning of the video is for interference suppression - start capacitors are only used in single phase induction motors, and aren't required in brushed motors...
As usual.... fun, informative helpful. I finally understand why the motor needs a to be connected to a battery or super capacitor in order to generate electricity. Thank you.
Thanks Robert. You should be able to self-start that alternator by making use of the initial residual magnetism in the core, and feeding back some of the initially tiny current from the stator via a current limiting resistor. No rectification is needed. The alternator will be generating rough DC, because of the commutator being used. Output voltage and power will ramp up over the first few seconds. We did that routinely with alternators which had no permanent magnets in them, back in the 70's. It was an old idea even then.
Universal motors are great, I've taken universal motors out of weed whackers and converted them to 2/2 Switched Reluctance Motors. It requires some grinding to shape the rotor core accordingly but these motors have been true to their name. I have a video of it on my channel, but it mostly focuses on waveforms and circuits rather than the motor conversion. Thanks for sharing!
This is exactly the next video I was hoping for since, I followed your advice and tore appart a recently defective hand blender to find a 200w dc brushes motor inside. I’d like to switch it around to turn it into a generator for a small Tesla inspired project.
Robert Murray-Smith not sure yet. If it works, it may be patentable, so video would have to wait until patent paperwork is sent in. Otherwise would be happy to share a video of my plan.
I was going to make same comment. Revisit your test and measure with a dc meter the output of the rotor. The brushes will be rectifying the alternating current from the rotor. A universal motor is a dc motor. When run on a.c. the brushes convert the a.c. to dc so same applies when used as a generator.
@@ThinkingandTinkering In fact,. Brushes and comutator cant act as diode,. But, brushes are always on winding where is same polarity as was on winding before. When comutator rotates, it continuously switches windings in rotor. So every time brushes are on same polarity :) AND, stator winding can be conected in parallel or serial or semi paralel with rotor. So you can make different types of dynamo system. Every type with different VA characteristic.
Can you apply DC to the rotor, and then have different connection options for the AC from the two stator coils? Like series, parallel or a centre tap (so you only need two diodes instead of four)
some day i hope you can get a volt meter that you can split screen with, but none the less you always give great demos of what others could try and find out themselves.
Because they are commutated, universal motors run as DC generators not AC. I think your voltmeter on AC is reading only the ripple voltage. You should be getting around 12v DC. no need for capacitor or bridge rectifier.
Universal serie motors as in drills are self starting. I've used these as generators in some experiments as point of faillure. They stop or burn when overloaded. Nice thing to know.. the handcrancked generator that cylon in battlestar galactica powered and you see at army surplus shops also has a series commutor motor-generator in it.
Thanks a lot for the knowlege? I have a question about the yellow little capacitor. You mentioned that it is a starting cap. Do you mean it is like the starting caps in induction motors?? I learn somewhere on youtube that its role is only to suppress electrical noise. Would you please explain??
Robert, I laughed so hard through this video. That darn door! All the skills you have and you haven't managed to silence it yet. 😂😂😂😅😅😅😂😂😂❤❤😊❤❤ I find it funny because... I do the same exact thing. Wonder sometimes if it is because we enjoy a rickety door in a good storm.❤❤😂😂😅😅😊😊
Universal motors don't have start capacitors, that's an interference suppression capacitor Also, you should have been getting a bigger difference than .1v with the battery, which leads me to believe you parallelled the fields wrong For series, you just connect the wires that went to the brushes together, but for parallel, brush wire from one coil to feed wire of the other, same wiith the other coil. To make it easier, you could have extended all 4 field wires outside the case so you could easily swap them. I'm also wondering if you had the meter set to AC and getting a DC output.
This question/observation about the relationship of the four possible terminals stemming from the field/stator wires, and how they could/should be wired or rewired is the most underaddressed, confusing part of this UM to Gen hack (in Murray-Smith's and other demos)...here we can hear OP doing something with the field coils with a battery to determine polarity, and thus how to wire, but it is anyone' s guess what he is actually connecting to what and why not being able to see...(something about a compass and a blue wire)So here your comment suggests that for a paralell wiring (increased current), one should take one of the wires from one of brush terminals and splice? / connect it with the feed wire of the other coil, vice versa, so basically an X config...which begs question then if we do this, whether our two generator output terminals would then need to come out from our two splice loctions, ie a pigtail near each the brush terminals, or should they be near the feed terminals, or one of each? Furthermore, the assumption that the brushes still need to be re- installed to complete the circuit in the converted generator is correct? Or can they be discarded? Thanks to any, all who can shed light on this.
@@TheSiamerican your 'x config' with pigtails is correct You also need to feed the brushes with some power If you take the output from the field coils, you need a rotating magnet to excite them the rotor is the magnet once power is applied, the rotor voltage can be adjusted to vary the output power, which is basically how a car alternator works.
One of the most fascinating and relaxing videos on You Tube. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. "Our attitude towards ourselves should be 'to be satiable in learning' and towards others 'to be tireless in teaching,'" Mao Zedong
Sorry banal question, but what are those grills behind you for? Very inspiring by the way. I want to make a wind turbine preferably a VAWT smallish but enough to do what a 100 watt solar will do to help with my 12 volt system or lighting during the less sunny winter months. What motor would u be ideal for that.?
I wanted to say is that universal motors do not use start capacitors that capacitor is used to filter the little imperfection spikes that the motor generates
The rotor in a universal motor is called the armature. And the scotch yoke doesn't turn reciprocating motion into up-and-down motion, it converts rotary motion into reciprocating motion! Interesting, though!
Well my uncle threw away his Makita chop saw, so I'm going to use it for something...it has a little gear up thing on there, the motor turns 4.5 times faster than the blade did...I'm going to glue a small magnet to the end of the shaft, but also supply a small voltage to the armature thru the disconnected brushes...I'll connect the field for the output...it's better I think to do it that way, so the output can be controlled by the input which is slight anyways...its a 115 volt 12 amp motor so I thought it should work all right as a small wind generator...and with the little round button magnet on the shaft, it should start straightaway, I'd think...just a theory...I'm building another one with an old 1/12 horsepower gearmotor from a very old garage door opener, that has nice bearings and I'm drilling holes for 8 ring magnets, N 52s, 3/4 inch diameter, for the stator...each has 11.8 pounds pull and I'm stacking 2 at each of the four poles so itll be 23.6 pounds pull on each of the four winding cores...this motor had a start winding so I should get two voltages ...anyhow I thought I'd try both types of motors ...I always do things somewhat differently than most anyone else, but nobody has ever accused me of copying lol
I used 18v to energize the coil, get 1.5v back. Tried adding a capacitor, it did nothing. As soon as I remove the power no charge is maintained in the coils. Connecting output to input to try and maintain the cap charge does nothing either. What am I doing wrong?!
Robert, instead of powering the field coils, could you just wire a motor-run capacitor across them? It works with a 3-phase induction motor, and turns it into a generator...
@@ThinkingandTinkering It's a different principle... You can use the cap alone to provide reactive power - no rectifier... Here's a vid about it - from a quick search... (there may be better...) He's using a uni-motor, so it does work on 2-phase... ruclips.net/video/njNevoMY1To/видео.html
I have some huge motors from forklifts, they are like 10kw at 48v, they are brushed series wound, I got them for a electric car conversion project, but this is like 1950's tech, and salvaged ev motors would be lots more efficient, and powerful, so I was thinking of possibly using one to build a big micro hydroelectric generator, I have a spring I could dam up, and generate power when needed, I'm off grid, with solar power, and just over 25kwh battery, I'm looking to build a charger similar to a mppt, to buck or boost, the variable voltage, from the generator, a solar controller will keep the generator voltage pulled down, not allowing it to spin up go full power, I'm not going to connect it to lithium batteries lime wind turbines are to lead acid batteries, simply burning off power when the battery is full, awesome ideas you are giving me! Thanks!
Long ago my dad game me a self exciting generator from a Grumman TBF Avenger, lost it when I lost a piece of land [along with a lot of other valuable bits] and my dad told me that without a resistor, it would build up enough voltage to destroy its self, so the makers of the plane [Grumman] had added some carbon resistor piles into the system to keep the voltage from getting too high. My dad had used this generator for many years as a welder, simply driving it with a 7hp Kholer engine, and a long piece of nichrome wire held to a 2x4 by a few nails. I remember seeing the nichrome wire glowing orange hot, sagging and burning interesting patterns into the board while he welded. [sigh] >longing for happier days
here is a crazy idea. take your air energy receiver antennae circuit froma video or so ago and bury the carbon felt antenna in the ground..maybe first dry and then later with saltwater. . leave the rest of the antennae circuit above ground as normal. the air harvesting circuit in reverse essentially.The thought being that it is the earth and the ionosphere that are the actual best conductors and the AIR is actually the insulator of the giant spherical capacitor know as earth. So you might get a lot MORE energy harvesting from the earth than from the air. Remember electrical generating stations typically have their ground return through the earth not to mention the natural tellaluric currents etc. might be an interesting variation on your earth battery test you did. maybe use a small piece of carbon felt and see what happens.
Hi sir ..it was a valuablepractical session u gave us .. I have doubt on my own project If I need both torque and speed for a small size motor what type of motor or how to make one like that and what capacity does the battery should be Pls help me in this
A universal motor is a DC motor already, and any DC motor can be a generator just spin it , I used to run mains drills on 240v DC when testing field controllers
I`ve tried most of them, and some blenders motor, also. And, I was thinking about using a voltage regulator from motorcycle, never did though. Better use a bldc for a generator, or microwave over`s plate motor.
Hi, I saw some old videos about you paper batteries. Is this project still going on? Something to buy? Would be interested if there is something better to change my AA or CR123A batteries for. But could find something about it.
Hi Rob. Im not sure it could be done but would a supercapacitor or a bunch of them make a jump starter for a car it would make a good video and a kit you could add to the shop. Im not sure it could be done it seems it would be lighter than a battery jumper and would charge up quicker.
yes . You can also totally replace a battery if you have no parasitic loads. The best system I can think of actually would incorporate a 12v to 14v solar panel as well.
........it has been Robert's goal to get supercapacitor batteries onto markets as actual replacements for lead acids , , would have to be for older car models cos of the latest BMS annoyances in recent model vehicles. There exist supercapacitor boosters on the market for starting vehicles and they in fact charge up over several minutes from a depleted battery to kick a motor to life after receipt of the quick charge from depleted battery. .... it's looking like BMS on new cars might cause problems if a lead acid is replaced with a capacitor as the main battery. The new cars have to be informed through a scan tool if batteries are replaced these days . Everything is engineered to be a pain .
I use a cheap 18W 24V solar panel and six 3000F 2.7V capacitors in series to make a 16V 500F capacitor bank for my car. The solar panel staves off the self-discharge of the caps and the drain of the car alarm system and computer. Each supercap cell has a balance circuit that switches on at 2.6V and bleeds excess power on a sunny day through 50W power resistors to keep cells below the decomposition voltage of the electrolyte. Even after a week of cloudy weather, I'll have 12V across the caps, which is more than enough to start the car (I've measured that the starter consumes just over 2100J to turn over the engine) Don't know about newer cars, but my 2009 Chevy Cobalt has no problem not having lead-acid. I've also amusingly started the vehicle at just above 10V, but of course, the car does run a little poorly until about after 10 seconds when the alternator finishes charging the caps up to a nice running voltage. Jumping other cars is also quite nice too, takes all the pressure off the running alternator. There really is no reason to use huge lead acids.
I would like to see someone build a generator that will generate longitudinal current instead of alternating current based on Eric Dollard's LMD circuit as one would generate more power than usual. If someone is interested, google "Longitudinal Waves and Transverse Waves tests by Jean-Louis Naudin" for LMD circuit diagram to modify for use in generator. Use TriField meter to measure whether you have longitudinal current or not, electric field and magnetic field are in same direction in longitudinal current as you can see in this video "Replication of Eric Dollard's Analog Computer". For Eric Dollard's video on longitudinal current, google "Transverse & Longitudinal Electric Waves and Tesla’s Longitudinal Electricity".
I find this really interesting and it's the sort of project I'd like to conduct. However, your presentation is really just preaching to the choir - any electrical tradesman would know what you're talking about, but a novice is completely lost by the lack of detail in your presentation. A slight move towards the basics would be helpful.
Now that we have the basic idea, what we need now is to get a car Alternator and find the best motor to drive it with, and hopefully there's enough current left over to charge batteries! Even if it's half an amp at 12V, that's the same thing as 1amp at 12V for 12 hours because it doesn't stop providing! And if that's the case, I wouldn't mind having 6 of them running and helping keep the solar battery system going on cloudy days... You really can't complain if it actually gives any current up and over what it needs to run itself, it's maintenance free and it would keep giving the good stuff even if it's a very small amount, but it's possible that it might work well, considering that it can run a car without a battery, albeit it's converting electrical energy to mechanical energy and the process continues as long as there's fuel for the mechanical part of the equation.. but an efficient electric motor, if possible powered by PWM or some other method, just might be able to work... We can assume that everything has been tried or we can assume that everything has been tried but someone has missed something somewhere that is not common knowledge and way different to our current understanding. Someone somewhere might make the mistake that everyone else was looking for but didn't find it... So keep experimenting, the next breakthrough lies with the person tinkering...
@@ThinkingandTinkering i like your videos btw. Been watching for years. Look up Gerard Morins videos about the washing machine pump idea. Ive played around with it some and it works. Be worth looking into.
can you make a motor using graphene or carbon ink? with that level of customization, i speculate you can really hone the fields to the most efficient architecture, maybe create dynamic fields and possibly better deal with heat/resistance. but im asking ignorantly, you guys know better than me. huge thanks everyone
it's going to have a pretty high resistance if you just try winding it - really if you want to use graphene you have to rethink the architecture - but good question mate
...and having now watched the rest of the video, I've another comment: once the generator has been run as such, there ought to be enough residual magnetism in its core for the external kick-start of applied voltage to be unnecessary - that's the way many small commercially available generators work. Occassionally it is necessary to apply a few volts (often 12V) across the outputs if the generator hasn't been used for a long time, or alternatively remove any load attached to the outputs before starting the generator. How long is too long for the residual magetism to work? - I don't know, as it will vary by generator :-)
What is that damn noise in the background? Anyway if the pole of the field coil has residual magnetism (as you demonstrated), you should be able to turn it into a self excited shunt generator simply by wiring the field coil across the armature and completely eliminate the need for any separate excitation.
Military officer commending a special forces unit, quote "ANY FARK WIT CAN BRING ME MORE PROBLEMS, WHAT I NEED ARE PEOPLE WHO BRING AT LEAST ONE POTENTIAL SOLUTION WITH EVERY PROBLEM, otherwise MY WRATH will fall heavily on the TIME WASTER with the selfish, useless mind.
Tried this as I'm looking for a generator for the 3d printer competition, on an old Moulinex coffee grinder motor that still worked - got more generation out of the self-excited configuration (without battery, just with the coils wired in parallel to the brushes) than with the battery (6v)! A bit over 1v vs less than half a volt. Didn't use rectifier having seen comments pointing out that it's unnecessary.
seriously though , you appear strained and deserving a rest maybe. Mr RMS please consider a rest Sir. Brilliance is a hairs breath from madness. i hope you are not wearing the weight of the energy crisis on your shoulders . You ARE inspirational and who really cares what anyone reckons , sitting on their pontificating couch? even if my comment or observation is valid i understand that no educated folks like yourself could reply. MORE POWER TO YOU. YOU DARE BE POSITIVE. REBEL. MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU And MAY YOUR FAMILY COME FIRST Sir. (there will always be detractors, both ignorant and educated) Reference Gallilao, Tesla etc. Please dont get yourself lost out here mate. Respect and MANY THANKS.
@@dogwalker666 PFFTTT thats what the good man apologises for in the beginning of the infovid. hahahah he looks knackered and the wind outside is howling. how lucky are we? i am too stupid to know, however i suspect VERY VERY LUCKY.
I enjoy your videos but what the hell is all the noise in the background sounds like somebody has stolen the vehicle and stripping it down for parts you must be running a chop shop on the side over there
THE BOSTON MASS | LOST IN JAPAN | WORKOUT AT HIDE'S POWERHOUSE GYM TOKYO Ep.2 i played the above link from you while playing this video and heard this vid? get a hearing/OCD check brother?
Some of the most genuinely useful, valuable, educative and productive videos on the internet here. Always a pleasure to watch and equally fun to understand and try, in some cases, to replicate. Keep it up Sir.
GROUSE . HEAR HEAR !
Wow, thank you mate
cheers mate
I have picked up a few old drills from thrift shops etc for next to nothing. usually the motors work but the batteries need to be heavily cycled. however they are great to make either electric bicycles (literally use a metal hose clamp to clamp the drill chuck in contact with the tire rim) , small boat motors (in a pvc pipe), and windturbines. most drills have some variant of the 775 motor in them. you can buy them cheaper in a broken or old drill at a thrift or yard sale for about $3 than buying them new online plus you often get some salvagable nicd or nickel metal hydride batteries which will come back to life after mulitple deep cyclings. everyone wants li ion drills now so they are chucking away tons of the old drills!
the REALLY nice thing about the old drills is you can keep them right in the case and use them by simply putting a couple of wires to the exposed metal contacts that usually exist in the handle where the battery would slide in and they are always dc motors which are SO easy to work with. and if you put a plumbers snake in the chuck you can attach a boat propellar or fan or anything to the drill as either a thruster or a generator!
people greatly underestimate the pwoer of these little motors you get often get for nothing. this guy from cambodia makes incredibly fast boats using a few of these motors put in a row and ganged together(also amazingly simply fiberglass construction technique) ruclips.net/video/O3NDHZ5qOr8/видео.html
that is a really nice post mate - thanks for taking the time - of to watch that video
The capacitor adjacent to the switch at the beginning of the video is for interference suppression - start capacitors are only used in single phase induction motors, and aren't required in brushed motors...
cheers mate
As usual.... fun, informative helpful. I finally understand why the motor needs a to be connected to a battery or super capacitor in order to generate electricity. Thank you.
glad i helped mate - cheers
Thanks Robert. You should be able to self-start that alternator by making use of the initial residual magnetism in the core, and feeding back some of the initially tiny current from the stator via a current limiting resistor. No rectification is needed. The alternator will be generating rough DC, because of the commutator being used. Output voltage and power will ramp up over the first few seconds. We did that routinely with alternators which had no permanent magnets in them, back in the 70's. It was an old idea even then.
Quite right, it's already DC coming out of the commutator.
Universal motors are great, I've taken universal motors out of weed whackers and converted them to 2/2 Switched Reluctance Motors. It requires some grinding to shape the rotor core accordingly but these motors have been true to their name. I have a video of it on my channel, but it mostly focuses on waveforms and circuits rather than the motor conversion. Thanks for sharing!
cheers mate
This is exactly the next video I was hoping for since, I followed your advice and tore appart a recently defective hand blender to find a 200w dc brushes motor inside. I’d like to switch it around to turn it into a generator for a small Tesla inspired project.
Sorry brushless motors are actually servo motors unless they probably dont work.
The Dog Walker sorry, that was a typo, I meant Brushed motor, not brushless. 👍🏻
@@0sailing951 oh in that case it should work no problem 🤗
awesome mate - video too?
Robert Murray-Smith not sure yet. If it works, it may be patentable, so video would have to wait until patent paperwork is sent in. Otherwise would be happy to share a video of my plan.
Rob, you dont need rectifier,.. that brushes act as rectifier. You made dynamo,. :)
I was going to make same comment. Revisit your test and measure with a dc meter the output of the rotor. The brushes will be rectifying the alternating current from the rotor. A universal motor is a dc motor. When run on a.c. the brushes convert the a.c. to dc so same applies when used as a generator.
cheers mate - I didn't know that - I do now and off to retry it lol
makes sense to me - we all learn on here - it's awesome
@@ThinkingandTinkering In fact,. Brushes and comutator cant act as diode,. But, brushes are always on winding where is same polarity as was on winding before. When comutator rotates, it continuously switches windings in rotor. So every time brushes are on same polarity :) AND, stator winding can be conected in parallel or serial or semi paralel with rotor. So you can make different types of dynamo system. Every type with different VA characteristic.
Can you apply DC to the rotor, and then have different connection options for the AC from the two stator coils? Like series, parallel or a centre tap (so you only need two diodes instead of four)
My favorite youtube channel
cheers mate
Just one "minor" detail: You get DC output.
The brushes rectify by commutating so you get the same polarity out, as you input into the field windings.
cheers mate
some day i hope you can get a volt meter that you can split screen with, but none the less you always give great demos of what others could try and find out themselves.
for sure mate - if there is a reason to show the numbers I try to do so - but here - well it is so simple to run this up yourself tbh
The same as Aviation dynomotor used in old aircraft radios to generate the high voltage for th vacuum tubes
is that right - interesting - cheers mate
Because they are commutated, universal motors run as DC generators not AC. I think your voltmeter on AC is reading only the ripple voltage.
You should be getting around 12v DC. no need for capacitor or bridge rectifier.
You're right. It's already a series dynamo.
All you need to do is connect the field coil across the commutator output and it will generate DC. This is how the old generators on old cars work.
cheers mate
The Field coil also provides a convenient point to add an integrated regulator
awesome
Love this you are one of my new heroes.
Universal serie motors as in drills are self starting. I've used these as generators in some experiments as point of faillure. They stop or burn when overloaded. Nice thing to know.. the handcrancked generator that cylon in battlestar galactica powered and you see at army surplus shops also has a series commutor motor-generator in it.
cheers mate
Thanks a lot for the knowlege? I have a question about the yellow little capacitor. You mentioned that it is a starting cap. Do you mean it is like the starting caps in induction motors?? I learn somewhere on youtube that its role is only to suppress electrical noise. Would you please explain??
you can make an autostart, by putting a diode in series with the battery, so it will feed as long as the voltage is low enough.
nice idea mate - I suppose though I don't really know
Robert, I laughed so hard through this video. That darn door! All the skills you have and you haven't managed to silence it yet. 😂😂😂😅😅😅😂😂😂❤❤😊❤❤ I find it funny because... I do the same exact thing. Wonder sometimes if it is because we enjoy a rickety door in a good storm.❤❤😂😂😅😅😊😊
Hah! Rob's timing is perfect. There's a Universal Motor from an old electric mitre saw sat on my workbench looking very sorry for itself.
Project!
lol - cool mate
Universal motors don't have start capacitors, that's an interference suppression capacitor
Also, you should have been getting a bigger difference than .1v with the battery, which leads me to believe you parallelled the fields wrong
For series, you just connect the wires that went to the brushes together, but for parallel, brush wire from one coil to feed wire of the other, same wiith the other coil.
To make it easier, you could have extended all 4 field wires outside the case so you could easily swap them.
I'm also wondering if you had the meter set to AC and getting a DC output.
This question/observation about the relationship of the four possible terminals stemming from the field/stator wires, and how they could/should be wired or rewired is the most underaddressed, confusing part of this UM to Gen hack (in Murray-Smith's and other demos)...here we can hear OP doing something with the field coils with a battery to determine polarity, and thus how to wire, but it is anyone' s guess what he is actually connecting to what and why not being able to see...(something about a compass and a blue wire)So here your comment suggests that for a paralell wiring (increased current), one should take one of the wires from one of brush terminals and splice? / connect it with the feed wire of the other coil, vice versa, so basically an X config...which begs question then if we do this, whether our two generator output terminals would then need to come out from our two splice loctions, ie a pigtail near each the brush terminals, or should they be near the feed terminals, or one of each? Furthermore, the assumption that the brushes still need to be re- installed to complete the circuit in the converted generator is correct? Or can they be discarded? Thanks to any, all who can shed light on this.
@@TheSiamerican your 'x config' with pigtails is correct
You also need to feed the brushes with some power
If you take the output from the field coils, you need a rotating magnet to excite them the rotor is the magnet once power is applied, the rotor voltage can be adjusted to vary the output power, which is basically how a car alternator works.
It's like a car alternator, by adding a capacitor and 3 phase bridge rectifier you can achieve the same thing.
Have you tried it backwards,? with the stator running the AC side and the rotor doing the DC? Or do I have that reversed?
Hey great I found it! I had just commented in your wind turbine video about using a washing machine too, and here it is - perfect!
Wonderful, consice, informative and useful 👍🏻
Hello Mr Murray can you please tell me how many amps a washing machine motor uses when it's converted to a DC motor
Great ! If You use neodymium magnets instead powering coils , that will generate more energy o less ?
more - but it costs more and is more difficult to do
One of the most fascinating and relaxing videos on You Tube. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. "Our attitude towards ourselves should be 'to be satiable in learning' and towards others 'to be tireless in teaching,'" Mao Zedong
Sorry banal question, but what are those grills behind you for? Very inspiring by the way. I want to make a wind turbine preferably a VAWT smallish but enough to do what a 100 watt solar will do to help with my 12 volt system or lighting during the less sunny winter months. What motor would u be ideal for that.?
I wanted to say is that universal motors do not use start capacitors that capacitor is used to filter the little imperfection spikes that the motor generates
I like the fact that you showed the rectifier and capacitor. That is exactly what I would had done. Love it mate.
cheers mate - though I got it wrong - arrantly the output is already dc - oops lol
I wish you were my neighbor. I'd be borrowing all kinds of stuff and bringing it back slightly later than you anticipated.
It's not a start capacitor. Like what's been pointed out it's a universal AC and DC motor. It's spark suppression for the switch.
The rotor in a universal motor is called the armature. And the scotch yoke doesn't turn reciprocating motion into up-and-down motion, it converts rotary motion into reciprocating motion! Interesting, though!
This stuff is great.
Dude you are awesome!!!
Very inreresting video. I've played with those type of motors. They are very nice things to play with. Thumbs up mate!
cheers mate and yes they are fun and nicely made
Well done Robert Great Video Thanks Man
glad you liked it mate - cheers
You could also use a permanent magnet as a kickstarter..
Ceiling fan motor with some adjustments would work well.
Checkout the motors in the direct drive washing machines 😍 3 phases
will do mate cheers
Well my uncle threw away his Makita chop saw, so I'm going to use it for something...it has a little gear up thing on there, the motor turns 4.5 times faster than the blade did...I'm going to glue a small magnet to the end of the shaft, but also supply a small voltage to the armature thru the disconnected brushes...I'll connect the field for the output...it's better I think to do it that way, so the output can be controlled by the input which is slight anyways...its a 115 volt 12 amp motor so I thought it should work all right as a small wind generator...and with the little round button magnet on the shaft, it should start straightaway, I'd think...just a theory...I'm building another one with an old 1/12 horsepower gearmotor from a very old garage door opener, that has nice bearings and I'm drilling holes for 8 ring magnets, N 52s, 3/4 inch diameter, for the stator...each has 11.8 pounds pull and I'm stacking 2 at each of the four poles so itll be 23.6 pounds pull on each of the four winding cores...this motor had a start winding so I should get two voltages ...anyhow I thought I'd try both types of motors ...I always do things somewhat differently than most anyone else, but nobody has ever accused me of copying lol
I meant rotor not stator...oops
Another awesome video! Thanks....
Glad you enjoyed it! cheers mate
I used 18v to energize the coil, get 1.5v back. Tried adding a capacitor, it did nothing. As soon as I remove the power no charge is maintained in the coils. Connecting output to input to try and maintain the cap charge does nothing either. What am I doing wrong?!
these coils are really wound for 110 - 230 v mate try 30-50v - plus -I got something wrong - out put is dc not ac
Robert, instead of powering the field coils, could you just wire a motor-run capacitor across them?
It works with a 3-phase induction motor, and turns it into a generator...
in the kick starting it at the end - that is basically what I did mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering
It's a different principle...
You can use the cap alone to provide reactive power - no rectifier...
Here's a vid about it - from a quick search...
(there may be better...)
He's using a uni-motor, so it does work on 2-phase...
ruclips.net/video/njNevoMY1To/видео.html
I have some huge motors from forklifts, they are like 10kw at 48v, they are brushed series wound, I got them for a electric car conversion project, but this is like 1950's tech, and salvaged ev motors would be lots more efficient, and powerful, so I was thinking of possibly using one to build a big micro hydroelectric generator, I have a spring I could dam up, and generate power when needed, I'm off grid, with solar power, and just over 25kwh battery, I'm looking to build a charger similar to a mppt, to buck or boost, the variable voltage, from the generator, a solar controller will keep the generator voltage pulled down, not allowing it to spin up go full power, I'm not going to connect it to lithium batteries lime wind turbines are to lead acid batteries, simply burning off power when the battery is full, awesome ideas you are giving me! Thanks!
awesome projects mate - thanks for the post
Universal motors, they run the universe!
absolutely mate - lol
Long ago my dad game me a self exciting generator from a Grumman TBF Avenger, lost it when I lost a piece of land [along with a lot of other valuable bits] and my dad told me that without a resistor, it would build up enough voltage to destroy its self, so the makers of the plane [Grumman] had added some carbon resistor piles into the system to keep the voltage from getting too high.
My dad had used this generator for many years as a welder, simply driving it with a 7hp Kholer engine, and a long piece of nichrome wire held to a 2x4 by a few nails.
I remember seeing the nichrome wire glowing orange hot, sagging and burning interesting patterns into the board while he welded.
[sigh] >longing for happier days
Could you mechanically add a dynamo in series with the motor, so when the shaft turns the dynamo excites the motor?
or a simple dc motor of the rpm/voltage you are looking for coupled onto the shaft.
yeah - but you would still need to input every
nice stuff man
Appreciate it
TY
here is a crazy idea. take your air energy receiver antennae circuit froma video or so ago and bury the carbon felt antenna in the ground..maybe first dry and then later with saltwater. . leave the rest of the antennae circuit above ground as normal. the air harvesting circuit in reverse essentially.The thought being that it is the earth and the ionosphere that are the actual best conductors and the AIR is actually the insulator of the giant spherical capacitor know as earth. So you might get a lot MORE energy harvesting from the earth than from the air. Remember electrical generating stations typically have their ground return through the earth not to mention the natural tellaluric currents etc. might be an interesting variation on your earth battery test you did. maybe use a small piece of carbon felt and see what happens.
nice one mate
Could u give us wiring sckematic please
Hi sir ..it was a valuablepractical session u gave us ..
I have doubt on my own project
If I need both torque and speed for a small size motor what type of motor or how to make one like that and what capacity does the battery should be
Pls help me in this
......... Question is too vague to give you assistance. Is it for a model RC aircraft or ride- on lawnmower ?
no idea mate - sorry
@@charlesdickens6706 it was for a remote car ...in a bigger size and weight
@@ThinkingandTinkering no problem sir thank you for the reply ✌️
A universal motor is a DC motor already, and any DC motor can be a generator just spin it , I used to run mains drills on 240v DC when testing field controllers
yep.. its rough on the switches. but works fine.
cheers mate
I`ve tried most of them, and some blenders motor, also. And, I was thinking about using a voltage regulator from motorcycle, never did though. Better use a bldc for a generator, or microwave over`s plate motor.
Hi, I saw some old videos about you paper batteries. Is this project still going on? Something to buy? Would be interested if there is something better to change my AA or CR123A batteries for. But could find something about it.
the project is ongoing mate - working on a jv - but like everything postponed by the virus
@@ThinkingandTinkering good to hear. do you have a website?
Hi Rob. Im not sure it could be done but would a supercapacitor or a bunch of them make a jump starter for a car it would make a good video and a kit you could add to the shop. Im not sure it could be done it seems it would be lighter than a battery jumper and would charge up quicker.
yes . You can also totally replace a battery if you have no parasitic loads. The best system I can think of actually would incorporate a 12v to 14v solar panel as well.
........it has been Robert's goal to get supercapacitor batteries onto markets as actual replacements for lead acids , , would have to be for older car models cos of the latest BMS annoyances in recent model vehicles. There exist supercapacitor boosters on the market for starting vehicles and they in fact charge up over several minutes from a depleted battery to kick a motor to life after receipt of the quick charge from depleted battery.
.... it's looking like BMS on new cars might cause problems if a lead acid is replaced with a capacitor as the main battery. The new cars have to be informed through a scan tool if batteries are replaced these days . Everything is engineered to be a pain .
it would do the job just fine mate - there are a few how to vids that give nice details
I use a cheap 18W 24V solar panel and six 3000F 2.7V capacitors in series to make a 16V 500F capacitor bank for my car. The solar panel staves off the self-discharge of the caps and the drain of the car alarm system and computer. Each supercap cell has a balance circuit that switches on at 2.6V and bleeds excess power on a sunny day through 50W power resistors to keep cells below the decomposition voltage of the electrolyte. Even after a week of cloudy weather, I'll have 12V across the caps, which is more than enough to start the car (I've measured that the starter consumes just over 2100J to turn over the engine)
Don't know about newer cars, but my 2009 Chevy Cobalt has no problem not having lead-acid. I've also amusingly started the vehicle at just above 10V, but of course, the car does run a little poorly until about after 10 seconds when the alternator finishes charging the caps up to a nice running voltage.
Jumping other cars is also quite nice too, takes all the pressure off the running alternator. There really is no reason to use huge lead acids.
Why is it that you use Comercial capacitors instead of the ones you are capable of making?
I would like to see someone build a generator that will generate longitudinal current instead of alternating current based on Eric Dollard's LMD circuit as one would generate more power than usual. If someone is interested, google "Longitudinal Waves and Transverse Waves tests by Jean-Louis Naudin" for LMD circuit diagram to modify for use in generator. Use TriField meter to measure whether you have longitudinal current or not, electric field and magnetic field are in same direction in longitudinal current as you can see in this video "Replication of Eric Dollard's Analog Computer". For Eric Dollard's video on longitudinal current, google "Transverse & Longitudinal Electric Waves and Tesla’s Longitudinal Electricity".
ruclips.net/video/DFa-IymyWHM/видео.html
give it a go mate
I find this really interesting and it's the sort of project I'd like to conduct. However, your presentation is really just preaching to the choir - any electrical tradesman would know what you're talking about, but a novice is completely lost by the lack of detail in your presentation.
A slight move towards the basics would be helpful.
What is the noise on the background, Bob? Cats making/chasing one another, on the roof? Lol!
He said it was wind shaking the door!
Now that we have the basic idea, what we need now is to get a car Alternator and find the best motor to drive it with, and hopefully there's enough current left over to charge batteries! Even if it's half an amp at 12V, that's the same thing as 1amp at 12V for 12 hours because it doesn't stop providing!
And if that's the case, I wouldn't mind having 6 of them running and helping keep the solar battery system going on cloudy days... You really can't complain if it actually gives any current up and over what it needs to run itself, it's maintenance free and it would keep giving the good stuff even if it's a very small amount, but it's possible that it might work well, considering that it can run a car without a battery, albeit it's converting electrical energy to mechanical energy and the process continues as long as there's fuel for the mechanical part of the equation.. but an efficient electric motor, if possible powered by PWM or some other method, just might be able to work... We can assume that everything has been tried or we can assume that everything has been tried but someone has missed something somewhere that is not common knowledge and way different to our current understanding. Someone somewhere might make the mistake that everyone else was looking for but didn't find it...
So keep experimenting, the next breakthrough lies with the person tinkering...
Have you tried playing with a washing machine pump? Hundreds of volts and makes dead light bulbs light back up again
interesting idea mate
@@ThinkingandTinkering i like your videos btw. Been watching for years. Look up Gerard Morins videos about the washing machine pump idea. Ive played around with it some and it works. Be worth looking into.
can you make a motor using graphene or carbon ink? with that level of customization, i speculate you can really hone the fields to the most efficient architecture, maybe create dynamic fields and possibly better deal with heat/resistance. but im asking ignorantly, you guys know better than me.
huge thanks everyone
it's going to have a pretty high resistance if you just try winding it - really if you want to use graphene you have to rethink the architecture - but good question mate
There is even a simpler way. You take a drill you attach a small load to it and using another drill you spin the shaft backwards.
Love your videos but the guy making all the noise in background was making it hard for me to keep from telling him BE QUIET!! 😅👍
this is getting somewhere! ;) and its getting more interesting :)
cheers mate
...and having now watched the rest of the video, I've another comment: once the generator has been run as such, there ought to be enough residual magnetism in its core for the external kick-start of applied voltage to be unnecessary - that's the way many small commercially available generators work. Occassionally it is necessary to apply a few volts (often 12V) across the outputs if the generator hasn't been used for a long time, or alternatively remove any load attached to the outputs before starting the generator. How long is too long for the residual magetism to work? - I don't know, as it will vary by generator :-)
cheers mate
Couldn't see what the wires were doing
What is that damn noise in the background? Anyway if the pole of the field coil has residual magnetism (as you demonstrated), you should be able to turn it into a self excited shunt generator simply by wiring the field coil across the armature and completely eliminate the need for any separate excitation.
I hate when I miss place
my stripper. She gets lost so easily.
Isn't there usually a trail of clothes to follow. ;-)
lol
Military officer commending a special forces unit, quote "ANY FARK WIT CAN BRING ME MORE PROBLEMS, WHAT I NEED ARE PEOPLE WHO BRING AT LEAST ONE POTENTIAL SOLUTION WITH EVERY PROBLEM, otherwise MY WRATH will fall heavily on the TIME WASTER with the selfish, useless mind.
lol
I got a dryer motor in the garage, could be repurposed.
absolutely mate
Tried this as I'm looking for a generator for the 3d printer competition, on an old Moulinex coffee grinder motor that still worked - got more generation out of the self-excited configuration (without battery, just with the coils wired in parallel to the brushes) than with the battery (6v)! A bit over 1v vs less than half a volt. Didn't use rectifier having seen comments pointing out that it's unnecessary.
seriously though , you appear strained and deserving a rest maybe.
Mr RMS please consider a rest Sir.
Brilliance is a hairs breath from madness.
i hope you are not wearing the weight of the energy crisis on your shoulders .
You ARE inspirational and who really cares what anyone reckons , sitting on their pontificating couch?
even if my comment or observation is valid i understand that no educated folks like yourself could reply.
MORE POWER TO YOU.
YOU DARE BE POSITIVE.
REBEL.
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU And MAY YOUR FAMILY COME FIRST Sir.
(there will always be detractors, both ignorant and educated)
Reference Gallilao, Tesla etc.
Please dont get yourself lost out here mate.
Respect and MANY THANKS.
cheers mate - tanks for the thought
Washing machine motors in the United States are not universal they are induction and sometimes are three phase in some of the newer machines.
okay mate
Everyone talks about b-rings never the A-rings!,
lol
My bad the noise must be a bunch of zombies trying to get in through a roll-up door
dude, did you get the technical message or where you focused on the distraction noise?
That sounds like wind on a roller shutter door.
@@dogwalker666 PFFTTT
thats what the good man apologises for in the beginning of the infovid.
hahahah he looks knackered and the wind outside is howling.
how lucky are we?
i am too stupid to know, however i suspect VERY VERY LUCKY.
@@snoddyification my old work shop had them it could be deafening.
lol - can only apologise again - nothing i can do about the wind mate
I enjoy your videos but what the hell is all the noise in the background sounds like somebody has stolen the vehicle and stripping it down for parts you must be running a chop shop on the side over there
THE BOSTON MASS | LOST IN JAPAN | WORKOUT AT HIDE'S POWERHOUSE GYM TOKYO Ep.2
i played the above link from you while playing this video and heard this vid?
get a hearing/OCD check brother?
Its the wind against the unit door. Rob apologies for it at the start of the video.
the wind on the door mate - it can be a pain lol
So I need a broken jigsaw along with a working one, So that I can extract the motor with case from broken one... Sounds complicated