You can achieve some of these brighter verdigris hues with the Dirty Down product by adding water to it. Either mixed in the product during application, after application as it dries, or after it's dried.
Let the dirty down dry and then go in with a wet brush. You can move it around, expose some areas down to the copper. With water you can basically remove it all or push it into recesses if that is the effect you want. It is like activating oils with thinner. But only using water. The oils can be put on a piece of cardboard first to let some of the oil wick out, only like 5-10 minutes or so, then they will dry so much faster. Also heat and sunlight helps to cure them faster.
Thanks for all this info, I’ll potentially do a deeper test with each of them to show some more interesting ways to use them. Fantastic info in this comment thanks again
Ive spent the last few months doing skaven and beoming as intimate with aged copper as I can, and the worst thing i try and avoid that i see all the time on peoples models is having the verdigris be a single color or splotchy, the dirty down one fixes this- but so far my best method is varying all 3 of these, some over a stipped pattern underneath for heavier weathering- doing a darker green oil/somthing like corelia greenshade or a dark turquiose paint then using Nikal oxie to brighten small spots looks pretty nice.
Great video, I have all three of these (although which greens in oil paints I am not sure at the moment.). I never thought to layer them. Also curious how the Dirty Down would react to GW, since Dirty Down is water reactive…could be interesting instead of just water!
Thanks so much. I had no issues layering them with the dagger but I wasn’t really pulling any paint away to expose the underneath. (Runs to the printer to print a test model haha) I love playing around with these paints.
My favorite is dirt cheap craft paint (Apple Barrel seafoam) because it's low pigment density means it keeps some transparency when you add a watery layer into the recesses.
Owwww okay. I’ll have a look into this. Could be great for big scenery stuff as well if it’s super easy. Do you use on miniatures details as well like rivets and parts etc?
You can make oil paints dry much quicker by adding a siccative into them like an alkyd medium, depending on pigment it can take about a few hours to a day. It doesnt work super well with winton because of the low pigmentation and high wax content in those though.
Check your final cut check your hz in the audio and make sure it matches the 44.1 or 48k settings of the project and raw footage. Sometimes changes in the hz in the raw or project can speed or slow audio.
Wish you would’ve have tried The Army Painter Versigris, cuz I cant’t get that to look good for the life of me!? Tried thinning with the stabilizer, but I’m having very little success. Great vid nonetheless❤️
If you look at copper roofs, they are all completly "green", there are no streaks or patches. The house roofs in Copenhagen are 2-300 years old and are almost uniform green. Imagine a statue 1000 years old.
Not a fan of Dirty Down, too finnicky and needs varnishing or it just doesnt stand up to wargaming. Oils are great though, basically idiot proof. Which is good for me.
I'm sorry but I couldn't watch this video. I got almost dizzy from your camera constantly auto focusing. You need to set manual focus it's going to be a lot better than your camera trying to focus on your table.
You can achieve some of these brighter verdigris hues with the Dirty Down product by adding water to it. Either mixed in the product during application, after application as it dries, or after it's dried.
Amazing thank you I’ll pin this comment to the top to help out others!
Very interesting! This probably works with the rust effect too, right?
@@TheSilentW Yes! Also the product works different with higher contrast if you pre heat the surface and the bottle itself.
@@vicente8664 Thanks a lot!
I also find with the dirty down really lightly you will get a brighter color. I've found that adding water changes other properties of the product.
man, this gem of a video pops up the day after I finish my death guard...
Ah man! Well I hope it serves you well in your next miniature adventure 😅😂 god knows we all need more minis
Couldn't quite figure out Nihilikh Oxide or how to make it look good. But this helps a ton! thank you
Thank you! I'm glad this has helped. I'll likely follow this video up at some point with a list of things we can use it for.
Great video and also came in a great timing since I'm painting the Stormreach Portal and was looking for some verdigris videos!
Ah I’m glad this helps. When you have painted it up please do send me a message on instagram I’d love to see it.
Let the dirty down dry and then go in with a wet brush. You can move it around, expose some areas down to the copper. With water you can basically remove it all or push it into recesses if that is the effect you want. It is like activating oils with thinner. But only using water. The oils can be put on a piece of cardboard first to let some of the oil wick out, only like 5-10 minutes or so, then they will dry so much faster. Also heat and sunlight helps to cure them faster.
Thanks for all this info, I’ll potentially do a deeper test with each of them to show some more interesting ways to use them. Fantastic info in this comment thanks again
Super helpful vid, I got alot of ideas from it I haven't thought off before. Thank you! 👍
No problem at all I'm glad it helped.
really liked the inclusion of oils in this. it seems like a lot of times they get ignored by the community at large.
I love oils . I think I use them on every miniature now as a wash somewhere on them lol. The collection grows
Love oils. I've painted 2 armies with them. I find it hard to go back lol
For the oils, try the cobalt teal from gamblin. The color is perfect
I’ve heard great things about all of the Gamblin oils. Thank you
Ive spent the last few months doing skaven and beoming as intimate with aged copper as I can, and the worst thing i try and avoid that i see all the time on peoples models is having the verdigris be a single color or splotchy, the dirty down one fixes this- but so far my best method is varying all 3 of these, some over a stipped pattern underneath for heavier weathering- doing a darker green oil/somthing like corelia greenshade or a dark turquiose paint then using Nikal oxie to brighten small spots looks pretty nice.
So I made this video after painting up some Skaven and a few props. And I totally agree using the best bits of all three is a real winner.
Great video, I have all three of these (although which greens in oil paints I am not sure at the moment.). I never thought to layer them. Also curious how the Dirty Down would react to GW, since Dirty Down is water reactive…could be interesting instead of just water!
Thanks so much. I had no issues layering them with the dagger but I wasn’t really pulling any paint away to expose the underneath. (Runs to the printer to print a test model haha) I love playing around with these paints.
My favorite is dirt cheap craft paint (Apple Barrel seafoam) because it's low pigment density means it keeps some transparency when you add a watery layer into the recesses.
Owwww okay. I’ll have a look into this. Could be great for big scenery stuff as well if it’s super easy. Do you use on miniatures details as well like rivets and parts etc?
Great video ! thank you ! Quick question, where did you get the statue you're painting ?
It’s a free file online. I think if you type 40k statue STL it should could up.
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pedestal-with-hooded-statue
@@PaintByBlunders Thank you SO MUCH ! I've been looking for it for days :D
You can make oil paints dry much quicker by adding a siccative into them like an alkyd medium, depending on pigment it can take about a few hours to a day. It doesnt work super well with winton because of the low pigmentation and high wax content in those though.
Owwww I love this! Thank you I’ll have a look into it. I’ve heard Windsor are good beginner oils. Is there any you’d recommend
Love it, will use this!
Please do!
Check your final cut check your hz in the audio and make sure it matches the 44.1 or 48k settings of the project and raw footage. Sometimes changes in the hz in the raw or project can speed or slow audio.
Ah thank you I’ll have a look at this. This sounds like it could the issue
Dude, this channel is great, very informative.
Do you have a mic? Or are you using the on camera mic? Might just be on my phone tbf
Haha yeah the intro audio is rubbish apologies. Thank you I'm glad you like it. Very much appreciated!
Wish you would’ve have tried The Army Painter Versigris, cuz I cant’t get that to look good for the life of me!? Tried thinning with the stabilizer, but I’m having very little success. Great vid nonetheless❤️
Owwww I’m googling the army painter one now! I didn’t know that was a thing, thank you 🙏
@ awesome, hope you’ll have better results than me❤️
Which green is the dark one you used as a base?
Incubi darkness from Citadel paints is the base for the dark ones.
What brand are your glasses?
What a question 😂 I’m not sure of the brand but I got them from The Specky Ren in Brighton (UK) last time I had my eyes tested.
🔥🤘❤️👍
Ignore me, was just the intro 😂😂
Ink by darkness? Inky black darkness? What paint is that?
Incubi darkness from Citidel paints. A number of people have asked this. I really need to work out how I say these names 😅😂
If you look at copper roofs, they are all completly "green", there are no streaks or patches. The house roofs in Copenhagen are 2-300 years old and are almost uniform green. Imagine a statue 1000 years old.
Is he saying “inky by darkness”? What is that?
Incubi darkness by Citadel paints 😂 sorry
Not a fan of Dirty Down, too finnicky and needs varnishing or it just doesnt stand up to wargaming.
Oils are great though, basically idiot proof. Which is good for me.
Yeah I notice on the dirty down it’s “semi permanent” which doesn’t fill me with joy haha
Dirty down is way way way too finicky for something as expensive as it is.
Do you go to the gym? You look like you used to
😂😅😂
I'm sorry but I couldn't watch this video. I got almost dizzy from your camera constantly auto focusing. You need to set manual focus it's going to be a lot better than your camera trying to focus on your table.
Thanks for the feedback I’ll have a fiddle with the settings.