Unfortunately wax and buffing compound are actually quite different. Buffing compounds have microabrasives in the liquid. Those microabrasives are what performs the "cutting" action of the compound. Wax is great as a final coat for a layer of protection, but you won't be able to polish out scratches with it.
It's hard to say. Unless it's exposed to direct sunlight it'll probably be ok. The windshield and other glass of your car will block the damaging UV from the sun, but a sunshade can't hurt if you're trying to keep the interior temps down while the car sits outside.
Hey man quick question, on the final step after wet sanding, part of the wheel is remaining matte after polish while other parts are glossy. Do you have any advice to get it all to shine like that? If it matters I'm using a microfiber since I dont have a foam applicator on the polishing.
My guess would be that part of the epoxy didn't quite get sanded out as much as the rest, so you may just need to spend more time on that spot again with ~2000-3000 grit, then try to polish again. No harm in spot sanding and re-polishing a small area at least. Let me know if that doesn't work. If you've got a good uniform 2000 or 3000 (even better) wet sand, it should polish out just fine with a micro fiber but may take a little more elbow grease.
@@evandoeseverything174 Yea I put on another layer of epoxy and sanded but it turns out I just wasn't spending enough time really getting that polish in there. Didn't know it would take so long by hand, but appreciate the help man!
Hey i got small cracks (not deep) near the orange stripe at the top how should i proceed on removing those? If u have any social media where i can send you some pictures if you would like so you have an idea of it.(please reply i’ve been asking other people but they never get back to me)
Something you could try on small cracks instead of doing a complete sand and re-coat with epoxy like I did in the video, would be to try to fill the crack with clear coat, and then wet sand and polish after it's cured. This won't eliminate the cracks like the complete epoxy re-coat, but it may blend them in well enough that it won't bother you anymore. You may need to build up a few layers of clear coat before wet sanding so that the crack is actually "filled".
@@evandoeseverything174 alright and what sand paper i should start off with? And does it matter if i get another epoxy resin with the hardener or i have to get the same as yours?
Many resins will work just fine. Just make sure you get a good 2 part epoxy resin meant for carbon fiber. If it's your first time doing this kind of thing, I'd start with 400 or 600 grit paper and then go up from there. It may take a while using 400 to initially sand the scratch out, but if you work slowly it is more forgiving.@@faaygoo
Hey man, i'm inpressed how you got the surface so smooth, after i put on the resin, my surface is wavy and on the backside there are resindrops. How do i prevent that? I need your help!
Thin layers of resin work the best to prevent sags and drips, but sometimes it is unavoidable. Different resins have different viscosity too, some of the thicker resins are harder to get smooth. If you get drops on the back side you can always wet sand them away with 320 or 400 grit before you finish polish or clear coat.
Hi mate, seering wheel looks looks brand new after the repair!What kind of epoxy are you using that dries in a couple of hours? Also, how can I DM you, I have some more questions if you do not mind
I used a UV stabilized 3:1 epoxy resin system from Momentum Composites. You can still find it online but they no longer sell it on eBay (where I used to buy it) for some reason. Honestly any good 3:1 system will work, and you can find them with different cure times. I like working with stuff that is set in about an hour and fully cured within 24. I don't have a DM but am always happy to answer questions on here, just post them up!
@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks for recommendation! Thing that I am trying to solve is that when I apply clear coat to the skinned carbon fiber part a ton of little pin holes form. One or two would be no problem, but parts are literally covered with them. I did some research and I now think that the issue is that I have applied only 2-3 layers of epoxy on top of the fiber and wievs are sucking in the clear coat
@@arnesasss Yup, could be bubbles from the weave. A light sanding, clean, and epoxy recoat could help knock down some of the weave texture if it is indeed the problem. Also, if the surface is too cold when you apply the clear coat it can create bubbles, so perhaps use a heat gun to get things up to temperature a bit before spraying. A heat gun can also eliminate bubbles if they appear after you've sprayed or epoxy coated. You'll get the finish you're after in no time! Good luck!
What steps did you take in polishing? I have a 05 Gallardo with the same problem. I sanded all the way to 2000 grit and then starting polishing with a polishing compound but can't seem to get it shiny enough. Any help would be regally appreciated.
You may have better luck if you wet sand all the way to 3000 grit. The 3000 grit will get you most of the way to a nice polish, which is especially nice on weird shaped things like a steering wheel where you can’t get a power buffer or orbital on it easily and have to work by hand.
@@evandoeseverything174 Thank you so much Evan. I will definitely give it a shot. Do you use a buffing wheel or polishing wheel afterwards or is it all by hand? I checked out one of your videos on Lambo talk regrading the front suspension and bushing replacement from a f430. Ive had similar problems w my 05 but unfortunately its the actual ball joint in the lower arm. Trying to locate a replacement on eBay but its been challenging. Thanks again for the advice, really appreciate it.
@@brianschwartz3874 Always glad to help. Thanks for watching my videos! On the steering wheel I mostly used my random orbital buffer with foam pads. You can get the same level of shine by hand though, just takes more elbow grease. Regarding your control arms, sorry to hear your problem is the ball joint. I feel for you. Fortunately Lamborghini updated 07-08 cars with replaceable ball joints. There are a few guys out there that offer rebuild services for the earlier control arms though. I believe there was a post on Lamborghini-Talk.com about it not too long ago.
The crack is in the epoxy, so you just sand the epoxy away where the crack is and the crack slowly disappears. Then you must recoat with a new layer of epoxy. Good luck!
Usually the heating element is glued to the leather that wraps the wheel. If you were able to remove the heating element from the original covering and instead glue it to the wheel core, you could then wrap that in a few layers of carbon and finish it.
@@evandoeseverything174 yeah so carbon would be at the top and bottom of the wheel and perforated leather at sides with heating . So if I remove the oem element , I could reuse on say right side but on the left I’d have to use new wires and solder to some of the elements taken for the left. How do you make the side grips thinker the leather sides, how do you mold the side grips
@@garthbanton4236 Unfortunately I did not make the steering wheel in this video, it was made by MA Carbon, based on an original Lamborghini Gallardo wheel. You may be able to use a cheap racing wheel as your base and reupholster it as you'd like, and then cover the top and bottom in carbon to achieve what I think you're trying to.
![How to Make a Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel with Epoxy Resin [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UDsZsFJ1ai8/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Make a Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel with Epoxy Resin [DIY]](/img/tr.png)
![How to Make a Carbon Fiber Door Panel 370Z [DIY] (Carbon Fiber Skinning)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oThwzsywC5U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey man, not sure if you still check these, but does wax work the same as polish for the buffing or is that different? Thanks
Unfortunately wax and buffing compound are actually quite different. Buffing compounds have microabrasives in the liquid. Those microabrasives are what performs the "cutting" action of the compound. Wax is great as a final coat for a layer of protection, but you won't be able to polish out scratches with it.
@@evandoeseverything174 I see, thanks for the reply!
Hey I have carbon fiber wheel in my Infiniti how do i prevent cracking to begin with should i invest in a sunshade ??
It's hard to say. Unless it's exposed to direct sunlight it'll probably be ok. The windshield and other glass of your car will block the damaging UV from the sun, but a sunshade can't hurt if you're trying to keep the interior temps down while the car sits outside.
Hey man quick question, on the final step after wet sanding, part of the wheel is remaining matte after polish while other parts are glossy. Do you have any advice to get it all to shine like that? If it matters I'm using a microfiber since I dont have a foam applicator on the polishing.
My guess would be that part of the epoxy didn't quite get sanded out as much as the rest, so you may just need to spend more time on that spot again with ~2000-3000 grit, then try to polish again. No harm in spot sanding and re-polishing a small area at least. Let me know if that doesn't work. If you've got a good uniform 2000 or 3000 (even better) wet sand, it should polish out just fine with a micro fiber but may take a little more elbow grease.
@@evandoeseverything174 Yea I put on another layer of epoxy and sanded but it turns out I just wasn't spending enough time really getting that polish in there. Didn't know it would take so long by hand, but appreciate the help man!
Hey i got small cracks (not deep) near the orange stripe at the top how should i proceed on removing those? If u have any social media where i can send you some pictures if you would like so you have an idea of it.(please reply i’ve been asking other people but they never get back to me)
Something you could try on small cracks instead of doing a complete sand and re-coat with epoxy like I did in the video, would be to try to fill the crack with clear coat, and then wet sand and polish after it's cured. This won't eliminate the cracks like the complete epoxy re-coat, but it may blend them in well enough that it won't bother you anymore. You may need to build up a few layers of clear coat before wet sanding so that the crack is actually "filled".
@@evandoeseverything174 but if i want to do it exactly like you did it will work also right?
Absolutely! @@faaygoo
@@evandoeseverything174 alright and what sand paper i should start off with? And does it matter if i get another epoxy resin with the hardener or i have to get the same as yours?
Many resins will work just fine. Just make sure you get a good 2 part epoxy resin meant for carbon fiber. If it's your first time doing this kind of thing, I'd start with 400 or 600 grit paper and then go up from there. It may take a while using 400 to initially sand the scratch out, but if you work slowly it is more forgiving.@@faaygoo
Hey man, i'm inpressed how you got the surface so smooth, after i put on the resin, my surface is wavy and on the backside there are resindrops. How do i prevent that? I need your help!
Thin layers of resin work the best to prevent sags and drips, but sometimes it is unavoidable. Different resins have different viscosity too, some of the thicker resins are harder to get smooth. If you get drops on the back side you can always wet sand them away with 320 or 400 grit before you finish polish or clear coat.
@@evandoeseverything174 thank you very much, which viscosity would you recommend me, the currently one i'm using is 640-780
@@bobbyrollins5911 The epoxy resin I used for this has a viscosity of 1000 cps.
Hi mate, seering wheel looks looks brand new after the repair!What kind of epoxy are you using that dries in a couple of hours? Also, how can I DM you, I have some more questions if you do not mind
I used a UV stabilized 3:1 epoxy resin system from Momentum Composites. You can still find it online but they no longer sell it on eBay (where I used to buy it) for some reason. Honestly any good 3:1 system will work, and you can find them with different cure times. I like working with stuff that is set in about an hour and fully cured within 24. I don't have a DM but am always happy to answer questions on here, just post them up!
@@evandoeseverything174 Thanks for recommendation! Thing that I am trying to solve is that when I apply clear coat to the skinned carbon fiber part a ton of little pin holes form. One or two would be no problem, but parts are literally covered with them. I did some research and I now think that the issue is that I have applied only 2-3 layers of epoxy on top of the fiber and wievs are sucking in the clear coat
@@arnesasss Yup, could be bubbles from the weave. A light sanding, clean, and epoxy recoat could help knock down some of the weave texture if it is indeed the problem. Also, if the surface is too cold when you apply the clear coat it can create bubbles, so perhaps use a heat gun to get things up to temperature a bit before spraying. A heat gun can also eliminate bubbles if they appear after you've sprayed or epoxy coated. You'll get the finish you're after in no time! Good luck!
What steps did you take in polishing? I have a 05 Gallardo with the same problem. I sanded all the way to 2000 grit and then starting polishing with a polishing compound but can't seem to get it shiny enough. Any help would be regally appreciated.
You may have better luck if you wet sand all the way to 3000 grit. The 3000 grit will get you most of the way to a nice polish, which is especially nice on weird shaped things like a steering wheel where you can’t get a power buffer or orbital on it easily and have to work by hand.
@@evandoeseverything174 Thank you so much Evan. I will definitely give it a shot. Do you use a buffing wheel or polishing wheel afterwards or is it all by hand? I checked out one of your videos on Lambo talk regrading the front suspension and bushing replacement from a f430. Ive had similar problems w my 05 but unfortunately its the actual ball joint in the lower arm. Trying to locate a replacement on eBay but its been challenging. Thanks again for the advice, really appreciate it.
@@brianschwartz3874 Always glad to help. Thanks for watching my videos! On the steering wheel I mostly used my random orbital buffer with foam pads. You can get the same level of shine by hand though, just takes more elbow grease. Regarding your control arms, sorry to hear your problem is the ball joint. I feel for you. Fortunately Lamborghini updated 07-08 cars with replaceable ball joints. There are a few guys out there that offer rebuild services for the earlier control arms though. I believe there was a post on Lamborghini-Talk.com about it not too long ago.
Hello brother, I’m from Taiwan. How do you remove the crack? I have the same problem!
The crack is in the epoxy, so you just sand the epoxy away where the crack is and the crack slowly disappears. Then you must recoat with a new layer of epoxy. Good luck!
If I wanted to keep the heated element if I’m making a carbon wheel on the right and left side, how would I do this if you know
Usually the heating element is glued to the leather that wraps the wheel. If you were able to remove the heating element from the original covering and instead glue it to the wheel core, you could then wrap that in a few layers of carbon and finish it.
@@evandoeseverything174 yeah so carbon would be at the top and bottom of the wheel and perforated leather at sides with heating . So if I remove the oem element , I could reuse on say right side but on the left I’d have to use new wires and solder to some of the elements taken for the left. How do you make the side grips thinker the leather sides, how do you mold the side grips
@@garthbanton4236 Unfortunately I did not make the steering wheel in this video, it was made by MA Carbon, based on an original Lamborghini Gallardo wheel. You may be able to use a cheap racing wheel as your base and reupholster it as you'd like, and then cover the top and bottom in carbon to achieve what I think you're trying to.
the real question is. How the f did someone manage to crack the stearing wheel?
Can't be totally sure, but I believe it was simply a combination of 10+ years and a lot of direct sunlight from when the top was down.