How To Make a Raised Shop/Studio Floor : Woodworking Workshop Build EP: 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Welcome back!....or welcome if you are new here!! We are currently renovating our shop and this week we finally built a leveled floor. We built this based on what is best for us and best for this shop. This took us around 2 and half days total with paint and all! Hope you guys enjoy!!
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I'm in my 40s and have been trying to do this over my friend's basement floor but I could have a flat surface to lay my click together flooring. The man doing it on my own trying to figure out how because it's so wavy because of how bad they pour the concrete. Over the last two-and-a-half months I take it apart five times. Last night was the last time I took the flooring off and I'm right back down to the joists. You guys have done the best and easiest explanation I've seen out of all the videos I've watched over the last two months. I haven't slept and it's a little bit after 5 a.m. and I'm getting ready to start framing it for the last time.! You two are pretty amazing young people! Better job than all the adults that have made videos!
absolutely perfect! Thank you for posting!
About to do this in my garage-to-living room conversion. Great job and I’ll be using some of your technique 👍
Really glad I read the comments. I’m looking to build a raised floor, but looks like you made quite a few fairly big mistakes. The main one being attaching your support posts to the sides of the beam without any support directly beneath the beam, and not using and floor hanging joists. You really shouldn’t have this video up. People may try to copy your design without realizing the major errors that make it unsafe.
You freaking rock! Way to go! And thank you.
This is so cool! My shop floor is like a pitchers mound, crazy uneven. Good work!
Also, I suggest carpet.
😂😂 Thanks David! If I could put a rug in there I would and make it all decorated! But just not practical 😂
I agree with David! I've got all sorts of odds and sods of carpet, rugs, carpet shop samples in my garage. Much cosier, and when you drop something it doesn't hit a hard floor. And I can just chuck out any bits that get spoiled
Wow, this is an amazing transformation! We're glad you had the Power-Flo Pro 2800 to help. Thanks for sharing this awesome video!
This sprayer is 👌🏼🙌🏻 Can't wait to use it for more projects!! Thanks you guys!!
Great job. I do respect your disclaimer at the start of the video. I’ll enjoy seeing the shop finished
Cheers. Mark🇦🇺
For an unlevel floor-----IT WAS. But you made an amazing job leveling it and you'll be proud of it for a long time. Good job my friends.
Looking great guys!!
Are you still satisfied with the 2x4 or... would you recommend 2x6?
Great video I want to do this but have to raise the floor about 2 feet anything else I should add?
Looks like you're going to need a camera gantry system like John Heiz. The floor will likely transfer a lot of vibration into the camera when using tools like the table saw, hammering, or just walking. An alternative might be to rig an "upside down monopod" of sorts, where the camera is mounted to a pole which hangs between two rafters. The contraption could also be designed so that it could be moved around and not fixed in location.
You still have pretty decent head room. .....and a LEVEL floor! Congrats.
Yes thankfully! Also considering vaulting the ceiling to be able to remove all of the truss joists. Possibly a future project. Thanks!
All of the weight of your floor (and what's on top of it) is coming down laterally on the shanks of those deck screws ... that surprises me as an engineering and design choice. Can you explain?
Better choice would have been nailing.
Adam Brcic not those torks are way stronger than a nail and they wont rust
Right, using screws or nails sideways into support is not to any code. Support must be under the frame. Otherwise if you have 10 people in there, all their weight is resting on sheer strength of just a few screws.... Deck building rookie mistake.
That was literally my first thought. I am not sure what the right way to do it, but ose long beams need more support under to be able to support all that’s coming.
@@irvinwittmeier5208 those torx screws may have better holding power than a nail but much less shear strength. Nails are the way to go for framing.
Nice work
Thank you!
I learn a lot!!! Thanks!!!
Whelp that makes sense as to why the light is so good. I have debated building a raised floor in my shop for the same reason. I think I am just going to get monster truck tires for all the casters in my shop.
I'm sure the floor will be completely fine . . .but . . . You could increase the strength of your floor by lifting the flooring and adding filler blocks directly below the trusses as opposed to screwing a support from the side, and while your in there you could also add a second support on the opposite side to 'sandwich' them all together.
That’s what I was thinking. The trusses should be directly supported underneath by blocking. The way they built it, the screws are supporting too much load, instead of the support blocking.
They could just tack vertical supports onto the legs they screwed on to the truss sides
This is exactly what I have been looking for my garage. I have a three car garage with a slanted floor to direct VOC's and liquids out. It's a nice concept but makes it difficult to do anything other then store things in the garage. I have asked handymen and contractors and I get the "just lay concrete down, its self leveling". McFly, what if the next buyer does not want to remove up to an foot of concrete from the garage floor. Also that would make the garage door completely unusable. You earned a sub from me.
I wonder if one could force hot air under the floor to heat the room. Kind of like an Ondol underfloor heat system.
Suggestion for future video: create a Geodesic Greenhouse from scratch. Maybe smaller ones with a half wall to raise the dome. Not all of us have the space for 15ft diameter, or limited by local building codes.
Four thumbs up for the disclaimer at the beginning! That floor will be good and strong for many years to come. Nice job on the project and note to self...'when dancing with a paint can, make sure the lid is on nice and tight!'.
Good Video! Some area could be used for floor storage add a few access panel.
Thanks! Yea we were thinking about doing something like that!
Nice work guys! 👍👍👊👊
Thank you!!
Hello and thanks a lot for the video! I have a question: your wooden "frame" is raised on feet of different height because your floor is uneven. If my floor is even, is it ok to just have the wooden frame touching the old floor? thanks for anyone's advice :)
Paint looks 🔥
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Great video, but should have put adhesive glue in between your joist and your decking to prevent squeaking and backing out or breaking of screws.
I have a brick floor in my shop and thought about doing this instead of putting concrete. Luckly you guys put up a vid to give me instpiration, thanks!
How many circuits did you run? Do you guys think it will be enough. Not sure how much current you guys will be using
Nice. I love how bright everything is.
There have been a few concerns about the structural integrity of the supports screwed into the sides of the joists, so I thought I'd address it here. There are 5 supports down each joist cutting the span down to roughly 36"-40". Being as how these joists are also on 16" centers and tied into other joists in 4 locations the weight will be distributed across multiple joists / supports. We see the concern and recommend anyone considering doing this project to take all the comments into consideration down below. We will keep you updated if anything fails in our design over time and we are taking this advice into consideration. Stay tuned over on Instagram for updates and possible reinforcement.
Woodbrew don’t let them get you down. You did a awesome job making things level. We all see things we could have done after a project but it seems like you distributed the weight decently. What’s the worst that happens? It sags someday? You can always go back and make a change in the future. I think you did a fine job.
You should consider cutting some access hatches in the floor so you can take advantage of storage space below.
Maybe wait until after you get your tools/equipment in the shop though so you know where to cut them.
Nothing's going to fail. I think with the decking overlaid on the supports, and the screws, is plenty for how you all will use it. I wouldn't drive a car on it, but some power tools and people, aren't going to cause problems. A really nice build, and I think a super smart thing to do. Well done!
Michael, a decent table saw can weigh over 500lbs with a 24" base. Add a person and thats close to 700lbs all being held by just a couple of deck screws in sheer.
A #8 deck screw has a sheer strength of about 180lbs... That just isn't enough. You are relying on the wood flexing to spread the load to a series of screws, meaning over time the dead weight of tools is going to cause the floor to warp even if the screws don't rip out.
It’s not as though one deck screw holds all that weight. It’s distributed over a very wide area not a point load. 180lbs sheer strength, There’s at least 20 underneath the footprint of a table-saw, And considering the TnG ply they have a nice web of structure in there. Again, i think they’re going to be just fine. If their not, I’ll buy you a beer.
Great work guys! I'm sure you're ready to be setup and running!
So ready!!
Should be OK Iv built a few decks like that maybe add a few holes in the sides where the joists touch the floor to allow air movement, just a note for the future I would add a couple of supports underneath the joists instead on fixing to the sides where your heavy machinery will be ie table saw etc
Buzzin stay cool :)
We've got multiple supports on every joist 👍🏼
How’s the floor working out? When I watched your video I was a bit concerned about the screws supporting all the weight. I hope it’s working well for you guys!
I was curious about the lack of joist hangers as well. If it works, it works
Cool how to see you change your shop step by step💪. Would love to have a place like that to build our projects!!
you two are so friggin cute, good for you for taking on this project and learning as you go.
Maybe you could make some boxes with an access hatch(es) for under-floor storage between the joists? Just a thought. Cheers.
Thought about that! It would be nice for long term storage 😊
I'm just going to say, I hope they put a ramped incline in near the garage door, will make getting things on wheels in and out of the space.
0:49 😂 “what are those” don’t make fun of his shoes 😜 hahah!
Good job and great video!
Great work! Thanks for sharing the video with us.😎👍JP
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Great job on the floor and shop, but especially a great job with the "pre-emptive strike" telling all the "digital morons" who do nothing and still make terrible comments to "zip it!" Keep building! DD
Who makes wooden tool boxes?
I'm curious of the cost difference of the lumber floor over having a few yards of concrete poured to level it? Not throwing off on your guys work, just learning with you.
The floor cost us about $700. Had we gone with concrete we would have had to do a one of two things. Option 1: remove the existing floor to allow for a level pour. Option 2: bring a few yards of dirt in to level up the existing floor a bit more and then pour over it. Option 1 would be the best, but would require jackhammering the entire floor and removing thousands of pounds of concrete. We would also have to be super careful because the building sits on the slab and removing to much concrete could potentially cause a wall to crack or worse fall down. Option 2: we didn’t like because it’s expensive, only saves us 3” of Head room, is permanent, hard to run electrical / dust collection in, and we wouldn’t be able to do the work. We were quoted on average $1500 to pour the room, but this didn’t include dirt so probably more like $2000 by the time it’s all done. Possibly more because pouring on the full dirt would require even more forming to be done and some thick side walls. All of this made us go with the decked floor👍🏻
I don't really know why I watched this but your jokes were hilarious. Can't wait to see more projects!
😂 Thanks
Very nice! Didn’t know about tongue ‘n’ groove OSB!
Yea! It's subfloor osb but in this case our actual floor 😏
Awesome. Seen you guys van in town the other day. Keep up the good work.
That's so cool! Are you from around here??
Yes.
I need to makes some more videos and get better at editing 😂. Yeah I work for the city and seen your van down town. Love the tag💪🏻
That's awesome! It seems like we are always downtown 😂 Editing is difficult to get used to, but once you have a grove doing it, it gets easier 😊
Great video, thank you for sharing! Spraying paint everywhere looks so much fun :D
Thank you!!
WHATER THOOOOOOOSE! Love your guys videos. My wife and I also do woodworking but have yet to finish a video since I have no time to edit being in the military
That's awesome! Thank you for your service!!
Wonder what the inspector said about wiring under the floor?
WOW ok no more rolling paint for me gotta get me one of those sprayers that looked way easier and faster than me rolling paint like I have in the past. Also if I were to put in a raised floor I would run conduit under it at key locations for dust collection as well as have some outlets in the floor at key locations for tools to plug into. Otherwise looks great.
Ok - I get all the comments on the floor not properly built, so I won't add to that part, but can you tell me the cost of this job? I would have priced out some self levelling concrete for comparison and just poured a level floor since you had masonry. It's not cheap stuff so I don't know if it would have been more or less but I'm throwing out there for the next person who thinks about doing it your way. It would also give you a more solid base for heavy equipment, but it's also harder on your body when standing for long periods.
Got quotes anywhere between $1500 and $2500 for concrete. The wooden floor cost somewhere between $600-$800. The self leveling stuff I think you are referring to is super expensive and not made to be poured less than an 3” thick. It’s for leveling pretty level surfaces. Our lowest section is 11” lower meaning we’d have to spend a ton on concrete or bring in fill dirt and none of the quotes accounted for that. You could remove the slab and then pour a new one that’s level, but the way the building is built you’d have to be suppppppper careful. This clay city brick is laid on the slab and you’d likely break something.
Got it - thx for reply
Pretty cool ;), i like ur videos ;) greetings from Czech republic ;)
PS: I Dont know how it works with OSB, but every floor has to have a little space around walls (1cm) cause of floor moving :)
Awesome solution for the floor and looks like you will have a great work space!!
The WORST thing you can do is put boards screwed into the sides of the other boards. The tiny screws have to bear the weight of everything. You are better off notching wood and putting it UNDER the boards for support. This is such a MAJOR ISSUE, that you really NEED to pull up the the plywood and fix the support boards!
What you built should hold up fine. Engineer here that builds bridges. None of those joists will twist with all the intermediate bracing and the tounge and groove. The structure is fairly rigid. The torx screws have more strength to them than people think.
Things I would watch for:
floor bounce, as rigid everything is if you set a few legs high this could lift lower ones causing a bounce. Not a big deal though.
Electrical, not sure how drainage is around the building but wouldn't be a terrible idea to protect the circuit with a GFCI or AFCI. Water could get under the floor fairly easy.
Why didn't you just pour a 4-6" concrete pad to level things out?
Thanks for the suggestions! And the reassurance! We got quoted over double the price of the way we did it so we went with this 😊
Looks like you have a plan and your going for it! Congrats on the new venture and I look forward to next weeks video!
🤘🏼🤘🏼
I love white it looks very clean to ,Awesome job again guy's later :)
Loving what you guys are doing ! The white is going to make for awesome pics and video !
Thanks as always TJ 🤘🏼
For sure! That's almost the best part about it!
Looks great! Just need a rug! Haha
I would so put a rug in their if I could! 😂
I'm sorry, I guess I will have to be the troll on this one.
Based on your opening disclaimer it is clear that many people have told you the right way to build this floor and you have chosen to ignore their advice and build it your way (cheap and easy). Essentially what you have built here is a large deck inside a building that would not pass inspection. I understand your need for a flat level surface but it also needs to be able to support the weight loads you will be placing on it over time as your shop expands. It is not only the larger equipment but the cumulative weight load of other tools, benches, shelves and materials that will put strain on your floor and it will eventually fail. If you had any plans for say a 12"JOINTER your floor will not be strong enough to support the weight and vibration.
The materials used are undersized and not supported properly to displace point loads. Your worst problem is your "support posts". Your are relying on the shear strength of 2 wood screws to support the load. Screws are known to have poor sheer strength compared to nails. That is why building codes require nails and joist hangers to properly support loads. Imagine having a few parties in your building with 30 to 40 people jumping around, do you think your floor would support this? Please .... consult your local building codes and get a good book on deck building and then start over before it is too late.
You two normally do great work. This does not live up to your standards.
The disclaimer was a preemptive response to these types of comments not us dodging them because we didn’t want to listen to advice😂 This is one of those projects where people will have varying opinions based around how the project should be accomplished usually with it relating to their own situations. We felt comfortable doing the project this way so we did It👍🏻 time will tell if the our approach will work, but I can guarantee one thing.... if this floor fails, it will not trigger a catastrophic event. The furtherest you or it could fall is 11”. If that were to happen we’d simply take the sheeting off and add more supports. Problem solved.
Dillon...Varying opinions versus structural integrity and safety is why building standards were created and local building codes throughout the US and Canada are enforced. As I suggested, do the research and compare your design to acceptable standards. If you still feel it is adequate then take your design to the local building authority for approval. That will be the test of our "varying opinions". WRT to catastrophic events, suppose you are working on the table saw and the floor gives way under you or a free standing shelf or material topples over on top off you or your partner. What might happen? It only takes a second. Your excellent workbench showed you understood the importance of a solid base. I don't understand why this didn't translate to your floor design.
Well good thing a SawStop won't let that happen 😊
Ya, because a couple hundred pounds of cast iron falling over couldn't possibly hurt someone.
Looks like a real shop now! minus wicked tools. Have I mentioned my love for ceiling mounted drop down power/air reels?? Ya'll should price some out at the expo. So versatile . That poor paint can
We have some in our current shop in the garage and will definitely be moving over!
Great job guys, looks awesome!
What does the new floor leave you in terms of ceiling height?
Around 7 and a half ish feet. Not ideal but couldn't get around that
Interesting approach. You just THOUGHT he spilled the paint by accident but we all know he was priming the floor ( ... or ... not). I have a few questions. #1: The walls looked very thirsty. How many coats of paint did they take? (I know the floor took alot.) #2: I have used, almost, every brand of tool except for Ryobi. I am much older than you two so when Ryobi tools first hit the market, here in the USA, they weren't exactly considered "quality tools". How is the new line holding up with your usage? How do they compare to the big brand names? #3: I know you two had the opportunity to meet Jimmy Diresta (you made comments in one of your videos). How has his work(s) inspired you both in your design choices? #4: Your design on the SOLID work bench ... was this Diresta "inspired" or ... did he put a little bug in your ears (which is totally cool if he did)? That's all. I like your videos. Keep it up. (oh, yea .... could you not use the canned music? I, as well as many others, like the talking and the sound of tools. The music gets to be annoying real quick). You two have alot to learn but you are going about it in the right way. Jumping in neck deep and working out of your comfort zone.
Ryobi is done by the same people that do a large chunk of all the tools you'll see in the big box stores. They are OK, not the best by a long shot, but probably good for the average home person. I doubt they will last as long with how these folks use them but it's still one of the cheaper brands for a reason. Personally on our job sites with the last company I did construction for we all used Ridgid. Most of the tools stacked up or were better in my opinion then the Dewalt brands, not quite up to Hilti or other Pro only brands, but the kicker for us was the lifetime service agreement on most of their power tools. Even on the batteries that came in combo packs. No other company can match that and even on the job site where we beat the hell out of the tools I only ever saw 1 impact die in over 2 years of hard and often wet work. Luckily, he took it in and they gave him a spare while they replaced the main one. Not sure if that's standard practice but you can't beat that.
TLDR, yea, Ryobi isn't bad for home owner level of work, but don't expect them to put out the numbers of the more pricey "pro-sumer" tools and they definitely won't last as long as a Hilti or other high priced pro-only brand, and warranties matter!!
Are you guys worried about the osb not having room to expand due to moisture content changes?
Our area is 98% humidity just about year round, so no not really 😊
Woodbrew 👍
My future shop has a dirt floor. This looks just right, but I think I have a more level starting point.
I, for one, like Dylan's socks.
Correct me if im wrong, but there is a sizable step from the garage door into the room. Is there a plan for a ramp or steps?
Talking about doing a ramp right now, but the step isn't that bad
Love this.
My only question is if the OSB will be hard to sweep the sawdust off of/around on, or if it is smooth enough to keep clean fairly easy.
It's pretty smooth to keep clean 🙏🏼
looking good :)
hey whatever works for you but I'm really interested in seeing how that floor holds up over time after being laden down with a bunch of tools. I hope you do a follow up in a few years.
👍🏼👍🏼
Ah, I enjoy seeing young people work with their hands. Fills me with hope.
"We didn't have to tape of anything" - 5:49
Looks good, wow it really was out of level a lot.....
Noice
Two words for the critics; "They ain't building the Taj Mahal and they aren't planning on being in this shop for a hundred years."
is that fairhope pirates as in fairhope, AL?
Great job on the floor that’s the way I did my old shop I used OSB and a nail gun. Are you going to level the floor white or are you going to lay a carpet down on top or something else
Nice love the vids
Thanks:)
looks good y'all. Lots of keyboard warriors commenting on this one LOL pay no attention to the trolls. If it works and you like it then WHO CARES lol :) keep up the good work. Love alls videos.
I can’t wait to see what you do with the ceiling, cuz my shop has the same (except lower) and I dislike it.
6:23 Drops it and then just looks at it xD
That’s going to be a thousand times more comfortable to work on all day. Concrete has a lot of advantages. Comfort isn’t one of them. Especially when it’s no level.
It's soo nice! Going to be interesting being on it all day so we can really tell the difference 😊 We already like it better than concrete though
"How WE made our raised floor", instead of "how to make a raised floor" would probably be a more appropriate title, imho.
Great job, I am starting a similar project here in July2021, I had planned to do the post the same way, but was not sure about the vapor barrier. How has your floor held up since 2018?
Thousands of lifetime projects with Wood Prix plans.
quick tips....drops and just looks hahaha
wOAA what happened to your wiring video?? I hadnt finished it :(
how much room floor to ceiling does that give you?
Around 7ish feet. Not ideal but there's really nothing we could do to avoid it 🤷🏼♀️
That looks great!! I am just wondering: did you skip the plans on having under-floor dust collection? :)
Nope! That is coming soon!
Woodbrew Nice! 👍🏼
I just fixed a poorly leveled slab in my house. Due to headroom concerns, instead of building a deck I found the high point of the room with my homemade water level and scribed 2x material to that level plus an inch (so at the high point of the slab the 2x material was 1" tall). Scribing is time consuming but it has the benefit of leaving no gaps between the concrete and the 2x so everywhere is solidly supported. And it's cheap, I did the entire room with (2) 2x10-12's plus the 3/4" Weyerhauser Edge Gold subfloor. Don't forget to glue and screw the floor to eliminate squeaks. I don't have room for electrical outlets in the floor but since this will be a bedroom and not shop space that didn't matter.
Did you guys use joist hangers at all? I just worry that over time with the shop equipment weight and daily stress, those connections will fail. Obviously not sure what equipment you are planning on installing.
Austin Bridge joist hangers are a fail makes it sloppy i have never liked them hate using them all they do is weaken the end of your lumber with so many holes every nail just splits the end they were invented to make someone money not to make a strong connection
It’s crazy how unlevel that floor is. I guess you can take the new floor out, if you decide to open a dairy!
First video I've seen. How old are y'all?!
Also I subscribed.
Awesome! We are both 21 😊
I love the work, but with a few caveats. 1: You should have used construction adhesive on the leveling posts and used cripples under the beams at that point. 2: 3/4 OSB should have been glued to the beams also it will slowly deteriorate with heavy use. (you'll feel it get spongy over time, watch for it) May I suggest this video how to: ruclips.net/video/a9sP7DeRWoc/видео.html it will not only strengthen the floor it will look beautiful.
Southern Engineering I had to lay osb before ya it didn’t last forever and I later replaced it with ply but at the time it kept me in budget and got me back to work.
4:45 almost made yourself a cripple
We good :)
Hi you Forget some phonic isolation under the floor don't you
I know, right?
Yeah I would have done it where you lay out Acme TNT sticks to spell out the word BOOM and go from there. Doing it all wrong.
Hahahaha i love it the finish
Hahaha Thanks!
Molly Dillon, dont be put off by what people are saying about the floor, its brilliant and very professionally done. Remember what Arnie Swartz said, “ignore the neigh sayers”