My mechanic has retired and I really trusted him. He was honest and charged reasonable rates. At times, he didn't want to work on my car, a '91 Corolla, because he said the repair was worth more than the car. At 300K, he told me I had taken a gasoline engine to the edge of its envelope. At one point, I had the transmission rebuilt and it cost me $1900 (it really only needed a 5th gear synchro but I just had them do it all). This was at around 427K miles. He took a long look at me and finally said, "Do you have an emotional attachment to this car? Because you could get one with about 150K on it for $1500." I told him that I love it more than life itself. I might have even said I planned to be buried in it. It is the only car I have ever owned since new. It is a long, sad story but I took that car to 634K and it was still getting well over 40MPG (manual trans). I don't regret a penny spent on it. I now have another '91 Corolla I bought 6 years ago with just under 59K on it and when it arrived, it looked museum quality, showroom new. It was so clean-everywhere- I would have gladly LICKED ANY surface on it! I just hope that everyone can find a car that they love as much as I love my Corolla. Cheers
Beautiful story. May I ask what started the emotional attachement? Was it a gift from your parents, your wedding gift, or road trip memories with wife and children? 634 000 miles is a car`s paradise dream!
I hear you about emotional attachment. '93 Escort bought brand new and kept until 2019, after my mom passed in 2017. Was quite reliable because always maintained since being bought new. But it was honestly a dinky little car, and not worth fixing after the rear struts rusted out. You have to keep your head and let common sense come in at some point.
I share the feeling! my BMW e39 i know know its an old BMW but damn It i love It! I may buy others Cars but i love to keep this one as good as the day It came from the dealership
@virgil3241 hes is only speaking in financially liability. Cars are not an asset or investment. I do agree that cars are necessary, i lived in a small down with no busses, and its brutal. But if you want to financially well off always be aware that your car is always going to drain your money, and have a plan.
@@zedrico8577 Oh for sure, but if we lived our lives with everything is an asset or investment, no one would be married or own anything, besides the necessities to keep us alive. Any vehicle I own is for the long term, or until that stage of my life is over. My plan for my truck is, I keep it until Im dead.
My rust free Calif 92 stick shift Camry went 500k miles before the head gasket blew. Gasket was weeping 100k miles but since it was starting to smoke I just let it go. Upon replacing it with a used engine for $500 I took apart the old one. Turned out that it was smoking from the valve stem seals but by then, because I let the old engine sit, water got into it and locked it up. I wonder now if I had replaced the seals and gasket if I'd still have the original engine. Car is running again beautifully as before maybe for another 200k. I installed a tow hitch and fabricated a small trailer which I tow with the car to pick up scrap and washing machines that I sell as a side hustle.
Extremely true, I have 95 wrangler, a 97 F-150, and a 01 Frontier. I've also been a tech for a number of years and can rebuild all 3 of them from the ground up I'll keep em until the frames rust out.
@@kathrineculver696 That can be prevented easily, especially with someone of Your skills. In the salt belts, it’s routine maintenance if You want to keep them , and never ever use any of that rubberized undercoating crap.
The bigger problem is finding a mechanic that's not trying to rip you off and have you spending money on needless repairs. Wish there were more like you!
This is a very important point not explicitly discussed (implicit in AMD's discussion of cost of repairs). For those cannot DIY hardly any the maintenance and repair, holding a vehicle past 10 years or 100k miles becomes considerably more difficult with each passing year, as those expensive repairs represent a large % of vehicle value and could add up to a downpayment on a new car. For those can DIY, this decision point is much further away, maybe 20 years or 200k miles, maybe even further.
@@bokononisti2820 Agreed, if you dont do DIY it is best to run a relaible car in the 5 to 10 year old range. For those of us who DIY there are no limits, just like aircraft we can keep swapping out bits and make them last almost forever.
@@Smokeythewelderit's South Africa, man lol. Finding a good and honest mechanic isn't cheap or easy. It's like finding consistent electricity in South Africa.
I'm an ex technician who worked for an independent repair shop in Cape Town. It's actually very scary to see how they ripped people who don't know any better off. They even deliberately did stuff to people's cars in order to ensure return work. Thank goodness I learnt the trade, and can take care of my own car. I don't trust any shop whatsoever. 😥😿🤷♂️
@@majicdude88 reminds me of Iraq. Go in for a battery, get a battery but they swap out your alternator for one that barely functions. In that case youtube is your friend. Good luck.
Yes...Just spent $10,000 AUD on my 1995 Lexus LS400. No rust at all in here in dry region. Owned the car for 27 years, it needed EVERY SINGLE suspension part replaced as Australian roads are brutal. Some parts not available or have been discontinued therefore some parts replaced with not genuine. Rear axle carrier (knuckle) bushings available aftermarket, Toyota no longer manufactures the coil springs, thankfully available from KYB (OEM)...Car drives like it did 27 years ago...TOTALLY WORTH IT. Insured for $10k... Buy price in 1995; $162,000 AUD (yes, the LS400 was crazily expensive in Australia, consequently were a popular leased business vehicle). Cheers from AUSTRALIA!!!!!
I do my best to repair/replace any mechanical (suspension parts) on my own. Currently, my 2005 (bought new) RAV4 has 344k mi on it, and I was surprised that it still has good pickup speed. I'm hoping it can go beyond 500k mi 🤞.
Learn to fix yourself and use aftermarket parts... remarkably cheap. Just restored a 2000 LS400 that still looked new but needed a fair bit of mechanical work which I did for
10:35 the corollary to your insurance anecdote is that insuring a car from 1999 will cost $40 a month and insuring a car from 2024 will cost $400 a month.
I have a car that’s no longer road safe but I can’t get rid of it it’s parked in the garage it developed rust so now it just something I look at for the memories but if I drive it the car would start to fall apart.
I purchased a 2008 Volvo S80 T6 with 110,000 miles on it because the Haldex pinion shaft bearing was making noise that intruded into the inside of the cabin. It leaked oil from the vacuum pump and the water pump was leaking antifreeze and the check engine light was on and the blower motor was making allot of noise and the brakes needed replacing and the seller deducted the estimated repair costs from the residual value of the car. Paid $1,200 for the car and 4 years later I am still driving it. Did the repair work myself for a fraction of the cost because I paid for the parts and my labor is on me. Today it has 151,000 miles new tires and I still have not spent the residual value of the car on the car. So if I sold it today I would still make a profit. Being able to do your own repairs really can make a difference. Not having the knowledge of car repairs is really offset today by the internet and people like you sharing their knowledge and know how.
Drive It Forever is a great book on this topic. They recommend repairs unless the repair exceeds half the cost of the vehicle. This applies to any mechanical item.
My 03 suburban is worth $4k and a reman engine is $4k……. But a new suburban is $80k so what makes more sense to spend my money on? Apparently I should just throw away a good vehicle because it needs repairs😂
As someone who is allergic to car payments and car salesmen, I can appreciate a mechanic that can provide advice and even tell me what risks are involved if there are variables (unknowns) at play.
My 2003 GMC Sierra and it’s 5.3 have kept me payment free and on the road reliably.Maintenance is the key and luck helps too.Still rust free in the South 22 years later.
I had a transmission rebuilt. The rebuild was more than the car was worth, but it was worth it. For a few thousand dollars, I got the car to run for another three years. It was far cheaper than buying a new car. I finally sold the car for 3k. I should have kept it but it was turning into a reliability problem and I could no longer risk it breaking down.
5:40 - YES! It's always a "compared to what?" decision! Yes, the repairs may cost more than the car, but what else would you do instead? Buy a new car? I don't think new cars are built as well as the older cars, but that's my opinion. Buy a used car? With used car, you get the previous owner(s) maintenance history which may be largely unknown.
Exactly my thoughts. Unfortunately for my car, the rust might kill it before the engine or transmission breaks. In that case, I will purchase another one (8th gen Civic) and have the engines, transmissions and other good parts swapped. Still cheaper than a new car that isn't built very well.
New cars are certainly not as reliable as previous generations because manufacturers are forced into designs that sacrifice reliabilty/repairability for lower emissions. For example, an under sized engine with a turbo is less reliable an adequately sized engine with no turbo - but every new (gas) engine has a turbo because they can't meet the emissions requirements without it.
Putting 4,000 into a 5000 dollar is still cheaper than a car that is a few years old today.... this is why I'm probably not going to get rid of my camry and tundra....
I was in this situation about a month ago. Need a new clutch at 267k miles, along with the motor mounts, suspension, evap leak, possibly brakes. I had some money saved up and decided it’s time for a new ride. Went from a 2006 model to a 2016 model with low miles. Couldn’t be happier. Had a lot of good memories and adventures out of that old car.
When my first new car, a 92 Camry, was ten years old (and in great shape) I was wanting to buy a new car. My mom (who was frugal) told me: “You have had service from that car. Maybe it is best to part with it while you still have those good memories.” I still get a new car about every ten years and still have value in my old one.
AMD, Once again you have given us plenty to think about and I hope the younger generation can learn some valuable lessons. I threw far too much money at old jalopies😭 before I finally saw the light and bought a new car made by Toyota. I have taken good care of my one and only new car. Today that 'new' car is just a few months short of 20 years old and it runs as well as ever
We are so lucky to have this man and his family as a valued member of our American society. Sir I forget which country from which you came. I'm glad you're not there now.
His names Ahmed, no? Assuming he's from one of the dozens of countries we invaded and destabilized, forcing him like countless others to leave everything behind. Smh.
I live in Canada and my car has no rust. It’s not winter that rusts cars it’s chemicals the USA throws down chemicals on the roads to break the ice that’s what’s rusting your cars away. Here they will plow the roads and throw down gravel for traction. Anywhere there is ice they will use hot water to melt it then they shovel it off the roads. But they only clear the main roads the side streets are hell to drive on you need to have winter driving skills. But my cars been through many winter here not one ounce of rust.
Thanks for the balanced perspective on this. We recently had to make this decision when our 2010 Toyota Sienna with over 200k miles on it unfortunately had "catastrophic engine faliure". Got multiple quotes to fix it. $5k -$10k to fix it depending on many different factors. Just ended up deciding to sell it and bought a new car. While I dont like the payment, it was the best option for our family at this time.
I had a mechanic tell me to get rid of a car that was throwing CEL transmission codes after I changed the trans fluid. Ignored that advice, kept driving it, CEL went away after 10k miles, I’ve driven that car for many years with no issue.
This predates can-bus networks and other strategies to maximize fuel economy, emissions requirements etc. Mercedes and BMW were at their peak, before they started loading them up with electronics. NEW cars drive awesome, but they will not age well. The electronics components get discontinues, or are extremely pricey, BODY parts also are not as available after 10 years, as well. Picking the RIGHT used year/make/model, and getting a through evaluation before purchase is everything. Finding one from a neighbor, relative etc... often the best way to get a vehicle with a known history. I had a client come in with a Citroen yesterday.... it was from the early 1970s. Unbelievable... had modern looking headlamp lens.... GLASS.... and the headlights are cable tied to the steering, so you are lighting your travel path! Vehicle also had hydraulic suspension..... brakes on the axle inboard, not at the wheel hubs...... the list goes on. This vehicle was what many would call "alien tech".
As long as you can still get OEM parts. It is getting more difficult even for popular vehicles like my ‘97 Land Cruiser. Many pieces are NLA or not avail. in North America. And non-OEM parts are Chinese junk now for the most part. Even from NAPA.
We are of a very similar mindset where newer isn't always better. The best clients I ever had are the ones that allow me to form a partnership with them in the care of their vehicles. Those are the people that are vested in the maintenance and care and we work together to formulate a plan for the best reliability and longevity of their vehicles.
With how modern cars are built worse and more complex with more expensive components. I think despite a very low money value, the reliability and cheapness of maintenance of certain older cars, outshines the monetary value.
I'm with you but you also have to look at the availability of parts for the model you want to keep. Is there good aftermarket support? Many manufacturers stop making parts for cars over 10 years old and the parts stores and junkyards start to dry up.
One perk of living in California is the frames don't rust so as long as there is quality parts available you can keep going and going. Especially if you can do some of it yourself. It's a tool that you are spending to fulfill a need. Like a washing machine. How much can you get done for X dollars without endangering people or cheating people.
You evidently kept it well serviced. Most people don’t comprehend that is the cheapest insurance available for longevity. Sad to say , but the majority of people nowadays just treat them like appliances.
Amazing. I'm at 235,000 miles on my 2001 4runner. Will need to drop about 2k soon for suspension replacement, but I'm expecting this car to go another 10 years or more. 627,000 miles is insane!
I got a ride a few years ago to the airport in a Toyota SUV with 525K miles on it. Took a pic of the odometer because I thought no one would believe me. The driver said no engine work had been done, but a trans was installed @ around 300K miles. I wonder what maintenance was ever done on the trans before it went out.
I see it this way: 1. if I like the car, I fix it. 2. If I don't like the car and it's an utility, I will still fix it, because buying a second hand car is risky. At least I know the condition mine is in.
Salutation from the Great North 51, I recently put $5k on my 120,000 miles 07 Fj, front/rear suspensions, new lca and uca, it still run great. I was going to buy a 2025 Land Cruiser or 4Runner. I decided to wait and see on these new models. I still have my first car, a 1985 Celica Coupe with 99,500km.. I paid $k34 for the Fj in 2007, it was the first major repairs in 17 years, I don't think new Toyota will ever be that reliable ever... Keep up the excellent work you do!
I have an 8 year old RAV4. Still looks and runs like new. So far, I’ve only replaced the rear shocks and the front brake pads/rotors and performed regular maintenance (including transmission, cooling system, differential, and transfer case drain and fill. Did all the work myself (Thanks CCN for all the instructional videos, couldn’t have done it without you!). I think this car will easily last 15 to 20 years.
Best video on the internet today! My daily driver is turning into a money-pit. I have started paying serious bucks just to keep her running. I will consider your advice. It's either keep paying or cut and run and buy another.
It is is a fact the fewer cars you buy during the course of your working life the more money you will have in retirement. If it isn't rusted out fix it.
I always look at what getting another car that will last another 10 plus years. I was very pleased to hear you say it might be worth it to fix the car you have. I have done exactly that and I got another 10 years! And my basic calculation is dollars per mile. And that one is best when you get used good quality cars with low to moderate miles on them.
Same here in Michigan, all tho manufactures are doing a much better job in the last 10 years. Look into using a lanolin based undercoating in a spray can yearly. Doesn't take much time to DIY.
@@ArtVan-s4l : I get my car sprayed every year. The problem is, the idiots who buy the cars new do not, as they just don't care... they trade the cars in after the rust has begun. So the undercoating can only slow the rust down, but cannot stop it. Therefore keeping a car for decades, which I wish I could do, is impossible. And I absolutely despise the next car I'll have to buy when my current 2011 Impala reaches the end of the road, because anything less than a decade old now is a pile of electronic computerized overly complex crap.
@@dhache1195 : Plus, they use a brine of calcium chloride with salt which accelerates corrosion. It makes for an extremely aggressive rust that is a bright orange as the metal oxidizes. I almost bet the auto manufacturers must subsidize the spreading of this brine on our roads so our cars rust out faster.
Barely started watching the video right now have a 07 FJ cruiser with almost no rust on the frame. At 151k miles. I plan to keep it running and do an engine swap when needed. They don't make them no more. Just hope they have 07 engines by then. Do want to buy a Corolla hatchback while they still make them in Japan.
As I've commented on your channel a few times before, nearly 4 years ago (April 2021) i bought my 1 owner 2002 Lexus ES300 with 160,500 miles on it. Researched the service history on Lexus's website which isn't running anymore. Timing belt, water pump and valve cover replaced at 88k miles. no other major repairs/maintenance were done. Car fax showed a minor accident in the rear quarter nothing major. Soon after buying it the rear struts starting leaking and within the first 2 years i had to replace the OEM Alternator, starter, exhaust flex pipe, Front brake calipers, all ignition coils and plugs. After the coil on cylinder #1 was misfiring, decided to change all 6 with DENSO coils & plugs. Knowing the history of this wonderful car, the awesome indestructable 1MZ-FE engine and the fact that i only paid $4.,495, I was in for the long haul. Now with 185k miles, 2nd timing belt & water pump replaced earlier this year, No transmission issues, shifts perfectly, I'm keeping this car for as long as i can. Retiring in 3-4 years and don't have any intention of replacing it. Interior is as good as new and every button/switch still works. best Build quality in this 4th gen ES.
I have a 2007 mustang v6 that I just bought from one of my instructor's sons this past summer. Been replacing little things here and there, mostly suspension work since its been sitting a while, and its been nothing but a great and fun car since. It has almost 168,000 miles on it, which I feel like is a lot for the car but it still drives really great. Trying to maintain it as best as I can for now, but regardless of my experience so far I can't help but think ahead and wonder about stuff like this.
I've still got my 1990 Mustang GT convertible 230,000.00 miles needs a starter bought a 2016 Rav4 with 100,000.00 miles gonna put a starter in the Mustang when it starts getting warm and drive in the summer and just drive the Rav4 in the winter.
They made a RUclips video about a 2005 v-6 Mustang that has 335,000 miles on it and still running great. I am keeping my 2005 v-6 Mustang as my backup car, but I did have to buy a 36 mpg Honda Fit, because the 21 mpg mustang was killing me on gas since I commute 110 miles/day.
While on active duty, I would often listen to “Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers” and their advice on vehicles. I heard them give this opinion, “Every time a car owner turns the ignition key, it will cost them money” It’s that simple. I repair cars as my 3rd career after retiring from the military. I’ve noticed that after COVID, the price of cars and their parts dramatically increased. Please take care of your vehicles.
Another outstanding informative video, thank you. Over a 24 month period, I faced these decisions head on with my rust free 2002 and 2007 Tundra trucks. The vast majority of rubber parts on my ultra reliable '02 dry rotted from heat & age and they cracked & tore during a violent emergency stop to avoid T-boning a Prius that turn in front of me. I spent money on repairing everything and performing a lot of preventative maintenance while I was at it... money well spent. I had a plan to upgrade and modify / customize the high mileage '07 Tundra that I bought cheap in 2017, that plan included new springs, shocks, wheels, tires, brakes as well as repairing smaller things that were wearing out or broken. Replacing the 3UR-FE with a low mileage engine 7 years later was not part of my plan, but I was able to modify my plan and make it happen... money well spent. The lack of car payments and lower insurance costs give the a great deal of freedom, so I will continue to maintain and repair these trucks for as long as it makes sense to do so.
Agreed, cars are not an investment but the emotional value they have for some of us cant be denied, (looking at you with your old lexus ls) some of them we buy not has tools but has fullfillment of old dreams
Not in USA/ Canada. Latin America I have seen engines being re built 20 times. We have cars from 1980 to 2010. Only middle class and above can afford cars newer than 2015!
Seems to me like cars are kind of similar to furnaces. They can last forever with regular maintenance and some do it yourself work, but having a pro work on it costs a fortune and there's always underlying pressure to just buy a new one. With both, there's really only 1 or 2 things that could happen to it where you'd be like 'yeah, time to just get a new one'. As much as I *want* a shiny new car, not having car payments (especially as high as car payments are today) is a nice thing.
Depends... I have two older Lexus & Hilux rigs I definitely fixed up and restored- 88 Longbed Hilux👍🏼 2000 LX-470👍🏼-stripped out the old suspension, put a full Ironman of road off road kit, new CV axles, upper arms, ball joints-everything that needed to be replaced- changed out the timing belt and everything that needed to be changed out- its an excellent daily & off-road rig- I over maintain my rigs! -also I live in the middle of the desert! Older Toyota 4×4 rigs are the best... It was well worth it!
I like fixing older cars because you learn about cars while doing it. I’ve learned so much fixing my 20 year old car. I don’t look at it as me wasting my money because I bought the car for 2k but that was years ago it’s not worth that now. I look at it as value I’m I getting any value out of this car and yes I am I’m learning about cars and I’m learning a new skill mechanics.
My 2015 Silver Toyota Prius hasn't had any mechanical problems whatsoever at 123k miles, and I'm thinking about keeping it for the longhaul and these are the future work orders I plan to have done to make it last, starting with the least expensive and ending with the most expensive. Note, I've already done the basics such as fluid replacements: Future Work Orders Replace Serpentine Belt $100-200 Replace CVT Belt - parts and labor: $400-$800 Replace Head Gasket and have cylinder head machined as necessary for gasket replacement replace Cylinder Head bolts clean Exhaust Gas Regulator(EGR) replace Timing Chain file Cams inspect Water Pump retighten Engine Mounting Bolts
2:58 there’s plenty of older Japanese sport compact cars that are appreciating in value. You can buy one for $2000 from someone who doesn’t know what they have, and with a little cleaning and repairs have it worth $6000 or more.. and each year it’ll increase in value
Your video is a good question. I bought a 2010 Accord Coupe EX. Put a 40,000 mile JDM K24A engine in it because the previous owner neglected it. I have a total of $4,000 in it now…. It could now run for maybe 20 more years with minimal maintenance. You are right. It took a lot of time and needed more than I thought, like brakes. Total repairs cost $3,000. This 8th generation Accord is a good platform.
For most of my life I buy them when people are "exiting" - 7-10 years and around 100k miles. I just fix them myself and invest the savings - its worked great over many years allowing me to buy whatever I want now - and I still buy used cars lol. If you drive cheap cars you pay cash for, you can skip collision insurance too and save a fortune. If you crash it, just get another cheap car and you'll still save a bunch from insurance premiums not paid.
Me too. I fix it myself, what I can’t fix my friend fixes, and if my friend can’t fix it in those rare instances, I take it to a mechanic,. No shame is not being able to tackle a thorny problem or diagnosis.
I have a 2000 Lexus GS300 Platinum, that I bought 8 yrs ago with 200k on it. I paid 4500 for it. I bought it because it had a strong service history. The car now has 280k on it. I do all mechanical work to it myself. Replaced alternator at 220k , Rebuilt front suspension at 230k, new front rotors and pads at 250k , spark plugs , coil packs and valve cover gaskets , new upper and lower radiator hoses, T belt and WP, thermostat at 260k. Fluid change on the transmission at 270k. Used a 12 volt marine pump to suck it out where the transmission dipstick is. Did one quart a week 6X. Worked out good. Everything works great except two door lock actuators which I will fix eventually. Car is super clean people can’t believe it’s almost 25 yrs old. Goal is 400k on this 2JZ original engine and trans. Maybe more.
I got my daughter a barn find. 2000 chevy s10. Sat for about a decade. Im a retired mechanic and the restore is coming along really good. No rust outs in the frame. I pulled the bed off and fixed a couple things. I am not laying on the ground at all. The biggest problem was that everything leaked!!!LOL😁
AMD, thanks again. I spent $10k fixing problems on my 2013 LX570 (bought at $26k) which had 125k miles on it which included a new head gasket. It feels like a brand new LX. What I was worried about was what to do with it from here. I had slowly upgraded cars over time to the LX, starting from a LS to an RX350 and then to this one. I would sell the old one and buy the new one cash, getting a slightly better car each trade up. Now that I've reached the LX, I'd like to keep it long-term, but didn't know exactly when the "end date" would be. I thought when wheels fall off, but wasn't sure if there was another option to consider. Glad to know if my goal is longevity, given the stats provided above on the LX, I think I could just try and drive this thing to a million miles by following the maintenance schedule provided by this channel. What a time to be alive.
I bought a new Suburban in 1987 and kept it 31 years. I think the last two sets of tires cost more than it was worth. But I always consider how many more miles an auto expense will get me. New tires, another 6 years or 40,000 miles. I put 2 transmissions, 2 radiators, valve cover gaskets, tires, brakes and oil changes in that truck. I kept every receipt and it cost me almost exactly $10,000 in repairs in 31 years. But parts were getting very hard to find, mostly plastic stuff. And we were 3 years from retirement and decided to replace it because we wanted a new car in retirement. And if we get 31 years out of our Ford Flex, I will be 92 when it needs to be replaced, and at the very least I may not be driving anymore by then! And to be honest, that Suburban was the most poorly made vehicle I have ever owned. The Flex, so far has only needed tires.
I’m hoping to get 30 years minimum from my 03 suburban… body rust is the only real issue with it but I plan on getting it fully restored in a couple years…… nothing beats pre ‘07 ‘burbans👌
Awesome video. I have a 90 honda accord with 225,000 miles on it and I bought it for $500 back in 2022 with 197,000 miles on it. It runs and drives very well, I did put in about $6,000 into it since then. Between tires, reman automatic transmission, timing belt with water pump, and an all new front suspension including the rack and pinion. There is very little rust, and the only thing wrong with it is that the a/c doesn't work. I get people taking pictures of it and asking me what I've done to it. My favorite thing is to see their reaction when I say it's a $500 car that runs and drives.
Well it’s a 6,500 car after those repairs lol but i get what your saying. Your AC problem could be many things hopefully there’s no leak if the refrigerant leaked out the compressor won’t turn on because of the pressure switch. You can test if the compressor works by jumping out the compressor clutch relay if the compressor comes on it’s then at least you know the compressor is good because that’s the most expensive part to replace. Good luck.
@ryans413 i was told that the compressor is shot, which means that I would also replace the receiver drier and possibly the condenser. I found a genuine denso compressor and receiver drier for like $250 from rock auto. I would have to take it somewhere to get the system evacuated and recharged. I'm just not sure if I want to fix it yet.
@ evaporator core could be shot too and that’s in the dash could try to flush it out. But I get it I live where it gets hot so AC is a main priority for me.
I recently bought a 2005 sienna with 410,000kms for 3500 dollars and i put another 3000 into im as soon as i got it because i wanted to be 100% mechanical sound. And i have no regrets what so ever. Compare that to a new sienna, they are 60k here in canada. 6500 on my 2005 will save me so much more than a siennas gas saving...
When talking old cars, cars 25 to 35 years old in New Zealand is a common sight. And some (definitely not all) are still in very nice condition and those ones will probably do another 25 years.
In a ideal , perfect world , an exact cloning of AMD x 1 ,000,000 would final address the vast landscape of unethical and shady dealings of car mechanics across America . Appreciate all of your practical and insightful commentary . Merry Christmas !
Excellent presentation. Thank you. The key is to buy a reliable vehicle such as a Toyota and then do a high level of maintenance as you document. You also have to keep things repaired as you go and not let them pile up. Repair bodywork, dents and chips. Repair cracked windshields. Repair torn/worn interior items. Repair oil and coolant leaks. Once a person stops keeping things "repaired/maintained", the days are numbered for the vehicle. My biggest fear is having a virtually perfect vehicle with 300/400 thousand miles and some distracted driver hits me and totals it leaving me with an insurance check for a fraction of its value to me.
This is exactly why I drive a Toyota Yaris. They do not need extensive work, frequently. It makes it easier to keep up on the minor routine maintenance without feeling like I lost too much if something, god forbid, happened to it.
Dang you nailed the insurance part. Bought a $500 truck, put 4k fixing it up. Got into a accident, showed all receipts.. insurance added $200 on to the paid out 😂
I have a 2005 Ford F150 with 112, 000 miles on it. I had a new set of Cooper 10 ply tires and some front end 11:41 work at 109,000 miles. I know at some point I will have to do a timing chain and a few other things on it. It has a 5.4 3 valve engine which will have to have this done. Approx cost $3000. No rust, but paint somewhat faded. That $3,000 seems to be a better investment than a new $50,000 pickup with payments. I only drive this truck about 7,000 miles a year. Basically the truck is solid other than the engine stuff.
I fixed my 16 year old Toyota with 230000km and it is like new again. Changed timing chain, fixed automatic transmission. Rebuild breaksystem completely. Spend a full polish. It was totally worth it. Love it to drive it🎉 for the next 200000km
Love this video because I am about to make this decision on my old car. I think I am more emotion attached to it (Kids learn to drive on it, to date, graduated from High school,/College....) more than logical mechanical reason. Thanks for the video.
Good advice. Everyones situation is different and it is important to make well informed decisions. My father and I used to run an autobody repair business and a few times I advised my customers to get rid of their vehicles, rather than repair them, due to extensive rust damage making the vehicle unsafe to drive. Sometimes after repairing and painting a customers car they had the impression that it was just like new. I agreed that it looked really nice, but if they had the funds, they might want to consider buying something better. I repaired the holes and outer rust damage, but I didn't fix what I couldn't see. In another year or so more holes would likely appear. I just made them aware of what was coming down the road leaving the decision up to them. Growing up I have known a lot of young people who bought an old car as their first car and soon fell head first into a money pit. Life is full of learning experiences and I try to learn as much as I can from others rather than rely on the school of hard knocks.
You described basically my exact scenario, I have a 2003 Camry that needs Struts, brakes, exhaust work, O2 sensor and a few little things. Im fixing some issues myself and keeping the car running because its in great condition with only 188km or 116k miles.
To expand upon my experience in the comment below, around 8 or so years ago the clutch on my then 22 year old DSM went out and the car wouldn't move. It also needed some other work, especially a manual transmission that get popping out of 1st gear, and the costs of fixing both issues and several more minor ones was way more than I was willing and able to spend at the time, so I just parked it on the street for as long as I could, then stored it in an elderly neighbor's driveway, with her permission of course, when the inspection expired and I had to turn in the plates. Thankfully I didn't need the car day to day and not long after my dad gave me his old car when he moved abroad. Eventually the neighbor got sick and it looked like she wouldn't be around for long, so I had to make a quick decision, either fix the car and spend whatever it took to do it, or sell it and move on. Thankfully, by then I had gained quite a bit of experience fixing cars by working on my dad's old car, which was in so-so condition when he gave it to me. So I decided to fix it myself, saving a lot of money that way, instead of selling it for the $1000-$1500 I would have gotten for it at the time in the condition that it was in. And when I was done, I'd sell my dad's old car to help pay for the fixes to my car. My car needed a lot of work by then, in addition to a new clutch and fixing the transmission issue, the brakes had seized due to sitting outside for several years unused, there was quite a bit of rust (that thankfully turned out to be mostly surface rust with some minor pitting), and the tires were dry rotted. Plus a bunch of deferred maintenance like new belts including the timing and balance shaft belts and the idlers, tensioners and water pump, new filters, and so on. Long story short, I ended up addressing all of these issues. First off I did what had to be done to get the car in decent enough shape to get it on the road safely again so it could pass inspection and be registered and insured again. This meant replacing the clutch and rebuilding all 4 calipers, which I did. I also removed a ton of rust and painted it, but punted on fixing the transmission as that was way beyond my capabilities at the and I could still drive the car in all but 1st gear. But over the next few years I dealt with all the other issues, including rebuilding the transmission, which I did myself. All told it cost around $6000 or so, not including all the tools I had to buy. But I think I made the right decision. Instead of selling my car for next to nothing and driving around a beater instead that was a lot less enjoyable to drive than my car, I got to keep my old car, and once I sell my dad's old car (for various reasons I haven't been able to yet), even allowing for what it cost me to fix it, I will have spent way less than I would likely have had I sold both cars and bought a decent used car, let alone a new one, which I definitely didn't afford. Much of that $6000 was deferred maintenance, tires, clutch, belts, etc. I put new, quality, mostly OEM parts on it, did what I believe was really good work (car runs great btw), saved a lot of money, increased my car's value quite a bit (being a 1G DSM with AWD, turbo & manual transmission in good and essentially stock condition makes it pretty desirable among people who are into DSMs), and got to keep a car I was sentimentally attached to. Plus, I'm not really a "car person", so I don't need all the latest bells and whistles and am not looking to race it. Had I decided to sell it, I would have had to either drive my dad's old car, which worked just fine but wasn't "fun", or sell it too and spend a lot of money on another car that may or may not have been in as good condition as my car is now, even with the money I got from selling both cars. So I think I made the right decision. Of course the fact that I was able to do all the work myself factors heavily into that, and had I gotten it done by pros, it likely would have been prohibitively expensive and not necessarily the smart thing to do. YMMV, of course, as each case is different.
Drove my Pontiac Sunbird 225,000 miles through 18 years. Minor repairs here and there still FAR cheaper than a payment. Only traded it in because I was ready. Even then I cried
Love Pontiac I have a 2004 Grand Am with 206,000 miles still going no major issues. I’d love to get one of the Grand Prix or a GTO but if I go down that road it be hard to find parts.
@@JasperJokerII I have been on top of the oil changes. Transmission to didn’t flush it just dropped the pan and changed the filter and measured what came out and filled it up again.
My husbands 2004 corolla is still going strong with routine maintenance. He did have to pay 2k a few years ago on bigger things, but other than that, it's been great.
This video hit the nail on the head for me. Got a 2000 buick regal with 400k miles. 2nd transmission but OEM engine. Has every kinda leak, and so many wore out parts I think the only thing that's good is the tires and wheels. KBB says it's worth $225.00
My take is with trucks. A new truck in Canada is 75K and upwards. So a ton of people are throwing 8K into a truck for a new engine or transmission and getting a few more years out of it, because trucks are priced way out of range. Need body work, spend the money and keep the truck on the road. My truck is 12 years old now, and unless its gets totalled in an accident, I will repair whatever I can to keep it road worthy. If the engine blew tomorrow, I would buy a new crate engine and replace it.
I will be forever thankful to you, you changed my life I will continue to speak on your behalf for the world to hear that you saved me from huge financial debt with just a little trade, thank you Jihan Wu you're such a life saver
Appreciate the video… folks often confuse COST, PRICE and VALUE. Just because it may COST more than the PRICE of the vehicle on the market does *not* mean the COST is greater than the VALUE to that person. When you buy a car, you buy all the unknown issues with that car too…
Depends on the vehicle because 8k is a lot cheaper than 45-80 grand depending on the vehicle. I know I did it. 2003 GMC Sierra body and interior near mint needs new engine at 200k miles due to last owner not doing service like he should have. New remanufactured engine (Jasper engine in this case) installed 5k. Transmission was done 50k miles ago its good. New truck with same features 60k. 2003 models were very reliable and the 2024 models not so much. In that case getting a new engine was the best route to go. That being said the huge negative is one accident trucks totaled instead of being repaired so you have to hope you do not have an accident. I will take my chances with the 2003 in a year it will be paid off again.
Good video. Feel better. I have a plan. My Car is a tool, not an investment. A to B transport. I look after her, maintain her and we review after each MOT.
Good discussion AMD. For myself, I can do almost anything on a car so I can get away with some stuff other people are not able to. Plus, I really like cars and understand them. Thanks for your videos.
Great video. I've always thought that one of the most important things in owning a car is when to sell it. Too early, and you lose too much in depreciation. Too late, and you spend a fortune in repairs.
In my country, there is a huge market for foreign used car parts and engines. People import them by the container full from Japan and other countries. An average Toyota used engine for sedan will go around the equivalent of US$ 1000. They work well. Some years ago, I replaced an engine on my old Nissan vehicle and it cost around US$ 300 (Nissans are somehow a lot cheaper), and it worked good. Other foreign used original parts are worth it over buying new aftermarket parts that fail faster. At least where I live, it is definitely worth it fixing your old car. Used cars also sell at a lot higher price than I see used cars selling in the US, so saying you're going to junk a car to spend a lot of money to purchase another old car does not make sense.
This video here is exactly why this is the best car channel on RUclips.
Agreed
Es la verdad.
Fully agree
Well, it's going to be tough beating Chris Fix. But def a proud 2nd.
In the world for hardcore fans
My mechanic has retired and I really trusted him. He was honest and charged reasonable rates. At times, he didn't want to work on my car, a '91 Corolla, because he said the repair was worth more than the car. At 300K, he told me I had taken a gasoline engine to the edge of its envelope. At one point, I had the transmission rebuilt and it cost me $1900 (it really only needed a 5th gear synchro but I just had them do it all). This was at around 427K miles. He took a long look at me and finally said, "Do you have an emotional attachment to this car? Because you could get one with about 150K on it for $1500." I told him that I love it more than life itself. I might have even said I planned to be buried in it. It is the only car I have ever owned since new. It is a long, sad story but I took that car to 634K and it was still getting well over 40MPG (manual trans). I don't regret a penny spent on it. I now have another '91 Corolla I bought 6 years ago with just under 59K on it and when it arrived, it looked museum quality, showroom new. It was so clean-everywhere- I would have gladly LICKED ANY surface on it! I just hope that everyone can find a car that they love as much as I love my Corolla. Cheers
Beautiful story. May I ask what started the emotional attachement? Was it a gift from your parents, your wedding gift, or road trip memories with wife and children? 634 000 miles is a car`s paradise dream!
I hear you about emotional attachment. '93 Escort bought brand new and kept until 2019, after my mom passed in 2017. Was quite reliable because always maintained since being bought new. But it was honestly a dinky little car, and not worth fixing after the rear struts rusted out. You have to keep your head and let common sense come in at some point.
That's some dedication!
I share the feeling! my BMW e39 i know know its an old BMW but damn It i love It! I may buy others Cars but i love to keep this one as good as the day It came from the dealership
I understand you, believe me. What killed the car in the end?
Thank you! A car is not an investment - it is an appliance with utility like a refrigerator. An expense.
Ya i think according to "Rich Dad Poor Dad" author, i think he calls them liability.
@@zedrico8577 Rich dad author sounds like he has only lived in a city. A vehicle living rural isnt a liability, its a necessity
@virgil3241 hes is only speaking in financially liability. Cars are not an asset or investment. I do agree that cars are necessary, i lived in a small down with no busses, and its brutal. But if you want to financially well off always be aware that your car is always going to drain your money, and have a plan.
@@zedrico8577 Oh for sure, but if we lived our lives with everything is an asset or investment, no one would be married or own anything, besides the necessities to keep us alive. Any vehicle I own is for the long term, or until that stage of my life is over. My plan for my truck is, I keep it until Im dead.
@@virgil3241 amazing. What truck do you drive?
If it’s a good vehicle to start with, like my 94 Camry or my little 04 Tacoma, and not rusted excessively, absolutely worth it.
My rust free Calif 92 stick shift Camry went 500k miles before the head gasket blew. Gasket was weeping 100k miles but since it was starting to smoke I just let it go. Upon replacing it with a used engine for $500 I took apart the old one. Turned out that it was smoking from the valve stem seals but by then, because I let the old engine sit, water got into it and locked it up. I wonder now if I had replaced the seals and gasket if I'd still have the original engine. Car is running again beautifully as before maybe for another 200k. I installed a tow hitch and fabricated a small trailer which I tow with the car to pick up scrap and washing machines that I sell as a side hustle.
Extremely true, I have 95 wrangler, a 97 F-150, and a 01 Frontier. I've also been a tech for a number of years and can rebuild all 3 of them from the ground up I'll keep em until the frames rust out.
@@kathrineculver696 That can be prevented easily, especially with someone of Your skills. In the salt belts, it’s routine maintenance if You want to keep them , and never ever use any of that rubberized undercoating crap.
The bigger problem is finding a mechanic that's not trying to rip you off and have you spending money on needless repairs. Wish there were more like you!
im glad i am able to repair most issues on my cars. i cant imagine having to pay for all repairs.
Same by me. But it's more simpliest thing with old cars than the newer ones.
This is a very important point not explicitly discussed (implicit in AMD's discussion of cost of repairs). For those cannot DIY hardly any the maintenance and repair, holding a vehicle past 10 years or 100k miles becomes considerably more difficult with each passing year, as those expensive repairs represent a large % of vehicle value and could add up to a downpayment on a new car. For those can DIY, this decision point is much further away, maybe 20 years or 200k miles, maybe even further.
@@bokononisti2820 Agreed, if you dont do DIY it is best to run a relaible car in the 5 to 10 year old range. For those of us who DIY there are no limits, just like aircraft we can keep swapping out bits and make them last almost forever.
@@bokononisti2820 Car is a business but not for the owners.
My wife is glad I'm able to repair most issues (two head gasket) on her car. She can't imagine having to pay for all repairs😂😆🤣😉
Wish we had honest mechanics like you here in South Africa.
I think you have them but you gotta find them. Same in the states find a skilled honest mechanic and treat him well.
@@Smokeythewelderit's South Africa, man lol. Finding a good and honest mechanic isn't cheap or easy. It's like finding consistent electricity in South Africa.
I'm an ex technician who worked for an independent repair shop in Cape Town. It's actually very scary to see how they ripped people who don't know any better off. They even deliberately did stuff to people's cars in order to ensure return work.
Thank goodness I learnt the trade, and can take care of my own car. I don't trust any shop whatsoever. 😥😿🤷♂️
@@majicdude88 reminds me of Iraq. Go in for a battery, get a battery but they swap out your alternator for one that barely functions. In that case youtube is your friend. Good luck.
Yes...Just spent $10,000 AUD on my 1995 Lexus LS400. No rust at all in here in dry region. Owned the car for 27 years, it needed EVERY SINGLE suspension part replaced as Australian roads are brutal. Some parts not available or have been discontinued therefore some parts replaced with not genuine. Rear axle carrier (knuckle) bushings available aftermarket, Toyota no longer manufactures the coil springs, thankfully available from KYB (OEM)...Car drives like it did 27 years ago...TOTALLY WORTH IT. Insured for $10k... Buy price in 1995; $162,000 AUD (yes, the LS400 was crazily expensive in Australia, consequently were a popular leased business vehicle). Cheers from AUSTRALIA!!!!!
Yup it was $110,000 usd
@@ocularpressure4558 and worth every cent! ... well, except the import tariff!
@ yea amazing cars still
I do my best to repair/replace any mechanical (suspension parts) on my own. Currently, my 2005 (bought new) RAV4 has 344k mi on it, and I was surprised that it still has good pickup speed. I'm hoping it can go beyond 500k mi 🤞.
Learn to fix yourself and use aftermarket parts... remarkably cheap. Just restored a 2000 LS400 that still looked new but needed a fair bit of mechanical work which I did for
10:35 the corollary to your insurance anecdote is that insuring a car from 1999 will cost $40 a month and insuring a car from 2024 will cost $400 a month.
My 2007 A4 insurance is $50/mo. That's one of many reasons I love it.
Not necessarily, unless you’re going from a regular car to luxury or electric. My 21 Grand Cherokee L is $30 a month to insure…
@@antilogism Wow! who's your insurance? I pay about $100/mo for my R8 (I've had 3 A4's but don't remember what insurance cost for those)
bare min on my 98 Nissan is 80 a month
I pay 155 total a month for full coverage on a 15 impreza, 17 forte, and 09 g8
A car is part of the family. Some of us get attached 😂
So true! Our Toyotas are definitely family members.😊
I have a car that’s no longer road safe but I can’t get rid of it it’s parked in the garage it developed rust so now it just something I look at for the memories but if I drive it the car would start to fall apart.
Agreed. I always look back at every car I have sold as it drives away. There's something I appreciate about a reliable vehicle.
I purchased a 2008 Volvo S80 T6 with 110,000 miles on it because the Haldex pinion shaft bearing was making noise that intruded into the inside of the cabin. It leaked oil from the vacuum pump and the water pump was leaking antifreeze and the check engine light was on and the blower motor was making allot of noise and the brakes needed replacing and the seller deducted the estimated repair costs from the residual value of the car. Paid $1,200 for the car and 4 years later I am still driving it. Did the repair work myself for a fraction of the cost because I paid for the parts and my labor is on me. Today it has 151,000 miles new tires and I still have not spent the residual value of the car on the car. So if I sold it today I would still make a profit. Being able to do your own repairs really can make a difference. Not having the knowledge of car repairs is really offset today by the internet and people like you sharing their knowledge and know how.
Drive It Forever is a great book on this topic. They recommend repairs unless the repair exceeds half the cost of the vehicle. This applies to any mechanical item.
Maybe on an expensive vehicle. If you own a cheap old vehicle then its almost always worth it to repair.
One of the best info videos yet In my humble opinion
My 03 suburban is worth $4k and a reman engine is $4k……. But a new suburban is $80k so what makes more sense to spend my money on? Apparently I should just throw away a good vehicle because it needs repairs😂
As someone who is allergic to car payments and car salesmen, I can appreciate a mechanic that can provide advice and even tell me what risks are involved if there are variables (unknowns) at play.
My 2003 GMC Sierra and it’s 5.3 have kept me payment free and on the road reliably.Maintenance is the key and luck helps too.Still rust free in the South 22 years later.
Better to buy an older car.
Today's cars are too expensive, cheaper quality, and not as reliable as before.
I had a transmission rebuilt. The rebuild was more than the car was worth, but it was worth it. For a few thousand dollars, I got the car to run for another three years. It was far cheaper than buying a new car. I finally sold the car for 3k. I should have kept it but it was turning into a reliability problem and I could no longer risk it breaking down.
5:40 - YES! It's always a "compared to what?" decision! Yes, the repairs may cost more than the car, but what else would you do instead?
Buy a new car? I don't think new cars are built as well as the older cars, but that's my opinion.
Buy a used car? With used car, you get the previous owner(s) maintenance history which may be largely unknown.
Exactly my thoughts. Unfortunately for my car, the rust might kill it before the engine or transmission breaks. In that case, I will purchase another one (8th gen Civic) and have the engines, transmissions and other good parts swapped. Still cheaper than a new car that isn't built very well.
New cars are certainly not as reliable as previous generations because manufacturers are forced into designs that sacrifice reliabilty/repairability for lower emissions.
For example, an under sized engine with a turbo is less reliable an adequately sized engine with no turbo - but every new (gas) engine has a turbo because they can't meet the emissions requirements without it.
Putting 4,000 into a 5000 dollar is still cheaper than a car that is a few years old today.... this is why I'm probably not going to get rid of my camry and tundra....
I was in this situation about a month ago. Need a new clutch at 267k miles, along with the motor mounts, suspension, evap leak, possibly brakes. I had some money saved up and decided it’s time for a new ride. Went from a 2006 model to a 2016 model with low miles. Couldn’t be happier. Had a lot of good memories and adventures out of that old car.
When my first new car, a 92 Camry, was ten years old (and in great shape) I was wanting to buy a new car. My mom (who was frugal) told me: “You have had service from that car. Maybe it is best to part with it while you still have those good memories.” I still get a new car about every ten years and still have value in my old one.
As a 3rd gen Camry owner I’m definitely watching this
AMD, Once again you have given us plenty to think about and I hope the younger generation can learn some valuable lessons. I threw far too much money at old jalopies😭 before I finally saw the light and bought a new car made by Toyota. I have taken good care of my one and only new car. Today that 'new' car is just a few months short of 20 years old and it runs as well as ever
We are so lucky to have this man and his family as a valued member of our American society.
Sir I forget which country from which you came. I'm glad you're not there now.
Its not just the USA who are benefiting, AMD is helping Toyota owners world wide and is probably Toyata's greates salesman
His names Ahmed, no? Assuming he's from one of the dozens of countries we invaded and destabilized, forcing him like countless others to leave everything behind. Smh.
Yes you are right .. I am from saudi Arabia and watched most amd videos 😂
He is from Iraq his parents were in the oil industry. His first car was a 1980 Datsun.
@@af8828there is always one
Inusrance on new cars is killer. So much cheaper just to fix stuff until rust takes the car over.
we dont have rust in alabama
I live in Canada and my car has no rust. It’s not winter that rusts cars it’s chemicals the USA throws down chemicals on the roads to break the ice that’s what’s rusting your cars away. Here they will plow the roads and throw down gravel for traction. Anywhere there is ice they will use hot water to melt it then they shovel it off the roads. But they only clear the main roads the side streets are hell to drive on you need to have winter driving skills. But my cars been through many winter here not one ounce of rust.
Thanks for the balanced perspective on this. We recently had to make this decision when our 2010 Toyota Sienna with over 200k miles on it unfortunately had "catastrophic engine faliure". Got multiple quotes to fix it.
$5k -$10k to fix it depending on many different factors.
Just ended up deciding to sell it and bought a new car. While I dont like the payment, it was the best option for our family at this time.
Hope you got another Toyota.
Keep your car healthy by changing your oil regularly . 😊
Some oil a day keeps the rod knock away
And by spraying off any road salt/debris from the frame/fender liners using a pressure washer every week or two
Uber Eats delivery driver here, my 06 Accord has 505,000 km. You just solved my dilemma. Thank you.
Incredible my car has just over 206,000km. I know it can go another 100,000km easy.
I had a mechanic tell me to get rid of a car that was throwing CEL transmission codes after I changed the trans fluid.
Ignored that advice, kept driving it, CEL went away after 10k miles, I’ve driven that car for many years with no issue.
Pre 2000 cars are the best and will run forever - worth every penny to fix!
This predates can-bus networks and other strategies to maximize fuel economy, emissions requirements etc. Mercedes and BMW were at their peak, before they started loading them up with electronics. NEW cars drive awesome, but they will not age well. The electronics components get discontinues, or are extremely pricey, BODY parts also are not as available after 10 years, as well. Picking the RIGHT used year/make/model, and getting a through evaluation before purchase is everything. Finding one from a neighbor, relative etc... often the best way to get a vehicle with a known history.
I had a client come in with a Citroen yesterday.... it was from the early 1970s. Unbelievable... had modern looking headlamp lens.... GLASS.... and the headlights are cable tied to the steering, so you are lighting your travel path! Vehicle also had hydraulic suspension..... brakes on the axle inboard, not at the wheel hubs...... the list goes on. This vehicle was what many would call "alien tech".
As long as you can still get OEM parts. It is getting more difficult even for popular vehicles like my ‘97 Land Cruiser. Many pieces are NLA or not avail. in North America. And non-OEM parts are Chinese junk now for the most part. Even from NAPA.
@@donleamon8653I have a 2004 car it’s almost 21 years old and I picked it because parts for it are still widely available.
We are of a very similar mindset where newer isn't always better.
The best clients I ever had are the ones that allow me to form a partnership with them in the care of their vehicles. Those are the people that are vested in the maintenance and care and we work together to formulate a plan for the best reliability and longevity of their vehicles.
Thank you sir Ahmed for this incredible award winning film. This video will help millions of people.
With how modern cars are built worse and more complex with more expensive components. I think despite a very low money value, the reliability and cheapness of maintenance of certain older cars, outshines the monetary value.
I'm with you but you also have to look at the availability of parts for the model you want to keep. Is there good aftermarket support? Many manufacturers stop making parts for cars over 10 years old and the parts stores and junkyards start to dry up.
One perk of living in California is the frames don't rust so as long as there is quality parts available you can keep going and going. Especially if you can do some of it yourself. It's a tool that you are spending to fulfill a need. Like a washing machine. How much can you get done for X dollars without endangering people or cheating people.
I got Toyota 4-runner 2001 /3.4 V6 ,bought brand new with 30 ml on it . Today I have 627.000+ml . Never gonna get anything else ,but Toyota ....
You evidently kept it well serviced. Most people don’t comprehend that is the cheapest insurance available for longevity. Sad to say , but the majority of people nowadays just treat them like appliances.
Amazing. I'm at 235,000 miles on my 2001 4runner. Will need to drop about 2k soon for suspension replacement, but I'm expecting this car to go another 10 years or more. 627,000 miles is insane!
Wow, my 98 T100 with the same engine has 325,000 miles and i thought that was a lot.
I got a ride a few years ago to the airport in a Toyota SUV with 525K miles on it. Took a pic of the odometer because I thought no one would believe me. The driver said no engine work had been done, but a trans was installed @ around 300K miles. I wonder what maintenance was ever done on the trans before it went out.
‘99 4Runner, 515,000 miles. Very few parts have been replaced except brakes, exhaust and 1 radiator.
I see it this way:
1. if I like the car, I fix it.
2. If I don't like the car and it's an utility, I will still fix it, because buying a second hand car is risky. At least I know the condition mine is in.
Salutation from the Great North 51, I recently put $5k on my 120,000 miles 07 Fj, front/rear suspensions, new lca and uca, it still run great. I was going to buy a 2025 Land Cruiser or 4Runner. I decided to wait and see on these new models. I still have my first car, a 1985 Celica Coupe with 99,500km.. I paid $k34 for the Fj in 2007, it was the first major repairs in 17 years, I don't think new Toyota will ever be that reliable ever... Keep up the excellent work you do!
Nice. Hold on to it
@@marcpikas2859 The Celica for sure the Fj 1-2 years maybe..
A nice convergence of analytical thinking and rational decision making based on personal finance. Well done!
I have an 8 year old RAV4. Still looks and runs like new. So far, I’ve only replaced the rear shocks and the front brake pads/rotors and performed regular maintenance (including transmission, cooling system, differential, and transfer case drain and fill. Did all the work myself (Thanks CCN for all the instructional videos, couldn’t have done it without you!). I think this car will easily last 15 to 20 years.
This is an excellent video. So much wisdom. Thank you!
This is exactly my dilemma now and love your opinions, you’re just a real professional tutor sir!!
Best video on the internet today! My daily driver is turning into a money-pit. I have started paying serious bucks just to keep her running. I will consider your advice. It's either keep paying or cut and run and buy another.
It is is a fact the fewer cars you buy during the course of your working life the more money you will have in retirement. If it isn't rusted out fix it.
man, so true.
This is very informative video! Number one channel about maintenance and quality information in my book!
I always look at what getting another car that will last another 10 plus years.
I was very pleased to hear you say it might be worth it to fix the car you have. I have done exactly that and I got another 10 years!
And my basic calculation is dollars per mile. And that one is best when you get used good quality cars with low to moderate miles on them.
I live in Nova Scotia. Trying to find a used car without any rust at an affordable price is a physical impossibility.
Nova Scotia winter; snow ice salt + huge humidity level from the ocean = perfect mix to corrode everything 😮
Same here in Michigan, all tho manufactures are doing a much better job in the last 10 years. Look into using a lanolin based undercoating in a spray can yearly. Doesn't take much time to DIY.
@@ArtVan-s4l : I get my car sprayed every year. The problem is, the idiots who buy the cars new do not, as they just don't care... they trade the cars in after the rust has begun. So the undercoating can only slow the rust down, but cannot stop it. Therefore keeping a car for decades, which I wish I could do, is impossible. And I absolutely despise the next car I'll have to buy when my current 2011 Impala reaches the end of the road, because anything less than a decade old now is a pile of electronic computerized overly complex crap.
@@dhache1195 : Plus, they use a brine of calcium chloride with salt which accelerates corrosion. It makes for an extremely aggressive rust that is a bright orange as the metal oxidizes. I almost bet the auto manufacturers must subsidize the spreading of this brine on our roads so our cars rust out faster.
Barely started watching the video right now have a 07 FJ cruiser with almost no rust on the frame. At 151k miles. I plan to keep it running and do an engine swap when needed. They don't make them no more. Just hope they have 07 engines by then. Do want to buy a Corolla hatchback while they still make them in Japan.
... and you don't have all that computer crap in it too. Good for you!
I’m pretty sure they are still manufactured for the UAE,
@@LibertyOrD___h discontinued in 2022.
As I've commented on your channel a few times before, nearly 4 years ago (April 2021) i bought my 1 owner 2002 Lexus ES300 with 160,500 miles on it. Researched the service history on Lexus's website which isn't running anymore. Timing belt, water pump and valve cover replaced at 88k miles. no other major repairs/maintenance were done. Car fax showed a minor accident in the rear quarter nothing major.
Soon after buying it the rear struts starting leaking and within the first 2 years i had to replace the OEM Alternator, starter, exhaust flex pipe, Front brake calipers, all ignition coils and plugs. After the coil on cylinder #1 was misfiring, decided to change all 6 with DENSO coils & plugs. Knowing the history of this wonderful car, the awesome indestructable 1MZ-FE engine and the fact that i only paid $4.,495, I was in for the long haul. Now with 185k miles, 2nd timing belt & water pump replaced earlier this year, No transmission issues, shifts perfectly, I'm keeping this car for as long as i can. Retiring in 3-4 years and don't have any intention of replacing it. Interior is as good as new and every button/switch still works. best Build quality in this 4th gen ES.
I have a 2007 mustang v6 that I just bought from one of my instructor's sons this past summer. Been replacing little things here and there, mostly suspension work since its been sitting a while, and its been nothing but a great and fun car since. It has almost 168,000 miles on it, which I feel like is a lot for the car but it still drives really great. Trying to maintain it as best as I can for now, but regardless of my experience so far I can't help but think ahead and wonder about stuff like this.
I've still got my 1990 Mustang GT convertible 230,000.00 miles needs a starter bought a 2016 Rav4 with 100,000.00 miles gonna put a starter in the Mustang when it starts getting warm and drive in the summer and just drive the Rav4 in the winter.
They made a RUclips video about a 2005 v-6 Mustang that has 335,000 miles on it and still running great. I am keeping my 2005 v-6 Mustang as my backup car, but I did have to buy a 36 mpg Honda Fit, because the 21 mpg mustang was killing me on gas since I commute 110 miles/day.
While on active duty, I would often listen to “Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers” and their advice on vehicles. I heard them give this opinion, “Every time a car owner turns the ignition key, it will cost them money” It’s that simple. I repair cars as my 3rd career after retiring from the military. I’ve noticed that after COVID, the price of cars and their parts dramatically increased. Please take care of your vehicles.
Another outstanding informative video, thank you.
Over a 24 month period, I faced these decisions head on with my rust free 2002 and 2007 Tundra trucks. The vast majority of rubber parts on my ultra reliable '02 dry rotted from heat & age and they cracked & tore during a violent emergency stop to avoid T-boning a Prius that turn in front of me. I spent money on repairing everything and performing a lot of preventative maintenance while I was at it... money well spent.
I had a plan to upgrade and modify / customize the high mileage '07 Tundra that I bought cheap in 2017, that plan included new springs, shocks, wheels, tires, brakes as well as repairing smaller things that were wearing out or broken. Replacing the 3UR-FE with a low mileage engine 7 years later was not part of my plan, but I was able to modify my plan and make it happen... money well spent.
The lack of car payments and lower insurance costs give the a great deal of freedom, so I will continue to maintain and repair these trucks for as long as it makes sense to do so.
Agreed, cars are not an investment but the emotional value they have for some of us cant be denied, (looking at you with your old lexus ls) some of them we buy not has tools but has fullfillment of old dreams
With car prices these days, unless a car is rusting out it is usually worth fixing.
Not in USA/ Canada. Latin America I have seen engines being re built 20 times. We have cars from 1980 to 2010. Only middle class and above can afford cars newer than 2015!
Lol I'm technically mid-upper class in Costa Rica and can barely afford a 20 year-old Corolla
Seems to me like cars are kind of similar to furnaces. They can last forever with regular maintenance and some do it yourself work, but having a pro work on it costs a fortune and there's always underlying pressure to just buy a new one. With both, there's really only 1 or 2 things that could happen to it where you'd be like 'yeah, time to just get a new one'. As much as I *want* a shiny new car, not having car payments (especially as high as car payments are today) is a nice thing.
I appreciate the content that comes from customer concerns, issues we wrestle with.
I do almost everything myself, so it's definitely what it is worth to me.
Depends... I have two older Lexus & Hilux rigs I definitely fixed up and restored-
88 Longbed Hilux👍🏼
2000 LX-470👍🏼-stripped out the old suspension, put a full Ironman of road off road kit, new CV axles, upper arms, ball joints-everything that needed to be replaced- changed out the timing belt and everything that needed to be changed out- its an excellent daily & off-road rig- I over maintain my rigs! -also I live in the middle of the desert! Older Toyota 4×4 rigs are the best...
It was well worth it!
I have a 2006 Toyota Tundra with 313,000k miles on it and the ac is cold 🥶 no check engine light 💡 leaked a little bit of oil but is a solid ride
I like fixing older cars because you learn about cars while doing it. I’ve learned so much fixing my 20 year old car. I don’t look at it as me wasting my money because I bought the car for 2k but that was years ago it’s not worth that now. I look at it as value I’m I getting any value out of this car and yes I am I’m learning about cars and I’m learning a new skill mechanics.
@ bro me too we me&my friend are working on a project 2006 Toyota Corolla rite now
My 2015 Silver Toyota Prius hasn't had any mechanical problems whatsoever at 123k miles, and I'm thinking about keeping it for the longhaul and these are the future work orders I plan to have done to make it last, starting with the least expensive and ending with the most expensive. Note, I've already done the basics such as fluid replacements:
Future Work Orders
Replace Serpentine Belt $100-200
Replace CVT Belt - parts and labor: $400-$800
Replace Head Gasket and have cylinder head machined as necessary for gasket replacement
replace Cylinder Head bolts
clean Exhaust Gas Regulator(EGR)
replace Timing Chain
file Cams
inspect Water Pump
retighten Engine Mounting Bolts
2:58 there’s plenty of older Japanese sport compact cars that are appreciating in value. You can buy one for $2000 from someone who doesn’t know what they have, and with a little cleaning and repairs have it worth $6000 or more.. and each year it’ll increase in value
Your video is a good question. I bought a 2010 Accord Coupe EX. Put a 40,000 mile JDM K24A engine in it because the previous owner neglected it. I have a total of $4,000 in it now…. It could now run for maybe 20 more years with minimal maintenance. You are right. It took a lot of time and needed more than I thought, like brakes. Total repairs cost $3,000. This 8th generation Accord is a good platform.
For most of my life I buy them when people are "exiting" - 7-10 years and around 100k miles. I just fix them myself and invest the savings - its worked great over many years allowing me to buy whatever I want now - and I still buy used cars lol. If you drive cheap cars you pay cash for, you can skip collision insurance too and save a fortune. If you crash it, just get another cheap car and you'll still save a bunch from insurance premiums not paid.
Me too. I fix it myself, what I can’t fix my friend fixes, and if my friend can’t fix it in those rare instances, I take it to a mechanic,. No shame is not being able to tackle a thorny problem or diagnosis.
I have a 2000 Lexus GS300 Platinum, that I bought 8 yrs ago with 200k on it.
I paid 4500 for it. I bought it because it had a strong service history. The car now has 280k on it. I do all mechanical work to it myself. Replaced alternator at 220k , Rebuilt front suspension at 230k, new front rotors and pads at 250k , spark plugs , coil packs and valve cover gaskets , new upper and lower radiator hoses, T belt and WP, thermostat at 260k. Fluid change on the transmission at 270k. Used a 12 volt marine pump to suck it out where the transmission dipstick is. Did one quart a week 6X. Worked out good. Everything works great except two door lock actuators which I will fix eventually.
Car is super clean people can’t believe it’s almost 25 yrs old. Goal is 400k on this 2JZ original engine and trans. Maybe more.
Happy Christmas to you and yours AMD
please do a update on your Tundra! Merry Christmas!
I got my daughter a barn find. 2000 chevy s10. Sat for about a decade. Im a retired mechanic and the restore is coming along really good. No rust outs in the frame. I pulled the bed off and fixed a couple things. I am not laying on the ground at all. The biggest problem was that everything leaked!!!LOL😁
AMD, thanks again. I spent $10k fixing problems on my 2013 LX570 (bought at $26k) which had 125k miles on it which included a new head gasket. It feels like a brand new LX. What I was worried about was what to do with it from here. I had slowly upgraded cars over time to the LX, starting from a LS to an RX350 and then to this one. I would sell the old one and buy the new one cash, getting a slightly better car each trade up. Now that I've reached the LX, I'd like to keep it long-term, but didn't know exactly when the "end date" would be. I thought when wheels fall off, but wasn't sure if there was another option to consider. Glad to know if my goal is longevity, given the stats provided above on the LX, I think I could just try and drive this thing to a million miles by following the maintenance schedule provided by this channel. What a time to be alive.
I bought a new Suburban in 1987 and kept it 31 years. I think the last two sets of tires cost more than it was worth. But I always consider how many more miles an auto expense will get me. New tires, another 6 years or 40,000 miles. I put 2 transmissions, 2 radiators, valve cover gaskets, tires, brakes and oil changes in that truck. I kept every receipt and it cost me almost exactly $10,000 in repairs in 31 years. But parts were getting very hard to find, mostly plastic stuff. And we were 3 years from retirement and decided to replace it because we wanted a new car in retirement. And if we get 31 years out of our Ford Flex, I will be 92 when it needs to be replaced, and at the very least I may not be driving anymore by then! And to be honest, that Suburban was the most poorly made vehicle I have ever owned. The Flex, so far has only needed tires.
I’m hoping to get 30 years minimum from my 03 suburban… body rust is the only real issue with it but I plan on getting it fully restored in a couple years…… nothing beats pre ‘07 ‘burbans👌
@@LibertyOrD___h I'm in California where rust is almost unheard of.
I love the Gen 2 prius pic! 2007 going strong. 200k miles
Awesome video. I have a 90 honda accord with 225,000 miles on it and I bought it for $500 back in 2022 with 197,000 miles on it. It runs and drives very well, I did put in about $6,000 into it since then. Between tires, reman automatic transmission, timing belt with water pump, and an all new front suspension including the rack and pinion. There is very little rust, and the only thing wrong with it is that the a/c doesn't work. I get people taking pictures of it and asking me what I've done to it. My favorite thing is to see their reaction when I say it's a $500 car that runs and drives.
Well it’s a 6,500 car after those repairs lol but i get what your saying. Your AC problem could be many things hopefully there’s no leak if the refrigerant leaked out the compressor won’t turn on because of the pressure switch. You can test if the compressor works by jumping out the compressor clutch relay if the compressor comes on it’s then at least you know the compressor is good because that’s the most expensive part to replace. Good luck.
@ryans413 i was told that the compressor is shot, which means that I would also replace the receiver drier and possibly the condenser. I found a genuine denso compressor and receiver drier for like $250 from rock auto. I would have to take it somewhere to get the system evacuated and recharged. I'm just not sure if I want to fix it yet.
@ evaporator core could be shot too and that’s in the dash could try to flush it out. But I get it I live where it gets hot so AC is a main priority for me.
@ryans413 That is part of the reason why I'm hesitant to want to fix it. I don't want to rip the dash apart or pay someone to do it.
I recently bought a 2005 sienna with 410,000kms for 3500 dollars and i put another 3000 into im as soon as i got it because i wanted to be 100% mechanical sound. And i have no regrets what so ever.
Compare that to a new sienna, they are 60k here in canada. 6500 on my 2005 will save me so much more than a siennas gas saving...
When talking old cars, cars 25 to 35 years old in New Zealand is a common sight. And some (definitely not all) are still in very nice condition and those ones will probably do another 25 years.
I fixed my 03 camry. Pulled the head. Put inserts in the block and ARP head studs. Took 20hrs car is ready for years again.
So jealous of people who can do this kind of thing on their own. I don't even have a garage, and I live in the rust belt.
In a ideal , perfect world , an exact cloning of AMD x 1 ,000,000 would final address the vast landscape of unethical and shady dealings of car mechanics across America . Appreciate all of your practical and insightful commentary . Merry Christmas !
Excellent presentation. Thank you. The key is to buy a reliable vehicle such as a Toyota and then do a high level of maintenance as you document. You also have to keep things repaired as you go and not let them pile up. Repair bodywork, dents and chips. Repair cracked windshields. Repair torn/worn interior items. Repair oil and coolant leaks. Once a person stops keeping things "repaired/maintained", the days are numbered for the vehicle. My biggest fear is having a virtually perfect vehicle with 300/400 thousand miles and some distracted driver hits me and totals it leaving me with an insurance check for a fraction of its value to me.
Unfortunately any careful driver can have an accident. It may even be caused by bad weather. Life is so unpredictable . But yes I see what you mean.
This is exactly why I drive a Toyota Yaris. They do not need extensive work, frequently. It makes it easier to keep up on the minor routine maintenance without feeling like I lost too much if something, god forbid, happened to it.
Dang you nailed the insurance part. Bought a $500 truck, put 4k fixing it up. Got into a accident, showed all receipts.. insurance added $200 on to the paid out 😂
I have a 2005 Ford F150 with 112, 000 miles on it. I had a new set of Cooper 10 ply tires and some front end 11:41 work at 109,000 miles. I know at some point I will have to do a timing chain and a few other things on it. It has a 5.4 3 valve engine which will have to have this done. Approx cost $3000. No rust, but paint somewhat faded. That $3,000 seems to be a better investment than a new $50,000 pickup with payments. I only drive this truck about 7,000 miles a year. Basically the truck is solid other than the engine stuff.
Yep… keep it
I fixed my 16 year old Toyota with 230000km and it is like new again. Changed timing chain, fixed automatic transmission. Rebuild breaksystem completely. Spend a full polish. It was totally worth it. Love it to drive it🎉 for the next 200000km
Love this video because I am about to make this decision on my old car. I think I am more emotion attached to it (Kids learn to drive on it, to date, graduated from High school,/College....) more than logical mechanical reason. Thanks for the video.
Good advice. Everyones situation is different and it is important to make well informed decisions. My father and I used to run an autobody repair business and a few times I advised my customers to get rid of their vehicles, rather than repair them, due to extensive rust damage making the vehicle unsafe to drive.
Sometimes after repairing and painting a customers car they had the impression that it was just like new. I agreed that it looked really nice, but if they had the funds, they might want to consider buying something better. I repaired the holes and outer rust damage, but I didn't fix what I couldn't see. In another year or so more holes would likely appear. I just made them aware of what was coming down the road leaving the decision up to them.
Growing up I have known a lot of young people who bought an old car as their first car and soon fell head first into a money pit. Life is full of learning experiences and I try to learn as much as I can from others rather than rely on the school of hard knocks.
You described basically my exact scenario, I have a 2003 Camry that needs Struts, brakes, exhaust work, O2 sensor and a few little things. Im fixing some issues myself and keeping the car running because its in great condition with only 188km or 116k miles.
Cant get enough of this channel, love it
To expand upon my experience in the comment below, around 8 or so years ago the clutch on my then 22 year old DSM went out and the car wouldn't move. It also needed some other work, especially a manual transmission that get popping out of 1st gear, and the costs of fixing both issues and several more minor ones was way more than I was willing and able to spend at the time, so I just parked it on the street for as long as I could, then stored it in an elderly neighbor's driveway, with her permission of course, when the inspection expired and I had to turn in the plates. Thankfully I didn't need the car day to day and not long after my dad gave me his old car when he moved abroad.
Eventually the neighbor got sick and it looked like she wouldn't be around for long, so I had to make a quick decision, either fix the car and spend whatever it took to do it, or sell it and move on. Thankfully, by then I had gained quite a bit of experience fixing cars by working on my dad's old car, which was in so-so condition when he gave it to me. So I decided to fix it myself, saving a lot of money that way, instead of selling it for the $1000-$1500 I would have gotten for it at the time in the condition that it was in. And when I was done, I'd sell my dad's old car to help pay for the fixes to my car.
My car needed a lot of work by then, in addition to a new clutch and fixing the transmission issue, the brakes had seized due to sitting outside for several years unused, there was quite a bit of rust (that thankfully turned out to be mostly surface rust with some minor pitting), and the tires were dry rotted. Plus a bunch of deferred maintenance like new belts including the timing and balance shaft belts and the idlers, tensioners and water pump, new filters, and so on.
Long story short, I ended up addressing all of these issues. First off I did what had to be done to get the car in decent enough shape to get it on the road safely again so it could pass inspection and be registered and insured again. This meant replacing the clutch and rebuilding all 4 calipers, which I did. I also removed a ton of rust and painted it, but punted on fixing the transmission as that was way beyond my capabilities at the and I could still drive the car in all but 1st gear. But over the next few years I dealt with all the other issues, including rebuilding the transmission, which I did myself.
All told it cost around $6000 or so, not including all the tools I had to buy. But I think I made the right decision. Instead of selling my car for next to nothing and driving around a beater instead that was a lot less enjoyable to drive than my car, I got to keep my old car, and once I sell my dad's old car (for various reasons I haven't been able to yet), even allowing for what it cost me to fix it, I will have spent way less than I would likely have had I sold both cars and bought a decent used car, let alone a new one, which I definitely didn't afford.
Much of that $6000 was deferred maintenance, tires, clutch, belts, etc. I put new, quality, mostly OEM parts on it, did what I believe was really good work (car runs great btw), saved a lot of money, increased my car's value quite a bit (being a 1G DSM with AWD, turbo & manual transmission in good and essentially stock condition makes it pretty desirable among people who are into DSMs), and got to keep a car I was sentimentally attached to. Plus, I'm not really a "car person", so I don't need all the latest bells and whistles and am not looking to race it.
Had I decided to sell it, I would have had to either drive my dad's old car, which worked just fine but wasn't "fun", or sell it too and spend a lot of money on another car that may or may not have been in as good condition as my car is now, even with the money I got from selling both cars. So I think I made the right decision. Of course the fact that I was able to do all the work myself factors heavily into that, and had I gotten it done by pros, it likely would have been prohibitively expensive and not necessarily the smart thing to do. YMMV, of course, as each case is different.
A FORD CROWN VICTORIA IS ALWAYS WORTH FIXING 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
panther platform for the win
Drove my Pontiac Sunbird 225,000 miles through 18 years. Minor repairs here and there still FAR cheaper than a payment.
Only traded it in because I was ready. Even then I cried
Love Pontiac I have a 2004 Grand Am with 206,000 miles still going no major issues. I’d love to get one of the Grand Prix or a GTO but if I go down that road it be hard to find parts.
@@ryans413 just keep the oil changed.
My motor was still like brand new inside
@@JasperJokerII I have been on top of the oil changes. Transmission to didn’t flush it just dropped the pan and changed the filter and measured what came out and filled it up again.
My husbands 2004 corolla is still going strong with routine maintenance. He did have to pay 2k a few years ago on bigger things, but other than that, it's been great.
Toyota maintained properly will run and run and run.
This video hit the nail on the head for me. Got a 2000 buick regal with 400k miles. 2nd transmission but OEM engine.
Has every kinda leak, and so many wore out parts I think the only thing that's good is the tires and wheels. KBB says it's worth $225.00
My take is with trucks. A new truck in Canada is 75K and upwards. So a ton of people are throwing 8K into a truck for a new engine or transmission and getting a few more years out of it, because trucks are priced way out of range. Need body work, spend the money and keep the truck on the road. My truck is 12 years old now, and unless its gets totalled in an accident, I will repair whatever I can to keep it road worthy. If the engine blew tomorrow, I would buy a new crate engine and replace it.
Hit 240k today. Appreciate you for all the knowledge and nuggets you had thrown my way over the last months. Started with 24k in September 2024…
I would really love to know how much work you did put in to get to this stage
I will be forever thankful to you, you changed my life I will continue to speak on your behalf for the world to hear that you saved me from huge financial debt with just a little trade, thank you Jihan Wu you're such a life saver
Appreciate the video… folks often confuse COST, PRICE and VALUE. Just because it may COST more than the PRICE of the vehicle on the market does *not* mean the COST is greater than the VALUE to that person. When you buy a car, you buy all the unknown issues with that car too…
Depends on the vehicle because 8k is a lot cheaper than 45-80 grand depending on the vehicle. I know I did it. 2003 GMC Sierra body and interior near mint needs new engine at 200k miles due to last owner not doing service like he should have. New remanufactured engine (Jasper engine in this case) installed 5k. Transmission was done 50k miles ago its good. New truck with same features 60k. 2003 models were very reliable and the 2024 models not so much. In that case getting a new engine was the best route to go. That being said the huge negative is one accident trucks totaled instead of being repaired so you have to hope you do not have an accident. I will take my chances with the 2003 in a year it will be paid off again.
I have 2006 Lexus GX470 with 300,000 miles on the odometer. Definitely worth repairing
Love your perspective and truthfulness! Thank you!
Good video. Feel better. I have a plan. My Car is a tool, not an investment. A to B transport. I look after her, maintain her and we review after each MOT.
Good discussion AMD. For myself, I can do almost anything on a car so I can get away with some stuff other people are not able to. Plus, I really like cars and understand them. Thanks for your videos.
I like my old car, so I keep fixing it.
Exactly, the sunk cost fallacy heavily applies to cars. It's to say that you should think of the future regardless of the past costs
Exacly what i needed to hear for my 2005 Previa...runs great but so many small things need fixing that adds up to a big bill...
Quite happy with my 1996 SL 1991 S class and 1988 w124 estate
Great video. I've always thought that one of the most important things in owning a car is when to sell it. Too early, and you lose too much in depreciation. Too late, and you spend a fortune in repairs.
In my country, there is a huge market for foreign used car parts and engines. People import them by the container full from Japan and other countries. An average Toyota used engine for sedan will go around the equivalent of US$ 1000. They work well. Some years ago, I replaced an engine on my old Nissan vehicle and it cost around US$ 300 (Nissans are somehow a lot cheaper), and it worked good. Other foreign used original parts are worth it over buying new aftermarket parts that fail faster. At least where I live, it is definitely worth it fixing your old car. Used cars also sell at a lot higher price than I see used cars selling in the US, so saying you're going to junk a car to spend a lot of money to purchase another old car does not make sense.
It's very impressive to watch you grow and evolve as a content creator. Your videos are always beautiful!🏍🎰😱