I have replaced several transom’s on fiberglass bass and ski boats due to the bolt’s penetration that secured the outboard engine. As you so noted penetrating fiberglass with wood supporting structure of boats has it’s problems eventually. But I have gotten great deals knowing I had the tools and know how. It’s great that you teach others they can enjoy boating without having to go in debt for fun if willing to rehab an older boat and save a bundle of money. Enjoyed you also sharing Jesus Christ as our only hope for Eternity!
Awesome! I just did this repair on the rear of a skiff. I opted for 3/4" Coosa in the 20lb/ft^3 density. Carolina skiff said they discontinued putting wood in boats, and it made sense to me to leave out a product that I am replacing due to the inherent flaw of rotting from almost inevitable water intrusion. Coosa marketed less than 1% water saturation, but I sealed all the screws with 3m 5200 regardless. Very similar method, removed the seat, epoxied the coosa board in, fiberglass mat with polyester resin topped with gelcoat. Better than ever.
Hi David, Thanks for the comment. Great suggestion, I had not heard of Coosa board before but looked on their website to study it. A little pricey but probably worth it in the long run. Does a 4x8 sheet of Coosa 20lb weigh 20lb?
@@creativerepairing2960 It is definitely more expensive than plywood or marine plywood. I had never used the material before so the experience coupled with the labor justified the cost for me. A 3/4" thick 4'x8' sheet of coosa 20 weighs 40lb (20lb per cubic foot of material). They make a slightly denser product called coosa 26 which is good for transoms.
Thanks for posting, gotta do the same to my 18’ skiff.
I have replaced several transom’s on fiberglass bass and ski boats due to the bolt’s penetration that secured the outboard engine. As you so noted penetrating fiberglass with wood supporting structure of boats has it’s problems eventually. But I have gotten great deals knowing I had the tools and know how. It’s great that you teach others they can enjoy boating without having to go in debt for fun if willing to rehab an older boat and save a bundle of money. Enjoyed you also sharing Jesus Christ as our only hope for Eternity!
Love your closing message, Jesus is Lord🥰
Awesome! I just did this repair on the rear of a skiff. I opted for 3/4" Coosa in the 20lb/ft^3 density. Carolina skiff said they discontinued putting wood in boats, and it made sense to me to leave out a product that I am replacing due to the inherent flaw of rotting from almost inevitable water intrusion. Coosa marketed less than 1% water saturation, but I sealed all the screws with 3m 5200 regardless. Very similar method, removed the seat, epoxied the coosa board in, fiberglass mat with polyester resin topped with gelcoat. Better than ever.
Hi David, Thanks for the comment. Great suggestion, I had not heard of Coosa board before but looked on their website to study it. A little pricey but probably worth it in the long run. Does a 4x8 sheet of Coosa 20lb weigh 20lb?
@@creativerepairing2960 It is definitely more expensive than plywood or marine plywood. I had never used the material before so the experience coupled with the labor justified the cost for me. A 3/4" thick 4'x8' sheet of coosa 20 weighs 40lb (20lb per cubic foot of material). They make a slightly denser product called coosa 26 which is good for transoms.
Just FYI pressure treated wood I usually avoided in boat building due to its high moisture content