Glad it helped. TIP: If you have a gasket on the lower part of the helmet (most likely you do), mask off the helmet inc the inside, up to about 1/8" away from the edge of the gasket & painted surface. Last piece of tape will be a 1/4" on the very edge (gasket and painted surface). THEN do your base, and flame layout. Once you are done with your painting including flames and clearcoating, pull this last piece of 1/4" off IMMEDIATLEY. This way the base, flame, clear paint will not 'bridge' up to that tape when drying. If you let the clear dry, you may have a problem with peeling when removing the tape from the edge.
Cool, my dad taught me the hard way after watching him lay them out for years he finally said it was my turn. Gave me the tape an said have fun. Took me six times before he said they ok. Nothing teaches you better than a mistake or two and you can never practice to much. Enjoy watching the videos an learning different techniques and affects to try.
If I wanted to add flames to a stock painted part, do I just scuff up the clear coat with a scotchbrite pad, add the flames and then re-clear? Thanks for the video, nice work.
You will need to sand the surface very good. If you don't when you pull up the tape, you may end up pulling the paint you painted for the flames as well. My suggestion is to wetsand the surface with 1000 grit until it's completely dull
In part 2 you state this was sanded before shooting silver flames. Did you sand it to get smooth or to help the other layers stick/adhere. Also trying to research dry times windows between different steps. My clear came out pretty good, minimal orange peel. I don't want to sand, go straight to tape/flames. Im hoping for good not necessarily show quality. Advice
Hi Bill, I did this for several reasons 1) to protect any 'blow through' from getting on the black and having to spray the black if I did get some silver on it. Simply wipe it off with thinner. 2) to make the surface 'flat' (just makes a nicer job). 3- Now I'm in no hurry to do the flames. If you just base it and then do the flames, there is a window that you need to get the flames on before an adhesion problem. I used to have an in house painter that did my airbrush and painting back in the day and we could just base it, I did the flames, he masked and painted it WITHOUT the xtra clearcoat/resand step. We could do 10 of these a week. But now I'm by myself so I have to keep other jobs going, so I clearcoat and resand and it may sit for 2-5 days before flaming
I make them from roller stands amzn.to/3oPOxoh I remove the rollers, add some flat sheetmetal, and then some foam pipe insulation amzn.to/3l2jwMx I have some stands that I did almost 20 years ago. Some have paint buildup 2" thick (need to air chisel this off lol)
Seriously the best flame layout video out there. I'm on the 4th go on my custom fender and after this it all makes sense. THANKS!
Thanks Aaron...glad this video help you out to! Appreciate it!
Excellent work, really enjoyed seeing and hearing a professional talk it through properly without any stupid music!
lol...I know that music can get annoying. Glad you liked the video
fantastic demo !!!!!
Thanks for sharing the links! Appreciate that!
No problem
About to lay flames out on a helmet, this helped a lot! Great prep tips.
Glad it helped. TIP: If you have a gasket on the lower part of the helmet (most likely you do), mask off the helmet inc the inside, up to about 1/8" away from the edge of the gasket & painted surface.
Last piece of tape will be a 1/4" on the very edge (gasket and painted surface). THEN do your base, and flame layout. Once you are done with your painting including flames and clearcoating, pull this last piece of 1/4" off IMMEDIATLEY. This way the base, flame, clear paint will not 'bridge' up to that tape when drying. If you let the clear dry, you may have a problem with peeling when removing the tape from the edge.
@@TAZattitude Good deal I’ll use that tip forsure! Thank you for that tip.
@@nicholaslucero742 No problem Nicholas!
Nice tutorial on laying out flames. Better than the way I was taught 20 years ago for sure.
Thank you John....appreciate that. Actually I learned this way about 19 years ago ;>)
Cool, my dad taught me the hard way after watching him lay them out for years he finally said it was my turn. Gave me the tape an said have fun. Took me six times before he said they ok. Nothing teaches you better than a mistake or two and you can never practice to much. Enjoy watching the videos an learning different techniques and affects to try.
Thanks for the Great Vid
Love the style of your flames.
Thanks James, appreciate the compliment!
If I wanted to add flames to a stock painted part, do I just scuff up the clear coat with a scotchbrite pad, add the flames and then re-clear? Thanks for the video, nice work.
You will need to sand the surface very good. If you don't when you pull up the tape, you may end up pulling the paint you painted for the flames as well.
My suggestion is to wetsand the surface with 1000 grit until it's completely dull
Link for the yellow tape?
3/4" here - amzn.to/3CWPjr0
1 1/2" here - amzn.to/44buT9E
In part 2 you state this was sanded before shooting silver flames. Did you sand it to get smooth or to help the other layers stick/adhere. Also trying to research dry times windows between different steps. My clear came out pretty good, minimal orange peel. I don't want to sand, go straight to tape/flames. Im hoping for good not necessarily show quality. Advice
Hi Bill, I did this for several reasons 1) to protect any 'blow through' from getting on the black and having to spray the black if I did get some silver on it. Simply wipe it off with thinner. 2) to make the surface 'flat' (just makes a nicer job). 3- Now I'm in no hurry to do the flames. If you just base it and then do the flames, there is a window that you need to get the flames on before an adhesion problem. I used to have an in house painter that did my airbrush and painting back in the day and we could just base it, I did the flames, he masked and painted it WITHOUT the xtra clearcoat/resand step. We could do 10 of these a week. But now I'm by myself so I have to keep other jobs going, so I clearcoat and resand and it may sit for 2-5 days before flaming
What type of work stands are they called?
I make them from roller stands
amzn.to/3oPOxoh
I remove the rollers, add some flat sheetmetal, and then some foam pipe insulation
amzn.to/3l2jwMx
I have some stands that I did almost 20 years ago. Some have paint buildup 2" thick (need to air chisel this off lol)