Thanks a ton for this video. Its easier to follow along when watching than when reading a forum topic. I also have a request if possible for future video. The wasteboard is the stumbling part for me as I learn my xxl. I like the look of what you have on top of yours. Could we get a video about adding something similar and aligning it, surfacing, etc.. thanks
It is worth noting that the newer machines come with the Z-plus which has a tramming plate. Don't try pulling the router support off the Z-plus as shown in this video or you will pull the anti-backlash system off and will have to reinstall it (as I am doing now). :/
Great! I need to rotate my X axis rails too. But I have the SO2 which has two rails that aren't connected, so I have to get them parallel also. Which is why I have put it off for so long. For my spindle I have great results from just using a small square against a long end mill and that gets me to where I cant tell there is an error anymore.
An old machinist trick: move your spindle to the center of the machine. Use a 1/8” rod or even a metal coat hanger and make a 90 degree bend about an inch down from one end. That 1 inch length will be put into the spindles chuck. The remaining rod will be sticking out roughly parallel to the machines bed. Where the rod reaches to the beds edge, make another 90 degree bend down towards the bed. Leave about an inch of rod and cut off the rest. You basically made a sideways “z” shape. Now as you slowly turn the spindle you will see more accurately how square the spindle in in a 360 degree rotation.
Winston, great videos!!! I just trammed my Shapeoko 4 XXL. I used your method. I used 1x2x22 inches. Used bit zero in the center and two 90° v-bits on the ends. It is off by approximately 0.006 inches at a distance of 11” from spindle center. I resurfaced and it looks a lot better. Out of being inquisitive how do you calculate the tram error at 3 inches from spindle given my measurements at 11 inches?
Winston first thing, your videos are very helpfully.now I just got my shapeoko 3xxl a couple days ago got it put together and then I noticed I was about .100" out of sq. I open the holes on the "Y" rails by a 1/32 I also did the "X" gantry, but I am still have trouble getting it sq. should I open the holes larger?? or am I doing something wrong? Please let me know Thanks Dave T
My planer bit was leaving ridges on my waste board. After a thorough check, the z-spindle mount wasn't level. One of the factory screws on the z-plate that holds the spindle mount was off ~2mm. Took apart, filed hole, reassembled, tested it, and no more ridges.
@@WinstonMakes Good thinking! I just thought that the holder looked perfect for a indicator so I wanted your thoughts! Thanks a bunch and keep up the good work!
I don't understand why people tram to their spoilboard which is the least accurate part of the machine lol, why not square the router to a level spanned across your 2 Y axis bars then re-surface the spoilboard to match?
Hi, I think about buying a shapeoko but I do have one question can I carve outside the waste board to make holes in the side of a larger panel and do also some dovetail joinery? It look that is does at {3:14} you take off the router holder so I think I'm good Kind regards Hans
On the Shapeoko 3, the mount is 69mm to allow for either the dewalt, or Carbide/Makita (with adapter). On the newer Pro, we've standardized on 65mm for the mount, so no adapter bushing is required.
What book do you recommend for finding the machinists definition of the term: crazy? I think I should be referencing something more specific than merriam-webster dictionary.
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I am a retired master cnc machinist. Thank you for calling me crazy.
Lol "We're all a little bit crazy here" :-D
Sorry for getting your hopes up, this video was not actually shot in 4k. I goofed on the export settings.
Also, first.
Winston Moy lol
I DEMAND TO SEE EACH CHIP OF SAWDUST IN GLORIOUS 8K
I wish you had shown the first and second surfacing side-by-side to show the differences pre/post tramming
triggering my OCD always :P Nice video Winston. Carbide's lucky to have you.
Thanks a ton for this video. Its easier to follow along when watching than when reading a forum topic.
I also have a request if possible for future video. The wasteboard is the stumbling part for me as I learn my xxl. I like the look of what you have on top of yours. Could we get a video about adding something similar and aligning it, surfacing, etc..
thanks
It is worth noting that the newer machines come with the Z-plus which has a tramming plate. Don't try pulling the router support off the Z-plus as shown in this video or you will pull the anti-backlash system off and will have to reinstall it (as I am doing now). :/
Yes Winston - OCD triggered. Thanks for the advice.
Fantastic info as always.
Great information. Thanks for sharing
Great! I need to rotate my X axis rails too. But I have the SO2 which has two rails that aren't connected, so I have to get them parallel also. Which is why I have put it off for so long. For my spindle I have great results from just using a small square against a long end mill and that gets me to where I cant tell there is an error anymore.
An old machinist trick: move your spindle to the center of the machine. Use a 1/8” rod or even a metal coat hanger and make a 90 degree bend about an inch down from one end. That 1 inch length will be put into the spindles chuck. The remaining rod will be sticking out roughly parallel to the machines bed. Where the rod reaches to the beds edge, make another 90 degree bend down towards the bed. Leave about an inch of rod and cut off the rest. You basically made a sideways “z” shape. Now as you slowly turn the spindle you will see more accurately how square the spindle in in a 360 degree rotation.
Please do a video or offer some tips on tramming the Shapeoko HDM ?
Winston, great videos!!! I just trammed my Shapeoko 4 XXL. I used your method. I used 1x2x22 inches. Used bit zero in the center and two 90° v-bits on the ends. It is off by approximately 0.006 inches at a distance of 11” from spindle center. I resurfaced and it looks a lot better. Out of being inquisitive how do you calculate the tram error at 3 inches from spindle given my measurements at 11 inches?
Could you just use the 123 block method for both x and y?
Winston first thing, your videos are very helpfully.now I just got my shapeoko 3xxl a couple days ago got it put together and then I noticed I was about .100" out of sq. I open the holes on the "Y" rails by a 1/32 I also did the "X" gantry, but I am still have trouble getting it sq. should I open the holes larger?? or am I doing something wrong? Please let me know Thanks Dave T
My planer bit was leaving ridges on my waste board. After a thorough check, the z-spindle mount wasn't level. One of the factory screws on the z-plate that holds the spindle mount was off ~2mm. Took apart, filed hole, reassembled, tested it, and no more ridges.
Note: I think there are access holes for the router mount on the bottom of the Z plate.......I think.
How did you black out your router? Looks sleek!!
Trying to tram left to right on 4xxl. Is this the same ? Seems the Z plate is much different.
My router is mounted on an assembly with lead screw and not belts.... how do i adjust the error on my y axis?
Wouldn't a test indicator in your patented tramming assistant work as a better way of finding any errors in X and Y?
If you cared enough, it certainly would be better. But there's a point of diminishing returns I wanted to address by doing it in a "low tech" way.
@@WinstonMakes Good thinking! I just thought that the holder looked perfect for a indicator so I wanted your thoughts! Thanks a bunch and keep up the good work!
I don't understand why people tram to their spoilboard which is the least accurate part of the machine lol, why not square the router to a level spanned across your 2 Y axis bars then re-surface the spoilboard to match?
Hi, I think about buying a shapeoko but I do have one question can I carve outside the waste board to make holes in the side of a larger panel and do also some dovetail joinery? It look that is does at {3:14} you take off the router holder so I think I'm good Kind regards Hans
There's about an inch off the front of the machine you can go if you clamp your piece to the base frame. -W
When you use the carbide router do you have to use the sleeve or it is for the dewalt?
On the Shapeoko 3, the mount is 69mm to allow for either the dewalt, or Carbide/Makita (with adapter). On the newer Pro, we've standardized on 65mm for the mount, so no adapter bushing is required.
was here
Ummmm, crazy? Harsh words....
What book do you recommend for finding the machinists definition of the term: crazy? I think I should be referencing something more specific than merriam-webster dictionary.
I meant that in the most endearing way possible.