One of the best upgrades that I've ever seen for these little lathes: a large block of reinforced concrete to bolt the lathe to. It improves the stiffness and lowers the natural harmonic of the machine by an almost unbelievable amount. Just make sure that you compensate for uneven feet so you don't twist the bed.
epoxy resin and gravel is also good for reducing vibration and adding rigidity, the added bonus of being able to set threaded bar into it while it's liquid makes it a good substitute to cast iron in diy machines
@@arma3koth290 It's a great material. Usually referred to as "epoxy granite", there are precise recipes around online. Just bear in mind it's nowhere near as stiff as cast iron - it's great for adding mass, and its nonuniform structure makes for fantastic vibration damping, but it needs to be used in addition to iron or steel ribs for best effect.
Amazing amount of work to be showcased in 11 or so minutes. You have learned the secret to doing proper upgrades, and that is to inspect thoroughly the changes made and look for any surprises. Enjoyed, cheers!
Very nice! I always enjoy your videos, and this was was no exception. I have a similar lathe, and have done a bunch of mods similar to what you have done... but you have given me some very good ideas. I haven't made the big bearing change yet, but that I am going to scrape the ways soon, and when I do that, the bearing change will go along. Thanks for the information and entertainment!
It was good to see that the shield for the gears worked well. I was thinking of adding that to my Grizzly Import too... too lazy to make it and put it on last time I had it apart for annual cleaning and upgrades.
2 mods that I have been thinking about on my lathe like this is extending the cross slide travel, to be able to better turn larger diameters, which is limited by the toolpost movement towards the operator. The second is adding a handwheel to the lead screw end on the car right. The thinking is I can get finer adjustment versus the rack and gear handwheel. Where did you find the button oilers? I had thought about bronze sleeves on the leadscrew.
If you don't have a reamer and you want a somewhat precise hole, use first a bit underside drill bit and then go over with the one you would want to finish. This way the second drill bit will act as a reamer.
Great video many thanks. I noticed you still retain the plastic sleeve on the spindle that is applying preload to the bearings. Maybe a metal replacement would help your rigidity chase.
Cap head screw upgrade was pointless unless you're going to torque them down harder. Steel has the same elasticity coefficient no matter the grade - so if you tighten the 12.9 screws up to about the same as the 8.8 screws - there will still be the same amount of stretch-per-force. What the 12.9 will allow is for you to torque them tighter - and that should probably be measured by a torque wrench so (1) you don't strip/break them, and (2) if you're going to invest any more time into the precision of the lathe, so you can get repeatable results if you take the head off again.
Cheers, might be something I over looked, but I still think it's a good idea to replace the Chinese bolts. They aren't that well made and I have had a few strip early on. These were just the last ones left that I hadn't gotten around to changing.
I've been planning on putting oilers on the lead screw bearings. But I've also thought about adding ball bearings or bushings... Any reason why you left it as steel on cast but added the oiler?
It is cast iron, so it is a half decent bearing material. And it mostly comes down to it being something I can do in 2 or 3 minutes, rather than having to bore out a press fit hole for the bearings. I don't use the leadscrew often enough to make it a worthwhile upgrade.
NSW, pretty wild scenes I have seen in the areas surrounding Brisbane recently. Got a lot of rain here over the past week or so. The workshop used to have flooding issues but thankfully that has been all fixed up. Stay safe.
7:30 Drills just aren't precision tools. They almost always drill oversize unless the grind is perfect. If you need a precise diameter, the only way is to drill undersize and ream, sadly.
It sounds like you add one "a" to the end of the last word of each sentence.onxe you hear it it's hard to not. or maybe I'm just hearing something that isn't there at all
You don't want to pack a lathe spindle bearing as you would pack a wheel bearing for example. Only use just enough grease that you will need, and that should last well over 6 moths. This is how ive seen many people do it and no one seems to run into any issues.
One of the best upgrades that I've ever seen for these little lathes: a large block of reinforced concrete to bolt the lathe to. It improves the stiffness and lowers the natural harmonic of the machine by an almost unbelievable amount. Just make sure that you compensate for uneven feet so you don't twist the bed.
This x 1000! I've seen the upgrade done with an offcut from a stone kitchen bench.
epoxy resin and gravel is also good for reducing vibration and adding rigidity, the added bonus of being able to set threaded bar into it while it's liquid makes it a good substitute to cast iron in diy machines
@@arma3koth290 It's a great material. Usually referred to as "epoxy granite", there are precise recipes around online. Just bear in mind it's nowhere near as stiff as cast iron - it's great for adding mass, and its nonuniform structure makes for fantastic vibration damping, but it needs to be used in addition to iron or steel ribs for best effect.
I've done the same. The 16inch bed extension as well as the cross slide extension is my other 2 favorite mods
You could also spray the chuck keys with retro-reflective spray paint, so they shine brightly when hit by a flashlight
Amazing amount of work to be showcased in 11 or so minutes. You have learned the secret to doing proper upgrades, and that is to inspect thoroughly the changes made and look for any surprises. Enjoyed, cheers!
Last time I was this early, I heard the words “Is that it???!!!”
For chuck keys, buy some button magnets & stick them to a vertical lathe/mill surface. Then you've got a handy place to keep them!
Happy for the update!
i love the chutzpah/tenacity, like the minimill/lathe version of Handy Dan
Very nice! I always enjoy your videos, and this was was no exception. I have a similar lathe, and have done a bunch of mods similar to what you have done... but you have given me some very good ideas. I haven't made the big bearing change yet, but that I am going to scrape the ways soon, and when I do that, the bearing change will go along. Thanks for the information and entertainment!
Cheers, I am sure that you will be very impressed with new bearings
Hi, thanks for the great tip and for sharing your video.
It was good to see that the shield for the gears worked well. I was thinking of adding that to my Grizzly Import too... too lazy to make it and put it on last time I had it apart for annual cleaning and upgrades.
The red and the blue is a fantastic idea
I've got a little optimum bf-16 mill, I love it, but I'm busting for a nice little lathe. Love the channel mate👌👍🇦🇺
Nice work
2 mods that I have been thinking about on my lathe like this is extending the cross slide travel, to be able to better turn larger diameters, which is limited by the toolpost movement towards the operator. The second is adding a handwheel to the lead screw end on the car right. The thinking is I can get finer adjustment versus the rack and gear handwheel. Where did you find the button oilers? I had thought about bronze sleeves on the leadscrew.
Dude, can you please list what parts you are using for upgrades? It makes it so much easier for the rest of us to follow in your footsteps.
Remove the hole where the old motor stood, fill it with concrete, this will significantly increase the rigidity
That is the next video, but Im not doing concrete.
If you don't have a reamer and you want a somewhat precise hole, use first a bit underside drill bit and then go over with the one you would want to finish. This way the second drill bit will act as a reamer.
Great video many thanks. I noticed you still retain the plastic sleeve on the spindle that is applying preload to the bearings. Maybe a metal replacement would help your rigidity chase.
You seem like the kind of guy I'd like to have a beer with.
Cap head screw upgrade was pointless unless you're going to torque them down harder. Steel has the same elasticity coefficient no matter the grade - so if you tighten the 12.9 screws up to about the same as the 8.8 screws - there will still be the same amount of stretch-per-force. What the 12.9 will allow is for you to torque them tighter - and that should probably be measured by a torque wrench so (1) you don't strip/break them, and (2) if you're going to invest any more time into the precision of the lathe, so you can get repeatable results if you take the head off again.
Cheers, might be something I over looked, but I still think it's a good idea to replace the Chinese bolts. They aren't that well made and I have had a few strip early on. These were just the last ones left that I hadn't gotten around to changing.
As blondihacks says "drills are not precision tools" that's why your oiler holes were oversized.
These press fit ones were designed to be used with undersized drilled holes. These were import so maybe the drill sizes got lost in translation.
Where can I find some of those button oilers? I've been looking but find mostly the threaded versions available that are meant for greasing.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You should check out Ades Workshop's video on adding a 4th bolt to lock down the head. I think it was "Mini Lathe Refit pt3"
Great video! What size/# is that thrust bearing/washer you got? Dont see a link and would like to add that to my lathe. Cheers!
Whatever size stud you have for your toolpost, mine was 10mm
Great work, I have been buying metal know from Edcosteel, thanks for the tip. Where do you get your plastics mate?
Mostly from ebay sellers, however I did pick up some engineering plastic from mcjing tooling
I've been planning on putting oilers on the lead screw bearings. But I've also thought about adding ball bearings or bushings... Any reason why you left it as steel on cast but added the oiler?
It is cast iron, so it is a half decent bearing material. And it mostly comes down to it being something I can do in 2 or 3 minutes, rather than having to bore out a press fit hole for the bearings. I don't use the leadscrew often enough to make it a worthwhile upgrade.
What part of Australia are you from? I'm just north of Brisbane and currently flooded in! have been for 3 days!
NSW, pretty wild scenes I have seen in the areas surrounding Brisbane recently. Got a lot of rain here over the past week or so. The workshop used to have flooding issues but thankfully that has been all fixed up. Stay safe.
Arty, have you got a patreon yet? Yeah I've decided to call you Arty :)
at 2.08 seconds it looks like a new belt is in order!
Its getting to the end of its life. I have a new one ready to go once this one gives up the ghost
Hi There, Could you tell me what that wave cover material is called please.! Great Video.
See Arty’s recent video: ruclips.net/video/1Wls7PYSAwg/видео.html
is your motor bolted dwn??? You have not shown??
7:30 Drills just aren't precision tools. They almost always drill oversize unless the grind is perfect. If you need a precise diameter, the only way is to drill undersize and ream, sadly.
Dunno, should have been undersized. Worked for the other two ones but not for the first.
@@artisanmakes Ah ok, you didn't mention it was undersized. Still, drills do this kind of thing!
Are we both insomniacs?
No, I schedule these videos to auto release
Well I'm one of the first to comment, so hi :)
It sounds like you add one "a" to the end of the last word of each sentence.onxe you hear it it's hard to not. or maybe I'm just hearing something that isn't there at all
That is not how you 'pack' a bearing.
You don't want to pack a lathe spindle bearing as you would pack a wheel bearing for example. Only use just enough grease that you will need, and that should last well over 6 moths. This is how ive seen many people do it and no one seems to run into any issues.