I was a film loader many years ago. I recall that fresh rolls of film were not necessarily cut at the perforation. In any case, I was taught to always confirm that the perforation was open, or to make it so. I never used scissors; I always tore the film at the perforation, which was easier. I always did this a few inches into the roll, as this left a larger film fragment to find and get rid of.
@@DonStarnes, I can confirm that. This also applies to 16mm. The Arriflex SR cassettes are much easier to load if you have the beginning of the film between perorations.
Hi! I hope you see this message. I found this tutorial really helpful and will definitely use this if I ever get a film camera. However, would you be able to make a tutorial on how to put the loaded magazine into the camera. I saw another tutorial on RUclips, but they didn't explain anything; they just recorded themself loading in the magazine. If you could make a detailed tutorial on how to load a magazine in the camera and explain each step just like this video, that would be perfect! Thanks!
As I mentioned in another comment, I was a film loader many years ago. I was taught to never use the gears to advance the film at first, because chewing the film with the sprockets is a very bad thing. Gently push the film into the feed sprockets of the magazine; let the open perforation push the sprockets, moving the gear, until the first few perforations are synchronized with the sprockets. Then advance the film with the gear. Do the same when inserting the film into the take-up sprockets. This method makes it almost impossible to accidentally add a sprocket or two to the loop. Occasionally, one comes across a magazine in which the lubrication of the gears is too stiff, and so the film can't push the sprockets. This magazine needs to be sent back to the rental house to be re-lubricated.
Correct. You should push the film through the light trap until it's through before advancing it with the gears. Another "wrong" is saying that you should never put the film in the slit on the take-up core. I've always done that. It isn't absolutely necessary, and putting it around the core is enough, but saying that you should never do it is just plain wrong. They even recommend this in the Arricam LT/ST manuals.
Are you able to scan 400ft lengths of film in 14k just like what you offer for still photographers? Obviously movie footage is like tons of half frames, so it’d be more like 8K scans but I thought I’d ask haha.
Hey Max, yes we are able to scan like 5 x 400ft length of film in 14K RAW. Then we stabilise and downconvert to 8K or 4K. The more economic workflow for filmmakers is to scan only the frames you really need. Like for a 30 seconds commercial you have tons of original frames, but you only pick the ones you made into the final edit. So APOLLON.14K is smart enough to scan selected-takes-only.
Additional note:
02:45 *this is just relevant when you handle short ends, fresh reels don’t need a cut.
I was a film loader many years ago. I recall that fresh rolls of film were not necessarily cut at the perforation. In any case, I was taught to always confirm that the perforation was open, or to make it so. I never used scissors; I always tore the film at the perforation, which was easier. I always did this a few inches into the roll, as this left a larger film fragment to find and get rid of.
@@DonStarnes, I can confirm that.
This also applies to 16mm. The Arriflex SR cassettes are much easier to load if you have the beginning of the film between perorations.
Hi! I hope you see this message. I found this tutorial really helpful and will definitely use this if I ever get a film camera. However, would you be able to make a tutorial on how to put the loaded magazine into the camera. I saw another tutorial on RUclips, but they didn't explain anything; they just recorded themself loading in the magazine. If you could make a detailed tutorial on how to load a magazine in the camera and explain each step just like this video, that would be perfect! Thanks!
As I mentioned in another comment, I was a film loader many years ago. I was taught to never use the gears to advance the film at first, because chewing the film with the sprockets is a very bad thing. Gently push the film into the feed sprockets of the magazine; let the open perforation push the sprockets, moving the gear, until the first few perforations are synchronized with the sprockets. Then advance the film with the gear. Do the same when inserting the film into the take-up sprockets. This method makes it almost impossible to accidentally add a sprocket or two to the loop. Occasionally, one comes across a magazine in which the lubrication of the gears is too stiff, and so the film can't push the sprockets. This magazine needs to be sent back to the rental house to be re-lubricated.
Correct. You should push the film through the light trap until it's through before advancing it with the gears.
Another "wrong" is saying that you should never put the film in the slit on the take-up core. I've always done that. It isn't absolutely necessary, and putting it around the core is enough, but saying that you should never do it is just plain wrong. They even recommend this in the Arricam LT/ST manuals.
Are you able to scan 400ft lengths of film in 14k just like what you offer for still photographers?
Obviously movie footage is like tons of half frames, so it’d be more like 8K scans but I thought I’d ask haha.
Hey Max, yes we are able to scan like 5 x 400ft length of film in 14K RAW. Then we stabilise and downconvert to 8K or 4K. The more economic workflow for filmmakers is to scan only the frames you really need. Like for a 30 seconds commercial you have tons of original frames, but you only pick the ones you made into the final edit. So APOLLON.14K is smart enough to scan selected-takes-only.