The pressure differential will depend upon what circulator and what setting it is in. If pumping away from expansion tank, the suction would be 20psi and if pumping into the expansion tank, the pressure at the discharge would be 20 psi. The corresponding discharge and suction would be dependent of the circ
A long video, however, very interesting basic elements, particularly re circulating pumps and how they function, have been explained. ( In the same way that Circulating Pumps are NOT primarily Water Pressure Pumps; neither are Radiators just functioning as Radiators but rather mainly as Convection Heaters.) Thank you.
Thanks for that lesson! My Burnham ES 24 gas boiler was installed in 2009. It has a single Taco 007 F5 circulator on the return side and four Taco zone valves (3 heating zones and an indirect water heater). The weird thing is that the circulator is installed to pump against the return flow. I noticed this the first time it broke in January 2016. The arrows on the zone valves all point toward the return side of the boiler and the arrow on the circulator points the other way (against the return flow). But I decided I better put in the replacement one in the same (backwards) direction, because it worked fine for 7 years and "if it ain't broke don't fix it." The fix worked and lasted 8 more years. The circulator broke again on March 1, 2024. I just installed the replacement--again in the same backwards direction. It works fine and my hot water is back. . . . . But I'm wondering would I get better performance and use less gas and electric if I reversed the pump direction? Is that safe to try, or could I possibly damage something else in the system? One other thing: When the circulator goes bad, I still get heat in the house but no hot water. The pipes to the hot water tank are hot but the return pipe is just warm. Also: I've always had a water hammer when we shut off the hot water anywhere in the house. Could that be caused by the circulator running in reverse? I'd appreciate your suggestion on reversing its direction. Thanks.
Thanks for watching one of our Taco Tuesday webinars, greatly appreciated. You have a few questions here I will address. 1. Circulator placement in regards to the boiler can be an installer preference or wherever the expansion tank is placed in the system. The boiler ports will also be labeled as supply or return. Reversing that flow is not recommended unless the boiler manufacturer explicitly says you can, I will assume you shouldn't due to the labels on the boiler. The "Supply" port is the supply out to the house and water should be leaving the boiler here. "Return" will be water that has given up its heat to the house to be reheated. Confirm the direction with the installation. There is also a directional arrow on the circulator 2. I don't know if your system is piped correctly nor do I know if you would get better performance and use less gas if it piped backwards. That would be a better question for the boiler manufacturer. The electricity consumption would be the same, a 007 uses about $30-40 of electricity a winter. There are option for the newer ECM variable speed circulators like the 007e that could cut electrical consumption quite a bit especially in a system like your with zone valves. 3. The heat you are getting on the house when the circulator is not working is what we call "gravity flow." Hot water will rise and cold water will fall in the heating pipes since the boiler is in the basement and the heating zones are above it. You don't get hot water since the indirect tank is probably on the same level as the boiler. 4. Water hammer in the plumbing in the house is not due to the boiler or the circulators but you could add an expansion tank or water hammer arrestors in the plumbing pipes to alleviate the noise. 5. Now this wasn't a direct question, but if you are looking for more fuel economy, consider adding and weather responsive controller that could modulate the boiler temperature. Depending upon the controller used for your zone valves, it could be a simple add-on controller we call the PC-700 pulse.ly/m2cn26vz9x And then the last comment I have is about having to replace your circulators. Please confirm the direction it is pumping in, maybe with a hydronic professional and also consider taking a look at the water quality that may be causing the premature failures of your circulators. If you need to find someone in your area to help, take a look here pulse.ly/aenbvogm9w
Learned a lot, thanks for teaching an old dog something new, at least for me.
At 38:13, what if the pump has 20 psi, what would be the discharge pressure and suction pressure?
The pressure differential will depend upon what circulator and what setting it is in. If pumping away from expansion tank, the suction would be 20psi and if pumping into the expansion tank, the pressure at the discharge would be 20 psi.
The corresponding discharge and suction would be dependent of the circ
Many thanks@@TacoHVACtv
No Problem!
A long video, however, very interesting basic elements, particularly re circulating pumps and how they function, have been explained. ( In the same way that Circulating Pumps are NOT primarily Water Pressure Pumps; neither are Radiators just functioning as Radiators but rather mainly as Convection Heaters.) Thank you.
Thanks for watching Taco Tuesday and the pumping away discussion. It's a conversation worth having many times!
Thanks for that lesson! My Burnham ES 24 gas boiler was installed in 2009. It has a single Taco 007 F5 circulator on the return side and four Taco zone valves (3 heating zones and an indirect water heater). The weird thing is that the circulator is installed to pump against the return flow. I noticed this the first time it broke in January 2016. The arrows on the zone valves all point toward the return side of the boiler and the arrow on the circulator points the other way (against the return flow). But I decided I better put in the replacement one in the same (backwards) direction, because it worked fine for 7 years and "if it ain't broke don't fix it." The fix worked and lasted 8 more years. The circulator broke again on March 1, 2024. I just installed the replacement--again in the same backwards direction. It works fine and my hot water is back. . . . .
But I'm wondering would I get better performance and use less gas and electric if I reversed the pump direction? Is that safe to try, or could I possibly damage something else in the system? One other thing: When the circulator goes bad, I still get heat in the house but no hot water. The pipes to the hot water tank are hot but the return pipe is just warm. Also: I've always had a water hammer when we shut off the hot water anywhere in the house. Could that be caused by the circulator running in reverse? I'd appreciate your suggestion on reversing its direction. Thanks.
Thanks for watching one of our Taco Tuesday webinars, greatly appreciated. You have a few questions here I will address.
1. Circulator placement in regards to the boiler can be an installer preference or wherever the expansion tank is placed in the system. The boiler ports will also be labeled as supply or return. Reversing that flow is not recommended unless the boiler manufacturer explicitly says you can, I will assume you shouldn't due to the labels on the boiler. The "Supply" port is the supply out to the house and water should be leaving the boiler here. "Return" will be water that has given up its heat to the house to be reheated. Confirm the direction with the installation. There is also a directional arrow on the circulator
2. I don't know if your system is piped correctly nor do I know if you would get better performance and use less gas if it piped backwards. That would be a better question for the boiler manufacturer.
The electricity consumption would be the same, a 007 uses about $30-40 of electricity a winter. There are option for the newer ECM variable speed circulators like the 007e that could cut electrical consumption quite a bit especially in a system like your with zone valves.
3. The heat you are getting on the house when the circulator is not working is what we call "gravity flow." Hot water will rise and cold water will fall in the heating pipes since the boiler is in the basement and the heating zones are above it. You don't get hot water since the indirect tank is probably on the same level as the boiler.
4. Water hammer in the plumbing in the house is not due to the boiler or the circulators but you could add an expansion tank or water hammer arrestors in the plumbing pipes to alleviate the noise.
5. Now this wasn't a direct question, but if you are looking for more fuel economy, consider adding and weather responsive controller that could modulate the boiler temperature. Depending upon the controller used for your zone valves, it could be a simple add-on controller we call the PC-700 pulse.ly/m2cn26vz9x
And then the last comment I have is about having to replace your circulators. Please confirm the direction it is pumping in, maybe with a hydronic professional and also consider taking a look at the water quality that may be causing the premature failures of your circulators. If you need to find someone in your area to help, take a look here pulse.ly/aenbvogm9w
yes
Leroy Ohio