Sweet! Been needing to reset the to on my rig since I add a lift and bigger tires, and this looks like something to make the job simpler. Might be cutting some groceries out of the budget for this, but it will be worth it.
Just to be clear, track bar centers the axle. Drag link adjusts steering wheel, tie rod adjusts toe. I had a shop do my alignment but they sucked at it and couldn't even tighten a jam nut tight enough lol. Great video imma have to buy some of these or make my own! Thanks Matt
Yea all the shops just "Toe and Go" That's the bad part of doing your own suspension work, no one will set the camber and caster back. at least that's how it is around here.
I know this comment is old, but I've done every single repair on my Jeep no problem, my weakness is aligning this darn thing myself!! Hate to sound dumb here but I never knew the track bar centers the axle lol No wonder why it sticks out farther on the driver side LOL!!! Thanks! After learning this simple thing I now know everything about my XJ haha
When my son was little, he raced go karts, and we had a similar tool to set our toe. Basically the same principle, straight edges on either spindle and measure front and back. Great video, keep it up!
Just used this today and man it was so much easier than the old half-assed method of two pipes and bungies. Love how solid and easy to read the tool is.
I just got a set of the tools via UPS yesterday. They may not be strictly necessary but it's worth the price. But I'm a data guy so personally I like things to be accurate.
Your comment regarding being more precise by using one millimeter (.039") increments instead of one sixteenth of an inch is all well and very good. My concern is you have done nothing to qualify or calibrate your two independant measuring scales. If you are going to use two different tape-measures, you should at least take a second measurement after swapping the rear tape-measure for the front and the front tape-measure to the rear. Then confirm the second measurement is the same as the first measurement. If the second measurement is different from the first measurement, your tape-measures are not calibrated equally. Maybe the hook on one tape-measure is bent or more worn than the other. It would be more precise to use a single measuring device for both front and rear measurements. Quality Assurance my friend... I enjoy your videos very much. Thank you, -Paul
Boy ain't that fancy" I did mine on my lifted Chevy in the parking lot of my hotel with two cinder blocks a string I use for laying brick and 4 peace of cardboard.
Excellent job Matt! I believe this to be your second tool design, ETCG used your yoke holder on a video. Any more and your going to have to start the Bleepin Tool Company Oh, I did your first method on my WJ and it's awesome! 20 k miles and tires are wearing perfectly.
Great tool! I made something similar to this a while ago, before stuff like this really became popular/easy to find on the internet. It works great I’ve been using it for years! I have never and will never pay for an alignment. In my experience with this method and a few other tricks I have been able to align my truck more accurately then my local shop with a laser alignment rack can.. So, I know purchasing something like this can be pricey but trust me if you know how to use it it’s well worth it!!
What is the purpose of dropping it on the rotors vs using jack stands on the axels? Is it possible to use this tool on the rotors and support it from jack stands instead of the rotors?
there's also inverted y steering, where the drag link goes from 1 tire up to the rod that connects the other tire to the steering box (such as in a XJ) Putting the vehicle down on the rotors like this is ok ONLY if your rotors have retaining screws, without that they can cant over (on some vehicles the only thing that holds the rotors in place is the wheel, or sometimes people don't put the retaining screw (s) back in) You can get the same effect using jack stands under the front axle, preferably with the vehicle as close to level as possible (though a inch or two won't make a big difference)
I was thinking the same thing. With any Jeep front suspension, the toe adjustment shouldn't be affected much by where the axle is in its vertical travel, so whatever jackstand height you have should be close enough. Ball joints shouldn't impact toe angle at all on a solid front axle unless they're so worn that you need to replace them anyway.
BleepinJeep - Matt, you don’t know how excited I would be to be the 1st Bleepin’ Girl! I’ve watched every one of your videos, and y’all are the reason I bought my XJ 😄 I’m on it! 🐞IIII🐞
I personally like to go to firestone wheel alignment center and get the 4 wheel alignment and they remove the wheels and shoot lazers from the back through the front. Now they can adjust the rear adjustable control arms so the rears are in alignment with the fronts and you don't get crab walk going down the freeway. After a professional 4 wheel adjustment I can see doing it this way but not for the first alignment after a complete adjustable lift kit installation.
Mine just showed up in the mail today and it fits the 79 F250 8 lug hub with the 9/16 studs. Looks like it's super thick stainless steel and should last a lifetime.
I thought this was pretty awesome, but then I saw the full video description. [Edit, because everything gets misinterpreted on the Interwebs: that was to say that the video description is even more awesomely awesomer than the video.] [Super edit: I'm being frivolous, in reverent respect to the spectacular frivolity of the video description :) :) :) ]
Got my Tool, It looks really good. I can't wait to get my new steering installed and use the tool! Thanks for the stickers!! Not sure the mustache is going to work. LOL
Just thought I might add, that to make sure that the tape measure's are match grade. I've used different measuring tapes and realized that some manufactures can stretch an inch. Can you use those trammels to measure camber?
Hey Matt, re the bloody lip photo in the intro, that transfer case to the helmet (in the long ago vid) was a wake up call for some of us lol -- I'm still enjoying your older vids
2000 xj Dana 30: My passenger side tire has noticeably more toe out than my driver tire. What’s the best way to get the passenger side straight, so that I can set my toe in?
That's cool I always Jack the truck up on jack stands spawn the tire Andrew line down the middle of tire with a pen and then use a tape measure on each side and just measured front and back that is always were perfect for me it does require two people though
Since you were (kind of) using metric for accuracy, will there be metric numbers on the alignment bars themselves? And I'm personally weary on resting the car on brakes, even though it definitely isn't hirting much. Just hurts my brain
On my jeep stock suspension I have 1.6 toe out on drive side and .6 toe out on passenger. Even if I adjust the sleeve for toe in Wont the wheels still be off? How do I get them align up if one adjusting sleeve connects to both tie rods? Won’t one always be off? Is there a bad ball joint or anything else that could cause this? Everything seems right when I checked it and I got new tie rods on it. Any help from anyone would be appreciated
how do you know which one is out or if both are,on my yj if one is straight the other points out and vice versa,just start with one straight and bring in the other or have both kinda off and adjust both?
Why not just set the axle on jack stands? The weight of the vehicle would be on the axle but the wheels or rotors are free to rotate when you turn the tie rod.
I thought that same thing, that's how I've done it in the past. Only thing I can think of is the ball joints might rotate ever so slightly, but even that shouldn't effect the left/right of the toe adjustment. Also, if you have drums up front on an old vehicle (think the older CJ's) then you can't just set it down on the drum.
Hey Matt this is Bobby big fan of yours watch as much as possible. But have a question did my alignment measurement comes out equal went 1/16 over in the front but now my driver Wheels pointed out but I got the right measurement do you know what the problem is. Pastner will look straight drivers pointing out 65 3/4 in the front + 1/16 over in the back I'm getting frustrated
This setup and style of tie rod adjusts both at the same time... if you have a rack and pinion style you could adjust both the same distance but when moving an 1/8th and inch or so it's not going to make much difference anyway.
Hello this is your neighborhood angry indian here once again and ok guys i took alignment class from snap on, been doing them for years and save your $70.00 bucks guys and ill tell you why. if you are a diy guy then let me give you the best advice..first off thats all fine if you guys want to blow money on crap that you dont have to save that money for some thing like another cordless impact or some other tool you really could use and heres why. if your tie rod ends take a crap fine but you dont have to have it aligned necessarily the way ive done this for years and has allways served me well first disconect tie rod end from stearing knuckle and this next step is the one that will keep your jeep in line because if you baught your jeep used like i did, chances are the knuckle head before you didnt change or maintain squat when they owned it, so you are the one who's doing it now...so do not ever remove let alone turn that locking nut for the tie rod end.. most oem replacement parts have to be the same dimensions period and of the same qaulity thats why the are an oem certified part. This is on any vehicle period. ive never had to take my jeep to have it aligned ever. This is not a hard concept to understand..if you cant get the tie rod end loose i suggest you spend your money on a tool by matco and heres the tool part #sps31. Now thats matco brand i dont know how much they are because a mechanic buddy and co worker at the time gave it to me. When you take off your tie rod end with out moving the locking nut, then just simply compare your new oem tie rod end to the new one and itshould be as tall and equal in height as the old one like i said fellas this works on all vehicles not just jeeps it also applies to trucks and cars and even mini vans..just to push this alot further i replaced every component in my front end by doing this very method on all of the components such as drag links,tie rod ends and etc, as long as you pay attention to how you dismantle tie rod ends and drag links you wont have to spend money on an alignment..they only time that ive had to send some one off to the alignment shop is when the customer tried it himself and ended up botching the whole thing and generally i did his alignment at my personal shop and guesse what guys i dont have a rotary lift either you have to be smarter than the car truck minivan, etc. and thats how you do it...and before some one has a fit and say oh well what about replacing the old locking nut wont that hurt it and i will tell you its just a locking nut its only tightened to about 15 to 20 ftlbs thats it and its not the space shutlle folks its just a locking nut plain and simple.....as far as the tool i mentioned you dont have to get the matco brand or snap on brand you could probably get it at harbor freight for half the price...so there you have it. now if your doing a lift kit the tool mentioned in his video does not set camber or thrust angle period if you put a lift kit on any vehicle it automaticly changes the geometry and you will have to take it to a proffesional like me and then all the parimeters can be checked and if its not correct the machine will detect it that tool only covers toe adjustment and not the other parameters of the alignment thats why we go to college to learn about these things...well thanks for reading the post just thought id add a comon sense tip to share with the diy community. thanks god bless america. this is your neighborhood angry indian once again..mr.b MAGA KAGA 45 2020🤔🤔🤔🤯🤯🤯🤯🙏👮♀️🙏👮♀️🙏🙏🙏
Hi Matt I sent u a Q on a track bar on my 89 xj, u never responded, anyway my Q was do I need an adjustable track bar with 235*75*15s all stock, no lift. Thanks young man.
I have seen numerous alignment videos, but there must be more than just turning the tie rod. I took my jeep wrangler to a shop and they said they would not do an alignment because I had after market parts and they would not be able to get it to factory specs. I just bought new tires and would like to keep them for awhile, so I opted for a professional aligment. Every video I see talks about tow, but there must be more to an aligment than just tow.
you want some jdm camber on your jeep? boy do i got some worn out wheel bearings to sell you only 200$ and theyll give you 20 degrees of camber minimum!
When you change out your control arms or ball joints, or give it a lift, often the camber and caster will be off causing uneven tire wear. This goes for most vehicles. Many shops just "toe and go". It will ride straight for a few hundred miles, but the tire will wear sideways and you are back to pulling. I insist on a print ou. These guys will say it dont matter when its in the red by a mile. There is a cam adjuster bolt for this, so there is no excuse not to do it.
@@ChannelZeroOne theres a cam adjustment bolt on all jeeps? im not too sure if thats true.. pretty sure its just set permanetly as long as ball joints and bearings are tight.. need adjustable control arms to set the castor
Not sure about all Jeeps. I wasn't even thinking about this as a Jeep thing. Alignment is fairly universal. My pretend jeep does on the lowers. My ram has them on the uppers. BMW and Matrix on every point. Many vehicles have these adjustments. Where the control arm mounts to the frame. You loosen the nut and turn the bolt. You will see a cam and alignment marks. This shifts the arm in or out a little. There is one of these on both mounting points to the frame. For I just use a level and tilt top in slightly.
Used this method similar to this to successfully to align. Had issue torquing the tie rod end clamp to 45 lbs. got it to around low 30’s but no tighter. The bolt actually started bending. Any ideas?
Matt I see what you doing here. Not trying blow you out of the water but a correct alignment consists of multiple measurements like Camber, Caster, Toe ,Thrust Angle. That tool used properly can work to adjust toe only if you setup your steering wheel too..
Camber isn't adjustable on a Wrangler. Caster is a function of where driveshaft vibration starts (when lifted), so isn't _generally_ adjustable. Thrust angle can only be properly done with full sets of adjustable arms, which a lot of people don't have. Toe is the most easily knocked of alignment settings and the one we have to worry about. But yes, more accurately called a "toe setting video."
@@TheRayDog Wait ... What?? Camber is completely adjustable on jeep wranglers. Lol Multiple auto part stores sell + or - (in degrees) upper ball joints to adjust camber settings. Thrust angle can be adjusted as well when doing a 4 wheel alignment. Matt is a knowledgeable jeep guy but some info is lacking is all I'm saying. Moving on.
@@juanmendoza1422 We both understand what he meant. Just that adjustments other than toe require non-stock items. Adjustable ball joints are not for the faint of heart and are beasts to install, and rarely used tbh as a result. Thrust angle cannot be adjusted with a 4 wheel alignment if adjustable arms aren't there. There isn't enough settable play in fixed length arm bolts to stick. For large % of Wranglers (like 85%), toe is it.
Hey Matt, you're right about the jeep needing to have a slight toe-in, but cars with a negative scrub radius such as a typical car with a Macpherson strut suspension needs to have a slight toe out. It's one thing to for me to blab about something on the internet, but it's another thing for me to explain why i believe I know what I'm talking about. I've taken several hunter alignment classes, and also I took a steering and suspension class in school when I got my degree in automotive technology.
Hey Bleeping Matt, thanks for this video. 2 questions: are you still selling the alignment tool & what happened to all the other bleepers? I've not seen anything from any of them recently.
Hello, you’re saying the correct way is to have a slight toe-in and northridge4x4 is saying the correct way is to have a slight toe-out. Which way should it be?
@@hydroboy35th The stuff I'm seeing lists the alignment specs on a JL to be toed in. Toe in = positive toe. Tow out = negative toe. Maybe you or the shop are confusing that and thinking positive mean out. That's wrong. There's also things like cross camber and cross caster to consider. I'm not a pro. I'd ask a good alignment shop... like a race shop. I find most places will send you away when they're not familiar with modified vehicles. Some shops know nothing about 4x4, diesel, imports, etc. My local tire shop has a monkey🐒 That has no concept of alignments and he's the guy working the alignment rack. Wow. Find a good shop . *usually* fwd are toed out/ - And rwd/4x4 are toed in/ +
If you have steersmarts tie rod, they recommend a slight toe out, which is different from the standard toe in the jeep usually is said to need. Steersmarts folks have years in the business and I trust they know what they are doing
I tried to recalculate the info stamped into the plates, and it seems like the calculations are not considering that both sides need .16 degrees of toe in. I come up with double the amount for x. Here is my calculation: distance front to back on plates = 23", times pi to get full circumference = 72.22", divided by 360 to get the movement in inches of the front of one plate for one degree = .2006 this would need to be multiplied by four to convert to front measurement minus rear measurment, (front moves .2006, back moves .2006, then times that by 2 because this is happening on both sides, equals .8024 for one degree. Multiply by .16 (desired toe in degrees, = .1284, or one eight of an inch diff between front and rear measurements.
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![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Will this work on 6x5.5 lug pattern? I don’t own a Jeep personally, but your vids are helpful all round. Keep up the great content.
Yes it will, here are all the tested lug patterns: Made to fit almost any axle including: 5×4.5, 5×5, 5×5.5, 6×5.5, 8×6.5, 8x170mm, UTV/ATV- 4/156
Sweet! Been needing to reset the to on my rig since I add a lift and bigger tires, and this looks like something to make the job simpler. Might be cutting some groceries out of the budget for this, but it will be worth it.
@@JH-jx7xs Jankie Hooker?
@@DrHavok1 wtf no
Your rotors and rust accumulation might account for a 1/2”
First step, compare your two tape measures to ensure they measure the same. You’d be surprised how often they’re off 1/16” or more.
Bread996 or use a laser measuring tool?
That hooky thing at the end is what causes variance. But that IS a good recommendation.
You could just swap the same tape back and forth eliminate that variable right there.
Yep every guy who's ever measured once and cut twice knows... that, I think it's the way they did my circumcision
3 years later and you’re helping me prep for doing my own alignment, thank you sir!
Just to be clear, track bar centers the axle. Drag link adjusts steering wheel, tie rod adjusts toe. I had a shop do my alignment but they sucked at it and couldn't even tighten a jam nut tight enough lol. Great video imma have to buy some of these or make my own! Thanks Matt
Yea all the shops just "Toe and Go"
That's the bad part of doing your own suspension work, no one will set the camber and caster back. at least that's how it is around here.
@@ChannelZeroOne
I have an alignment shop nearby that mostly does race cars. The owner competes in autocross.
Lucky me 😁
I know this comment is old, but I've done every single repair on my Jeep no problem, my weakness is aligning this darn thing myself!! Hate to sound dumb here but I never knew the track bar centers the axle lol No wonder why it sticks out farther on the driver side LOL!!! Thanks! After learning this simple thing I now know everything about my XJ haha
That's the most comprehensive explanation I've found and it took minutes to understand, Thanks!!!
im a broke asshole and cant buy the tools but i used this to do my alignment. SOO easy saved me 120 bucks. thanks for the videos.. big fan
When my son was little, he raced go karts, and we had a similar tool to set our toe. Basically the same principle, straight edges on either spindle and measure front and back. Great video, keep it up!
BEST ALIGNMENT VIDEO I'VE SEEN SO FAR. I'LL BE ORDERING THIS TOOL..THANK YOU..
Just used this today and man it was so much easier than the old half-assed method of two pipes and bungies. Love how solid and easy to read the tool is.
Thanks! Would love a review on Amazon if you have the time.
BleepinJeep - Just reviewed it on Amazon. Glad to have it!
@@dennisneu6494 thanks man!
I just got a set of the tools via UPS yesterday. They may not be strictly necessary but it's worth the price. But I'm a data guy so personally I like things to be accurate.
Love you videos because you show how to do it as a normal person. Normal people don't have a lift and what not.
Real throwback to the old days. "All the best off-road videos none of the boring stuff."
True that.
Your comment regarding being more precise by using one millimeter (.039") increments instead of one sixteenth of an inch is all well and very good. My concern is you have done nothing to qualify or calibrate your two independant measuring scales.
If you are going to use two different tape-measures, you should at least take a second measurement after swapping the rear tape-measure for the front and the front tape-measure to the rear. Then confirm the second measurement is the same as the first measurement. If the second measurement is different from the first measurement, your tape-measures are not calibrated equally. Maybe the hook on one tape-measure is bent or more worn than the other.
It would be more precise to use a single measuring device for both front and rear measurements. Quality Assurance my friend... I enjoy your videos very much.
Thank you, -Paul
Your vids and especially your DELIVERY are getting better and better all the time! Great job!
No! You guys are the best!
Saving this and putting this on my "buy" list!!!
Much better than using 2x4s like I learned with.
Boy ain't that fancy" I did mine on my lifted Chevy in the parking lot of my hotel with two cinder blocks a string I use for laying brick and 4 peace of cardboard.
Excellent job Matt!
I believe this to be your second tool design, ETCG used your yoke holder on a video.
Any more and your going to have to start the Bleepin Tool Company
Oh, I did your first method on my WJ and it's awesome! 20 k miles and tires are wearing perfectly.
Great tool! I made something similar to this a while ago, before stuff like this really became popular/easy to find on the internet. It works great I’ve been using it for years! I have never and will never pay for an alignment. In my experience with this method and a few other tricks I have been able to align my truck more accurately then my local shop with a laser alignment rack can.. So, I know purchasing something like this can be pricey but trust me if you know how to use it it’s well worth it!!
I don’t have a jeep, but my buddy does so I will let him know about this because this is pretty clever and awesome!
Where I live if you want to adjust your tierod you best just go buy a new one. Rust city!
Great idea and tool!
What is the purpose of dropping it on the rotors vs using jack stands on the axels? Is it possible to use this tool on the rotors and support it from jack stands instead of the rotors?
Sprung vs unsprung weight chances alignment
Even waiting for a prefab tool like this! Awesome.
there's also inverted y steering, where the drag link goes from 1 tire up to the rod that connects the other tire to the steering box (such as in a XJ)
Putting the vehicle down on the rotors like this is ok ONLY if your rotors have retaining screws, without that they can cant over (on some vehicles the only thing that holds the rotors in place is the wheel, or sometimes people don't put the retaining screw (s) back in)
You can get the same effect using jack stands under the front axle, preferably with the vehicle as close to level as possible (though a inch or two won't make a big difference)
I was thinking the same thing. With any Jeep front suspension, the toe adjustment shouldn't be affected much by where the axle is in its vertical travel, so whatever jackstand height you have should be close enough. Ball joints shouldn't impact toe angle at all on a solid front axle unless they're so worn that you need to replace them anyway.
Once the lug nuts are tightened the rotors are not going to cant!
Not only am I fan!!! I plan on continuing my skills and becoming the first Bleepin Jeep girl ! 🐞IIII🐞
do it, we need one!
BleepinJeep - Matt, you don’t know how excited I would be to be the 1st Bleepin’ Girl! I’ve watched every one of your videos, and y’all are the reason I bought my XJ 😄
I’m on it! 🐞IIII🐞
@@GoatOffroad
You're hired 😁
X Mo - 🤣😊😊
I personally like to go to firestone wheel alignment center and get the 4 wheel alignment and they remove the wheels and shoot lazers from the back through the front. Now they can adjust the rear adjustable control arms so the rears are in alignment with the fronts and you don't get crab walk going down the freeway. After a professional 4 wheel adjustment I can see doing it this way but not for the first alignment after a complete adjustable lift kit installation.
Mine just showed up in the mail today and it fits the 79 F250 8 lug hub with the 9/16 studs. Looks like it's super thick stainless steel and should last a lifetime.
Do you have a video for caster and camber?
Many moons ago I used a broom stick to align a 54' truck.. Lol It work.
This is an example why you always watch more then one video when trying to figure something out. The string line way is much easier.
I thought this was pretty awesome, but then I saw the full video description. [Edit, because everything gets misinterpreted on the Interwebs: that was to say that the video description is even more awesomely awesomer than the video.] [Super edit: I'm being frivolous, in reverent respect to the spectacular frivolity of the video description :) :) :) ]
Why? You do know that the description is a joke right? Read the whole thing
Kids, please be sure to read the video description, ya hear now?
And order the cool gizmo while you're there.
I’ve done a angle iron aligner way back to 2005 to align a samurai then I used to align a few CJ that I had
For an IFS how would you modify the procedure besides adjusting Both tie rods?
I love you guys i think you should make a video on how you unwarp metal
Great video Matt. And yes, being a kiwi, the metric measurement is way easier to read and a bit more accurate.
That's pretty Genius I will have to order one when the time comes
thanks Jerry!
I still cant find where to buy that tool. , anyone??
Cool tool guys!
Great for us diy mechanics.
I always use metric when accuracy is needed. :)
Well that straightened that out 👍😀
Got my Tool, It looks really good. I can't wait to get my new steering installed and use the tool! Thanks for the stickers!! Not sure the mustache is going to work. LOL
This is a tool I’ll be buying
This tool is on my list
Gonna have to get one soon.. Good to know I don't have to do a shop now!
About to do heim steering. Definitely be getting this soon!
Just thought I might add, that to make sure that the tape measure's are match grade. I've used different measuring tapes and realized that some manufactures can stretch an inch. Can you use those trammels to measure camber?
Too easy....thank you for the video
My question is how do you know in inches what the amount is supposed to be is it in my owners manual or online etc
Much improved video
Ordered some on the 27th waiting for them to ship , I seen the post on IG , and was like " I gotta get that " .
This should help me a bunch, Thanks!
Matt do you know why it is recommended to have any toe in?
Hey Matt, re the bloody lip photo in the intro, that transfer case to the helmet (in the long ago vid) was a wake up call for some of us lol -- I'm still enjoying your older vids
Yes, it woke me up for sure 😄
2000 xj Dana 30: My passenger side tire has noticeably more toe out than my driver tire. What’s the best way to get the passenger side straight, so that I can set my toe in?
Great tool!that looks like it makes it way easier
Order Placed! Thanks Matt!
Would this work on a Chevy Aveo with 4x100mm bolt pattern? Looks like a handy piece of metal there! 👌
That's cool I always Jack the truck up on jack stands spawn the tire Andrew line down the middle of tire with a pen and then use a tape measure on each side and just measured front and back that is always were perfect for me it does require two people though
I've been doing this on my FZJ80 Series with a few different types of straight edge material. Do you know if your jigs will fit a six-lug Toyota??
Thumbs up for the Metric System and smackin’ it around a lil’ bit.
Pretty badass tool you've made there
Great video. I'll check it out on your store. I cant wait to see what else you do to that JL.
Since you were (kind of) using metric for accuracy, will there be metric numbers on the alignment bars themselves?
And I'm personally weary on resting the car on brakes, even though it definitely isn't hirting much. Just hurts my brain
I dont understand. The jeep is hold by the break disk? What are the ramps for?
On my jeep stock suspension I have 1.6 toe out on drive side and .6 toe out on passenger. Even if I adjust the sleeve for toe in Wont the wheels still be off? How do I get them align up if one adjusting sleeve connects to both tie rods? Won’t one always be off? Is there a bad ball joint or anything else that could cause this? Everything seems right when I checked it and I got new tie rods on it. Any help from anyone would be appreciated
how do you know which one is out or if both are,on my yj if one is straight the other points out and vice versa,just start with one straight and bring in the other or have both kinda off and adjust both?
stock wrangler yj pulls to the right. leaf sprung no sway or track bars. new ball joints old tie rod ends. any ideas?
Amazing thank you!
Why not just set the axle on jack stands? The weight of the vehicle would be on the axle but the wheels or rotors are free to rotate when you turn the tie rod.
I thought that same thing, that's how I've done it in the past. Only thing I can think of is the ball joints might rotate ever so slightly, but even that shouldn't effect the left/right of the toe adjustment. Also, if you have drums up front on an old vehicle (think the older CJ's) then you can't just set it down on the drum.
Hey Matt this is Bobby big fan of yours watch as much as possible. But have a question did my alignment measurement comes out equal went 1/16 over in the front but now my driver Wheels pointed out but I got the right measurement do you know what the problem is. Pastner will look straight drivers pointing out 65 3/4 in the front + 1/16 over in the back I'm getting frustrated
What if the passenger side wheel is towed out how do you get the right side to be straight
nice! ordering.
Great info. Thank you.
You should check to see if your camber is set right before doing toe
Can you do this aliment using your tool if the Jeep is on a two posts lift?
It would be better to be on the weight of the vehicle because if any components are slightly warn it will cause the alignment to change slightly.
@@bleepinjeep ok great thank you 👍
Does this work on other vehicles?
Yes, all the tested bolt patterns are listed on the website.
Yes
YES
Will this. Work good. For 31 inch tires?
Yes of course!
@@bleepinjeep Thank you
1/16 on each side for toe in or 1/16 divide in both sides
How should I look up the correct measurements for my 99xj alignment?
*How do you know not to adjust the left tie rod more than the right tie rod?*
This setup and style of tie rod adjusts both at the same time... if you have a rack and pinion style you could adjust both the same distance but when moving an 1/8th and inch or so it's not going to make much difference anyway.
Will this work on a lifted Jeep, and does it work on all Jeep's CJ, TJ, JK JL, and other vehicles?
Yep
Hello this is your neighborhood angry indian here once again and ok guys i took alignment class from snap on, been doing them for years and save your $70.00 bucks guys and ill tell you why. if you are a diy guy then let me give you the best advice..first off thats all fine if you guys want to blow money on crap that you dont have to save that money for some thing like another cordless impact or some other tool you really could use and heres why. if your tie rod ends take a crap fine but you dont have to have it aligned necessarily the way ive done this for years and has allways served me well first disconect tie rod end from stearing knuckle and this next step is the one that will keep your jeep in line because if you baught your jeep used like i did, chances are the knuckle head before you didnt change or maintain squat when they owned it, so you are the one who's doing it now...so do not ever remove let alone turn that locking nut for the tie rod end.. most oem replacement parts have to be the same dimensions period and of the same qaulity thats why the are an oem certified part. This is on any vehicle period. ive never had to take my jeep to have it aligned ever. This is not a hard concept to understand..if you cant get the tie rod end loose i suggest you spend your money on a tool by matco and heres the tool part #sps31. Now thats matco brand i dont know how much they are because a mechanic buddy and co worker at the time gave it to me. When you take off your tie rod end with out moving the locking nut, then just simply compare your new oem tie rod end to the new one and itshould be as tall and equal in height as the old one like i said fellas this works on all vehicles not just jeeps it also applies to trucks and cars and even mini vans..just to push this alot further i replaced every component in my front end by doing this very method on all of the components such as drag links,tie rod ends and etc, as long as you pay attention to how you dismantle tie rod ends and drag links you wont have to spend money on an alignment..they only time that ive had to send some one off to the alignment shop is when the customer tried it himself and ended up botching the whole thing and generally i did his alignment at my personal shop and guesse what guys i dont have a rotary lift either you have to be smarter than the car truck minivan, etc. and thats how you do it...and before some one has a fit and say oh well what about replacing the old locking nut wont that hurt it and i will tell you its just a locking nut its only tightened to about 15 to 20 ftlbs thats it and its not the space shutlle folks its just a locking nut plain and simple.....as far as the tool i mentioned you dont have to get the matco brand or snap on brand you could probably get it at harbor freight for half the price...so there you have it. now if your doing a lift kit the tool mentioned in his video does not set camber or thrust angle period if you put a lift kit on any vehicle it automaticly changes the geometry and you will have to take it to a proffesional like me and then all the parimeters can be checked and if its not correct the machine will detect it that tool only covers toe adjustment and not the other parameters of the alignment thats why we go to college to learn about these things...well thanks for reading the post just thought id add a comon sense tip to share with the diy community. thanks god bless america. this is your neighborhood angry indian once again..mr.b MAGA KAGA 45 2020🤔🤔🤔🤯🤯🤯🤯🙏👮♀️🙏👮♀️🙏🙏🙏
Hi Matt I sent u a Q on a track bar on my 89 xj, u never responded, anyway my Q was do I need an adjustable track bar with 235*75*15s all stock, no lift. Thanks young man.
No, you don't need it for tires. It's to keep the axle center after a lift kit is added.
@@TheAmericanUhate Thank You Sir.
I have seen numerous alignment videos, but there must be more than just turning the tie rod. I took my jeep wrangler to a shop and they said they would not do an alignment because I had after market parts and they would not be able to get it to factory specs. I just bought new tires and would like to keep them for awhile, so I opted for a professional aligment. Every video I see talks about tow, but there must be more to an aligment than just tow.
What year Wrangler and what aftermaket parts? Is it lifted?
Does this work for jeep wrangler jk ?
I was hoping for an easier way for camber and castor.
you want some jdm camber on your jeep? boy do i got some worn out wheel bearings to sell you only 200$ and theyll give you 20 degrees of camber minimum!
When you change out your control arms or ball joints, or give it a lift, often the camber and caster will be off causing uneven tire wear. This goes for most vehicles.
Many shops just "toe and go". It will ride straight for a few hundred miles, but the tire will wear sideways and you are back to pulling. I insist on a print ou. These guys will say it dont matter when its in the red by a mile. There is a cam adjuster bolt for this, so there is no excuse not to do it.
@@ChannelZeroOne theres a cam adjustment bolt on all jeeps? im not too sure if thats true.. pretty sure its just set permanetly as long as ball joints and bearings are tight.. need adjustable control arms to set the castor
Not sure about all Jeeps. I wasn't even thinking about this as a Jeep thing. Alignment is fairly universal. My pretend jeep does on the lowers. My ram has them on the uppers. BMW and Matrix on every point.
Many vehicles have these adjustments. Where the control arm mounts to the frame. You loosen the nut and turn the bolt. You will see a cam and alignment marks. This shifts the arm in or out a little. There is one of these on both mounting points to the frame. For I just use a level and tilt top in slightly.
I changed my drag link to a flip rough country drag link I noticed a Lot more play on steering wheel any suggestions
Used this method similar to this to successfully to align. Had issue torquing the tie rod end clamp to 45 lbs. got it to around low 30’s but no tighter. The bolt actually started bending. Any ideas?
If it's not a jl maybe it's a lower torque spec.
2015 jku. Thought that’s what it said for my year model.
Nice tool....If it was in mm that would be sweet
Basic question here, I have the same JL Steer Smarts set up. How do I adjust the Steering wheel the proper way with there drag link?
My previous video on installing the steer smarts kit explains it!
BleepinJeep Thanks I appreciate the info
Does it work for all cars?
Matt I see what you doing here. Not trying blow you out of the water but a correct alignment consists of multiple measurements like Camber, Caster, Toe ,Thrust Angle. That tool used properly can work to adjust toe only if you setup your steering wheel too..
Camber isn't adjustable on a Wrangler. Caster is a function of where driveshaft vibration starts (when lifted), so isn't _generally_ adjustable. Thrust angle can only be properly done with full sets of adjustable arms, which a lot of people don't have. Toe is the most easily knocked of alignment settings and the one we have to worry about. But yes, more accurately called a "toe setting video."
@@TheRayDog Wait ... What?? Camber is completely adjustable on jeep wranglers. Lol Multiple auto part stores sell + or - (in degrees) upper ball joints to adjust camber settings. Thrust angle can be adjusted as well when doing a 4 wheel alignment. Matt is a knowledgeable jeep guy but some info is lacking is all I'm saying. Moving on.
@@juanmendoza1422 We both understand what he meant. Just that adjustments other than toe require non-stock items. Adjustable ball joints are not for the faint of heart and are beasts to install, and rarely used tbh as a result. Thrust angle cannot be adjusted with a 4 wheel alignment if adjustable arms aren't there. There isn't enough settable play in fixed length arm bolts to stick. For large % of Wranglers (like 85%), toe is it.
my steering kit got delivered the same time this video was uploaded
Hey Matt, you're right about the jeep needing to have a slight toe-in, but cars with a negative scrub radius such as a typical car with a Macpherson strut suspension needs to have a slight toe out.
It's one thing to for me to blab about something on the internet, but it's another thing for me to explain why i believe I know what I'm talking about. I've taken several hunter alignment classes, and also I took a steering and suspension class in school when I got my degree in automotive technology.
Hey Bleeping Matt, thanks for this video. 2 questions: are you still selling the alignment tool & what happened to all the other bleepers? I've not seen anything from any of them recently.
Yes he is. I just bought it off Amazon.
That will do your toe in and out for straight axels.
Hello, you’re saying the correct way is to have a slight toe-in and northridge4x4 is saying the correct way is to have a slight toe-out. Which way should it be?
That depends on which vehicle you're talking about
X Mo JL Wrangler
@@hydroboy35th
The stuff I'm seeing lists the alignment specs on a JL to be toed in.
Toe in = positive toe.
Tow out = negative toe.
Maybe you or the shop are confusing that and thinking positive mean out. That's wrong.
There's also things like cross camber and cross caster to consider. I'm not a pro. I'd ask a good alignment shop... like a race shop.
I find most places will send you away when they're not familiar with modified vehicles. Some shops know nothing about 4x4, diesel, imports, etc.
My local tire shop has a monkey🐒
That has no concept of alignments and he's the guy working the alignment rack. Wow. Find a good shop .
*usually* fwd are toed out/ -
And rwd/4x4 are toed in/ +
If you have steersmarts tie rod, they recommend a slight toe out, which is different from the standard toe in the jeep usually is said to need. Steersmarts folks have years in the business and I trust they know what they are doing
So I'll Need To Order Two?
Website says sold in pairs. $75
Whered ya get the jeep fan shirt!?
My website, Bleepinjeep.com
Subbed up ...JEEP GANG..LET ME KNOW IF TOU NEED A TOW!
I tried to recalculate the info stamped into the plates, and it seems like the calculations are not considering that both sides need .16 degrees of toe in. I come up with double the amount for x. Here is my calculation:
distance front to back on plates = 23", times pi to get full circumference = 72.22", divided by 360 to get the movement in inches of the front of one plate for one degree = .2006 this would need to be multiplied by four to convert to front measurement minus rear measurment, (front moves .2006, back moves .2006, then times that by 2 because this is happening on both sides, equals .8024 for one degree. Multiply by .16 (desired toe in degrees, = .1284, or one eight of an inch diff between front and rear measurements.