Interesting you chose Chuckie as the subject. I worked on that aircraft a couple of times in the past as an avionics tech. Interesting backstory to it. Doctor Hospers bought the aircraft, restored it to flying and airshow condition and named it after his wife...Chuckie. It didn't fly for years, not because it was not airworthy but because of a legal dispute between Dr Hospers and the airport the aircraft was based at, he couldn't use the airport. (long story) After his death Mrs. Hospers continued it's legacy at the same airport, and was the showpiece of the warbird museum that they established there. After her death the museum sold the aircraft, and it's been subsequently repainted and renamed.
Great video! Have you done any decals for models with dark colors? I have a white toner for my printer but even with printing a white layer first then the color image on top, the color of the decal reduces significantly after applying on a dark color surface.
Even if you could, you will quickly realize the problem there once you try to actually do it. Same goes for printing on white paper. These laser/inkject decals work - but for any color besides black, they only work when applied to white surfaces or surfaces that will bring out the color (ie, you can print magenta to get red if it's going on a yellow surface).
Hi, I'm a modeling noob who tried making his own transfers once already and have some questions about improving the process (I want to do it a bit better this time) - Last time I did it, I have not set the printer to glossy paper ( can't yet find the option to do so). My colored transfers were a bit translucent and only popped in to color on white/bright background - was this the cause or was my problem some other random thing? - What does the "setting the ink" process mean exactly? My expirience with decals so far was to just put them in to water, use microsol and then matte varnish the result. Missing a whole step feels concerning Thanks for the video, it was really helpfull
Standard printers can't print white and when they print colors on clear decal paper, the ink is translucent since it is assumed it was being printed on white paper. There are limits to what can be printed from home on a standard printer. There are creative ways to overcome most of these limitations but that is more then can fit in a comment. Since you are new to modeling, printing custom decals is pretty advanced. I would suggest to sticking to pre printed decals until you get basics down like build and paint quality. Once you have a handle on fundamentals then you could move to more advanced techniques. I highly recommend you join your local model club. Your skills will improve much faster that way.
Best bet for white is to paint the area where the decal is going to go white ahead of time. I say this while trying to figure out how I’m going to get some white for Mav and Goose’s helmets in 1/48 and 1/72 scale. Got aftermarket decals that didn’t include white parts.🤬🤬🤬
White is a challenge. I am making a video to offer some tips on dealing with white markings. Sub to my channel so you will be notified when the video drops.
Wonderful......But.. I build a LOT of 1/700 ships, specifically, aircraft carriers. Finding the proper tail marking is Tough enough, but can I print those tail marking In That Scale, using the free software?? Was looking for your link to that software. I have a laser printer and Have printed decals in large scales.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thanks for the Fast response... but do I need to Buy the Silhouette Cameo to get the program?? IF so... I'll do it, just need to know if I need to buy the machine.🙂
Hi, I have to ask the best one, I saw that you create decals, you use some special program on the computer, I would like to create decasl in 1\64 for cars, please give me some advice. THANK YOU
Right now I'm working on my homemade decals for a hungarian bf 109, a P51d and some other small stuff to pack the printed sheet, so I'm sure this video is gonna help a lot
Trying to figure out which paper is best suited for this. Turned out that the "ultra thin" sheets I bought were at least twice as thick as the ones that come with the kits, which really doesn't work on models. Even trying to blend the edges, there's still a noticeable edge that catches washes.
I prefer Bare metal foil decal paper. It is designed to be thin for models. Here is a link the white injet paper but they also have clear and both for laser printers too: amzn.to/3NPhlLN
I always scan my decals before use just in case I ruin one during application I can always re print them. Also I use (2) coats of Rust-olem Cristal Clear Enamel to seal my decals.
Which brand of decal paper do you use? I used to buy mine from MicroMark, but the last batch did not behave as well as the stuff I bought from them years ago. I don't remember the brand I bought from a local hobby shop (now closed) years ago, which also worked well.
Can you paint the white part and apply the custom decal? Without knowing the design of the decal, im not sure how best to help. White is the one color standard printers do not print so that is the challenge.
If all you need is a white decal, without a special printer that can print white you would have to either cut a mask to paint the letters in white or cut the decals from white decal paper.
The link to the free software I use is in the description of that very video. The video walks you step by step and Includes links to everything you need.
I use a laser printer and add an outer stroke to the image and registration marks and the cutter will cut the outer edge of the image or letters/images.
If I have the decal sheet or a similar sheet from another kit, I measure the decals. If not, using reference photos I measure where the lettering will be placed on the model, print samples on paper and check/adjust until they look right compared to reference photos.
There is a way to get your image to the right size when you don't have design software. Just place the image in a Word document (and make sure it is set to the same paper size you will use for printing). In Word you can set the image size exactly to what you need. Make sure you set the printing settings at 100% size / page filling or whatever it's called in your area (English isn't my first language). The printer may still leave a white space on the edge of the paper, as long as it does not shrink the page to fit within the printing range. I also keep a sheet of paper as a reference on the screen and zoom the document to the same size. This will allow you to measure the image from the screen (with a ruler or tape measure) to get a rough idea of whether the size is correct. And definitely don't forget to make a test print to see if your efforts have actually worked. This is just my cheap way of dealing with not having proper software. I don't expect anyone to take this route. Maybe someone will find it useful, but most people probably have the right tools when they start creating their own decals. I also used Powerpoint to recreate the image I wanted. 😄 You'd be surprised what it can do, if you are willing to spend time instead of money.
You will have to get creative here. You can try to trace from an image off the internet, or search for images of the decal sheet that has the markings you want and trace from that image, scan images from books etc. Just have to get creative.
Yes it can yet there are still some issues to overcome. They run $1-5k based on model. They can only run on windows 7 or 95 so you have to run a virtual mode on your PC and then run an older graphic software. You have to print an entire sheet of decals so you have to fill up the sheet with artwork for several builds. It can be done with alps but for the casual private hobbyist, it's not practical.
@Styrene Haven I tested with vallejo, and it seems to be working just fine. Keep in mind I used a laser printer and green stuff world paper, so it may depend on the products you use, as always testing before is essential
Interesting you chose Chuckie as the subject. I worked on that aircraft a couple of times in the past as an avionics tech. Interesting backstory to it. Doctor Hospers bought the aircraft, restored it to flying and airshow condition and named it after his wife...Chuckie. It didn't fly for years, not because it was not airworthy but because of a legal dispute between Dr Hospers and the airport the aircraft was based at, he couldn't use the airport. (long story) After his death Mrs. Hospers continued it's legacy at the same airport, and was the showpiece of the warbird museum that they established there. After her death the museum sold the aircraft, and it's been subsequently repainted and renamed.
Great story!
Chuckie! Seen it many times. Used to be in Ft Worth, TX until it was sold.
A great classic!
Great info! I had no idea how all of that worked; thanks for the video. And the B-17 is stunning; I should live so long...
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Have you done any decals for models with dark colors? I have a white toner for my printer but even with printing a white layer first then the color image on top, the color of the decal reduces significantly after applying on a dark color surface.
Not yet. Would love to see a video of your technique.
Hell yeah i cant wait to make my own decals!!!
Awesome! Not as hard as most think it is.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Until you need white. And you will need white.
I have wondered if spraying white ink on clear decal paper would work. Excellent video.
If you get this to work, please make a video!
Even if you could, you will quickly realize the problem there once you try to actually do it. Same goes for printing on white paper. These laser/inkject decals work - but for any color besides black, they only work when applied to white surfaces or surfaces that will bring out the color (ie, you can print magenta to get red if it's going on a yellow surface).
@@michaelportaro6926 I meant airbrushing bottled ink on clear decal paper. Then run that through the printer to finish the other colors.
@@splitsandpens I know what you mean. I print decals for a living. There is no substitute for printed white.
@@splitsandpensmaybe put white in after printing but before clear coat?
Hi, I'm a modeling noob who tried making his own transfers once already and have some questions about improving the process (I want to do it a bit better this time)
- Last time I did it, I have not set the printer to glossy paper ( can't yet find the option to do so). My colored transfers were a bit translucent and only popped in to color on white/bright background - was this the cause or was my problem some other random thing?
- What does the "setting the ink" process mean exactly? My expirience with decals so far was to just put them in to water, use microsol and then matte varnish the result. Missing a whole step feels concerning
Thanks for the video, it was really helpfull
Standard printers can't print white and when they print colors on clear decal paper, the ink is translucent since it is assumed it was being printed on white paper. There are limits to what can be printed from home on a standard printer.
There are creative ways to overcome most of these limitations but that is more then can fit in a comment.
Since you are new to modeling, printing custom decals is pretty advanced. I would suggest to sticking to pre printed decals until you get basics down like build and paint quality.
Once you have a handle on fundamentals then you could move to more advanced techniques. I highly recommend you join your local model club.
Your skills will improve much faster that way.
Best bet for white is to paint the area where the decal is going to go white ahead of time. I say this while trying to figure out how I’m going to get some white for Mav and Goose’s helmets in 1/48 and 1/72 scale. Got aftermarket decals that didn’t include white parts.🤬🤬🤬
White is a challenge. I am making a video to offer some tips on dealing with white markings. Sub to my channel so you will be notified when the video drops.
Wonderful......But..
I build a LOT of 1/700 ships, specifically, aircraft carriers. Finding the proper tail marking is Tough enough, but can I print those tail marking In That Scale, using the free software?? Was looking for your link to that software.
I have a laser printer and Have printed decals in large scales.
Link is in the description.
@@StyreneModelersHaven Thanks for the Fast response... but do I need to Buy the Silhouette Cameo to get the program?? IF so... I'll do it, just need to know if I need to buy the machine.🙂
You can download the software for free and try it out before buying a machine.
Hi, I have to ask the best one, I saw that you create decals, you use some special program on the computer, I would like to create decasl in 1\64 for cars, please give me some advice. THANK YOU
Watch my other YT video on creating your own decals. It has all the links for the software.
@@StyreneModelersHaven 👍
Right now I'm working on my homemade decals for a hungarian bf 109, a P51d and some other small stuff to pack the printed sheet, so I'm sure this video is gonna help a lot
Always a great idea to fill a decal sheet full of custom prints for several builds.
Awesome video. Will save this for future reference
Glad it was helpful!
Trying to figure out which paper is best suited for this. Turned out that the "ultra thin" sheets I bought were at least twice as thick as the ones that come with the kits, which really doesn't work on models. Even trying to blend the edges, there's still a noticeable edge that catches washes.
There is a link in the description of the vid for sheets made for models.
I have rustoleum matte clear coat would that still be ok? Thank you for the video it was incredibly helpful!
Not sure. It would be a good idea to test it first on some junk decals.
I'm going to build a panzer VII for a good friend and really wanted to do custom decals for him. This video is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Looks great! thank you for posting.
You bet!
Could I use water to dip in the decals and then use micro set and micro sol to apply the decals??
Yes. When you print your own decals, you apply them the same as any decals.
Great information, can u describe the exect type of paper / sheet? which using for decals
I prefer Bare metal foil decal paper. It is designed to be thin for models. Here is a link the white injet paper but they also have clear and both for laser printers too: amzn.to/3NPhlLN
I always scan my decals before use just in case I ruin one during application I can always re print them. Also I use (2) coats of Rust-olem Cristal Clear Enamel to seal my decals.
Great tips!
Which brand of decal paper do you use? I used to buy mine from MicroMark, but the last batch did not behave as well as the stuff I bought from them years ago. I don't remember the brand I bought from a local hobby shop (now closed) years ago, which also worked well.
I use bare metal foil decal paper. Here is a link to their inkjet clear. They also have white and both for laser printers too. amzn.to/430BnHD
Would Tamiya TS-13 work to seal the decals while on the paper?
Yes that would work. 2-3 Light mist coats.
What if I use the dull-coat lacquer to seal the decal onto the sheet, will there be a difference or problem?
Not sure. I never did a matt clear. You could test it and see.
@@StyreneModelersHaven just did, actually turned out perfect
Could i take a picture or multipe of a subject then use the software to size ot correctly
The software usually does not work well with photos but it's not impossible. It can be done with trial and error.
Hello, what do you do if need a small decal with white on the background, and the model is all black or chrome?
Can you paint the white part and apply the custom decal? Without knowing the design of the decal, im not sure how best to help. White is the one color standard printers do not print so that is the challenge.
@@StyreneModelersHaven just imagine white letter over a chrome color base😓😓😓, and the letter not big as 5 mm each
If all you need is a white decal, without a special printer that can print white you would have to either cut a mask to paint the letters in white or cut the decals from white decal paper.
wht kind of software / App u r using for print?
The link to the free software I use is in the description of that very video. The video walks you step by step and Includes links to everything you need.
I use a laser printer and add an outer stroke to the image and registration marks and the cutter will cut the outer edge of the image or letters/images.
That's a really good tip!
Thanks! Thought it would help.
Can the Testors GlossCote be hand brushed on? I don’t have an airbrush or an area in which to set one up for safe use.
It can be brushed on. I have never done it so you would want to test first.
Testors Glosscote does come in a rattle can. Brushing might disturb the print.
What's the best way to ensure the text/logo is the correct size from the computer screen to the model?
If I have the decal sheet or a similar sheet from another kit, I measure the decals. If not, using reference photos I measure where the lettering will be placed on the model, print samples on paper and check/adjust until they look right compared to reference photos.
There is a way to get your image to the right size when you don't have design software. Just place the image in a Word document (and make sure it is set to the same paper size you will use for printing). In Word you can set the image size exactly to what you need. Make sure you set the printing settings at 100% size / page filling or whatever it's called in your area (English isn't my first language). The printer may still leave a white space on the edge of the paper, as long as it does not shrink the page to fit within the printing range.
I also keep a sheet of paper as a reference on the screen and zoom the document to the same size. This will allow you to measure the image from the screen (with a ruler or tape measure) to get a rough idea of whether the size is correct.
And definitely don't forget to make a test print to see if your efforts have actually worked.
This is just my cheap way of dealing with not having proper software. I don't expect anyone to take this route. Maybe someone will find it useful, but most people probably have the right tools when they start creating their own decals. I also used Powerpoint to recreate the image I wanted. 😄 You'd be surprised what it can do, if you are willing to spend time instead of money.
Hi, I get weird white lines when I print my decals on inkjet paper.
That is weird... May need to do some printer head cleaning and test prints on regular paper to see if it clears up.
Where can I get images to print from
You will have to get creative here. You can try to trace from an image off the internet, or search for images of the decal sheet that has the markings you want and trace from that image, scan images from books etc. Just have to get creative.
HP has a printer that uses white toner!🤔
Jman
Good to know!
There is 1 vintage inkjet printer on this planet that can print White. The brand is "Alps".
Yes it can yet there are still some issues to overcome. They run $1-5k based on model. They can only run on windows 7 or 95 so you have to run a virtual mode on your PC and then run an older graphic software. You have to print an entire sheet of decals so you have to fill up the sheet with artwork for several builds. It can be done with alps but for the casual private hobbyist, it's not practical.
Damn I cannot print in white as I need white playboy bunny for my 1/48 SR-71.
There are ways around not being able to print in white. You could cut masks and paint.
Get a laserjet printer if you want to print white. Problem solved.
*Deeeeeeeeeee--cal* 👈🤣
Ha!
Is vallejo gloss varnish also suitable as clear film?
I don't think that will work but I could be wrong. I have only used lacquer clears as they aren't affected by decal solvents.
Very doubtful as Vallejo paints are water based acrylics. Likely will fall apart when soaking in water.
@@StyreneModelersHaven thank you for your answer, I'm gonna test first on a spare
@Styrene Haven I tested with vallejo, and it seems to be working just fine. Keep in mind I used a laser printer and green stuff world paper, so it may depend on the products you use, as always testing before is essential
Thanks for the feedback! Always love to see other modelers experimenting.