Don't Skip Learning These Historical Sewing Techniques
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
- Anytime historical fashion can be made a little simpler, it's a good thing. These are the 15 historical sewing techniques that I feel are must-knows, certainly learning can make your creative journey easier.
I've just passed the 1-year mark of my sewing journey, and I've been reflecting upon and taking careful note of what construction methods keep showing up again and again (specifically for 18th century fashion and 19th century fashion). Upon examination of my notes, these are the techniques that I feel I constantly see, and if you enjoy historical sewing from these periods as well, there's a good chance you'll come across these methods too.
Social Media:
Patreon: / vbirchwood
Instagram: / vasibirchwood
Facebook: / vbirchwoodhistorical
Business Inquiries: vbirchwood@helmtalentgroup.com
While I won't be demonstrating every single technique, I do mention other videos I've shot in the past that do explain some of them in greater depth, and down below I've included videos that have helped me in my first few months of historical sewing.
Hand Stitching:
My 7 Essential Hand Sewing Stitches video - • 7 MUST-KNOW Hand Sewin...
Lining Garments the Historical Way:
I explain these in the video. In summary;
For the "Georgian Method", wrong sides to wrong sides, place your lining against your fashion fabric and slightly stagger the edges so the lining is just a tiny bit smaller and further from the edge of the fashion fabric. Whip stitch all around the edges being sure not to go out onto the right side of the fashion fabric (stitching into the fold essentially).
For the "Victorian Method", cut a duplicate of your fashion fabric piece in your lining and flatline your pieces by basting them together, wrong sides to wrong sides, and treating them as one. The seam allowances will be exposed and you'll need to finish them using a method like whip stitching or with a silk binding.
Pleating:
For knife pleats and box pleats - • A Super Simple 18th Ce...
For cartridge pleats - • How to Hand Sew an Ado...
Shortening or Lengthening the Torso of Your Pattern:
This video was helpful - • How to Lengthen and Sh...
The English Stitch:
I explain this briefly in the video, but here is a full tutorial I made on the stitch - • ONE STITCH TO RULE THE...
Constructing Princess Seams:
This was a helpful video - • How To: Sewing Princes...
Stroked Gathers:
• Historic Fashion Tutor...
Pattern Matching:
• Pattern Matching Your ...
• Pattern Matching Part 2
• How to Match Fabric Pr...
Piecing:
My tips are, make sure you always leave enough seam allowance to connect the two pieces and try to choose areas that will be the most inconspicuous if possible.
Preparing Fabrics for Sewing:
My Fabrics Care Crash Course - • Video
Two-Piece Sleeve Construction:
• Sewing a dartless line...
Grading and Scaling Patterns:
This one is quite complex and really depends on what you need to do. Here are some helpful videos -
• How To Grade a Fashion...
• Scaling, Sizing & Alte...
• How to Make a Vintage ...
• Scaling up a Pattern t...
• Scaling up Historical ...
Time Stamps:
0:00 Introduction
1:52 Technique No. 1 & 2
4:08 Technique No. 3 & 4
5:40 Technique No. 5 & 6
7:24 Technique No. 7 & 8
8:30 Technique No. 9 & 10
9:22 Technique No. 11 & 12
10:47 Technique No. 13 & 14
11:39 Technique No. 15
12:40 Conclusion & End Screen
All music is from Epidemic Sound.
#HistoricalSewing #MustKnows #HistoricalFashion 
Хобби
Thank you so much for watching! What other historical sewing techniques would you consider to be must-knows?
One must-know skill to learn for 19th century garment construction is cording. Especially for the mid-Victorian period, adding cording made from the costume fabric to seams, or as decorative elements, will give your clothing an accurate and authentic look!
I find hand sewing it into seams easier than machine sewing, but it looks good either way.
I think what's also important to learn about vintage and historical sewing is the notching and clipping seam allowances, than are not so widely done today.
Good points here! I would add a philosophical tip for newbies: celebrate minor victories and embrace the process. When you start out everything can be confusing and seem insurmountable problems. And there is soooo much to learn and research in historical costuming. But even after one or two projects you will have learned so much. Pat yourself on the back. Write down things you learned. Then give yourself a gold star (literally or metaphorically). I still smile at my first handsewn 18th century pocket. But if you spend a lot of time berating yourself sewing won't be fun. We all had to learn this stuff and everyone has challenges. You aren't a "failure" because something has to be ripped out and redone. You are a sewer!
Thank you for all these philosophical points Skirted Galleons! I agree with them all and they’re important things to remember for everyone, no matter where they’re at in their sewing journeys 😊
I think that your channel is the most useful when learning about historical sewing because other similar channels are more about “i made a thing!” Or “the history of this garment”, and It’s not that I don’t absolutely love their content, they just don’t explain stitches and other small techniques that are important for beginners. I think it’s because they’re professionals or have been doing it for so long that they forget that it’s not common knowledge.
Awww thank you! (I love your channel name by the way 😊)
I definitely think that it's just because many other channels are more at a professional level, and since I'm very much a beginner myself, I just want to take you all along for the journey and teach the realisations I've had throughout my own process. I'm so glad that both types of content exist here on RUclips, because it just means this hobby/interest is more and more accessible to everyone.
agreed! it's nice to see a video catered more towards beginners :)
@@mirandak7242 thank you 😊
@@VBirchwood As a beginner, I have to chime in and agree. My sewing machine is useful for simple household projects like making tea towels or curtains, but I've long been fascinated by making a garment purely by hand. You've given me the courage to try. The linen has already been ordered. If I make a mistake, which is quite likely, so be it. I'll simply have another try.
If I may request a video, could you please do a tutorial on what threads work best with what fibers/weaves of fabric.
@@Miniver765 ah I’m very proud of you for getting that linen ordered! And that’s exactly it, if it doesn’t turn out as planned, it’s always possible to try again. The great thing with hand sewing as well is you often have a lot more tactile control over a project, so it becomes a little easier to correct mistakes if need be. Thanks a lot for your kind comment!
And thanks for the video idea, I’ve added it to my channel ideas list 😊
I like drafting my own patterns, because I find it a lot easier. A full bust adjustment is just as difficult and finicky, might as well just draft it all myself. Plus I’m very stingy, and I’m too lazy to tape together patterns if I don’t have to.
Something that I’ve found useful (whether it’s HA or not) is fo make bodice blocks for each of my supportive undergarments. So I have a bodice block for when I’m wearing stays, and one for when I’m wearing a corset, for example. From those blocks, I’m able to add design features and draft out a pattern that I like. I got the idea from Bianca, The Closet Historian, as that’s how she makes her patterns for her clothes (though they’re more 1950s). Still, the idea is the same.
I also have a basic sleeve block. From there I made an 18th century sleeve, and also a puffy long sleeve, by changing the length, or the sleeve cap, or the volume. And now I have a bunch of different sleeve patterns for different eras, all based on my original sleeve block. Just like with the bodices.
I don’t have any skirt blocks as of yet- most skirts are pretty easy to put together I find, so I’m likely to just make a pattern for each skirt I need and then keep those for future skirt needs.
I know that 18th century dressmakers would keep the shapes of their clients, so I think using a bodice block to make patterns off isn’t too different. And I know I’ll get a great fit, because I already spent the time making sure that the block fits perfectly. So even if it’s not perfectly HA, I still think that learning to make a block is a good idea, if only because it’s a perfect crash course in how to get a good fit.
Drafting your own patterns is a great way to go about things. I've actually been working on some blocks too, also following Bianca's tutorials, since it seems like a far more intuitive way to speed up the process in the future. The sleeve block is a brilliant idea, so thanks for that! It'll come in handy since you know how it is with historical, there's typically a recycling of similar sleeve shapes again and again throughout the different periods.
And honestly, who cares if it isn't HA. Sometimes contemporary techniques are great for making historical sewing more sewist-friendly and that's totally okay! But tailors would've kept blocks of their clients to build off of anyways, so my assumption is this contemporary technique of blocking had to have originated from some historical idea. I also really like draping techniques, like the ones traditionally used by historical dressmakers, but they require a really accurate dress form usually. I have a bootstrap pattern ready to use, just have to find the time to prioritise the dress form construction over garment construction 😅
Thanks for your comment Katherine, this information will really come in handy for others reading the comments section!
@@VBirchwood (also, I changed my name, this is Neartmhor). The Bootstrap form is good, I made one at the start of the year, but I discovered I prefer flat drafting over just draping, but she still comes in handy for a lot of other things too.
I’m a wheelchair user, so I can’t get on the floor to do something like a hem, but the dress form is exactly my height, so it’s easy enough to pop her on a table and use a hem marker to mark a hem where I can reach it. It’s also good for basic fitting.
@@katherinemorelle7115 I suspected it was you Neartmhor 😉 it’s truly fascinating how everyone has their preferred techniques. While you love flat drafting, some individuals I know swear by draping, and it’s great that there are multiple methods to construct the same garment.
I love your trick as well for how you make construction more accessible as a wheelchair user!
Remember to turn your pattern over to do the other half !
When you've made two left hand gloves before noticing the slight technical hitch ...... and despite years of experience of having two opposite hands, and using both of these opposite hands in making the said gloves.
My only excuse was I had made one on one day and the other on the following and forgotten to turn my card pattern over. Unfortunately no extra soft thin (expensive) grey leather ......... cut, snip, trim, reverse ..... more seams than on a corset, half hidden by all the gold embroidery applied afterwards. Not my most successful personal project. I can laugh now, sort of 😢
Important advice 😊
Great must-knows, I really need to get myself a hem marker.
Love the little vintage sewing kit in your end card as well!
Thank you Lilja! They make a world of a difference honestly. And thanks, I’m glad you like it! It’s an antique sewing etui from c. 1900-1920 😊
Right now Sandy has to mark my hem while i hold a normal yardstick to the floor haha! I think he would appreciate me getting a tool instead of him crawling on the floor!
it's lovely!
@@LiljaHusmo Hahahaha poor thing! It’s funny when partners that don’t actually sew end up getting dragged into it anyways 😂
Saving this video for future reference! I feel like I say this every time, but the editing and use of high-quality shots of the things you are talking about are absolutely on point. The combination of concise and thoughtful explanations with close-ups and clear examples was perfect. Always a joy to watch your videos!
Thank you so much Maia! I try to imagine what might confuse me if I saw a video, and then make sure that doesn't happen by adding in supportive explanations and b-roll clips, if that makes any sense 😊
I've been watching videos put up by The Closet Historian. She is a master of pattern manipulation, and I have learned so much from her.
She's wonderful!
I just started watching your videos and I love the information you have on historical fashions I myself were them I’ve been sewing over 40 years and I to love to hand sew
Bless my RUclips recommendations for sending me this video
Hahaha thank you! Welcome to the channel 😊
@@VBirchwood thank you so much!! I'm very excited about all the things im going to learn ^-^
Happy sewing (and learning) 😊
Sewing is an on going learning process. Those of us who sew regularly are always on the look out for tips and simple tricks of the trade to help a project come together better and neatly. What ever the project may be. I myself am an entirely self taught sewer. There was a lot of trail and error since my mom didn't really want to teach me for some reason. So it was up to me to figure it out on my own. When I was 10 she got me a little embroidery project. Probably thinking I would get bored of it and stop asking her to teach me. It didn't. It only added fuel to the fire for the desire to learn. Whenever we went to the library, I would look at embroidery and sewing books. I got pretty good at making small clothes by had and by the time I was 13 I was making Barbie clothes for my little sister out of scrap fabric, where ever I could find it. When I was 14 my mom finally caved and taught me to use her sewing machine and one of my very first dress patterns had princess seams. I couldn't make sense of them at first either, now they don't phase me. Though if it had occured to me then you can make garments out of sheets I probably would have been dresses to match the books I was reading. I probably would have made what I imagined at the time what a Swiss dirndl looked like and gone running through the pastures with my copy of Heidi. Or a Civil War era dress imagining I was one if the March sisters with Little Women. I might have looked every bit as ridiculous as Jane in Disney's Tarzan tromping through the jungle in her bright yellow bustle dress, but it would have made for some great childhood memories. 😉
So true, great advice, thanks DesertRose 😊 having all those costumes to play in would have been so fun!
This is a great deal of helpful information summed up quite succinctly. The inclusion of additional resources in the description is admired and appreciated, as always!
Thank you for your appreciative comment Erica! 😊
Thank you, I find this very helpful! I will try the "Georgian Method" for lining and I look forward your video on the english stitch.
My pleasure! I definitely do recommend the "Georgian Method" as it's a super easy and intuitive way to line. The English stitch video will be out in 2-3 weeks. Thanks for your comment 😊
Thank you so much for your informative content. I remember watching you since the beginning and i truly hope that you will be more recognised.i look forward to your future videos and thank you for bringing us along your journey.
Thank you so much, Katherina, for your support since the very beginning! 😊
This was a wonderful list. And I can’t wait for that video on the English stitch. 🥰
Thank you Kit! It will be out in 2-3 weeks 😊
Starting to sew a 18 century outfit, just finished an apron, wanted to start easy, im now making a shift...i have been watch as many videos as possible...love ur videos its help me a bunch...
Thank-you for this detailed and comprehensive video! I'm just a ordinary person who's interested in hand sewing and historical methods purely as a means to start mending and making clothes sustainably due to my more eco-friendly and autonomous lifestyle. Although I'm not a fan of sewing, I like the durability of historical sewing methods and I can appreciate the need for more meticulousness and time in sewing which in the long run, will save you work. I learned so much in this video so thank-you again! :D
Great list! One thing I find very useful and only discovered after some years of sewing - pulling a thread in order to mark a very straight line to cut on. Only works for tabby weaves and only helps when you need straight lines, but oh boy are they straight then
Thank you for these great tips, it is perfect for anyone like me who is just getting into this hobby!!
My pleasure Kendra! Thank you for your comment 😊
Thank you for this video! I thoroughly enjoyed it and learned new techniques that I will use shortly in making a period piece.
So glad you enjoyed the video! Happy sewing
Who would Dislike this video???
Thank you so much for the delightfully detailed Table of Contents!
Hahaha thank you! I think there are bots on the platform that go around disliking videos, but also perhaps my content isn't everyone's cup of tea 😉 Dislikes are almost always inevitable. And it's my pleasure, I'm glad it's come in handy.
Very helpful, thanks
Thank you very much for this video. I am just at the beginning of my historical sewing journey and this video help me to sort out (sorry, my English is not very good, hope I choose the right word) information. And it is really inspiring to hear that you don’t use sewing machine: it always scared me to think about such amount of work. But when I hear that some people hand-sew their clothes it doesn’t sound like something impossible.
I’ve been sewing modern clothes for about 15 years and my biggest problem is hemming. Sewing sleeves is easy, but hemming is really hard.
My pleasure! I am also a Russian speaker, so if you ever want to write a comment in Russian, I can answer back 😊
Before I started historical sewing, I also thought completely hand sewing a garment was an impossible and absurd task, but it becomes oddly familiar and usual once you do it very often. In fact, I couldn't imagine sewing clothes any other way by this point haha.
The biggest trick I've found with hemming is getting a hem marker. It makes everything so much easier. Also, with historical skirts (19th century specifically), skirts are often faced at the hem, and sometimes a twill braid or wool braid is sometimes used to stiffen the edge to help the petticoat stick out more and have a nicer drape. I am constructing a skirt right now where I use this method, so I'll have that video out in probably a couple of months.
Your English is great by the way!
A big oh yes on the Where is your waist bit! I've only recently begun to think that perhaps my actual waist is where most people call the high waist. I detest altering patterns but for sure, necessary evil! And I adore, adore, adore pintucks! No idea why, I just think they are so darling! Alas, so time consuming too. Oh, I really enjoyed the section on Edwardian vs Victorian linings, I don't think I have ever seen that mentioned anyplace. Thanks again!
Thanks so much for your comment Elinor, it’s always fun to read what you have to say 😊
This was very informative. Thank you.
My pleasure! 😊
I love doing sleeves! But I love doing big ridiculous mutton-chop puffs, so my secret is: go Large, pin generously, leave large seam allowances, and whip stitch first. Sleeves can be fun!
I’ve so far only made a few historical style garments, and have only been exposed to the Georgian method of lining. It was really fascinating to see your examples here of Victorian lining.
I'm so glad I could show something new to you! 😊 Flat lining is really cool honestly. It's fun to see it happening again and again in extants too from the era. I have a small personal antique garment collection and it can be very exciting to examine the sewing methods they used.
I would encourage you to watch the movie My fair lady. Especially the ballroom scene.
One of the reasons I got the mannequin I did was due to it having a hem marker! And it was on sale and my dad bought it for me because I was doing so much theatrical costuming for him.
Yes!! Great choice, and an added benefit that it was on sale 😊
@@VBirchwood That’s the part that sold my dad on the idea! I told him the price and the normal price and how much use I would get from being able to more easily hem things. He immediately said yes.
@@katwitanruna I don't blame him 😊
Thanks for this great resource.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Thanks so much for watching!
This is quite the resource!
Thank you! 😊 I hope it helps tonnes of people.
I have heard so many sewists decry making and setting sleeves. I understand that setting 18th-century sleeves is a whole different ballgame, but honestly getting bodice darts to do their job without looking wacky is much more of a problem for me. I am full-busted and the bust points have begun to lower as I age. Thank goodness for mockups.
Yes!! I can understand why darts can be really frustrating. They aren’t always too accommodating for different bust sizes, especially on some commercial patterns, and so require a bunch of modifications. Mockups ARE a life saver 😊
I know Im a bit late but I found and watched that video only now. I think all your points and techniques are great! I would only add: Learn how to iron/press your seams/hems/fabrics while sewing. I HAAATE ironing finished garments, but while sewing pressing seams and/or hems is cruicial for me. Everything looks so much neater, and some things are much easier to sew if pressed beforehand.
Welcome to the channel! Thanks so much. I also completely agree with your additional tip, it's super important to learn to press seams, etc. I appreciate your comment and for sharing this info with others 😊
While I don't intentionally do historical sewing, I seem to gravitate naturally toward many of the methods myself. I especially enjoy the Georgian hem (just had no idea what it was called).
Tysm for another seamlessly crafted video!
It’s funny how that can happen right? Although I don’t come from a contemporary sewing background, the little that I do know about contemporary sewing has taught me that some historical techniques are perhaps more efficient or have a more seamless finish.
I have no idea if it’s actually called the Georgian method, this is just the name I’ve given it because it makes sense to me! Haha
Thanks for your comment 😊
@@VBirchwood you are welcome. Thank you for answering. I don't know what it's called either, but I like it.
I don't use pre-made patterns for the sole reason of I don't own a printer. I usually just figure out how to draft the whole thing from the beginning and just keep the patterns for latter reference.
I would love to see a video on practicing these techniques. I don’t want to waste fabric but I want to hone my skills.
Practicing them or a tutorial demonstrating them? 😊
You have made a useful list of the things to learn about historical sewing methods. As for patterns, I prefer to draft from measurements using books, including old books.
Thank you! Drafting from old books is a true art, so well done 😊
@@VBirchwood it spares from the need to correct the fit (beginners don't know how), especially for the fitted historical(ish) bodices. I have a drafted a bodice from a 1900s Russian book - but without a corseted waist, and it was good. But I sewed it without any lining. A
Now I need a new draft and have more books. With these you also can see the way the garment is kind of meant to be.. It is true, too, that you need not only the draft but the method, the right fabrics. I try to improve my skills.
@@lizas.1526 говорите по-русски?
@@VBirchwood Да, я русская, в России живу.
А здорово! Я татарка 😊
Once again I have no tips or recommendations regarding sewing, but I like how the rouge complements the scarlet colour of your bodice, along with the deeper reds/purples of the feathers in your... hairpiece? Fascinator? I'm not sure of the period-correct term. Gorgeous look anyway. :)
Thank you so much sixstringedthing! Funnily enough, this is the terracotta walking suit I constructed a while back, but it's one of those colours where if it's lit differently/the colour grading I do is different, it ends up looking like a completely different colour! Much how it looks scarlet in this video, and it looks terracotta in my channel trailer 😂 It's funny how some colours like this can be deceptive. Fascinator would be a similar style hat in the 20th century I believe (around the 1940s, but it's outside of my area of study so don't take my word for it haha) and I have no idea what this style cap would be called in Victorian terms! I suppose it's just a late bustle/early 1890s style and it probably has a name, but I lack that information 😊
Does anyone know how I could find resources for 16th and 17th century techniques?
A technique that I struggle with is setting gores by hand... any guidance you could give would be great ^.^ Also, also - your wardrobe inspires me. Thank you for making this content.
Thank you so much for your kind words! What aspect of setting gores by hand feels difficult?
@@VBirchwood I struggle with getting the point to lay flat and even where everything meets. I usually whip stitch down the sides of the gore easily enough to place it, but make the point meet *and* stay flat... I've tried felling, whipping, plus, hemming the gore and body pieces separately and then whipping those together... nothing has worked. The English stitch technique you spoke about is a new one to me, tho... So, that was my next one to try, but if you have more specific guidance, I'd appreciate it.
Sleeves are also sewing. I only handsew and love it. Thats how I enjoy sewing sleeves🙃
it says the fabric care video is private.
❤❤❤
I prewash everything, its mother and its mother’s duck. It’s fascinating seeing what the fabric does without the sizing!
Hahaha this is a great way to put it. It is quite interesting to experiment, especially with fabrics that have a tendency to shrink a tonne after washing.
@@VBirchwood and it allows me to wash the garment which is always a win for me.
@@katwitanruna yesss it’s super important to make creations washable. I want all of my garments to be either washable or dry cleanable at least too 😊
@@VBirchwood :::nods:: I agree with you. I’ve only had one item I could not clean myself. All else goes in the washer or in the dryer with Dryel which is our local DYI dry cleaning tool.
@@katwitanruna ooooo a DIY dry cleaning tool, now that sounds interesting!
What tutorial do you have on how to grade a pattern? I have several historical patterns that I have not made due to the pattern size vs my measurements
Hi! I have put a bunch of links in the description box. There are several for pattern grading that I've found useful. I hope that helps!
@@VBirchwood thank you so much. I’m sure this will be very helpful. You are a dear. Thanks
@@debigick8539 my pleasure 😊
👍👍👍👍
😀
Enjoyable...hope this stays about costumes and sewing...and not politics and other sundry fluff.
Thank you! Politics are sometimes an important part of the discussion. This channel is about my experience of wearing historical fashion daily and what goes along with it. That means educational resources about all sorts, the good and bad parts of history. I’m autochthonous Indigenous to Tatarstan and an ethnic minority (Tatar/Cossack), so sometimes that plays a role in my experience of historical fashion, and I’m very openly historical style and not historical values. The reality of historical fashion is that it can be political because it is a direct representation of how people used to live, and the world has always been political to some extent because injustices do occur.
Well said ❣️
Yes, I know, I know. This is an old video. This is a comment for the algorithm.