If you can’t clear the code and are still having idle issues swap the ECU with a known good one. I was getting the same DTC code on my 89 civic hatchback with a D16z6 swap from a 95 EX coupe. The previous owner of the car messed up the wiring and fried the circuit for the IAC valve I changed the ECU and it fix the idle issue and the check engine light.
The engine is currently out rn. Well, everything is lol. But I was able to tame the idle enough to drive the car around before taking everything out maybe once I rebuild everything it should be good 🤞
Code 112 is not the IACV its the IAT sensor. Code 14 is the IACV. You can clear the code by unhooking the negative side on the battery and see if the engine light comes back.
What would you recommend to do? if I already changed the valve and the idle still going up and down. I changed mine today, the check engine light came on, I drove it. Turned off and on and drove again. The light went off but the idle problem is still there.
🤔 have you scanned for the code while the CEL was on? I'd try cleaning the intake manifold and throttle try replacing sparkplugs and pcv valve try messing with the idle screw as well that can definitely help
Theres also the fast idle control valve under your intake that needs to be screwed back to normal . Thats what causes high rpm and the Iacv is for abnormal rpm revving . Clean it out also with brake cleaner . The seal also makes a difference .
Could you share the link where you got the Valve? I see that the Old one is different from the new one you got, And im about to buy one new that is similar to the old one you had, Does it work even if its different?
It's actually the same part. The older one was just really coroded so the little nozzle where the hose goes into was rusted/broken off. I bought the valve at napa autoparts I'll get you a part number when I get home today.🫡
Let me ask you or anybody that can give me an advice here. My little car has that issue with idle going up and down. I replaced IAV, I cleaned and adjusted the other valve that goes underneath the throttle and still doing the same thing. We adjusted the timing and everything.
You check for any vacuum leaks? Another thing to look at would be your intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Pcv valve should be replaced too it's only like 5 bucks. That's really all I can think of right now I hope it was somewhat helpful.
@@budgetfixes good morning thank you for your reply. The car was doing long time ago, I over heated because didn’t know the radiator had a leak. They did rebuild the head block and did all new gaskets. I changed the aivc myself, cleaned and adjusted the other little valve under the throttle and the problem is still. They also did a smoke test and no leaks. What I found out yesterday is that the fan isn’t kicking once the car warms up or when it should you know. And it used to work fine before, I totally forgot about it until yesterday. The fan isn’t working. So someone told me maybe it’s the thermostat but I don’t know where that goes, but he said it is for sure a cooling system problem.
@@budgetfixes I’m still working on it, I had a guy that works a lot on those old Hondas to check it and time it with the gun. And he says that it’s getting or suctioning too much air in the throttle body. And he says it is an air leak, but we haven’t found it yet. According to him we need to remove the manifold to reseal it to see if the leak is there.
@@budgetfixes another thing I found out is that the cooling fan isn’t working. I checked the fuse and relax and they’re fine, I connected the fan to battery directly and works fine, I did short it in the connector that goes to the fan switch and it works fine. So the conclusion was the switch was bad, I went and got a new one, installed it and the fan is still not working. What do you think could be the issue?
If you can’t clear the code and are still having idle issues swap the ECU with a known good one. I was getting the same DTC code on my 89 civic hatchback with a D16z6 swap from a 95 EX coupe. The previous owner of the car messed up the wiring and fried the circuit for the IAC valve I changed the ECU and it fix the idle issue and the check engine light.
The engine is currently out rn. Well, everything is lol. But I was able to tame the idle enough to drive the car around before taking everything out maybe once I rebuild everything it should be good 🤞
Code 112 is not the IACV its the IAT sensor. Code 14 is the IACV. You can clear the code by unhooking the negative side on the battery and see if the engine light comes back.
What would you recommend to do? if I already changed the valve and the idle still going up and down. I changed mine today, the check engine light came on, I drove it. Turned off and on and drove again. The light went off but the idle problem is still there.
🤔 have you scanned for the code while the CEL was on? I'd try cleaning the intake manifold and throttle try replacing sparkplugs and pcv valve try messing with the idle screw as well that can definitely help
Theres also the fast idle control valve under your intake that needs to be screwed back to normal . Thats what causes high rpm and the Iacv is for abnormal rpm revving . Clean it out also with brake cleaner . The seal also makes a difference .
Could you share the link where you got the Valve?
I see that the Old one is different from the new one you got,
And im about to buy one new that is similar to the old one you had, Does it work even if its different?
It's actually the same part. The older one was just really coroded so the little nozzle where the hose goes into was rusted/broken off. I bought the valve at napa autoparts I'll get you a part number when I get home today.🫡
Do you have the link to the part you bought? Or where did you buy it from thanks in advance g
is there a relearn procedure for this gen?
Wait what? I didn't do any of that lol 😅
@@budgetfixes I know later models require a relearn procedure for the idle air control valve and other air control devices
You're right. I just looked it up. It's a good thing this year Civic didn't need that I guess I got lucky haha 😅
One year newer and you should’ve had the obd2 system.☹️. 1996 and up. Same for me
The hose that run to the valve where on the engine they came from
Did you figure it out? I have the same question.
Disconnect the battery to reset fault
Bleed your cooling system because it has air in it when you removed the hoses.
Let me ask you or anybody that can give me an advice here. My little car has that issue with idle going up and down. I replaced IAV, I cleaned and adjusted the other valve that goes underneath the throttle and still doing the same thing. We adjusted the timing and everything.
You check for any vacuum leaks? Another thing to look at would be your intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.
Pcv valve should be replaced too it's only like 5 bucks.
That's really all I can think of right now I hope it was somewhat helpful.
@@budgetfixes good morning thank you for your reply. The car was doing long time ago, I over heated because didn’t know the radiator had a leak. They did rebuild the head block and did all new gaskets. I changed the aivc myself, cleaned and adjusted the other little valve under the throttle and the problem is still. They also did a smoke test and no leaks. What I found out yesterday is that the fan isn’t kicking once the car warms up or when it should you know. And it used to work fine before, I totally forgot about it until yesterday. The fan isn’t working. So someone told me maybe it’s the thermostat but I don’t know where that goes, but he said it is for sure a cooling system problem.
@@budgetfixes I’m still working on it, I had a guy that works a lot on those old Hondas to check it and time it with the gun. And he says that it’s getting or suctioning too much air in the throttle body. And he says it is an air leak, but we haven’t found it yet. According to him we need to remove the manifold to reseal it to see if the leak is there.
@@budgetfixes another thing I found out is that the cooling fan isn’t working. I checked the fuse and relax and they’re fine, I connected the fan to battery directly and works fine, I did short it in the connector that goes to the fan switch and it works fine. So the conclusion was the switch was bad, I went and got a new one, installed it and the fan is still not working. What do you think could be the issue?
@@ricardosom7766bad grounds ? Did you check with a multimeter ? Solved?
And +1 for bleeding coolant properly as mentioned by someone else.
Hey check your timing for distributor that might help. I have a 93 eg hatch.
How would I go about doing that?
I cleaned out the high idle valve and that definitely helped still surges from 1k to 1.5k but now when I turn on the headlights idle is normal at 1k
You would need a flash timing gun they might rent them at autozone or you can buy them on offerup.
@@martinez0289 I’ll look into that thanks for the help!!!!