No doubt excellent kit but the cost of postage to the UK is horrendous and I'm not sure they like 18650's in our post. Mine came from China as 'spare parts' - OOPS! They work OK.
I have taken alot of the ryobi batteries apart and the ones that have 10 cells in them have a foam covering the terminals and cause rust to from on batteries so I leave out foam and tape or shrink wrap batteries and they last longer. So if your doing this just try I have noticed a big difference after a year of use my batteries are still going strong
Pete, in case you didn't know, the spot welder prongs go across the slot in the nickel strip, so the current goes preferentially through the weld rather than across the strip. It requires less energy too.
Yep Bruno showed me that, unfortunately what I didn't show well was the terrible job I did ripping the nickel off the two negative and positive cells lol
:-) Try using the flush cutters lying flat on the terminal to cut the weld under the strip, or a box cutter blade and a vice. That can slice through the welds without bending the strip much. Edit: Thinks... Grinding down the face of the flush cutters so that the blades are much thinner (½mm?) could work pretty well to cut the welds without mangling the strip. (Also rotating the cell while squeezing the cutters helps to save their blades from going blunt too quickly using brute force alone to snip)
I rebuilt one of those and the battery gauge would only read 3 bars. Researching on line it said that the cells where to far out of balance. So i removed the circuit board and then charged each cell to 4.0 v and then put it back together and it works great now. I get all 4 bars when charged so making sure batteries are the same voltage before rebuilding the packs now.
Did you ever figure out why those cells were out of balance? I have an old Ryobi pack, the ones 2.4Ah with 10 cells, the pack that when you press the power testing button, it shows either green, yellow or red. So when I press the power button, it shows yellow. I opened it up and 6 of the cells have a lower voltage than the remaining 4. I wonder if doing the same as you, taking the circuit board out and recharge the cells individually if it would work. What method did you use to recharge them? A battery charger or from a similar fully charged cell?
@@ruinunes8251 I used a tp4056 chip you can find them online and charged them all the same as the highest battery then put it on charger worked perfect if you got bad cells you need to replace them
I have the exact same battery pack. I opened mine and one of the cells is rusted and visually looks like the issue. I figured I have a little fun and try and repair this battery pack by changing out all 5 cells just like you did. I figured if I was going to go through the hassle I would put high quality cells that would give me alot of power and alot of capacity when I run the power tools off it. What cells would you recommend and why? I don't fully understand how cells are rated. I would like high capacity and high power cells. If you put a link in your answer I will click it and buy them so that you can get your commission. I am a total newbie to understanding cells... Any additional links or information would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance and great job on your repair.
I definitely want that spot welder!! Can you give some details? Not sure if you know, but if the batteries are in the opposite condition (indicate fully charged but do not work), is there a way to discharge them safely or should they also be rebuilt?
I've trying to rebuild a couple packs for Compaq Armada 7700 series laptops. I have a feeling the BMS cut them off due to low/no voltage. I haven't found a way to restart those BMS modules yet.
I hear this abit, some have got around it by soldering jumpers to bms from a different battery first then disconnecting the old battery.. this also happens with tool batteries..
Too bad we all don't have spot welders. Is there a work around attaching wires to the battery cells? They don't like the heat so it must be a quick solder?
Thank you for the vid! I opened my battery and all cells have 4.0 volts. The battery is 9 years old an will still work for minor projects. Considering the costs I decided to buy a new one and I also lack the spot welder. I might use the one at work but it´s for car repairs and quit strong an bulky... A new one costs 48 € incl. shipping and if I repair my one it would cost 30 € for the batteries and some stuff more like the nickle plates. There is also the risk involved.. So I opt for a new one with warranty and no risk of fire and explosion.
Funny enough i've gone the same route - Just got a new one also as this worked well but it's too much work with used cells and too expensive with new cells
Does the bms have mosfets for a low voltage cutoff? Most makita batteries dont and its done in the tool. If it doesnt it likely i can use ryobi tools with battery adapter.
Hello, and thanks for the video. I have the same model, RB18L15, and 2 of the 5 batteries inside seem to be dead. It seems really hard to find the same battery out there, so, what if I replace all the LGDAHB2 batteries inside it with sony US18650VTC6? Will it work? Thanks
hey mate, great video! Perfect editing, great pace, with just the right amount of details and no fluff. Thanks also for all the links in the description and debrief at the end! RUclips needs more like this. Shout out from Melbs. Thumbs up!!
What was the mAh of the old cells and the upgrade mAh of the new cells.What is the Max rated cell that can be put in , as I saw acell rated 8800mAh each, in my case 5x cells 2500mAh would equal what...1.25Ah? Mine 1.4Ah to about 4.4 to 4.5Ah?
This repair of elevating the voltage of the "uncharging" battery is in tens of Utube videos. My problem is that is not working for me and I;d like to hear an alternative method of repairing the battery. All 5 individual batteries have around 2.8 v which lets me guess that they are fine.
Thanks for this. I now know what to expect when I open up the battery pack. Also thanks for showing us the potential pitfalls of spot welding. I think I'll weld mine before I put it back with the BMS!
I just checked that only one cell is dead, shows 0V and can't be single charged with imax B6 charger. Can I just change one cell instead all 5? Seems changing all five (do I need C rating 5x or 10x?) costs around the same as new ryobi 1.5Ah buying all 5. Bear in mind it shows 1 led on when checking capacity and when charging using ryobi charger it shows 3 fully lit and 1 blinking green LED. On external connectors it shows ~3.3-3.6V and as a cell pack itself it shows 18V.
You moved at a good clip. Thanks for fast forwarding over the redundancy parts. However, don’t you think your viewer would want to know what amp/hour replacement cells you put in?- & how the bms might “see” them? And what was that spark incident?- Can one expect a certain % of failure to a new cell if it’s spot welded wrong? Otherwise, your ability to show viewer movement into this part etc...and that tab of nickel was good.
Whats your thoughts on using a BMS from a 5S1P pack into the 5S2P pack? Visually they look the same to me. I've killed my BMS replacing cells in my 18v 5Ah while being as careful as possible :(
Was under the impression that all you had to do in that case was manually charge the cells and the bms 'turned' back on again ? I'm no expert but that was my understanding
You should be able to reconnect charged cells. But it might also take "resetting" the bms by clearing the fault code. I've been learning about some of that working with the BQ76920 (texas instruments battery management ic). If it throws a code, it basically shuts itself down. In this case, the code thrown is cells undervoltage. I'll take a look at my packs and see which ic they use and see if there's a way to reset the chip.
Korishan, it's my understanding that laptop BMSs can even toast themselves by blowing a fuse to make sure they can never be used again after a fault. With the complexity that can be engineered in BMS firmware, and use of non-volatile memory, anything is possible. As Pete found a couple of years ago, resurrecting a BMS without any means to communicate with it or get access to the firmware is futile!
@@TrippySkippy8 Actually, no I haven't. I completely forgot about this and didn't look it up. 🤔😕 If I have time, and possibly remember, I'll take a look. Thanks for the reminder
I need an advice, I have an electronic instrument for frequency measurements that has a NiMH battery pack with 7 cells of 1.2v 4300 but total 8.4V nominal, during the charge comes a voltage of 13.7 V at no load, with the battery pack drops to 10.32 volts, also has a thermal sensor, according to you I can replace the pack with 3 18650 lithium cells in series, in parallel to other 3 cells always in series, logically aplicating the existing thermal sensor? Personally for the ambitious cold I prefer the LiFePo4 but are of significantly lower capacity, I should buy them properly, have a lower voltage perhaps more suitable for change? will a BMS be needed? Thanks and congratulations for the excellent videos very technical and interesting.
I'm not good with the math so i'll leave that to others, but from what i understand going from one chemistry to another will typically render the charger useless.
what a laugh, you're not good with math, how to say I do not understand anything about batteries ... I wanted to change chemistry because the Ni-MH battery pack purchased by the instrument company, roverinstruments costs over 160.77 USD / 225.76 AUD seems crazy, I found it not original capacity of less than 78.34 AUD, then with lithium last longer , I looked for individual items to redo the same package, but at the end it costs slightly less than 7 USD per item and the result is amateur, I also tried a longer duration in terms of useful life, because it is the second I would change! unfortunately the voltage is strange and the original package has 7 elements from 1.2V the instrument manages the charge and indicates the status as for a laptop, it will not be accurate, but I think 2 packages of 3 elements in series put in parallel, without BMS but with the thermal sensor of the old pack there are neither tensions nor currents suitable for damaging the lithium elements, rather they will be sub-loaded. Thanks for the great videos very interesting, I thought I had experience in replacing elements with more efficient chemistry
@@winterburan Hey there buddy! Saw your comment here, thought I would share my input! 8.4v divided by 1.2v is 7 Cells. You could buy an 8.4v battery pack from ebay for about $35, and replace the cells in the instrument that you speak of. It wouldn't cost ya $160. I would personally stick with the original chemistry, that way the original charger would still work too. If ya wanted to switch to a Lithium based setup, you would most likely need a BMS, or at least a protected battery, as ya can't just solder in Lithium like the old NIMH batteries were. Cell imbalance, overcharge, undercharge and other factors would come into place, which is dangerous. It does look like there are 8v lithium power tool batteries that you might be able to use, such as dewalts 8v system. However I don't know if those batteries are protected, as in having circuitry to stop the battery from being undercharged. But you could use the dewalt charger to charge the battery then. If I were to change the chemistry to lithium, (Depending on the draw of the device, I'm assuming your instrument is a lower drain device, Max 1amp draw) I would use an ebay 12v, rechargeable lithium battery, then use a buck converter to lower the voltage from 12v, to 8.4 volts, then create a box to house the converter and the battery. The Lithium packs, usually come with a charger, and the battery has protection and BMS built into it to protect it. They are also on the more inexpensive side. You would just have to wire everything up, and find a space on the unit to place the battery. However the battery would most likely not be inside the instrument anymore, creating a less than streamlined design. Anywho, there is a few idea's for ya!
Thanks very kind, I solved, the tool is an old Rover DM16Q, cost about 3000 USD many years ago, but still does his job, the Rover asked me as I said before about 160 USD, on ebay I found a 1/4 less, but I know they do not last and reliability is rare for old 1.2V Ni-MH cells type18670, the instrument has an internal slow charge circuit with step down converter, accepts input 12-24Volt DC and 17- 24 AC, the charging circuit had a probe for the temperature of the cells that I left and will never intervene, I took two battery packs 3S, 6 18650 lithium cells recovered from a package battrie sony and a BMS, I solved, 2 hours and 30 minutes of autonomy at the shutdown from the BMS and slow charge of 9 hours to have the charge voltage I will base the clock even if it exceeds 9 hours the BMS intervenes, the charging current is very low and everything is ok never lasted so long! Thank you for your interest photos.app.goo.gl/BcM9MMZay9gqkirBA (after the tests I have fixed the BMS well and replaced the cells with Sony)
I’d been thinking about trying this and found your vid. I argue with someone regularly about why tool manufacturers make this such a difficult thing to do but I’m too uninformed on electronics and batteries to know if it NEEDS to be hard for some reason. Why are the cells so difficult to swap out? Is there a reason other than that they want you to be buying more batteries? Seems like a nuts amount of waste that could be saved with a cheap simple swapable cell pack, or clip-in cells. Am I just an ignoramus? Thanks for the great video too. 👍
Can you rebuild an Milwaukee pack? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Milwaukee boards set a flag that says once the smart board senses a problem in one or more cells it shuts down and you can't reuse the board.
While prying off a nickel strip, I had one battery puncture and spray on my face. So be very careful and wear a face shield. New ones do not have screws holding the moldings in place. You pretty much have to cut them to get the batteries out. I guess ryobi doesn't want people replacing them.
Tool batteries are usually very hard to get the nickel off, it's a good way to pick a good/bad battery for sure. Only had one spray me so far. Mainly stick to laptop batteries.
Nice video. Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
I like the idea of using lower drain, but high capacity cells to make more compact, but longer lasting batteries for things like Lights, radio's and fans! Nicely done! What would you say the AH capacity of your new battery is with those cells? Is it better than the 1.5ah of the original cells?
When I changed the cells on battery 5,0 Ah, it didn't put out any voltage . When I pressed the "check botton", only flash at one led. Tested the cells and it had 20,5 V. The BMS "reseted" it self when I put the battery in a charger , took only few second (tested press the botton, al led OK. 20,5 V out from the battery)!
Wait another 24hours trying to run some more heat-related tests using them in hi-drain device & charing them as the charger charges at 1.8 amps by the looks of it. Only have the std charger tho
That big soldering iron make for a quick job. A smaller unit would have had to be applied for a much longer time to make the strip take the solder. Ironically a bigger hotter iron resulted in less heat in the batteries
Have you ever done this rebuild on the 40V. Oh just read this was your first rebuild Any thoughts on how to do this or is it hit or miss that its just a battery problem and not a circuit board problem
@HBPowerwall : How's it goin mate? Just a quick question, what are the chances you could supply me with 64 identical temperature sensors from some of the old bms's ? I'm working on a 64 cell battery capacity tester that runs the cells through 5 charge/discharge cycles and reports back the average curves, capacities and temps. The only thing I haven't got enough of from tearing down laptop batteries, is the thermistors. Specifically the resin dipped type, not the film type. (I don't see them being robust enough to be mounted into the 4 cell cases for repeated use). Any chance you could help me out?
The 1.5 ah batteries stop charging after a month or so when used daily. I use them for every thing circular saw, saws all, drills, drill drivers, sanders, 10" chain saw, weed eater just about anything I can. The 3ah or larger work well and last about a year with heavy use. I started taking the 18650 Ryobi Battery and use them in flashlights. They recharge and work well individually. The Ryobi1.5ah battery packs do not last very long.
You need more Ah, as the low power cells through heat and frequent recharging will fail faster. Go with a larger battery as you will as a result a higher powered drill etc and longer between charges, double on 5Ah battery, with the economy of less charging and a more powerful equipment.
Just to let you know pete, he high drain 18650 cells found in power tools are VERY different in chemistry. I have had very good success recovering 0 volt cells from power tool batteries vs laptop batteries where it's generally a hit or miss. It's very likely those samsung 13Q cells still work and the BMS just cut them off because the cell voltage went too low.
How do I know that I have a high drain cell or a low drain cell ? I’m assuming that laptop batteries are low drain and power tool cells are high drain.
Thanks! And great video, I was wondering about rebuilding ryobi batteries since I invested in those tools too. A DC charger for ryobi tools would be an interesting project.
Yes, love the tools and had some many of the battery through my workshop but never considered fixing them. I don't think I would trust or think it was worth dc to dc charing guess it could be done with those buckboost things
Ryobi is a great product line. They've come a long way in the past decade and half. They used to be bleh tools. Now they are worth their weight in gold, well, 18650's :P My uncle has a lot of hand tools. Because he had a lot, I went ahead and expanded and got other tools. I have the 10" miter saw. It works pretty good. Though it works better with the 4AH pack than the 2AH. I wonder how well it'll perform with the 6 or 8AH packs.
Yeah so far they are great. Haven't tested them all yet though, but I'm considering to buy their nail gun to build a tiny house. BTW I don't think capacity has any real influence of the power / performance?
Paul thanks for letting me know don't know what is going on a bunch are broken rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2055845.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.X709ad.TRS0%26_nkw%3D709ad%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5338074967&toolid=20008
Wow, they sure don't make things like they used to ! I bought, to be honest, a piece of garbage Arlec drill literally about 20 years ago, and the damn battery pack still charges up correctly and works perfectly fine, after having sat around unused for about 15 out of the last 20 years lol.
To be fair we don't know the life they have had - could have been cycled 300 times & stored in the back of a work truck in the sun all day. Charged hot etc many reasons they fail faster
great news Pete kinda bunnings have now got solar lithium batteries 2 pack of drum roll please 18500, the brand is solar magic and around 10 doll hairs for 2 so not really cost effective yet but they are available thumbs up, grinn
first of all, you need to push in the button to check the battery level then use the multimeter, without pressing that button it won't activate all the cells and will give inaccurate number.
The spot welder probably didn't do anything to the bms. The amps were right there at the tip and not running along any length of cable. There's probably not enough residual charge to statically run along the wires to hit the bms either. Also, the bms wasn't touching "ground", to the same ground as the spot welder. So I really doubt that is what is keeping the bms from functioning. I'm guessing that it is from the bms having thrown a fault code of "cell undervoltage" and is keeping itself from powering up. The fault code needs to be cleared first before the ic will fully be at the ready. There isn't really an mcu on those and they are controlled by basic logic from a "battery meter" ic which doesn't have much in the way of programmed abilities. It's all hardware level
for me the single Light goes away after each cell is at or close to 4.2v and Runs a Device. once drained a recharge and the BMS seems to function fine. so this might have to do with Calibrating the BMS??
The problem with this is the amount of energy stored in the batteries is significant. In the event of something going wrong you might get a fire. Extreme worse case it could burn your house down. Insurance will investigate and could well knock back claim if the battery is not genuine ryobi. So is it worth it? Same issue with any house wiring you do!
And if you replace your own car brake pads you might get grease in the wrong spot and have no brakes and kill a mother and child crossing a pedestrian crossing.
I started to watch this video out of curiosity then halfway through I realized that I'm never going to do this. When I have a battery that fails I'll return it if under warranty or recycle it. So, I stopped watching. It's not a bad video, I'm just never going to spend the effort or time to replace dead cells. I'll just go down to Home Depot and purchase new...
Not the first to comment, but close enough muhahahahaah. Cool video dude. I got a few 100 sanyo 1600mah 30a cells I been dying to use. Maybe try something like this 💪💪💪
HBPowerwall oh wow. I have that fan and it gives me about 9 hours of run time. But I don't recall on which setting I had it on. Those Tesla 4,000mah cells are awsome lol if they weren't so expensive, I would build everything with them lol
The cells may well be flat because they need charging and not because they are defective. Often the battery runs so low that the BCMS sees the low charge status as a defect and will not allow the charger to charge. Bypass the BCMS and charge the cells a small amount, then the battery can be charge with the Ryobi charger.
back in the day they were a pain in the ass, with eBay and the like they are so readily available they would have to use really obscure screw heads to slow us down.
HBPowerwall the company Ryobi pronounces their name "Ree- Oh-bee". The guys selling you the tools usually pronounce it as all us English speakers think the name is pronounced :P
Keiths eBay store for your 18650 needs - outstand service & packing that is second to none - if you need gear check his store out here - goo.gl/cJ3XLS
Thanks for the plug. Many hours going into Quality Control and safe packing procedures. 🔋😍
No doubt excellent kit but the cost of postage to the UK is horrendous and I'm not sure they like 18650's in our post. Mine came from China as 'spare parts' - OOPS! They work OK.
Humm I will check this link out. Cant find quality chargers or rechargeable batteries on amazon. It is all china trash in fancy labeled packaging.
I have a one+ battery made in 2013, and it still works just fine in 2021. That's part of the reason I decided to buy more ryobi tools.
@@jsplasha they've had the same batteries since 1996 lmao
@@bread-gz3rl i think he's refering to the cells
I have taken alot of the ryobi batteries apart and the ones that have 10 cells in them have a foam covering the terminals and cause rust to from on batteries so I leave out foam and tape or shrink wrap batteries and they last longer. So if your doing this just try I have noticed a big difference after a year of use my batteries are still going strong
Pete, in case you didn't know, the spot welder prongs go across the slot in the nickel strip, so the current goes preferentially through the weld rather than across the strip. It requires less energy too.
Yep Bruno showed me that, unfortunately what I didn't show well was the terrible job I did ripping the nickel off the two negative and positive cells lol
:-) Try using the flush cutters lying flat on the terminal to cut the weld under the strip, or a box cutter blade and a vice. That can slice through the welds without bending the strip much.
Edit: Thinks... Grinding down the face of the flush cutters so that the blades are much thinner (½mm?) could work pretty well to cut the welds without mangling the strip. (Also rotating the cell while squeezing the cutters helps to save their blades from going blunt too quickly using brute force alone to snip)
I'll give that a crack next time i decide to move down this path lol
I rebuilt one of those and the battery gauge would only read 3 bars. Researching on line it said that the cells where to far out of balance. So i removed the circuit board and then charged each cell to 4.0 v and then put it back together and it works great now. I get all 4 bars when charged so making sure batteries are the same voltage before rebuilding the packs now.
Did you ever figure out why those cells were out of balance? I have an old Ryobi pack, the ones 2.4Ah with 10 cells, the pack that when you press the power testing button, it shows either green, yellow or red. So when I press the power button, it shows yellow. I opened it up and 6 of the cells have a lower voltage than the remaining 4. I wonder if doing the same as you, taking the circuit board out and recharge the cells individually if it would work. What method did you use to recharge them? A battery charger or from a similar fully charged cell?
@@ruinunes8251 I used a tp4056 chip you can find them online and charged them all the same as the highest battery then put it on charger worked perfect if you got bad cells you need to replace them
Wolfman31566 Wolfman
I assume you charged them up while the cells were inside the pack or did you take cells off?
@@ruinunes8251 no disconnect the circuit board if not you can possibly fry the board
I have the exact same battery pack. I opened mine and one of the cells is rusted and visually looks like the issue. I figured I have a little fun and try and repair this battery pack by changing out all 5 cells just like you did. I figured if I was going to go through the hassle I would put high quality cells that would give me alot of power and alot of capacity when I run the power tools off it. What cells would you recommend and why? I don't fully understand how cells are rated. I would like high capacity and high power cells. If you put a link in your answer I will click it and buy them so that you can get your commission. I am a total newbie to understanding cells... Any additional links or information would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance and great job on your repair.
thanks...I am well invested in Ryobi tools and said bye to my Nicads 5 years ago....my first Lithium cell died this spring...you have given me hope.
I hope it's not false hope lol
NiCD's are great for experiments! No worries in undercharging! However Lithium is far more powerful! Hope ya get your lithium battery working again!
I definitely want that spot welder!! Can you give some details? Not sure if you know, but if the batteries are in the opposite condition (indicate fully charged but do not work), is there a way to discharge them safely or should they also be rebuilt?
I've trying to rebuild a couple packs for Compaq Armada 7700 series laptops. I have a feeling the BMS cut them off due to low/no voltage. I haven't found a way to restart those BMS modules yet.
I hear this abit, some have got around it by soldering jumpers to bms from a different battery first then disconnecting the old battery.. this also happens with tool batteries..
Nice video. Not everyone is able to rebuild like you do.
Too bad we all don't have spot welders. Is there a work around attaching wires to the battery cells? They don't like the heat so it must be a quick solder?
Thank you for the vid! I opened my battery and all cells have 4.0 volts. The battery is 9 years old an will still work for minor projects. Considering the costs I decided to buy a new one and I also lack the spot welder. I might use the one at work but it´s for car repairs and quit strong an bulky...
A new one costs 48 € incl. shipping and if I repair my one it would cost 30 € for the batteries and some stuff more like the nickle plates. There is also the risk involved.. So I opt for a new one with warranty and no risk of fire and explosion.
Funny enough i've gone the same route - Just got a new one also as this worked well but it's too much work with used cells and too expensive with new cells
I have Ryobi battery envy now. Thanks. Haha. Mine are old and require an occasional manual kick in the a55 jumpstart
Yep, i had a single cell fail on one of mine the other day again but to be fair it was like 5 yrs old
Thank you teaching all of us a lesson.
I don't like teaching - love showing my process :) And hope others can learn from my mistakes/successes
Does the bms have mosfets for a low voltage cutoff? Most makita batteries dont and its done in the tool. If it doesnt it likely i can use ryobi tools with battery adapter.
You are our only hope Obi-Wan Ryobi... :))
Ooh Richard, I saw what you did and approve lol
Ahaha...yeah.
Hello, and thanks for the video. I have the same model, RB18L15, and 2 of the 5 batteries inside seem to be dead. It seems really hard to find the same battery out there, so, what if I replace all the LGDAHB2 batteries inside it with sony US18650VTC6? Will it work? Thanks
Good job dude I just got through redoing one of them it was 1.5 now it's 2.0 it's a lot better
Less land fill is good! well done
hey mate, great video! Perfect editing, great pace, with just the right amount of details and no fluff. Thanks also for all the links in the description and debrief at the end! RUclips needs more like this. Shout out from Melbs. Thumbs up!!
Thanks for the watch Luke...
Any have a good source for 18650s in Australia? Seems the same or cheaper to just buy a new Ryobi battery at the moment.
After you changed the BMS you had your 4 LEDs light up on the test button but did you still get 5v on the tower terminals as before??
Can't remember to be honest!
What was the mAh of the old cells and the upgrade mAh of the new cells.What is the Max rated cell that can be put in , as I saw acell rated 8800mAh each, in my case 5x cells 2500mAh would equal what...1.25Ah?
Mine 1.4Ah to about 4.4 to 4.5Ah?
This repair of elevating the voltage of the "uncharging" battery is in
tens of Utube videos. My problem is that is not working for me and I;d
like to hear an alternative method of repairing the battery. All 5 individual batteries have around 2.8 v which lets me guess that they are fine.
You could also try to charge them manually with a lab bench power supply. Maybe for a future test :)
👍
Thanks for this. I now know what to expect when I open up the battery pack. Also thanks for showing us the potential pitfalls of spot welding. I think I'll weld mine before I put it back with the BMS!
Spotweld for sure!
So the dead battery may have had a bad BMS. Was the other doner pack also dead?
Great video. Best I've seen yet. Do you have to use cell protectors?
Love the Crows in the background audio bro!
I just checked that only one cell is dead, shows 0V and can't be single charged with imax B6 charger. Can I just change one cell instead all 5? Seems changing all five (do I need C rating 5x or 10x?) costs around the same as new ryobi 1.5Ah buying all 5. Bear in mind it shows 1 led on when checking capacity and when charging using ryobi charger it shows 3 fully lit and 1 blinking green LED. On external connectors it shows ~3.3-3.6V and as a cell pack itself it shows 18V.
You moved at a good clip. Thanks for fast forwarding over the redundancy parts. However, don’t you think your viewer would want to know what amp/hour replacement cells you put in?-
& how the bms might “see” them?
And what was that spark incident?-
Can one expect a certain % of failure to a new cell if it’s spot welded wrong? Otherwise, your ability to show viewer movement into this part etc...and that tab of nickel was good.
Whats your thoughts on using a BMS from a 5S1P pack into the 5S2P pack? Visually they look the same to me. I've killed my BMS replacing cells in my 18v 5Ah while being as careful as possible :(
For anyone interested I've bought a BMS replica from Ebay obv made in China. $11 delivered. Works a treat so far!
@@andrebonastre4597 Do you have a link please ? Thanks a lot
Can't beat the deal!
Hello, where could I buy a bms for a 18v, 2Ah Ryobi ?
So wich battery’s should I get I didn’t quite understand wich battery’s your replacing them for
It's been so long i can 't remember sorry
Do the BMS boards cut out any feed to the power tool on low voltage? Unsure if the tool does this or does the BMS do this?
I believe that is the way it works
Hell yeah rebuilds
Need to get the spot welder back to it's home so had to get this one done today lol
Some of these pack bmss has a protection thing where they won't work anymore if the battery gets discharged below a "safe" level...
Was under the impression that all you had to do in that case was manually charge the cells and the bms 'turned' back on again ? I'm no expert but that was my understanding
You should be able to reconnect charged cells. But it might also take "resetting" the bms by clearing the fault code. I've been learning about some of that working with the BQ76920 (texas instruments battery management ic). If it throws a code, it basically shuts itself down. In this case, the code thrown is cells undervoltage. I'll take a look at my packs and see which ic they use and see if there's a way to reset the chip.
Korishan, it's my understanding that laptop BMSs can even toast themselves by blowing a fuse to make sure they can never be used again after a fault.
With the complexity that can be engineered in BMS firmware, and use of non-volatile memory, anything is possible.
As Pete found a couple of years ago, resurrecting a BMS without any means to communicate with it or get access to the firmware is futile!
@@korishan have you found a way to reset the bms?
@@TrippySkippy8 Actually, no I haven't. I completely forgot about this and didn't look it up. 🤔😕
If I have time, and possibly remember, I'll take a look. Thanks for the reminder
I need an advice, I have an electronic instrument for frequency measurements that has a NiMH battery pack with 7 cells of 1.2v 4300 but total 8.4V nominal, during the charge comes a voltage of 13.7 V at no load, with the battery pack drops to 10.32 volts, also has a thermal sensor, according to you I can replace the pack with 3 18650 lithium cells in series, in parallel to other 3 cells always in series, logically aplicating the existing thermal sensor?
Personally for the ambitious cold I prefer the LiFePo4 but are of significantly lower capacity, I should buy them properly, have a lower voltage perhaps more suitable for change? will a BMS be needed?
Thanks and congratulations for the excellent videos very technical and interesting.
I'm not good with the math so i'll leave that to others, but from what i understand going from one chemistry to another will typically render the charger useless.
what a laugh, you're not good with math, how to say I do not understand anything about batteries ...
I wanted to change chemistry because the Ni-MH battery pack purchased by the instrument company, roverinstruments costs over 160.77 USD / 225.76 AUD seems crazy, I found it not original capacity of less than 78.34 AUD, then with lithium last longer , I looked for individual items to redo the same package, but at the end it costs slightly less than 7 USD per item and the result is amateur, I also tried a longer duration in terms of useful life, because it is the second I would change! unfortunately the voltage is strange and the original package has 7 elements from 1.2V the instrument manages the charge and indicates the status as for a laptop, it will not be accurate, but I think 2 packages of 3 elements in series put in parallel, without BMS but with the thermal sensor of the old pack there are neither tensions nor currents suitable for damaging the lithium elements, rather they will be sub-loaded.
Thanks for the great videos very interesting, I thought I had experience in replacing elements with more efficient chemistry
@@winterburan Hey there buddy! Saw your comment here, thought I would share my input! 8.4v divided by 1.2v is 7 Cells. You could buy an 8.4v battery pack from ebay for about $35, and replace the cells in the instrument that you speak of. It wouldn't cost ya $160. I would personally stick with the original chemistry, that way the original charger would still work too.
If ya wanted to switch to a Lithium based setup, you would most likely need a BMS, or at least a protected battery, as ya can't just solder in Lithium like the old NIMH batteries were. Cell imbalance, overcharge, undercharge and other factors would come into place, which is dangerous.
It does look like there are 8v lithium power tool batteries that you might be able to use, such as dewalts 8v system. However I don't know if those batteries are protected, as in having circuitry to stop the battery from being undercharged. But you could use the dewalt charger to charge the battery then.
If I were to change the chemistry to lithium, (Depending on the draw of the device, I'm assuming your instrument is a lower drain device, Max 1amp draw) I would use an ebay 12v, rechargeable lithium battery, then use a buck converter to lower the voltage from 12v, to 8.4 volts, then create a box to house the converter and the battery. The Lithium packs, usually come with a charger, and the battery has protection and BMS built into it to protect it. They are also on the more inexpensive side. You would just have to wire everything up, and find a space on the unit to place the battery. However the battery would most likely not be inside the instrument anymore, creating a less than streamlined design.
Anywho, there is a few idea's for ya!
Thanks very kind, I solved, the tool is an old Rover DM16Q, cost about 3000 USD many years ago, but still does his job, the Rover asked me as I said before about 160 USD, on ebay I found a 1/4 less, but I know they do not last and reliability is rare for old 1.2V Ni-MH cells type18670, the instrument has an internal slow charge circuit with step down converter, accepts input 12-24Volt DC and 17- 24 AC, the charging circuit had a probe for the temperature of the cells that I left and will never intervene, I took two battery packs 3S, 6 18650 lithium cells recovered from a package battrie sony and a BMS, I solved, 2 hours and 30 minutes of autonomy at the shutdown from the BMS and slow charge of 9 hours to have the charge voltage I will base the clock even if it exceeds 9 hours the BMS intervenes, the charging current is very low and everything is ok never lasted so long!
Thank you for your interest
photos.app.goo.gl/BcM9MMZay9gqkirBA (after the tests I have fixed the BMS well and replaced the cells with Sony)
I saw your video well.
It's great.
Did you replace the BMS?
Or did you use the BMS of a previously broken battery? I want to know.
Thank you.
used the original BMS
I’d been thinking about trying this and found your vid. I argue with someone regularly about why tool manufacturers make this such a difficult thing to do but I’m too uninformed on electronics and batteries to know if it NEEDS to be hard for some reason. Why are the cells so difficult to swap out? Is there a reason other than that they want you to be buying more batteries? Seems like a nuts amount of waste that could be saved with a cheap simple swapable cell pack, or clip-in cells. Am I just an ignoramus? Thanks for the great video too. 👍
Look up uncle rich , he is my fav RUclipsr
Can you rebuild an Milwaukee pack? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Milwaukee boards set a flag that says once the smart board senses a problem in one or more cells it shuts down and you can't reuse the board.
Don't know i'm sorry - i've only done a handful
@@HBPowerwall okay, thanks
While prying off a nickel strip, I had one battery puncture and spray on my face. So be very careful and wear a face shield. New ones do not have screws holding the moldings in place. You pretty much have to cut them to get the batteries out. I guess ryobi doesn't want people replacing them.
Tool batteries are usually very hard to get the nickel off, it's a good way to pick a good/bad battery for sure. Only had one spray me so far. Mainly stick to laptop batteries.
Nice video.
Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
Great job showing all those steps. A little too much for a home user though. I wonder if someone is offering that service in Dallas, Texas?
If not someone should :) Bet there is money to be made if you could get the process down!
I like the idea of using lower drain, but high capacity cells to make more compact, but longer lasting batteries for things like Lights, radio's and fans! Nicely done!
What would you say the AH capacity of your new battery is with those cells? Is it better than the 1.5ah of the original cells?
New battery would have to be 2.5ah at least - great for the fan - no high drain applications tho
When I changed the cells on battery 5,0 Ah, it didn't put out any voltage . When I pressed the "check botton", only flash at one led. Tested the cells and it had 20,5 V. The BMS "reseted" it self when I put the battery in a charger , took only few second (tested press the botton, al led OK. 20,5 V out from the battery)!
So in Australia, pliers are the same as wire snipers. What does a hammer do then?
Keeps the kids quiet...
Love your video and links
thank-you
Perfect! Mine just died. Going to replace the cells.
Wait another 24hours trying to run some more heat-related tests using them in hi-drain device & charing them as the charger charges at 1.8 amps by the looks of it. Only have the std charger tho
You don't happen to have any old shells (specifically the top half undamaged) you're not using anymore laying around by any chance?
I have a box of 20 laying around some where i was planning on rebuilding.
“Let’s minimize the heat going into those cells...” proceeds to use the biggest fucking soldering iron he has.🤣🤣🤣🤣
To be fair i don't think it was the biggest
That big soldering iron make for a quick job.
A smaller unit would have had to be applied for a much longer time to make the strip take the solder.
Ironically a bigger hotter iron resulted in less heat in the batteries
Found out the hard way with the Vanon rebuild I did, these things are very sensitive to spikes etc 😏 Good video
Bloody Vanon the rippoff bastards!
Nice. Very familiar, this one.
definitely been done before : )
Have you ever done this rebuild on the 40V. Oh just read this was your first rebuild
Any thoughts on how to do this or is it hit or miss that its just a battery problem and not a circuit board problem
I THINK it was overheated - all the CID's popped and all cells read 0v
How can I buy , or order battery replacement, ..I have 9.6v, 18v, 12v, too, they don't sell , so I want to replace x new battery.(I guess fron china)?
Get yourself a TS100, it's a pretty tough little bugger and you can rig it to run directly off a pack of batteries.
Humm interesting
Is it okay if I use the 3.7 volts 18650? Thanks.
Typically an 18650 cell is 3.7v so yes?
Does a Ryobi battery have the over-discharge prevention circuit built-in, or is it on the tools?
marks47 tools are passive, control and protection are in the batteries for Ryobi One+.
That fan also accepts mains supply in the back too?
Yes it does
@HBPowerwall : How's it goin mate? Just a quick question, what are the chances you could supply me with 64 identical temperature sensors from some of the old bms's ? I'm working on a 64 cell battery capacity tester that runs the cells through 5 charge/discharge cycles and reports back the average curves, capacities and temps. The only thing I haven't got enough of from tearing down laptop batteries, is the thermistors. Specifically the resin dipped type, not the film type. (I don't see them being robust enough to be mounted into the 4 cell cases for repeated use).
Any chance you could help me out?
I have that box on the floor with all the old laptop bms's your welcome to - but i ain't digging through that much nickle strip to find them lol
The 1.5 ah batteries stop charging after a month or so when used daily. I use them for every thing circular saw, saws all, drills, drill drivers, sanders, 10" chain saw, weed eater just about anything I can. The 3ah or larger work well and last about a year with heavy use. I started taking the 18650 Ryobi Battery and use them in flashlights. They recharge and work well individually. The Ryobi1.5ah battery packs do not last very long.
You need more Ah, as the low power cells through heat and frequent recharging will fail faster.
Go with a larger battery as you will as a result a higher powered drill etc and longer between charges, double on 5Ah battery, with the economy of less charging and a more powerful equipment.
What is the name of the 2 pin tool that you use to weld the tabs to batteries? Thanks
These things? ebay.to/2H9jka2
What type of screw heads are those to take them off? On the battery
T8 from memory
Can you soldier the strips back on or do they have to be spot welded
you could, BUT not ideal
@@HBPowerwall I imagine that would be a lot of heat going into the batteries to try and solder on.
hi, which batteries would you recommand for upgrade 1.5amp and 4amp packs? thanks
Aslong as its not high drain appliance
Hi
By any chance do you know if the electronic board from ryobi 2.5Ah ( RB18L26) battery can be used in 4Ah battery?
I've done it but you need to change the heat sinks from memory
Great Rebuild! No BOOOBMS💥😆👍
Oooo but I DID BOOOOM it, few days after this video I was messing with the BMS trying to learn stuff and BOOOOM big woops moment
Just to let you know pete, he high drain 18650 cells found in power tools are VERY different in chemistry. I have had very good success recovering 0 volt cells from power tool batteries vs laptop batteries where it's generally a hit or miss. It's very likely those samsung 13Q cells still work and the BMS just cut them off because the cell voltage went too low.
Check out the next video - hehe - ruclips.net/video/cILuXf3N5jQ/видео.html
How do I know that I have a high drain cell or a low drain cell ?
I’m assuming that laptop batteries are low drain and power tool cells are high drain.
So they do actually have a balancing system? Or just a BMS?
Yes they do balance
Thanks! And great video, I was wondering about rebuilding ryobi batteries since I invested in those tools too.
A DC charger for ryobi tools would be an interesting project.
Yes, love the tools and had some many of the battery through my workshop but never considered fixing them. I don't think I would trust or think it was worth dc to dc charing guess it could be done with those buckboost things
Ryobi is a great product line. They've come a long way in the past decade and half. They used to be bleh tools. Now they are worth their weight in gold, well, 18650's :P
My uncle has a lot of hand tools. Because he had a lot, I went ahead and expanded and got other tools. I have the 10" miter saw. It works pretty good. Though it works better with the 4AH pack than the 2AH. I wonder how well it'll perform with the 6 or 8AH packs.
Yeah so far they are great. Haven't tested them all yet though, but I'm considering to buy their nail gun to build a tiny house.
BTW I don't think capacity has any real influence of the power / performance?
Check your 2 mosfets on the front of the board. The ones in the heat sink.
very nice what model welder machine you used
spotwelder is a www.secondlifestorage.com/709ad from memory
@@HBPowerwall Thank you so much.
May I ask where you got the battery spot welder? And about how much do they cost?
Off ebay sunko 709 www.diypowerwalls.com/709ad works awesome
@@HBPowerwall can't get this link to work do you have updated link
Paul thanks for letting me know don't know what is going on a bunch are broken rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53470-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2055845.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.X709ad.TRS0%26_nkw%3D709ad%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5338074967&toolid=20008
And what's the verdict on capacity (in low drain devices)?
Works perfectly, runs the whipper for 10min at a time with out getting too hot (battery does warm tho)
Great video! Watch out for Sparks! Haha
great video
Thanks!
how long did that take?
Longer than it was worth lol
Any recomendations to a similar (or links to exact) spot welder?
It's this one on ebay - goo.gl/hmVZH4
Thank you! - You have come a looong way M8. Truly impressed, inspired and grateful!
Sometimes it feels like I'm going backwards lol might have to release all the videos I've started and never finished cause something blew up hehe
The ncr18650 cells from Panasonic can handle 5amps discharge and 2a nominal charge. So do not use with ryobi vacuum
I only use them in fan and light.. still going strong !
I love fixing things... Did you try to test the 0V cells and revive them?
Was considering it, should take it a little further for sure.
Not just me, but I think people would like to know how they do... subject for a short new vid! :-)
Yep for sure, got a few good ideas from comments on this video :)
Wow, they sure don't make things like they used to !
I bought, to be honest, a piece of garbage Arlec drill literally about 20 years ago, and the damn battery pack still charges up correctly and works perfectly fine, after having sat around unused for about 15 out of the last 20 years lol.
To be fair we don't know the life they have had - could have been cycled 300 times & stored in the back of a work truck in the sun all day. Charged hot etc many reasons they fail faster
@7:55 I felt that.
Good build, HB. Sounds like you're in a hurry though. :)
I got this video done in three hours - so i kinda was lol
Love this video!! Great work!! Thanks for sharing!! ❤ ☝
Thank-You Mr Zero :)
great news Pete kinda bunnings have now got solar lithium batteries 2 pack of drum roll please 18500, the brand is solar magic and around 10 doll hairs for 2 so not really cost effective yet but they are available thumbs up, grinn
Got to go down to the local Bunnings tomorrow i'll have a look for some to test :)
try in the light section where i found the ones in woodville bunnings
nice - will do TY
no probs happy to help i was a bit shocked to see them actually as it generally takes years for anyrhing to come thru like the U.S. stuff
be fun to tinker with ..
first of all, you need to push in the button to check the battery level then use the multimeter, without pressing that button it won't activate all the cells and will give inaccurate number.
arrr - cool thanks for the tip
The spot welder probably didn't do anything to the bms. The amps were right there at the tip and not running along any length of cable. There's probably not enough residual charge to statically run along the wires to hit the bms either. Also, the bms wasn't touching "ground", to the same ground as the spot welder. So I really doubt that is what is keeping the bms from functioning.
I'm guessing that it is from the bms having thrown a fault code of "cell undervoltage" and is keeping itself from powering up. The fault code needs to be cleared first before the ic will fully be at the ready. There isn't really an mcu on those and they are controlled by basic logic from a "battery meter" ic which doesn't have much in the way of programmed abilities. It's all hardware level
Your theory sounds good, if you find anything on that ic let me know i'll put the bms aside for later testing
for me the single Light goes away after each cell is at or close to 4.2v and Runs a Device. once drained a recharge and the BMS seems to function fine. so this might have to do with Calibrating the BMS??
Any new info on resetting these?
Good work :)
Thank-You Sir!
The problem with this is the amount of energy stored in the batteries is significant. In the event of something going wrong you might get a fire. Extreme worse case it could burn your house down. Insurance will investigate and could well knock back claim if the battery is not genuine ryobi. So is it worth it? Same issue with any house wiring you do!
And if you replace your own car brake pads you might get grease in the wrong spot and have no brakes and kill a mother and child crossing a pedestrian crossing.
Beware that the positive end is also a fuse. If you replace that with your own nickel strip there is no fuse anymore ...
not really from memory, there is the CID that acts kinda as a fuse or disconnect
Ryobi batteries are like my wife's credit card. Neither one will hold a charge.
You need a new wife!
I started to watch this video out of curiosity then halfway through I realized that I'm never going to do this. When I have a battery that fails I'll return it if under warranty or recycle it. So, I stopped watching. It's not a bad video, I'm just never going to spend the effort or time to replace dead cells. I'll just go down to Home Depot and purchase new...
Ooh I agree lol
What you did most people will not be able to do, I definitely will not try this. Although it may work, this was not an easy fix.
Not the first to comment, but close enough muhahahahaah. Cool video dude. I got a few 100 sanyo 1600mah 30a cells I been dying to use. Maybe try something like this 💪💪💪
I have a 4ah one that displays the same fault, i hope to be able to fix that one up too. Will get 15hrs run time on the fan lol
how did you end up with so many 30a Sanyo's?
HBPowerwall following links from the youtuber you broke up with. Smsh. Made a few bad buys when I was getting started.
Didnt want to name him.
HBPowerwall oh wow. I have that fan and it gives me about 9 hours of run time. But I don't recall on which setting I had it on. Those Tesla 4,000mah cells are awsome lol if they weren't so expensive, I would build everything with them lol
Can you solder instead of welding, that welder is over $300
I have soldered 5000 plus cells - better to weld..
HBPowerwall my point is $300 welder to fix a couple of batteries. Not worth it.
The cells may well be flat because they need charging and not because they are defective. Often the battery runs so low that the BCMS sees the low charge status as a defect and will not allow the charger to charge. Bypass the BCMS and charge the cells a small amount, then the battery can be charge with the Ryobi charger.
Spot welder will not cause it for sure a bms falt
Yeh, hard to say - but that current surly can't help - big spark means i wasn't doing something right.
heh, security screws are a joke, when you can just go by them... more of a marketing scheme
back in the day they were a pain in the ass, with eBay and the like they are so readily available they would have to use really obscure screw heads to slow us down.
I would have put enough of a charge on them manually until it charges on the charger again.
cells were dead :(
Ryobi batteries are pretty cheap I bet those replacement batteries almost cost the same amount as a new 1.5amp Ryobi battery
I got some knock of Ryobi batteries for review - they sucked, they lied gave me 30q cells in it, everyone else got generic cells
They call it "ree-obi"; I checked into it ;)
As in how it's pronounced or a fixed Ryobi battery?
HBPowerwall the company Ryobi pronounces their name "Ree- Oh-bee". The guys selling you the tools usually pronounce it as all us English speakers think the name is pronounced :P
I like the term for a fixed ryobi batter better hehe - Reeobied Ryobi Battery