De Bethune Watches: Buyer's Guide & History of De Bethune Watches: Collector's Companion
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it!
Today's presentation includes the following De Bethune watches:
De Bethune DB8 Chronograph White Gold
De Bethune DBS Moonphase White Gold
De Bethune DBS Moonphase White Gold
De Bethune DB22 Power Reserve Titanium
De Bethune DB22 Power Reserve Rose Gold
De Bethune Dream Watch 3 Tourbillon
De Bethune DB25 Power Reserve White Gold Automatic 40mm
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Rose Gold 42mm
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Titanium Govberg Limited Edition of Five Pieces: 42mm
De Bethune DB25 Power Reserve Rose Gold Automatic 44.6mm
De Bethune DB25 Moonphase White Gold 44.6mm
De Bethune DB25 Zodiaque Tourbillon Dead Beat Seconds
De Bethune DB28 Titainium
De Bethune DB28 Grand Sport ("Grand Sailor") Sports Watch
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels
De Bethune DB28 Kind of Gold
De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue Zirconium
De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones
De Bethune DB28 Tourbillon
De Bethune DB28 Digitale
De Bethune watches are the ultimate in independent watchmaking design, engineering, and imagination. Since 2002, master watchmaker Denis Flageollet has created nearly 30 unique in-house calibers for over 150 distinct models of De Bethune watch. With production ranging from a peak of only 450 watches annually to today's rate of 150 pieces per year, exclusivity is assured for watch collectors who seek absolute innovation and fully-realized artistic ambition.
Luxury watch collectors who favor innovation, attention to detail, imagination, and rarity will find all of those qualities in the timepieces of De Bethune. Compared to the roughy 900 watches produced annually by F.P. Journe, De Bethune's factory issues roughly 150 pieces per year, and even its peak output of 400-450 watches per year places the brand from L' Auberson among the most exclusive watchmakers per year. Custom dials, lugs, colors, materials, and even engraving are available for discerning collectors, and even preowned watches can be updated to suit the tastes of their new owners when the watches return to the factory for service.
De Bethune produces all of its dials, cases, and movements. This sets the haute horlogerie brand apart from the many independent watch brands that depend on outside suppliers to procure the most important parts of their products. De Bethune is an engineering house that takes great pride in its technical innovations. Over a dozen unique balance wheels, innovative shock protection, hi-beat tourbillon regulators, high complications, and breakthroughs in chronometry set this brand apart from rivals who stress branding efforts and aesthetics above all.
Traditional movement finish lies at the core of De Bethune's approach to design. While cases, dials, and lugs often feature spectacular and avant garde style, the in-house calibers of De Bethune employ traditional haut-de-gamme detailing. Cotes de Geneve become the richer and more luminous "Cotes De Bethune," and microlite hairline engraving adds complexity to surfaces. Abundant black polishing of steel and titanium surfaces yields spectacular effects on both dials and movements. Vast swathes of fine perlage and mirror-chamfered anglage do justice to Swiss watchmaking tradition. De Bethune's signature spherical moonphase, fired blue titanium, and hand-engraved dials speak to equal regard for tradition and innovation.
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One quick note: the DB26 perpetual calendar of 2008 was the first "floating lug" De Bethune. I mentioned the 2006 DB21 in the video, but only the DB21 "re-edition" of 2019 has floating lugs. The 2006 DB21 used a DB20-style cushion case.
Best,
Tim
Awesome, educational and comprehensive overview of De Bethune as only WatchBox could provide with your superlative inventory. While others in this thread point out the commercial motive behind this video, I think WatchBox is unique in providing collectors with this quality content of their own volition (even if there is some mild degree of commercial benefit to it, as with most “free” things in life). I’m an avid fan and admirer of the De Bethune brand - was just in Philadelphia and would’ve lent my DB20 for this video had I known it was in the works! Two things I’m not sure were covered but worth a mention: the two iterations of the DB27 Titan Hawk are cool “entry-level” pieces with in some regards the best of the 25 & 28. The newer DB27 may be the only DB with Center Seconds/basically seconds ahead all other than the deadbeat model showcased? The other point I’d make is that De Bethune’s post sales/customer service is personal and excellent as you’d expect from a small, quality-obsessed company- and while servicing most DB watches costs the same as say a Tudor, there is customization available at the time of service. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for the heads up
You called DB26 a Dream Watch 2 in the video at 15:53. It is not.
@@olegpetroff5412 The Dream Watch 2 looks like a DB26 from the front. Here's more detail on the series from De Bethune: www.debethune.ch/en/collections/dream-watches
Best,
Tim
Love you guys. We really are lucky to have the caliber of people we do in this community. Seriously I mean that. Very rare do I get a one word response or a flip lipped insult for a watch I liked,(or didn't for that matter) so yeah I feel lucky to find these.guys
Tim: these types of long-form, single-brand discussions are excellent. Thanks for the deep-dive into an amazing Independent that many collectors probably only know about at the surface-level. Well done (and thanks again).
I hope he does more..
They help satiate watch addiction.
I'll try to arrange more of these in the future. It's not clear whether full-brand showcases are a company priority, but I believe these are a useful collector's reference.
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews They're extremely useful in my opinion. They turn heads towards a specific brand (for a sustained moment) - whether it is just to learn more or to consider something new for the collection. Thanks again!
After seeing the DB25 Starry Varius and the DB28 in person, De Bethune also has won my heart. They just shined at a level that most watches can't reach.
They're exceptional in the best way. I try to promote the brand because many of the watches' best qualities are difficult to discern from internet photos.
Best,
Tim
Just wow. With these watches I don't even lust to own one. I'm just glad such beautiful objects exist in this world.
That's how I feel. Obviously, I can't afford watches like these, but I also can't afford anything I see in the Louvre; I still enjoy it.
Best,
Tim
The best video E V E R period ...I love this brand.Their watches are the best thing that man can vear on his wrist.And what a presentation omg.BRAVO Bravisimo!
Tim Mosso has Gotta be the BIGGEST Watch Nerd on youtube or anywhere for that matter. nobody geeks out over watches more than he does... and who can blame him with the inventory they have in store at the watch box is just exotic and to keep it and not show everyone would be a crime. how does he even know this much about watches? i guess this self proclaimed slave to Horology is true to some degree?
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius is my all time Grail. The craftsmanship and design are some of the best.
This is mind bogglingly good content! Thanks!
Thank you! I've wanted to shoot a De Bethune brand overview for years.
Best,
Tim
You're a master, Tim. Incredible collection and journey through the brief history of time for this inspirational watchmaker. Their galaxy-esque "starry" dials drew me into the brand.
OMG the very early pierces are absolutely beautiful with those vintage lugs and dials and the DB25s are timeless but it was the Dream Watch 3 and Dream Watch 5 that had me. Their hinged luges are ingenious.
Thanks Tim
I don't know why this format was a one off. I would love to hear and see one of these for a brand like Patek, even more Vacheron. The history of a brand through it's models and your narrative is an almost perfect combination
Thanks @Styx - Tim did one for Moser as well. He may do others in the future as well. Thanks for your feedback!
ruclips.net/video/o-V23vebspQ/видео.html
I've got a de Bethune DB25 perpetual calendar but I had no idea on the depth of the brand offerings. Thanks for the tutorial. It is obvious you have a passion for watches. When you have that passion for what you do, you never will "work" a day in your life. Great job
I watched this extraordinary video open-mouthed. The Dream Watch 5 excited me the most but all the watches have desire built right into them. On a more sombre note, the video was another reminder of how far I am from achieving anything like an enviable watch collection
This is amazing, these long-form videos are unparalleled by anyone else and really provide so much information even for viewers that aren't neccessarily interested (or able to) in picking one up. Its like a catalogue through the ages seeing the changes and formation of a true visual identity. The jump hour in particular is special. Really amazed by the effort and enthusiasm put into this one.
Thank you! I would love to shoot another. If it drives sales, great; if not, it's still a valuable reference for collectors interested in the brand.
Best,
Tim
This format is an only in watch reviews. And the depth of inventory has no rival. Thanks for sharing. What a journey that was
Well done Tim! Another incredible episode of content with history and horological eye candy galore! I will probably never own a De Bethune but I love watching the entire episode for knowledge and like many have said, just knowing they exist. Thanks again Tim, I look forward to more!
Very nice, hope you can make more videos of independent watch makers like gronefeld & Kari voutilainen
Hi Vincent, I would love to shoot this style of video for other independents. But inventory ultimately determines whether I have enough material to make a presentation. Graphics always can be added, but the show works best when a large number of physical watches are at the table with me.
Best,
Tim
Absolutely awesome video. Sometimes I'm sure reviewing the same ol Rolex gets boring and repetitive often. But you could tell Tim was in heaven with all these amazing time pieces from an extraordinary watch company. It really was seeing grail after grail. Who could choose their favorite? A video I loved because I hadn't seen a lot of these DBs before, and the ones I had seen still impress so much.
I have loved de Bethune for long time !!! This brand speaks engineering / design rather than pretentious advertisement!
Glad you did awareness
I hope you do more of these..You rock
Guaranteed - and thank you!
Best,
Tim
Wow Tim this must have been an absolute blast for you, what an incredible lineup. Truly a brand that can go toe-to-toe with anybody in the business and with style and tech that make the big brands seem like they're playing tee-ball. Kudos for finding a way to make this happen for us watch nerds around the world!
That oxidized meteorite dial is pure grail. Stunning
I hope I can bring one of those to RUclips in the near future.
Best,
Tim
I would stand up and applaud!
Great info my man! My favorite of the brand is the DB25 Perpetual Calendar Salmon Dial DB25QPAPS20.
No doubt, this man knows his stuff! Thanks for producing such a well produced video. Only note: ditch the 🕶 as they diminish your gravitas.
Thank you for taking the time to show us the line up!
Great job Tim. You nailed it and did another amazing job. Very well done!
The DB25 Moon Phase is the first watch I've ever truly wanted. If I could have it customized; I would have it in white gold case, instead of rose gold.
Really cool outro. I can see that you have a true passion for D.B.s and watches in general. Just wanted to say, thanks for introducing me to D.B. and many others. Iam the same way when it comes to watches.
Took me a while to warm up to DB but man are these fine timepieces ❤️
Iam falling in love. Tim, I blame you,lol. D.B. is really ballsy to make that i phone dream watch. And the other dream watches as well. Love it. Now i know why love D.B. so much.
Beautiful.
I'm lucky to work where I do.
Best,
Tim
The video i’ve been waiting for so long ! Thank you so much
Just beautiful. Enough said.
Great video. Love how you give credit to the people working behind the scene!
Oh what have you done??? Gonna sell my girlfriend... these are simply beautiful.. thank you 🙏🏽
Nádherné hodinky,snad jednou vyhraju v loterii... Zdravím z Czech rep.
Děkuji! Doufám, že se váš sen brzy splní! (I hope this is correct!)
Best,
Tim
Hi Tim, great show - hope we can have another one like this on Moser. Cheers
Wow ! Far out !
Very impressive and much more interesting, exclusive, genius than the Journe train...
Thanks for yet another entertaining and informative video. Bravo!
Iam gonna love this! Iam sure you will too. I can't imagine how much work you had to put in to make that happen. Bet you had to call in a few favors, lol. Good sh**.
Amazing show Tim I have to say I love this format of a show centered around one brand not sure how you follow after this or if you even intend to but I for one would love to see more
Very nice Tim! I love this brand!
Wow. Amazing. Thank you, Tim.
Speechless
Great video Tim as always. The video I've long been waiting for, as I'm looking to dip my toes into De Bethune ownership.
Came so close to picking one up earlier this year but you guys only had 2 in stock!
Great primer on De Bethune. How does the DB8 monopusher work?
It's co-axial monopusher that's one with the crown, and the minutes register reads 45 minutes rather than the DB1's 30-minutes.
Best,
Tim
Nice content! DB 28 blue & yellow: great watches for my future day and night dreaming... Tnx&cheers
Hi Tim great weekend reviews.
Thank you, Alvin! Did you have a favorite from the show?
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews oh boy! Yes off cos..... I started to drool the moment u show started. Lol
The DB28 Grand Sailor is my grail piece.
Excellent show! This brand is fire!
Wonderful. Thank you.
the best of the best. thanks tim
Thx for the review! Would you rather have De Bethune or MB&F? What are your preferred pieces?
I like Max and I enjoy his watches, but I'd take a DB28 Digitale, a DB27 Polo, the DB28 GS Grand Bleu, or any number of DB25s, Dream Watches, and custom pieces over MB&F products.
Best,
Tim
Awesome show!
Well this is a new treat to look forward to , will you be doing this weekly ? monthly ? Looks like a lot of work , weĺl done Daddy - O !
We'll see. I like this style of product-driven collector's guide. Agendas, priorities, and time need to line up, but I'm always ready to shoot another one.
Best,
Tim
I can finally put a face to the voice! Great videos!!
Awesome 👌!!!!
Well over one million dollars worth of watches on that table…that’s insane to think about.
Awesome very informative commentary 🙏🏾😌Be Safe;-).
10:22 how many Ferdinand Berthoud are produced every year?
They also made a GMT. You haven’t presented that one ❤️
De Bethune is still “affordable” wait for it to be like Unicorn 🔥 ❤️ 😭
5:30 DBS... S stands for simmetry?
25:25 🤯🤯🤯🤯
👏👏👏👏👏
Well I can now add a face to that distinctive voice.
If you've just seen me for the first time, you might be surprised by how many times my face has appeared on RUclips features. Most of it is on the other channel.
Best,
Tiim
Hate to break your balls, but a patent for something does not mean it was actually built or utilized in a movement. I could be about to hang myself with my own words because, admittedly I don't know lot about DB. But you have brands like Rolex taking patents for weird shit that was never made. But like I said, I was ball breaking mostly. No one can deny the power of the work they do. It's not,(for the most part) my style but the stuff that comes out of that workshop is like magic. Not many, if any can match that quality. Imagine if you could "commission" DB's workshop to make a Datograph? And I don't mean making a DB flyback chronograph, with equivalent features. I mean literally applying DB's Watchmakers to actually build a copy of the Dato. I for one think the result would be incredible.
23:41 24:07
Who owns De Bethune watches now ?
So you always talk about the shock protection but never what that look like in real life during activity? Omega advertises you can play golf wearing watches with METAS movements? Ball does the same. Practically does the DB system provide similar capability?
Eric Hanover I would not recommend golfing in any mechanical watch unless it was explicitly designed for such activity- and those watches are few and far between and not cheap. The Omega AT Ultra Light you referenced is 50k (I wouldn’t golf in a regular AT), a Richard Mille Rafa Nadal/Bubba is in excess of 100k- those are the only mechanical watches I’m aware of designed for such activity. I own a De Bethune and it doesn’t accompany me for any exercise... they’re also almost entirely on leather straps so just not designed for such activity. It’s shock protection with reason.
Alaistair Jones the truth is clapping can produce more g’s and damage to your watch than a golf swing. I golf with a metas Seamaster with no deviation in timing. My point is we always here about this legendary shock protection but it’s meaningless without knowing the protection it actually affords.
Eric Hanover companies aren’t going to document all you can and cannot do with a watch. This seems pedantic. De Bethune’s are expensive, cutting edge, haute horology watches and primarily dress watches. Ultimately it’s at the discretion of the owner, but they have a watch for Polo (per this video) that uses the same shock protection so id assume theyre pretty robust and/or De Bethune as a small company would service or handle issues within reasonable tolerances. Feel free to try one out and report back!
I'm sure the triple pare-chute models can withstand anything an Omega can. But the main reason for De Bethune's shock innovations is to improve accuracy, not golf or tennis. Less balance displacement means less deviation from the correct time. And several of De Bethune's balance designs have used advanced silicon wheels that would be too brittle to survive in a watch without three degrees of shock protection for the balance structure.
Best,
Tim
WatchBox Reviews thanks for the explanation. Love the compounded innovations they have implemented to make what they believe to be the best product they can produce.
Meanwhile Rolex prouds to announce new colors ;)
Peerless
Thank you, Henry! Did you have a favorite? Obviously, I'm a huge partisan of the De Bethune jump hour Digitale.
Best,
Tim
@@the1916companywatchreviews I had some unnatural thoughts about that zodiac number. But you didn't hear it from me...
Watch Porn at its finest!
WB better keep you happy for producing amazing content like this - the day you leave and start your own channel or company is the day I am unsubscribing😄
Why am i seeing online marketing for De Bethune by Watchbox more and more?
Try opening your eyes. They own 83% of the company's inventory. You are witnessing a commercial and nothing more.
todd - 83% seems oddly specific? But yes they’re a retailer and active in the secondary market for the brand, as with any other video they’re obviously marketing the watches they carry. That said, I don’t think DB gets undue or at least not undeserved attention- if anything there’s not enough out there online about what I believe is the best company in contemporary watchmaking
@@alaistairjones We don't own "83%" of the company, inventory, or any percentage of the new DB watches; that guy literally made this up. A private equity firm out of Luxembourg owns De Bethune. If we actually owned a piece of the company or held new inventory, we wouldn't be selling exclusively used DB watches.
Best,
Tim
@@adolf-8834 everyone watching already understands that this entire channel is a commercial and always has been. Watchbox sells watches, and that's not news. We don't "own" any brands, just used watches. De Bethune is owned by European PE investors: watchesbysjx.com/2017/10/ailing-de-bethune-gets-lifeline-with-new-owners.html
Best,
Tim
So rare, so exquisite, so exceptionally made...why so many are for sale?
How is their market holding up?
How do they feel about so many of their prices circulating on gray market?
How such exhibition influences sale of future pieces?
You get the point
Like a flying anvil, Yash.
All of 76 watches available on Chrono24 right now- there are previous models that are just entirely unavailable. If you’re buying new I don’t think you can go grey or see much to any of a discount (well prices are astronomical anyway). I think prices are holding up well, and have been trending upwards. I don’t get the point?
Our De Bethune pre-owned inventory is the world's largest, and we take great pride in that fact. Take a look at chrono24, and you'll see only a few dozen DB watches listed globally, but we have over 20! Take a look at De Bethune's own factory "pre-owned" inventory, and you'll find it's a fraction of ours. In comparison, we have over 100 Journes and almost as many Patek Philippes. Also, I've made promoting the brand a personal project, because I want to help guide it through the economic downturn; I don't care whether a person watches this video and buys a new De Bethune instead of our used examples.
Best,
Tim
0:46 "traditional crafts" 😂 is this the PC reddit-approved way to say craftsmanship?