*BEST PLACE* to find these ready-made kits - mdfm.co/ImpellerKits *HOLIDAY SNOWBLOWER SALES FROM ALL THESE GREAT RETAILERS* *AMAZON* - - mdfm.co/AmazonSnowBlowers *WALMART* - geni.us/SnowBlowers
Just did this today to my john deere 726 with 6.5 horse harbor freight motor. It was already a beast, but it's even better now! I was throwing the wind rows from the plow truck about 20-30 feet, never clogged, and the snow was several inches higher than the front of the machine.
Great video thanks...I did the impeller wiper retrofit to my Troy Built 28" 9.5hp Track Drive in March 2019 after using it more then 10 years of blowing snow. I bought all materials individually....1/4" neoprene sheet 60 durometer, 1/8" x 2" x 2" long 6061 aluminum flat bar and 1/4" stainless steel screws. It throws snow much better and further even slush. Troy Built's impeller clearance within the tunnel it spins in is excessive 5/8"+ giving my driveway gravel lots of space to fit into....surprisingly the new wipers give the gravel less places to jam and cycle thru much smoother....after realizing that fact I do not understand why OEM snow throwers do not come with wipers direct from the manufacturers. I like the idea another reviewer made about changing impeller belt pully to a smaller diameter to increase the rpms of the impeller.
For future reference, use a sharp drill bit. Use some motor oil on the bit while drilling, it will help to keep the heat down at the tip of the bit thus keeping the bit from losing temper and staying sharp longer. And lastly, slow the RPMs on the drill down, a lot. Cutting steel should be done at much lower speeds, again keeping the friction temperature down and saving the cutting edges of the bit.
We have similar snowblowers. I have a 1985 Bolens 824 with a 8hp Tecumseh with a 3-blade impeller. I just put the impeller kit in last week. It went in pretty easy, but it did take a while. I marked the holes on the impeller with a black marker and drilled a 1/4" hole, then widened them to 3/8". Installing them was the easy part. I greased the shute bearing edge and reassembled. Then, theNor-Easter that was coming.... missed my area. Bummer!
I would recommend doing an before and after video when you do mods like this. Its nice to be able to see the gains before you spend time and money on home improvement projects.
I did the same kit install on my 45 year old Ariens 824 and it made a huge difference, very pleased. I didn’t notice whether you pulled the boot off the spark plug as a precaution against accidental starting when turning impeller.
Jus got my kit... Mark ur holes, use center drill, use sharp bit (test it on ur shirt) & use oil. Bigger the bit the slower the speeds.
5 лет назад
My blower has cast impellers. I used mud flaps I bought from Fleet Farm $8 And cut them to size. There's enough left for 4 more sets of wipes. #8 Stainless self tapping screws and #8 stainless fender washers. Total $7. Drill pilot holes and attach. Simple job. I have 4 impeller blades. Started with two and I couldn't believe the results. Added the final two later. Where has this blower been for the last 15 years? A 5 hp two stage that would clog up within 6 inches of wet snow now chews through EVERYTHING and throws twice as far. Last winter it didn't clog ONCE. For the first time since I was a kid I'm looking forward to winter. This one time POS is now a BEAST. IF I ever buy a new snowblower the FIRST thing I'll do is install impeller wipes.
Thanks Donald. This is my first and I love it. Even though we've only gotten two small storms. (Like less than 3 inch) Ive still been breaking it out and doing mine and my neighbors drive way. Its so much fun. I can't wait for a blizzard to come.
Did not know these kits were available, and the price is crazy for whats in the package LOL! Stainless screws, nylon locking nuts and washers only cost a few bucks at any hardware store. A mudflap from a truck stop is fairly inexpensive, if you can't get an old one that was thrown out.
I had an old Compact 24 a long time ago, and I have to say the best mod I did was a smaller impeller drive pulley. I increased the RPMs by 50%(1,200 to 1,800). I was afraid that the drop in torque would cause more clogging, but the opposite was true and it threw much further. You had to be careful of rocks and stuff, though, you didn't want to turn the shoot wide open because it could throw a rock for a city block.
So you happen to know how far of a jump down you went with pulley size? I’ve been trying to do that and this mod because it truly transforms the machine
@@ryangaughan5535 IIRC I went from a 9" pulley on a 10" impeller(the compact impellers back then were tiny) to a 6" pulley. It was a big drop The impeller went from spinning at 1/3 engine speed to 1/2 engine speed. It looked kind of funny because the auger was visibly spinning much faster than a normal machine. In my case, I got a pulley from a local farm store, drilled some mount holes, and bolted it on. I got lucky because the factory pulley bolted onto the piece on the drive shaft. Not all blowers are like that, sometimes that is one piece which will make it a challenge. If it was too fast, or I didn't like it, I planned on trying different sized pulleys, but, in the end, I was happy with the results. I just had to be careful where I pointed the chute. Keep in mind, if you have a newer blower(I think '80's+) with the "safety brake", you will have to modify that to make it functional, if you want to keep it.
I have a 1985 Bolens 824 with a 8hp Tecumseh eng and heated grips (it;s VERY similar to your Ariens 824). I also have this impeller kit yet to be installed. I wasn't exactly sure how to take the chute off. I figured it was those 8 bolts around the gear, but thanks to your video, I now know what to do. THANKS! BTW, I just bought some AmorSkids for it that I ordered through Home Depot. You should consider them. They're worth every penny.
Great video, I cut an old mud flap I got from a truck shop, picked up some screws and brackets, drilling the holes is fun as you know, but works great. thanks.
The Impeller is a full-size car built by Chevrolet for model years 1958 to 1985, 1994 to 1996, and 2000 until 2020. Impeller was Chevrolet's popular flagship passenger car and was among the better selling American-made automobiles in the United States.
ive ran all kinds of different snowblowers new and old, and i gotta say atleast in my experience the ones that needs it the most are the old ariens 8hp models, even with newer more powerful engines they just seem to clog very easily.
Did it to mine also and it's a great idea. BUT, the first thing you should of said before starting the project is disconnect the spark plug!!! if that baby started by turning the impeller you'd be missing a hand. Just like a lawnmower turning the blade could start it if the gas was on. Just a good safety step. Doesn't hurt to be cautious.
Sorry in advance I completely understand you are a newby to the snow blower world You as a preper fronters man will appreciate another point of view There is a man who has done the very same thing I have used his methods to great results His method required self tapping screws and an old tire for the rubber his name 65 Ford notto be bad mouthing at all he has great stuff for the guys who do it them selfs Again I apologise but there are easier ways to be a step wiser with what is around your home Recycle stuff intended for the junk heap it's less a mess to haul away Have a great day my friend
I'm not sure what these kits cost but to maximize bang for buck I'd slot the holes on the rubber to adjust as it wears. Similar design to cement mixer squegeezs . Slot the hole and adjust as it wears. Just a thought
I did it. The blades just need to be positioned so that I can reach the impeller. I used the rubber paddles (cut to size), metal mending plates similar to yours and nuts/bolts. Tested it out and worked great except for extra noise. I tried trimming the paddles with a snip tool but don't want to take off too much and undo the work I did. Your video helped me so much. I was also told by a friend to use some silicone spray before using the snowblower.
I'm having a tough time getting my big fat hands in there and placing the paddles I made in the right place. I wonder if epoxy would hold them. I'm racing against mother nature in Denver.
I think I can if I epoxy them 1st. I have to turn the impeller to a certain angle to seat them proper. Then turn it again to get mr fat hand down the chute. I'm sitting here making a new set. The 1st one came out all crooked after I glued it in. Trial and error. It did take some serious prying to get it out.
My snow blower throws great, except wet snow. I live on a busy street which gets heavily salted so the end of the driveway is generally sloppy wet and the blower struggles. Will this help the blower throw wet sloppy snow?
For the few times my machines have been clogged over the years, that is to much like work, and I have been using snow blowers for a good 25 years. The manufacturers should be doing this when they make them.
There is a reason they don't. And the new snowblowers often have even larger gaps. This is so that when people put the blower away wet, like many do, the snow in there doesn't freeze the impeller in place which causes the operator to burn the belt off the next time they use it. Also, the tighter the tolerances, the further it throws rocks and other hard heavy objects.
l337pwnage I'm sure you have valid points there, but using plastic or vinyl should defeat that. I have thrown a lot of rocks over the years, and when I knew it, it didn't matter how far it would have went, it already went to far. But I have no interest in doing something like this, my machine throws it far enough and when it didn't I just bought a bigger one. I also keep it in a nice warm garage so I don't have to worry about it freezing up.
+Marty I have a detached garage, so freezing is more likely in my case. It still didn't happen much, tho. Also, I'm sure another major reason is cost and the liability if those parts would loosen up and fly out. IMO, the primary advantage of this mod is light snow. If you aren't blowing enough snow to pack that gap tight, you lose throwing distance as the snow slips around the edge. The secondary is the slush where this mod will not let slush build up and slow down the impeller. But while I have thought about this mod quite a bit, I've also decided that the gains aren't worth the negatives or the work to install it. To add my anecdotal experience, my new machine has a lot of power & an large gap (IIRC something like 3/4") and I've tried plugging it up, but haven't been able to yet. The transmission will start to give way before the blower part stops blowing. My old machine had a tight gap, about 1/8" (that's the one that froze a couple times), but it only had a 5HP motor and a 10" impeller. If you hit heavy slush, it would plug up and would keep plugging until you got to some cleaner snow. As I put in another post, my best mod there was to put a smaller pulley on the impeller for a 30% RPM increase. Man, even the auger looked like it was flying, lol. It didn't increase my throughput because I still only had 5HP, but it really gave me distance and it didn't really plug up anymore. Not nearly as easy, anyway.
l337pwnage I certainly can see where it would happen, after all a lot of people don't even have a garage. Of course I think if I was in that position I would make sure I cleaned it out good. Also this is something a little hot water wouldn't cure.
+Marty Funny you say that, I did have a neighbor who had to keep his snow throw outside. All he could do was throw a cover over it. It was a _very_ old one too, looked to be from before 1980 when all the dead man switches and stuff like that became the standard. I don't super clean mine, what I would do was brush it off, scrape off the big chunks in the bucket and chute, run it a few seconds until nothing came out, then put it away. Invariably, though, there was always some left somewhere which could melt into the bottom and refreeze. I actually don't recall where the drain hole was or the size, but I bet there was one and it may have plugged. My new blower has a *huge* drain hole, about 1/4" X 1/2". It only caught me once. I went many years with no problems and it froze one year and I damaged the belt, I don't remember if I replaced it or not after that, I know I used it that day on the same belt. Being cold, I don't remember the belt squealing, it just wasn't blowing snow. Took some chipping to break it loose. I didn't think of the hot water trick. After that I made sure to clean it better and if there was some big temperature swing or I saw a lot of ice under the blower in the garage, I would grab the impeller and move it by hand before I started it. There was a couple times I had to chip it out, but that's it. The new design would be really hard to freeze up with it's large gap and no impeller back plate. Also, I don't think I ever had a chute freeze, but the new style chute doesn't even attach to the impeller output. It just hangs over it on a special mount. Man....I talk way too much about snowblowers.....
Nice video. I have an almost identical snowblower and it doesn't handle wet snow well. The dry stuff it will through forever. Is this a kit you purchased ? I could see making your own , but if there's a kit available that would be great .
I just picked up a Ariens Delux 28 SHO snow thrower. Will this mod work on it? I ask as snow here is gone, but could not pass up on the deal I got on it. Engine is 306cc, 15 ft/lbs. The gap is 1/4" there abouts, but under 3/8". Any input would be nice.
Hello Dony! One very important feature of this larger size snowblower you did not mention is the size of the auger flighting. Your Can Tire demo model does have good auger flighting, however there are at least two different well known blower makes on the market with what I would call micky mouse flighting which is totally inadequate when you have to handle 6 or more inches of snow. Most people only look at the price tag which in this case is not a good idea.
when drilling a steel plate with a same metal drill like steel drill its always good to go very slow with some oil to"CUT" better into... By going fast heats up the drill bit and dulls it and you can drill till the next Full Moon and still no hole..... The school years ago where we had metal shop in High School explained it then.... all smiles we will help you now youngin Mellenials.... where I know they have no metal shop.... I think its called "Put neck down and use fingers to look it up on smart phone, then type Friends , then check mail , oHHHHH back to tapping a hole ,,, ooooops "HI MOM"... oh back todrill not drilling,,, to DUde check this video out.... to oh yea... drill slow..use oil when drilling,, job complete..(The person writing this post... My Friggin Nerves, STELLA) Too funny
My high school has all the hands on classes but they are electives, I took no lunch and had wood shop, metal shop, electricity/electronics classes, and CAD which I feel was a fair trade.
Drill bit technology has changed since the 60's old man, you can lean hard on cobalt bits and they'll just eat, constantly pulling out chips keeping themselves cool. -Millennial
I did this with my older Honda HS80 no problem. Haven't had chance to try it yet. But my newer 928 is out of the question. Impeller must be tempered. All I did was chew up self tapping screws and drill bits.
@@ModernDayTech All is not lost. I can be pretty persistent. I purchased good quality high speed drill bits and used 10/24 screws with lock nuts. Using a slow drill speed and lots of cutting fluid, I got through.
If the steel is more than 5mm in thickness, then an angle grinder would be best. Neither a scissor or a grinder cost that much in the US tho. You don't need the biggest, baddest grinder either, you just need one that will do the job for you, and not get broken.
That metal is really too thick for tin snips. Using a hacksaw you would avoid bending the metal pieces and get a much straighter cut. It would probably also be a better tool for cutting the rubber pieces down to size.
Right at the very beginning you play some "entry" music. Could you help and tell me what the name of this song or album or the name of the composer is. I want to hear the entire song. Thanks in advance
Just a warning for next time. If you have a good clean or new spark plug that could still send the spark from the wire to the plug. Just tape the wire to the top facing AWAY from the spark plug. Stuff happens mydude. Rather be safe than hurtin!! Haha's. Right?
Did my toro about 4 years ago very similar install. To me the closest thing to injecting steroids into a snowblower! Lol. Will blow the wettest of snow, damn near blow water !!! Lmao. Never clogs and blows twice as far! Impressive!!!
@@josecenteno3273 1/4 inch, 3\8? I can check when home later to be sure. I got material from tractor supply. I have done several others since i have done mine. Friends, family etc...
@@josecenteno3273 that is 3/16 thick by 4 inches wide! It comes in a roll at tractor supply. The description has something to do with a hay Baylor! Lol. But its reinforced and perfect for this application! Better than any mudflap or piece of tire sidewall!!! I drilled impeller and used small bolts with Teflon locking nuts. Used mine commercially for five years now without an issue
Why not purchase a higher quality unit that does not have the large "gap' you're referring to? My 30 inch 13 HP DR Power unit has 1/8" gap between the impeller and the housing.
Thanks for watching. Here's a few reasons. 1. The snow blower was free 2. How are you supposed to know which one has a small gap and which one has a big gap. Unless you have a floor model that you can take apart you have clue because its not advertised. 3. Even 1/8 gap can cause build up. I now have no gap. It's rubber on metal. 4. This was cool easy project and it didn't cost a lot.
Not seeing the turbo or super charger that all you content creators say in the video title. Impeller modification on the other hand is another thing entirely, and that thing spins how fast again? The imbalance it creates will shorten lifetime of auger gearbox (which is connected to impeller) and impeller support bearing.
Let's see a before and after example of you blowing the snow...or at least an example now and commentary on the video of how it worked compared to before.
A drill bit might come in handy. Ok, that's been mentioned. Here it is again. . You're not supposed to burn through a piece of metal with a drill bit. Supposed to cut it's way through.
Man what are you using a wood bit to drill them holes ? Lol. If you had real steel drilling bits it would have been easy ! Thanks for sharing your video..
Guy Hermanson Your right self taps work fine. One thing you do wanna do is put Iron strap down where the self taps go thru. It gives the rubber more to hold it and acts as a barrier like a washer so the rubber will not start wearing past the head of the self tap screw.
Rich Speers Yes, your just using it as support so the rubber stays in place and doesn't rip out over the screw heads. Anything along those lines will work.
I think you NEED a sharper drill bit??? that should not take that much pressure and time, try a nice sharp bit. It makes a huge difference with a good sharp drill bit... you should be drilling throw that thin cheap steal in seconds, meaning less than 5 sec.
It is a full-size car built by Chevrolet for model years 1958 to 1985, 1994 to 1996, and 2000 until 2020. It was Chevrolet's popular flagship passenger car and was among the better selling American-made automobiles in the United States
Don't buy the gold drill bits they are junk get the ones that are black they are a better quality and stay sharper longer. And actually only would have had to do two blades 180 deg off to keep balance.
Black oxide bits dull from heavier metals. I ruined two bits trying to drill through a hard drive because I didn't know any better. For bits that'll go through anything, cobalt bits are the way to go. Drilled through that drive like it was butter.
It's like watching a monkey trying to f*** a football. Mark your holes, remove your material, center punch your marks and drill using lubricant. OR just use some self tapping metal screws with washers and call it a day. Made 3x's more work out of this than necessary.
Great way to ruin the impeller Auger bearing. That gap is NOT ENOUGH to make that much difference. If your bearing IS going bad, the set up you put on will DRAG on HAVE TO housing. I wouldnt WASTE a DIME on this set up. That clearance is nessary for wet heavy snow and prevents the impeller from freezing to the housing. I GUARANTEE THAT SETUP WILL RUIN YOUR BEARING. Scrape that loose paint, sand and seal that rust and repaint the housing and you will find the snow will fly from that blower. That rust creates resistance and can clog up the wet snow. Afterwards spray silicone in the housing, on the auger and impeller.
RC Hobbyist Extreme If your bearing is going bad you should replace it! Since you have never done this you haven’t a clue what will happen! That gap certainly doesn’t help with slush!
*BEST PLACE* to find these ready-made kits - mdfm.co/ImpellerKits
*HOLIDAY SNOWBLOWER SALES FROM ALL THESE GREAT RETAILERS*
*AMAZON* - - mdfm.co/AmazonSnowBlowers
*WALMART* - geni.us/SnowBlowers
Just did this today to my john deere 726 with 6.5 horse harbor freight motor. It was already a beast, but it's even better now! I was throwing the wind rows from the plow truck about 20-30 feet, never clogged, and the snow was several inches higher than the front of the machine.
Great video thanks...I did the impeller wiper retrofit to my Troy Built 28" 9.5hp Track Drive in March 2019 after using it more then 10 years of blowing snow. I bought all materials individually....1/4" neoprene sheet 60 durometer, 1/8" x 2" x 2" long 6061 aluminum flat bar and 1/4" stainless steel screws. It throws snow much better and further even slush. Troy Built's impeller clearance within the tunnel it spins in is excessive 5/8"+ giving my driveway gravel lots of space to fit into....surprisingly the new wipers give the gravel less places to jam and cycle thru much smoother....after realizing that fact I do not understand why OEM snow throwers do not come with wipers direct from the manufacturers. I like the idea another reviewer made about changing impeller belt pully to a smaller diameter to increase the rpms of the impeller.
For future reference, use a sharp drill bit. Use some motor oil on the bit while drilling, it will help to keep the heat down at the tip of the bit thus keeping the bit from losing temper and staying sharp longer. And lastly, slow the RPMs on the drill down, a lot. Cutting steel should be done at much lower speeds, again keeping the friction temperature down and saving the cutting edges of the bit.
We have similar snowblowers. I have a 1985 Bolens 824 with a 8hp Tecumseh with a 3-blade impeller. I just put the impeller kit in last week. It went in pretty easy, but it did take a while. I marked the holes on the impeller with a black marker and drilled a 1/4" hole, then widened them to 3/8". Installing them was the easy part. I greased the shute bearing edge and reassembled. Then, theNor-Easter that was coming.... missed my area. Bummer!
I was ready for it too and I got was a little dusting. :(
I would recommend doing an before and after video when you do mods like this. Its nice to be able to see the gains before you spend time and money on home improvement projects.
A fine video for a person tackling this for the first time with limited tools. Good job.
Thank you. It works great and I'm so happy I did it. Thanks for watching.
I did the same kit install on my 45 year old Ariens 824 and it made a huge difference, very pleased. I didn’t notice whether you pulled the boot off the spark plug as a precaution against accidental starting when turning impeller.
It surely makes a difference. Did you buy a kit or make your own? I did unplug - 5:07
Bought the kit but would not recommend now, way too expensive. Thanks for posting.
Jus got my kit... Mark ur holes, use center drill, use sharp bit (test it on ur shirt) & use oil. Bigger the bit the slower the speeds.
My blower has cast impellers. I used mud flaps I bought from Fleet Farm $8 And cut them to size. There's enough left for 4 more sets of wipes. #8 Stainless self tapping screws and #8 stainless fender washers. Total $7. Drill pilot holes and attach. Simple job. I have 4 impeller blades. Started with two and I couldn't believe the results. Added the final two later. Where has this blower been for the last 15 years? A 5 hp two stage that would clog up within 6 inches of wet snow now chews through EVERYTHING and throws twice as far. Last winter it didn't clog ONCE. For the first time since I was a kid I'm looking forward to winter. This one time POS is now a BEAST. IF I ever buy a new snowblower the FIRST thing I'll do is install impeller wipes.
I've never had a snow blower but you did a good job demonstrating.
Thanks Donald. This is my first and I love it. Even though we've only gotten two small storms. (Like less than 3 inch) Ive still been breaking it out and doing mine and my neighbors drive way. Its so much fun. I can't wait for a blizzard to come.
Well done and easy for the layman! I have watched many similar videos, this is one of the best and complete..
Thank you. I appreciate it.
I love your video. Thanks for taking your time to show step by step for demonstration.
Did not know these kits were available, and the price is crazy for whats in the package LOL! Stainless screws, nylon locking nuts and washers only cost a few bucks at any hardware store. A mudflap from a truck stop is fairly inexpensive, if you can't get an old one that was thrown out.
True, just like everything else in life you pay for. You can probably do it yourself for whole lot cheaper.
ModernDayFamilyMa'
I had an old Compact 24 a long time ago, and I have to say the best mod I did was a smaller impeller drive pulley. I increased the RPMs by 50%(1,200 to 1,800). I was afraid that the drop in torque would cause more clogging, but the opposite was true and it threw much further. You had to be careful of rocks and stuff, though, you didn't want to turn the shoot wide open because it could throw a rock for a city block.
So you happen to know how far of a jump down you went with pulley size? I’ve been trying to do that and this mod because it truly transforms the machine
@@ryangaughan5535 IIRC I went from a 9" pulley on a 10" impeller(the compact impellers back then were tiny) to a 6" pulley. It was a big drop
The impeller went from spinning at 1/3 engine speed to 1/2 engine speed.
It looked kind of funny because the auger was visibly spinning much faster than a normal machine.
In my case, I got a pulley from a local farm store, drilled some mount holes, and bolted it on. I got lucky because the factory pulley bolted onto the piece on the drive shaft. Not all blowers are like that, sometimes that is one piece which will make it a challenge.
If it was too fast, or I didn't like it, I planned on trying different sized pulleys, but, in the end, I was happy with the results. I just had to be careful where I pointed the chute.
Keep in mind, if you have a newer blower(I think '80's+) with the "safety brake", you will have to modify that to make it functional, if you want to keep it.
I have a 1985 Bolens 824 with a 8hp Tecumseh eng and heated grips (it;s VERY similar to your Ariens 824). I also have this impeller kit yet to be installed. I wasn't exactly sure how to take the chute off. I figured it was those 8 bolts around the gear, but thanks to your video, I now know what to do. THANKS! BTW, I just bought some AmorSkids for it that I ordered through Home Depot. You should consider them. They're worth every penny.
Great video, I cut an old mud flap I got from a truck shop, picked up some screws and brackets, drilling the holes is fun as you know, but works great. thanks.
Thanks Jeff. Old Mud flaps are awesome.
Very happy with the mod, it worked great, thanks.
The Impeller is a full-size car built by Chevrolet for model years 1958 to 1985, 1994 to 1996, and 2000 until 2020. Impeller was Chevrolet's popular flagship passenger car and was among the better selling American-made automobiles in the United States.
ive ran all kinds of different snowblowers new and old, and i gotta say atleast in my experience the ones that needs it the most are the old ariens 8hp models, even with newer more powerful engines they just seem to clog very easily.
Did it to mine also and it's a great idea. BUT, the first thing you should of said before starting the project is disconnect the spark plug!!! if that baby started by turning the impeller you'd be missing a hand. Just like a lawnmower turning the blade could start it if the gas was on. Just a good safety step. Doesn't hurt to be cautious.
Thanks. It makes a world of a difference, doesn't it? BTW: check out 5:06
Sorry in advance
I completely understand you are a newby to the snow blower world
You as a preper fronters man will appreciate another point of view
There is a man who has done the very same thing I have used his methods to great results
His method required self tapping screws and an old tire for the rubber his name 65 Ford notto be bad mouthing at all he has great stuff for the guys who do it them selfs
Again I apologise but there are easier ways to be a step wiser with what is around your home
Recycle stuff intended for the junk heap it's less a mess to haul away
Have a great day my friend
I'm not sure what these kits cost but to maximize bang for buck I'd slot the holes on the rubber to adjust as it wears. Similar design to cement mixer squegeezs . Slot the hole and adjust as it wears. Just a thought
Great video and camera work showing how this job is done. I plan on doing the same with my 1 stage craftsman snow blower. Hope it works. Thanks!
1 stage? How?
I did it. The blades just need to be positioned so that I can reach the impeller. I used the rubber paddles (cut to size), metal mending plates similar to yours and nuts/bolts. Tested it out and worked great except for extra noise. I tried trimming the paddles with a snip tool but don't want to take off too much and undo the work I did. Your video helped me so much. I was also told by a friend to use some silicone spray before using the snowblower.
On my 1 stage the impeller pads/paddles are attached to the blades. I was able to access them from the front without going down the chute.
Seeing I work with Conveyor Belt, I shall install this.
TOOLTIME TOOLGUY
"Impela" .... LMAO
I'm having a tough time getting my big fat hands in there and placing the paddles I made in the right place. I wonder if epoxy would hold them. I'm racing against mother nature in Denver.
+Gitar Zan I wouldn’t think so by itself. Can you add some self tapping screws?
I think I can if I epoxy them 1st. I have to turn the impeller to a certain angle to seat them proper. Then turn it again to get mr fat hand down the chute. I'm sitting here making a new set. The 1st one came out all crooked after I glued it in. Trial and error. It did take some serious prying to get it out.
My snow blower throws great, except wet snow. I live on a busy street which gets heavily salted so the end of the driveway is generally sloppy wet and the blower struggles. Will this help the blower throw wet sloppy snow?
The ride onmowerstarting wire systems
Absolutely! I did similar install and throws the wettest snow and never clogs! Also throws twice as far!!! Impressive
For the few times my machines have been clogged over the years, that is to much like work, and I have been using snow blowers for a good 25 years. The manufacturers should be doing this when they make them.
There is a reason they don't. And the new snowblowers often have even larger gaps. This is so that when people put the blower away wet, like many do, the snow in there doesn't freeze the impeller in place which causes the operator to burn the belt off the next time they use it.
Also, the tighter the tolerances, the further it throws rocks and other hard heavy objects.
l337pwnage I'm sure you have valid points there, but using plastic or vinyl should defeat that. I have thrown a lot of rocks over the years, and when I knew it, it didn't matter how far it would have went, it already went to far. But I have no interest in doing something like this, my machine throws it far enough and when it didn't I just bought a bigger one. I also keep it in a nice warm garage so I don't have to worry about it freezing up.
+Marty I have a detached garage, so freezing is more likely in my case. It still didn't happen much, tho.
Also, I'm sure another major reason is cost and the liability if those parts would loosen up and fly out.
IMO, the primary advantage of this mod is light snow. If you aren't blowing enough snow to pack that gap tight, you lose throwing distance as the snow slips around the edge.
The secondary is the slush where this mod will not let slush build up and slow down the impeller.
But while I have thought about this mod quite a bit, I've also decided that the gains aren't worth the negatives or the work to install it.
To add my anecdotal experience, my new machine has a lot of power & an large gap (IIRC something like 3/4") and I've tried plugging it up, but haven't been able to yet. The transmission will start to give way before the blower part stops blowing.
My old machine had a tight gap, about 1/8" (that's the one that froze a couple times), but it only had a 5HP motor and a 10" impeller. If you hit heavy slush, it would plug up and would keep plugging until you got to some cleaner snow. As I put in another post, my best mod there was to put a smaller pulley on the impeller for a 30% RPM increase. Man, even the auger looked like it was flying, lol. It didn't increase my throughput because I still only had 5HP, but it really gave me distance and it didn't really plug up anymore. Not nearly as easy, anyway.
l337pwnage I certainly can see where it would happen, after all a lot of people don't even have a garage. Of course I think if I was in that position I would make sure I cleaned it out good. Also this is something a little hot water wouldn't cure.
+Marty Funny you say that, I did have a neighbor who had to keep his snow throw outside. All he could do was throw a cover over it. It was a _very_ old one too, looked to be from before 1980 when all the dead man switches and stuff like that became the standard.
I don't super clean mine, what I would do was brush it off, scrape off the big chunks in the bucket and chute, run it a few seconds until nothing came out, then put it away. Invariably, though, there was always some left somewhere which could melt into the bottom and refreeze. I actually don't recall where the drain hole was or the size, but I bet there was one and it may have plugged. My new blower has a *huge* drain hole, about 1/4" X 1/2".
It only caught me once. I went many years with no problems and it froze one year and I damaged the belt, I don't remember if I replaced it or not after that, I know I used it that day on the same belt. Being cold, I don't remember the belt squealing, it just wasn't blowing snow. Took some chipping to break it loose. I didn't think of the hot water trick.
After that I made sure to clean it better and if there was some big temperature swing or I saw a lot of ice under the blower in the garage, I would grab the impeller and move it by hand before I started it. There was a couple times I had to chip it out, but that's it.
The new design would be really hard to freeze up with it's large gap and no impeller back plate.
Also, I don't think I ever had a chute freeze, but the new style chute doesn't even attach to the impeller output. It just hangs over it on a special mount.
Man....I talk way too much about snowblowers.....
Beau travail
Nice video. I have an almost identical snowblower and it doesn't handle wet snow well. The dry stuff it will through forever. Is this a kit you purchased ? I could see making your own , but if there's a kit available that would be great .
+Gene Myers Thanks for your support. Here are the kits - 3 Blade Impeller Kit - --bit.ly/3BLADEKIT-- 4 Blade Impeller Kit- bit.ly/4BladeKit 5 Blade Impeller Kit- bit.ly/5BladeKit
Hey, I have the same snowblower!
I love mine. It's been good to me for many years.
I just picked up a Ariens Delux 28 SHO snow thrower. Will this mod work on it? I ask as snow here is gone, but could not pass up on the deal I got on it. Engine is 306cc, 15 ft/lbs. The gap is 1/4" there abouts, but under 3/8". Any input would be nice.
I don't see why not, if there is a gap on the impeller, then you should be able to close that gap.
Hello Dony!
One very important feature of this larger size snowblower you did not mention is the size of the auger flighting. Your Can Tire demo model does have good auger flighting, however there are at least two different well known blower makes on the market with what I would call micky mouse flighting which is totally inadequate when you have to handle 6 or more inches of snow. Most people only look at the price tag which in this case is not a good idea.
+awalt26439 How do you use a rivet tool in the chute hole?
+hdtripper1 Sorry.I meant this for john waters.
I live in Vermont. Your video was amazing. ty very much sir.
btw... we get alot of snow here. hehe
when drilling a steel plate with a same metal drill like steel drill its always good to go very slow with some oil to"CUT" better into... By going fast heats up the drill bit and dulls it and you can drill till the next Full Moon and still no hole..... The school years ago where we had metal shop in High School explained it then.... all smiles we will help you now youngin Mellenials.... where I know they have no metal shop.... I think its called "Put neck down and use fingers to look it up on smart phone, then type Friends , then check mail , oHHHHH back to tapping a hole ,,, ooooops "HI MOM"... oh back todrill not drilling,,, to DUde check this video out.... to oh yea... drill slow..use oil when drilling,, job complete..(The person writing this post... My Friggin Nerves, STELLA) Too funny
My high school has all the hands on classes but they are electives, I took no lunch and had wood shop, metal shop, electricity/electronics classes, and CAD which I feel was a fair trade.
Drill bit technology has changed since the 60's old man, you can lean hard on cobalt bits and they'll just eat, constantly pulling out chips keeping themselves cool. -Millennial
I did this with my older Honda HS80 no problem. Haven't had chance to try it yet. But my newer 928 is out of the question. Impeller must be tempered. All I did was chew up self tapping screws and drill bits.
oh no, thats a bummer!
@@ModernDayTech All is not lost. I can be pretty persistent. I purchased good quality high speed drill bits and used 10/24 screws with lock nuts. Using a slow drill speed and lots of cutting fluid, I got through.
Next time you cut stainless steel, use a spring loaded metal scissor. They're specially designed for cutting thru stainless.
True. I busted my hand doing that. An angle grinder probably would have been best but I gotta work with what I have. I'm poor. :)
If the steel is more than 5mm in thickness, then an angle grinder would be best. Neither a scissor or a grinder cost that much in the US tho. You don't need the biggest, baddest grinder either, you just need one that will do the job for you, and not get broken.
Whizzer would work best.
Great video,very informative. Thanks
Thanks Rosalio! It has worked wonders for year now. I love it! Are you buying a kit to do or are you going to make your own?
That metal is really too thick for tin snips. Using a hacksaw you would avoid bending the metal pieces and get a much straighter cut. It would probably also be a better tool for cutting the rubber pieces down to size.
Right at the very beginning you play some "entry" music. Could you help and tell me what the name of this song or album or the name of the composer is. I want to hear the entire song. Thanks in advance
Seize the Day by Peter Godfrey
Thank you very much
Nice work! Thanks!
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Just a warning for next time. If you have a good clean or new spark plug that could still send the spark from the wire to the plug. Just tape the wire to the top facing AWAY from the spark plug. Stuff happens mydude. Rather be safe than hurtin!! Haha's. Right?
I presume you place rubber on the leading side of impeller rotation.
Did my toro about 4 years ago very similar install. To me the closest thing to injecting steroids into a snowblower! Lol. Will blow the wettest of snow, damn near blow water !!! Lmao. Never clogs and blows twice as far! Impressive!!!
How thick is the rubber piece ?
@@josecenteno3273 1/4 inch, 3\8? I can check when home later to be sure. I got material from tractor supply. I have done several others since i have done mine. Friends, family etc...
@@paulcondie2520 Thanks
@@josecenteno3273 that is 3/16 thick by 4 inches wide! It comes in a roll at tractor supply. The description has something to do with a hay Baylor! Lol. But its reinforced and perfect for this application! Better than any mudflap or piece of tire sidewall!!! I drilled impeller and used small bolts with Teflon locking nuts. Used mine commercially for five years now without an issue
@@paulcondie2520 Thank you buddy..
We have a 1972 Gilsonite that still works
I mean gilson
do this and spray pb blaster garage door lube on your auger and chute and you will never clog.
working shlub don't think self tappers would have made it through 1/8th plate, if you're going to drill why not fasten it right...
working shlub, what is pb lube?
I would use hard core self tapping screws with washers no way they come out lol.
6 one way, half a dozen another.
"no way they come out" ... right ... they won't come out when you need them out to adjust or replace the wipers.
Will these kits work on a 3 stage cub cadet?
I don't see why not. You might have a little bit more trouble getting access to the impeller though.
Ill give her a try thanks
start with a 3/16 bit. save you all those quarter in
its a lot easier to disable the blower, then you can put it in a vise to drill it, then add the pads, resemble the blower and adjust the pads
Have you done that? That is not an easy job.
Why not purchase a higher quality unit that does not have the large "gap' you're referring to? My 30 inch 13 HP DR Power unit has 1/8" gap between the impeller and the housing.
Thanks for watching. Here's a few reasons. 1. The snow blower was free 2. How are you supposed to know which one has a small gap and which one has a big gap. Unless you have a floor model that you can take apart you have clue because its not advertised. 3. Even 1/8 gap can cause build up. I now have no gap. It's rubber on metal. 4. This was cool easy project and it didn't cost a lot.
Not seeing the turbo or super charger that all you content creators say in the video title.
Impeller modification on the other hand is another thing entirely, and that thing spins how fast again? The imbalance it creates will shorten lifetime of auger gearbox (which is connected to impeller) and impeller support bearing.
Cool video though im planning on adding the kit to mine
You need to update your tools. A drill sharpener would come in handy. Also a grinder instead of hosing up a fair set of shears. Nice video though.
Gotta work with what I have. I'm a poor man. Got the job done though. :) thanks for watcihng.
ya, even with a flat file you can resharpen them old dull drill bits!!
Yea you don’t need no fancy sharpener, an angle grinder will work fine. Watching this drill makes me cringe
Let's see a before and after example of you blowing the snow...or at least an example now and commentary on the video of how it worked compared to before.
There are other vids on YT that do show that. The difference is major.
A drill bit might come in handy. Ok, that's been mentioned. Here it is again. . You're not supposed to burn through a piece of metal with a drill bit. Supposed to cut it's way through.
Man what are you using a wood bit to drill them holes ? Lol. If you had real steel drilling bits it would have been easy ! Thanks for sharing your video..
A pneumatic drill at a slow speed would’ve been easier for you
Thanks, I gotta work with what I had.
Wouldn’t self tapping screws and a few washers would be much easier
6 one way, half a dozen another.
Use self tapping Screws
A million ways to do the same thing
A lot of guys use self tapping sheet metal screws
why didn't you use self tapping screws to do that job on the impeller? would have been 10 time easier
Won't hold. The rubber is getting pummeled. They will loosen fast.
Your wrong. Self-tapping screws work fine!
Guy Hermanson Your right self taps work fine. One thing you do wanna do is put Iron strap down where the self taps go thru. It gives the rubber more to hold it and acts as a barrier like a washer so the rubber will not start wearing past the head of the self tap screw.
Fearless, Would galvanized pipe strap work instead of Iron strap?
Rich Speers Yes, your just using it as support so the rubber stays in place and doesn't rip out over the screw heads. Anything along those lines will work.
Be best if you shoveled snow.
Be best if your mommy told you to keep your mouth shut if you have nothing nice to say.
@@ModernDayTech :'( rip. Wish I got to meet
I think you NEED a sharper drill bit??? that should not take that much pressure and time, try a nice sharp bit. It makes a huge difference with a good sharp drill bit... you should be drilling throw that thin cheap steal in seconds, meaning less than 5 sec.
A hacksaw would work better on the metal parts.
all I used on mine was self tape screws.
Great !!
What’s an Impella?
It is a full-size car built by Chevrolet for model years 1958 to 1985, 1994 to 1996, and 2000 until 2020. It was Chevrolet's popular flagship passenger car and was among the better selling American-made automobiles in the United States
Thats early 90s not 70s
Godoffish Its mid to late 80's.
hmm I'm curious why the companies even leave that gap in the first place?
To save money. All of them need a small gap by design but the good ones will put in an impeller kit for you.
invest in a dremel tool so when you need to cut metal again you don't struggle so hard...
+Scott Rose Hacksaw is a better TOOL Choice in a VISE !!!
+Gary T I agree with you on the choice of tools. I was cringing while watching him cut that with shears,waiting on him to totaly pinch his fingers!!
Handsome dude, looked like me.lol
12:30 oops wrong editing? =D
Hammer drills are your friend.
I haven't tried it but I deem it useless for this reason: ice build up around the edge of the chute will create the same effect.
A not not a 1978 .
Don't buy the gold drill bits they are junk get the ones that are black they are a better quality and stay sharper longer. And actually only would have had to do two blades 180 deg off to keep balance.
Black oxide bits dull from heavier metals. I ruined two bits trying to drill through a hard drive because I didn't know any better.
For bits that'll go through anything, cobalt bits are the way to go. Drilled through that drive like it was butter.
Use those girly muscles! That's thin metal to. I'm a welder lol .
That and holly crap I've never seen someone take so long to drill through such a thin piece of metal oh well lol.🤷♂️👍✌
im going cut out 4 blocks of rubber from a tire and do this
+gear head Cool go for it. If that doesn't work, amazon has the rubber now. bit.ly/SnowBlowerPaddles
don't cut them, god, you just threw away 25% of its power
weld on and be better like yuo put som rubber. :)
It's like watching a monkey trying to f*** a football. Mark your holes, remove your material, center punch your marks and drill using lubricant. OR just use some self tapping metal screws with washers and call it a day. Made 3x's more work out of this than necessary.
Rubber is keeping the impeller from turning. I guess I have to leave a little more of a gap.
DrMario Pepper Nope no gap here. Bump it up right against the side wall. The rubber will bend or shape perfectly. It’s been working great for years.
Cut it too short.
It works perfectly. Not an issue in the 3 years that I've had the kit.
I think it would work "well".
How is this a "turbo charge"?
Great way to ruin the impeller Auger bearing. That gap is NOT ENOUGH to make that much difference. If your bearing IS going bad, the set up you put on will DRAG on HAVE TO housing. I wouldnt WASTE a DIME on this set up. That clearance is nessary for wet heavy snow and prevents the impeller from freezing to the housing. I GUARANTEE THAT SETUP WILL RUIN YOUR BEARING. Scrape that loose paint, sand and seal that rust and repaint the housing and you will find the snow will fly from that blower. That rust creates resistance and can clog up the wet snow. Afterwards spray silicone in the housing, on the auger and impeller.
RC Hobbyist Extreme If your bearing is going bad you should replace it! Since you have never done this you haven’t a clue what will happen! That gap certainly doesn’t help with slush!
tin snips ha
lol, you gotta do whatca gotta do. It was that or Dremel. This was easier. Thanks for watching.
+ModernDayFamilyMan yes nice vid
In I'm in in in
Just do it ! :)
Impeller not impella
I wonder how Google knew that's the exact same model of snow blower I found on the curb for free