Van Diemen RF 85, Weber DGAV , rim issues and more work
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2023
- In this video we prepare the RF-85 for its next event in Zolder, however we run into issues with the rims and the Weber DGAV carburettor is acting up. At the end we get it all sorted and then we find out the HANS does not fit properly
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Brilliant !! ex Formula Ford Racer from New Zealand now realise how little we knew back in the 80's !!
Steve, keep in mind that carb idle adjustments are still important on a race car. Every time you corner, the carb goes back to idle settings. If these are out of wack, the engine will have a dose of bad fuel or uneven mixture, and can splutter and miss when accelerating out of a turn.
If you spend a bit of time getting the secondary idle balanced with the primary idle, that can give you better response out of corners. Use an infra red heat gun on the exhausts at idle to get an idea of balance. Cylinders 1 and 4, run principally on one barrel, 2 and 3 the other.
Thanks Grahame, yes indeed the idle circuitry does play a role, what I wanted to say was that we seldom have the engine running on idle ( RPM wise)... On this carb the idle mixture screws are removed on the prime and the second barrel , However those are not setting the AFR for Idle, just the amount of mixture that gets in. The idle jets are determining the mixture (AFR). Those are sized as they should and checked with an AFR h=gauge ( wideband) on the exhaust. I like your approach with the Cylinders 1 and 4 and 2 and 3....I will do that kind of check...
safety is preparedness...that is the best message..great video..
Indeed, thnak you
Great clean and reassembly of the carburetor, I have a fiat 124 (1969) Sport Coupe' with the same style only progressive I was pleased to see that I had followed what you've done to a T. good channel
Thank you and have fun with the 124
Great video. I learned a few things. Great editing too. Your videos are like a tv show.
Thank you, I try to make the best out of them
Wisteria looks lovely Steve!
Thanks
Hi Steve, excellent video. You have reminded me to check my brake fluid and probably flush and renew. Have a great time racing and good luck. Stay safe. Thanks again for your great content. 👍🇬🇧
Thanks mate.. you to
Thanks for showing us your car. It is fun to learn about it.
My pleasure
What an interesting series, and i am hooked. Re the brakes, i felt that the 5.1 synthetic Brake fluid was far superior to any other 4-5 Dot, as after i used 5.1, i never had brake fade again, even using very HARD on the track, i also only changed it a max of twice a year, compared to almost weekly/monthly, also for the jets, i always left the carb and jets in cellulose thinners for a day or so, to remove any fuel gumming, i used a 28/36DCD carb
Thank you for the comments and tips
Enjoyable video thanks mr Steve 👍
Another excellent video Steve. Keep them coming!
Thanks Mike
Hi from Australia Steve, another excellent video. I’m learning much from each video you make 👍. Rob Major Rf 83
Hey Steve, love your work 👍
Thanks
Nice job! Good luck on Sunday
Thank you
Hope Sunday is a great day for you!
TXS
Great work as always and thank you for continuing to share your knowledge. I wish you good luck in the races and look forward to more videos soon. Stay safe
Hi Steve, very nice video.
Thanks
Wow, just learned Zolder used to be a formula 1 circuit. Looks like very nice country side on Google maps!
Indeed, and its a great track..Its also where Ville-Neuve was killed in the chicane just after the hill, sadly enough
Carb drips use a 10 micron fuel filter . The pleated paper filters can be 30 to 70 microns. Sediment in the fuel holds the needle and seat part way open.
Do you have a oxygen sensor bung on the exhaust collector to allow you to use a wide band air fuel ratio display while you bring the rpms up to around 1500 to 1700 while looking down the venturis to ensure you are not fast enough to start pulling fuel from the boosters. This checks the idle jet sizing. The idle jet limits the max flow being pulled thru the idle transition slot. You can change the idle fuel curve by changing the idle air jet.
Doing the same at the point just before the secondaries start to flow allows you to know if you have the proper primary main jets. Again if the primary circuit is lean or rich at lower than just before the highest rpm before the secondaries start to open primary air bleeds and emulsion tubes effect fuel curve. Once the primary jetting is done. The secondary jetting changes can be done. This is better under load
Hi Wayne, great write-up... as for the dripping that was caused by a lose secondary Venturi and float level that was to high... But a good tip for the filter, that makes 100% sense. Yes , I do have wide band AFR gauge that I can connect to a bung. Indeed the idle jets are the onces that take care of the idle, and even more importend the progression, Great write-up Wayne...
Further, Steve you would think that scrutineers would examine the wheels and black flag the car in previous races when with the previous owner?? Greetings from Sydney Australia. Further, did Jacky Ickxx ever drive at Zolder?? Greatest driver ever..
Hi Marc, Oh yes Jacky X did drive many times in Zolder , even recent during a reunion event... Indeed , you would think so.. but those small cracks can easily be overlooked
Have fun with all the CRAC members next sunday Steve.
We will, txs
Another thing to check when getting a HANS to use in older cars - the shoulder straps can be too far apart and the mounts need to be moved closer together to line up with the grooves on the HANS. Looked like that may be the case with your car, though it wasn't easy to see exactly where the mounts were.
Indeed, that is also an issue. in mine that is not the case they are at 250mm apart... Thanks for the comments
@@D3Sshooter That's good. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I learn a lot from your videos.
Awesome video as always, Steve
One question, I've seen the screws all around the rim, can you replace just the middle where the crack is?
Thanks , yes indeed the center piece bolds onto the outer and inner rim halfs... I can't get new inner pieces , as far as I know. Although i found someone who can cut new ones out of aluminium ... I might get that done soon
I've seen some DG Webers with a v shaped tension "spring" holding the booster tight to the body. That was decades ago, tho. Design changes?
Yes indeed , that was done so at the time. This one is a modified version a mix between a DGAS and DGAV...
Do you send used race oil to one of the several companies that analyze oil for signs of potential serious engine wear. Another informative video.
Hi Rick, that is what professional racers do indeed, it is expensive and as I am not a pro racer but a historical racer, I just check the engine every so often.. and if need be rebuild it
@@D3Sshooter Do you know the price range for that service? Maybe running a magnet through the oil or heating the oil and running it through a coffee filter might provide some information.
Do you measure the taper across the rotor face. As tapered rotors with new pads result in spongy pedal and reduced braking ability. Having to slightly taper the new pad surface so the pad backing plates are parallel if you change pads on used rotors.
Indeed Wayne, I do ... Not in this video but I did in another , both taper and run-out
Do these cars use check valves and return lines from the caliper bleeder screw ports. So the fluid is exchanged fractionally each time the pedal is pushed.
They don't, as that would be a modification from the standard regulations... Else that is a good method
I have read that the power valve has been removed from some Formula Ford race prepped Weber DGVs.
Has your carburetor been done that way?
Yes the power valve is also removed... The power valve in general adds that extra fuel when the vacuum on the membraan is removed, at that time the spring pushed the valve at bottom open allowing more fuel . The effect on a FF is that this is not needed as we are already running fairly rich and in most cases wide open or near wide open an that drops the vacuum and in some case it would open that valve - to much fuel
Steve, do you use the same Hans device for the MGB and your formula cars?
Hi , No I do not....the one for the RF was a new one and was a mistake because of the belt dimensions..
You know that the versions for formula cars are different from salooncars? The angle is 20° for salooncars and 30° for formula.
@@coalendsracing4502 yep
Is that a 32/36 Weber or what we have in the states have, a 38mm "outlaw" Weber....it opens both 38mm barrels at the same time. I have a 32/36 and a 38mm and was wondering if the 32/36 could be modified to be synchro barrels?...I find the 38mm on a modified Toyota 22R 4cyl works the best but mpg suffers...
How do you jet? AFR meter? Your timing looks perfect by the backstrap electrode on the plugs, white to the bottom and no father.....
WOW from my Webers your floats look very HIGH.....Your over flowing problems???
Yep it is a 32/36... both barrel open up at the same time,,, modified... here is my jetting: Idle prime 45, Idle second 50. Emulsion tubes ( F50 both) Prime fuel jet 160 Prime air correction 165, secondary fuel jet 130 air correction 135... copper float level shut at 41mm. My AFR on idle 1200 14,3 at progression ( 2000 RPM) 12,5 see my last video "last minute fixes " where I do measure the AFR
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for the jetting! Id like to see how you modified the 32/36. I have one and an old 38mm I can take linkage from. What are your engine specs, CC, cam, ect.
My Toyota is a daily driver 4x4 pu, 22R stroked to 2.5L, forged pistons, .50 cam, 1mm bigger valves, double valve springs....I have a Innovation AFR on the dash....Weber 38mm(brass floats), 3 psi inlet fuel pressure,(Ive found that to be very important for performance, Webers dont like more and flood), 50 Idle, 142 Main, 185 Air, F50 tubes....14 base timing, 34 degrees all in at 2500 w/ 10 degrees vacuum advance, 18 PSI vacuum at idle. Getting 155HP at 5600, 170 LBS torque at 3900....17.5 city 19 hwy mpg....BUT for power I give up longevity, forged pistons tear up cyl walls when cold, brass valve guides with double springs last about 60,000 miles.
Your living life to the fullest, enjoy your vids, love the green metal castrol oil can...we have plastic here..I run 20/50 too, 3000mile changes....Way back in the 70's I helped a neighbor with his SCCA Formula Ford(cosworth engine) and his Formula B March(twin cam Lotus), was an exciting time, places like the cork screw at Laguna Sega....
AND as a life long carpenter, your dang good there too...
Hah, my dad works for Lockheed, the same manufacturer of those brakes.
That is cool
Why not put a drain plug in the oil tank?
why dont you just use the good DOT4 on both? yes it cost a "little more" stil it is the safest way. you can use the one you oppende last time for the front on the rear line. stil you can top up both with the same bottle.
i used to run a 36/36 DEGAV on my volvo. now i'm gonna run a 38/38 DEGAS. we run the 32/36 on the "Formula basic" cars that run ford motor's.
for the hans you also get a "hans harness" they r narrow on top.
Thanks for the comments, both are good brake fluid..., just the boiling point is differend and the rear barkes don;t get that warm at all,,, Note that one bottle (500ml) is 40 + euro... So a flush for both rear and front is two bottles.. So far the rear never had an issue.. The dot4 react performance is also an uplifted brake fluid.... so economics
Hi Steve, of course oil should be changed but I think you change it soon. I changed oil at intervals of 20 000km.
So do you want to tell me that a race car will make at least 15 000 km in 2 hrs
MBS Moshitoa south Africa
Moshitoa, a race engine runs high RPM's and a lot is demanded from the engine. Its not the same as a normal road car... As the race engine is stressed all the time , it develops wear and that wear are resulting in small particles in the oil, which will be filtered to some extend in the oil filter.. However not all of them and those will result in more wear . That is why we change our oil after every race , and in my case that is 2 Hours... The distance is irrelevant. 2 Hours of racing is about 200Km. I know it sounds strange , but that is what it is..
In American aviation we call the venturi repair you made "staking."
Steve still looking for Old Rusty.
Same.