Bass Boat Sitting 10 Years, Lets See If The Engine is Good?
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- this is the 2nd part on this cheap 1990 bass tracker bass boat that a subscriber sold to me, its been sitting for 10 years in a parking lot, and l am to bring it back to life,
Hey mustie do yourself a favor replace that water pump,been sitting to long mate it will give out when you least expect it. Stay safe from western Australia
Thought he said he had a new one.
1. Change the impeller before you take the boat out. If it's been 10 years the rubber is likely brittle and will shatter at high rpm. This is important since you don't have a temp gauge. Easy to seize your engine if it goes and you're not paying attention.
2. The float in the oil is for a low oil alarm and possibly an engine shut off, neither of which is working. Fill that top tank up with oil and it should maintain level.
3. If it were me, I'd check the gear oil in the lower unit before my first adventure.
Awesome video as always, thank you.
Is the rubber a damper between the core and the impeller ?
@@rverro8478 No, the impeller itself is rubber and prone to failure. Generally want to change them every year or 2 regardless of usage. You can get kits to fully rebuild the impeller and housing for less than $60 on these engines.
Checking gear oil for water, and therefore probably a ton of fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft would be a very early step for me. Gah! Fishing line!!
@@drteknical6571 ditto on fishing line wrapped, I had that happen 4 trips in a row! talk about cranky-mad, 4 seals and oil changes in 2 weeks!
thanks for the tips and insight. I am going this morning to look at a 82 18 1/2' Bayliner with less than 5 hours usage that has been sitting in a barn,
Always replace the water pump impeller on a new boat purchase. Good insurance. Save the old one as you emergency spare if it is still in decent shape.
hah just buy 2 from the git go, chuck the old one, have a good spare, save a trip to the boat store and another pump rebuild.
They aren’t even that much maybe 30 bucks each just get 2
Absolutely change the impeller, and keep choke pushed in when starting, it only works when held in. Also install that new fuel line with the bulb, they also become brittle and corrode on the inside. The transducer for the fish finder will produce a snap if you touch them when they are on, if no snap, no image or bottom return.
I thought the connection had some green on it, even if not a cleaning would be a good idea, d c is such a pain, one of the worst discoveries mankind has made. I don't know what would replace it but it still sucks.
its not a choke its a primer! squirts fuel in every time you bump the key. which would explain the hard starting... 4-5 primes and its ready to fire
@@ct1762 must be a youngster and only seen newer junk "warm weather" 4-stroke engines. majority of all 2strokes (and others) for many years had/have a solenoid that physically shuts a choke blade or multiple, some only choked a single or two carb's, they figure once some cylinders fired the others would light off ok.
long ago mercury(Kiekhaefer) actually had a stand alone throttle lever at the controls, and choke button separate from the key. you could easily free rev and high idle the engine in neutral for warm up period.
Kiekhaefer played a big parts in WWII, building many other things, which also killed his outboard industry. ;)
@@throttlebottle5906 i am an outboard mechanic... 12 years. yes, i'm aware older motors used a choke solenoid and flappers, but this is a newer one with the primer. im not sure what you meant about being a youngster and only working on 4 strokes as I won't touch smaller 4 strokes, even if i could get paid !
@@ct1762 then you should know that was about the end/transition year when they had either physical choke solenoid and butterflies or the silly "start enrichment system", aka trouble making engine flooder.
it could technically have either, I don't recall him pulling the choke plate cover( sound baffle), to see the carb faces or a close-up enough to tell. the clunking sounded loud enough via cam to be actual choke blades banging.
that year has accelerator pump carbs, cycling the cold start throttle lever or the main control should pump fuel in.
Replace the water pump impeller that tell tale should be a lot better than it is,
Even though it improved, it is probably becoming hard and worn, and yes replace all the fuel lines including the bulbs d filter
I agree, water pump is acting kinda wonky.
100% replace the impeller. Simple piece of mind.
Always replace it. Especially after sitting for years, or every 2 years in Salt water.
Keep in mind it was sucking air.
@@codycall6513 I agree but I think having the water level just an inch or so over the intake does not help - once fully submerged it will work better. Its not too big a job to replace those and you dont want it breaking up and clogging the cooling passages either. He didnt say how much he got the boat for but here in California thats an expensive motor alone!!!
You can get a really good thick plastic battery box from West Marine online then use liquid Nails to hold I'd down on the bottom and side.
That's how we did it in the Keys. No hardware or holes thru the box to worry about rusting out.
I would definitely change that impeller on that motor they should be changed every year or two
because cavitation!
yeah, I JUST said the same thing....even just sitting for 10 years it's probably half gone hence why it took so long for water to come out the pee hole.....
@@muskokamike127 if only they didn't make em out of crappy rubber. Rubber is great but not when exposed to salt water, veggie oil, air, . . . shiiiiieet
@@muskokamike127 Some of those old Mercury motors have thermostats, that wont let it pump water until its warmed up.
@@dimitar4y That's because you never know if something like small rocks or sand is getting in there with the water. They're cheap anyway and simple to change.
I was like a lost fart yesterday afternoon, no Sunday afternoon wrenching with Mustie1, didn't know what to do with myself! Great videos, i dont think i have missed one. Happy Independence Day for yesterday from South Africa
Replace the impeller if it’s four or more years old, regardless of whether it ran or not. They get brittle and will break at high RPMs. You don’t want to get stuck on the water - cheap insurance to do it now.
what he said! Change it, change it now!
Yep. Been there, got stuck, paddled a mile, replaced impeller.
The raw water impeller was a spare part that I always carried. But then I had a larger, more complex boat and carried a large number of parts and tools.
Yes! Probably wouldn't hurt to replace those old fuel lines too.
Reason it took so long to pee a lot of water is that they have a thermostat and won't open fully until warm.
Also change the impellor as they break up at hi RPM when they get old and brittle.
Awesome motor as well and if you keep up the services to it they are bulletproof.
yes. yes yes.. do a water pump change out. you have the parts, it's easy to do, and its' better to do it and KNOW it's good than rely on what's there to have it break in the middle of the lake.
I agree on changing the impeller I usually do the 2-year rule in my mind every 2 years that I own a boat the impeller needs to be changed sometimes it's always easier to do a little bit of work then to do a whole lot of work when you screwed up everything plus every 2 years seems to be a good amount of time if you use the boat a lot to wear out the gear oil and also getting a leak down there in the casing contaminating the gear oil 2 years seems to be about enough time to be able to trust gaskets that are exposed to the water a lot never had any issues with the two years
When the cooling system is fully primed, water should come out of the telltale instantly, regardless of the engine temperature.
@@realsonnysullivan yep! thats why its there -to tell you that the engine full of water and that the impeller is working. to maintain temp, there are thermostats and to allow max flow at high rpm there is a poppet valve on the starboard lower side. a stuck poppet will sound the overheat warning at high rpm. all this water flowing cools the exhaust prior to exiting the lower unit.
Definitely change the water impeller. I found that Super Lube silicone grease works best. I ran an entire season then pulled the pump and it was still coated in the grease. It's available everywhere even harbor freight carries it.
On a very Sunny Sunday Morning what could be better than Mustie.
Cheers from Louth.
ROI
🇮🇪🇪🇺
Mustie1, I think you messing with the oil tank and hoses made it finally pump to the upper reservoir.
Gotta love those Merc’s! They were great 60 years ago when I was a kid working on a lake dock pumping gas etc.. if they weren’t Merc’s they were Johnson or Evinrude’s. Great memories. Oh and the girls in their bathing suits was why I worked there ALLLL summer..... haha.
Boy those were the days. I did the same when I was a youngster. Great memories!
I would definitely double check that wiring "fix" on the engine that the rats chewed. And Watch Wes Work would flip out at those quick snap wiring connectors near the battery. Put in your drain plug, fill the back with water and make 100% sure the bilge works.
You are an insperation, love watching you from across the pond, many thankYou are an insperation, love watching you from across the pond, many thanks
s
The choke is on a momentary switch. You need to hold it in when you're starting it when it's cold.
Agreed.........
Hold it down. We found out the hard way!
does not have a choke it has a primer every you push in the key it gets a shot of gas
@@erniebateman9665 are you sure about that? I've never seen an outboard motor with a primer and Ive dealt with quite a few of them. Everyone I've ever seen had a choke
I just found that out this year, 4 years in, prev owner never told me that it was a momentary switch my instructions from him just said push it when starting, always wondered why she was hard to start when cold, hold her down when cranking and she fires up beautifully.
I bought a 92 deep V fishing boat that sat for 4 years in a field. I spent the last 2 weeks working on it after work and weekends. I pulled the tank & cleaned the carbs. I finally got it running last night!!!
The impeller shaft is off-center in the impeller housing so the blades of the impeller are compressed on one side and flex open on the other side. At idle, it is difficult to detect whether you will have an overheating problem at higher RPM. If the blades are set and don't flex open, that will show up as an overheat under load and not at idle. Long story short, change the impeller as suggested by many others.
Very good! Explanation
I know from 40 years of experince those impeller blades are worn, feeble and clearly have taken a set. The last owner was NOT a moron. I listened to him. He clearly stated the cooling indicator flow was weak. It is supposed to look like a race horse pissing even at idle!!!
Impellers are easy to change on marine diesels. And a real PITA to change on outboards. But you gotta do it!!
I get the feeling he isn't listening.
I have never trusted automatic oilers. They have a mind of their own and will leave you stranded. Change the impeller and keep a spare handy! Might want to drain and fill the lower unit lube.
oh yeah, change the lower unit lube...forgot about that! GOOD POINT! You never know when it was last done.
I replace the impeller and gear oil every two years, I have almost the same exact motor, mine is a 1985 150 Mariner, and I did away with the oil injection the day I bought it from a friend that let it set 8-10 years. Still runs great.
@@robertallen938 good plan, oil injection loves to go anti-oil-self-destruction and you'll never know it until it's way too late with seized engine.
**note: you'll likely have to re-jet the carburetors when going from oil injection to mix.
I had an early 90s Johnson with a VRO oil pump. I went thru 3 power heads while it was under warranty. Once the warranty expired, I disconnected that SOB and mixed the fuel myself.
Yes, that system seems way too vulnerable to failure.
Was waiting all week for this
Same
the. god of. engine's??mustie1??sunday,,?,,yes.
I have almost the same motor, but mine's a 1993 135. Same basic block and top end as a 150. No problems in 18 years (change water pump impellers every 3-4 yrs.) Great motor.
You want to use 3M 4200 or 5200 quick cure for thru hull fittings. Silicone will leak after a few runs. BTW, nice boat.
Dear Wayne R.
👍👌👏 You are absolutely right, Sir. Nonetheless: I highly recommend sikaflex brand. That's at least the stuff that most professional boat builders use.
Best regards, luck and health.
Absolutely! And 2 hose clamps on thru-hull fittings.
If the manufacturer had used 5200, he’d have had to drill it out. 5200 is forever. In fact 5200 is what boat manufacturers use to glue decks onto hulls of mega-yachts.
Second on the 5200. That's some good shit.
What,why not flexseal? Nah just kidding. Most of what 3m makes are good products. My dad worked for 3m in their electronics division 28 years. Great company overall, and we always loved when dad brought home products from the 3m company store.
I'd replace the impeller anyway. They're considered a wear item and while yours seems to be working fine, it may not be in a condition to handle a day on the lake at high RPM.
I'd seriously consider replacing all 3 of those drain fittings in the stern. Edit: Having finished watching, that water pump impeller looks like its dodgy. You don't want that failing on you when you're a mile or more out!
I was thinking that too. He said that white was the only one he could find after looking at several stores. He should have just ordered a couple online and changed them before he put that tank back in.
@@JonBecker81 and get metal noes instead of plastic!
I agree! He may really want to consider replacing the other two as well. Metal (prob. aluminum) would also be the way to go. Brittle plastic carrying the fate of the S.S. Minnow! Sheesh! At least the tank isn't a real bear to get out. (When it is empty! :-))
Yes, and use polyurethane sealant (Sikafley marine) below the waterline instead of RTV silicone.
On boats that do not have a zinc grounding system you should only use the nylon or plastic fittings. Generally on larger vessels, you would use the non metallic thru hull fittings above the water line because they are discharge lines and bronze fittings for suck lines. All fitting, both above and below the water line should always be embedded in 3M 5200. There are other brands, but the 3M 5200 has always been the best for me.
thats why I love your channel ... you FIX stuff instead of just running off to the store to get a replacement at the slightest sign of a problem and only buy when you absolutely have to ... thank you
You must be considering a serious relationship with this boat, I mean, new battery. You don't see that too often.
That's like an engagement ring to a boat...just never stop listening to it!!!
I was impressed too!
if you've ever tried to pull-start one of them, you'll always install a new battery every year. keeping jumper cables to connect your trolling battery as emergency start is wise also.
if a nasty storm whips up while your out on the water with dead engine, best be prepared to sink and swim for days. LOL, but not really joking
the oil pump from the bottom tank is only to maintain the top tank oil level not fill it. you need to fill it first then it will keep it full
I had the exact same engine on a former boat. The first water pump you had in your hand was the correct one. I suggest you check the lower unit oil before use. There are two large slotted screws near those water intake holes. The top screw is the vent/full level and the bottom is the fill. If the gear oil looks milky it has water in it.
My grandfather rigged his outboard to use car plugs...ran well, but if you went to reverse or slow ahead, it would stall every time. You had to go to about half forward then to the lower or reverse power. I miss that boat, but whoever bought it had an adventure on their hands with all the improvisation that motor experienced.
You should definitely change out the water pump impeller. Old impellers, especially if left sitting like this one, will fail with unfortunate results. Great video as usual.
As has been said a bunch of times, change that water pump impeller. If possible, get one of the newer versions made of silicon rubber. Not sure if they are made for that application. And always keep a second one on hand, just like a new prop, prop nut and prop wrench.
Worked in a boat shop, off and on, for about a decade. Anything that had been sitting for more than a year or two got a new impeller. Simple, and relatively inexpensive insurance.
I love the smell of 2 stroke exhaust in the morning 🌄
Nothing like it
Hey Mustie, in order to fill the engine mounted oil tank you must run the engine with the oil cap loose. That tank is not vented, so if air cannot get out, oil cannot get in. The boat oil tank has to be air tight or it cannot build pressure and will not transfer oil to the engine tank. Wait until the engine mounted tank is overflowing before tightning the cap. There should be no air in that tank.
I agree change the impeller for water pump you've got one and the old saying " Better Safe Than SORRY ".
549,000 subscribers, I remember I joined on at 44,000, what a run. Good for you,sir.
part 2, great was waiting for the result. keep on going Mustie. greetings from Dutch Swedish.
Well, I don't know anything about outboard motors, but I want to fit in, so.... change the water pump impeller.
Yeah I'm in the same boat lol, having considered many suggestions, my advice to Mustie is . . . change the water impellor!
We missed your video this weekend, most of your competitors take a piece of junk and see if they can get it to turn over and to run but then leave it a piece of junk. You on the other hand, find a piece of junk get it running and then turn into something that is valuable to you and your watchers, there are only a few that do that including you and that makes more sense than watching a guy that doesn't even check the oil before starting a engine that has been sitting for a long time.
You're doing a nice job on that bassboat. That green that came out of the gas tank was 2-stroke oil. Don't trust the oil injection pump with out removing it and checking the"PLASTIC" gears. mix 2-stroke in the fuel until you know the oil injection is working. Outside jets on the carbs are air jets. Try using carb cleaner sprayed in through the carb drain holes. I do this when possible on any outboard that has been sitting. Even ones that have been winterised. I've been doing outboard repair since the '70s. This is the best RUclips channel.
Change that water pump impeller and check the thermostat. Barrel method for cooling water is not recomended because the water pump should be "BELOW" the water level not just the water inlet. Buy a set of "muffs" to attach a hose for a water source. I didn't hear any alarms when you turned the key on. There is an alarm for low oil and one for overheat. They should buzz when the key is on but the motor is not running. Looks like a late '80s engine. I would guess '87 or '88. It should have the alarms. You got lucky with those carburetors! Every one I see is full of water and debris. Gives the Ultrasound a workout. If you have an infrared heat sensor move it all over the heads and block looking for hotspots. Mice and spiders leave some awful clogs in weird places. I just did a 3 cyl Suzuki that squirted water like a firehose but overheated because of a huge spider nest under the exhaust plate. Also found the remains of an impeller blade in the waterjacket. Had the powerhead, cylinder head, exhaust side and bottom covers off to collect all the debris. Wait "til the labor is added up! Less than $100 in gaskets and seals. About 8 hours in labor. Damn spiders!
Can’t beat the old 2-stroke outboards for reliable and durable power. One 4-stroke was enough for me. Bypassing the oil injection is a superb repair.
I have installed a couple of electric oil injection kits on older Mercs, works quite well.
@@michaelreynolds1904 I tried to install one for my 1997 Mercury 150 but couldn't find one. Seems a company used to make an electronic retrofit for it, but I think they went out of business. I had to disconnect the oem injector due to the plastic gear failure inside the engine that turned the gear for the injector pump. I really wanted an injector, but I settled for just mixing for now.
Although my outboard is a Johnson, my VRO ( oil injection system ) was removed by a previous owner, guy I bought it from said the VRO pump died twice before.
@@cutum didn't realize theybwent out of business. Too bad, it was a nice kit.
@@genejudgejr6931 VRO i have found out stands for.. Very Rarely Oiled 😁
The tell-tale won't stream until the thermostats open. Also, the low-level oil alarm should be sounding when you remove the oil tank cap. That float on the cap is the low oil sender.
As suggested before I would definitely replace the impeller. Also I would add some 2-cycle oil to the gas tank just to be on the safe side, until you watch the the oil level in the tank drop. So that you're absolutely sure that the engine has lubrication. Also while you're down there at the lower unit, I would check the gear oil in the lower unit just to make sure it's not milky. last but not least I would yank the prop just to make sure it hasn't seized itself to the output shaft. And to correct it if it did.
Nice little series. Suggestion: If one thru hull fitting is brittle and bust, all will be brittle and about to bust. You should have replaced all 3 with the tank out. It´s just a matter of time and luck before the next goes. Since this is about the biggest single point of failure on this boat, it really needs to be done. So get 3 new black fittings, and when installing do not use silicone. It only lasts for a season or two before drying out. You should use a bedding compound like Sikaflex, for a job like this.
I remember when I was a mechanic at a dealership in the early 90s the mechanic next to me bought this very boat and motor. It was awesome then and it’s awesome now! This is an amazing survivor!!
Any outboard I touch, if it’s. Even sitting for ten years, it’s getting a new impeller. No questions asked. They get brittle and don’t work right even if they do push some water thru like this on is doing. They aren’t expensive and aren’t hard to change. And it gives you a good look at the lower unit instead of just assuming everything is cool there too. Impellers get old and brittle and even if it seems to be working at first, it’s probably not pumping as much water as it should because it’s not dealing against the housing and it’ll probably seem ok long enough to get you comfortable with it then it’ll break a couple fins off and finally quit working altogether and if you’re like half the guys out there that buy an old boat like that, ya probably aren’t all that used to boats and outboards and forget to pay attention to the stream and end up not noticing when the damn thing does eat itself up and you end up running the motor with no water running thru it, you overheat it and then you wonder why it started running like shit and smoking like hell after last weekend... because you overheated the hell out if it and have a blown head gasket now...or a cracked head... That’s a really damn long way of saying jus5 change the fukn impeller. If you don’t know how to, you need to learn anyway.
I recommend converting it to hydraulic steering, a kit dosent cost much and it makes the steering much nicer.
Hey brother next time you’re trying to push a rubber line over a barb fitting put some liquid dish soap on the fitting it will greatly ease the installation and eventually dry up making it near impossible to come flying off under pressure I am a millwright and I actually have a small bottle of dish soap in my toolbox and because of it my knuckles don’t bleed nearly as much as they used to and when they do I can clean them lol!
Sunday morning, coffee in hand and a new Mustie vid 3 minutes old. Nice.
Was waiting for this. Excellent
Mustie. You are the greatest! Where others get frustrated, your attitude is awesome. Wtg.
Honestly just change the water pump if it’s been sitting that long the water pump will just disintegrate I have dealt with this on several four stroke boat motors as well as two stroke boat motors in the past
rubber! Destroyed by most things known to man. Also metal and saltwater.
Just after sitting that long the water will get hard and brittle
The gas in the tank most assuredly had oil in it. I suspect the auto oiler had failed and he was premixing and forgot to tell you. That broken oil line you found could have been the problem. Make sure the oiler works or just forget it and pre mix.
100% change that water pump. It would be a shame to loose that motor to overheat over an impeller.
Be sure to check/change the gear oil.
That float on top of the oil tank I believe is for the low oil alarm. The fact it’s down and not screaming tells me it’s not working. I’m not sure if it has any bearing on the oil filling.
Those old black Max’s really scream and have a nice howl to em. Nice score!
Your videos are always mesmerizing- it’s like standing next to you in the garage as you talk through what your doing. To me no other channel manages to draw the viewer in like you do!
Love the boat videos thats a nice one for sure
Seen a number of boats sink because of live wells. 👍 I would replace all the thru-hulls just to be safe and the rubbers hoses. Cheap insurance while the tank is out.
It's scary to think how much oil goes into the environment from just one of these boats. Say nothing of the contradiction when it comes to fishing.! Thumbs Up Mustie.!
there is very very very little to no oil that go into the environment on a good running boat the oil is designed to burn if you look there is no oil slick in the water at all
@@steveholland1163 The oil may be designed to burn, but two strokes don't create a complete combustion.
@@steveholland1163 there's no oil in the water because the exhaust isn't going into the bucket......the only thing in the bucket is water circulating through the engine.
EVERY two stroke leaves a film of oil behind it as the oil isn't completely burned up in combustion because if it did, there wouldn't be any film on the cylinder walls for lubrication...
I really do think you should learn a thing or two about outboards before making any more ludicrous comments.
@@LegendLength yeah 2 strokes are great for torque and performance but TERRIBLY inefficient and dirty.
@@muskokamike127 considering just rebuilt a 200 hp hpdi i think i know just a little about two strokes and yes two stroke oil is designed to burn and the exhaust comes out of the bottom of the prop so yes its going into the water
You are an insperation, love watching you from across the pond, many thanks
Pressure washer is very satisfying. Definitely not the best boring part.
As other say, definitely change the impeller.
Mustie1, Please replace the water pump, that's a must. Also, in order for the choke to work you must push it in and turn key together in order for it to work. As for the throughhull, I would replace the other two as mentioned below, use marine 4200. When you turn on the master panel switch, you don't always need the bilge on it will come on with the auto float switch, you don't want to burn it out. Other than that, take her out and test drive her. She seems to be in good shape. Oh, one other thing, replace all the fuel lines and after that run only Rec fuel. Do not run any ethanol fuel as those 2 strokes don't fair well for long periods of time with it. You will also want to change the fuel/water separator at some point. Can't wait for the next video.
I really appreciate your thorough explanations of what you do and why you do it.
Nice video Darren I hope when you put the boat in the water you do some fishing would like to see you catch some fish from the boat
My father and I once worked together selling *2-part* closed cell polyurethane foam kits. We sold to the Marine Industry who filled bouys with them so they never sank even if struck & cut, it was also injected into hulls of boats and bodywork of all sorts of vehicles eg. for Driver Seat heat insulation.
Hey. all the float is for is a warning system,supposed to be a horn when the float is down. The tank will only stay at the level it is when you install the cap because it will be air bound and maintain that level. You should check that warning horn as it should have come on with the oil cap off.
When I was a kid in the 70's my parents had a ski boat with a 1967 Mercury 110 HP inline 6 cylinder 2 stroke that I had named Mr. Mercury so when you said that it brought back a lot of good memories.
i think i would defiantly change that water pump impeller..last thing u need is for it to fail in the middle of the lake .. and u know thats exactly where it will fail..lol great vid!!
Trolling motor get you back to the shore. LOL
That boat sure looks to be in good condition. Nice job fixing the steering and getting the engine to run. I would think that thing will go like a rocket with that engine. Looking forward to going for a ride (on smooth water!). Thanks for the tutorial.
Funny story about through hull fittings and bilge pumps. So I had a bunch of people down to the marina and had planned to go out but a storm was moving in. Threw up the camper canvas at the back before it started pouring and as we were sitting there having a beer I heard the bilge pump go on (as it normally does when it's raining). It is a biggie, something like 1000 gph....and it cycled off....went off again, and kept running. Wait, what? Got everyone off the rear deck....ooopsy, the through hull fitting had broken and it was just cycling the water around the bilge. Luckily I have two, just shut off that one and let the other take over.
Learning lesson: the torque of the pump was so high that every time it went on, it jolted the hose and stressed the fitting. Next ones I bought were labelled as "unbreakable" FRP nylon as opposed to plastic.
A peaceful finish to the video. I love these finishes
You might have done this But I would check and probably redo those wire repairs on the motor. Taped repairs make me nervous!
The choke is activated when you push in on the key as your are cranking the engine. If the water pump is working you should have a water stream unless the line is plug which you already checked or the pump impeller has failed. So please for the 30 bucks and 1 hour of easy work change the impeller. Love your videos keep them coming.
If I'm remembering right, there are two kinds of throughulls. The Delrin (black) ones are for below the waterline (they're tougher) and the white ones are for above the waterline situations. If one of those through-hulls deteriorated from age, might it be time to replace all three?
I think he wanted to replace the two live well ones at the same time but after four stores he only found one. I wouldn't be surprised if he eventually doesn't replace the other two as well.
Most fittings now are polypropylene uv resistant plastic.
What's important is using the correct sealant. Marine sealant will actually keep water out below the water line. Regular silicone like he used will fail.
It's def time to do all of them. Ok it's not a bluewater cruiser but it will still sink when one fails. It's not IF, it's WHEN.
I want to see these boats
@@victorbitter583 keep drain plugs that fit in them from outside or inside when broke off. crisis averted, may have to take a tiny swim to plug a hole.
keep a spare plug or three for the boat drain also(may stop you/someone else from sinking), modeling clay/electrical putty works too..
also know that those low bottom transom holes will be out of water and become drains when forward underway after a certain speed, most will become fairly negative pressure and suck water out faster also!
Your channel is inspiring me to try my hand at something like this. This seems so much more rewarding than just buying something newer. Really make it yours.
We know it will run flawlessly. Now the question is how many fishes can you track down and bring it home.
He can run em down in that speed boat
I appreciate you 'thinking out loud'; very helpful.
I would change the water impeller and all the fuel line and bulb. The line in the line will break down with ethanol gas and fill your carbs with trash. I would also premix in the tank and bypass the oil injection system. If that injection system fails you probably won't know until the power head is trash.
As others said, change the water water pump impeller. If a hard impeller fin breaks off on your first test, the motor can burn in a very short time.
Mustie1 "it's not going up"
Me "yeah, but it's not going down either"....
That's what I said.
Great video! I owned one of these brand new in 1988. 1800 FS model. 150 HP was an upgrade. 115 was the standard equipment. The boat was destroyed in a BASS event on lake Erie in 1999.
Trailer axels he hehe the suprizes that get you before you even get to the water!!! Thanks Mustie!!!; )
Yep, I would take the hubs off and repack the wheel bearings and replace the wheel bearing and associated seals as necessary. Also install some buddy bearings to easily keep them greased. Also taking off the wheels and clean and lubricate the lug nut threads to make sure they work when you need to service a tire.
I hope he changes it that grey fuel line🤔
Yip check the bearing s on the hubs grease them before you go anywhere
They say the only thing that worls on an old boat is the owner :) Actually this looks like a good find, even the trailer looks in decent shape. Can't wait to see it run on the water.
Mustie1 a RUclips channel " SmarterEveryDay" just put out an episode "How does a carburetor work" which puts all of the details you have described over the years with cleaning carbs into live video. It's amazing to see "how" a carb works.
Had a boat motor mechanic tell me those oil injection systems aren't worth the trouble. He bypassed mine and I just mix the gas and oil in the tank. Haven't had any trouble with it since. Runs fine.
You should be getting a low oil alarm with that upper tank that low on start up. May need an alarm horn
You hooked me on the first video. I can't stop watching! Good dialogue; helpful and humorous. I enjoyed the project, the adventure.
The float in the oil reservoir on the engine sets off an alarm if the oil drops too low.
For sure! Maybe the alarm module or piezo buzzer is defective. Ive also seen where folks unhook the buzzer too! Not a good idea
Thanks for having us over to the shop Mustie1.
I'm still laughing at the live mouse that ran off 😂
glad you didn't scream like a little girl. that would have been embarassing.
Mustie needs a salt rifle.
@@Rose.Of.Hizaki I have 4 of those but they suck, to be effective vs larger critters it requires point-blank range.
Yes I was laughing also you think there were not in the air box also. Or a nest . And then pressure wash the engine ? He needs a outboard tech .
Agree 💯 with all those saying replace that impeller. Years of sitting have caused it to dry out along with the seals on the pump. The vanes are likely stiff and no longer flexible. The pump housing isn’t symmetrical. At the pick up side the vanes extend and pick up water and as they spin towards the engine side they compress against the housing and build water pressure. Since it’s been sitting I doubt the vanes will extend to pick up as much water and they are likely to break apart and lodge small pieces in the water tubes.
My guess is it took the pump awhile to prime itself as much of it was still above the water in the bucket. It will flow plenty of water even without the thermostat opening, but you will feel the water warm up with your hand when it does.
8:45 note to all contact lens wearers: wear gloves when you handle silicone. If you get some on your fingers and even if you wash your hands thoroughly it leaves a residue that can damage your eyes. I found this out the hard way and when I visited the eye dr he told me about this issue.
ALWAYS wear gloves!
👍
I have a similar vintage tracker v Hull (88). Dumped the Merc for a older Johnson. Solved my hard starting issue. Especially in the cold, the older mercs were notorious for having the auto oiler crap out and being really hard to start.
There is a bleeding procedure for purging the oil system.
bleed oil,,,not water.
Another top project for Mustie1 ironing out problems one by one +hope the mouse got new home !! We cant wait till he gets it in the water ..🚚😀
Hi
Be careful running the engine without water, if you are not planning to chage the impeller.
Good luck👍
Impeller is so old and changing it is cheap insurance. Should be changing it.
Awesome Mustie!!! Can’t wait to work on mine. Just picked up a 1989 Ranger 365v with a Yamaha 150pro V engine
I was in the mood for a Mutstie video this morning, so I watched this one again
The horses and the distance barking dog the beauty of nature and its plausible silence, my sweet dream.
These have thermostats and bypass poppet valves, complicated cooling system.
If you read the Mercury service manual, they tell you for the first tank of fuel of the season to add oil to the gasoline until you can verify that the oil injection system is properly working.
There are a few things that get serviced when you replace the impeller as there are a couple of seals, the primary culprit, the shift seal that if they leak sucks water into the lower unit and takes the gears out in a few hours of operation. The cost of a impeller kit and seals/o-rings in cheap compared to having to replace everything south of the power head.
Always check the oil level in the lower gear case. Besides the oil level being low, you can see if you've got a leak with the exposure of water in the oil or low oil level.
There is a solenoid for the primer system on the carbs. While you have all the covers off, I'd pull the starter and lubricate the Bendix gear. It's simpler to service while in the shop than while out on the lake or river.
A bargain boat from Santa Clause.
I shouldn't be laughing at this 😂😂😂