I Made A Modular Bunker Tile
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- This video is sponsored by Skillshare. The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/thecultofcrafting01231
In this video I'll show you how I made a bunker for my trench tile terrain set.
The terrain piece is aimed at Warhammer 40,000 and The Imperial Guard AKA The Astra Militarum, but will probably fit any contemporary or futuristic tabletop wargame.
Warhammer 40K Stencils by Games Workshop: regimental-standard.com/2019/...
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Tools and materials from the video (affiliate links):
Proxxon Hot Wire Cutter: amzn.to/3R1sXKZ
Static Grass, 2mm Autumn: amzn.to/3BDvMvW
Static Grass, 4mm Summer : amzn.to/3dd0536
Static Grass, 4mm Dead Grass: amzn.to/3BC1bi3
Mod Podge Matte: amzn.to/3d9BzzI
Closest thing I can find (affiliate links):
Static Grass Applicator : amzn.to/3dbqfTP
Coconut Fiber: amzn.to/3dba2hn
Feel free to comment, if there's something I forgot to list.
This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you buy a product via one of the links, I’ll receive a small commission. This doesn’t cost you anything extra, so it’s a nice way for you to support the channel and it helps me to make more videos and not die from starvation.
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Thanks for your support! I'll make sure the dark gods of crafting hear of this. 😊 
Хобби
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/thecultofcrafting01231
I used to do a lot of the terrain at my GW when I worked there. If you ever want to transfer designs to use as detailing like your imperial eagle, I would use the shirt-cardboards that you get from dry cleaners after they run your shirts. Most of them will give a few away for free. One side is laminated, the other side is exposed card material, and you can then use transfer paper to draw over your design and then cut it out, bypassing the issue with your stencil paper seperating since there is no stencil that is stuck this time. The laminated side takes paint well, and the card side soaks glue well enough to stick to whatever surface you want.
Thanks, good advice! 😊
This project reminds me a lot of a 1930 toy named "Morgoma". It was a modular trench system. They made the terrain a few cm up from the floor, so trenches were effectively in the ground.
I like your bunker a lot.
You absolutely nailed the bunker paint/texture!
First rule of bunker building: Always place a very big sign on the bunker roof to allow enemy spotters to identify your bunker.
🤣
It's actually not that weird. If you look throughout history you'll see vehicles with large markings of their military to avoid getting bombed by their own planes. Not that strange to think they'd do the same for fortifications.
I know why your short static grass isnt standing up the way you want. I noticed that when applying it onto a glob of glue the gripperthingy(sorry english is not my native language) was not touching each individual glob therefor you did not have a completed circuit and therefor your static grass applicator is not working. You need the positive charge to be in the applicator and the negative charge to actually be in the glue blob otherwise your static grass applicator is essentially just an overpriced strainer.
Attaching the "gripperthingy" to a dry part of the terrain piece does nothing.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate you taking the time. 🙂 I think I explained myself poorly. It's just the 2mm grass, where it doesn't seem to make much difference. The two 4 mm grasses are standing up nicely. On rewatching the video, I notice that it's hard to see from the viewing angle, but if you look at the final reveal, you should be able to tell.
I do the same thing in the video "I Made 4 Trench Tiles" with a better viewing angle, where you can see the grass clearly standing up. In fact, I've tried turning both the applicator and the subject sideways, and the grass shot out of the applicator into the glue on the tile. If you check out the Geek Gaming Scenics video, where Luke tests applicators, you'll see that he just hovers the clip above the base near the applicator. So sticking the alligator clip (had to look that one up 😄) into the glue shouldn't be necessary. 🙂
I don’t want to be that guy or even really care but isn’t that Aquila facing the wrong direction.
If you mean that I accidentally swapped the heads around, yes. 😁
Just imagine there is some poor imperial guard engineer shaking in his boots, praying the commissar doesn't notice.
@@spitfire3975 I think you meant to say there WAS a poor Imperial Guard engineer.
Simply solution is to get a Guardmen with a paint case and brush to paint over the mistake. 😇
It's the rare reverse aquila 😆.
I'd be amused, though, if people could come up with story reasons why it might be reversed, apart from a mistake, though the thought of some overworked engineer realizing in the middle of the night that he reversed the design does make me laugh.
As is the thought of some space marines attaching some sort of significant meaning to it.
Terrific stuff. Just found the channel. I've been a terrain maker since 96, and I already snagged 2 tidbits from this video. 🙏 I have one trick for you, which you may have already known. Use flush cut snips on brass rod for spent casings. You can get a lot of them from a single rod.
Look forward to watching more.
Ooh, hadn't thought of that! Nice trick!
An interesting concept for future designs: If a piece of concrete has a significant chunk out of it, take the removed bits and weather them too, place them wherever they would've landed from the damage with some concrete-dirt around it.
That’s great. Love the shape. It has great visual weight.
Pretty dope, I miss hand crafting terrain. There was something magical about it and made it feel more like a hobby than just a money sink
Excellent bunker. Find yourself a piece of gravel size lava rock for rough & concrete textures on XPF. Alex Fast Dry Caulking is how I hide gaps and joints on foam it's cheep and paintable if you run into that roof issue again and want to make it look like one piece. Just smear it into the joint with your fingertips and if you wet your fingers before touching it the caulking it won't stick to your digits.
Looks fantastic! For the aquilla, I'd suggest mod podge to glue it on and seal it, as mod podge is supposed to be a varnish as well as a PVA, it is perfect for cardboard
Also as the aquilla is facing to the right, this works a pre heresy bunker :P
🤣
This looks awesome. Great job!
This is cool, and I love the battle damage. It wouldn't be 40k without battle damage!
It is missing the blood though, but I could see youtube not liking that
Dear CoC, Outstanding tutorial - thank you! Best Wishes Johnny
Many thanks! 😊
This is the nicest grimey congrete I have seen in some time
Thanks! I never thought about moving the wire on my proxon to cut at an angle! Genius!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful! 😊
I know nothing about Warhammer, just here to admire the work. Looks great.
Much appreciated! 😊
Without the Aquila, you could probably use that bunker for any modern or SciFi wargame...
Wonderful video with a beautiful result!
Fantastic build! Inspiring!
Превосходная постройка и окраска военно-инженерного сооружения. И имитация бетона, грунта и растительности выглядит весьма реалистично. Лайк.
Excellent construction and painting of a military engineering structure. And the imitation of concrete, soil and vegetation looks very realistic. Like.
It's beautiful! I love the bunker!
Future video idea: can you make a modular fortress behind the trenches to further support and help the front lines?
That hot wire thing is pretty cool.
Pretty hot, actually. 😁
Awesome bunker but one little note for the future: The Imperial Aquila open eye should be the left.
This is awesome I will 100% be making this!
Looks great!
Love it! Keep it up!
Good job on this. Some Space Hulk rooms/corridors would be a cool next project.
This looks fantastic, great job and easy to follow. Question for a non english-native: what is washing up liquid? Like dish soap?
Yes, correct. 😊
That looks cool, nice work.
Really like that mate
I love how this all looks, you should definitely add some barbed wire to the trenches and bunker around the edges
Really cool tutorial.
looks amazing :) and simple, my first idea for roof would be magnets, but yours is easier :)
Excellent work :D
Det ser godt ud. 🙂
Beautiful. Gonna build it right away in Valheim.
nice job!
The sequel we didn't deserve, but the one we needed
You deserve so much more love for these exceptionally quality videos. Keep up the amazing work!
Thanks, that's very kind of you. 😊
11:17 is my jar of Reggie give it back.
The pain of when the paint squirts out like that!
Historically bunkers has very small openings for obvious reasons but space marines are a different breed.
Yeah, realism goes out the window when I make terrain. Ease of creation, playability and looks are more important to me. :-)
Fantastic-- prompts some great ideas! Silly question, but where did you find that DIY scenic glue sprayer? Looking for an alternative to my empty Liquitex ink dropper bottle....
Thanks! 😊 Oh, at a dollar store a long time ago. You can find small spray bottles on Amazon for air travel.
I feel lie there should be more cover in the bunk! Like, maybe the walls are a little bigger so you can hide under the windows or behind the walls/buttress.
Sure, but it's built for a game, so I prioritize playability. 🙂
I’m no expert but I think the reason the two millimeter grass was falling flat is due to how far away the applicator was.
It could also be that the static anchor placement was too far away
thats some sloppy mud right there, hanz would approve
Great video! :)
Amazing video
Epic deaign. How did you make or where did you get the plastic crate that is seen on the base of the bunker from please?
It's from the Necromunda box set, I believe.
Only problem is strategically, with no partitions in that bunker, it's basically a kill room.
Great job aq Always mate 👍
Thanks! 😊
Nice!
Alleine weil ich mir bei deinem Akzent NICHT die Ohren abschneiden möchte hast du dir meinen Sub redlich verdient. ;-)
If you want it to last, use thin plasticard for the stencils instead of cereal boxes.
great video how you learned to make diagrams and always wanted to start doing it because I love how it turns out did you do a course or did you learn on your own? greetings 👋
Thanks! I'm not sure what you're asking, so let me know if I'm answering the wrong thing. I guess you mean the drawings I showed early in the video, where I mention which angles to measure, etc. The math side of that I learned in school. How to use the software to make the drawings, I learned online from different courses. Mostly a site called Lynda.com, but that was years ago. You can probably learn it on RUclips or Skillshare nowadays. I made the drawings in a vector software called Affinity Designer. The most popular vector software is called Illustrator. A free one is called Inkscape. 😊
Subbed at 19.5k subs... gonna leave this comment here so I could say that I'm one of the og's when you get 1 million subs
Thanks! 😊 You have more confidence in my channel than me! 😄
@@thecultofcrafting nah man it's inevitable cuz your videos are high quality as crap. It's actually surprising how you only have 19k subs. Can't wait for future videos cuz I already know they're gonna be great
Impressive
Can't wait to try your ground texture. I bought some AMS Mud 2.0 but it is so hard to get. Is there a way to make the ground look more wet if I wanted to go for a real muddy appearance?
I'd make it darker and shiny using water effects, clear UV resin, gloss varnish or gloss Mod Podge.
@@thecultofcrafting That all makes sense. Thanks.
Impressive - you're very talented no question about that, however, I'm still a bit disappointed about the outcome (albeit just a tad), because the bunker is open on all sides which leaves very little protection for those inside and I'm not too fond of the imperial Eagle as I think it would have looked a lot cooler if it had been painted on the roof instead and then weathered. I would also like to watch a video of you making one or more bunkers which are destroyed.
Yeah, a painted eagle might have been cool too. I've kept the template, so it might make an appearance in the future. 😉 As for the bunker being open on all sides, that was a decision based on gameplay and rules, but I could have made more of a point of mentioning that in the video. 😊
Hadn't thought of making destroyed bunkers. I like that idea. 👍
This is BEAUTIFUL! I wish I had your skills & talent in crafting this WONDERFUL WORK OF ART! Say, have you ever thought of making a business out of this? I'd say you'd be reasonably SUCCESSFUL! So, waddaya say?
Thanks, that's very kind of you! 😊 I'd like that. Maybe some day. 😃
@@thecultofcrafting Say, if you are gonna actually make this into a business (& I hope you do!), might I humbly suggest breaking into the Dungeons & Dragons figurines market? With the rise of D&D's popularity, I'd say it'd be a VERY LUCRATIVE market for you, especially with the Open Gaming License mess out of the way! I would also suggest the Warhammer 40k as well as the Warhammer Fantasy/Age Of Sigmar market but you might face copyright/trademark infringement lawsuits because of it but then, there are others who still do it anyway! Whatever the case, I wish you the BEST in whatever you do! STAY WELL & BE SAFE!
I think your static grass applicator is basically useless. You're not using the attached wire, you're supposed to keep it touching the glue puddles while you drop the flock.
The entire point is to charge the flock fibres so they'll be repelled by the glue and landing upright (also, helps to add a bit of salt to the glue). Otherwise they just lay flat like yours - if this is the effect you wanted than fine, but you could have just used a kitchen siff for that.
Thanks for the advice. You don't need to actually touch the glue itself, you can attach it to the base. The grass does stand up - just not the 2 mm stuff (or perhaps it's just so short I can't tell the difference). :-)
From my experience no, it's much better to touch the glue. Which gets annoying if you have tons of small puddles and half of them is already covered when you were doing the other half, but well. Yes, foam and some polymer glues catch static electricity nicely, but they're good insulators, especially the MDF you have.
Great job
What scale is this
Thanks. 😊 It's for wargaming in 28-32 mm range.
when doing the watered down PVA, why is the soap needed? I'm honestly curious and never seen or heard of that (I'm getting into Diorama building)
It's not strictly needed, but it can be helpful. It reduces surface tension which helps the liquid soak into the dirt and flock instead of lying on top of it. Some people will pre-spray the ground with diluted isopropyl alcohol to do the same thing, but I find that a little soap gets the job done.
When added to diluted paint (when you're making a wash for example) it makes the liquid easier to spread out and less prone to form droplets.
@@thecultofcrafting AH alright! Def gonna need to remember this when i start going crazy with making them once i find room. Thanks for the info for sure!
"washing up liquid" == soap
What foam safe spray did you use?
Det ser godt ud i øvrigt.
Takker! Pinty Plus Chalk Finish Broken White. I just double checked, it doesn't actually state that it's foam safe, but it's water based and doesn't smell like the usual propellants used in rattle cans, which is what melts the foam. I've sprayed it straight onto both XPS and EPS foam from like 5 cm without it harming the foam.
@@thecultofcrafting Thank you! I also tried a water based spray once, which in fact did melt my XPS foam. I will try and see if I can scrounge up your brand. Keep up the good work.
What Brand of paint and Brushes you use
Vallejo, AK, P3, Citadel, craft paints, cheap rattle cans and more. A bunch of cheap brushes for terrain. Mostly Windsor & Newton series 7 and Raphael 8404 brushes for miniatures.
the stencil page is not working, do you have a back up link? Thank you .
Strange. Perhaps GW has removed it. If you google "40K aquila" or "40k imperial eagle" you should find it.
What fomecutter are you using?
Proxxon
feels like Vraks
👍👍👍
I wish i had the resources to do this stuff 😞
Give it time. ☺
3d print and paint
Do you ever use Milliput
Sure, but mostly for miniatures. For larger things it's too expensive.
Hey just wondering what washing up fluid is.
Dish soap
@@thecultofcrafting I'm an idiot
😂
Ah it's here, I can't wait to watch!
Thanks Craftdaddy! (yes that's what I'm calling you now).
🤣 Well, thanks!
Hello first time viewer. What is your washing up liquid?
I might have used the wrong word. It's liquid soap, dish soap or whatever it's called. :-)
@@thecultofcrafting genius!
Don't you use some of the bits you pull out of your walls under where you pulled it out? There would be "rubble" at the base of the walls where the damage happened.
I didn't, but that's a good idea. 👍
@@thecultofcrafting Yeah.. I used to do that stuff when I dabbled in model trains many MANY years ago... We did molded ceramic pieces... they would sometimes break taking them out of the molds.. Had to use the bits for something. LOL!
Instructions unclear. Face now glued to ceiling. Send help.
🤣
Do you ever make your own Sculpting Tools
Not yet
Nice Vedio man ;) and are u danish ??
Yes 😁
@@thecultofcrafting Well det er jeg også 😉
are u from denmark ?
Yup
Hvor køber du xps fom henne¿
@@GalMatis Architegn.dk
"Aquila" that's an interesting way to pronounce target.
😂
glue sticks are great for sticking paper to paper, and absolutely useless for anything else
Minecraft irl
These look like they work with the trench tiles, do you think it's worth trying?
Sure, but be sure to plan how the tiles will meet up. I didn't, so they match up perfectly. 🙂 But it's fine.
What are your social media handles?
IG: @thecultofcrafting
FB: @The Cult of Crafting
Would have been easier to make a mold and poured concrete
I'd still have to build the thing to make the mold. 😉