Is this a job you'd take on? I really think this is something that everyone should absolutely do themselves if they're comfortable giving it a shot. The very first time I ever did it I overtightened the master link and had to replace it, I've never had an issue since tho :)
So nostalgic. I went through all of that with my V-Strom 650. Getting the front sprocket off for the first time on that bike, was maddening. It would not budge until I got a friend to put all his weight on the rear brake and I used an impact wrench to get it off. Then had to replace the washer because it moved with the nut and bent the teeth on the washer itself. But man it felt SO GOOD after everything was put back together. Such a massive difference. Front and rear sprocket change. New chain. Got it all cleaned up. Still blows my mind how huge the difference was. Actually starting to miss that bike a lot lol. I love my Tiger, but that V-Strom was such a good learning experience, and I was so proud of it and all the work I put into it, when I sold it. They're fantastic bikes. Hope you have an awesome weekend! Stay safe!
Good call on the impact driver for the drive sprocket. I was leaning on mine with the largest breaker bar I have, a 200 lbs-ft torque wrench and it was clicking with no movement. The cheap Chinese impact driver had it off in seconds. Should have though of that sooner.
God vid! A job I've done, albeit with cable clutch. Made a huge error purchasing a cheap chinesium chain tool (really, really crap) and ended up having to buy a decent one (buy cheap, buy twice lesson learned!!!). As per your advice here, I torqued and locktighted according to the manual, job all good. The crap around the front sprocket on mine made yours look super clean 😂😂 cheers, Andy. Edit: That should say "Good vid"😂
Cable clutches are ever so slightly easier, neither are bad tho! Oh yeah that'd do it :D Mind is an oxford pro and it's done about 12 chains now. So it's paid for itself many many times over. Hey we all have to learn that lesson for ourselves at least once I think :D Excellent :) Hahaha to be fair it's a lot less muddy over here, my gunk was just chain lube and metal I think. Thank you :)
Why thank you, I'm not sure of which allen keys you're talking about tho :D If it's the Wera ones I just got them in an amazon box from memory, so I did not :'(
17:50 You want to FILL those sleeves that the master link goes through with grease. That is the grease the o rings are sealing in, where the pins of the master link rotate inside the sleeves, because, once you flair the pins, you can never get grease inside the sleeves again, without removing that link and replacing it. I hope I'm clear. This is the number one reason a link fails (besides clip on master links and the clip on backwards). The chain ends have a sleeve from outside to inside. The link pins/spindles/shafts go through them. The o rings seal that area between the master link cover plates (the figure 8 flat pieces of metal with the rivet through them) locking the grease inside for the life of the chain. If the grease isn't there, or if its not packed, just like you would pack roller bearings with grease (except its just one roller inside one race) that link will be where the chain fails first. The compression of the o rings (or x or Z rings) is the important way to see if you have them riveted tight enough. The o ring should be squeezed as much as the factory ones. Over doing it is very hard to reverse and very bad. Also, since you will throw a code if your rear ABS sensor is damaged, and it will disable your entire ABS system, I would be more careful with it. If you are doing off-road and want a better way to disable your ABS than pull the fuse or break the sensors, put a "normally on" push button momentary switch on your handlebar and run an extension from your ABS fuse to the normally on momentary switch and then back to the ABS circuit. Your ABS will function normally. If you push the momentary switch, it will fault your ABS (ABS will be entirely disabled) but as soon as you turn the ignition off and back on, the code will self clear, the ABS will be working normally, until you kill it again with the switch. It's a more "elegant" solution. And is really helpful on steep slippery or sandy descents where you want to use the locked rear wheel to control your speed. And, last, when torqueing with thread locker, read the thread locker instructions. Loctite says it takes 24 hours for the thread locker to cure. If you go ride immediately, your thread locker strength may be compromised. Also, there is really a thing called wet torque and dry torque. Please, if your bolt doesn't specify a "wet" torque, don't apply thread locker or anti-seize or some other lubricant and use your dry torque readings. You will over-torque your bolt/nut. Loctite says to use 20% less than the dry torque, to avoid not over torqueing. Suzuki gives the wet torque measurement when they specify a thread locker. A bolting system with torque ratings is an elastic system that normally assumes you don't need a thread locker. In the case of the front sprocket nut, the manual is giving a "wet" torque measurement, which Suzuki always uses in the manuals when they specify a thread locker, but they don't spell out that the torque is "wet".
I'm not sure what you mean by fill tbh, the hollow section that you mushroom out? I wouldn't ever pack that with grease as it wouldn't ever go anywhere. I did grease the entirety of the roller and o ring before sealing it up. I've fitted a lot of chains over the years and have never had a master link fail, including in Ireland where most of my riding was (sadly) in rain. If you watched that section of the video I measure the outside dimensions of the pre assembled links and always match that. On the ABS sensor, each to their own amigo, I've never damaged one either. Things can sometimes look more rough on camera than they are. Can't remember exactly what I did there that's caught your eye. I usually just pull the fuse if I really want it off, but a switch is certainly a good idea, I don't get to do much trails or gravel sadly though at the moment, maybe one day! I'm actually a mechanical engineer, so preaching to the choir, however in my manual all wet torques are specified with a liquid drop symbol, the front sprocket didn't have that from memory, hence why I stuck with the specification. I'd have to rewatch the video to really see what has caused you concern, but I hate my own voice so I'll avoid that :D Makes editing hard. I must look that up on the loctite website though, good shout, I hadn't seen they specified a full 20% less, I know anti seize or oils can be up to 40% less depending on what is is etc.
Thought you might be interested, did some tests at work today as we have some equipment for said testing. Fresh loctite makes 1-3% difference, so negligible, to torque applied, that was blue and red. I then googled it and found a channel that had also tested this, and anti seize. Interestingly out of date loctite did make a difference.
I prefer hydraulic clutches for sure. Maybe a tiny bit more trouble when doing stuff like in this vid, but no cable adjustmetns ever, no lubing cables ever, and no broken cables ever mean it's a win for hydraulics.
Honestly the people who usually get upset are people who 100% don't even own bikes 😂 Had one fella call me a hack for it and I should push the pins out etc.....like I'm not reusing a cookt chain ever 😂
Had both style of clutch. The only time I hated a hydraulic one was when it kept getting air in the line and I had to bleed it every 1000k's. Funnily enough the manufacturer went back to a cable clutch on the next model.
@@TheGorillaBikerOh bloody hell. Where do they bleed from? I've been looking and I can't find it anywhere. Would that be why the bike stalls when selecting first whole the engine is cold?
The slave cylinder, I think I did a video on it on the Falco, hold on. I did! ruclips.net/video/dyf2CUWcWBo/видео.html Yes, that was an issue for me, I did find with the Falco it was best to give it 5 mins before even trying to on a cold morning.
I called it out in the video, it's as directed by the service manual to keep the slave cylinder push rod in there, if the slave cylinder isn't engaged say the pushrod can pull out with the slave cylinder. Nothing to do with the master cylinder, altho I'm not sure what you mean by outside the master, when you pull the clutch lever the pushrod at the master pushes IN to the master to push fluid in the line.
@@TheGorillaBiker sorry, not master cylinder. I meant slave cylinder. I was thinking that it is the same system as for the brake calipers, where if you pull the brake lever, the pistons will pop out the calipers.
I just cut it with a grinder, people have lost their minds in the past telling me I'll cut my swing arm, tyre, electronics, a full orphanage full of children. Literal nonsense so I avoid it. You did. That was it. It was that fast. I'm that good :D
Is this a job you'd take on? I really think this is something that everyone should absolutely do themselves if they're comfortable giving it a shot.
The very first time I ever did it I overtightened the master link and had to replace it, I've never had an issue since tho :)
So nostalgic. I went through all of that with my V-Strom 650. Getting the front sprocket off for the first time on that bike, was maddening. It would not budge until I got a friend to put all his weight on the rear brake and I used an impact wrench to get it off. Then had to replace the washer because it moved with the nut and bent the teeth on the washer itself. But man it felt SO GOOD after everything was put back together. Such a massive difference. Front and rear sprocket change. New chain. Got it all cleaned up. Still blows my mind how huge the difference was.
Actually starting to miss that bike a lot lol. I love my Tiger, but that V-Strom was such a good learning experience, and I was so proud of it and all the work I put into it, when I sold it. They're fantastic bikes.
Hope you have an awesome weekend! Stay safe!
I'm always amazed at how clean other peoples bikes are. Looks like new.
Why thank you. To be fair it's insanely easy to keep bikes clean where I am, and I have the garage
@@TheGorillaBiker I couldn't keep my bike clean if I tried. Which is maybe why I really don't try.
To be fair I never bothered much in Ireland, it'd be dirty the same day again.
Great vid. Thanks for the hints, especially the bit about cable tying the clutch.
No problem! Release the clutch also before reinstalling makes it easier!
Good call on the impact driver for the drive sprocket. I was leaning on mine with the largest breaker bar I have, a 200 lbs-ft torque wrench and it was clicking with no movement. The cheap Chinese impact driver had it off in seconds. Should have though of that sooner.
Yeah the ol hammer action they provide just works wonders eh!!
God vid! A job I've done, albeit with cable clutch. Made a huge error purchasing a cheap chinesium chain tool (really, really crap) and ended up having to buy a decent one (buy cheap, buy twice lesson learned!!!). As per your advice here, I torqued and locktighted according to the manual, job all good. The crap around the front sprocket on mine made yours look super clean 😂😂 cheers, Andy. Edit: That should say "Good vid"😂
Cable clutches are ever so slightly easier, neither are bad tho! Oh yeah that'd do it :D Mind is an oxford pro and it's done about 12 chains now. So it's paid for itself many many times over. Hey we all have to learn that lesson for ourselves at least once I think :D Excellent :)
Hahaha to be fair it's a lot less muddy over here, my gunk was just chain lube and metal I think. Thank you :)
Lovely set of allen keys there.
Did you keep the box they came in? I kept the box they came in, it's a lovely box.
Why thank you, I'm not sure of which allen keys you're talking about tho :D If it's the Wera ones I just got them in an amazon box from memory, so I did not :'(
@@TheGorillaBikerThe Wera box is black and has a crest thing on it. Almost looks like Harley Davidson (allen keys) lovely.
17:50 You want to FILL those sleeves that the master link goes through with grease. That is the grease the o rings are sealing in, where the pins of the master link rotate inside the sleeves, because, once you flair the pins, you can never get grease inside the sleeves again, without removing that link and replacing it.
I hope I'm clear. This is the number one reason a link fails (besides clip on master links and the clip on backwards). The chain ends have a sleeve from outside to inside. The link pins/spindles/shafts go through them. The o rings seal that area between the master link cover plates (the figure 8 flat pieces of metal with the rivet through them) locking the grease inside for the life of the chain. If the grease isn't there, or if its not packed, just like you would pack roller bearings with grease (except its just one roller inside one race) that link will be where the chain fails first.
The compression of the o rings (or x or Z rings) is the important way to see if you have them riveted tight enough. The o ring should be squeezed as much as the factory ones. Over doing it is very hard to reverse and very bad.
Also, since you will throw a code if your rear ABS sensor is damaged, and it will disable your entire ABS system, I would be more careful with it. If you are doing off-road and want a better way to disable your ABS than pull the fuse or break the sensors, put a "normally on" push button momentary switch on your handlebar and run an extension from your ABS fuse to the normally on momentary switch and then back to the ABS circuit. Your ABS will function normally. If you push the momentary switch, it will fault your ABS (ABS will be entirely disabled) but as soon as you turn the ignition off and back on, the code will self clear, the ABS will be working normally, until you kill it again with the switch.
It's a more "elegant" solution. And is really helpful on steep slippery or sandy descents where you want to use the locked rear wheel to control your speed.
And, last, when torqueing with thread locker, read the thread locker instructions. Loctite says it takes 24 hours for the thread locker to cure. If you go ride immediately, your thread locker strength may be compromised.
Also, there is really a thing called wet torque and dry torque. Please, if your bolt doesn't specify a "wet" torque, don't apply thread locker or anti-seize or some other lubricant and use your dry torque readings. You will over-torque your bolt/nut.
Loctite says to use 20% less than the dry torque, to avoid not over torqueing. Suzuki gives the wet torque measurement when they specify a thread locker.
A bolting system with torque ratings is an elastic system that normally assumes you don't need a thread locker. In the case of the front sprocket nut, the manual is giving a "wet" torque measurement, which Suzuki always uses in the manuals when they specify a thread locker, but they don't spell out that the torque is "wet".
I'm not sure what you mean by fill tbh, the hollow section that you mushroom out? I wouldn't ever pack that with grease as it wouldn't ever go anywhere. I did grease the entirety of the roller and o ring before sealing it up.
I've fitted a lot of chains over the years and have never had a master link fail, including in Ireland where most of my riding was (sadly) in rain.
If you watched that section of the video I measure the outside dimensions of the pre assembled links and always match that.
On the ABS sensor, each to their own amigo, I've never damaged one either. Things can sometimes look more rough on camera than they are. Can't remember exactly what I did there that's caught your eye. I usually just pull the fuse if I really want it off, but a switch is certainly a good idea, I don't get to do much trails or gravel sadly though at the moment, maybe one day!
I'm actually a mechanical engineer, so preaching to the choir, however in my manual all wet torques are specified with a liquid drop symbol, the front sprocket didn't have that from memory, hence why I stuck with the specification. I'd have to rewatch the video to really see what has caused you concern, but I hate my own voice so I'll avoid that :D Makes editing hard. I must look that up on the loctite website though, good shout, I hadn't seen they specified a full 20% less, I know anti seize or oils can be up to 40% less depending on what is is etc.
Thought you might be interested, did some tests at work today as we have some equipment for said testing. Fresh loctite makes 1-3% difference, so negligible, to torque applied, that was blue and red. I then googled it and found a channel that had also tested this, and anti seize. Interestingly out of date loctite did make a difference.
I prefer hydraulic clutches for sure. Maybe a tiny bit more trouble when doing stuff like in this vid, but no cable adjustmetns ever, no lubing cables ever, and no broken cables ever mean it's a win for hydraulics.
Yeah it is most certainly easier for some things, I just like cable operated clutches as you can fix them on the side of the road pretty easily.
I thought it was fairly standard practice to cut the chain with a grinder when you were removing it to change. 😄
Honestly the people who usually get upset are people who 100% don't even own bikes 😂
Had one fella call me a hack for it and I should push the pins out etc.....like I'm not reusing a cookt chain ever 😂
Had both style of clutch. The only time I hated a hydraulic one was when it kept getting air in the line and I had to bleed it every 1000k's. Funnily enough the manufacturer went back to a cable clutch on the next model.
Was that Aprilia by any chance? The Falco loved to be bled nice and regularly 😂
@@TheGorillaBiker Got it one. Had the 2005 RSVR1000R. Became very good at bleeding the clutch.
@@RoadsOfOz why am I not surprised 😂😂😂
@@TheGorillaBikerOh bloody hell. Where do they bleed from? I've been looking and I can't find it anywhere. Would that be why the bike stalls when selecting first whole the engine is cold?
The slave cylinder, I think I did a video on it on the Falco, hold on. I did!
ruclips.net/video/dyf2CUWcWBo/видео.html
Yes, that was an issue for me, I did find with the Falco it was best to give it 5 mins before even trying to on a cold morning.
Why tying the clutch lever? When you pull the clutch lever, the piston goes forward / outside the master cylinder. Same as with the brakes.
I called it out in the video, it's as directed by the service manual to keep the slave cylinder push rod in there, if the slave cylinder isn't engaged say the pushrod can pull out with the slave cylinder. Nothing to do with the master cylinder, altho I'm not sure what you mean by outside the master, when you pull the clutch lever the pushrod at the master pushes IN to the master to push fluid in the line.
@@TheGorillaBiker sorry, not master cylinder. I meant slave cylinder. I was thinking that it is the same system as for the brake calipers, where if you pull the brake lever, the pistons will pop out the calipers.
@@vladsbikeshed ah fair! No it actuates a pushrod that crosses over to your clutch and is what disengages it :) Cool system tbh!
I really wanna see how you cut your chain now and why it annoys people 😂
Also wish I could've seen you showing the shaft a good time
I just cut it with a grinder, people have lost their minds in the past telling me I'll cut my swing arm, tyre, electronics, a full orphanage full of children. Literal nonsense so I avoid it.
You did. That was it. It was that fast. I'm that good :D
Not the angle grinder 😭 think of the poor orphans who could've eaten that chain
@@4boyzzzz I know. I have deprived the world of an old, worn out chain
I find it easier to just grab my big bolt cutters than plug in a grinder :-) Locks cut: 2 Chains cut: 23 Wheel weights cut in half: 12 Bolts cut: 0