Key points I. Ailanthus: Non-native invasive introduced in 1784 in Philadelphia, PA II. Chemical control: Timing: mid to late summer Chemical options: Glyphosate or Triclopyr (amine or ester) Application methods: -Foliar glyphosate &/or 2% triclopyr @ 1.5 - 2% concentration -Cut-stump triclopyr amine 100% or ester 20% -Hack and squirt Triclopyr amine @ 100% Triclopyr ester @ 20% -Basal bark Triclopyr ester @ 20% III. What next? -Monitor for follow-up treatment -Favor or plant natives to occupy the space - Dead trees: Leave standing or lying for wildlife Use for firewood (cut and stack covered to dry)
Wow! An awesome, useful video as well as a printed summary. You all rock! When: Could someone tell me when it's best to do basal bark treatment--when it hasn't rained for a while? Should I wait until things dry up after a rain? Do not do it before a rain or it will wash off the bark, correct?
@@cestmoikim6514 Sorry for the delay in responding to this good question. The overall best time of year for a basal bark spray is late summer to early fall. In relation to rain, do not apply right before it's to rain and not on wet bark (immediately following a rain).
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 How long after the tree dies is it safe to cut and remove? Do you recommend multiple treatments before doing this? I also have two trees that were cut prior to me moving here that continue to sprout more. Would the last method work if I spray the stumps even though they don’t have leaves?
When he says to treat immediately, he means immediately. The veins in the wood will collapse very, very quickly when exposed to air. Those veins are only designed to work when in water, the slightest amount of drying the microscopic structure fails. In the basal bark method, he's right in saying you **have** to use the triclopyr ester. "ester" basically means that it is chemically treated so it behaves like a natural oil. This helps it to get past certain cellular structures and larger anatomies that water won't penetrate well. Especially oily, waxy or resinous tissues, but other things too. Bark, especially the outer layers, tend to have some oil, wax or resin for waterproofing, just like human skin does. This can be literally a few molecules thick layer, but that's enough to block water. Or water based pesticides.
@jackapache. For some reason the ester formulations are not labeled for application by hack-n-squirt. But, if you have this and it's high-enough concentration and mixed with the right carrier (an oil of some type) it can be applied as a basal bark treatment.
One of the best presentations I've seen on this subject. One thing I would suggest. Get rid of the spray bottle for hack and squirt and buy a couple of 500 ml plastic bottles that are used in chem labs etc, i.e. a squeeze bottle with a little plastic squirt tube coming off of it at an angle. I think I got 2 on-line for less than $10. You won't have any more wasted chemical running down the side of the tree from your hacks once you get the hang of how hard to squeeze the bottle. Another tip with those bottles, unscrew the lids a bit after use to release pressure, or empty them. Sometimes they seem to siphon out some of the fluid on their own, maybe in response to atmospheric pressure changes, not sure.
Thank you for this information! We had a home built where it’s overgrown with these trees and they’re such a problem. They’re sprouting up everywhere ha dive been digging up their roots pulling much as I can.
I live in central VA and these things are cropping up everywhere along the sides of roads, streets and backyards. I'm fighting them on my own and my family's properties, sadly I can't get anyone else involved so this video was very helpful and hopeful about the product in testing. I really hope the VA Dept of Forestry gets involved in controlling this menace to our woodlands. I've been watching for the spotted lanternfly and haven't seen any yet, thank goodness. Still see a few stinkbugs every year but those have lessened for some reason. There is a strong resemblence in leaf structure between this and our native Staghorn Sumac, and it's also somewhat similar to Ash, Hickory and Black Walnut. Best way to tell ToH and Sumac apart if not by the horrible smell is by the flowers/fruits. ToH flowers are a brownish-orange samaras, clusters of winged fruits, they look a little "frilly". The native Sumac seedheads are a roughly elongated conical shape (horn) that are supported by the stem, starting off green then turning to orange-red.
I have 200 acres in SW Virginia with significant infestations of ailanthus. I have found that simply girdling mature trees with a draw knife is very effective and cheap. Yes they ultimately fall, and yes, the frequently have stump sprouts, but the sprouts are weak and unhealthy, breaking off easily. When you kill the mature ailanthus, you release the native hickories, oaks, etc and they will shade out the regrowth of the ailanthus. I also think that ailanthus pathogens are encouraged by the killing of mature trees. You do have to be a bit patient for this to work.
Thank you for this comment. I'm happy to hear you are "attacking" your ailanthus. In general, when hardwood trees are cut, they sprout. The main exceptions to this would be on very mature trees or trees that have been repeatedly cut and sprout. Eventually the root system wears out to the point of not having the reserves to resprout. This, however, is after very many years, decades if not centuries.
Help to take saws all to bark for addition herbicide uptake. Also can cut concave spot on top of trunk or rubber band a bag at top to hold small pool herbicide that should minimize wound healing due to limited oxygen exposure under herbicide puddle.
I've seen Ailanthus trees continue to grow for almost a year from the severed trunk of a cut tree. Some foresters have reported contact dermaititis and even more acute allergy symptoms after contact with the sap. We have tried to find a parasitic or saprophytic fungus which might infect them, so far without any remarkable success. The Veracyllium prospect sounds interssting.
Just imagine how you would feel if you spent years building up a food forest with tons of different fruit trees and berry bushes and stuff and then you start getting these bastards growing everywhere you can't just dig them out because your trees are intertwined with the roots.
Supposedly if you use the Craig Harper Cocktail you shouldn't have to worry about killing root-intertwined trees. ruclips.net/video/Amv_T3YGDhY/видео.html Not sure if the fruit from the trees would be safe to eat, though.
I do as well, 100 miles east of Pittsburgh, my tree isn’t quite that big , probably 40 feet but it’s completely covered in lantern flies. It overhangs my driveway and I can’t even park under it as something is dripping from it, I don’t know if it’s from the tree or the lantern flies, either way I can’t take it anymore, I’m going to try this to kill the tree and try to take it down when it and the bugs are dead and before they hatch more next year.
I have a mature tree of heaven in my backyard that is about 60 ft tall and close to fences, houses, and a garage. I don't know much about plants and thought it was just a nice big tree when i bought the house. It still sends active shoots all summer long that I pull. Since it's winter now, would you recommend I wait until summer to get rid of it with a herbicide and then removal? Is the cut stump method effective in winter? How long can I wait after applying the herbicide to grind the stump?
Good questions. Stump treatment in winter is not ideal. I'd recommend waiting for late summer. You want to get it treated just before the leaves would start turning in your area. After removal and stump treatment (must be done right after cutting) then you can safely grind out the stump in about a month.
It's important to only pull shoots during winter when you can see them. Makimg sure ground is wet makes pulling much easier. If it is resistant, then break the sapling and dab at the break. This tree is extremely offensive and defensive. During spring and early summer the sap runs up the trunk, providing the leaves with nutrients from stored in the roots. By mid summer, the sap starts to run down the trunk and continues until fall. That's why you must treat using the hack and squirt method from mid July to September... Kill the roots! When you hack and shoot leave about 2 inches between each hack so that the sap continues to run down. If you don't the tree will send enzymes down to warn the roots of the trauma, and signal the production of thousands of new shoots in order to survive. The tree also has the ability to kill surrounding trees with these enzymes.
Also the best method is the hack and squirt. The following summer you will see a sparsity of leaves near the top of the tree. It may take a year or 2-3 before the tree is completely dead. If not repeat this procedure. Be patient!
I have one close to our house and I’m worried about the roots damaging the foundation. We are having it cut down and I’m so glad I saw your video so I can make sure to treat it right when it’s cut down! With the cut and treat method, how will I know when the roots are dead and it was successful? Will I ever be able to remove what’s ended ground? For reference, it has grown to about 33 feet.
By "products" do you mean the chemical products used? If so, we are reluctant to send a link to one point of sale option when there are many. Glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup and for which there are many brands and generic brands available) is readily available at nearly any place that sells herbicides. Look for at least 41% concentrate if you want to use it for cut-stump or hack-n-squirt applications. And if you want larger containers than you might find at a "Big box" home improvement store, local farm/Ag supply retail stores will have it. The triclopyr products may be slightly more challenging. I have not found them in sufficient concentrations at the big-box type places. I have found them, some times, at a local Ag Co-op or Farm Supply. Additionally, all of these can be purchased readily online. Ben Meadows and Forestry Suppliers are two options for online in addition to Amazon. I hope this helps. If not, please say so and I'll take another swipe.
what happens after treating Aitlanthus with Hack + Squirt, what happens to the tree? Does it shrivel and die? or will it fall over? I have some in my backyard and want to understand the likelihood of it falling over after treatment
Hi Connor, thanks for the question. The trees will stay standing and eventually die after hack and squirt. I would not recommend having standing dead trees next to a house, barn, garage, etc. They will be actively decaying and will eventually fall over (and may have branches fall off). If you have tree of heaven near your house, your best course of action is to hire someone to cut them, then treat the cut stumps with herbicide. Or if you are experienced with a chainsaw, you may cut them yourself.
Im a tree climbing arborist and have cut down a few huge ones. Its always scary as hell cuz they are so weak and brittle u cant trust it not to break and kill you.
It's not a bad idea for sure to use safety glasses not matter the product. Importantly, the label is the law and as such, not all labels required the use of eye protection.
I used crossbow on autumn olives. Squirted freshly cut stems. I used the Max concentration from label: 1 1/3 oz per quart of water. (Too weak?) Can you talk about clean up and reuse of the plastic squirt bottle? Water soluble? Rinse thoroughly and reuse? How long does it stay active. I chose reusable neoprene gloves. If they dry and sit for a couple days are they harmless? Crossbow Mix: 16.5% tricolpyr BEE, 34.4% 2,4-dichlorophenoxy acetic acid BEE, 49% other ingredients
As for the Crossbow... the portion of label www.cdms.net/ldat/ld02H006.pdf that addresses "cut-stump" (along with "basal bark") applications specifies to mix the product in diesel or kerosene in a 4 to 100 ratio. So, if I've done the math right, this would be 1 oz of product to 3 cups of an appropriate basal oil (such as diesel). The dilution you made up is a bit weak but may still be somewhat effective. You'll soon know! Also, you mixed with water. This label specifies water for foliar applications but not for cut-stump. I'm not sure why this is but I would go with the oil based mixture as any runoff of the stump onto the stem will also penetrate the bark and have some efficacy. As far as gloves and containers... The general recommendation is triple rinse and remember to run the rinsate through the system (squirt bottle pump) to also rinse the tubing and such. Ideally, the rinsate should be applied on the landscape as you would apply the product. In this way, it will breakdown most rapidly. In your case, if you had some weeds/woody plants you wanted to kill that have leaves on, spraying the leaves with this rinsate would be appropriate as it will be much diluted. Yes, reusable chemical resistant gloves (neoprene is listed as appropriate PPE on the label) can simply be rinsed as you are rinsing the container and left to dry. Leaving them in the sun will also help breakdown the chemical bonds of the herbicide. I hope this helps.
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Thanks for the prompt reply. It is still a bit of a challenge going from whatever brand is locally available, and its label, to the information in these really great videos. The Crossbow I used says 16.5% triclopyr BEE which I think maps to the "20% triclopyr ester" in the pinned comment above. And I can ignore the difference of 3.5% and just trust the concentration and dilution on the label. After reading the label a 3rd time, and looking specifically for where you found the 4:100 ratio, I found it! This stuff takes (me) a few iterations to understand.
Good question. Dyes are sometimes only water or only oil soluble. Be sure to read the label for that info. Thanks for watching and doing what you can to kill this tree!
We've used the trichlopyr mixed with spent crankcase oil from the diesel tractor. It acts as a good binding agent, and it's easy to tell which stumps were treated after application with a paintbrush (wear gloves!).
Will using the hack and squirt method leach the herbicides into the ground after the roots die? There are a number of these trees on our property that need to be removed but I'm concerned about contaminating our well water. Can anybody weigh in on this?
They clog the AC/Heat coils and cabin filters if you have a newer car. I have one in the yard. A male. The female Poduces seed similar to a maple. It clogged the old car heater. I would take it down but the land lord is a tree hugger. I have a garage but I don't feel like getting up at 5 o'clock to drive it out of the garage for the wife. Then be there to put it back inside when I get home from work.
Thanks for the clear instructions to deal with Tree of Heaven. It's the perfect time of year to treat with herbicide. I'm having difficulty finding dye that works with oil. Do you have any suggestions on where I can find it?
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Thanks so much for this video! I'm buying a home that closes next month that has some tree of heaven saplings (maybe 1-2 years old?) on the other side of the fence; I'm going to kill them as instructed in the video since they're considered an invasive species here, but I'm not going to be able to start the work until early November when I move in. I know that's past the window for applying herbicides so I am not going to cut them down. There's no landscaping around these trees to protect as it's just an empty alley with these tree of life. They seemed too big to pull out, so I was thinking to try the basal bark method. If you have time to answer my questions, I was wondering… 1. Would applying the herbicide in November in Oregon cause the plant to react the same way as being cut (i.e. causing the plant to go into defense mode) or does that only happen in the spring? 2. Alternatively, would preventing the sun from reaching the plant via tarps be a good method until I can apply herbicides next summer? 3. Is there any other way to start killing the roots between this Novemeber and next summer? Thank you in advance!
Thank you for this comment and question! If you just have a few saplings, I'd personally not invest in the more expensive material required for basal bark. If the trees still have leaves on them when you move in, I'd recommend the cut-stump method with full strength (41% active ingredient). If the leaves are already off or falling, simply wait until next year. Hopefully, with these being that young, none are setting seed and as such, there is no harm at all in waiting for the next right season (late summer/early fall).
Is it mid to late summer (video) or late summer/early fall (here)? My guess is pre-'leaves turning color' but wanted to get a better feel for the timing. Thanks.
Triclopyr products need to be carefully applied, according to the label. One of the items on the label refers to not applying if the air temperature is above a certain amount. The reason for this is volatilization which could drift in the air and cause damage to other unintended targets.
@cestmoikim6514 Great question. My understanding: it's the oil based "carrier" that allows the herbicide to travel through the bark and get into the vascular system of the tree which then carries it to the root system and kills the roots which kills the tree. It has very little soil activity is not labeled for use in that way so application to soil/ground would be off label and therefore illegal.
Very useful , thank you. The neighbors' monster Ailanthus is right on the property line, an an area I'm trying to cultivate. They had a substantial stump left (5 ft. tall) and given how how the tree has long sent out suckers all over our large yard, I fear an explosion of suckering. Is there any reason other than financial, not to hire someone to grind the stump out?
Excellent question! You are not wrong in fearing an explosion of root sprouts (suckers) from the root system. There is a little hope in that if the tree was very mature, it may not respond with as many sprouts as I might otherwise expect. However, the option of grinding out the stump will not help with the suckering. The roots will still be in place and do not need to be attached to a stump to sprout. You have two options in this case. 1) just mow over the sprouts again and again and eventually the root system will wear out. This is going to be most effective if all the sprouts are repeatedly mowed (so your neighbor's side too). 2) Herbicides. Another advantage of the triclopyr type herbicides it that it's relatively ineffective on monocot type plants (such as grass). As such, you can spray the leaves of sprouts with triclopyr and have minimal damage (there will still be some) to the grass that is hit with overspray. Alternatively, you can cut each sprout and treat each little stump with herbicide. This could even be done with something as simple as a pill bottle with a piece of sponge tucked into the bottom which hold the herbicide. Cut the stem and push the upside down pill bottle on top of the stump and you've just applied the herbicide only to that cut surface. Feel free to contact me (Adam) at adowning@vt.edu if you'd like to discuss further.
We didn’t know this and had a huge tree (double stumps 20-24 inch diameter) cut last year. The root system is putting out shoots like crazy. Any suggestions?
This is also an issue for us. The shoots are very small in diameter, and there is a larger one that our neighbor let grow for a shade. Shade. I'm not sure how or if there's a way we can mitigate this without having to ask him to treat and kill his tree?
I remember from long ago that ailanthus only thrives in soils rich in lyme. It used to grow in ruins and among crushed stones; now it's suddenly everywhere?
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Thank you for this video. I have a very extensive problem sprout up over the last 2-3 years. This video makes me feel like I can get some control over the situation. Do I only need to apply one application? Or does it need multiple before the tree dies?
Thank you for writing Stacey. The success of a given treatment depends on all the factors... what product, timing, application method, etc. In my experience, the use triclopyr as a basal bark spray in the late summer is close to 100% effective with only one application. The efficacy is still very good but may be less with other application methods and if you use glyphosate instead of triclopyr. I hope this helps.
No, the trees are not dangerous to handle for most people. I have heard of some people being sensitive to the sawdust from it while running the chainsaw or a sawmill.
A "micro-version" of the basal spray method is one option for sure. Here are some other recommendations that may be better. 1) the cut-stump method may be better. Simply cut the stem with a pair of hand-pruners and then dab the "stump" with the product of your choosing (either mentioned in the video). Some people have cut a small piece of sponge and stuffed it into the bottom of the something like a pill bottle to hold a small amount of herbicide. This then can be "dabbed" onto the cut stump.
We cut down 2 larger trees before we knew that they would respond with root shoots. Now I am battling lots of small shoots and trees. I am cutting and dabbing with success but won during if I am cutting low enough. How close to the ground should I cut the stump? I figured if I do not cut too close, I can monitor regrowth, but if I don't cut low enough, I wonder if is the product as effective. I am using Stop-Out, stump and vine killer and it seems to be killing the stumps I am treating.
@barbaramclellan4122 good job taking on the pesky sprouts! As far as the stump height goes, it's not critical. Anywhere less than a foot off the ground out to be fine. From a search I did looking for the label of the product you are using, I see that while it does contain triclopyr, it's a very low concentration. I hope it works for you but I'd not be surprised if you see regrowth.
Late summer 2023 I did basal bark method and it showed promising results within weeks. Now in Spring 2024, many of those Ailanthus have leafed out. They are not as strong looking as the ones on neighboring properties, but they are surely alive. What do you suggest? Triclopyr basal method now? Wait until late summer to apply? Thanks in advance!
Bummer you are not seeing complete control. Somethings to double check: 1) appropriate herbicide (triclopyr ester), 2) mixed to appropriate concentration, 3) with appropriate oil-based carrier and 4) applied to a sufficient amount of plant... bottom 12 to 18", all the way around, not quite to the point of run off. Also the root collar, if exposed, should be sprayed. Now, to answer your question of timing, I would wait until a little later in the growing season.
What if I'm just trying to get rid of the smaller root/shoot system? The Large tree itself provides shade for my garden, but it's the Webby small root system that's spread all over my garden that I want to get rid of... It inhibits my garden growth and Sucks up Alot of the water. It's small root system is Everywhere!in small areas I'm gardening I've dug up and Sifted the soil just to get rid of the Countless small roots.. What can I do to get rid of those small Webby roots?
Great video - thank you. What happens to the dead standing tree after the basal bark treatment? Does it slowly shrink back into the ground inch-by-inch, like in quicksand until it disappears under the earth? Or does it evaporate and blow away like dust in the wind? Do insects and small woodland creatures come in and disassemble it and safely carry it away in bite-sized pieces? Does it fold and stack itself up in a neat pile? Does in implode and collapse in on itself? Or deflate like a balloon, to be easily picked up and thrown away in a trash can? LOL.
We had one recently cut down in our yard. A large one. It was not immediately treated. How can I get rid of the many roots, suckers and sprouts in my yard? It is late June.
Yeah... bummer. I would suggest letting them grow until late summer and then treating each one with one of the methods shown in the video. Given that it's a yard tree and I suspect most of your sprouts are also in the yard, I might go for the cut stump method. The stumps will be small but hopefully with treating them all you will get enough product into the existing root system to kill it for good. You may need to do the same next year but I predict much fewer, if any sprouts, next year.
@@adrianulibarri5935 I bought a bottle of Hi-Yield brand 61.8% Triclopyr Ester from DoMyOwn for $26 to try on some trees. Plan to use in a spray bottle with hack and squirt method. See how it goes.
There are many generics out there..see label to be sure active ingredient is triclopyr ester (percentage AI will vary)...20-25% recommended. Pathfinder II is a ready to use formulation so spray right out of the jug. the Garlon 4 is a concentrate (mix 20% with 80% oil so do the math to compare price)..good luck!
I have alot of shoots on my lawn now and seven large trees, 50 ft tall. Should i focus on large trees with hack and squirt or the small shoots to kill the root system?
Personally I would focus on the large trees first by whatever application method you prefer. Some of the smaller trees may indeed be root sprouts. If so, these will also die when the tree roots they are sprouted from die. Other small trees you have may be seedlings and will need treated individually. The other benefit of focusing on the larger trees first is to reduce the amount of seed if any of the trees are seedbearing females
I'm very interested in the basal bark spray method. I wonder if, to save money, you could use Triclopyr Amine (instead of the Esther) with horticultural oil and an emulsifier to mix the two? Think that might work?
The same options as described in the video for Tree of Heaven apply to Autumn Olive and, assuming correct application, will not kill other species such as Oak and Hickory
According to the best available testing methods, properly applied products do not result in toxic soils. This resource may be of interest. vtpp.ento.vt.edu/content/dam/vtpp_ento_vt_edu/publications/GlyphosateQ_ASheet.pdf
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 very kind of you to provide this information, however I choose not to use this substance in my garden. Would coper sulfate injected under bark work you think?
@@saintmaxmedia2423 We are not familar with a product that uses coper sulfate as an herbicide for woody plants. If you have something that you are considering using, just read the label and see if it is 1) legal to use in the way you wish and 2) indicates efficacy for the control you seek. This may also be informative: npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cuso4gen.html#:~:text=Copper%20sulfate%20is%20an%20inorganic,environment%2C%20foods%2C%20and%20water.
@jackapache, for some reason the ester formulation is not labeled for application by hack-n-squirt. However, mixing this ester based product with an oil, such as diesel fuel, can be applied as basal bark with is probably my favorite application method. Alternatively, you can find the triclopyr amine for purchase online quite easily.
Had this tree crush my sewer line. My contractor said tree root wider than the tree, and he cut out with chain saw. Cut tree down and burnt in my wood stove for four years of free heat.
How are you touching it with your bare hands??? I had no idea what all the weeds were growing in the flowerbeds of a house I moved into last year, and at some point came across one of these horrible cultivars. For weeks I had a rash that, I don't think there are really words to explain it. I've had poison ivy a lot in my life, and have never had a problem restraining from scratching even without calamine lotion. This thing though...by week two of waking up every two hours scratching til I was bleeding and crying, I went to the doctor and was prescribed steroids and a topical cream. A week later I was prescribed a stronger dose of both, and it was a nightmare. I used icy hot on the worst parts followed by zinc, and wrapped it so that I could sleep. All told it was around two months, and it was all over my arms, legs, stomach, and a little on my face for nearly two months.
@SunlessComa4614 Wow, I have heard that some folks are rather sensitive to this plant, especially the saw-dust if cutting firewood, for example. Thankfully, while I'm sensitive to poison-ivy, tree of heaven doesn't get me.
I keep honeybees on my 90 acres and don't use chemicals. But I'm tempted to use this more targeted spray method (vs wild random spraying). Do you think it's safe for them. Thanks
I (Adam Downing) also keep a few bees. Anecdotally, I've not experienced any issue. According to the National Pesticide Information Center, "Triclopyr is practically non-toxic to bees." See: npic.orst.edu/factsheets/triclopyrgen.html#:~:text=Triclopyr%20is%20practically%20non%2Dtoxic%20to%20bees. As well, our Virginia Tech Pest Management Guide repeats this and give some practical guidance for protecting honey bees, starting on page 1-31. npic.orst.edu/factsheets/triclopyrgen.html#:~:text=Triclopyr%20is%20practically%20non%2Dtoxic%20to%20bees. Furthermore, I've heard some bee keepers say that honey produced in areas where there is much tree of heaven has an unpleasant flavor, so there is another reason to control the plant, at least the female trees.
If you want to cut down trees after they have been treated, yes, you should wait until some time has passed before cutting. About 3 weeks. However, as far as the "deadness" of the tree goes, there is no need to cut it down. These trees fall apart pretty quickly once they are dead and I usually leave them standing to provide a bit of "snag habitat" for critters.
So I'm in the process of selling my house. I recently found Tree of Heaven growing in my bathroom wall. Some of it was sticking out of the light fixture and then found it in the attic going up a pipe in the bathroom wall. How do I get rid of it in my house? Can I still use round up? Would it be safe to use in the house? I cannot afford to cut holes in the wall. I have 3 children and one is a baby.
@rufusvalentino I'm sorry this is likely too late to help you but hopefully it will help someone else. Yes, you can use glyphosate (such as roundup or another brand) in the situation you describe. Glyphosate comes in many different concentrations, some of which are concentrated enough to apply as cut-stump.
A local farm supply store such as Tractor Supply or a farmer's co-op may carry, or be able to obtain if they don't have it on the shelf. It's also quite easy to purchase online through various vendors such as Forestry Suppliers or Forestry Distributing.
Cutting the roots will rarely, very rarely, cause this or any vigorous broad-leaved tree to die. In nearly every case, if you were to saw the roots off the tree and remove the tree, you will have many, very many, root sprouts.
I have a large mature ailanthus behind my property line. We get many immature saplings that grow along our fence line. I also get them in my backyard in my garden area from roots and seeds. I've sprayed those in the past with various brush killers but am wondering about the persistence of some these herbicides such as the tricylopyr based sprays. I pull as many of the small ones I can. Between these and bindweed and other weeds, it is a constant battle. I may just have to cover the entire area in geotextile fabric and install raised beds.😢
Raised beds will make it easier to stay on top of weeds. You're still likely to get some seed land and germinate in these beds but if the soil is loose and you notice early, you may be able to easily pull them by hand.
@damalgr the concentration varied depends on the application method. For example, foliar applications will generally be more diluted that cut-stump or hack-n-squirt.
That's a great question and I don't have a solid answer for you. I've personally let diluted material sit for a couple weeks and have not noticed a loss of efficacy. This is anecdotal. It's certainly best to use it as quickly as possible and certainly bad to store it in a sprayer. If it has to be stored, put in in a container and clearly mark it. Best of all is to mix only as much as you can use and use it, clean stuff up and repeat next time. But I get it, life happens.
@katkameo6413 I'm not sure what the exact question is but I'm guess the question is how long does it take for the root system to die if the stump is treated properly following tree felling. Generally speaking, herbicide activity is evident in about 2 weeks. It does depend somewhat on the product being used
@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Yes that was it! I ended up cutting the 1 inch diameter trunks then drenching each cut directly with Triclopyr, the solution percentages you recommended. Awful stuff! I did the same with 2 stands of Japanese knotweed. Crossing my fingers. Thank you for your help 🙏
@ryangutmann6886 triclopry products of higher concentrations can be found online or in brick and mortar stores that cater to farmers/landowners such as farm co-ops. Please note that full strength triclopyr generally refers to a concentration of around 60% active ingredient (triclopyr ester) or 44% active ingredient (triclopyr amine). This is then mixed to a certain concentration or used "full strength" depending on the application method (foliar, cut stump, etc.).
With Tree of Heaven, either will work equally well. For that size of a tree, other species are likely to have thicker bark and the basal bark spray will not be as effective.
No, not both. I would recommend the basal bark spray. In my experience this works best. Thankfully, Ailanthus (TOH) maintains a thin bark even when large and as such the basal bark spray can work on this tree even when large. I've successfully killed quite a few giant TOH this way.
Yes. The products mentioned, if applied correctly, are safe to use near (not on) water. The product labels should be consulted to verify use near water.
It’s actually impossible to get rid of the lantern fly at this point removing these trees will actually cause them to eat crops. These trees prob serve as a buffer. If you don’t cut it , it doesn’t spread as much. It’s not a huge deal as the entire east coast is covered in vines and Cutzu it’s fine lol
@Hospehlosheph. Unless there is some data that you know of that I don't, I believe the research and most anecdotal data suggests otherwise. These trees are a preferred host and there is some evidence that while SLF doesn't need Tree of Heaven (TOH) to live and reproduce, their fitness may be reduced where they don't have access to TOH. Here is one paper that explored this: www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-95376-x
I live in the desert southwest. Trees are hard to grow and are rather sparse. I’ve had a few “Trees of Heaven” growing in my yard with zero problem for over 25 years. I’ve never seen any bugs on them or have I ever smelled anything bad about them. Since we don’t have a lot of vegetation here, except for desert landscape, the Trees of Heaven look like little palm trees growing here in the desert. I’m guessing that these trees are problematic where there is dense growth (?!)…Not sure I get the bad rap about these trees.
The trees get a bad rap because they are non-native and invasive and are a negative in the ecosystem as native fauna basically find little use of the species and native flora can't compete. I can appreciate that in your situation, it's something green. You might enjoy reading "A Tree that Grows in Brooklyn" that uses this tree as a symbol of overcoming adversity.
The Spotted Lantern Flys seem to like Silver Maples about as much as the tree of heaven, so don't waste too much of your time going after those trees, as your efforts will only redirect some of those pests.
They will indeed. Unfortunately, a goat browsed tree is the same as a cut tree... it will come back. Goats, however, are generally more persistent than humans and after repeated browsing can have positive effect.
What you do not know round up was tested and has Venom in it. Alot of Venom and what does Venom do Venom does what it always does. It has snake and scopion Venoms in it. If it gets into your food and water etc,I am not trying to act wise, but Dr. Bryan Ardis wife was tested and had scorpian in her . She may of got it from grocery store food, however , round up was tested. Herbicides have Venoms. I have a print out on argiculture and Venom. This is whats making people sick we are getting ill. I appreciate your information on this video but i decided to include whats in lab reports according to Dr. Ardis.
Dr Ardis is not accurate and is lying. Look into him, he's a fraud. Venom cannot hurt you in your water and food. This is a scam, fear mongering, and not true. However, I would never use roundup or any other toxic herbicide. This is ludicrous and a big part of what's wrong today.
Aren't these trees evergreen? I had one cut down in the back yard and it was green year round. Not i have about 30 sprigs coming up! If its evergreen then any time should be good to kill.
Thanks for the question. Tree of Heaven is not evergreen. They lose their leaves every fall. Not sure what you have in your yard, but feel free to e-mail me a photo for identification. jgagnon@vt.edu
Because Tree of Heaven (TOH) is an invasive, it spreads readily and takes over in spaces where beneficial, native plants would otherwise be. The Spotted Lanternfly LOVES TOH and they thrive on it, allowing them to reproduce in greater numbers. If we remove TOH, then they hopefully cannot reproduce as readily and will spread more slowly or in smaller numbers.
@@sydneyhaney4391 I planted one for the bees, the medicinal value and the nitrogen fixing. It also has desirable wood for woodworking. Keep it healthy and insects won’t bother it.
@gsmscrazycanuck9814 please take care that it does not spread-- deadheading it before seeds form may be helpful. But they spread like crazy by root suckering and seeds. If you want to benefit pollinators, consider planting native plants, that will be better than planting invasive trees.
Key points
I. Ailanthus: Non-native invasive introduced in 1784 in Philadelphia, PA
II. Chemical control:
Timing: mid to late summer
Chemical options: Glyphosate or Triclopyr (amine or ester)
Application methods:
-Foliar
glyphosate &/or 2%
triclopyr @ 1.5 - 2% concentration
-Cut-stump
triclopyr amine 100% or ester 20%
-Hack and squirt
Triclopyr amine @ 100%
Triclopyr ester @ 20%
-Basal bark
Triclopyr ester @ 20%
III. What next?
-Monitor for follow-up treatment
-Favor or plant natives to occupy the space
- Dead trees:
Leave standing or lying for wildlife
Use for firewood (cut and stack covered to dry)
This was an awesome video. Thank you SO much! Saving this one and subscribed.
Wow! An awesome, useful video as well as a printed summary. You all rock! When: Could someone tell me when it's best to do basal bark treatment--when it hasn't rained for a while? Should I wait until things dry up after a rain? Do not do it before a rain or it will wash off the bark, correct?
@@cestmoikim6514 Sorry for the delay in responding to this good question. The overall best time of year for a basal bark spray is late summer to early fall. In relation to rain, do not apply right before it's to rain and not on wet bark (immediately following a rain).
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 How long after the tree dies is it safe to cut and remove? Do you recommend multiple treatments before doing this?
I also have two trees that were cut prior to me moving here that continue to sprout more. Would the last method work if I spray the stumps even though they don’t have leaves?
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Triclopyr seems to not be sold or allowed to be sold in VA…where could this product be found?
When he says to treat immediately, he means immediately. The veins in the wood will collapse very, very quickly when exposed to air. Those veins are only designed to work when in water, the slightest amount of drying the microscopic structure fails.
In the basal bark method, he's right in saying you **have** to use the triclopyr ester. "ester" basically means that it is chemically treated so it behaves like a natural oil. This helps it to get past certain cellular structures and larger anatomies that water won't penetrate well. Especially oily, waxy or resinous tissues, but other things too. Bark, especially the outer layers, tend to have some oil, wax or resin for waterproofing, just like human skin does. This can be literally a few molecules thick layer, but that's enough to block water. Or water based pesticides.
Can I use the esther for hack and squirt? It’s the only thing I can find in my local store
@jackapache. For some reason the ester formulations are not labeled for application by hack-n-squirt. But, if you have this and it's high-enough concentration and mixed with the right carrier (an oil of some type) it can be applied as a basal bark treatment.
This is a very useful video, thank you for it. I don't know how most of us ever managed without RUclips.
Came across this video by accident but I am glad I did. I have these trees in King George, VA. Thanks for showing me how to get rid of them.
One of the best presentations I've seen on this subject. One thing I would suggest. Get rid of the spray bottle for hack and squirt and buy a couple of 500 ml plastic bottles that are used in chem labs etc, i.e. a squeeze bottle with a little plastic squirt tube coming off of it at an angle. I think I got 2 on-line for less than $10. You won't have any more wasted chemical running down the side of the tree from your hacks once you get the hang of how hard to squeeze the bottle. Another tip with those bottles, unscrew the lids a bit after use to release pressure, or empty them. Sometimes they seem to siphon out some of the fluid on their own, maybe in response to atmospheric pressure changes, not sure.
Good option John. Thank you.
This is great! those trees just want to take over the native habitat
Outstanding presentation! Great step by step instructions of practical benefit. Thanks much.
Great video! Best wishes for all your endeavors!
Thank you for walking me through this!
Thank you for this information! We had a home built where it’s overgrown with these trees and they’re such a problem. They’re sprouting up everywhere ha dive been digging up their roots pulling much as I can.
Sounds like it would be a good idea to invest in these chemicals.
Clear presentation
I live in central VA and these things are cropping up everywhere along the sides of roads, streets and backyards. I'm fighting them on my own and my family's properties, sadly I can't get anyone else involved so this video was very helpful and hopeful about the product in testing. I really hope the VA Dept of Forestry gets involved in controlling this menace to our woodlands. I've been watching for the spotted lanternfly and haven't seen any yet, thank goodness. Still see a few stinkbugs every year but those have lessened for some reason.
There is a strong resemblence in leaf structure between this and our native Staghorn Sumac, and it's also somewhat similar to Ash, Hickory and Black Walnut. Best way to tell ToH and Sumac apart if not by the horrible smell is by the flowers/fruits. ToH flowers are a brownish-orange samaras, clusters of winged fruits, they look a little "frilly". The native Sumac seedheads are a roughly elongated conical shape (horn) that are supported by the stem, starting off green then turning to orange-red.
Good job of presenting the options.
They are all over the Blue Ridge Parkway obstructing the beautiful landscape.
I have 200 acres in SW Virginia with significant infestations of ailanthus. I have found that simply girdling mature trees with a draw knife is very effective and cheap. Yes they ultimately fall, and yes, the frequently have stump sprouts, but the sprouts are weak and unhealthy, breaking off easily. When you kill the mature ailanthus, you release the native hickories, oaks, etc and they will shade out the regrowth of the ailanthus. I also think that ailanthus pathogens are encouraged by the killing of mature trees. You do have to be a bit patient for this to work.
Thank you for this comment. I'm happy to hear you are "attacking" your ailanthus. In general, when hardwood trees are cut, they sprout. The main exceptions to this would be on very mature trees or trees that have been repeatedly cut and sprout. Eventually the root system wears out to the point of not having the reserves to resprout. This, however, is after very many years, decades if not centuries.
Good stuff! thank you for sharing. off to remove my trees of heaven and autumn olives....
Any updates???
Thank you! Best video on the subject!
Help to take saws all to bark for addition herbicide uptake. Also can cut concave spot on top of trunk or rubber band a bag at top to hold small pool herbicide that should minimize wound healing due to limited oxygen exposure under herbicide puddle.
Thank you for this.
Very clear instructions.
I've seen Ailanthus trees continue to grow for almost a year from the severed trunk of a cut tree. Some foresters have reported contact dermaititis and even more acute allergy symptoms after contact with the sap. We have tried to find a parasitic or saprophytic fungus which might infect them, so far without any remarkable success. The Veracyllium prospect sounds interssting.
Not a forester, just a normie with a resistance to poison ivy that was almost hospitalized after handling this evil thing.
Just imagine how you would feel if you spent years building up a food forest with tons of different fruit trees and berry bushes and stuff and then you start getting these bastards growing everywhere you can't just dig them out because your trees are intertwined with the roots.
Supposedly if you use the Craig Harper Cocktail you shouldn't have to worry about killing root-intertwined trees. ruclips.net/video/Amv_T3YGDhY/видео.html Not sure if the fruit from the trees would be safe to eat, though.
Great job I’m right outside of Pittsburgh and have a massive tree maybe 100+ feet tall by my house on a hill infested with lantern flys.
ruclips.net/user/shortsq6sWkIzg1kM?feature=shared
I do as well, 100 miles east of Pittsburgh, my tree isn’t quite that big , probably 40 feet but it’s completely covered in lantern flies. It overhangs my driveway and I can’t even park under it as something is dripping from it, I don’t know if it’s from the tree or the lantern flies, either way I can’t take it anymore, I’m going to try this to kill the tree and try to take it down when it and the bugs are dead and before they hatch more next year.
I have a mature tree of heaven in my backyard that is about 60 ft tall and close to fences, houses, and a garage. I don't know much about plants and thought it was just a nice big tree when i bought the house. It still sends active shoots all summer long that I pull. Since it's winter now, would you recommend I wait until summer to get rid of it with a herbicide and then removal?
Is the cut stump method effective in winter? How long can I wait after applying the herbicide to grind the stump?
Good questions. Stump treatment in winter is not ideal. I'd recommend waiting for late summer. You want to get it treated just before the leaves would start turning in your area. After removal and stump treatment (must be done right after cutting) then you can safely grind out the stump in about a month.
It's important to only pull shoots during winter when you can see them. Makimg sure ground is wet makes pulling much easier. If it is resistant, then break the sapling and dab at the break.
This tree is extremely offensive and defensive.
During spring and early summer the sap runs up the trunk, providing the leaves with nutrients from stored in the roots. By mid summer, the sap starts to run down the trunk and continues until fall. That's why you must treat using the hack and squirt method from mid July to September... Kill the roots!
When you hack and shoot leave about 2 inches between each hack so that the sap continues to run down. If you don't the tree will send enzymes down to warn the roots of the trauma, and signal the production of thousands of new shoots in order to survive.
The tree also has the ability to kill surrounding trees with these enzymes.
Also the best method is the hack and squirt. The following summer you will see a sparsity of leaves near the top of the tree. It may take a year or 2-3 before the tree is completely dead. If not repeat this procedure.
Be patient!
I have one close to our house and I’m worried about the roots damaging the foundation. We are having it cut down and I’m so glad I saw your video so I can make sure to treat it right when it’s cut down! With the cut and treat method, how will I know when the roots are dead and it was successful? Will I ever be able to remove what’s ended ground? For reference, it has grown to about 33 feet.
Can you please provide a link to the products
By "products" do you mean the chemical products used? If so, we are reluctant to send a link to one point of sale option when there are many. Glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup and for which there are many brands and generic brands available) is readily available at nearly any place that sells herbicides. Look for at least 41% concentrate if you want to use it for cut-stump or hack-n-squirt applications. And if you want larger containers than you might find at a "Big box" home improvement store, local farm/Ag supply retail stores will have it.
The triclopyr products may be slightly more challenging. I have not found them in sufficient concentrations at the big-box type places. I have found them, some times, at a local Ag Co-op or Farm Supply.
Additionally, all of these can be purchased readily online. Ben Meadows and Forestry Suppliers are two options for online in addition to Amazon. I hope this helps. If not, please say so and I'll take another swipe.
what happens after treating Aitlanthus with Hack + Squirt, what happens to the tree? Does it shrivel and die? or will it fall over? I have some in my backyard and want to understand the likelihood of it falling over after treatment
Hi Connor, thanks for the question. The trees will stay standing and eventually die after hack and squirt. I would not recommend having standing dead trees next to a house, barn, garage, etc. They will be actively decaying and will eventually fall over (and may have branches fall off). If you have tree of heaven near your house, your best course of action is to hire someone to cut them, then treat the cut stumps with herbicide. Or if you are experienced with a chainsaw, you may cut them yourself.
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 thanks! that was my hunch
Im a tree climbing arborist and have cut down a few huge ones. Its always scary as hell cuz they are so weak and brittle u cant trust it not to break and kill you.
Safety glasses is paramount in the use of herbicides.
It's not a bad idea for sure to use safety glasses not matter the product. Importantly, the label is the law and as such, not all labels required the use of eye protection.
I used crossbow on autumn olives. Squirted freshly cut stems. I used the Max concentration from label: 1 1/3 oz per quart of water. (Too weak?) Can you talk about clean up and reuse of the plastic squirt bottle? Water soluble? Rinse thoroughly and reuse? How long does it stay active. I chose reusable neoprene gloves. If they dry and sit for a couple days are they harmless?
Crossbow Mix: 16.5% tricolpyr BEE, 34.4% 2,4-dichlorophenoxy acetic acid BEE, 49% other ingredients
As for the Crossbow... the portion of label www.cdms.net/ldat/ld02H006.pdf that addresses "cut-stump" (along with "basal bark") applications specifies to mix the product in diesel or kerosene in a 4 to 100 ratio. So, if I've done the math right, this would be 1 oz of product to 3 cups of an appropriate basal oil (such as diesel). The dilution you made up is a bit weak but may still be somewhat effective. You'll soon know! Also, you mixed with water. This label specifies water for foliar applications but not for cut-stump. I'm not sure why this is but I would go with the oil based mixture as any runoff of the stump onto the stem will also penetrate the bark and have some efficacy.
As far as gloves and containers... The general recommendation is triple rinse and remember to run the rinsate through the system (squirt bottle pump) to also rinse the tubing and such. Ideally, the rinsate should be applied on the landscape as you would apply the product. In this way, it will breakdown most rapidly. In your case, if you had some weeds/woody plants you wanted to kill that have leaves on, spraying the leaves with this rinsate would be appropriate as it will be much diluted.
Yes, reusable chemical resistant gloves (neoprene is listed as appropriate PPE on the label) can simply be rinsed as you are rinsing the container and left to dry. Leaving them in the sun will also help breakdown the chemical bonds of the herbicide.
I hope this helps.
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Thanks for the prompt reply. It is still a bit of a challenge going from whatever brand is locally available, and its label, to the information in these really great videos. The Crossbow I used says 16.5% triclopyr BEE which I think maps to the "20% triclopyr ester" in the pinned comment above. And I can ignore the difference of 3.5% and just trust the concentration and dilution on the label. After reading the label a 3rd time, and looking specifically for where you found the 4:100 ratio, I found it! This stuff takes (me) a few iterations to understand.
@@wkimzey me too. Don't feel bad. Good job persisting!
Thank you!
is the dye that you use water soluble? if so, will this still work for the triclopyr ester with diesel application? thanks for the great video!
Good question. Dyes are sometimes only water or only oil soluble. Be sure to read the label for that info. Thanks for watching and doing what you can to kill this tree!
We've used the trichlopyr mixed with spent crankcase oil from the diesel tractor. It acts as a good binding agent, and it's easy to tell which stumps were treated after application with a paintbrush (wear gloves!).
Will using the hack and squirt method leach the herbicides into the ground after the roots die? There are a number of these trees on our property that need to be removed but I'm concerned about contaminating our well water. Can anybody weigh in on this?
Somethings gotta kill ya
They clog the AC/Heat coils and cabin filters if you have a newer car. I have one in the yard. A male. The female Poduces seed similar to a maple. It clogged the old car heater.
I would take it down but the land lord is a tree hugger.
I have a garage but I don't feel like getting up at 5 o'clock to drive it out of the garage for the wife. Then be there to put it back inside when I get home from work.
Thanks for the clear instructions to deal with Tree of Heaven. It's the perfect time of year to treat with herbicide. I'm having difficulty finding dye that works with oil. Do you have any suggestions on where I can find it?
hi there....I have found blue to be easiest to see...have used this dye successfully but you may can also find it on amazon or some farm supply stores. r.search.yahoo.com/rdclks/dWU9N3Y5dnN1cGpkM3BxbCZ1dD0xNzI1MDMyMjc3NjM0JnVvPTgxNjM4Nzg0MzU5MDYzMSZsdD0yJnM9MSZlcz1wR1JKaVNZYzdGdTFRMnA4NmIxWXhPNlh3aTJyQnBUdkFxcE5SOW01NmpEUkZkdkZuWVpRWGdSUGI2dGYxbURtNVMxbjZFWklXWkNWdXctLQ--/RV=2/RE=1727624278/RO=14/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.bing.com%2faclick%3fld%3de82ZKcsHWTaSSDYrw_mrfuuzVUCUz0aub15yEb_Jv9cmnxh4YquAGnSPWD-sC6TBXYpkFAl8tJsFewNrPFjazGK4ILdUBT0VCHwHezPPrrwXEhqa3b16mWgolDTVmWNb9y2MZLrZhpOF6XZRICdnyBRcrWmkafYydVeN1miaqM9dJf0OtyfLD4zQAYQKnH-o-i1Df8iQ%26u%3daHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZ3d3cuZm9yZXN0cnktc3VwcGxpZXJzLmNvbSUyZnByb2R1Y3RfcGFnZXMlMmZWaWV3aXRlbS5hc3AlM2ZpdGVtJTNkOTI5OTUlMjZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtJTNkY3BjJTI2bXNjbGtpZCUzZDQ3NWUzNDIxZWJkZDE0NWRjYjM3NTJmMDBjODg0ZmFiJTI2dXRtX3NvdXJjZSUzZGJpbmclMjZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtJTNkY3BjJTI2dXRtX2NhbXBhaWduJTNkTEEucyUyNTIwLSUyNTIwU2hvcHBpbmclMjUyMC0lMjUyMEFscGhhJTI1MjAoQnJhbmRlZCklMjZ1dG1fdGVybSUzZDQ1ODUyMzgzNjg0NjAwNjElMjZ1dG1fY29udGVudCUzZEFsbCUyNTIwUHJvZHVjdHM%26rlid%3d475e3421ebdd145dcb3752f00c884fab/RK=2/RS=RryYSguLHGBpi6609JdUi75UJas-;_ylt=AwrFCRNV59Fm0JUMqEYPxQt.;_ylu=Y29sbwNiZjEEcG9zAy0zBHZ0aWQD;_ylc=X3IDMgRydAMw?IG=0ac50913dc9a4657ba0000000051fc0b
Thanks so much for this video! I'm buying a home that closes next month that has some tree of heaven saplings (maybe 1-2 years old?) on the other side of the fence; I'm going to kill them as instructed in the video since they're considered an invasive species here, but I'm not going to be able to start the work until early November when I move in. I know that's past the window for applying herbicides so I am not going to cut them down. There's no landscaping around these trees to protect as it's just an empty alley with these tree of life. They seemed too big to pull out, so I was thinking to try the basal bark method. If you have time to answer my questions, I was wondering…
1. Would applying the herbicide in November in Oregon cause the plant to react the same way as being cut (i.e. causing the plant to go into defense mode) or does that only happen in the spring?
2. Alternatively, would preventing the sun from reaching the plant via tarps be a good method until I can apply herbicides next summer?
3. Is there any other way to start killing the roots between this Novemeber and next summer?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you for this comment and question! If you just have a few saplings, I'd personally not invest in the more expensive material required for basal bark. If the trees still have leaves on them when you move in, I'd recommend the cut-stump method with full strength (41% active ingredient). If the leaves are already off or falling, simply wait until next year. Hopefully, with these being that young, none are setting seed and as such, there is no harm at all in waiting for the next right season (late summer/early fall).
Awesome, this is super helpful! And thanks so much for the fast reply! ✨
Is it mid to late summer (video) or late summer/early fall (here)? My guess is pre-'leaves turning color' but wanted to get a better feel for the timing. Thanks.
how is Triclopyr ester dangerous to the garden surrounding the tree to which it will be applied? Eva
Triclopyr products need to be carefully applied, according to the label. One of the items on the label refers to not applying if the air temperature is above a certain amount. The reason for this is volatilization which could drift in the air and cause damage to other unintended targets.
How does spraying the base of the tree kill it so effectively? Does the herbicide run down the tree and go into the ground? Can you spray the ground?
@cestmoikim6514 Great question. My understanding: it's the oil based "carrier" that allows the herbicide to travel through the bark and get into the vascular system of the tree which then carries it to the root system and kills the roots which kills the tree. It has very little soil activity is not labeled for use in that way so application to soil/ground would be off label and therefore illegal.
Very useful , thank you. The neighbors' monster Ailanthus is right on the property line, an an area I'm trying to cultivate. They had a substantial stump left (5 ft. tall) and given how how the tree has long sent out suckers all over our large yard, I fear an explosion of suckering. Is there any reason other than financial, not to hire someone to grind the stump out?
Excellent question! You are not wrong in fearing an explosion of root sprouts (suckers) from the root system. There is a little hope in that if the tree was very mature, it may not respond with as many sprouts as I might otherwise expect. However, the option of grinding out the stump will not help with the suckering. The roots will still be in place and do not need to be attached to a stump to sprout. You have two options in this case. 1) just mow over the sprouts again and again and eventually the root system will wear out. This is going to be most effective if all the sprouts are repeatedly mowed (so your neighbor's side too). 2) Herbicides. Another advantage of the triclopyr type herbicides it that it's relatively ineffective on monocot type plants (such as grass). As such, you can spray the leaves of sprouts with triclopyr and have minimal damage (there will still be some) to the grass that is hit with overspray. Alternatively, you can cut each sprout and treat each little stump with herbicide. This could even be done with something as simple as a pill bottle with a piece of sponge tucked into the bottom which hold the herbicide. Cut the stem and push the upside down pill bottle on top of the stump and you've just applied the herbicide only to that cut surface. Feel free to contact me (Adam) at adowning@vt.edu if you'd like to discuss further.
We didn’t know this and had a huge tree (double stumps 20-24 inch diameter) cut last year. The root system is putting out shoots like crazy. Any suggestions?
This is also an issue for us. The shoots are very small in diameter, and there is a larger one that our neighbor let grow for a shade. Shade. I'm not sure how or if there's a way we can mitigate this without having to ask him to treat and kill his tree?
I remember from long ago that ailanthus only thrives in soils rich in lyme. It used to grow in ruins and among crushed stones; now it's suddenly everywhere?
It's horrible
My soil is very acidic and we use lime to raise the alkalinity. We have plenty of TOH, so it definitely thrives in acidic soils.
Thank you for this great video. What type of die do you use. I know tablet or liquid but I’m lost .. any brand please or recomendación. Many thanks!
hi there....I have found blue to be easiest to see...have used this dye successfully but you may can also find it on amazon or some farm supply stores. r.search.yahoo.com/rdclks/dWU9N3Y5dnN1cGpkM3BxbCZ1dD0xNzI1MDMyMjc3NjM0JnVvPTgxNjM4Nzg0MzU5MDYzMSZsdD0yJnM9MSZlcz1wR1JKaVNZYzdGdTFRMnA4NmIxWXhPNlh3aTJyQnBUdkFxcE5SOW01NmpEUkZkdkZuWVpRWGdSUGI2dGYxbURtNVMxbjZFWklXWkNWdXctLQ--/RV=2/RE=1727624278/RO=14/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.bing.com%2faclick%3fld%3de82ZKcsHWTaSSDYrw_mrfuuzVUCUz0aub15yEb_Jv9cmnxh4YquAGnSPWD-sC6TBXYpkFAl8tJsFewNrPFjazGK4ILdUBT0VCHwHezPPrrwXEhqa3b16mWgolDTVmWNb9y2MZLrZhpOF6XZRICdnyBRcrWmkafYydVeN1miaqM9dJf0OtyfLD4zQAYQKnH-o-i1Df8iQ%26u%3daHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZ3d3cuZm9yZXN0cnktc3VwcGxpZXJzLmNvbSUyZnByb2R1Y3RfcGFnZXMlMmZWaWV3aXRlbS5hc3AlM2ZpdGVtJTNkOTI5OTUlMjZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtJTNkY3BjJTI2bXNjbGtpZCUzZDQ3NWUzNDIxZWJkZDE0NWRjYjM3NTJmMDBjODg0ZmFiJTI2dXRtX3NvdXJjZSUzZGJpbmclMjZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtJTNkY3BjJTI2dXRtX2NhbXBhaWduJTNkTEEucyUyNTIwLSUyNTIwU2hvcHBpbmclMjUyMC0lMjUyMEFscGhhJTI1MjAoQnJhbmRlZCklMjZ1dG1fdGVybSUzZDQ1ODUyMzgzNjg0NjAwNjElMjZ1dG1fY29udGVudCUzZEFsbCUyNTIwUHJvZHVjdHM%26rlid%3d475e3421ebdd145dcb3752f00c884fab/RK=2/RS=RryYSguLHGBpi6609JdUi75UJas-;_ylt=AwrFCRNV59Fm0JUMqEYPxQt.;_ylu=Y29sbwNiZjEEcG9zAy0zBHZ0aWQD;_ylc=X3IDMgRydAMw?IG=0ac50913dc9a4657ba0000000051fc0b
Thank you for this video. I have a very extensive problem sprout up over the last 2-3 years. This video makes me feel like I can get some control over the situation.
Do I only need to apply one application? Or does it need multiple before the tree dies?
Thank you for writing Stacey. The success of a given treatment depends on all the factors... what product, timing, application method, etc. In my experience, the use triclopyr as a basal bark spray in the late summer is close to 100% effective with only one application. The efficacy is still very good but may be less with other application methods and if you use glyphosate instead of triclopyr. I hope this helps.
I bought a home and had a tree on the property. Between the reproduction rate and bugs, I am ready to pull my hair out
In the same situation 😭
I was told these are extremely poisonous and not to handle them. Is that true?
No, the trees are not dangerous to handle for most people. I have heard of some people being sensitive to the sawdust from it while running the chainsaw or a sawmill.
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Young trees may get mistaken for Poison sumac (Toxicodendron vernix) with 7 to 13 leaflets.
All great info,but what about the seedlings that can't be pulled like a weed? Chop and squirt? Or, do a micro version of the basal spray method?
Do the basal spray, they probably aren’t seedlings but are actually offshoots in the root system if you can’t pull them out.
A "micro-version" of the basal spray method is one option for sure. Here are some other recommendations that may be better. 1) the cut-stump method may be better. Simply cut the stem with a pair of hand-pruners and then dab the "stump" with the product of your choosing (either mentioned in the video). Some people have cut a small piece of sponge and stuffed it into the bottom of the something like a pill bottle to hold a small amount of herbicide. This then can be "dabbed" onto the cut stump.
We cut down 2 larger trees before we knew that they would respond with root shoots. Now I am battling lots of small shoots and trees. I am cutting and dabbing with success but won during if I am cutting low enough. How close to the ground should I cut the stump? I figured if I do not cut too close, I can monitor regrowth, but if I don't cut low enough, I wonder if is the product as effective. I am using Stop-Out, stump and vine killer and it seems to be killing the stumps I am treating.
@barbaramclellan4122 good job taking on the pesky sprouts! As far as the stump height goes, it's not critical. Anywhere less than a foot off the ground out to be fine. From a search I did looking for the label of the product you are using, I see that while it does contain triclopyr, it's a very low concentration. I hope it works for you but I'd not be surprised if you see regrowth.
Late summer 2023 I did basal bark method and it showed promising results within weeks. Now in Spring 2024, many of those Ailanthus have leafed out. They are not as strong looking as the ones on neighboring properties, but they are surely alive. What do you suggest? Triclopyr basal method now? Wait until late summer to apply? Thanks in advance!
Bummer you are not seeing complete control. Somethings to double check: 1) appropriate herbicide (triclopyr ester), 2) mixed to appropriate concentration, 3) with appropriate oil-based carrier and 4) applied to a sufficient amount of plant... bottom 12 to 18", all the way around, not quite to the point of run off. Also the root collar, if exposed, should be sprayed.
Now, to answer your question of timing, I would wait until a little later in the growing season.
What if I'm just trying to get rid of the smaller root/shoot system? The Large tree itself provides shade for my garden, but it's the Webby small root system that's spread all over my garden that I want to get rid of... It inhibits my garden growth and Sucks up Alot of the water. It's small root system is Everywhere!in small areas I'm gardening I've dug up and Sifted the soil just to get rid of the Countless small roots.. What can I do to get rid of those small Webby roots?
If you get rid of the roots, you will get rid of the tree.... they are part and parcel. Consider planting something else to be a better shade tree.
Great video - thank you.
What happens to the dead standing tree after the basal bark treatment? Does it slowly shrink back into the ground inch-by-inch, like in quicksand until it disappears under the earth? Or does it evaporate and blow away like dust in the wind? Do insects and small woodland creatures come in and disassemble it and safely carry it away in bite-sized pieces? Does it fold and stack itself up in a neat pile? Does in implode and collapse in on itself? Or deflate like a balloon, to be easily picked up and thrown away in a trash can? LOL.
Yes.
A treated tree dies standing and starts falling apart within a year. It will fall over at some point and if in a natural area quickly decompose.
We had one recently cut down in our yard. A large one. It was not immediately treated. How can I get rid of the many roots, suckers and sprouts in my yard? It is late June.
Yeah... bummer. I would suggest letting them grow until late summer and then treating each one with one of the methods shown in the video. Given that it's a yard tree and I suspect most of your sprouts are also in the yard, I might go for the cut stump method. The stumps will be small but hopefully with treating them all you will get enough product into the existing root system to kill it for good. You may need to do the same next year but I predict much fewer, if any sprouts, next year.
Is there another Triclopyr Ester you recommend? The Garlon 4 only seems to be sold in a 2.5Gal size at $300!
I just paid $250 for a 2.5 gallon. It’s been worth it. I’ve Already noticed the effect on the trees already after 3 days.
@@adrianulibarri5935 I bought a bottle of Hi-Yield brand 61.8% Triclopyr Ester from DoMyOwn for $26 to try on some trees. Plan to use in a spray bottle with hack and squirt method. See how it goes.
There are many generics out there..see label to be sure active ingredient is triclopyr ester (percentage AI will vary)...20-25% recommended. Pathfinder II is a ready to use formulation so spray right out of the jug. the Garlon 4 is a concentrate (mix 20% with 80% oil so do the math to compare price)..good luck!
I have alot of shoots on my lawn now and seven large trees, 50 ft tall. Should i focus on large trees with hack and squirt or the small shoots to kill the root system?
Personally I would focus on the large trees first by whatever application method you prefer. Some of the smaller trees may indeed be root sprouts. If so, these will also die when the tree roots they are sprouted from die. Other small trees you have may be seedlings and will need treated individually. The other benefit of focusing on the larger trees first is to reduce the amount of seed if any of the trees are seedbearing females
Now my next door neighbor needs to spray the forest of stinky weed trees in his back yard. 😊
You are not alone - I hear this from many landowners. Share the video with them perhaps?
go rogue and don't use the dye.
I'm very interested in the basal bark spray method. I wonder if, to save money, you could use Triclopyr Amine (instead of the Esther) with horticultural oil and an emulsifier to mix the two? Think that might work?
I'm very sympathetic to trying to save money... but no, this won't work and furthermore it would be against the labeled use and would thus be illegal.
For a cut stump method on autumn olive, which chemical is best, that wouldn't be as likely to kill oaks and hickory near the area?
The same options as described in the video for Tree of Heaven apply to Autumn Olive and, assuming correct application, will not kill other species such as Oak and Hickory
glyphosate is toxic to soil, I need a method that will not poison my whole garden. What are my options? Eva
According to the best available testing methods, properly applied products do not result in toxic soils. This resource may be of interest. vtpp.ento.vt.edu/content/dam/vtpp_ento_vt_edu/publications/GlyphosateQ_ASheet.pdf
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 very kind of you to provide this information, however I choose not to use this substance in my garden. Would coper sulfate injected under bark work you think?
@@saintmaxmedia2423 We are not familar with a product that uses coper sulfate as an herbicide for woody plants. If you have something that you are considering using, just read the label and see if it is 1) legal to use in the way you wish and 2) indicates efficacy for the control you seek. This may also be informative: npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cuso4gen.html#:~:text=Copper%20sulfate%20is%20an%20inorganic,environment%2C%20foods%2C%20and%20water.
@@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 roger that
Can I use the esther for hack and squirt? I can only find esther in my local tractor supply. Thanks!
@jackapache, for some reason the ester formulation is not labeled for application by hack-n-squirt. However, mixing this ester based product with an oil, such as diesel fuel, can be applied as basal bark with is probably my favorite application method. Alternatively, you can find the triclopyr amine for purchase online quite easily.
Had this tree crush my sewer line. My contractor said tree root wider than the tree, and he cut out with chain saw. Cut tree down and burnt in my wood stove for four years of free heat.
How are you touching it with your bare hands??? I had no idea what all the weeds were growing in the flowerbeds of a house I moved into last year, and at some point came across one of these horrible cultivars. For weeks I had a rash that, I don't think there are really words to explain it. I've had poison ivy a lot in my life, and have never had a problem restraining from scratching even without calamine lotion. This thing though...by week two of waking up every two hours scratching til I was bleeding and crying, I went to the doctor and was prescribed steroids and a topical cream. A week later I was prescribed a stronger dose of both, and it was a nightmare. I used icy hot on the worst parts followed by zinc, and wrapped it so that I could sleep. All told it was around two months, and it was all over my arms, legs, stomach, and a little on my face for nearly two months.
@SunlessComa4614 Wow, I have heard that some folks are rather sensitive to this plant, especially the saw-dust if cutting firewood, for example. Thankfully, while I'm sensitive to poison-ivy, tree of heaven doesn't get me.
I keep honeybees on my 90 acres and don't use chemicals. But I'm tempted to use this more targeted spray method (vs wild random spraying). Do you think it's safe for them. Thanks
I (Adam Downing) also keep a few bees. Anecdotally, I've not experienced any issue.
According to the National Pesticide Information Center, "Triclopyr is practically non-toxic to bees." See: npic.orst.edu/factsheets/triclopyrgen.html#:~:text=Triclopyr%20is%20practically%20non%2Dtoxic%20to%20bees.
As well, our Virginia Tech Pest Management Guide repeats this and give some practical guidance for protecting honey bees, starting on page 1-31. npic.orst.edu/factsheets/triclopyrgen.html#:~:text=Triclopyr%20is%20practically%20non%2Dtoxic%20to%20bees.
Furthermore, I've heard some bee keepers say that honey produced in areas where there is much tree of heaven has an unpleasant flavor, so there is another reason to control the plant, at least the female trees.
Will the same herbicide mixture work as well on locust? Have those trees all over the yard too
Yes, these application methods and products will work on any wood plant(s).
Thanks i confirmed a have a male tree from hell on my property.
All these years i thought it was a black walnut tree which grow in tge area
@aceyorba, now you know! Sorry it's not a nice walnut.
After treating with the hack method and the tree dies, do you have to wait to cut it down?
If you want to cut down trees after they have been treated, yes, you should wait until some time has passed before cutting. About 3 weeks. However, as far as the "deadness" of the tree goes, there is no need to cut it down. These trees fall apart pretty quickly once they are dead and I usually leave them standing to provide a bit of "snag habitat" for critters.
So I'm in the process of selling my house. I recently found Tree of Heaven growing in my bathroom wall. Some of it was sticking out of the light fixture and then found it in the attic going up a pipe in the bathroom wall. How do I get rid of it in my house? Can I still use round up? Would it be safe to use in the house? I cannot afford to cut holes in the wall. I have 3 children and one is a baby.
Round up will not work, it does not have enough % of the glyphosate
@rufusvalentino I'm sorry this is likely too late to help you but hopefully it will help someone else. Yes, you can use glyphosate (such as roundup or another brand) in the situation you describe. Glyphosate comes in many different concentrations, some of which are concentrated enough to apply as cut-stump.
Where can a homeowner buy triclophere ester and is 41% 4 to 1 strong enough?
A local farm supply store such as Tractor Supply or a farmer's co-op may carry, or be able to obtain if they don't have it on the shelf. It's also quite easy to purchase online through various vendors such as Forestry Suppliers or Forestry Distributing.
If you saw the roots around a tree and remove it, would it still survive or sprout?
Cutting the roots will rarely, very rarely, cause this or any vigorous broad-leaved tree to die. In nearly every case, if you were to saw the roots off the tree and remove the tree, you will have many, very many, root sprouts.
I have a large mature ailanthus behind my property line. We get many immature saplings that grow along our fence line. I also get them in my backyard in my garden area from roots and seeds. I've sprayed those in the past with various brush killers but am wondering about the persistence of some these herbicides such as the tricylopyr based sprays. I pull as many of the small ones I can. Between these and bindweed and other weeds, it is a constant battle. I may just have to cover the entire area in geotextile fabric and install raised beds.😢
Raised beds will make it easier to stay on top of weeds. You're still likely to get some seed land and germinate in these beds but if the soil is loose and you notice early, you may be able to easily pull them by hand.
What’s the recommended tryc concentration?
@damalgr the concentration varied depends on the application method. For example, foliar applications will generally be more diluted that cut-stump or hack-n-squirt.
how long do the diluted herbicides last before losing their properties?
That's a great question and I don't have a solid answer for you. I've personally let diluted material sit for a couple weeks and have not noticed a loss of efficacy. This is anecdotal. It's certainly best to use it as quickly as possible and certainly bad to store it in a sprayer. If it has to be stored, put in in a container and clearly mark it. Best of all is to mix only as much as you can use and use it, clean stuff up and repeat next time. But I get it, life happens.
How long does it yake? When can you cut it down?
@katkameo6413 I'm not sure what the exact question is but I'm guess the question is how long does it take for the root system to die if the stump is treated properly following tree felling. Generally speaking, herbicide activity is evident in about 2 weeks. It does depend somewhat on the product being used
@virginiaforestlandowneredu309 Yes that was it! I ended up cutting the 1 inch diameter trunks then drenching each cut directly with Triclopyr, the solution percentages you recommended. Awful stuff! I did the same with 2 stands of Japanese knotweed. Crossing my fingers. Thank you for your help 🙏
Where can you buy 100% triclopyr amine?
@ryangutmann6886 triclopry products of higher concentrations can be found online or in brick and mortar stores that cater to farmers/landowners such as farm co-ops.
Please note that full strength triclopyr generally refers to a concentration of around 60% active ingredient (triclopyr ester) or 44% active ingredient (triclopyr amine). This is then mixed to a certain concentration or used "full strength" depending on the application method (foliar, cut stump, etc.).
If I have trees that are 9-10 inches in diameter, does the basal bark method still work or is hack and squirt better?
With Tree of Heaven, either will work equally well. For that size of a tree, other species are likely to have thicker bark and the basal bark spray will not be as effective.
I have a huuuuuuge Tree of opposite-of-Heaven in my yard--do I need to hack and squirt AND spray 360 degrees around the base of the tree?
No, not both. I would recommend the basal bark spray. In my experience this works best. Thankfully, Ailanthus (TOH) maintains a thin bark even when large and as such the basal bark spray can work on this tree even when large. I've successfully killed quite a few giant TOH this way.
@@adamdowning3863 Thanks so much for sharing your experience, Adam!
Is there a way to safely kill these if growing near a pond? I'm concerned about runoff harming the aquatic ecosystem.
Yes. The products mentioned, if applied correctly, are safe to use near (not on) water. The product labels should be consulted to verify use near water.
It’s actually impossible to get rid of the lantern fly at this point removing these trees will actually cause them to eat crops. These trees prob serve as a buffer. If you don’t cut it , it doesn’t spread as much. It’s not a huge deal as the entire east coast is covered in vines and Cutzu it’s fine lol
@Hospehlosheph. Unless there is some data that you know of that I don't, I believe the research and most anecdotal data suggests otherwise. These trees are a preferred host and there is some evidence that while SLF doesn't need Tree of Heaven (TOH) to live and reproduce, their fitness may be reduced where they don't have access to TOH. Here is one paper that explored this: www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-95376-x
I live in the desert southwest. Trees are hard to grow and are rather sparse. I’ve had a few “Trees of Heaven” growing in my yard with zero problem for over 25 years. I’ve never seen any bugs on them or have I ever smelled anything bad about them. Since we don’t have a lot of vegetation here, except for desert landscape, the Trees of Heaven look like little palm trees growing here in the desert. I’m guessing that these trees are problematic where there is dense growth (?!)…Not sure I get the bad rap about these trees.
The trees get a bad rap because they are non-native and invasive and are a negative in the ecosystem as native fauna basically find little use of the species and native flora can't compete. I can appreciate that in your situation, it's something green. You might enjoy reading "A Tree that Grows in Brooklyn" that uses this tree as a symbol of overcoming adversity.
@@adamdowning3863 I remember the old movie…will have to read the classic book
The Spotted Lantern Flys seem to like Silver Maples about as much as the tree of heaven, so don't waste too much of your time going after those trees, as your efforts will only redirect some of those pests.
Either way they will get to the sylver maples. The Alianthus will overcome native trees and take over in rural areas.
All trees are made from heaven...read the first chapter of Genesis....the Lord God created all things
Goats will eat them.
They will indeed. Unfortunately, a goat browsed tree is the same as a cut tree... it will come back. Goats, however, are generally more persistent than humans and after repeated browsing can have positive effect.
What you do not know round up was tested and has Venom in it. Alot of Venom and what does Venom do Venom does what it always does. It has snake and scopion Venoms in it. If it gets into your food and water etc,I am not trying to act wise, but Dr. Bryan Ardis wife was tested and had scorpian in her . She may of got it from grocery store food, however , round up was tested. Herbicides have Venoms. I have a print out on argiculture and Venom. This is whats making people sick we are getting ill. I appreciate your information on this video but i decided to include whats in lab reports according to Dr. Ardis.
Dr Ardis is not accurate and is lying. Look into him, he's a fraud. Venom cannot hurt you in your water and food. This is a scam, fear mongering, and not true. However, I would never use roundup or any other toxic herbicide. This is ludicrous and a big part of what's wrong today.
Aren't these trees evergreen? I had one cut down in the back yard and it was green year round. Not i have about 30 sprigs coming up! If its evergreen then any time should be good to kill.
Thanks for the question. Tree of Heaven is not evergreen. They lose their leaves every fall. Not sure what you have in your yard, but feel free to e-mail me a photo for identification. jgagnon@vt.edu
Just kill everything....wow. Kill the trees, then what will the bug go after. If the bug goes after this tree, isn't that solving the problem?
Because Tree of Heaven (TOH) is an invasive, it spreads readily and takes over in spaces where beneficial, native plants would otherwise be. The Spotted Lanternfly LOVES TOH and they thrive on it, allowing them to reproduce in greater numbers. If we remove TOH, then they hopefully cannot reproduce as readily and will spread more slowly or in smaller numbers.
@@sydneyhaney4391 I planted one for the bees, the medicinal value and the nitrogen fixing. It also has desirable wood for woodworking. Keep it healthy and insects won’t bother it.
@gsmscrazycanuck9814 please take care that it does not spread-- deadheading it before seeds form may be helpful. But they spread like crazy by root suckering and seeds. If you want to benefit pollinators, consider planting native plants, that will be better than planting invasive trees.
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814 Ailanthus altissima is not a nitrogen fixer
Please speak in hindi.
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!