Clearing Honeysuckle & Other Trees & Shrubs; Our Step-by-Step Process - December 20, 2020
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- Опубликовано: 20 дек 2020
- Dealing with woody invasives is a time consuming chore that needs to be approached in a systematic way. This video covers what we remove, when we remove it, and how we treat it. You learn the whys along with the hows of what we do. While we focus on Amur Honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii), it is applicable to any woody invasives including any of the Bush Honeysuckles, Burning Bush, Autumn Olive, and Buckthorn. We cover the allelopathic nature of Honeysuckle and how that might impact your choice of treatment. We also cover the specific tools that we have found to be the most useful in our battle against invasive woody species. (See affiliate links below.)
Oak Haven is a 60-acre private woodland in Southwestern Ohio near Cincinnati. Jim and Julie Varick both have degrees in Botany and over thirty years of experience in managing natural areas. They enjoy sharing their enthusiasm for the natural world and would like to build relationships with like-minded people to share knowledge and resources.
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XO!! Just bought 17+ acres in Indiana - this is a great video. Thank you for caring about natives and the environment.
I find that I learn more from your videos in 20 minutes than I learn from hours of reading and trawling the internet. Thank you again. Very interested in your thoughts on the Dewalt Saw. great info.!
Thanks! I was hoping this would be useful for people who are new to cutting out invasive woody plants, but still provide useful information to people who have been doing this for a while.
I agree! The state run government sites for invasive management were disappointingly inadequate. This was so helpful. I have honeysuckle, common buckthorn, and Japanese barberry I am tackling this year although it sadly will reduce our privacy from the road, they have to go.
This is a huge help! Love the technique for a large area! I’ve got 97 acres to work on. So many invasives. My technique has been taking so long- tapping the base with full strength round-up with a tiny paint brush.. I’m going to get this equipment! The money invested will be worth it
Good luck on your project! I admire your dedication.
Thank you for these videos. We purchased 18 acres (16 wooded) in Pickaway county Ohio near Slate Run State Park. I really respect your love for nature and appreciation for herbicides and chemical science. Unfortunately dealing with invasives is not a fair fight manually. I would love to see a book/guide someday. Pictures of invasives, how to treat (herbicide and percentage of concentrate), what works and what didn’t. Thank you again!
Thanks for the kind words. Good luck managing your property.
Jim and Julie, thank you so much for posting this video. My family and I moved on to 3.3 acres of a heavily wooded area in mid-East Missouri back in February, 2021, and our property is just overgrown with Honeysuckle! I had no idea how bad this stuff was until I started doing some research on this stuff that is literally everywhere! It is my mission in life to eradicate it off of my property! I found your video because I was searching for the best way to treat it as I was cutting. Luckily what I have read and the way I have been treating it is very similar to the way that you are treating yours with the exception of your really cool sponge and dye that you use. I had also been using this tiny little 10” Ryobi saw to try and cut down these massive suckers like what you have. It was NOT cutting it (no pun intended). I loved the saw that you used in this video, and went right out and bought one today, and it cut exactly the way that you demonstrated! Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge!!! You guys rock, and I am a subscriber now!! :D
Thanks for the positive feedback! Good luck on your battle.
Great comments, Rachel. Question for you - I saw that saw our WS was using and was envious because I thought, as a puny woman of 125 lbs and 60 years old, I would not be able to handle that weapon. How do you find it to use? Hey, I do get out there and work hard with my 10 inch chainsaw. What do you think?
We purchased 5 acres of wooded hillside two years ago, then purchased the adjoining 5 acres with a house last fall in SW Ohio just outside Cincinnati by the Great Miami River. We basically have 8 acres of honeysuckle! We are thinking of chipping the honeysuckle for cover on the walking paths on the property. We are new to woodland management. I am loving living in the woods. Thank you and your wife so much for your videos. I am learning so much.
Diane, Thank you for the comment! It is wonderful to live in the woods!
Thank you for the great video! Just want to add in case no one else has said it - a sawzall with a pruning blade works great. It can handle the big stuff and you don't have to worry about the blade touching the dirt.
A great idea! Thanks.
I just viewed your invasive honeysuckle video and I’ll be subscribing as soon as I’m done writing this. For the past 3-4 years I’ve been clearing our heavily infested woods of Amur honeysuckle, privet, burning bush, garlic mustard etc. Your information is spot on and I’ve learned a few new things too. Thanks for putting out a lot of info concisely and clearly. Can’t wait to watch your other videos.
Thank you, Chuck, for your dedication! I'm glad the video provided some new insight for you.
Try this, you can do it with a winch, atv, lawn tractor, even a truck. Buy a couple of 50foot coils of cable, I use 3/16" because I have a crimper that I can use to put loops(eyes) in each end. Attach one end to the pulling apparatus, route the other end around an area of brush you intend to clear and use a shackle to fasten it to itself so it chokes down as you pull. Routing it between knee high and waist high seems to work best. Exclude trees you don't want to cut by routing the cable to the side that you will pull from so as the cable tightens it will pull free of those trees as force is applied. Start on the back side of the loop you made and cut undesirable brush as someone pulls the cable tight. Or if you have a wireless remote on the winch cut and pull as you go. This method will both pull the brush away so you can work on clear ground and at the same time, bunch it up to be dragged out of the way. That is the easiest way to "manually" clear brush that I have found. Treat stumps and repeat on the next area. I have 4 cables that I use almost simultaneously.
Wow! That sounds like quite a system. So as you cut, your partner is winching up the slack, pulling all of the stems together towards the winch. Is that right?
@@TheWoodlandSteward exactly. Works uphill or downhill or flat ground.
Thank you, sir, for your video and your stewardship of the land.
You are very welcome!
Brilliant information, thank you very much!! I'll be sharing this !
Great tips. Love the sponge applicator
Great demonstration! Best wishes for the continued improvement of your beautiful property.
Very very well done
Good information sir! Very relevant to us and our Brown Co property. Been pulling small honeysuckle for years. Seem like we can get a big root web when the plant is only 2-3 foot tall. We have loppers and ratchet loppers for medium size bushes. My husband uses gas chain saw on big trees and I follow with brush killer on all cuts. It’s the concentrated stuff from Tractor Supply-not sure what’s in it but seems to work maybe Brush be Gone? Glad to know where to apply to save on solution and the sponge and clip are a great idea. We don’t like chemical warfare but it’s the only thing that works on the false honeysuckle. Hope to tackle more BIG ones this spring. They are like small trees w large trunks all tangled together. We cut big trunks into 24 inch pieces for the wood stove. It seems to burn well. Like you, we leave every thing else to rot on the woodland floor. Thank you for the information.
Absolutely fantastic video. I have been wanting to rid my property of honeysuckle for years and now I have a good strategy! Ordering that Dewalt chainsaw too!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice info and pro tips. Thank you, sir!
No problem! Thanks for considering removing invasives.
Great info, thank you! I'm working on my 11 acre site and really appreciate your videos!!
I appreciate that you are working on your site!
Very helpful, well organized and presented clearly
Thanks!
Sponge on the applicator is brilliant.
Thanks! it works really well for me, and really minimizes the overspray.
@@TheWoodlandSteward That's what I love about it. No overspray. Thank you so much!!
This is excellent information! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
loved the video very informative and well presented kept me interested
Thank you!
I'm so glad to find your channel, although I'm sorry you're fighting the same battles we are about to begin in earnest-- 92 acres of creek bottom in Middle Tennessee. Thank you for such detailed explanations of your methods.
Marti, Good luck on your project! That is a big undertaking. Realize that it is going to take some time and don't allow yourself to get discouraged. What are the biggest hurdles you have in front of you? What is your motivation?
@@TheWoodlandSteward Thanks for your encouragement! Unfortunately, round one has resulted in a massive case of poison ivy! However, we removed a lot of privet that was hiding a beautiful area of Virginia Bluebell and Trout Lily! They are still shaded, but unearthed from the jungle of privet. That is what keeps me going--the native flowers, birds, bugs, and butterflies that keep the cycle going. Thank you SO MUCH for your channel and for responding. It means a lot!
Thanks for the info!
Good job.
This is the best video about Honeysuckle I have seen. I have 10 acres on a mt.side. I have battling Honeysuckle for along time. I use most of your methods, chainsaw , Tordon on fresh cut stumps etc. I only cut 1 at a time, then apply Tordon. Just like you said in your video. Well done , and I just subscribed.
Thanks! Be careful with Tordon, since it will leach out of the roots of the target plant and impact its neighbors.
Good information 👍🏻 currently fighting these plants… makes me glad I don’t have 60 acres to deal with haha
Thank you for your video! SUPER educational/informative both in practical application & biological information. Your very judicious/inventive use/application of herbicides & concern for the environment is to be commended, including the use of biodegradable oil & use of an electric chainsaw😀.
Thanks! I appreciate the nice words.
We're doing a lot of the same things! I agree with you about working uphill and also cutting level to keep the herbicide on the cut surface. We tend to use loppers and Tordon RTU on the roots but have also used the 20% Glyphosphate. Crossbow can be used on the leaves, too, but I prefer to spray when native plants have not yet leafed out in the spring or have already lost their leaves in the fall. Pulling the smaller ones works great after a rain! Just ordered a Pulaski Axe for root docking.
What is root docking?
I have had bad luck with Tordon RTU because it leaches out of the roots and can kill nearby plants.
@@TheWoodlandSteward No issues observed so far on my end but I'll keep an eye out for that happening.
I learned a lot. Thx
Excellent video! I am a fan of the herbicide method as well. Pulling bush honeysuckle is easy enough but not very permanent. You have got me thinking about the battery chainsaw. I love my stihl 180 but the hearing protection gets old. You talking about searching for cut stems to apply herbicide put a smile on my face. Been there too many times. Thanks for posting this video. New subscriber!
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Thank you! This is a lot of helpful info for me. I got a lot of work to do, and it's hard for me to make sense of where to start it all.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video
Thanks!
You're my hero! :)
Thanks! I'm not allowed to use power tools while wearing my cape, though.
Thanks sir. Very helpful.
Glad it was useful!
Great information thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
@@TheWoodlandSteward Yes sir very helpful. I subscribed.
I do similar treatments for a conservancy in southeast OH. I particularly like your modified sprayer so that you can safely operate power cutters and treat immediately after. Thanks!
Thanks for the work that you are doing!
Oh
@@TheWoodlandSteward b
We have (3) acres in Anderson Township loaded with honey suckle & rope vines we are getting ready to build our House up in the woods but the rope vines and honey suckle are killing a lot of the forest / trees your video was very good & helpful.
(Thank you )🙂💪
Good luck with your battle and your new home!
Super informative
Glad it was helpful!
I have 10 acres of beautiful land, but it's just INFESTED with honeysuckle, strangles off everything that isn't already 20 feet tall. I was hoping for a quick way to solve it, but, in my mind I knew it was going to be something like this lol. Thank you for the info, I better get to work.
I'm guessing that you have Japanese Honeysuckle, the vining honeysuckle. It is obnoxious!
Great job thank u
Like your applicator! I'm gonna use that one.
It has worked very well for us. Did you see the video where we show how we made it?
I've got several acres about an hour from Cincy. Been fighting the honeysuckle battle for a couple of years. This is a great video. My latest weapon to try this season is a small electric pole chainsaw. Hoping that I can get through larger stems without getting down on the ground.
Good idea!
Thank you for all this great information, you were very thorough and the content was well thought out :)
Thank you, Michelle! I appreciate the encouragement.
Last year I started clearing some land I own to one day build my dream home on. My woods are just covered in bush honeysuckle. Some with trunks 6-8” across. After cutting down and treating hundreds of these plants I thought I was done. I never knew what it was or that it is invasive and such a problem for native plants. Now I will put a plan together to get this invasive plant off of all of property over time. I did like how thick my woods are with this plant growing so once I cut the honeysuckle out I’ll have to come up with a replacement plant to grow in the underbrush.
You might be surprised what grows in once you release it from the Honeysuckle!
in southern mn, ive been pleased to see many native gooseberries move in (not to mention burning bush, after the honeysuckle and buckthorn was gone)
Very informative. I have two acres I need to address without herbicide… looking into bringing in a herd of goats combined with brush cutting.. and mulching what gets cut
I am concerned about research that I have read about using goats. Purdue University has reported that goats may preferentially eat some natives before eating the invasives. It might be a good option if you are intending on clearing all of the vegetation from a site, and then replanting from scratch. If you have native plants in an area, I hate to see the whole area destroyed. Let us know what your personal experience is.
Yes.. The goats will be fence into specific areas that are so far gone that I am thinking goats are the best first step.. I will let you know how it goes..
Just put on my rawhide gloves to do battle with blackberry. In western Washington this vine is ferocious. I start at the perimeter and work my way in. The backward hooked thorns discourage one's reaching in to get at the roots, otherwise.
Sounds like honey suckle could make a natural weed killer, weilapathic, first time hearing that word 👍🏾
Maybe, but I just heard that the mechanism might be adding nitrogen (a fertilizer) to the soil late in the season when the leaves fall, which somehow suppresses the germination of native plants. It would be nice to know.
We've got 8 acres with probably 5 off Woodlot, I've been cutting the honey suckle out and using a paint brush and coffee can to apply the round up, I'm saving alot of chemical doing it like that, did quite a bit last spring, all the stumps have basically rotted away and have not come back.
Nice job! Thanks for knocking back those invasives.
I am going to use a battery powered trimmer this year, much less hassle than a gas one.
I'm sold on battery power!
i still think taking out the big ones first to reduce seed production is better. just make piles to get them out of the way. this also makes habitat for wildlife to shelter in
I understand your point. I too would like to get the big ones cut before they have ripe seeds. When I am taking the time to drag and pile though, I am not cutting and treating, so I'm covering less ground. You may be right, though.
Love the idea of marker die and sponge modification, I'm going to try that, thank you. I think I read in my Dewalt battery chainsaw manual that you can use regular cooking vegetable oil in the saw for tree trimming. Check it out you could say yourself some money.
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I'll look into it.
thank you for your videos, they are very helpful in my honeysuckle battle! One question, what cutting wheel do you use on your brush cutter? I have the 131 kombi tool but I need an attachment like the one you have. Thank you.
A sawzall with a pruning blade works instead of a chainsaw too for larger stems. (Milwaukee or Diablo brand pruning blades have done the best for me)
Good idea!
@@TheWoodlandSteward more time effective due to no sharpening and a hair lighter. More expensive on blades but steel is recyclable. Great job you're doing. I learned a few things from you 👍
I have a problem with Chinese privet, too. It's driving me 🤪
Question please!! I am new on my land in Indiana as of 2021 and am just getting started. I have, of course, massive colonies of honeysuckle. I got the ratty sticks, multi-trunked bushes, all the way up to 25+ ft mature trees of this crap! So getting back to getting started, you say you cut down the little stuff first but I am unclear as to whether you are then 1) removing the small stuff, or 2) leaving it on the ground to rot for some time (a year?) before you go back in and tackle the larger plants, or 3) cutting down the sticks, then immediately piling the bigger stuff on top...??? Your videos are invaluable and have empowered me more than many other sources of information I have found. It's great also that we are in the same region of the country - I am in east central Indiana. Thank you.!
I let things rot in place. The small stuff disappears in a season or two. I don't wait until the small stuff is rotted before I start on the next size class. The only reason I do the small stuff first is that it is hard to work around the carcasses of those monsters. It's easy to work around the cut smaller stuff when dropping the big ones.
I use the same process, but I have a much better blade for you, will handle up to 5-6" diameter trunks FORESTER 9" chainsaw brush cutter blade. I use it to clear young and mature privet, and trees up to 6" diameter trunks.
Central IL here, honeysuckle has gotten so bad here that the DNR have resorted to crop dusting the gouvournment access hunting land to kill off the honeysuckle. I myself am fighting on my 2.5 acres of land I inherited from my grandfather. The inly thing I've found that works is creating as much trauma as a can to the llant at the base and roots as soon as I cut it down. The chickens are actually great for keeping them grow sprouting off of the stumps too
I haven't heard of chickens keeping back the re-sprouts, but more power to them!
@@TheWoodlandSteward I think they just instinctively peck at and mess with the green sprouts lol, keeps them down
Thanks for this great video. My lot is smaller, but I needed this info. I accidentally bought the right tools before seeing this video. I’ve been using the brush cutter for up to 3 inches. Does that hurt the blade? Mine is the Stihl 111.
When I am cutting bigger stuff with the brush cutter I find that I need to swing at it like a scythe. If I have to hold it on the trunk for it to cut through it tends to heat up, which might be bad for the blade.
Great video, very informative. I'm a land manager at a 240 acre forested property in Nebraska, where we have a multitude of invasive species in the woodlands. Honeysuckle, autumn olive, tree of heaven, garlic mustard, and poison hemlock are the main culprits. We have a very small crew to battle the invasives with, the majority of the year it is just me. Seeing your methods provides me with hope! Vigilance appears to be the key. I was curious what methods you employ in the spring and summer months? This would be the time of year when the plants are sending an upward flow of sap, so I assume stump treatments wouldn't be as effective? Have you done foliar applications? Thanks again for putting the video together, I look forward to watching the video on your herbicide applicator rig.
We are working to eradicate Garlic Mustard and Japanese Stilt Grass in the spring and early summer. We do do some stump treatments in the summer, and I have never had a problem with sap flow. We treat some things with a foliar treatment of 2% glyphosate, but I try to only do that on very small plants since there tends to be a lot of overspray when you are spraying the leaves of taller plants. Good luck in your control!
Guy is absolutely crazy not wearing eye protection forget the ears if something comes up and hits you in the eye byby sight
Thanks for the great videos. I know you mention leaving the cut honeysuckle but do you ever use a wood chipper/shredder on the honeysuckle? Any recommendation on what to look for or what to avoid in a chipper used mainly for cleared honeysuckle. I usually make piles of the cut but some areas are so thick I think it would be best to shred some/all of the cut honeysuckle.
We considered chipping it, but we didn't really want to use the chips for landscaping (they break down quickly). We consider spraying the chips out into the woods, but I was concerned about it being too thick in places and I didn't know if the allelopathic impact would be greater if it decomposed faster. The bottom line, though, was I'm too lazy to drag them out of the woods to a chipper. Any time spend processing branches is time not spent cutting.
What I’ve learned over time is this: If there’s a lazy way to get things done, and it works, that’s the optimal way.
We have triclopyr... Is that safe to use for this, or will it leech into the soil or affect surrounding native plants?
I have watched this video several times over the past few months, waiting patiently to get into the woods to cut and treat the honeysuckle, although I have a question about the glyphosate. The one I found says “weed and grass killer” and is 41% concentrate. Is this what I want? Also, what do you recommend along the banks of a small creek? If I pull and cut the honeysuckle along the creek bank, will erosion become a problem? Thank you! (We are also in southwest Ohio, near Cincinnati!)
Lisa, sorry for the late reply. Yes it sounds like you want the 41% glyphosate diluted about 1:1 with water to give you a 20% glyphosate working solution. This may be too late to suggest, but I would consider using a glyphosate mixture without a surfactant, or with a surfactant that is labeled for use in aquatic areas along a streambank. Personally, I feel like the honeysuckle is suppressing the growth of an herbaceous layer that will hold the bank better than the honeysuckle does. It is true that pulling honeysuckle could disturb the ground and make it more prone to erosion. If you cut it and treat the stumps you will leave the roots in place until other plants have a chance to fill in and hold the soil.
Great video we have a lot of 3” or more honeysuckle that was left to grow crazy on our new 45 acre property.
How late in the year can you treat like this? I need to wait for the leaves to fall and some spots of poison ivy to die back before I start.
We treat Honeysuckle by cutting the stem and treating the phloem with 20% glyphosate throughout the winter until the sap starts to flow in the spring. Then we take a break and focus on Garlic Mustard and Japanese Stilt Grass until late summer. Then is is back to Honeysuckle, cutting that stems or sometimes treating the leaves with 2% glyphosate.
@@TheWoodlandSteward IMPORTANT PLEASE, is the herbicide effective below 40 degrees?
@@salviabuckwheats7434 We treat Honeysuckle throughout the winter and have never had a problem with reprouts. There is some debate about the effectiveness if the herbicide freezes on the stump, but I have not seen a problem. I certainly would continue working at 40°F.
Does it need to be at lest a certain temperature for this herbicide to work? You mention that the 4% mixture used on foliage should be used only above 45 degrees. Thank you for all your care of the environment.
We treat cut stems with 20% glyphostate as long as it flows (down to freezing). Foliar applications need to be warmer with actively growing leaves.
Is that a renegade blade on your brushcutter? Is it safe to use a regular handle on the brushcutter I heard it should be a bike handle type.
It is similar to a Renegade blade, but this is an ATIE 8" 80 tooth blade. (They are a little cheaper.) The manual says to use a bike-handle on the shaft, but I have never had a problem with control.
How long does it take for all the stumps to rot away? I am constantly tripping over them, and my property is a rather treacherous hill.
I have been trying to evaluate that over the last few months. Some areas seem to clear relatively quickly (2-3 years), while others hold on for several years. I find some satisfaction in kicking over the rotting stumps after they have softened a little bit.
Thanks you for sharing…. Do you treat honeysuckles when temperatures are below freezing? Do you use a different herbicide if you do?
We cut and treat honeysuckle with glyphosate as long as the solution isn't freezing. I believe that people will use Triclopyr 4 (ester) in oil below that, but I choose to wait until the weather is better.
i just pull up the little ones. honeysuckle has a weak root system and even not-so-little ones pull up easily. (then again, i have far less tan 60 acres)
We do pull up LOTS of little ones, particularly in the spring when we are weeding Garlic Mustard. Every walk in the woods involves weeding the stray invasive shrubs, like honeysuckle and burning bush. (We find that Autumn Olive doesn't weed as easily, so leave that for cutting and treating.) Thanks for your suggestion.
Will this method kill poison oak? How about the vines going up trees.
how long can you run that electric saw?
Kind of a difficult question to answer. When I am cutting honeysuckle, running it for a little bit, then moving on to another trunk, I can go about an hour on a 9Ah battery. If I am running it longer to cut firewood, it won't last as long. That's my gut feeling. I have never timed it. I will pay more attention and record a review of the saw at another time.
So herbicide works in the winter? I'm in a big battle with huge honeysuckle. I plan on doing a prescribed burn in areas. My understanding is invasive species cannot survive fire but native plants/seeds will thrive. Going to give it a try.
I agree with the basic idea that fire will favor native plants over invasives. I'm not sure that it works well with "huge" Honeysuckles, though. Are you planning on clearing the big shrubs and using fire to fight the re-sprouts, or killing the shrubs with the fire?
Cutting and treating big ones. And using them as fuel too help burn out the 5ft and below. I got some bushes that are 15ft all over the place.
We have areas that are such massive tangles of invasive vines it's hard to figure out how to tackle them. Any advice? I'm kind of afraid of brush cutters ...
I can appreciate the concern with brush cutters, although I think they are perfect for what you are describing. Depending on the vine, some are in leaf before or after the native vegetation, so they can be sprayed with a leaf treatment (2% glyphosate).
We have Buckeye trees that have over taken our property. Would you use the same process for Buckeye trees?
Probably. I've never seen Buckeyes grow that aggressively.
Does the glyphosate kill birds or other animals if they come into contact with it?
I have not found anything to suggest that glyphosate kills, or even sickens birds or animals. I have seen data to suggest that flooding bees with a huge amount of glyphosate might be bad for them. There is a lot of press and debate about whether glyphosate can cause non-Hodgkin's lymphoma in people who come in contact with it. I choose to avoid skin contact with it and keep Kimber (our dog) out of the area until it has dried (usually within an hour). I doubt there are many wild animals walking through treated areas before it dries either.
Will covering with tarp for 6/8 months kill the honey suckle?
I would think covering with a tarp for 6-8 months would kill most things. Are you thinking covering a shrub, or just the young seedlings? Or are you suggesting cutting the woody stems and covering it so that any resprouts would die from lack of light? I just saw a neighbor who covered Lesser Celandine with a white tarp for a while, but the tarp let enough light in that it didn't seem to impact the plants.
@@TheWoodlandSteward Thank you for the response!! The honeysuckle vines have formed a dense mat in the woodland and other areas. I plan to treat the cut woody stem with herbicide. But trying to stifle the vines on the ground. The tarp I am using is blue. I will try to put more stuff to prevent light
I see squirrels, bumble bees, groundhogs and all visiting and they might die after being in contact with foliar treatment of glyphosate
@@sarmi84 I believe you need strong sun to solarize. In the woods I do not believe it would work but I am not an expert. Good luck. (p.s. I also feel sorry for the bugs, etc. but what can we do? Best approach is herbicide as the last choice and I see that is what you are trying to do.)
so is this honeysuckle bush non native? What does it hurt?
Thanks for asking. Yes, bush Honeysuckle is a non-native invasive shrub in the United States. It forms dense stands in woodlands and chokes out the native plant community by competing for resources; particularly sunlight. It also produces a chemical that washes off of the leaves and into the soil that inhibits the germination of native plants. Areas with Honeysuckles tend to have low plant diversity, which leads to low biodiversity in the rest of the ecosystem.
@@TheWoodlandSteward well, i was enjoying the privacy of the many bushes on my land over the past 10 years, but after watching your video i found out my land is covered with this honeysuckle bush. Dang i hate to see them go, but i guess will get to work on them. Also have a lots of winter creeper
Can you cut down the tree of heaven and remove the trunk/bulb, immediately? I bought property in eastern Washington and it’s sand and they are everywhere.
I don’t have two years. We are building first of the year. They are all around the existing house., I’m afraid it will co e through the floor or puncture the septic tank.
When possible, I prefer to use the method in our video on killing Tree of Heaven where we kill it slowly so that it doesn't sucker. Obviously, that's not practical in all situations. I would treat all that you can now so that some will be killed before you begin building. Trunks that are less than 6" in diameter I would treat with Triclopyr 4 (Triclopyr BEE 61.6% by wt.) 20 parts concentrate in 100 parts kerosene (or similar oil) as described in the Basal Bark Treatment, Low Volume. Trunks that are over 6" I would still use the hack and squirt method (straight concentrate), even though it may not completely kill the trees before you have to cut them down for your construction. (Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you use.) If there is suckering later on I would treat with the Basal Bark Treatment again. I hope that helps.
Thank you.
I don't know when it changed but even big box store bar oils offer non petroleum based bar oils due to usfs and nps rules nowadays
Where can I purchase the 41% glyphosate? I'm battling tree-of-heaven ( hell )
dont kill it! save it for the Spotted Lanternfly
@@blakespower what do you mean?
You may have said it and i missed iy but what chemical are you using to kill the hineysuckle i used tordon my first time and i think i messed up with it being very very cold out in the dead of winter.
Sorry for the late reply. We use glyphosate at 20% for cut stems and 2% for foliar application. We have used Tordon, but it can spread out through the roots, so we killed some non-target species.
Great videos man but WEAR EYE PROTECTION!
Good point! Thanks for your concern.
Is this Lonicera maackii? It's an awful beast.
In China Honeysuckle is valued as a treatment for covid-19. actually "safe and effective" and sold out the instant it became available to purchase, from early on, after the study results and simple treatment protocol became known - to the dismay of the remdesivir salesman and or saleswomen who tried to disparage the use of honeysuckle to increase their sales.