Jon, this was super helpful. I used to do my own maintenance on my 2003 CR-V. You are never as “in tune” with your vehicle as when you are taking care of most things yourself. I want to get back to doing these things myself. Thanks!
Thanks Jon! I watched the Twitter feed... and this one. You did a great job! Thanks for showing how easy it is to change. I did mine a couple months ago at 15K and it was every easy!
Hey I know that guy that mentioned the tooth paste bag! I'm actually working on a Honda right now. Albeit the 3 cylinder variety. Gotta agree fluids are cheap insurance. Especially if it's only a $10 bottle for 2 changes. One extra caveat: I think it's worth mentioning the vehicle should be level when filling because it's typically done on a lift at a shop. I have 4 ramps for this very reason. Think about that Gatorade bottle on a hill and what a difference a few degrees can make!
Thanks again, Jon! Your videos do a great job of showing the steps. I will definitely be changing my own transfer case and rear diff fluid, thanks to you!
good reminder even for folks not lucky enough to own a Honda. Check for a severe duty schedule and change fluids at least that often. My car was a pavement princess for the first owner who thankfully followed the maintenance schedule religiously. Now it's going on the occasional adventure (but nothing compared to JonDZ) so the least I can do is change fluids. Changing fluids also gives you the opportunity to see what's going on under your car. Loose fasteners, rust, fossilized squirrels, who knows what's happening down there!
Couple things to note: boats suck fluids out from fillers/dip stick and honestly I have a tool that does that and it just works beautifully. Can drop the container off for recycling easily, but you are leaving some more contaminated oil than normal. Don’t knock it til you try it. Haha. . And PTUs weren’t designed with handling that much torque honestly. When you are climbing a loose grade you are heavily dependent on the rear wheels, so that will place a lot of strain on the ptu. On the road the front wheels have more grip and it’s not an issue. The clutches in the AWD systems act like a locker (up until they start to slip so limited in torque transfer) in that they will not allow one output to slip until torque is maximized to both outputs (proactive traction aid), so you won’t notice the rear wheels handling more torque but they are. . That’s why it’s so imperative to change your fluids more often due to clutch degradation and protecting drivetrain parts that just weren’t designed for that severe of use. Those wet multiplate clutches also shear the oil on a molecular level which means you’ll lose the ability much more quickly to lubricate and support bearing loads.
There’s no clutch material in the PTU. The Honda iVTM4 system uses a RDU (rear drive unit) and the center diff is basically built into the rear diff. I didn’t have any microscopic metal shavings in the transfer case fluid at 15K miles, but at 30K, it’s metal soup. I think the transfer case is getting lots and lots of heat soak from the transmission, engine and catalytic converter. Fluid becomes compromised and then it’s Metal on metal at that point. Your absolutely right, I have to change the fluids, and it’s such an easy job for me, there’s no reason not to.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring yeah, I was speaking generally for drivetrain components so I’m hoping you are changing out the RDU fluid as well. . I don’t think it’s heat soak, I think it’s due to the bearing size supporting the gear. Larger bearing will displace the forces over a larger surface area and have more leverage allowing the surfaces to run cooler. The oil itself can only support so much hydraulic load that you are likely seeing more metal on metal contact and using the fluid to cool it rather than suspend it. . A lot of talk goes on about ring gear size, but it’s the bearing that will support the interface between the ring and pinion. So if the bearing allows too much deflection the ring and pinion become misaligned and you will see accelerated wear as well. Obviously ring gear size matters as well, but people neglect to think about the support.
Thanks for the video sir! My wife and i both drive 2021's awd. I will be doing this and the trans in two weeks and im at 35k. Wifes is only at 15k. All these drain and fills are super easy! I will say the trans fluid AINT CHEAP! Thanks again!
awesome video. Another reason to remove the fill plug first is if you remove the drain plug first and empty your transfer case, differential, transmission, etc and if for some reason you cannot remove the fill plug you're screwed and would have no way to fill up the above systems I just enumerated.
I heard this happening to people. It never crossed my mind to open the drain plug first, I always thought of pouring laundry detergent and how you have to open the top vent first, hehe.
I had a 2008 Nissan rogue awd that the transfer case failed in 2020(around 90k miles). There was nothing about it in the service manual. I didn't even know I had one! Got a replacement from a low mile junk yard. it was such a pain to replace! since that event, I now do a fluid change on it every 15k on my 2 pilots(2012 and 2022)
Good advice. With such a low fluid capacity in that transfer case it might not be a bad idea to change it even more frequently with your usage of the vehicle.
It’s wild how it looks like mercury after 30k I changed both diff and transfer case guild on my Tacoma at 30k. Only the rear diff guild was nasty looking. Black in color like used engine oil. Having a part time 4x4 system keeps the front diff and transfer case out of the regular use equation.
Thanks for the video . I have a 24 Passport Trailsport . I always do fluid changes early . Did 3 oil changes before 4500 miles . Rear dif at 4500 miles. Just did the transfer case at 5800 miles , glad I did . Fluid looked fine but only 3/4 full . I'd hate to see what it would look like if I went by Honda schedule. Next the transmission to make sure that level is correct. Nice video 🎉
I wonder if you could just swap out the bearings in the transfer case. If you change them before they get too worn then in theory the gears should not be damaged. All bearings have a number stamped on them so can usually be found without difficulty.
Loved this video. About to do the diff and transfer case fluids. Already have my nolo designs skid plates installed for my first gen. Jon are you running a trans cooler?
Just changed it on my 22 Ridgeline with 35k miles after seeing your vid. It looked like somewhere around 15kish or lower compared to your pictures. It rarely sees off road, so it's certainly not stressed, but wondering if your transfer case might've been defective.
I’d be very curious how your fluid would look. If you’re up to the task, it’s an easy job to change the fluid yourself and if you could send me a pic or video clip of how the fluid looks, I’d really appreciate it. An update video would be cool.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring yea dude I can hack it. May be a week or two. Just moved in to a new house and unpacking/setting up the house is the priority for now.
The Cherokee Trailhawk has different PTUs. They actually have 2 of them. PTUs fail on fords, Jeep crossovers, BMWs, old Honda Pilot/ Acuras, even if street driven. I have a friend that has an automotive shop and old street driven Acuras with high mileage are constantly coming in. These people don’t change their transfer case fluid as often as they should 😃. My goal with this video is to educate people on how easy changing the fluid is, and how cheap it is.
Jon, good instructional video, great information for those of us who want to keep their keep vehicle for a long time and need tips like these to maintain the parts and systems that are more prone to wear. Seeing this also steers me toward buying new rather than used unless the seller has all the service records including transfer case oil changes. What have you hear about transmission oil changes? I had a couple long trips 2K miles each pulling a heavy trailer with my 06 RL and I changed the transmission oil before each of those trips. I later heard not to change transmission oil before the recommended mileage interval because it can actually be harmful to the tranny to do so. Your thoughts? Any news on the next MY Passport re: what they plan to do to make it more road worthy? (not just stickers and badges and stitching on the seats). I wish more msgs would build in a system like the Rivian that can raise and the front and rear for incredible ground clearance for the short sections it is needed and then push a button and it comes back down for highway driving. Is there any way to do that to the Passport or RL or 4runner or are we stuck with one setting that cannot be changed in just a minute or two? I see the FlatOut Suspension is adjustable with a threaded nut on each shock but that's more than a few minutes to raise or lower the rigs ground clearance.
Thanks Tim! So the best advice that a guy like me on RUclips can give is to follow the Honda maintenance schedule. The transmission service will either be a "drain and fill" or a "fluid flush". I'm no expert, I'm not even that mechanically inclined, but it is common knowledge that performing transmission flushes at the wrong intervals can be harmful to the transmission. There's many youtube videos about this. Now, my Honda Passport has the German made ZF9 transmission. It uses expensive high temp fluid that's bright green in color (instead of the dark red, like regular transmission fluid). I've been monitoring the fluids and magnetic drain plug and everything looks good at 30K miles. As far as the new honda platform, I believe it will be on the same platform as the 2022 MDX, which uses a beefier suspension system with a double wish bone front suspension. Other than that, I know nothing about it. So, the height adjustable suspension you talk of is typically done using "air bags". The 2022 MDX has this system. The off-road / overlanding community typically doesn't prefer this setup because the bags are prone to bursting. I hope Honda will offer the next gen with traditional coil springs.
TFS. My only feedback other than this was all good info is that you were not using a torque wrench, so all you did was tighten the two (2) PTU bolts to your assumption of the recommended 35# torque value. That can't be good. Torque values are provided by the manufacturer for good reason, right?
@@JonDZ_Adventuring you really should compose a list of all the crawl ratios of like everything that is even partially meant to go off road. All in 1 list. From down to the crv all the way up to the Rubicon 392 and stuff. That way someone can look at their frontier pro 4X and compare it to a pilot to a zr2 and a compass trailhawk. That might take time but you would be the only resource in the game that took the time to do that . And it would be very helpful for people I am sure
@@JonDZ_Adventuring you should. Cuz I want to know these things . Partially cuz I feel like my Cherokee is in the upper half at least of that , and most likely the highest crawl ratio of any crossover. But I think it would surprise a lot of people to know their 4wd solid axle rigs have a lower ratio than they think. Like the Toyotas and Nissans and stuff
Both should be replaced at around the 120K mark. The bad thing about timing chains is that destroy your engine when they fail. They don’t last forever like people thought they would. They’ve been catastrophically destroying things.
Just had mine done at the dealership for $170 on my 2020 passport, now I hear/feel kind a drone, only has 15,000 miles, does that sound normal to you? I got to take it back and see what they say, but any ideas.
Unless I am missing something here I see a HUGE FLAW in this video. You have the car at a steep angle on the ramps when u dive it off the ramps my guess is your nor over full on the fluid. Anytime I do anything like this I try to be on a level of a surface as passible.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring It was such a well done video and being 61 I grew up in an era of mommy and daddy didn't buy you and Audi SUV as your first car. A lot of people may have super slopped driveways drive it on ramps etc. Just thought maybe that was worth a mention is all overfilled is never good in my world but could be an old man thing :)
look at it as cheap insurance, $10 per change so every 15k for 150k miles costs about $100. Well worth it if it prolongs the life of the transfer case and especially if it prevents a catastrophic failure in the boonies.
Jon I was following you on ig but I got rid of all my social media before I could get your phone number do you have a public email you don’t mind sharing or a way I can get a hold of you
Jon, this was super helpful. I used to do my own maintenance on my 2003 CR-V. You are never as “in tune” with your vehicle as when you are taking care of most things yourself. I want to get back to doing these things myself. Thanks!
Thanks Jon! I watched the Twitter feed... and this one. You did a great job! Thanks for showing how easy it is to change. I did mine a couple months ago at 15K and it was every easy!
Awesome! I know you were concerned about the way the fluids looked (with the metallic looking sheen), so I made sure I talked about that.
Hey I know that guy that mentioned the tooth paste bag!
I'm actually working on a Honda right now. Albeit the 3 cylinder variety.
Gotta agree fluids are cheap insurance.
Especially if it's only a $10 bottle for 2 changes.
One extra caveat: I think it's worth mentioning the vehicle should be level when filling because it's typically done on a lift at a shop.
I have 4 ramps for this very reason.
Think about that Gatorade bottle on a hill and what a difference a few degrees can make!
Thanks again, Jon! Your videos do a great job of showing the steps. I will definitely be changing my own transfer case and rear diff fluid, thanks to you!
I have a 2023 passport. It says to use atf3.a fluid.why so many differences
good reminder even for folks not lucky enough to own a Honda. Check for a severe duty schedule and change fluids at least that often. My car was a pavement princess for the first owner who thankfully followed the maintenance schedule religiously. Now it's going on the occasional adventure (but nothing compared to JonDZ) so the least I can do is change fluids. Changing fluids also gives you the opportunity to see what's going on under your car. Loose fasteners, rust, fossilized squirrels, who knows what's happening down there!
Yum! 😋Fossilized squirrels 🐿
Couple things to note: boats suck fluids out from fillers/dip stick and honestly I have a tool that does that and it just works beautifully. Can drop the container off for recycling easily, but you are leaving some more contaminated oil than normal. Don’t knock it til you try it. Haha.
.
And PTUs weren’t designed with handling that much torque honestly. When you are climbing a loose grade you are heavily dependent on the rear wheels, so that will place a lot of strain on the ptu. On the road the front wheels have more grip and it’s not an issue. The clutches in the AWD systems act like a locker (up until they start to slip so limited in torque transfer) in that they will not allow one output to slip until torque is maximized to both outputs (proactive traction aid), so you won’t notice the rear wheels handling more torque but they are.
.
That’s why it’s so imperative to change your fluids more often due to clutch degradation and protecting drivetrain parts that just weren’t designed for that severe of use. Those wet multiplate clutches also shear the oil on a molecular level which means you’ll lose the ability much more quickly to lubricate and support bearing loads.
There’s no clutch material in the PTU. The Honda iVTM4 system uses a RDU (rear drive unit) and the center diff is basically built into the rear diff. I didn’t have any microscopic metal shavings in the transfer case fluid at 15K miles, but at 30K, it’s metal soup. I think the transfer case is getting lots and lots of heat soak from the transmission, engine and catalytic converter. Fluid becomes compromised and then it’s Metal on metal at that point. Your absolutely right, I have to change the fluids, and it’s such an easy job for me, there’s no reason not to.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring yeah, I was speaking generally for drivetrain components so I’m hoping you are changing out the RDU fluid as well.
.
I don’t think it’s heat soak, I think it’s due to the bearing size supporting the gear. Larger bearing will displace the forces over a larger surface area and have more leverage allowing the surfaces to run cooler. The oil itself can only support so much hydraulic load that you are likely seeing more metal on metal contact and using the fluid to cool it rather than suspend it.
.
A lot of talk goes on about ring gear size, but it’s the bearing that will support the interface between the ring and pinion. So if the bearing allows too much deflection the ring and pinion become misaligned and you will see accelerated wear as well. Obviously ring gear size matters as well, but people neglect to think about the support.
I'm pretty sure that short extension is at least 6 inches 😏
Thanks for the video sir! My wife and i both drive 2021's awd. I will be doing this and the trans in two weeks and im at 35k. Wifes is only at 15k. All these drain and fills are super easy! I will say the trans fluid AINT CHEAP! Thanks again!
awesome video. Another reason to remove the fill plug first is if you remove the drain plug first and empty your transfer case, differential, transmission, etc and if for some reason you cannot remove the fill plug you're screwed and would have no way to fill up the above systems I just enumerated.
I heard this happening to people. It never crossed my mind to open the drain plug first, I always thought of pouring laundry detergent and how you have to open the top vent first, hehe.
I had a 2008 Nissan rogue awd that the transfer case failed in 2020(around 90k miles). There was nothing about it in the service manual. I didn't even know I had one! Got a replacement from a low mile junk yard. it was such a pain to replace! since that event, I now do a fluid change on it every 15k on my 2 pilots(2012 and 2022)
Good advice. With such a low fluid capacity in that transfer case it might not be a bad idea to change it even more frequently with your usage of the vehicle.
That’s exactly how I feel about it. It’s cheap too!
Thank you, I mainly needed to know if the 9-speed electronic shifter version has a transfer case…which the first 5 seconds of your video states 👍🏽
I love the shout out but it was about 38000 miles. I have 43000 on mine now. I wish it was 80k lol
Oh dang! Well, I also been chatting with another guy with a Trailhawk that blew up a PTU at 80K
It’s wild how it looks like mercury after 30k
I changed both diff and transfer case guild on my Tacoma at 30k. Only the rear diff guild was nasty looking. Black in color like used engine oil. Having a part time 4x4 system keeps the front diff and transfer case out of the regular use equation.
I was horrified. Not even kidding, thing I thought about was how it looked like mercury and the Terminator T1000 🤣
Thanks Jon! I hope it's not too late for my 09 CRV.
Thanks for the video . I have a 24 Passport Trailsport . I always do fluid changes early . Did 3 oil changes before 4500 miles . Rear dif at 4500 miles.
Just did the transfer case at 5800 miles , glad I did . Fluid looked fine but only 3/4 full . I'd hate to see what it would look like if I went by Honda schedule.
Next the transmission to make sure that level is correct. Nice video 🎉
I wonder if you could just swap out the bearings in the transfer case. If you change them before they get too worn then in theory the gears should not be damaged. All bearings have a number stamped on them so can usually be found without difficulty.
Thanks for a great video. I did not find your prior video on the transfer case. This is a great reminder on fluids. I use AMSOIL engine oil.
Great Vid! Don't know the schedules either, but good to know how much you use your vehicle. That will give you an idea when you should do a change.
Great video! I change mine often too.
I probably should change mine a bit sooner after all the climbing during our Colorado trip!
@@JonDZ_Adventuring it got used for sure!
Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome Ray!
Loved this video. About to do the diff and transfer case fluids. Already have my nolo designs skid plates installed for my first gen.
Jon are you running a trans cooler?
Thanks 🙏, yes, I’m running the OEM transcooler for the ZF9. It’s a tiny little thing with proprietary connectors, otherwise I’d run something bigger.
Just changed it on my 22 Ridgeline with 35k miles after seeing your vid. It looked like somewhere around 15kish or lower compared to your pictures. It rarely sees off road, so it's certainly not stressed, but wondering if your transfer case might've been defective.
Thanks Jon. Wasn’t even on my radar. 30k miles. I don’t think I’m a spirited driver and only been offroad twice. Hope I didn’t do any damage yet
I’d be very curious how your fluid would look. If you’re up to the task, it’s an easy job to change the fluid yourself and if you could send me a pic or video clip of how the fluid looks, I’d really appreciate it. An update video would be cool.
Mail him some oil, then Jon can send out for analysis side by side vs his extremely abused lower mileage oil.
@@KTMcaptain good idea Jordan!
@@JonDZ_Adventuring yea dude I can hack it. May be a week or two. Just moved in to a new house and unpacking/setting up the house is the priority for now.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring It's very easy! I did mine in about 10mins after jacking the vehicle up.
I Have a 22 passport, Thanks for the video
Something I realized with the transmission.
I added an extra quart to the transmission.
I'm getting better gas mileage now.
Great video again Jon 👏
Huh interesting the Cherokee has the same ZF 9sp and probably PTU
The Cherokee Trailhawk has different PTUs. They actually have 2 of them. PTUs fail on fords, Jeep crossovers, BMWs, old Honda Pilot/ Acuras, even if street driven. I have a friend that has an automotive shop and old street driven Acuras with high mileage are constantly coming in. These people don’t change their transfer case fluid as often as they should 😃. My goal with this video is to educate people on how easy changing the fluid is, and how cheap it is.
Terminator 2 🤣
Jon, good instructional video, great information for those of us who want to keep their keep vehicle for a long time and need tips like these to maintain the parts and systems that are more prone to wear. Seeing this also steers me toward buying new rather than used unless the seller has all the service records including transfer case oil changes. What have you hear about transmission oil changes? I had a couple long trips 2K miles each pulling a heavy trailer with my 06 RL and I changed the transmission oil before each of those trips. I later heard not to change transmission oil before the recommended mileage interval because it can actually be harmful to the tranny to do so. Your thoughts? Any news on the next MY Passport re: what they plan to do to make it more road worthy? (not just stickers and badges and stitching on the seats). I wish more msgs would build in a system like the Rivian that can raise and the front and rear for incredible ground clearance for the short sections it is needed and then push a button and it comes back down for highway driving. Is there any way to do that to the Passport or RL or 4runner or are we stuck with one setting that cannot be changed in just a minute or two? I see the FlatOut Suspension is adjustable with a threaded nut on each shock but that's more than a few minutes to raise or lower the rigs ground clearance.
Thanks Tim! So the best advice that a guy like me on RUclips can give is to follow the Honda maintenance schedule. The transmission service will either be a "drain and fill" or a "fluid flush". I'm no expert, I'm not even that mechanically inclined, but it is common knowledge that performing transmission flushes at the wrong intervals can be harmful to the transmission. There's many youtube videos about this. Now, my Honda Passport has the German made ZF9 transmission. It uses expensive high temp fluid that's bright green in color (instead of the dark red, like regular transmission fluid). I've been monitoring the fluids and magnetic drain plug and everything looks good at 30K miles.
As far as the new honda platform, I believe it will be on the same platform as the 2022 MDX, which uses a beefier suspension system with a double wish bone front suspension. Other than that, I know nothing about it.
So, the height adjustable suspension you talk of is typically done using "air bags". The 2022 MDX has this system. The off-road / overlanding community typically doesn't prefer this setup because the bags are prone to bursting. I hope Honda will offer the next gen with traditional coil springs.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring Thanks for the great info Jon!
What do you use to track maintenance? Old school pen and paper? Excel? App?
TFS. My only feedback other than this was all good info is that you were not using a torque wrench, so all you did was tighten the two (2) PTU bolts to your assumption of the recommended 35# torque value. That can't be good. Torque values are provided by the manufacturer for good reason, right?
Good feedback
It’s literally a fill and drain plug, snug it and forget about it.
My arms and hands are calibrated, no need for torque wrench.
Jon, what is the latest video with your list of low drive ratios on 20 some AWD vehicles? thanks,Tim
This video at the 13:30 mark:
ruclips.net/video/A6Ugoz92w5M/видео.html
@@JonDZ_Adventuring you really should compose a list of all the crawl ratios of like everything that is even partially meant to go off road. All in 1 list. From down to the crv all the way up to the Rubicon 392 and stuff. That way someone can look at their frontier pro 4X and compare it to a pilot to a zr2 and a compass trailhawk. That might take time but you would be the only resource in the game that took the time to do that . And it would be very helpful for people I am sure
@@seanwatson3790 I have a website, I can do this
@@JonDZ_Adventuring you should. Cuz I want to know these things . Partially cuz I feel like my Cherokee is in the upper half at least of that , and most likely the highest crawl ratio of any crossover. But I think it would surprise a lot of people to know their 4wd solid axle rigs have a lower ratio than they think. Like the Toyotas and Nissans and stuff
@@JonDZ_Adventuring Thanks Jon!
Isn’t the rear differential a different grade requirement than the transfer case?
What about timing belt? People complain about Passport having belt vs chain.
Both should be replaced at around the 120K mark. The bad thing about timing chains is that destroy your engine when they fail. They don’t last forever like people thought they would. They’ve been catastrophically destroying things.
@@JonDZ_Adventuring Thank you.
Does the AWD models have a transfer case???
So would this be the same process for a 2017 Ridgeline with the 6 speed transmission?
The Honda 6 speed transmission has a different transfer case, so just go through you owners manual and figure out how much and what fluid to put in.
Just had mine done at the dealership for $170 on my 2020 passport, now I hear/feel kind a drone, only has 15,000 miles, does that sound normal to you? I got to take it back and see what they say, but any ideas.
Droning sound could be the exhaust
Today in mid dec 2023 its overs $23
Thank you good video
Unless I am missing something here I see a HUGE FLAW in this video. You have the car at a steep angle on the ramps when u dive it off the ramps my guess is your nor over full on the fluid. Anytime I do anything like this I try to be on a level of a surface as passible.
It’s actually overfilled, which I’m okay with. For the Transmission fluid change, you’ll want level ground for sure!
@@JonDZ_Adventuring It was such a well done video and being 61 I grew up in an era of mommy and daddy didn't buy you and Audi SUV as your first car. A lot of people may have super slopped driveways drive it on ramps etc. Just thought maybe that was worth a mention is all overfilled is never good in my world but could be an old man thing :)
Excelent
15k change is overkill
Why’s that?
look at it as cheap insurance, $10 per change so every 15k for 150k miles costs about $100. Well worth it if it prolongs the life of the transfer case and especially if it prevents a catastrophic failure in the boonies.
@@RandomGuy-qm3mg plus, 15K is the change interval for the rear differential (under Hondas Severe duty schedule).
Jon I was following you on ig but I got rid of all my social media before I could get your phone number do you have a public email you don’t mind sharing or a way I can get a hold of you