How To Convert 1 Outlet Into 2
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- Do you have a place in your house where you plug a bunch of things into it and you wish you had another outlet there to use? You can actually convert that outlet into one that has two instead.
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Nicely explained. Safety tip: No matter how familiar you may be with your own home, always assume there might be two separate breakers feeding one box. You should test that BOTH outlets are no longer live before removing the plate and manipulating anything.
1st thing to do: cut the opening for the 2 gang box. Then you have room to get the old single gang box out. Usually, you can pry the single gang box right off of the beam w/out using a sawzall. BTW, sawzall in the wall..lots of potential for damage. Use the sheetrock knife.
I could actually cry from joy after finding this video. Thank you so much for sharing your thorough concise process. I learned a ton.
Nice, clear step-by-step video. I worked for an electrician neighbor when in college and learned a lot of basic stuff like this while helping wire up new houses during summer break. Its saved me a ton of $$$ over the years doing electrical around my house.
One thing you should have done is put in a few mistakes to show folks how to check their own work before turning the power back on.
Nice - only saw one thing that would not meet code. @5.15 when bringing wire into the box, the sheath *must* come into the box at least 1/2 to 1 inch. And FWIW, don't break off the tabs where wire comes into the box. Otherwise good job and yes, it is fairly easy to do.
Yes I was thinking the same thing.
How about an "Old Work Box", some times it's necessary to snap off the plaster ears next to the outlet mounting screws on the outlets to get the cover plates tight to the wall.
I was just gonna say.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the box along with the outlet type etc…. For those of us who need that I appreciate the efforts
Love the integrated graphics. good job.
Well explained with good tips for any novice
Extremely well done video, thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
@@Anyhourservices I love your shirt! Do you sell them to the public or do you only have apparel available for your employees?
Very nicely done. Covered safety and the how to and kept it super simple for everyone to understand.
One of the cleanest explanation I seen and heard regard this installation yet ! Thanks
This is the second video from you that I've watched. This is really well done and well explained.👍 I like your style.
You have a new subscriber. 🙂
Great job. Clean install. Nice explanation
Well done. You went through every step very clearly and made it simple for a home DIYer like me. Thank you!
Haven't done it yet but will be in the near future. Saving this video, it will Definitely help. Thank you for taking the time to explain and demonstrate, it has restored my confidence in me being able to do myself instead of hiring an electrician.
Just closed on my new house a week ago. I am very glad I found this video AND this great channel. Very helpful advice, as I plan to add a few extra outlets into my new kitchen and in the bedrooms. Thanks very much, keep them coming.
What he did here won’t meet the newest Electric Codes, you must have the outer jacket showing inside the box. If you don’t have enough of the outer insulation, to do this, some inspectors will allow Heat Shrink Tubing for Old Work. Also in my County, “Pig Tail” wires on the grounds must be Green insulated Wire. Grounds Straight off the Romex, no insulation is needed.
I caught that as well, but the big concern is protecting the individual wires. That is why it's code. We need to remember that the code exists for a reason.
Hey this video answered all the questions i was needing answers to! You made it look easy, and even though I've done this kinda wiring before, i don't do it often enough to retain all the important stuff. Thank you for making this video!
Glad it helped!
Top-notch information presented in an easy to follow manner. It is obvious that you are paying attention to the little details that make home remodeling successful.
Great video! Taking a wire to find the stud was my favorite tip.
Very good explanations and overall tutorial
You did an excellent job on the wiring and your video. Simple and to the point. 95% of wiring is like this. If it's more than this, call someone. Thanks for doing this.
Great video and use of tools. I am not steady enough to use the sawzall on small drywall pieces -- so prefer the oscillating tool. Tip to enhance instructional: include use of one of those outlet testers, maybe with a booboo. like maybe the wires reversed on #2.
Better than EXCELLENT!
Other than a reciprocating saw for the nails, for better control, I use a 'hacksaw' blade clamped in a 'vice-grips' pliers with only about 3" of blade. Through each nail in 10 strokes or less : ))
wonderful explanation and demonstration of house wiring, but if all you want is 4 outlets where there are only 2, just go to the dollar store and get the plug in 2 into 6 outlets. It plugs into the gfi 2 outlet sockets and gives you 6 outlets. For an extra few dollars, it will turn the the outlets 90 degrees so the plugs don't stick out in front of the counter.
Great explanation of this install! Interesting note on wiring gfci downstream
I’ve done a few like this in my home. Fortunately I completed it like you demonstrated. Thanks for the reinforcement of my project. Excellent explanation and graphics.
Oh my goodness! Where have you been? You are an excellent teacher. I really appreciate your attention to details. Thanks so much. I felt so empowered after watching your video.
I have never wrapped a outlet box with tape, but watching and thinking about it, in some instances it could give you some added protection. Now on wires in Wire Nuts, after I test that all wires are attached inside the Wire Nut, If I have a big enough diameter piece of Shrink Tubing to slip over the Wires and Nut, and the Wires and Nuts are accessible, I've shrunk this tubing on the wires and the nuts to further protect them. Don't no if this is acceptable to Standard, but it works for me and gives added protection. Good Video and Instructions.
Greetings! Very well explained and concise, simple explanation of the process with emphasis on safety and paying attention. Thanks!
Great job. Very neat work. Thank you for posting.
Thank you too! I appreciate the comment.
Not a bad video overall but it always amazes me that someone targeting a DIY crowd uses tools that the average guy might not have, especially power drivers, power saws, and special testers. If I were teaching a novice I'd be using a lamp to check for power and all hand tools that are commonly found in a shoebox. I might even do the trick with a hacksaw blade in a vice-grip. I would also add looking in the hole with a flashlight for that other wire which could have been nipped with a power saw.
Very well produced video! Appreciate the animations. Keep up the good work 👍
Great video and you are an amazing teacher!
Well explained with easy to follow progression. Many thanks!
Wow. Thanks. I appreciate the detailed explanation. Some things seem obvious but to some it makes all the difference. New subscriber.
Sawzall! Good tip! When I did this, I used a little pry bar to work the old box off the stud, and damaged the drywall a teeny bit. (Nothing an extra wide faceplate couldn't cover.) I like your method much better!
Yeah, I used to use that method. It was how I was taught. I got good enough that I could do it with out damage but once I got a sawzal I switched. But that took practice too because if you're not careful you can blow right past the nail and cut into the drywall.
I don't use a Sawzall for doing Box Cutouts in Dry Wall ! I have one of those Oscillating Cutters which I refer to as a Beaver because they are much safer than using a Sawzall and less chance of cutting into something else ! Or I also have a RotoZip which I use to cut the box cutouts with , but I like and prefer the Beaver ! ....... Licensed Journeyman Electrician with over 53 years in the Trade
Awesome tutorial indeed, clear and concise! I think that there is a couple of other things that you might have mentioned though. First is the positioning of the ground pin to the bottom of the socket and the reason for it and two, many kitchens are double wired to a single outlet. The brass bridge connector has been cut out to allow for dual circuits, one for the top plug line and one for the bottom plug line, so when they initially disassemble the original plug they will find the dual wiring and MUST turn off TWO breakers rather than one.
Easy to do now that it was well explained. 3 thumbs up.
Man, exactly what I needed to see! Thank you.
Good video. You didn't test the USB port, in case you need to return it for not functioning.
outstanding teaching...thanks so much!
Great idea. I need to do this in three places. Gives me something to do while stuck at home.
I love that you use an cordless screwdriver to save time but ALWAYS double-check electrical connections with regular screwdriver! Also, that quick-connect for ground isn't as safe or secure as a wirenut
Fun! Thanks for creating and sharing.
It’s much easier than I thought it would be to do.
Thanks for watching!
Dude great video..very well explsoned..
Great demo! Answered all my questions. Thank you
great demo and explanation, thanks
Great presentation 👏.
Nicely done, both the job and the video!
You are awesome I learned so much thank you 😊
Great video, very helpful
Excellent video! Thank you.
Get an oscillating tool. It will help so much
I love the step-by-step! Cant foul it up.
Thank you! Exactly what I need it.
Amazing job, thank you for this video !!!
Great presentation. I like it
Too awesome and insight-full. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome work.
Excellent tutorial. Subscribed!
Good Job, thanks for posting. I had no idea there was a remodel electrical box.
Great information done very well. Thank you.
Excellent ! You are the Man !
thanks much Sir
Great, to the point video. Thanks.
great instructions
Very nice video. Well done.
I personally don't like to use the remodel box for outlets because it's not strong enough to handle many pushing and tugging. I use the a regular box and screw it to stud from the inside.
An exceptionally well done DIY video. For those lacking a Reciprocal Saw a Sabre Saw or even a wrapped Hacksaw blade would work. Thanks! Wakodahatchee Chris
Nice video, good tools, thank you!
You still have the equivalent of one outlet nothing has changed. If you run the coffee pot and microwave and toaster it will still pop the breaker. The line feeding the circuit is still 20 amps max. Nothing has changed except you have paid someone to do something for you that did not increase the amp capacity of the circuit. This is a total waste of money. What needed to be done is add a new line from the breaker panel with breaker to that new GVI plug and then you have 20 amps on each plug to use. Then one circuit runs the microwave and the other circuit runs the coffee pot and toaster.
Great job. So helpful. The animations were awesome too. Curious what that pigtail plug was. So convenient and no need for wire but.
I believe it was a Wago connector.
Interesting and informative.Thanks
Thanks for the video.
Nice neat clean job.
Thanks 👍
The jacket of the Romex needs to be visible inside the box. Also, should be stated that if a metal box is used (yes they do exist), the box needs to be grounded.
This is mostly a technical observation but if the outlet that is installed downstream of the GFCI outlet does not need GFCI protection, do not connect to the load side. In this instance, the downstream outlet is in the same box as the GFCI outlet which is in the kitchen which is the whole reason why the outlet is a GFCI. Like I said, it's just a technical observation.
Good job, I watched just to see it done.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks buddy it helps a lot
Glad it helped
Super informative video. I have a question, though. I want to install a motion sensor light that would be 5 feet away from an existing outlet. Do I just pigtail a connection from the outlet into the motion sensor light? Thanks!
Great tutorial!
Excellent vid! Wondering, does this method make one of the original plugs non functional? Or will both original plugs and both new plugs work? Thanks
thank you
Good video and to the point 👍🏻
I have to laugh because you have the same exact tools that I do.
Carry on.
One thing you should have explained was the polarity that the line side and the neutral side must never be mixed up. I bought a mobile home and found most of the daisy chain outlets were miss wired. Also the screws on the outlet are different colours. Cheers
Great job, Thanks!
New Sub. Thanks for a great presentation.👍🏽
New Subbie 👍 you're to the point! Not so technical easy to understand. TY
Thank you!
Very nice video. One nice thing about living in an area where thinwall and metal boxes are code is that all boxes for.outlets are dual gang, so it just means removing a little drywall and a new 20gang mudplate.
Good to know. Nice informative video..
I might end up doing something like that (but using regular receptacles, not GFCI), I'd have to get into the ceiling to run wires from a receptacle on the other side of the room, i am hoping there is a much easier way. I cannot find a situation exactly like my own, it is typical to have two neutrals twisted together at a light switch, I have only one white wire (currently capped off). From a receptacle connected directly to the panel, I have a 3-core run of Romex (wires inside a jacket) running to a light switch, the white is just capped off with a wire nut, the other two wires (black, and I think the other one is red) are connected to leads on the switch - works as it should, switch turns the light on and off. I want to wire the receptacle right next to that switch in the same box, would be much less work than tearing the walls/ceiling apart; don't want the switch to control the receptacle, I want the receptacle to be able to power devices plugged into it regardless of whether the light is on, I just want to bring constant power to the receptacle by connecting it to the switch.
If you have a tester and know what to look for, all you need in the switch box to make the outlet work is constant hot, neutral, and a ground. If you don’t have it there, I would look and see if there is an outlet on the other side of the wall before I got in the attic. Good luck my friend.
@@Anyhourservices , thanks for that reply, I will use that as well as other resources to try to make this connection, I really don't think it should be that difficult but I have a home owner/DIY'er level of knowledge of electrical wiring so just kinda looking for confirmation that what I have in mind should work. I do have a multimeter, I could figure out how to use it to look for.a constant hot, but I think I know how to supply that to the other receptacle, after doing a lot of reading/watching vids. There is a 3-core Romex running off of that receptacle connected to the main panel, but the white is currently doing nothing, it is capped off at both ends, at that receptacle and at the other end where there is currently a switch; what I was thinking is attaching it to he remaining silver screw on the existing receptacle and doing the same on the other end, removing the wire nut and attaching that end of the white to a silver screw on the new receptacle - this would leave me with only the white on the new receptacle, and a black and red wire attached to screws on the switch; the red is twisted together with the red going to the fixture on the other end, I was thinking I'd leave the red alone on the switch, I would remove the black from the switch then get two more short wires and twist the three blacks together, so I'd have two short runs of wires connected to the black coming from the receptacle connected to the panel (attached to a brass screw on that receptacle there), then attaching one of those two blacks to a brass screw on the new receptacle and one to the remaining screw on the switch (which currently has the one black). Make sense? The new receptacle would not be switched but would have constant power? That will be thirty million times easier than having to access the available receptacle on the other side of the room, through a very narrow space above the ceiling (no other good alternative out there, or the other side of the wall).
I just did this a couple weeks ago except that I removed a single box and replaced it with a 3-gang box to plug almost everything behind our desktop computer. I was wondering afterward if I should have made it a 4-gang box since I still have two power strips plugged into it.
If I was building a new house is but double duplex receptacles throughout the kitchen (above the countertops) and on either side of wherever a bed might be put in any bedrooms.
G F C I ground fault circuit interrupter
How is this different from installing it away from the original? Do you have a video installing an outlet away from the other?
Very good teach I like it
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Minor detail. You could explain how to attach the wires in case there is not the clamp type, and why not to use the spring tension holes on the back.
Otherwise, fantastic job.
Personally, I prefer a hacksaw blade to cut the nails. More control so less chance of wire or drywall damage. And I wear gloves to give myself a fighting chance against other hot wires inside the wall. Some crazy person might have run a wire either along the stud or through it on top of the box. I said crazy.
Well, from a foreign point of view: Make sure the mantle of that cable is a bit inside of the new box (This ensures that the wires do not get destroyed by rubbing or that they are pulled back out). Use insulated ground pig tails instead of bare metal (this ensures that the probability of unwanted connections to hot wires is minimized). Finally simulate a ground fault (by a proper tool!) on the receptacles downstream to make sure the GFCI is working properly.