WOW!!!....Way to go Tim....She's getting to look like a wheelhouse, instead of a closet with chairs, windows, and a steering wheel.. Great Job Brupeg crew...
The ply you've used for the lids and faces looks like Finnish birch plywood, really good stuff. I'm ploughing through all your videos, I can't wait to see what Brupeg looks like now. If I wasn't on the other side of the world I'd love to be helping you with the woodwork, I trained as a cabinetmaker many years ago.
Thanks Nic, yeah that ply was just the most beautiful stuff to work with, unfortunately we can’t get it anymore so we are make to using a MUCH lesser quality wood
For the future ... I would start looking at battery (Lithium Ion) operated tools. You will want a good collections: circular saw, reciprocating saw, drill, impact, grinder, cut off wheel, etc. Obviously stick with one manufacturer/battery size.
Nice layout of wheelhouse with easy to read instruments and built in storage. Nice carpentry work by Tim in a difficult area to work in too. I received notice that my Brupeg coin has shipped, it will look nice in the collection, I plan on putting them in a display for my sailboat interior decor.
Good video Damian and good to see you Jess, I hope you are doing well, that is some nice work on the dash, looking good, keep up the good work and hope to see you guys again soon,
Thanks Doug, yeah it’s only half finished and the temp has gone down so much we don’t need air con (unheard of a month ago). Thickness will be doubled soon so looking good for the polar temps expected.
If you are going to be cruising the sub-antarctic/antarctic regions, I would recommend a second layer of 50mm foam board in the ceiling. I would mount that 90° to your first layer. You want to keep that heat inside ! You did not say what you were going to seal the wood surface with. It is important to coat all surfaces, including the back. I use 3 parts mineral spirit, 2 parts boil linseed oil and 1 part of oil based marine spar varnish (𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑐𝑎𝑛 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑏𝑎𝑏𝑙𝑦 𝑠𝑘𝑖𝑝 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑣𝑎𝑟𝑛𝑖𝑠ℎ 𝑜𝑛 𝑢𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑒𝑛/𝑐𝑜𝑣𝑒𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑒𝑠). 3 or 4 coats of this (𝑖𝑡 𝑑𝑟𝑦𝑠 𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑙𝑦), then a couple of coats mixed 2/2/1 and finally 1/1/1. The last coat might take over 24 hours to fully dry.
Nice update, got confirmation my coin was sent today to add to the rest of them I have so should see it here in Australia next week at some point. 👍. Great work Doug and Betsy are doing. 👍
I notice that your solutions are still the same. They work to high specifications, dont necessarily look great, but you use “duct tape, baling wire, a couple of old pieces of plywood,” and BOOM, it works. I grew up as a dairy farmer, and so much of what you do on this boat reminds me of growing up. Working on “older” heavy equipment and making it run.
Do you expect really high humidity level in the pilot house? I'm asking because if I ever learned anything by the time I was working at the classic wooden boat shipwright that would be "never leave uncovered edge of plywood"%) That probably was an obsession of the grandmaster there but every piece of plywood we used to make interior or a structure was contoured by a wood strip (if it wasn't glued by that edge of course).
I was watching your engine and propeller video and you were wondering why the steel was thinner in some places. Did you notice the thinner plate was over your piping on the outside engine cooling pipe? It might be thinner on the top side. You should check to be sure. The reason is that steel ships and boats running in saltwater sets up an electrical charge that eats steel, and the cooling piping is the other electrical field. You need to put anodes along the hull to slow it down.
Hi Carl. Brupeg has 16 anodes so i don’t think it’s not a lack of sacrificial material that’s caused this. That said the previous electrical setup must have had some issues as the thin steel was from electrolysis
If one doesn't already exist on Brupeg, you'll probably want to install an isolation transformer at some stage. I learned a great deal from Nigel Warren's "Metal Corrosion in Boats: The Prevention of Metal Corrosion in Hulls, Engines, Rigging and Fittings". Part of the Dark Arts!
09:00: I didn't notice holes through the steel for power runs and data cables. I can't emphasise enough that if you think you need six, hole saw cut 10. You can easily "blank" the ones you don't need. 10:20: Everything on a boat moves, of course. A caddy for nav tools (dividers, plotters, compasses), the 20 pairs of sunglasses you'll need (make 'em cheap because they go for swims), pens, magnifying glasses, binoculars, handheld VHFs (and chargers), shock cord, spare knives, flashlights, keys for all the locked things (like the rum locker!), tools to open fuel fills, paper towels, work gloves, random squirt bottles. That thing will fill up fast! 14:30: I'm going to assume you know what screens do to your night vision. It's amazing how dim you can make them and still function on watch. Great work for all involved! Are you going to have wipers and/or a pantograph in the forward windows?
Ok a few things to answer. No holes cut for cables (yet) but will be multiple large holes when we do. We will have a caddy of sorts built into the nav table for nav ‘stuff’. With a lid so we can close them away when not being used. The screens will be able to go quite bright as well as very dim so we are hoping day and night watch will be covered here. As for wipers we will be adding those to most of the forward windows.
For rust prevention i would apply a layer of grease on the painted metal and then insulate. I live on a boat in the Netherlands and that is a common way to do that over here. Cheers from the river zwarte water in the Netherlands.
Hi Acid. We have to be super careful about fumes and toxicity in the interior of Brupeg so because of that we need to rely on paint with a fast off gas time and or very low VOC’s.
Progress is being made but I sense there are a few more years of work ahead for the crew of brupeg before she's a safe and capable vessel able to safely ply the vast waters of this planet.
The bulk of the internal fit out will be in the water. Safe and comfortable are two different things, we'll be sea worthy in 6-12 months and comfortable within 2 years. Cheers Jess
Are you guys going to insulate behind the instrument panel and around the windows? Are you going to seal the seams for the insulation to stop condesation from outside surface?
Hi Phil. Yes to both, behind the instruments is getting 120mm of polystyrene and between the windows (behind the soon to be installed mullion shrouds) will be getting filled solid with insulation as well. We are really conscious that any exposed steel will create lots of condensation and the last place we want in running is behind our instruments!
Hi Tony, yeah we went through and sealed all wood with two coats of International Everdure and then anything exposed to UV is getting a few coats of Jotun Hard Top.
It is but it’s because we needed to build the dash in modular blocks. All up the wood work weighs maybe 10kg. Brupeg weighs close to 70t when launched so it’s unlikely we would notice a few kegs difference
Gonna be beautiful with all of the woodwork finished and all of your gauges,switches and controls.Is the area on the port side of the helm going to be your chart table?
Yes that correct. we have given ourselves as large a chart table as we can fit so we can spread the A0 charts out without having to jam then up or fold them over.
You have enough room above for a rack of thin-wall PVC tubes 50 mm ID to stow the current ones away from the action. Should be easy to make with two lengths of plank, a hole saw and the tubing.
I have a bunch of old "refit your yacht on the cheap" books from the '70s and '80s, back when you could buy a "bare hull" and finish it the way you wanted (because a lot of yachties had the skills to do so). I'm pretty sure it's, therefore, not my idea, but it's a handy one!
My SV SEEKER coin collection will arrive with this mornings mail. The BRUPEG coin should be in my mailbox in about a week. Look for pictures on Facebook
That's awesome to hear, yes please send us a pic as we are really proud of our supporters and always want to say thanks! I cant wait to receive ours, (you will have one before we do!!!)
I also ordered a batch of coins. I'll be picking up a Brupeg coin in a few weeks as well. I'm always late to the game, so you will both probably get your coins first.
I would recommend not putting a screen such as your plotter depth sounder or radar rite in front of your wheel. Put them off to the side. They kill your night vision. It’s kinda a pain when coming into a tight spot. You’ll be leaning forward trying to get your eyes in front of the screens so you can see. Also I’m a big fan of NEC screens they are the best I have found for dimming down enough for use at night.
Another alternative is to mount them on armatures bolted to the pilothouse roof or the metal over the windows. By armatures, I mean the sort of hinged, lockable mounts you see in bars and airports for display screens. When not in use, you can push them screen up to the roof and lash them in with a shock cord or a clip. Frees up helm space and you can have a smaller screen if you can, in essence, plonk it closer to your face in the first place. I plan on mounting my radar display this way to keep the helm more open for charts and to keep the cabling neater (inside the roof, actually).
Yeah I’m going to sit in the skippers chair and ponder screen placement. We need to get this right so an hour of staring and thinking will save a lot of swearing later on.
Hi James, We will be mounting cup holders into the center console so they are always within reach. I'm a man that takes coffee far too seriously to not have good cup holders. As for courtesy flags, we are not that formal and as yet have never needed to welcome any dignitaries on board such that they would need courtesy flags to herald their arrival. That said it is now common knowledge that Trump can give as little as 24hrs notice before he just turns up, in which case we have a pirate flag at the ready.
By courtesy flags I mean the national flags of the port's country flown when visiting foreign climes. I'm led to believe it's an old tradition and may not be done so much any more...... As Wikipedia states it ..... "A courtesy flag (or courtesy ensign) is flown by a visiting ship in foreign waters as a token of respect. It is often a small (that is, smaller than the ship's own national ensign) national maritime flag of the host country, although there are countries (such as Malta) where the national, rather than the maritime flag is correct. The flag is customarily worn at the foremasthead of multi-masted vessels, the dockside yardarm or crosstree of the mast of single-masted vessels, while the house flag would be outboard. It may be flown from the jackstaff of vessels without masts."
Hi Bill Spray foam would have been great but isn't an option for us. we run the numbers on everything else and poly came out best on all metrics. That said, the rigid boards will be pressed firmly against the steel, and all seams will be foil taped to stop air flow, and a second layer of polystyrene goes over top of all that. Then interior panels. We know its a compromise but we think we should be able to manage the air leakage with this method.
I've heard a lot of youtubers say that they had to turn off music in the background, or if they play a clip, keep it really short. Otherwise youtube might flag the video as having copyrighted material in it (and I think that means it gets demonetized). So personally, I loved the music, I just got a little worried that the video would get auto-flagged.
Ahh, I see. We have had our videos flagged a number of times for music, however we pay for all of our music with a subscription service, so we own the rights to use it on our videos. So if we do get flagged (which does happen surprisingly often) we just supply our licensing details and the flag is dropped instantly. normally happens maybe once a month to put it in context.
WOW!!!....Way to go Tim....She's getting to look like a wheelhouse, instead of a closet with chairs, windows, and a steering wheel.. Great Job Brupeg crew...
Thanks Jim. Been a bad moral boost seeing it come together, Tim did an amazing job
The ply you've used for the lids and faces looks like Finnish birch plywood, really good stuff.
I'm ploughing through all your videos, I can't wait to see what Brupeg looks like now.
If I wasn't on the other side of the world I'd love to be helping you with the woodwork, I trained as a cabinetmaker many years ago.
Thanks Nic, yeah that ply was just the most beautiful stuff to work with, unfortunately we can’t get it anymore so we are make to using a MUCH lesser quality wood
For the future ... I would start looking at battery (Lithium Ion) operated tools. You will want a good collections: circular saw, reciprocating saw, drill, impact, grinder, cut off wheel, etc. Obviously stick with one manufacturer/battery size.
Nice layout of wheelhouse with easy to read instruments and built in storage. Nice carpentry work by Tim in a difficult area to work in too. I received notice that my Brupeg coin has shipped, it will look nice in the collection, I plan on putting them in a display for my sailboat interior decor.
That sounds awesome, send us a picture of your display I would love to see it. Thanks for watching the build
I am drinking a beer to Tim - great progress again - well done Damien!
Thanks Pete, I wasn’t her for most if this one! This was Ryan Tim Rebecca and Jess’s work.
Gee - that's another three beers then - great team and great project.
She is coming together. Looking good!
Thanks very much Page
Wonderful progress everyone. Nice bridge layout.
Thanks Matt, yeah Tim did an amazing job, his workmanship was really something to watch
Good video Damian and good to see you Jess, I hope you are doing well, that is some nice work on the dash, looking good, keep up the good work and hope to see you guys again soon,
Cheers Dave. It’s great to see the transformation thanks to Tim after 3 years of bare steel and paint.
Brilliant update, getting the wheelhouse done so you can stand at helm and pretend to be at sea!!
I’ve been pretending and making the driving noises for months
"We do have measuring implements". Love It!
Subtle condescension is a welcome form of humour on Brupeg. Thanks for watching along Ross.
I love your build guys, well done.
Great part of the build, cannot wait till instruments are fitted. Doing a great job, keep it up.
Thanks Gogs
Oh the joy of insulation. And great to see your pilothouse fixtures going in. Food for thought.
Thanks Doug, yeah it’s only half finished and the temp has gone down so much we don’t need air con (unheard of a month ago). Thickness will be doubled soon so looking good for the polar temps expected.
Cup holder right next to the helm !! Got to keep that guy Happy , LOL.....
Hot coffee when its blowing its arse off at 3am is a great thing!
A bit of forward progress is always a good thing! Thanks for the video.
Cheers Duncan.
Thanks Tim!
Another wonderful installment.
Thanks Nelson
Thanks Nelson
Absolutely bloody brilliant, my dears!😊😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
All love, and best wishes, Claire, Sally, and Zora, Berlin 😘 😘 😘 ✌ 👍 👍 👍 😊
Thanks Claire
Good work team, progress!!
Thanks Buddy, your boats looking great, cant wait to see the interior coming along and that stunner hatch you are making!
If you are going to be cruising the sub-antarctic/antarctic regions, I would recommend a second layer of 50mm foam board in the ceiling. I would mount that 90° to your first layer. You want to keep that heat inside !
You did not say what you were going to seal the wood surface with. It is important to coat all surfaces, including the back. I use 3 parts mineral spirit, 2 parts boil linseed oil and 1 part of oil based marine spar varnish (𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑐𝑎𝑛 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑏𝑎𝑏𝑙𝑦 𝑠𝑘𝑖𝑝 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑣𝑎𝑟𝑛𝑖𝑠ℎ 𝑜𝑛 𝑢𝑛𝑠𝑒𝑒𝑛/𝑐𝑜𝑣𝑒𝑟𝑒𝑑 𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑒𝑠). 3 or 4 coats of this (𝑖𝑡 𝑑𝑟𝑦𝑠 𝑞𝑢𝑖𝑐𝑘𝑙𝑦), then a couple of coats mixed 2/2/1 and finally 1/1/1. The last coat might take over 24 hours to fully dry.
Hi Jack, we have sealed all wood with a two pack epoxy wood preservative
Nice update, got confirmation my coin was sent today to add to the rest of them I have so should see it here in Australia next week at some point. 👍. Great work Doug and Betsy are doing. 👍
Oh that’s awesome. Thanks heaps!
What a fantastic job you guys are doing. Damien I love your thought process, thinking well into the future
Thanks very much
Great video guys and gals
Thanks very much
Watching for first time 3 years later….. my, how some things have changed, and how some things have stayed the same.
What do you notice?
I notice that your solutions are still the same. They work to high specifications, dont necessarily look great, but you use “duct tape, baling wire, a couple of old pieces of plywood,” and BOOM, it works. I grew up as a dairy farmer, and so much of what you do on this boat reminds me of growing up. Working on “older” heavy equipment and making it run.
We do build with what we can find/scrounge
Do you expect really high humidity level in the pilot house? I'm asking because if I ever learned anything by the time I was working at the classic wooden boat shipwright that would be "never leave uncovered edge of plywood"%) That probably was an obsession of the grandmaster there but every piece of plywood we used to make interior or a structure was contoured by a wood strip (if it wasn't glued by that edge of course).
Ever surface has been everdured and will eventually be covered by contour strips
Brupeg is looking great my friends
Thanks Ronnie
I was watching your engine and propeller video and you were wondering why the steel was thinner in some places. Did you notice the thinner plate was over your piping on the outside engine cooling pipe? It might be thinner on the top side. You should check to be sure. The reason is that steel ships and boats running in saltwater sets up an electrical charge that eats steel, and the cooling piping is the other electrical field. You need to put anodes along the hull to slow it down.
Hi Carl. Brupeg has 16 anodes so i don’t think it’s not a lack of sacrificial material that’s caused this. That said the previous electrical setup must have had some issues as the thin steel was from electrolysis
If one doesn't already exist on Brupeg, you'll probably want to install an isolation transformer at some stage. I learned a great deal from Nigel Warren's "Metal Corrosion in Boats: The Prevention of Metal Corrosion in Hulls, Engines, Rigging and Fittings". Part of the Dark Arts!
Thanks Mark I will check out that book
09:00: I didn't notice holes through the steel for power runs and data cables. I can't emphasise enough that if you think you need six, hole saw cut 10. You can easily "blank" the ones you don't need. 10:20: Everything on a boat moves, of course. A caddy for nav tools (dividers, plotters, compasses), the 20 pairs of sunglasses you'll need (make 'em cheap because they go for swims), pens, magnifying glasses, binoculars, handheld VHFs (and chargers), shock cord, spare knives, flashlights, keys for all the locked things (like the rum locker!), tools to open fuel fills, paper towels, work gloves, random squirt bottles. That thing will fill up fast! 14:30: I'm going to assume you know what screens do to your night vision. It's amazing how dim you can make them and still function on watch. Great work for all involved! Are you going to have wipers and/or a pantograph in the forward windows?
Ok a few things to answer.
No holes cut for cables (yet) but will be multiple large holes when we do. We will have a caddy of sorts built into the nav table for nav ‘stuff’. With a lid so we can close them away when not being used. The screens will be able to go quite bright as well as very dim so we are hoping day and night watch will be covered here. As for wipers we will be adding those to most of the forward windows.
For rust prevention i would apply a layer of grease on the painted metal and then insulate. I live on a boat in the Netherlands and that is a common way to do that over here. Cheers from the river zwarte water in the Netherlands.
Hi Acid. We have to be super careful about fumes and toxicity in the interior of Brupeg so because of that we need to rely on paint with a fast off gas time and or very low VOC’s.
Okay so i could imagine that grease would not work for you. Keep up the good work and good luck to you all.
Thanks mate
Great work looking mint mate
Thanks very much!
Progress is being made but I sense there are a few more years of work ahead for the crew of brupeg before she's a safe and capable vessel able to safely ply the vast waters of this planet.
The bulk of the internal fit out will be in the water. Safe and comfortable are two different things, we'll be sea worthy in 6-12 months and comfortable within 2 years. Cheers Jess
Love these! Keep them coming, great job!
Thanks Beanbag, Glad to have you along
Are you guys going to insulate behind the instrument panel and around the windows? Are you going to seal the seams for the insulation to stop condesation from outside surface?
Hi Phil. Yes to both, behind the instruments is getting 120mm of polystyrene and between the windows (behind the soon to be installed mullion shrouds) will be getting filled solid with insulation as well. We are really conscious that any exposed steel will create lots of condensation and the last place we want in running is behind our instruments!
Ya need to seal that pine with ploy resin it's going on wick up moisture
Hi Tony, yeah we went through and sealed all wood with two coats of International Everdure and then anything exposed to UV is getting a few coats of Jotun Hard Top.
Do you think it’s a bit over engineered? More weight more fuel ... looks awesome btw
It is but it’s because we needed to build the dash in modular blocks. All up the wood work weighs maybe 10kg. Brupeg weighs close to 70t when launched so it’s unlikely we would notice a few kegs difference
Gonna be beautiful with all of the woodwork finished and all of your gauges,switches and controls.Is the area on the port side of the helm going to be your chart table?
Yes that correct. we have given ourselves as large a chart table as we can fit so we can spread the A0 charts out without having to jam then up or fold them over.
You have enough room above for a rack of thin-wall PVC tubes 50 mm ID to stow the current ones away from the action. Should be easy to make with two lengths of plank, a hole saw and the tubing.
Yeah that’s not a bad idea. Thanks for that
I have a bunch of old "refit your yacht on the cheap" books from the '70s and '80s, back when you could buy a "bare hull" and finish it the way you wanted (because a lot of yachties had the skills to do so). I'm pretty sure it's, therefore, not my idea, but it's a handy one!
Are the instrument screens angled for ease of view or are they vertical
Yes they are using PC screen mounts so they are adjustable left right up down
Great minds...
My SV SEEKER coin collection will arrive with this mornings mail. The BRUPEG coin should be in my mailbox in about a week. Look for pictures on Facebook
That's awesome to hear, yes please send us a pic as we are really proud of our supporters and always want to say thanks! I cant wait to receive ours, (you will have one before we do!!!)
I also ordered a batch of coins. I'll be picking up a Brupeg coin in a few weeks as well. I'm always late to the game, so you will both probably get your coins first.
Lol. Thanks for the support guys!
I would recommend not putting a screen such as your plotter depth sounder or radar rite in front of your wheel. Put them off to the side. They kill your night vision. It’s kinda a pain when coming into a tight spot. You’ll be leaning forward trying to get your eyes in front of the screens so you can see. Also I’m a big fan of NEC screens they are the best I have found for dimming down enough for use at night.
Ok thanks for that info. I will look into those screens. Cheers
Another alternative is to mount them on armatures bolted to the pilothouse roof or the metal over the windows. By armatures, I mean the sort of hinged, lockable mounts you see in bars and airports for display screens. When not in use, you can push them screen up to the roof and lash them in with a shock cord or a clip. Frees up helm space and you can have a smaller screen if you can, in essence, plonk it closer to your face in the first place. I plan on mounting my radar display this way to keep the helm more open for charts and to keep the cabling neater (inside the roof, actually).
Yeah we will be doing this for our editing screens that sit over the Nav seat
Yeah I’m going to sit in the skippers chair and ponder screen placement. We need to get this right so an hour of staring and thinking will save a lot of swearing later on.
Steel Boat Adventures - Building Brupeg you can see my screen set up in the first few seconds of my crab 2014 video on my channel
Cup holders? No, I'm not joking, where are the "gimballed",or not, cup holders going? Where are you going to keep your courtesy, and other, flags?
Hi James, We will be mounting cup holders into the center console so they are always within reach. I'm a man that takes coffee far too seriously to not have good cup holders. As for courtesy flags, we are not that formal and as yet have never needed to welcome any dignitaries on board such that they would need courtesy flags to herald their arrival. That said it is now common knowledge that Trump can give as little as 24hrs notice before he just turns up, in which case we have a pirate flag at the ready.
By courtesy flags I mean the national flags of the port's country flown when visiting foreign climes. I'm led to believe it's an old tradition and may not be done so much any more......
As Wikipedia states it ..... "A courtesy flag (or courtesy ensign) is flown by a visiting ship in foreign waters as a token of respect. It is often a small (that is, smaller than the ship's own national ensign) national maritime flag of the host country, although there are countries (such as Malta) where the national, rather than the maritime flag is correct. The flag is customarily worn at the foremasthead of multi-masted vessels, the dockside yardarm or crosstree of the mast of single-masted vessels, while the house flag would be outboard. It may be flown from the jackstaff of vessels without masts."
looking good 👍 but Rx7 makes some good points
Hi Bill
Spray foam would have been great but isn't an option for us. we run the numbers on everything else and poly came out best on all metrics. That said, the rigid boards will be pressed firmly against the steel, and all seams will be foil taped to stop air flow, and a second layer of polystyrene goes over top of all that. Then interior panels. We know its a compromise but we think we should be able to manage the air leakage with this method.
As we say in Tassie.. she'll be apples 🍏👍
I was getting nervous at how long the music was playing for... RUclips can be pretty overbearing with music detection.
Hi Madison, What do you mean by RUclips music detection? we are always trying to improve and this is something I've not heard off.
I've heard a lot of youtubers say that they had to turn off music in the background, or if they play a clip, keep it really short. Otherwise youtube might flag the video as having copyrighted material in it (and I think that means it gets demonetized). So personally, I loved the music, I just got a little worried that the video would get auto-flagged.
Ahh, I see. We have had our videos flagged a number of times for music, however we pay for all of our music with a subscription service, so we own the rights to use it on our videos. So if we do get flagged (which does happen surprisingly often) we just supply our licensing details and the flag is dropped instantly. normally happens maybe once a month to put it in context.
Ah, ok, that's good to hear. I'll not worry in the future then. :)