Vans RV-6A battery powered tug
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- This is a homemade tug for the Vans RV-6A that I designed and made after looking at several other RUclips videos. I am open sourcing the information on the construction so that you can make your own. I am certain that this tug will work for the RV-9A with a mod to the lugs that pick up the nose gear as I checked this out on a friends -9A.
I will be doing a follow-up video on building the tug to provide some tips and tricks.
The parts list and drawing files are at the link below. I am not a mechanical drafter and the DXF files are meant to be useful but not a full mechanical drawing set. There is a PDF of the wiring diagram, and an Excel file with the parts list.
drive.google.c...
Thank you for watching
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One of the better designs and all parts are available. Thanks for the video, all well done!
Thanks Bill
Impressive! Thank you
Nicely Done! As I get older, I (my wife tells me) need a powered tug. This one looks very nice. Thanks for posting the info ... now to learn how to weld :-)
Even a cheap flux wire MIG will weld this stuff ok.
@@derdan20 Thanks Dan. I will probably scour the tool inventory of my friends and see if I will be able to mooch some welding time.
Excellent product and video!
Nice job! Thanks for posting!
very well built
This is really beautuful Dan. Thanks
Great job!
For those looking for #35 sprockets, the company I used seems to no longer carry these. Nitrosprocket does www.nitrochain.com/sprockets (not a sponsor)
Thanks for sharing. Very nice.
Love it!
Very nice!
Très belle réalisation , Bravo .. J aimerais bien le construire pour mon avion Antares SB1 en France , Cordialement Patrick Plançon
Merci.
Dan, I have to admit, I’ve been looking at quite a few homemade tug designs, and I have to say that yours is by far the best! One question, however, how far away is the motor from the wheel? Could a longer chain paired with a smaller sprocket work to increase torque?
The sprocket on the motor is the smallest I could find, so the wheel sprocket would have to increase in size, which might be possible. The tire clearance drove the spacing to the motor. Increasing the torque much has another associated issue, tire friction with the ground. It requires some down pressure when moving over the step at the edge of my hangar if the pavement is wet. I am aware of some using this tug on RV 10 so it has plenty of torque.
Very cool!
Nice tug you got there Dan!
I’m currently building my own one of these that I’m modifying for my C152. Thanks for uploading all the details to the Drive, they’ve been really helpful!
This might sound silly, but I’m self taught when it comes to electronics, and don’t understand what the two squiggly things are by the batteries on the wire diagram (labelled 5 and 15 respectively). What are they?
Thank you so much for all your help once again!
They are fuses. 15 is for 15Amp and 5 is 5amp. I just used ATO type fuse holders from the local auto supply.
Hi Dan, love your tug. What adapters did you use for the tug to fit your aircraft?
They were just machined round to fit the axle tubes on the wheel. The drawings will show the dimensions.
Very creative design Dan! How did you make only the sprocket and wheel rotate? Cannot see because the sprocket itself covers the area, but I believe you mentioned a welded bushing? Thank you and well done!
The sprocket is mounted on a bracket that is welded to the wheel. The wheel has bearings. The shaft is fixed.
@@derdan20 Thank you
I like your tug and I keep wondering if you’d offer it as a kit assembly. You can buy airplane kits but can’t find a Tug kit. I don’t have welder so I can’t do the metal work but I could assemble it. What do you think?
My partner in the airplane kept trying to get me to sell them. I am not really interested in coming out of retirement. 😊 If I had to produce a kit that included the welded parts, the cost including my labor would make it well over $1k. I might suggest you get a local metal fabricator to make the welded parts. They would probably be less expensive than me producing a kit. I am a slow welder.
Excellent project indeed Dan! I am a college student trying to do one of my own following your info. Any tips on how to work all the wiring of the tug's motor and battery? Thank you!
There is a wiring diagram on the google doc site along with the rest of the drawings. Look for the link in the description. All wiring that leaves the battery compartment is inside of the tubes. You need to predrill holes for the wire prior to wiring. Don’t forget to protect the wiring from wear at the holes.
Got it. Many thanks! @@derdan20
very nice !!! and thanks for sharing !!
If you built another, what would you do differently ?
Good question. The tug is used by myself and my partner. There is nothing that I think I would change. The folding of the handle is only beneficial for storage between uses and we haven’t ever had to use it. If I built it again I would probably keep it though.
@@derdan20 Nice to know... I'm in the process ( just starting ) of building one for my Tri-Pacer... I like yours, but because I'm in a very tight hangar, I've decided to build one that will have two wheels with a cradle w/lazy susan, to allow for sharper turns inside the hangar. I'm seriously thinking that I will also attempt to make wireless remote control.. why? you might ask, hmm .. good question 🙂.. Cheers!!
To turn sharply I simply lift up on the handle until the tire clears the ground and turn the tug like a tow bar. The beauty of the tug is the light weight.
Hi Dan. Great video on building your tug. What size wire do you use between the batteries?
14 awg . I need to add that to the wiring diagram
thank you so much for sharing !!! building one myself ! where did you buy the #35 chain sprocket for your MY1016Z motor ? many thanks !!!!!
If you follow the google drive link, one of the documents lists where I got everything. I understand from others that the sprocket might not available from the same source anymore, but a 40 chain (bicycle chain) should work ok. Sourcing the sprocket and chain parts took a lot of hunting.
@@derdan20 Thank you so much for sharing, found the docs!, adapting it for a piper arrow. Again, THANK YOU for sharing your project !
@@derdan20 I am almost finished with my version for the piper arrow II , wanted to refer your docs but the link for your documents doesn't seem to work? is it down?... Again Thanks for sharing the project !... Alex
@@2alejandro2008 Apparently RUclips once again changed security requirements and blocked links. I just did the process to reinstate links and they say it will take a day or 2. Please check back.
@@derdan20 thank you for your troubles ! would love to share pics of my finished project once complete . Thank You ! again.... Alex
Dan. Great tug you got there. Currently building one of these for my own RV-10, but I have a quick question.
The motor controller has lots of other wires for things like brakes and indicator lights, which obviously we don’t need for a tug. When you were putting it in the control box, did you just leave them all unconnected? Does this not create the issue of a short potentially?
Thanks for your comments. I just “capped and stowed” the unused connections that you mentioned. By capped and stowed, I mean cutting the connectors and excess wiring off and putting heat shrink on each individual wire. Leave the heat shrink extend a half inch beyond the end of the wire, then after shrinking, while the shrink tube is still hoe squeeze the excess with needle nose and the tube will seal. Yeah, the connectors for brake lights and such take a lot of space if you don’t cut them up.
Hey. The link to the plans at Google drive is not complete. Could up update it please. Super awesome project and I am looking for similar project to take on (Y)
RUclips changed something and now the link is truncated. Looking for a solution
The link issue has been resolved and the link to the drawings once again functions properly.
Hi Dan. How long are the spacers between the wheel adaptor and the big gear?
Not quite sure what spacers you are talking about. There is a .75” by 1.5” rectangular tube welded to the rim and the gear bolts directly to that. There are shaft collars on the axle shaft to keep the wheel positioned on the axle. Hope that helps.