The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/newtonmakes3/
You always have great videos and give good advice. So I signed up for the membership for WWGOA and I gotta say, I'm not impressed. I only watched a dozen videos, and read a few articles before deciding it wasn't worth my time. There was an article addressing powering a sawstop that directly contradicted itself twice, left me more confused than before. People pointed it out in the comments, no response to clarify. There was a video about how to calibrate the gauge on a tablesaw. The host cut a piece of wood, measured it, found out that the cut was perfect, then moved the settings anyway without explaining why. Made no sense, had no explanation. Also was not clarified when multiple people pointed it out in the comments. If I ran into this in 30 minutes on the site, I can't imagine what the rest of the content is like. At least I only lost a buck 50. 🤷♂️ I did find that they have a system setup to invite friends and family to share your membership, which I thought was really cool. Too bad I don't think the membership is worthwhile. I find much higher quality content on RUclips, including this channel!
My wife's favourite chopping board is a small face grain pine one our daughter made 25 years ago. Its surface is concave now but it still gets a lot of use. It's light, small, thin and loved!
..thanks for this excellent, and entertaining post...I'm going to lumber store today, on the way to other destinations, and picking up a 2x6x8 ft pine board. Am actually going to try an end grain board-first ever. Have already made a couple of bread boards out of re-claimed fir(from old elevator), and gotta tell you, they are holding up really well.
Most important tip is right at the beginning! Use Tight Grained wood (US viewers, read "lumber"). Also use "hard" maple. Personally I would have cut the original boards narrower then glue them up alternatively so when you do the end grain glue up, you get a much more interesting pattern. Also the more end grains the less likelihood of knife cut marks when in use. I also believe there will be less chance of warping occurring to the board down the track. But hey! It's your board & video... :-)
I appreciate the test that you have performed here, granted it's not a bulletproof one. With that said, I'm impressed. I have wondered for several years about making cutting boards out of pine/fir, but never put the thought to action. You, sir, have restarted that thought process, especially as how I work predominately with pine/fir wood. Thanks
My bread knife is a beast, it'll cut through the cutting board, workbench everything, hehe :-) This was actually a good comparison video. Thank you and enjoyed the comedy inlays, made it enjoyable to watch.
I have had an end grain Larch wood cutting board that I have use every day for over 5 years and it has held up extremely well. Additionally, being a soft wood it is easier on your knife blades. I prefer it to any hardwood cutting board. If you compare non-end grain cutting boards, hard wood would hold up better but be much rougher on your knives, more resistant to the board being cut. The principle is that with end grain the knife blade is splitting between the fibers, as opposed to cutting across the grain, which would wear your blade down faster. Thus for every day use a softer end grain board would be best for your knives.
I made a 2x4 end grain board a few years ago. It came out great. the issue is years later even with proper care its warped. I think 2x4 is not dry enough from the store to work without warping. In the video he said he had it in his shop for months before using I think that's smart.
Great idea, I personally would make two, maybe even 3, one for fruit and veg, one for raw meat, and then one for cooked meat. I know I'm fussy, but I used to be in charge of a kitchen.
Thank you, Billy! This was really interesting! And, really great to know also! I have noticed how easy it is to feel glue lines on end grain hardwood boards. It's really curious, I wonder why that happens!?!?! Any ideas? Anyone?!?
Funny you would pick this topic. I just used some doug fir to practice making end grain. I've only done 1 in the past and it didn't go well. Now I have a customer that wants a 18'' x 24'' x 2'' and I don't want to get all the way to the end and screw it up.
As a serving tray. Great. As a cutting board, I would never eat your food. Plenty of others have already said why. However, the concepts are the same correct wood sources. You can make great concepts of this but cutting spf and just dying /staining them before gluing up to get the design you desire.
From my experience, 10 years in the construction industry, and over 5 in hobbyist Woodcrafting. I have not ever experienced “treatment chemicals” in standard 2x4’s. The mills must disclaim any treatments that the wood goes through. He goes through an another video (probably 2 weeks ago) about how to read the stamps on wood. Where their milled, how their dried, and how their shipped. Really informative, if you haven’t seen it.
I feel like it should be pointed out that there is lumber sold as "treated" or "pressure treated" lumber that should not be used for food surfaces. They are treated with a chemical to prevent rot. As the other answer mentioned, they are labeled accordingly.
The reason people don’t use 2x4’s is that it’s a soft wood and will warp over time as well as those knife cuts will make dents over time which will expose the wood to the bacteria’s.
Could the warping in the maple be from air dried instead of kiln dried? I’ve heard air dried can absorb moisture much more than kiln dried since the cells are kind of damaged after the high heat of a kiln?? Love to hear others thoughts
Another interesting test would have been (or would be if you added it) is the sharpness of a knife after use. A lot of people think end-grain cutting boards or bamboo are great, but they can be murder on a knife's edge. I've debated making a edge grain board or pine like here for that reason.
end grain keeps your knife edge MUCH longer than face or edge grain, it's a little slower to work on but absolutely worth it for all of its many advantages
I really enjoy your videos. I do have a degree from WORD POLICE UNIVERSITY. Using the words RAISE and UP together gets you a ticket from this sworn officer. Just say raise. We all do it. 😊
Is it really made from pine or are you using pine as a term for generic construction lumber? I ask because I live in the Pine Tree State and pine is expensive.
The reason to use maple versus pine is that with heavy chopping and slicing, as with meat and chicken, the knife grooves in the maple are only going to be superficial as opposed to deeper cuts into the soft pine. Those deeper cuts harbor bacteria which are difficult to eliminate which is why restaurant codes effectively bar the use of any wood cutting boards in favor of artificial boards that do not sustain the same amount of damage. Moreover your knife skill are not those of an accomplished cook whose cuts would be much harder and more vigorous. As a woodworker and a cook I think you have created a board that would probably harbor more salmonella and other bacteria than I would be comfortable with. I'll stick to my hard maple boards.
Well. Plus. Pine or even hardwood like oak is actually an open grain. So every time to cut into the grain. The moisture runs deep into the length of the the grain. Whereas things like hard maple, walnut, and cherry are often used as all are hardwoods which was your original point but they also aren’t open grains. They are more like a bamboo. Their grains close off at whatever distance. Easier to maintain and keep clean. As a woodworker and cooker myself, I hope you knew all this or just were speaking to the lowest common denominator.
That’s not true. Wooden cutting boards are not banned in restaurants. That being said, you might live in a city that has some unnecessary ordinance that prohibits them in your local area, but overall they have been tested and found to be completely safe. Oak is ok as well. It’s naturally antibacterial and anti microbial.
@@Andi.Mitchell.Designs all the research that I have read, and I have done extensive has show oak isn’t safe. Just bc something is soft wood. Aka bamboo, doesn’t mean it bad for spreading bacteria vs the others. And just bc it’s hardwood. Aka oak, doesn’t mean it won’t spread more bacteria vs others.
I always thought using softwoods for preparing food would be unsafe for food consumption? I thought the juices of meat or other food would seep into the grain and eventually you'd get bacteria that could cause food contamination. This was the reason hard woods were used.
This was a great video...but that being said, the pine board will wear and deteriorate significantly faster with daily use. It will NOT stand the test of time
I hate to be that guy.... this looks great, BUT construction grade lumber (at least in AZ) is treated to repel bugs and water. Don't know if that's a safe board to "eat." Love your videos!
@@GolemGolem-h4m The question was about treatment of the lumber, but anyway: you can buy utensils, bowls, and boards made of pine all day, every day. And the video just showed that pine stood up to the cutting as well as the harder wood. Will it stand up as well after many years of use and washing? I imagine it won't, at least compared to something harder, but it's very much TBD. There's too much "common knowledge" that either a myth or otherwise misunderstood in woodworking, and I suspect this video was meant to challenge that. But if you have references about pine harboring bacteria, I'm happy to be proven wrong.
I'll be even MORE that guy.... cutting boards should ONLY be made from wood resistant to rot/mold/critters(bacteria) such as maple or acacia. In addition, cutting boards should ONLY be end grain ..... unless you like eating splinters with your dinner ....
@@--JD-- it doesn't "raise" in the sense of expansion like face grain, no... But it does straighten it out after sanding discs knock the fibers around. So in a sense it does raise the wood fibers to a level where they can be cut evenly.
@@--JD-- I did read it. It's incorrect on two fronts. The first I stated in my first comment. The second way it's wrong is because you let the water dry after you spray the water and before you sand. The water is gone when the oil hits it so you should not prevent deeper oil penetration at all.
The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/newtonmakes3/
ok
You always have great videos and give good advice. So I signed up for the membership for WWGOA and I gotta say, I'm not impressed. I only watched a dozen videos, and read a few articles before deciding it wasn't worth my time.
There was an article addressing powering a sawstop that directly contradicted itself twice, left me more confused than before. People pointed it out in the comments, no response to clarify.
There was a video about how to calibrate the gauge on a tablesaw. The host cut a piece of wood, measured it, found out that the cut was perfect, then moved the settings anyway without explaining why. Made no sense, had no explanation. Also was not clarified when multiple people pointed it out in the comments.
If I ran into this in 30 minutes on the site, I can't imagine what the rest of the content is like.
At least I only lost a buck 50. 🤷♂️
I did find that they have a system setup to invite friends and family to share your membership, which I thought was really cool. Too bad I don't think the membership is worthwhile.
I find much higher quality content on RUclips, including this channel!
My wife's favourite chopping board is a small face grain pine one our daughter made 25 years ago. Its surface is concave now but it still gets a lot of use. It's light, small, thin and loved!
..thanks for this excellent, and entertaining post...I'm going to lumber store today, on the way to other destinations, and picking up a 2x6x8 ft pine board.
Am actually going to try an end grain board-first ever.
Have already made a couple of bread boards out of re-claimed fir(from old elevator), and gotta tell you, they are holding up really well.
Thanks!
Most important tip is right at the beginning! Use Tight Grained wood (US viewers, read "lumber"). Also use "hard" maple.
Personally I would have cut the original boards narrower then glue them up alternatively so when you do the end grain glue up, you get a much more interesting pattern. Also the more end grains the less likelihood of knife cut marks when in use. I also believe there will be less chance of warping occurring to the board down the track. But hey! It's your board & video... :-)
I appreciate the test that you have performed here, granted it's not a bulletproof one. With that said, I'm impressed. I have wondered for several years about making cutting boards out of pine/fir, but never put the thought to action. You, sir, have restarted that thought process, especially as how I work predominately with pine/fir wood. Thanks
Hey - if nothing else, this makes for low-cost practice! ✌🏻🎨☕️
There’s a company in Eastern Canada that produces tamarack/Larch end grain boards. It’s a dense softwood and their boards are sold worldwide
My bread knife is a beast, it'll cut through the cutting board, workbench everything, hehe :-) This was actually a good comparison video. Thank you and enjoyed the comedy inlays, made it enjoyable to watch.
I have had an end grain Larch wood cutting board that I have use every day for over 5 years and it has held up extremely well. Additionally, being a soft wood it is easier on your knife blades. I prefer it to any hardwood cutting board. If you compare non-end grain cutting boards, hard wood would hold up better but be much rougher on your knives, more resistant to the board being cut. The principle is that with end grain the knife blade is splitting between the fibers, as opposed to cutting across the grain, which would wear your blade down faster. Thus for every day use a softer end grain board would be best for your knives.
I'm glad to see someone else who gets it lol
Thank you! I've gritted my teeth for years about people saying you *can't* make cutting boards out of pine. You damn well can and they're fine lol
I made a 2x4 end grain board a few years ago. It came out great. the issue is years later even with proper care its warped. I think 2x4 is not dry enough from the store to work without warping. In the video he said he had it in his shop for months before using I think that's smart.
Again great video. I do not make cutting boards but it was fun with good information to watch.
Well done, love the simplicity. I have made all of my boards out of hardwood. My next one will be pine like yours!
Funny, I've actually already made all of mine out of pine lol
Great idea, I personally would make two, maybe even 3, one for fruit and veg, one for raw meat, and then one for cooked meat. I know I'm fussy, but I used to be in charge of a kitchen.
if u used to run a kitchen professionally I would hope you would avoid using a pine cutting board at all cost...😟
Great video…. Showing beginners real word
Pretty interesting experiment, Billy! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Always wondered what people were buying those full twist lengths for in the local DIY store! Chopping boards!
What about the resin and pitch in pine. Over time I think that will effect the taste of food you cut on it
This
I think as long as you keep it well oils and waxed it wouldn’t be an issue.
Thank you, Billy! This was really interesting! And, really great to know also! I have noticed how easy it is to feel glue lines on end grain hardwood boards. It's really curious, I wonder why that happens!?!?! Any ideas? Anyone?!?
I can't say for sure why it seems easier to notice on end grain than face grain. I guess someone needs to drop some science on us.
Funny you would pick this topic. I just used some doug fir to practice making end grain. I've only done 1 in the past and it didn't go well. Now I have a customer that wants a 18'' x 24'' x 2'' and I don't want to get all the way to the end and screw it up.
You deserve more followers! Great video!
As a serving tray. Great. As a cutting board, I would never eat your food. Plenty of others have already said why. However, the concepts are the same correct wood sources. You can make great concepts of this but cutting spf and just dying /staining them before gluing up to get the design you desire.
That was very interesting and well done.
Any cutting-Board that passes the "Hummus test" is a good board
Quick question from a newer woodworker. Are there treatment chemicals in a standard 2x4 that might raise some concerns?
From my experience, 10 years in the construction industry, and over 5 in hobbyist Woodcrafting. I have not ever experienced “treatment chemicals” in standard 2x4’s. The mills must disclaim any treatments that the wood goes through. He goes through an another video (probably 2 weeks ago) about how to read the stamps on wood. Where their milled, how their dried, and how their shipped. Really informative, if you haven’t seen it.
I feel like it should be pointed out that there is lumber sold as "treated" or "pressure treated" lumber that should not be used for food surfaces. They are treated with a chemical to prevent rot. As the other answer mentioned, they are labeled accordingly.
No I don’t believe that there are any chems in them. There are in treated 2x4’s and those are for outdoor use.
The reason people don’t use 2x4’s is that it’s a soft wood and will warp over time as well as those knife cuts will make dents over time which will expose the wood to the bacteria’s.
Is it necessary to part up your 2x4 with a jig saw? Wouldn't it be slower with a butter knife?
Could the warping in the maple be from air dried instead of kiln dried? I’ve heard air dried can absorb moisture much more than kiln dried since the cells are kind of damaged after the high heat of a kiln?? Love to hear others thoughts
Another interesting test would have been (or would be if you added it) is the sharpness of a knife after use. A lot of people think end-grain cutting boards or bamboo are great, but they can be murder on a knife's edge. I've debated making a edge grain board or pine like here for that reason.
Actually the argument for end grain cutting boards is that the edge of your knife takes less damage compared to long/edge grain.
@@stenmin1234 plus, end grain is the LEAST likely to create splinters that end up in your food!
end grain keeps your knife edge MUCH longer than face or edge grain, it's a little slower to work on but absolutely worth it for all of its many advantages
👍👍as usual! Thanks. JimE
Love the humor. And honesty.
I made a cutting board out of pecan once. Within a month it looked like a wire brush was used on it.
It may cut... But will it keal?
"Like sanding a marshmallow." 😂😂😂
I really enjoy your videos.
I do have a degree from WORD POLICE UNIVERSITY. Using the words RAISE and UP together gets you a ticket from this sworn officer. Just say raise. We all do it. 😊
@3:49 looked done to me, lol.
Is it really made from pine or are you using pine as a term for generic construction lumber? I ask because I live in the Pine Tree State and pine is expensive.
The reason to use maple versus pine is that with heavy chopping and slicing, as with meat and chicken, the knife grooves in the maple are only going to be superficial as opposed to deeper cuts into the soft pine. Those deeper cuts harbor bacteria which are difficult to eliminate which is why restaurant codes effectively bar the use of any wood cutting boards in favor of artificial boards that do not sustain the same amount of damage. Moreover your knife skill are not those of an accomplished cook whose cuts would be much harder and more vigorous. As a woodworker and a cook I think you have created a board that would probably harbor more salmonella and other bacteria than I would be comfortable with. I'll stick to my hard maple boards.
maple and acacia are also supposed to be rot/bacteria/mold resistant.
You can also just cook your ford after cutting it and wax and oil it. A 2x is also great material to proactive on. Woodworkers are the snobbiest bunch
Well. Plus. Pine or even hardwood like oak is actually an open grain. So every time to cut into the grain. The moisture runs deep into the length of the the grain. Whereas things like hard maple, walnut, and cherry are often used as all are hardwoods which was your original point but they also aren’t open grains. They are more like a bamboo. Their grains close off at whatever distance. Easier to maintain and keep clean. As a woodworker and cooker myself, I hope you knew all this or just were speaking to the lowest common denominator.
That’s not true. Wooden cutting boards are not banned in restaurants. That being said, you might live in a city that has some unnecessary ordinance that prohibits them in your local area, but overall they have been tested and found to be completely safe.
Oak is ok as well. It’s naturally antibacterial and anti microbial.
@@Andi.Mitchell.Designs all the research that I have read, and I have done extensive has show oak isn’t safe. Just bc something is soft wood. Aka bamboo, doesn’t mean it bad for spreading bacteria vs the others. And just bc it’s hardwood. Aka oak, doesn’t mean it won’t spread more bacteria vs others.
Is that a pine cutting board 😂
Not pine no. That's a lower grade of wood in my opinion. Home Depot calls it white wood
pretty sure that's pine...
I always thought using softwoods for preparing food would be unsafe for food consumption? I thought the juices of meat or other food would seep into the grain and eventually you'd get bacteria that could cause food contamination. This was the reason hard woods were used.
you're 100% correct, please NEVER do this in real life...
This was a great video...but that being said, the pine board will wear and deteriorate significantly faster with daily use. It will NOT stand the test of time
nor should it ever be used to prepare food
I hate to be that guy.... this looks great, BUT construction grade lumber (at least in AZ) is treated to repel bugs and water. Don't know if that's a safe board to "eat."
Love your videos!
Was thinking the same thing is construction lumber ok for food?
If it's purely heat-treated -- which should be discernable from the stamps on every board, at least in the US -- then it should be fine.
@@4422011 Nope. Too soft. Harbors bacteria
@@GolemGolem-h4m The question was about treatment of the lumber, but anyway: you can buy utensils, bowls, and boards made of pine all day, every day. And the video just showed that pine stood up to the cutting as well as the harder wood. Will it stand up as well after many years of use and washing? I imagine it won't, at least compared to something harder, but it's very much TBD.
There's too much "common knowledge" that either a myth or otherwise misunderstood in woodworking, and I suspect this video was meant to challenge that. But if you have references about pine harboring bacteria, I'm happy to be proven wrong.
I'll be even MORE that guy.... cutting boards should ONLY be made from wood resistant to rot/mold/critters(bacteria) such as maple or acacia. In addition, cutting boards should ONLY be end grain ..... unless you like eating splinters with your dinner ....
Chummus test > all other tests
I would have a lot of trepidation cutting something like chicken on that! Bread or veggies, you are probably okay!
raising the grain... on end grain. is this really a thing? Not trying to be a tool. I ask legitimately looking for understanding.
End grain doesn't raise. All you do is fill the "straws" with water which will prevent deeper oil penetration...
@@--JD-- it doesn't "raise" in the sense of expansion like face grain, no... But it does straighten it out after sanding discs knock the fibers around. So in a sense it does raise the wood fibers to a level where they can be cut evenly.
@@AdLibsOvaErrthang I think you didn't read what I said...
@@--JD-- I did read it. It's incorrect on two fronts. The first I stated in my first comment. The second way it's wrong is because you let the water dry after you spray the water and before you sand. The water is gone when the oil hits it so you should not prevent deeper oil penetration at all.