Thanks for the vid. I have a couple of questions - why not start your steep in the boil kettle - appears to be one extra step for you. Also, you measure pH when cool and adjust after the cooling - have you found this better than when adding salts at the start?
@andrewbayley1689 You're welcome. I used to run the 2v system for a bit of fun. But now I just run the silver kettle or my Brewzilla as single vessels. As for the adjusting, I still do salt adjustments at the start to get my mash pH down to around 5.2-5.4, but the adjustments after the boil is to get the finished wort down to a foodsafe pH of 4.6 or below.
I understand that hops need alcohol to dissolve the oils during dry hopping. Some have suggested a tincture of hop oil concentrate like Hopzoil (or similar). Any opinions on that?
Alcohol is a great extraction solvent, though you can also make an alcohol free alternative using glycerine and water (3:1). I've not used the hopzoil or the Yakima products, but I have tried some hop extracts from 'HopZero'. I wasn't a fan of the results, so it wasn't something I revisited. There has been some great developments in the hop oil extract products in recent times, so I may look into it again at some point. I know some larger brewers have switched to using them in place of their dry hop to reduce enzyme activity (hop creep).
You can drink it right away if desired, or you can lager it further. I generally have it sit for 2-3 weeks while it's carbonating before I start drinking it. The extended lagering does help with the melanoidin malt in terms of it balancing out, as those bready/toasty notes can be quite prominent at the start, and will smooth right out to a malty flavour with age.
Thanks for you quest to give us good low alcohol beer :) Keep up the good work :)
You're welcome! Thank you very much. 🍺
Cheers! 🍻
Very nice 🍻
Love the recipe, looks like a nice practical one. I have reduced my batch sizes to this size as well, so it might be perfect to try!
Be sure to let us know how it turns out!
nice
Thanks for the vid. I have a couple of questions - why not start your steep in the boil kettle - appears to be one extra step for you. Also, you measure pH when cool and adjust after the cooling - have you found this better than when adding salts at the start?
@andrewbayley1689 You're welcome. I used to run the 2v system for a bit of fun. But now I just run the silver kettle or my Brewzilla as single vessels.
As for the adjusting, I still do salt adjustments at the start to get my mash pH down to around 5.2-5.4, but the adjustments after the boil is to get the finished wort down to a foodsafe pH of 4.6 or below.
I understand that hops need alcohol to dissolve the oils during dry hopping. Some have suggested a tincture of hop oil concentrate like Hopzoil (or similar). Any opinions on that?
Alcohol is a great extraction solvent, though you can also make an alcohol free alternative using glycerine and water (3:1).
I've not used the hopzoil or the Yakima products, but I have tried some hop extracts from 'HopZero'. I wasn't a fan of the results, so it wasn't something I revisited. There has been some great developments in the hop oil extract products in recent times, so I may look into it again at some point. I know some larger brewers have switched to using them in place of their dry hop to reduce enzyme activity (hop creep).
Great video! Do you lager this for 4-6 weeks as you would with an alcoholic Pilsner?
You can drink it right away if desired, or you can lager it further. I generally have it sit for 2-3 weeks while it's carbonating before I start drinking it. The extended lagering does help with the melanoidin malt in terms of it balancing out, as those bready/toasty notes can be quite prominent at the start, and will smooth right out to a malty flavour with age.