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So I hate to admit this in public, hopefully no one I know sees this, but I have redug a trench I have for water drainage at least twice (just a trench for now with no pipe) without any luck because I could not get the slope right!!!!Now I know how to do it right and I greatly appreciate this video!!!!
Invaluable! I wish math was taught with more real life application to not make it feel like students aren't just studying a bunch of numbers and techniques to simply pass a test. Applied problem solving math is where it's at.
Over the years I've help Professionals install at least 50 Septic Tanks using everything from String line to laser transits. I knew what the measurements where needed to get the proper 1½"-2 fall per foot, but I never the math equation. This was an eye opener for this old man 👍
@@markgettings1723 1/4 is easier, then its 1 inch for every 48 inches. Or 20 inches for 960 inches (80 feet). That is what I use for sch40 pvc. I think corrugated needs more slope. So 1.5 inches per 4 feet or 48 inches. So for 80feet, I would multiply 960 by 1.5 or 2 and divide by 48. 30 inches and 40 inches respectively for slope. Is that correct?
Irrespective of codes etc, you explained the basics very well & adjusting slopes higher to confirm with code etc is just icing on the cake. Some snooty “professionals” obviously don’t like this “spreading of knowledge” among the mere mortals & start crying, let them, keep up the great work 😊
Whoa, how I hate math. I will watch the completion video and hopefully that helps but so far you are explaining exactly what i need to know. I just need to know how to apply it to my situation and not confuse level to ground vs level to slope desired measurements.
Id like to thank you for the videos you put out. They are very well done and the way you explain things is great . I'm a very recent subscriber and I've already referenced your videos for one project and as the need arises will do the same as needed. Look forward to see how you do this drainage pipe.
More of a question from a true novice and a fan of your blog, if I may: where did the 1.25% come from, how was it calculated/arrived at? Thank you! Keep up the good work!
I believe 1.25% is the minimum slope for water to continuously flow through corrugated pipe. Smooth pipe is 1% minimum. For those of us living at sea level, those are important ratios😅at sea 1% is 1 inch for we very 4 feet or 48 inches. Easy to multiply that for runs.
With the pop-up at the downstream end there may be standing water at the downstream end and there may be a tendency for stuff to collect in the pipe there. Another type of outlet may be appropriate if you want to avoid that. Also, the top of the pop-up needs to be below the upstream end of the horizontal pipe for the water to flow through.
This is also my question. When computing the slope from the pop-up to the starting pipe location, we may count the bottom elevation of the pipe, but how about the elevation at pop-up? Should we use the top elevation of the pop-up or the bottom elevation of the pipe at the pop-up? Intuitively, it appears that we may need to consider the top elevation of the pop up or the pop-up cover elevation for computing slope, because water may accumulate at pop up. If this is the case, we will need a very large elevation difference from the upstream to the pop up. Any solution?
To me a simpler way would be, after leveling the string and after finding the slope that you want (1,25% or 6" of fall), lower the string 6" at the ending point and then dig the trench and maintain the same depth from the string (14") the whole way.
Ground wasn't level...he had a 2 inch rise above the start point which meant he wouldn't had been able to draw the string straight down to the 6 inch mark at the low end point.
@@mortalstorm if that was the case, he could simply raise the height of the string until he had the clearance. Still would be the same, high on one end with 6"of fall on the other end.
That exactly what i was thinking too. Not sure why such a huge amount of math and earth trenching is being put into this. Maybe this guy is a contractor, u know, make the job bigger to get bigger pay. I was thinking of the down spout mounted to the wall, a 90° elbow at the bottom just barely under the surface, glue the pipe u want into the elbow, and just make sure the end of the pipe and length of the pipe is lower than the elbow. Its only for when it rains, right? Doesnt need to be THIS involved with all the math and numbers.
nice video. But one thing I am not sure is about the pop-up end. When counting the slope from the pop-up to the starting pipe location, It is clear that for the starting location, we should count the bottom elevation of the pipe, but how about the elevation at pop-up? Should we use the top elevation of the pop-up cover or the bottom elevation of the pipe at the pop-up? Intuitively, it appears that we may need to consider the top elevation of the pop up or the pop-up cover elevation since water may accumulate at pop up and the water pressure at pop-up may need to be computed based on the pop-up cover elevation.
I have a line that just relies on Pascals laws and the concept of communicating vessels. Terrible flow, but in the end i have an area that would normally flood that ends up dry. If your slope sucks you can also just oversize the pipe knowing that the pipe is going to fill and move slower. Just don't use either concept for sewage lines or areas with lots of debris, sometimes you want that fast moving water 😁
Doing 100 ft diggs yours truly.. you can dig it like a staircase with long stairs but always approximately deeper than you need it... You can formulate the stairs and the length
Good teaching . I know this can also work for u- drains . But my question is what percentage will you include for the percentage. For instance in your example here you used a certain percentage for the diameter of the pipe . How much percentage do you have to add for a drain with 900mm diameter? Thanks for your cooperation.
Since you know where the pop-up is going to be located and the fact that it has to be six inches deep there, wouldn’t it be easier to work the calculations backward from there?
If I can find my laser level I may use that instead of string and line level between the stakes. I have a run that's over 70ft and don't trust that I could pull the string tight enough through the run. I've watched a lot of videos showing checking the piping with a level for slope. Not precise according to numbers, but a half or full bubble on a quality carpenter's level does not lie, either. Trouble is, ya kinda want to know if adequate slope is POSSIBLE before you dig AND where it'll daylight. You may be able to dig for say, 2% slope over a long run but if that daylights the water too low it's a new problem.
You used measurements every 9’ for a 36’ drain trench in your video. What measurement intervals would you use if your French drain trench was 140’ long?
Time is the investment when you dig a trench wide enough and approximately deeper than you need to.. use angle stations (pieces of flat brick or even turd if it's hard enough).. lock in angle required put dirt or feed sand underneath pipe or whatever drain pipe. Carefully fill trench back with dirt put a little water to make dirt emulsify.. carefully use stomper if need be....
Just curious, why not use rigid drain tile and use 1/8 in per ft for the slope? Also, how far away is necessary,? Wasn't it a tad overkill to go all the way to the city's sidewalk? Couldn't you have stopped 10 or 20 short of the sidewalk and still be far enough away?
Great article, but I have a question? How much dirt needs to be on top of the drainage line? I installed a 16 foot run, and placed about1.5" of dirt on top. After a rain the pipe came out of the ground in spots.
We're planning to have a sump pump and a gutter drain through the same drainage pipe what would the connection look like at the house before each one drains into the same pipe
While I understand the math , in reality the measurement "along the path" is matched to "the bubble" on an 8 foot level - it would be nice for you to convert your 1.25% to saying the bubble needs to be slightly out of the two vertical lines by just a hair (indicating you have slope along the path).
My challenge is that I'm digging my trench 56' to get from my flooded area down to the street. To get the slope at the right fall rate (not even very aggressive - 1/5" per foot), the pipe ends up way too far underground to even think about getting it to daylight at the street. In your video your pop-up emitter is nice and flush with the ground. Mine would be buried about 19" UNDER the ground. I am at a loss on what to do. Can't wrap my head around how to terminate this line.
I’m dealing with something similar. I’ve read you can use solid pvc pipe to extend from the drain pipe up 16 inches to the pop up and that when there’s not sufficient flow to open it for discharge the water will just leach into the elbow area below ground. It makes me nervous though because there’s not a lot to be found on how efficient that is. I’m trying to emit my water away from my foundation, where it’s causing heave to my house, to my back slope so it’ll feed a rain garden I’d like to install next spring but I’m afraid doing this will just move the over-saturation from the front to the backyard.
So, this video is for a pipe that leads to a pop out. However, I want to run a French drain into a basin, so do I need to dig down 10" and is the mathematical process the same?
Outstanding videos! I have a situation much different than the one described. The end of my run is actually higher than the starting point; not by much but visually higher. Am I able to use your technique to accomplish the same goal (getting down spout water away from the house). Please advise
This is the hard way to do it. The slope calcs are fine. I would simply dig out a trench and backfill/ tamp to get the correct measurement at each point. Adding or subtracting values can lead to math errors. I’d keep it simple…
I'm sooo new to all of this and completely confused by the numbers. What is your best suggestion for me basically living on a hill, but the neighbors yard leeches into mine, in the back then just pools in one area of my yard. All of my gutters are crap and need replaced, then I am going to have to dig some trenches and either lay French drains or pipe. My yard to the road is maybe 45 to 50ft. From what I have seen on so many of these videos, the French drain or pipe should be taken I to consideration whe. Calculating the length of the yard. The more I think about it, the .ore I think k I need to pay someone... Want a job?
Good idea but is there a way could you take the excess rainwater to reroute it to the garden that isn't close to the house without ruining the foundation and what are your thought on french driains?
I have a concern with the pop-up emitters. It seems that you will always have some water that will remain at the end of the pipe. These things do leak a little, I suppose it would leak out, right? Can't have standing water....
Dig a well under the pop-up sized for a five gallon bucket. Place the bucket in the well, and fill with crushed stone. Drill a small hole (1/8"-1/4") in the bottom of the elbow up for the pop-up. You'll also need to drill the bottom of the bucket in several places to allow drainage, and figure out a way to use the bucket cover with the pop-up to minimize dirt infiltration.
My yard is 220’ long ,it’s about 170’ to the front side of house and approximately another 50’ to sidewalk to add a French drain I would have to dig quite deep by the time I reached front of house , I will have to take elevation of yard ,thanks
So the plan it to have the pipe full of water at all times? You mention that the popup emmitter is aprox 6-8" tall. In your case with a 6" drop it will never empty the line. If the emitter is 6" tall you will exactly fill the line with water. You will then likely have it back up when junk gets caught behint the popup. I love it when folks have the sump and multiple gutters tied into 1 line. When it gets plugged the geyser out the gutter down spouts are hilarious. You already have a downward slope near the sidewalk. Just use a small patch of rocks or such to let the 4" pipe drain. Use a couple bigger rocks to hide the pipe. If you want it really nice landscape a dry creek bed for it to drain out of. Block the water egress as little as possible. Lastly if you ever have ice on the ground please do not drain onto the sidewalk. That is asking for a lawsuit.
Question. How do you do when you have a flat yard and the calculation of the slope of the drywell is deeper than drain basin? Do you add an extention pipe to the drywell so that the drain basin is level with the surface of the yard?
That's great. It's exactly what I was looking for. We'll done buddy. How do we decide on the slope? In your case you wanted a 1.25 slope, why? In my case I am building a retaining wall 3.5 feet high and 39 feet long. Should I go %2 or %3 or even %1 slope. Thanks for your help and time.
I'm sooo new to this... I won't be installing a drainage pipe, but I need to work on the narrow strips (law ) on both sides of my house when Ievel my front lawn, because water paddles everywhere in the narrow strips. I am trying to learn slope on RUclips. I assume your video can be applied to what I need to do..although I think that my challenge is that the starting point (around downspout back side of narrow strip) seems to be a bit lower than the end of front lawn. its up n down from the front lawn all the way to the back on the end of narrow strip. I bought some strings and string levels. I'm confused how I can make a proper slope for water drainage from downspout to the end of front lawn. total distance is about 70 ft. Any advice would be appreciated..!!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes I have watched the other video :) helpful information. I understand the concept.. Due to lack of time and manpower, I don't think I can make too much of change at the backside(end) of narrow strip which is a hit higher than the other side (backyard) over the fence, and a bit lower than front lawn. Referring your videos I will do what I can to improve at least the spots where water paddles so bad and smooth out surface . it's difficult to mow with reel mower too. eekks!
I agree a 1% to 1.25% slope on outdoor drainage pipe is ideal, but here is a piece of advise for those with yards with no slope…….you don’t need any slope in the drainage pipe as long as the discharge is lower than any other point in the system. I’ve done this a handful of times with no problems. (Buildup may occur over time, but that’s nothing a garden hose can’t fix) I always try for at least 1%, but sometimes this is impossible. My current drainage system at my home only has 6” of elevation change over 150’. Since installation I’ve had tsunami like storms and it kept up with all the surface and roof water with no issues. Long story short…. Get the slope if you have it, but don’t worry if you only have a few inch elevation change. It’s gonna work. Water always goes to the lowest point. Believe it or not, It will even go uphill if the lowest point is after it. Head pressure
what if my yard is flat and i have no slope please help me out how do i install the pop up at the end of the trench should i start rising the trench towards the end?
Ultimately bubble bubble bubble.. how to know how to measure.. how to check? .. A level... If we have to skip and jump rope at the same time while using the level tool that's where we're going to be skipping and jumping and hopscotching to.
1.25% slope for 4inch corrugated pipe is not sufficient to consider the system self-cleaning. To achieve the 3fps required to be self-cleaning 4inch corrugated needs 2.8% slope. You haven't yet read all of your pipe manufacturer's installation recommendations.
Mr Slacker appreciate the feedback do you have a link you can share which gives more info on the 2.8% desire slope or the desired velocity of water? I will be installing an easy to access cleanout so I not too concerned but also want to provide the best info. Thanks!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Posting links gets my comments auto-deleted. You can see graphs in the ADS, Inc. Drainage Handbook & Charts for slopes from NDS's website. IDK how to share it on YT without getting deleted but you should be able to find it in an online-search.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Plumbing Never More than 1/8" per foot for indoor plumbing, and no more than 1/4" per foot for drainage. And this stuff is in IPC and UPC. Forget what Bob says. 1/8" per foot is 1% and 1/4" per foot is 2.1%. All I know is I'm not all that big of fan of a landlord or property manager doing a tradesman's job if they don't know what they are doing. I'd sure like to hear this guy referencing NEC, IRC or UPC if he's gonna be fiddling with this stuff and spreading knowledge.
Why do you set the check point at 9 feet not 10 feet? It seems that the drop you used (-1.5 every check point) is calculated from a 10 feet run (10 x 12 = 120, 120 * 0.0125 = 1.5"), not a 9 feet run.
The total length of his run was 36 feet. He rounded up to a total drop in elevation of 6 inches. 25% of 36 feet is 9 ft. 25% of 6 inches is 1.5 inches.
Dude....help me understand. Since you are trenching and laying pipe.....why not just trench and ensure you have 6 inches from start to end (making sure you have a level line from start pt). Then trench 6 inches dwn.
Yeah, I pushed the slope as much as I could balancing having some ground on top of the pipe at the start at getting within 6"-8" at the end to use the popup. Like usual a bit of a balancing act but I feel good about a little over 1.25% slope 👍
Teacher got class at tafe to watch this video just then but Nothing makes sense in this video as you are not using metric system.... and Ross didn't help me with the conversions
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So I hate to admit this in public, hopefully no one I know sees this, but I have redug a trench I have for water drainage at least twice (just a trench for now with no pipe) without any luck because I could not get the slope right!!!!Now I know how to do it right and I greatly appreciate this video!!!!
Invaluable! I wish math was taught with more real life application to not make it feel like students aren't just studying a bunch of numbers and techniques to simply pass a test. Applied problem solving math is where it's at.
Over the years I've help Professionals install at least 50 Septic Tanks using everything from String line to laser transits. I knew what the measurements where needed to get the proper 1½"-2 fall per foot, but I never the math equation. This was an eye opener for this old man 👍
No laser equipment when septic tanks were used, lol
it’s not 1 1/2” ta 2” per ft. It’s 1/8 or .125 decimal equivalence of fall per ft.
@@markgettings1723 1/4 is easier, then its 1 inch for every 48 inches. Or 20 inches for 960 inches (80 feet). That is what I use for sch40 pvc. I think corrugated needs more slope. So 1.5 inches per 4 feet or 48 inches. So for 80feet, I would multiply 960 by 1.5 or 2 and divide by 48. 30 inches and 40 inches respectively for slope. Is that correct?
The suggestion of using a 2 x 4 to ensure a smooth surface between the checkpoints is ingenious! Thanks for a great video.
Irrespective of codes etc, you explained the basics very well & adjusting slopes higher to confirm with code etc is just icing on the cake. Some snooty “professionals” obviously don’t like this “spreading of knowledge” among the mere mortals & start crying, let them, keep up the great work 😊
You are the real MVP when landscaping companies won't call me back!
I have been searching for an explanation all day. Finally found one tha5 makes sense. Great job
You are a great teacher, we need teachers like you in our schools. Thanks for the info!!!
Whoa, how I hate math. I will watch the completion video and hopefully that helps but so far you are explaining exactly what i need to know. I just need to know how to apply it to my situation and not confuse level to ground vs level to slope desired measurements.
Id like to thank you for the videos you put out. They are very well done and the way you explain things is great . I'm a very recent subscriber and I've already referenced your videos for one project and as the need arises will do the same as needed.
Look forward to see how you do this drainage pipe.
Thanks James, really appreciate the kind words and support. Welcome to the channel 👍
More of a question from a true novice and a fan of your blog, if I may: where did the 1.25% come from, how was it calculated/arrived at? Thank you! Keep up the good work!
I believe 1.25% is the minimum slope for water to continuously flow through corrugated pipe. Smooth pipe is 1% minimum. For those of us living at sea level, those are important ratios😅at sea 1% is 1 inch for we very 4 feet or 48 inches. Easy to multiply that for runs.
With the pop-up at the downstream end there may be standing water at the downstream end and there may be a tendency for stuff to collect in the pipe there. Another type of outlet may be appropriate if you want to avoid that. Also, the top of the pop-up needs to be below the upstream end of the horizontal pipe for the water to flow through.
This is also my question. When computing the slope from the pop-up to the starting pipe location, we may count the bottom elevation of the pipe, but how about the elevation at pop-up? Should we use the top elevation of the pop-up or the bottom elevation of the pipe at the pop-up? Intuitively, it appears that we may need to consider the top elevation of the pop up or the pop-up cover elevation for computing slope, because water may accumulate at pop up. If this is the case, we will need a very large elevation difference from the upstream to the pop up. Any solution?
Thanks from Ethiopia 🇪🇹🇪🇹🇪🇹🇪🇹
Nice, thanks for watching 🙌
To me a simpler way would be, after leveling the string and after finding the slope that you want (1,25% or 6" of fall), lower the string 6" at the ending point and then dig the trench and maintain the same depth from the string (14") the whole way.
Ground wasn't level...he had a 2 inch rise above the start point which meant he wouldn't had been able to draw the string straight down to the 6 inch mark at the low end point.
@@mortalstorm if that was the case, he could simply raise the height of the string until he had the clearance. Still would be the same, high on one end with 6"of fall on the other end.
That exactly what i was thinking too. Not sure why such a huge amount of math and earth trenching is being put into this. Maybe this guy is a contractor, u know, make the job bigger to get bigger pay.
I was thinking of the down spout mounted to the wall, a 90° elbow at the bottom just barely under the surface, glue the pipe u want into the elbow, and just make sure the end of the pipe and length of the pipe is lower than the elbow. Its only for when it rains, right? Doesnt need to be THIS involved with all the math and numbers.
@@johnperez93640 he does all this because he only need to dig like 5 feet from his house to the sidewalk.
@@johnperez93640No, you do the math so you can calculate materials and cost BEFORE you purchase. This holds true for both pro and DIY.
nice video. But one thing I am not sure is about the pop-up end. When counting the slope from the pop-up to the starting pipe location, It is clear that for the starting location, we should count the bottom elevation of the pipe, but how about the elevation at pop-up? Should we use the top elevation of the pop-up cover or the bottom elevation of the pipe at the pop-up? Intuitively, it appears that we may need to consider the top elevation of the pop up or the pop-up cover elevation since water may accumulate at pop up and the water pressure at pop-up may need to be computed based on the pop-up cover elevation.
I have a line that just relies on Pascals laws and the concept of communicating vessels. Terrible flow, but in the end i have an area that would normally flood that ends up dry. If your slope sucks you can also just oversize the pipe knowing that the pipe is going to fill and move slower. Just don't use either concept for sewage lines or areas with lots of debris, sometimes you want that fast moving water 😁
And of course the consideration of shurings formulaic shelfing or sloping if trench is a life-preserving concern
Doing 100 ft diggs yours truly.. you can dig it like a staircase with long stairs but always approximately deeper than you need it... You can formulate the stairs and the length
Good teaching . I know this can also work for u- drains . But my question is what percentage will you include for the percentage. For instance in your example here you used a certain percentage for the diameter of the pipe . How much percentage do you have to add for a drain with 900mm diameter? Thanks for your cooperation.
How did you dispose of the left over dirt on top of your plastic…the dirt displaced by the black pipe? Ty ❤
Fantastic video! I learned something so Thank You!
Thanks for the support Melinda!
Since you know where the pop-up is going to be located and the fact that it has to be six inches deep there, wouldn’t it be easier to work the calculations backward from there?
If I can find my laser level I may use that instead of string and line level between the stakes. I have a run that's over 70ft and don't trust that I could pull the string tight enough through the run.
I've watched a lot of videos showing checking the piping with a level for slope. Not precise according to numbers, but a half or full bubble on a quality carpenter's level does not lie, either. Trouble is, ya kinda want to know if adequate slope is POSSIBLE before you dig AND where it'll daylight. You may be able to dig for say, 2% slope over a long run but if that daylights the water too low it's a new problem.
You used measurements every 9’ for a 36’ drain trench in your video. What measurement intervals would you use if your French drain trench was 140’ long?
Time is the investment when you dig a trench wide enough and approximately deeper than you need to.. use angle stations (pieces of flat brick or even turd if it's hard enough).. lock in angle required put dirt or feed sand underneath pipe or whatever drain pipe. Carefully fill trench back with dirt put a little water to make dirt emulsify.. carefully use stomper if need be....
I think possible precautionary concerns are worth mentioning as extreme at that necessity may be
Just curious, why not use rigid drain tile and use 1/8 in per ft for the slope? Also, how far away is necessary,? Wasn't it a tad overkill to go all the way to the city's sidewalk? Couldn't you have stopped 10 or 20 short of the sidewalk and still be far enough away?
Hey thanks for the video. What if my catch basin went too low. I now need to go super low to the storm drain 😅
Great article, but I have a question? How much dirt needs to be on top of the drainage line? I installed a 16 foot run, and placed about1.5" of dirt on top. After a rain the pipe came out of the ground in spots.
Bury pipe at least 6 inches.
We're planning to have a sump pump and a gutter drain through the same drainage pipe what would the connection look like at the house before each one drains into the same pipe
While I understand the math , in reality the measurement "along the path" is matched to "the bubble" on an 8 foot level - it would be nice for you to convert your 1.25% to saying the bubble needs to be slightly out of the two vertical lines by just a hair (indicating you have slope along the path).
My challenge is that I'm digging my trench 56' to get from my flooded area down to the street. To get the slope at the right fall rate (not even very aggressive - 1/5" per foot), the pipe ends up way too far underground to even think about getting it to daylight at the street. In your video your pop-up emitter is nice and flush with the ground. Mine would be buried about 19" UNDER the ground. I am at a loss on what to do. Can't wrap my head around how to terminate this line.
I’m dealing with something similar. I’ve read you can use solid pvc pipe to extend from the drain pipe up 16 inches to the pop up and that when there’s not sufficient flow to open it for discharge the water will just leach into the elbow area below ground. It makes me nervous though because there’s not a lot to be found on how efficient that is. I’m trying to emit my water away from my foundation, where it’s causing heave to my house, to my back slope so it’ll feed a rain garden I’d like to install next spring but I’m afraid doing this will just move the over-saturation from the front to the backyard.
I think u need a dump pump system
ROCKS Lots and lots of rocks. 36 inches below and 36 inches to the left and right of your perforated ending elbow. @@lilakaye1505
So, this video is for a pipe that leads to a pop out. However, I want to run a French drain into a basin, so do I need to dig down 10" and is the mathematical process the same?
Great Video series.
Outstanding videos! I have a situation much different than the one described. The end of my run is actually higher than the starting point; not by much but visually higher. Am I able to use your technique to accomplish the same goal (getting down spout water away from the house). Please advise
This is the hard way to do it. The slope calcs are fine. I would simply dig out a trench and backfill/ tamp to get the correct measurement at each point. Adding or subtracting values can lead to math errors. I’d keep it simple…
I'm sooo new to all of this and completely confused by the numbers. What is your best suggestion for me basically living on a hill, but the neighbors yard leeches into mine, in the back then just pools in one area of my yard. All of my gutters are crap and need replaced, then I am going to have to dig some trenches and either lay French drains or pipe. My yard to the road is maybe 45 to 50ft. From what I have seen on so many of these videos, the French drain or pipe should be taken I to consideration whe. Calculating the length of the yard. The more I think about it, the .ore I think k I need to pay someone... Want a job?
Great explanation man !!!
Thanks!
Good idea but is there a way could you take the excess rainwater to reroute it to the garden that isn't close to the house without ruining the foundation and what are your thought on french driains?
Sounds doable, are you looking to use the excess water for irrigation for the garden?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs yes this is an idea that should be used by everyone too.
I have a concern with the pop-up emitters. It seems that you will always have some water that will remain at the end of the pipe. These things do leak a little, I suppose it would leak out, right? Can't have standing water....
Dig a well under the pop-up sized for a five gallon bucket. Place the bucket in the well, and fill with crushed stone. Drill a small hole (1/8"-1/4") in the bottom of the elbow up for the pop-up. You'll also need to drill the bottom of the bucket in several places to allow drainage, and figure out a way to use the bucket cover with the pop-up to minimize dirt infiltration.
Perfect. Thank you for sharing
Good explanation - very direct.
How much slope should there be for a corrugated drainage pipe that has slits cut into it?
Can it be laid level?
@@DVul Thank you. I gave it a bit more for good measure.
My yard is 220’ long ,it’s about 170’ to the front side of house and approximately another 50’ to sidewalk to add a French drain I would have to dig quite deep by the time I reached front of house , I will have to take elevation of yard ,thanks
Easy to understand, thanks
You bet!
So the plan it to have the pipe full of water at all times?
You mention that the popup emmitter is aprox 6-8" tall. In your case with a 6" drop it will never empty the line. If the emitter is 6" tall you will exactly fill the line with water. You will then likely have it back up when junk gets caught behint the popup. I love it when folks have the sump and multiple gutters tied into 1 line. When it gets plugged the geyser out the gutter down spouts are hilarious.
You already have a downward slope near the sidewalk. Just use a small patch of rocks or such to let the 4" pipe drain. Use a couple bigger rocks to hide the pipe.
If you want it really nice landscape a dry creek bed for it to drain out of. Block the water egress as little as possible.
Lastly if you ever have ice on the ground please do not drain onto the sidewalk. That is asking for a lawsuit.
For the popup 90-degree fitting it has a small weep hole that will allow any standing water to slowly drain to avoid this issue.
Question. How do you do when you have a flat yard and the calculation of the slope of the drywell is deeper than drain basin? Do you add an extention pipe to the drywell so that the drain basin is level with the surface of the yard?
That's great. It's exactly what I was looking for. We'll done buddy.
How do we decide on the slope? In your case you wanted a 1.25 slope, why? In my case I am building a retaining wall 3.5 feet high and 39 feet long. Should I go %2 or %3 or even %1 slope. Thanks for your help and time.
Are you just placing a perforated pipe behind the base of the retaining wall as a french drain?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I am using a 4 inch perforated corrugated pipe
@@EverydayHomeRepairs and it is behind the second row of AB blocks. It will be a 5 rows of blocks high
Great video and info!
I'm sooo new to this...
I won't be installing a drainage pipe, but I need to work on the narrow strips (law ) on both sides of my house when Ievel my front lawn, because water paddles everywhere in the narrow strips.
I am trying to learn slope on RUclips. I assume your video can be applied to what I need to do..although I think that my challenge is that the starting point (around downspout back side of narrow strip) seems to be a bit lower than the end of front lawn. its up n down from the front lawn all the way to the back on the end of narrow strip.
I bought some strings and string levels. I'm confused how I can make a proper slope for water drainage from downspout to the end of front lawn. total distance is about 70 ft.
Any advice would be appreciated..!!
Have you seen the other video that goes more in depth on using the line level? ruclips.net/video/viD9Xdlg7wI/видео.html
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes I have watched the other video :) helpful information. I understand the concept..
Due to lack of time and manpower, I don't think I can make too much of change at the backside(end) of narrow strip which is a hit higher than the other side (backyard) over the fence, and a bit lower than front lawn. Referring your videos I will do what I can to improve at least the spots where water paddles so bad and smooth out surface . it's difficult to mow with reel mower too.
eekks!
Thank you so much! You saved me. I can do this now! :)
What shoukd be the depth for french drain for the yard??
Well done!
Thanks! Working on the larger video for the actual project today. More to come 👍
I can do some home repairs however there are some repairs I would not be comfortable doing. Who would I need to hire for this job.
Thank you
Many landscaping companies in my area will do the donwspout extension projects. Get ready it might be a bit pricey because of the labor involved.
I agree a 1% to 1.25% slope on outdoor drainage pipe is ideal, but here is a piece of advise for those with yards with no slope…….you don’t need any slope in the drainage pipe as long as the discharge is lower than any other point in the system. I’ve done this a handful of times with no problems. (Buildup may occur over time, but that’s nothing a garden hose can’t fix) I always try for at least 1%, but sometimes this is impossible. My current drainage system at my home only has 6” of elevation change over 150’. Since installation I’ve had tsunami like storms and it kept up with all the surface and roof water with no issues. Long story short…. Get the slope if you have it, but don’t worry if you only have a few inch elevation change. It’s gonna work. Water always goes to the lowest point. Believe it or not, It will even go uphill if the lowest point is after it. Head pressure
how did you arrive at that starting depth of 14"?
Great video.
You know where you put that constant 14" ... how would I find my number if my pipe is actually 4" above ground instead of being below ground??
Damnation! If only I had known what it takes to put in a french drain for my driveway, I would have studied harder at math! 😝
What makes you get the number 1.25. I didnt hear an explanation
what if my yard is flat and i have no slope please help me out how do i install the pop up at the end of the trench should i start rising the trench towards the end?
omg thank you so much... You rock man
What if its for sch 80 pvc how would you calculate that?
Is an 11% slope to much?
Rise = 14-inches, distance = 125 inches
Good expln
Ultimately bubble bubble bubble.. how to know how to measure.. how to check? .. A level... If we have to skip and jump rope at the same time while using the level tool that's where we're going to be skipping and jumping and hopscotching to.
What?
1.25% slope for 4inch corrugated pipe is not sufficient to consider the system self-cleaning. To achieve the 3fps required to be self-cleaning 4inch corrugated needs 2.8% slope. You haven't yet read all of your pipe manufacturer's installation recommendations.
Mr Slacker appreciate the feedback do you have a link you can share which gives more info on the 2.8% desire slope or the desired velocity of water? I will be installing an easy to access cleanout so I not too concerned but also want to provide the best info. Thanks!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Posting links gets my comments auto-deleted. You can see graphs in the ADS, Inc. Drainage Handbook & Charts for slopes from NDS's website. IDK how to share it on YT without getting deleted but you should be able to find it in an online-search.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs The problem with relying on clean-outs is that they're useless if the pipe clogs during the storm.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Plumbing Never More than 1/8" per foot for indoor plumbing, and no more than 1/4" per foot for drainage. And this stuff is in IPC and UPC. Forget what Bob says. 1/8" per foot is 1% and 1/4" per foot is 2.1%. All I know is I'm not all that big of fan of a landlord or property manager doing a tradesman's job if they don't know what they are doing. I'd sure like to hear this guy referencing NEC, IRC or UPC if he's gonna be fiddling with this stuff and spreading knowledge.
Great !!!
Why do you set the check point at 9 feet not 10 feet? It seems that the drop you used (-1.5 every check point) is calculated from a 10 feet run (10 x 12 = 120, 120 * 0.0125 = 1.5"), not a 9 feet run.
The total length of his run was 36 feet. He rounded up to a total drop in elevation of 6 inches. 25% of 36 feet is 9 ft. 25% of 6 inches is 1.5 inches.
Dude....help me understand. Since you are trenching and laying pipe.....why not just trench and ensure you have 6 inches from start to end (making sure you have a level line from start pt). Then trench 6 inches dwn.
Why is not ideal to put an extension pipe
I never used this equation
Just simply going 2 Inches for every 20 feet pipe.
How about a slope level buddy?
💖❤️Nice💕💞
so 1/4 inch per foot is out the window eh?
Yeah, I pushed the slope as much as I could balancing having some ground on top of the pipe at the start at getting within 6"-8" at the end to use the popup. Like usual a bit of a balancing act but I feel good about a little over 1.25% slope 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs my calculations you were a bit over 1/4 inch per foot
way to much math here...does not need to be this precise...wow
And now I'd like to give the link for my website ..just joking
😎🖖✌👍👌😁
This explanation is so confusing
Teacher got class at tafe to watch this video just then but Nothing makes sense in this video as you are not using metric system.... and Ross didn't help me with the conversions
To round up 5'4, is 5!!!!!
That would be rounding down.