@@HowtoAutomotive how would we know if our alternator problem on our rav4... currently the battery light is on red and the battery is at 12.5 volts and when you turn it on it goes down to 12.1
Instructions were exceptionally helpful! Toyota dealership wanted just shy of $700. I spent $150 at the parts store and did the job in about 1.5 hours thanks to your video!
@@zachherrera5385 I'm not a professional mechanic by any stretch, but I have worked on my own cars much of my life. I was also on about day 5 of the flu when I did this work. I would say you could do it in 2 hours or less. Take a picture with your phone before doing any work to make sure you get everything back the same way.
Thank you for this video! I have never worked on my cars but was quoted $805 to replace the alternator in my 2011 Rav4. I bought the alternator at Auto Zone for less than $200 and replaced it myself using only this video. You saved me $600!! Thank you SO much!
I can't thank you enough for this video! You saved me a ton of money that I don't have at the moment! Using your detailed instructions, I was able to successfully complete the job on my 2009 2.5L RAV4 in 1.5 hours. The worst part of the job for me was trying to get the belt off, and then back on the alternator. I didn't have a long wrench for the belt tensioner so I had to improvise and use a short wrench with a metal tube as an extension.
6 years later and this video is still doing its job. Thanks for the quick, no nonsense description of what to do. I should be able to bang this job out in no time at all.
Thank you SO MUCH. I drove my car to college this morning and all was well until I went to leave. With this video, my dad and I were able to get this fully replaced in about an hour and a half. My car's engine bay looked exactly like the one shown in the video. The hardest part was putting the drive belt back on. The one tool I wish we had that I saw used in the video was the 18" combination ratcheting wrench with flex heads. Having that extra leverage would have made it a hell of a lot easier. My cars specs: 2009 Rav4 2.5L 4cyl It is one of the Asian imported vehicles so it has a vin starting with J. Apparently some things vary compared to non-imported 2009 Rav4s but I didnt have any issues despite that.
A warning to anyone buying a rebuilt one, I got one with messed up threads and when I brought it back the next one had messed up threads as well. On the second one since we knew ahead the manager at the parts store broke out a thread cleaning kit and cleaned them up and it went in perfectly fine. I was very glad I brought one of the bolts when I went back
Thanks for posting this. You saved me $200 for install. It ended up taking me 4 hours but I got it done. Had huge trouble with the bottom bolt alignment on the alternator, and I didn't have the proper tooling. I used a stubby wrench on the tensioner and it ended up snapping back against a bracket and it took me a while to get it off the tensioner after. Good work!
Great video my friend! We have a 2007 4 cil . 2.5L a mechanic once told me this is an Asian vehicle, imported, not like most made in USA. and the alternator has 1-14mm and 1-12mm holding it. The tensioner is hidden under the engine mount braket and it’s a 3/4” bolt. Belt is also different , longer and wider, hope this helps someone too, may God bless you all.
This man knows how to make a Video! Instant Subsribe from this guy. Clear concise no back and forth on instructions there are no questions left to be asked. Way to go Brian.
Thanks! I'm am so glad I watched this video. The first one I watched had you removing wheels, engine mounts and having to hold the engine up with a jack! Great video. It took me less than an hour to do the job after watching your video.
I just wanted to drop in and give you a huge THANK YOU. You just saved my bacon. I watched this vid probably 10 times to make sure I did each step right. And my wife's car is all better. Thanks again. You are awesome. You've got a lifetime subscriber.
Usually I don’t look at videos for alternator replacements. However my neighbors car is having issues and I checked with my multimeter and determined the alternator was bad. Well I just gave the engine a gander and was like ohhhhhhh fudge this looks like a pain in the b hole. Thank you for doing such a simple to follow video for this repair.
Excellent video that saved me a ton of cash! The only thing I did differently was putting the serpentine belt around the AC pump last. I struggled for a while trying to get it over the alternator last. FYI Oreillys has a tool loaner program if you wanted to deposit money for a belt tensioner release tool - FYI it works best with a socket not the box wrench attachment.
Thank you very much. I was able to replace the alternator, belt, battery, and lower radiator hose today on my wife's 2010 RAV4. My garage was only 102 degrees :)
thanks, helpful video, releasing the tension pulley required a 16 socket on my 2007 and the correct ratchet was key. Also, my life time warranty replacement alternator from NAPA ($188 with core) was slightly to narrow between the hinge points where the long bolt and bracket had to go through. A small file for 5 minutes did the trick only after i battled for 30 minutes to force it in and broke a part of the casing. Do the right thing the first time.
Very helpful video. Save me time of not open the wheel. Just replaced for the 2012 Rav4, only 60k miles but alternator output only 12.36Volt. Thank you so much.
Man, thank you so much bc the Haynes manual wanted me to take of the passenger wheel, strut, front bumper and a whole bunch of other stuff. Your method is so much simpler. I’m subscribing and thumbs up’ing you. Thanks man. I truly appreciate it.
The belt tension pulley makes replacing an alternator much easier than it used to be. I remember when I 1st started seeing them I hated it because I hate change, but they made a lot of things better, like you only need 1 or 2 belts
This was the help I needed! Only critique, is on that back bolt of the reservoir, It may have been helpful to have showed how you broke that loose... I couldn't get mine, it kept bending the bracket so I aborted and did the rest with the reservoir in place.
Replaced mine 3yrs ago....watched a different video....in the video I watched I had to go thru the wheel well to get to the mount bolts of alternator(I think it was just the bottom 1)....in any event I gotta do it again.....but if I dont have to do that then great.....good video...thanks
Here's what I did to install the new / rebuilt one - Lube mounting bracket tabs - Remove and lightly grease the new power feed nut - Lube all bolt threads - Check that bolts easily thread into new alternator's threads >> The lower did not, as the threads were all boogered up and >> painted over, so I had to retap with M25 x 1.25 - Silicone spray the rubber boot for the lower connector - Slide the alternator on to the mounting bracket tabs - Run the top, rear bolt through and finger-tighten it - Run the lower bolt through and finger-tighten it >> In practice, this is easier to do with - Deep 14 mm socket w/ a lobster claw rubber on for grip - Stand to the right of the alternator - Reach down with right hand to "finger tighten" lower bolt w/ 14 mm socket - Ratchet tighten all thread bolts - Return the lower alternator connector and its rubber boot - Return the power feed connector, tighten the 10 mm nut, and return the plastic cover - Return the alternator belt - Return the coolant overflow tank, tightening down the two 10 mm bolts - Return the cowling cover, replacing clips as needed - Clean negative battery terminal and post - Reconnect negative battery terminal and post - Test run the car >> Just like the last time I replace battery, the car started fine, but then stalled some 10 seconds later. Restarted and ran OK
I tried this job today. First of all there is very little room. Not for a typical rachet & socket. Just to verify you put your tool on the big wheel of the tensioner. The bolt holding the tensioner doesn't look conventional. I',m gonna try my offset box end wrenches tomorrow.
If you're watching the be aware that he 2AZ-FE engine variant has a 12mm bolt at the bottom of the alternator and a 19 mm tensioner which is located further back and it's harder to access. Also, even with the belt tension fully loosened there is not enough slack to get it off or back on the alternator pulley with the side walls. You need to slide the belt off and put it back on the water pump pulley as it has no side walls. This, and the different position of the tensioner make it more difficult, and you need to use a long screwdriver to do this. With the tensioner spanner pulled forward in place, you can't get your other hand down there.
you are the best!!! so many other videos showing them taking off the wheel and even some taking off the motor mount and the belt but you sir did it like a BOSS!!. Amazing job! 👏👏👏👏✅️. just found your channel, hopefully you have 4runner videos too 👏👏 you got a new subscriber✅️👋
Thank you! Very clear! I've done many alternators but man this weird belt tensioner is invisible from up above. I rigged an old torque wrench to release it but decided later to get the same long ratcheting end wrenches you had! $150 amazon but saving that much in mechanic labor! Thanks again, really helpful video.
Thank you for sharing your know-how. i just did my 2009 rav4. i had a difficult time reinstalling the belt. after a lot of frustration, i couldn't seem to stretch the belt enough/rotate the tensioner enough to slip the belt on the alternator. i looked underneath the vehicle and discovered the belt was not completely on the crank pulley. it was being held off by a guide! I slipped the belt under the guide and then it easily fit over the alternator pulley. Maybe someone else will see this note and it will help them....
BLESS YOUR SOUL! I was having the same exact problem and same exact frustrations, came to the videos comments to see if anyone suggested another way of going about it. Sure enough, I was having the exact same problem as you; thought I was screwed until I saw your comment. Thank you, and thank you for the great informational video where we don't have to remove the wheel!
Excellent video thank you... at least you show most of the method other videos just point and say take this off then take that off and cut to cut to them off without actually showing where hidden bolts are or method. you saved me a lot of time!! thank you.!!
Thanks for the explanation! I replaced the alternator in my 2012 RAV4 4cyl, with the only difference being there were only two 14mm bolts instead of 3.
Very good video. Shop quoted me $800 to replace and install new alternator and battery. That's AFTER the $200 diagnostic. Ludicrous! Probably saved me $500 in BS labor charges for something that would take the shop 30mins.
Thanks for the useful video! Probably saved me a few, even though he actual Alternator is about $200 at the parts store. Did you say the tensioner was a 14mm? - It was a 19" on mine! Does the cool tool come in 19"? I guess the Toyota official tool is a bit pricey, but there is a serpentine belt replacement kit at Harbor Freight. -Repair is Noble, don't let the actual tech get ahead of you.
Wo, now that's how one should illustrate installation, complete including sizes, tricks, and straight to the point. I have to do that exact job in the am, now I can't wait. Two Thumbs Up.
Very good vid.... when I do serpentine belts... I draw a picture of the belt routing prior to removal.... I then place the old belt with the routing diagram and put it in by the spare tire.... Also.. I often pull alternators and simply replace the brushes when they get up or around 100k.... Usually that delays having to purchase a new or reman alt till 200+
Thank you so much for explaining that part that you said belt tensioner ,that part was moving on my vehicle rave 4 2015 👌😁I was worried now I can take it to some one to check it
What did you do about the refrigerant (silver) tubing blocking the lower bolt? Did you bend it out of the way? Hesitant to continue as I don't want to leak refrigerant and crater my AC
Clear, consise, every step explained, and links to the stuff he used. I mean, what else do you want? Tonight, my 185k 2010 Rav4 2.5's original alternator started whining. It went from 40 degrees on a cold start to 300+ degrees (measured with a infrared thermometer) in less then 2 minutes idling. Smells burnt too. Yep, time to replace it. Thanks for the video!!! NOTE: The link to the trim clips is out of date. Those clips are way too small and will npt work. The clips that are required are MUCH larger. I purchased an assortment that had the right ones. The clips that are in the link do not work. Also, if your tensioner is the non-hydraulic captive spring type, you will know frustration. You will find that the 14mm wrench is not enough. It took me a few days of struggling to get belt back on.
In practice, here's what I did to remove the alternator - Disconnect negative battery terminal w/ 10 mm socket and put it securely to the side - Remove 3 leftmost retaining clips from cowling cover, enough to reach front bolt head for coolant overflow tank - Remove both bolts for coolant overflow tank w/ 10 mm socket - Swing tank out of the way, toward front of car - This will require some heavy object to keep the tank from swinging back - Put a 6" long 14 mm box wrench on the tensioner pulley's cast-in bolt head at 3:00 and rotate clockwise by pushing down hard on the free, right end of the box wrench with a long open end wrench [2, 1:20] - Gently slip the belt off and move to side - Remove the bolt for the bracket holding wire loom in place above the alternator and the bolt attaching the wire loom to the top of the alternator with a 10 mm socket and extension [2, 1:50] - Pry the plastic cover off the alternator power feed with a flat blade screwdriver wedged between the connector and feed wire; spray the nut with penetrating oil; and remove the nut with a 10 mm box wrench @ 12:00, holding the box on the bolt head and striking it with a hammer to break the nut free [2, 2:30] - Squeeze the right side wing tab and pull the lower electrical connector on the alternator out toward the radiator [2, 2:30] - You may have to slide the rubber boot back to press the tab - Remove the two 14 mm bolts holding the alternator - Start with top, rear, using a torque wrench - Use a pry bar to pop alternator out of perch by placing pry bar tip between the perch and the alternator housing, then wiggle the alternator while prying forward - Wiggle alternator up and down, pivoting around mounting holes to free from the perch - Pull the alternator out by the pulley
Have a question. Is there a trick to getting the alternator back on? I took mine off while replacing my water pump but for the life of me can’t get it aligned on the top bolt. I was able to get the top bolt aligned enough to get half way be can’t get it to align properly to thread to the other side . Do you have any suggestions? Any would be appreciated.
Mustafa Awadallah on the Top Intermount on the alternator has a bushing that slides back-and-forth You need to widen it by tapping it with a brass hammer on the inside pushing the bushing hours. Then the alternator will slide into the bracket much easier and give you wiggle room to line up the bolts.
I have a 2006 RAV4 4WD base with the 4 cylinder.When I look up the correct gates belt it tells me to use the K070750. You show the K07610 which I have listed for the v-6. Thoughts???
Hi there! What type of pulley is that? Because I had my alternator changed by a mechanic and since then it does a strange Belty noise when I accelerate to star driving, especially with the aircon on and when the fan to cool down the engine starts. I brought it to another mechanic a friend of mine and he changed the belt and he reckons that noise come from the pulley which is the one way one instead of the flexing one..(that’s what I understood). So he reckons when the other mechanic Changed the alternator he put the wrong one or wrong type of pulley for my model..mine is a 2010 automatic 4x2 RAV4..in Australia. Any advise? Thanks in advance
I just ordered a 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2"-3/8" adapter. Is this overkill or too big to work with under the hood? Should I go down to a 15" or 18" breaker instead? And still with a 3/8"? I have a bunch of drive sockets already, so would prefer not to buy the ratcheting flex wrenches
I was able to get all the bolts out with my ratchet except for the lower 14mm bolt. I even tried my pneumatic ratchet on it and it wouldn't budge. There's just isn't enough room for my ratchet to come back past the mid way position to get enough torque on it without removing a lot more components and hoses. I am going out to buy an 18" breaker bar to see if that might work. If not, I'm running out of ideas. Unfortunately, he just kind of skims past this part in the video, suggesting he removed it with just the ratchet.
What would be an issue if you replace everything (at a mechanic shop) new battery,new alternator, new belt and alternator is not charging over 13.8. what would the problem be then. Plz help before I get scammed some more.
My 2007 RAv4 is big different than the one in the video, the auto tension is not on the top as in the video. actually, it is the middle under the belt , it is hard to reach. Also the need the Toyota special belt tensioner socket
So what are all the bolt sizes required for the alternator (looks to be the Denso 210-0722 alternator or equivalent). 14mm and 10mm? I have a Rav4 2009 2.5L Base BTW
My RAV4 is a 2006 4 cylinder & this video says 2005-2012. There's always little differences from year to year but things like the wire harness usually stay the same. Less than 3 mins into the video & so far the coolant bottle & the wire harness are different. I'd be able to figure all of this out without the video but I like to see shortcuts & bolt sizes. This is only the 1st video I'm watching, I have like 4 or 5 more.
Thanks man this saved me $500 no joke.
thomilcat that's awesome I'm glad the video was able to help you out. Thank you for watching and sharing!
@@HowtoAutomotive Hi Where is the description mentioned regarding tools and alternator belt? Thank you! It has been extremely helpful.
For real! This saved me literally $389! Although he has more room to move around in there as my hands are big. 🤦♂️🤣
@@HowtoAutomotive how would we know if our alternator problem on our rav4... currently the battery light is on red and the battery is at 12.5 volts and when you turn it on it goes down to 12.1
This a sad world we live in makes u wonder how much is money really worth
Instructions were exceptionally helpful! Toyota dealership wanted just shy of $700. I spent $150 at the parts store and did the job in about 1.5 hours thanks to your video!
afouche that’s awesome that you saved! I like hearing that. Thank you for watching!
How much experience do you have with cars?? I’m about to tackle this job with minimal experience. Wanted to guess the time it’d take..
@@zachherrera5385 I'm not a professional mechanic by any stretch, but I have worked on my own cars much of my life. I was also on about day 5 of the flu when I did this work. I would say you could do it in 2 hours or less. Take a picture with your phone before doing any work to make sure you get everything back the same way.
@@afouche you’ll be happy to hear, I did the deed! ≈2 hours cause I had to go get some special ratchets and sockets and whatnot
@@zachherrera5385 Awesome! Glad you made it happen. Sorry I didn't get to reply before you started the work.
Thank you for this video! I have never worked on my cars but was quoted $805 to replace the alternator in my 2011 Rav4. I bought the alternator at Auto Zone for less than $200 and replaced it myself using only this video. You saved me $600!! Thank you SO much!
That’s awesome congratulations on the big savings. Thank you for watching and Sharing!
I can't thank you enough for this video! You saved me a ton of money that I don't have at the moment!
Using your detailed instructions, I was able to successfully complete the job on my 2009 2.5L RAV4 in 1.5 hours. The worst part of the job for me was trying to get the belt off, and then back on the alternator. I didn't have a long wrench for the belt tensioner so I had to improvise and use a short wrench with a metal tube as an extension.
Your video is helping people out 6 years later! Thanks for the help!
That’s super cool! Thank you for watching!
6 years later and this video is still doing its job. Thanks for the quick, no nonsense description of what to do. I should be able to bang this job out in no time at all.
Thank you SO MUCH. I drove my car to college this morning and all was well until I went to leave. With this video, my dad and I were able to get this fully replaced in about an hour and a half. My car's engine bay looked exactly like the one shown in the video. The hardest part was putting the drive belt back on.
The one tool I wish we had that I saw used in the video was the 18" combination ratcheting wrench with flex heads. Having that extra leverage would have made it a hell of a lot easier.
My cars specs: 2009 Rav4 2.5L 4cyl
It is one of the Asian imported vehicles so it has a vin starting with J. Apparently some things vary compared to non-imported 2009 Rav4s but I didnt have any issues despite that.
People like you who post how to videos are the ones that help make my life easier and I thank you for that!!!!! :-)
A warning to anyone buying a rebuilt one, I got one with messed up threads and when I brought it back the next one had messed up threads as well. On the second one since we knew ahead the manager at the parts store broke out a thread cleaning kit and cleaned them up and it went in perfectly fine. I was very glad I brought one of the bolts when I went back
Thanks for posting this. You saved me $200 for install. It ended up taking me 4 hours but I got it done. Had huge trouble with the bottom bolt alignment on the alternator, and I didn't have the proper tooling. I used a stubby wrench on the tensioner and it ended up snapping back against a bracket and it took me a while to get it off the tensioner after. Good work!
I can't physically get the alternator out :-(
Great video my friend!
We have a 2007 4 cil . 2.5L a mechanic once told me this is an Asian vehicle, imported, not like most made in USA. and the alternator has 1-14mm and 1-12mm holding it. The tensioner is hidden under the engine mount braket and it’s a 3/4” bolt. Belt is also different , longer and wider, hope this helps someone too, may God bless you all.
Thank you so much
I’ve done alternators on old cars but that’s a different story. Thanks for this. Best tutorial. I think I can tackle this now 😀
Don't you miss the days when all you had to remove was the part needing replaced ? Technology my ass !
This man knows how to make a Video! Instant Subsribe from this guy. Clear concise no back and forth on instructions there are no questions left to be asked. Way to go Brian.
Thanks! I'm am so glad I watched this video. The first one I watched had you removing wheels, engine mounts and having to hold the engine up with a jack! Great video. It took me less than an hour to do the job after watching your video.
This video helped me to save my mom $400-$500. Was able to do the replacement myself. Thanks!
I just wanted to drop in and give you a huge THANK YOU. You just saved my bacon. I watched this vid probably 10 times to make sure I did each step right. And my wife's car is all better. Thanks again. You are awesome. You've got a lifetime subscriber.
The 90 dislikes are from dealerships that wanted your $800+ and are now losing out.
Lol true
You’re not wrong
yep
Usually I don’t look at videos for alternator replacements. However my neighbors car is having issues and I checked with my multimeter and determined the alternator was bad. Well I just gave the engine a gander and was like ohhhhhhh fudge this looks like a pain in the b hole. Thank you for doing such a simple to follow video for this repair.
That’s cool your helping your neighbor. Thank you for watching!
Excellent video that saved me a ton of cash! The only thing I did differently was putting the serpentine belt around the AC pump last. I struggled for a while trying to get it over the alternator last. FYI Oreillys has a tool loaner program if you wanted to deposit money for a belt tensioner release tool - FYI it works best with a socket not the box wrench attachment.
Thank you very much. I was able to replace the alternator, belt, battery, and lower radiator hose today on my wife's 2010 RAV4. My garage was only 102 degrees :)
Scott Eichelberger 102 that’s rough but I’m glad the video help you get through it. Thank you for watching!
thanks, helpful video, releasing the tension pulley required a 16 socket on my 2007 and the correct ratchet was key. Also, my life time warranty replacement alternator from NAPA ($188 with core) was slightly to narrow between the hinge points where the long bolt and bracket had to go through. A small file for 5 minutes did the trick only after i battled for 30 minutes to force it in and broke a part of the casing. Do the right thing the first time.
10/10 video. You probably saved me 400 bucks in labor, when I was able to have it done in a little over an hour, myself. Thanks man!
Awesome always happy to hear the videos help save money. Thank you for watching!
Excellent video, helped me replace alternator on family's 2009 4 Cyl. Rav 4, and earned me a 12 pack for sure.
What bolt sizes did you use?
Thanks much. Knocked it out in an hour out in the driveway. Works great.
This video is awesome! So concise and quick to the point. Great narration and showing exactly where all the parts are. Nice job!
this man is a king dropping this knowledge on us
Thank you!
Thanks heaps for your expertise.
Saved me near $700.
Boosted my mechanical confidence and ability by 10!!!😁👏👌
Definitely recommend this channel 😃
Very helpful video. Save me time of not open the wheel. Just replaced for the 2012 Rav4, only 60k miles but alternator output only 12.36Volt. Thank you so much.
Man, thank you so much bc the Haynes manual wanted me to take of the passenger wheel, strut, front bumper and a whole bunch of other stuff. Your method is so much simpler. I’m subscribing and thumbs up’ing you. Thanks man. I truly appreciate it.
The belt tension pulley makes replacing an alternator much easier than it used to be. I remember when I 1st started seeing them I hated it because I hate change, but they made a lot of things better, like you only need 1 or 2 belts
Hell yeah, easiest Alternator pull ever, thank you dude
Thank you so much for the content! Saved me over $550 which is crazy.
This was the help I needed! Only critique, is on that back bolt of the reservoir, It may have been helpful to have showed how you broke that loose... I couldn't get mine, it kept bending the bracket so I aborted and did the rest with the reservoir in place.
Definitely appreciate you posting this and saving me a couple hundred in labor.
Replaced mine 3yrs ago....watched a different video....in the video I watched I had to go thru the wheel well to get to the mount bolts of alternator(I think it was just the bottom 1)....in any event I gotta do it again.....but if I dont have to do that then great.....good video...thanks
Here's what I did to install the new / rebuilt one
- Lube mounting bracket tabs
- Remove and lightly grease the new power feed nut
- Lube all bolt threads
- Check that bolts easily thread into new alternator's threads
>> The lower did not, as the threads were all boogered up and
>> painted over, so I had to retap with M25 x 1.25
- Silicone spray the rubber boot for the lower connector
- Slide the alternator on to the mounting bracket tabs
- Run the top, rear bolt through and finger-tighten it
- Run the lower bolt through and finger-tighten it
>> In practice, this is easier to do with
- Deep 14 mm socket w/ a lobster claw rubber on for grip
- Stand to the right of the alternator
- Reach down with right hand to "finger tighten" lower bolt w/ 14
mm socket
- Ratchet tighten all thread bolts
- Return the lower alternator connector and its rubber boot
- Return the power feed connector, tighten the 10 mm nut, and return
the plastic cover
- Return the alternator belt
- Return the coolant overflow tank, tightening down the two 10 mm
bolts
- Return the cowling cover, replacing clips as needed
- Clean negative battery terminal and post
- Reconnect negative battery terminal and post
- Test run the car
>> Just like the last time I replace battery, the car started
fine, but then stalled some 10 seconds later. Restarted and
ran OK
I tried this job today. First of all there is very little room. Not for a typical rachet & socket. Just to verify you put your tool on the big wheel of the tensioner. The bolt holding the tensioner doesn't look conventional. I',m gonna try my offset box end wrenches tomorrow.
If you're watching the be aware that he 2AZ-FE engine variant has a 12mm bolt at the bottom of the alternator and a 19 mm tensioner which is located further back and it's harder to access. Also, even with the belt tension fully loosened there is not enough slack to get it off or back on the alternator pulley with the side walls. You need to slide the belt off and put it back on the water pump pulley as it has no side walls. This, and the different position of the tensioner make it more difficult, and you need to use a long screwdriver to do this. With the tensioner spanner pulled forward in place, you can't get your other hand down there.
you are the best!!! so many other videos showing them taking off the wheel and even some taking off the motor mount and the belt but you sir did it like a BOSS!!. Amazing job! 👏👏👏👏✅️. just found your channel, hopefully you have 4runner videos too 👏👏 you got a new subscriber✅️👋
Thank you! Very clear! I've done many alternators but man this weird belt tensioner is invisible from up above. I rigged an old torque wrench to release it but decided later to get the same long ratcheting end wrenches you had! $150 amazon but saving that much in mechanic labor! Thanks again, really helpful video.
Thank you for sharing your know-how. i just did my 2009 rav4. i had a difficult time reinstalling the belt. after a lot of frustration, i couldn't seem to stretch the belt enough/rotate the tensioner enough to slip the belt on the alternator. i looked underneath the vehicle and discovered the belt was not completely on the crank pulley. it was being held off by a guide! I slipped the belt under the guide and then it easily fit over the alternator pulley. Maybe someone else will see this note and it will help them....
BLESS YOUR SOUL! I was having the same exact problem and same exact frustrations, came to the videos comments to see if anyone suggested another way of going about it. Sure enough, I was having the exact same problem as you; thought I was screwed until I saw your comment. Thank you, and thank you for the great informational video where we don't have to remove the wheel!
Excellent video thank you... at least you show most of the method other videos just point and say take this off then take that off and cut to cut to them off without actually showing where hidden bolts are or method. you saved me a lot of time!! thank you.!!
Thanks for the explanation! I replaced the alternator in my 2012 RAV4 4cyl, with the only difference being there were only two 14mm bolts instead of 3.
Philip Weiser glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Great instructions, thank you very much. 45 min. Job done saved 200 bucs.
Thanks for this !! The other demo I found involved removing motor mounts and I don't wanna mess with that lol
Easy job
I wasnt sure which one was the tensioner bolt but your video captured it perfectly! 👍
We were able to fix our Rav thanks to you.🎉🎉 Thank you🎉🎉😁👍
thanks for the great video, was able to replace a bad whining alternator on my 2011 rav4. saved alot of money
Very good video. Shop quoted me $800 to replace and install new alternator and battery. That's AFTER the $200 diagnostic. Ludicrous! Probably saved me $500 in BS labor charges for something that would take the shop 30mins.
J W glad the video helped you save some money 👍🏻 got to love that. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the useful video! Probably saved me a few, even though he actual Alternator is about $200 at the parts store. Did you say the tensioner was a 14mm? - It was a 19" on mine! Does the cool tool come in 19"?
I guess the Toyota official tool is a bit pricey, but there is a serpentine belt replacement kit at Harbor Freight.
-Repair is Noble, don't let the actual tech get ahead of you.
It was a 19mm on my 2008 RAV4 and in a much harder spot to reach. I finagled a 19mm socket and ratchet on it to get the belt off.
What year and motor is yours? Mine was a 2006 with a 4 cyc motor and it used a 19mm bolt as well.
Awesome video! Very informative and straight forward. Going to save me a lot of time as you explained everything well.
Glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Wo, now that's how one should illustrate installation, complete including sizes, tricks, and straight to the point. I have to do that exact job in the am, now I can't wait. Two Thumbs Up.
That\s the best instructions ive ever seen.....now i start to do it on my car.....i will come with update :) ....thx for video ...
Thank u mate saved almost $500 now i can do it by myself
Very good vid.... when I do serpentine belts... I draw a picture of the belt routing prior to removal.... I then place the old belt with the routing diagram and put it in by the spare tire.... Also.. I often pull alternators and simply replace the brushes when they get up or around 100k.... Usually that delays having to purchase a new or reman alt till 200+
Hey Brian I do have a Rav 4 and I did the job myself thanks to you
Glad the video was helpful 👍 thank you for watching!
Thank you for this video! This saved money and built so much confidence!
I like how you took the time to explain so well thanks so much
Nice! I am going to change it on my own. I have collected all the videos on RAV4 2012 alternator replacement. LOL
Great video thank you for being very descriptive and having all the tools and stuff linked in the descriptions!!
Thank you so much for explaining that part that you said belt tensioner ,that part was moving on my vehicle rave 4 2015 👌😁I was worried now I can take it to some one to check it
What did you do about the refrigerant (silver) tubing blocking the lower bolt? Did you bend it out of the way? Hesitant to continue as I don't want to leak refrigerant and crater my AC
Thank you, saves a lot of time and money
Crazy how there are some slight variations with this car. Im working on an 07 and my tensioner bolt is a 19mm instead of 14. Good how to video tho
Clear, consise, every step explained, and links to the stuff he used. I mean, what else do you want? Tonight, my 185k 2010 Rav4 2.5's original alternator started whining. It went from 40 degrees on a cold start to 300+ degrees (measured with a infrared thermometer) in less then 2 minutes idling. Smells burnt too. Yep, time to replace it. Thanks for the video!!! NOTE: The link to the trim clips is out of date. Those clips are way too small and will npt work. The clips that are required are MUCH larger. I purchased an assortment that had the right ones. The clips that are in the link do not work. Also, if your tensioner is the non-hydraulic captive spring type, you will know frustration. You will find that the 14mm wrench is not enough. It took me a few days of struggling to get belt back on.
Glad to help. Thank you for watching!
Dealer wanted close to a $1,000. I bought a brand new alternative and installed it myself. Saved 800
Nice that some big savings.
In practice, here's what I did to remove the alternator
- Disconnect negative battery terminal w/ 10 mm socket and put it
securely to the side
- Remove 3 leftmost retaining clips from cowling cover, enough to
reach front bolt head for coolant overflow tank
- Remove both bolts for coolant overflow tank w/ 10 mm socket
- Swing tank out of the way, toward front of car
- This will require some heavy object to keep the tank from swinging
back
- Put a 6" long 14 mm box wrench on the tensioner pulley's cast-in
bolt head at 3:00 and rotate clockwise by pushing down hard on the
free, right end of the box wrench with a long open end wrench [2,
1:20]
- Gently slip the belt off and move to side
- Remove the bolt for the bracket holding wire loom in place above the
alternator and the bolt attaching the wire loom to the top of the
alternator with a 10 mm socket and extension [2, 1:50]
- Pry the plastic cover off the alternator power feed with a flat
blade screwdriver wedged between the connector and feed wire; spray
the nut with penetrating oil; and remove the nut with a 10 mm box
wrench @ 12:00, holding the box on the bolt head and striking it
with a hammer to break the nut free [2, 2:30]
- Squeeze the right side wing tab and pull the lower electrical
connector on the alternator out toward the radiator [2, 2:30]
- You may have to slide the rubber boot back to press the tab
- Remove the two 14 mm bolts holding the alternator
- Start with top, rear, using a torque wrench
- Use a pry bar to pop alternator out of perch by placing pry bar tip
between the perch and the alternator housing, then wiggle the
alternator while prying forward
- Wiggle alternator up and down, pivoting around mounting holes to
free from the perch
- Pull the alternator out by the pulley
Dude, you deserve heaven...
Thank you for sharing this video....👍👍👍👍 best regards from Australia....
Gazza D’cruz thank you for watching!
Excellent job thanks for the description and everything that you did
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Have a question. Is there a trick to getting the alternator back on? I took mine off while replacing my water pump but for the life of me can’t get it aligned on the top bolt. I was able to get the top bolt aligned enough to get half way be can’t get it to align properly to thread to the other side . Do you have any suggestions? Any would be appreciated.
Mustafa Awadallah on the Top Intermount on the alternator has a bushing that slides back-and-forth You need to widen it by tapping it with a brass hammer on the inside pushing the bushing hours. Then the alternator will slide into the bracket much easier and give you wiggle room to line up the bolts.
Thanks helped me out heaps. Easy to follow your step by step and commentary
Thanks for this, my friend. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Brian! Ready to tackle this myself now!
To re-tighten the belt do I tighten away from me and to loosen the bell on the tensioner I twist towards me right?
I have a 2006 RAV4 4WD base with the 4 cylinder.When I look up the correct gates belt it tells me to use the K070750. You show the K07610 which I have listed for the v-6. Thoughts???
Thanks for this info. Off to buy my alternator...
Joseph Haney good luck with the repair hopefully everything goes smooth. Thank you for watching!
Anybody know the part number or the threads for the bolt he mentions at 1:50? Drop the bolt when replacing the alternator and will need a replacement
Save me $500 plus, thanks for the tutorial, really helpful.
great video, thank you for sharing! you have saved me a lot of money!!
Did you move your battery, or did it come where it is located? Mine is located near the front of passenger side mirror by the strut bolts.
Curry Flora that’s the stock location for it.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO SO FAR ITS THE BEST I HAVE WATCHED
THANKS
GOD Bless you. This really helped.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Hi ... great video ... thanks ... thought there was a link for belt routing?
Many thanks for your video! You saved me a TON of $$$!
Great video! Clear and to the point. Thank you.
Hi there! What type of pulley is that? Because I had my alternator changed by a mechanic and since then it does a strange Belty noise when I accelerate to star driving, especially with the aircon on and when the fan to cool down the engine starts. I brought it to another mechanic a friend of mine and he changed the belt and he reckons that noise come from the pulley which is the one way one instead of the flexing one..(that’s what I understood). So he reckons when the other mechanic Changed the alternator he put the wrong one or wrong type of pulley for my model..mine is a 2010 automatic 4x2 RAV4..in Australia. Any advise? Thanks in advance
Thank you very clear fast instructions
I just ordered a 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2"-3/8" adapter. Is this overkill or too big to work with under the hood? Should I go down to a 15" or 18" breaker instead? And still with a 3/8"? I have a bunch of drive sockets already, so would prefer not to buy the ratcheting flex wrenches
I was able to get all the bolts out with my ratchet except for the lower 14mm bolt. I even tried my pneumatic ratchet on it and it wouldn't budge. There's just isn't enough room for my ratchet to come back past the mid way position to get enough torque on it without removing a lot more components and hoses. I am going out to buy an 18" breaker bar to see if that might work. If not, I'm running out of ideas. Unfortunately, he just kind of skims past this part in the video, suggesting he removed it with just the ratchet.
What would be an issue if you replace everything (at a mechanic shop) new battery,new alternator, new belt and alternator is not charging over 13.8. what would the problem be then. Plz help before I get scammed some more.
My 2007 RAv4 is big different than the one in the video, the auto tension is not on the top as in the video. actually, it is the middle under the belt , it is hard to reach. Also the need the Toyota special belt tensioner socket
So what are all the bolt sizes required for the alternator (looks to be the Denso 210-0722 alternator or equivalent). 14mm and 10mm? I have a Rav4 2009 2.5L Base BTW
My RAV4 is a 2006 4 cylinder & this video says 2005-2012. There's always little differences from year to year but things like the wire harness usually stay the same. Less than 3 mins into the video & so far the coolant bottle & the wire harness are different. I'd be able to figure all of this out without the video but I like to see shortcuts & bolt sizes. This is only the 1st video I'm watching, I have like 4 or 5 more.
Interesting. My RAV4 2006 4 Cylinder is identical to this video. I wonder if Toyota made a change mid year of for the 2006 4 cyl versions?
Is it the same for the v6
My 2008 Rav had a 12mm lower bolt 14 mm upper bolt.
My 2007 Rav4 I4 has the same
Great video. Wrong clip called out. should be for 10mm dia. hole. These clips are 7mm dia. and 10mm long
.
Thank you so much! Save time and money! 🙏🏼
very helpfull, you saved my mom's suv
This video is identical to my 2009 rav4. It took me a little longer than 6:18 however.
What bolt sizes did you need?
Perfect advice, thank you!!!!