Glad to see a new video! Spring is coming sloooowly here but I already dusted down my SWM SM 500 R. Love the details about everything you did to it btw. Do you think you'll do a detailed list of all the parts (part no.-s etc) that went into building her from the ground up? Keep safe!
Too many to list bro unless you can send an email :) For the frame, all the bearings and seals, the same with the triples, wheels and there's a lot of new bling and functional parts too like the speedo, cables, plastics, etc. The motor internals? over a sheet of new pieces to make her new again but for me, all worth it.
@@motardyoda Totally understandable, and you've listed most of them in the video (or description). I don't want you to do extra work just for 1 email, so go out for ride instead! :)
This is a new motor mate meaning I just rebuilt it so no oil is being burned, the rings are tight and I paid to have them seated before use so as long as I keep the oil fresh, it will rarely burn any in between intervals. I've owned many of these and learned if you change oil every 500-700 miles, they stay fresh and do no burn in between changes. Now if you watch my Breather Valve rerouting video, you'll learn that the amount of oil you see up top can be an indication of normal wear when oil is lost up top. Also if you are not using the right grade and not letting it warm up properly.
So the rule here for me is simple: any bike that weighs under 300 lbs will require regular oil changes if its a 4 stroke, like every 500-800 miles. Filters every other oil change. Valve check every 1-2 miles not to mention other issues if you're abusing it. So compared to any other bike in this range like a WR450, KTM500, YZ450 or Honda 450, no different. Now do I consider this to be a lot? Nope. I can do an oil change in less than 10 minutes. But if you're not down for this work? Don't get it. For me? Its all worth it. I've had heavier bikes, 300 lb+ models like the DRZ400, SM701, KLX300, they all require less frequent oil changes and valve checks BUT they weigh a lot more and aren't nearly as much fun for me being I'm not 160lbs in gear. That means those bigger bikes are a lot for me to throw around and I'd much rather be on a lighter, more powerful bike (HP to Weight ratio wise) even if it means wrenching more. But if you're a big boi? 220 lbs plus? Get something bigger. The bike will love ya for it and you'll be in a win/win relationship.
I have a question. This is a 2009 SMR510 FI model. I know the fuel tank has a capacity of 7 liters, but my bike always shuts off when I use 5 liters. I know that the FI model does not have a fuel cock, but do you know why? As always, the engine turns off when only 5 liters are used. I can't use the remaining 2 liters.
Couple of things on this. First, there is no fuel cock on a fuel injected bike. The line coming from your tank is from a pump that's "inside" the tank. That line runs to your throttle body/injector and sprays out fuel as you work your throttle (right hand). As for the bike "running out of gas" when only 5 liters have been used? This is most likely then result of a known issue on these bikes. It has to do with the fuel pump mounting system. Basically the pump sits in a channel and its held there by "stiff" plastic arms with little prongs. Well the issue is those arms are not strong enough to keep the prongs in place so the pump often slides "up". The result is that it cannot pump out the fuel below it. In fact there are many posts on this, mostly called the "cable tie" or "zip tie" edit where the pump is mounted in the arms properly and then "secured" using a few cable ties. To do the edit you'll need to remove the tank and then the pump and then secure the prong arms that hold the pump as detailed in this post: www.cafehusky.com/threads/fi-fuel-pump-mod.3036/
u can get them here in the states from Halls in Indiana but other places too like Toxicmotoracing.com and on Ebay. In Europe, a lot of guys selling them direct through our FB groups
@@motardyoda Sick looking bike man! Do you have a link for EBay? I’m having a hard time finding them and halls cycles said they don’t carry them anymore. Thanks
@@vadimshmalyukh3341 not seeing them on Ebay but there are several sellers in Italy with them. You might try Jeff at Toxicmotoracing.com too. I believe he has some, if not, hit me up on Instagram and I'll send you some sellers and their groups
![Chris Langan - The Interview THEY Didn't Want You To See - CTMU [Full Version; Timestamps]](/img/1.gif)
That looks just mental, those red details, black parts..Just awesome
yeah she came out sooooooo good. I've very happy. She's better than new
whole gang in here :D
Glad to see a new video! Spring is coming sloooowly here but I already dusted down my SWM SM 500 R.
Love the details about everything you did to it btw. Do you think you'll do a detailed list of all the parts (part no.-s etc) that went into building her from the ground up?
Keep safe!
Too many to list bro unless you can send an email :) For the frame, all the bearings and seals, the same with the triples, wheels and there's a lot of new bling and functional parts too like the speedo, cables, plastics, etc. The motor internals? over a sheet of new pieces to make her new again but for me, all worth it.
@@motardyoda Totally understandable, and you've listed most of them in the video (or description). I don't want you to do extra work just for 1 email, so go out for ride instead! :)
How often do you change the SMR510 engine oil? (Km or Mile) and Do you also add oil on the way?
This is a new motor mate meaning I just rebuilt it so no oil is being burned, the rings are tight and I paid to have them seated before use so as long as I keep the oil fresh, it will rarely burn any in between intervals. I've owned many of these and learned if you change oil every 500-700 miles, they stay fresh and do no burn in between changes. Now if you watch my Breather Valve rerouting video, you'll learn that the amount of oil you see up top can be an indication of normal wear when oil is lost up top. Also if you are not using the right grade and not letting it warm up properly.
Currently looking at a Husqvarna smr 510 2006 model. Is this a bike that needs alot of maintenance ?
So the rule here for me is simple: any bike that weighs under 300 lbs will require regular oil changes if its a 4 stroke, like every 500-800 miles. Filters every other oil change. Valve check every 1-2 miles not to mention other issues if you're abusing it. So compared to any other bike in this range like a WR450, KTM500, YZ450 or Honda 450, no different. Now do I consider this to be a lot? Nope. I can do an oil change in less than 10 minutes. But if you're not down for this work? Don't get it. For me? Its all worth it. I've had heavier bikes, 300 lb+ models like the DRZ400, SM701, KLX300, they all require less frequent oil changes and valve checks BUT they weigh a lot more and aren't nearly as much fun for me being I'm not 160lbs in gear. That means those bigger bikes are a lot for me to throw around and I'd much rather be on a lighter, more powerful bike (HP to Weight ratio wise) even if it means wrenching more. But if you're a big boi? 220 lbs plus? Get something bigger. The bike will love ya for it and you'll be in a win/win relationship.
I have a question. This is a 2009 SMR510 FI model. I know the fuel tank has a capacity of 7 liters, but my bike always shuts off when I use 5 liters. I know that the FI model does not have a fuel cock, but do you know why? As always, the engine turns off when only 5 liters are used. I can't use the remaining 2 liters.
Couple of things on this. First, there is no fuel cock on a fuel injected bike. The line coming from your tank is from a pump that's "inside" the tank. That line runs to your throttle body/injector and sprays out fuel as you work your throttle (right hand). As for the bike "running out of gas" when only 5 liters have been used? This is most likely then result of a known issue on these bikes. It has to do with the fuel pump mounting system. Basically the pump sits in a channel and its held there by "stiff" plastic arms with little prongs. Well the issue is those arms are not strong enough to keep the prongs in place so the pump often slides "up". The result is that it cannot pump out the fuel below it. In fact there are many posts on this, mostly called the "cable tie" or "zip tie" edit where the pump is mounted in the arms properly and then "secured" using a few cable ties. To do the edit you'll need to remove the tank and then the pump and then secure the prong arms that hold the pump as detailed in this post: www.cafehusky.com/threads/fi-fuel-pump-mod.3036/
Hey, where do you find your 530 kits?
My smr is due for a rebuild soon and thinking of putting in a bigger cylinder.
u can get them here in the states from Halls in Indiana but other places too like Toxicmotoracing.com and on Ebay. In Europe, a lot of guys selling them direct through our FB groups
@@motardyoda Sick looking bike man! Do you have a link for EBay? I’m having a hard time finding them and halls cycles said they don’t carry them anymore. Thanks
@@vadimshmalyukh3341 not seeing them on Ebay but there are several sellers in Italy with them. You might try Jeff at Toxicmotoracing.com too. I believe he has some, if not, hit me up on Instagram and I'll send you some sellers and their groups