wow, wow, wow, if only every video was as clear, informative, well filmed, information rich as this one, and RUclips would have 1/100 of the number of videos it currently has. Best instruction video ever!
Very first solution - key reset - in my case worked right away. I knew that key would be OK as it is less than 2 years old and this remote control problem started after my car battery went flat. Excellent. Thank you.
Thanks, this vid saved me a fair bundle. Had some expensive quotes for repair so decided to have a go myself. Pretty sure it was a poor connection on the reciever as after checking power as per your instructions it all worked again after re-initialising keys. Thanks again !!
Thank you so much for such a well explained video. One of my customers asked me for help so i was like ok ill see what i can find and i came accross your video.
From far away in Japan, I have been annoyed about this problem of E39, and I didn't fix it. yet. But this must be a royal way to fix it. There are rare videos on youtube which has a kind of amazing explanation step by step.
Great Video helped me out tremendously just by learning the key Reset Procedure which was my problem!! The Key is only one year old, so i was concerned that the battery was dead but no, just needed a reset.
Wow, thank you for the informative video! I learned a lot! Unfortunately, i just bought a 2000 528i whose previous owner said the remote didn't work; however, it does start and lock/arm the alarm with the hidden key, so i'm just using that.
I was going to attempt a repair today until I tried buying the FOB battery. Nobody carries them. You have to buy them online. ie Ebay, Amazon, etc. I am on hold while I wait. My current FOB that just went dead is an '02 e39 540i Touring. My FOB did not respond to the re-pairing(?), the central lock in the center console does lock/un-lock everything correctly, but I have lost the ability to open the rear glass or rear hatch manually. Are there different fuses or modules to check in a Touring? Is this normal to lose functionality on the liftgate when the FOB goes dead? I have to crawl through the car to get to the emergency mechanical liftgate release to open the back, not fun.
Would the amplifier cause the key fob to not work as well as when you put the key in the door the locks do not work, nor does the center lock button? I have replaced my key fob when i lost it from the dealership not even a year ago so i don't think my fob is bad
Amazing video, my problem is probably with one of the modules have to search which one, from my understanding there are 5. My buttons dont work, fuses are okay and it won't resync (dealership checked the remote signal from key and should be okay)
@@nwabuezeozuzu6370 no i never did, we tried swapping the antenna amplifie, didn't help and ISTA+ or INPA said that it cannot establish connection with the "body module" if i remember correct
@@smooty8587 Damn! I wish you fixed it cos mine does not work. CENTRAL LOCK is OK, security arms when I use the key to lock the car but the remote function is absent.
Hello mate, nice video you made. i have E39 2000 year my problem is every 5-6 day later my key losing sync so everytime i need program it do you know what problem is ?
If you have another remote key fob, try using that one for a while. If the problem persists, I would suspect the general module. If the other key does not have the sync issues, then obviously the first key is the culprit. If you have only one remote key, you could try replacing the battery. But as I mention in the video, it is possible to damage the key and even if you're successful, there is no guarantee that this will fix your syncing issues.
@@ProperRepair Thank you very much for reply.I really dont have another key but its better to replace GM first because its cheaper than new key.i am living in Azerbaijan general module is only 10-15$ so its better to change gm first
I generally would not support throwing parts, but if it is that cheap I guess it's worth a try. Make sure you get a module from a same model year (newer probably works too). If it doesn't fix your issue put the original GM back, so that the coding matches the car (or code the settings appropriately).
Because sometime somebody somewhere on internet said so, and I followed the advice :) But I can say that neither a 5-hour trip nor 8-hour charging on the toothbrush charger did not work for me. When leaving it on the charger for 2 days however, that worked. Not for long, but at least the problem was diagnosed.
Can you please tell me about the electric toothbrush charger conversion to test charge your key fob. I have a spare white colored electric toothbrush charger similar to the one you displayed in the video, it has that pillar insert on the top of the charger… do you cut that off to make the surface even and then place the key fob on it? This will really be a big help to me. Respectfully J~
Mine also had this pillar, but it seems it was just to hold the toothbrush in place. So yes, you have to cut it off, placing the key just near the charger won't work in my opinion. See where the induction coil is in the key and match the key's position on the charger in the same way I did at 12:02 (just the circuit board is shown, but you get the idea). It is my experience, that this position works best, but that is assuming you have the actual same type of a charger. In any case, charge it for at least 24 hours (better 48), perhaps try placing the key in a different position and also try syncing it if it doesn't immediately work.
@@ProperRepair I have another question and I can tell you are very knowledgeable of this key fob. My key has been falling where I would need to be close to the car to arm the alarm or disarm the alarm but the remote would stop working completely between pressing the unlock button and pressing the locking or trunk buttons you have to wait like ten seconds or so between functions. The red light in the review rapidly blinks after locking the car before blinking normally and not so the doors will lock at the same time, the little lock indicators on the door that go up and down will stay up and the driver, passenger and rear passenger door indicators will all go down and same with using the key not all doors will lock or unlock together your Will have to try a couple times before you get everything working however the inside button that locks out all the doors does work but you have to press it once and then like three doors will lock and then if you press it again all the doors will unlock and then you press it again then all four doors or a lock so the system is acting real crazy and when I go to reinitialize the key it won’t let me do it unless I turn the key in the ignition excel five times and then take the key out and then press the unlock and press the lock button three different times it might lock and unlock but I’m getting a lock and then the doors will not unlock so the system seems like it has a glitch in it what does it indicate is it because the key fob is too low on the battery
@@ProperRepair Please forgive meFor making such a long message I’m in a real bind here and I don’t want to have to spend the $300 to get a master key replacement from BMW so I’m wondering is this even a key issue or is this like a central locking the unit itself as it is an issue with that because sometimes the key will just completely stop working and I’ll have to get in the car by using the key in the door and that will disarm and arm the alarm but you know it’s I don’t know if the key fob is it bad or is it the central locking do you think please let me know thank you and again I apologize about the long messages
I will have to speculate in this case, but from what I've gathered, there is nothing wrong with your key fob. All doors should un/lock at the same time, if one door is consistently lazy this indicates to a bad motor issue. I have a video on replacing that. My suggestion is that you fix this issue first and then go from there.
@@ProperRepair I just attempted to initialize the key again and it worked. It locks the doors except for the drivers for the lock indicator thing is slightly up from its normal position but the red light still blinks rapidly like ten to twenty times before slowing to its normal blinking interval when everything is well and good. I’m worried about the rapid Blinking because that indicates perhaps somebody may be tried to get in the car before or perhaps the alarm is not going to sound if somebody tries to get in perhaps somethings not connecting properly I don’t know what it could be that’s not I’m in the car completely I don’t know do you know what it means but it just rapidly flashes but you get a normal lock Chirp and unlock Chirp you know everything else is OK and by the way thank you for telling me about the video do you is it in your video lineup for replacing the locking mechanism
Is there any way i can find is there inside id 44 or id 46 chip, without opening the key? Just by reading key backside? I hava e39 525d, year 2001 and i want to find spare key on aliexpress. But there are 2 model of key. I think your model is 46, without small black chip-code inside
To the best of my knowledge, BMW does not use the same style chip as those you can buy online and for E39 the ID44 type should be used. But I've never coded a key myself (yet).
@@ProperRepair This mean i can buy 44 version, but it cant work if i dont code it. I will try to pair it with original key. On aliexpress i read comments this key working. 10$ it is cheap,worth to try
You can still transplant the 8 pin ELMOS chip from one remote to the other. I've successfully done it, but you definitely need a hot air gun for that. You need to buy a donor key that is original BMW and has a working remote. If a remote is working than you can program it to the car, it will operate the doors, but you won't be able to start the engine. Once you know you have a good remote you can proceed further. You open both key shells, from your old key you need to desolder the EWS chip (ELMOS written on it), you than transplant your old chip to the working remote and than you put the assembled remote back into your old key shell. If everything done right you will have a working remote, an EWS chip that is known to the car and a key that matches the locks, all in one package.
It was similar to one shown here, but I do not know exact brand/model: ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1kdXSXznuK1RkSmFPq6AuzFXaB/Travel-Charger-For-Philips-Sonicare-Heathy-White-Flexcare-Toothbrush-HX6100-HX8111-HX8141-HX8140-HX8211-HX8281-European.jpg
Thats all well and good but what use is saying now get inside the car and pop the interior light off...etc...etc? If i had access to inside the car, i'd send it to a mechanic.. Im watching this precisely because i dont have access to inside the car.. The car wont unlock..
what if i dont have a keyfob? Suddenly only my drivers door locks, usually i turn key for 3 seconds to lock all doors, now only drivers stays locked, the others jump back up!
wow, wow, wow, if only every video was as clear, informative, well filmed, information rich as this one, and RUclips would have 1/100 of the number of videos it currently has. Best instruction video ever!
Excellent Video detailing general architecture and adressing all possible causes of failure (including antenna)
Very first solution - key reset - in my case worked right away. I knew that key would be OK as it is less than 2 years old and this remote control problem started after my car battery went flat. Excellent. Thank you.
What an amazing work, “just” to fix the key. U went over the top! Wish i had a guy like u in my corner 😊 big props too u.
Thank you! Over 40 hours of work (research, working, filming, editing) went into the video, I’m happy that it was worth it.
Thanks, this vid saved me a fair bundle. Had some expensive quotes for repair so decided to have a go myself. Pretty sure it was a poor connection on the reciever as after checking power as per your instructions it all worked again after re-initialising keys.
Thanks again !!
Thank you so much for such a well explained video. One of my customers asked me for help so i was like ok ill see what i can find and i came accross your video.
Best explication so far, congratulations
Excellent stuff. Resyncing the key worked for me.
01:04
From far away in Japan, I have been annoyed about this problem of E39, and I didn't fix it. yet.
But this must be a royal way to fix it. There are rare videos on youtube which has a kind of amazing explanation step by step.
Great Video helped me out tremendously just by learning the key Reset Procedure which was my problem!! The Key is only one year old, so i was concerned that the battery was dead but no, just needed a reset.
You know your shit man! The key restart was my problem
Such a great video
Perfect. Great information. Thank you.
Nice video!!
Wow, thank you for the informative video! I learned a lot! Unfortunately, i just bought a 2000 528i whose previous owner said the remote didn't work; however, it does start and lock/arm the alarm with the hidden key, so i'm just using that.
This video is legend
Very complete guide, thank you.
I had the same issue the re syncing work for me thanks 👍🏿
I was going to attempt a repair today until I tried buying the FOB battery. Nobody carries them. You have to buy them online. ie Ebay, Amazon, etc. I am on hold while I wait. My current FOB that just went dead is an '02 e39 540i Touring. My FOB did not respond to the re-pairing(?), the central lock in the center console does lock/un-lock everything correctly, but I have lost the ability to open the rear glass or rear hatch manually. Are there different fuses or modules to check in a Touring? Is this normal to lose functionality on the liftgate when the FOB goes dead? I have to crawl through the car to get to the emergency mechanical liftgate release to open the back, not fun.
Would the amplifier cause the key fob to not work as well as when you put the key in the door the locks do not work, nor does the center lock button? I have replaced my key fob when i lost it from the dealership not even a year ago so i don't think my fob is bad
That's a Great video!! thanks for it! i was able to identify that my case the issue was in the fuse 53!
May key give signal, My central system from car button works. But i can't reset key to car and can't lock/unlock with key. Antenna?
Thanks so much, this is helpful.
Hey, what kind of charger you use to charge key? I don't know where I can buy it, actually?
You are a legend mate 🖒
Amazing video, my problem is probably with one of the modules have to search which one, from my understanding there are 5. My buttons dont work, fuses are okay and it won't resync (dealership checked the remote signal from key and should be okay)
Did you ever found out what the problem was?
Yeah, smooty. Did you finally fix it?
@@catalinmarginean1577 no i never did, i sold the car still with the problem about a month ago
@@nwabuezeozuzu6370 no i never did, we tried swapping the antenna amplifie, didn't help and ISTA+ or INPA said that it cannot establish connection with the "body module" if i remember correct
@@smooty8587 Damn! I wish you fixed it cos mine does not work. CENTRAL LOCK is OK, security arms when I use the key to lock the car but the remote function is absent.
Thanks a lot. i just need this information for my 330CI key
Nice video, but I'm curious why you cut open the superglue rather than just squeeze some onto the cardboard?
Can't be sure anymore, but likely the nozzle was stuck with dried glue from previous use.
Brilliant. Thank you.
Just did the replacement. The key with the battery swap lock button doesn’t work anymore. Can unlock and open trunk but can’t lock the car.
Hello mate, nice video
you made. i have E39 2000 year my problem is every 5-6 day later my key losing sync so everytime i need program it do you know what problem is ?
If you have another remote key fob, try using that one for a while. If the problem persists, I would suspect the general module. If the other key does not have the sync issues, then obviously the first key is the culprit.
If you have only one remote key, you could try replacing the battery. But as I mention in the video, it is possible to damage the key and even if you're successful, there is no guarantee that this will fix your syncing issues.
@@ProperRepair Thank you very much for reply.I really dont have another key but its better to replace GM first because its cheaper than new key.i am living in Azerbaijan general module is only 10-15$ so its better to change gm first
I generally would not support throwing parts, but if it is that cheap I guess it's worth a try. Make sure you get a module from a same model year (newer probably works too).
If it doesn't fix your issue put the original GM back, so that the coding matches the car (or code the settings appropriately).
請問鑰匙充電，是否可以用手機的無線充電器
I had to put it on notch number two instead of one and then I did it not the first notch not for my 2004
I have a question to the charging process why 2-3 days?
Because sometime somebody somewhere on internet said so, and I followed the advice :)
But I can say that neither a 5-hour trip nor 8-hour charging on the toothbrush charger did not work for me. When leaving it on the charger for 2 days however, that worked. Not for long, but at least the problem was diagnosed.
Can you please tell me about the electric toothbrush charger conversion to test charge your key fob. I have a spare white colored electric toothbrush charger similar to the one you displayed in the video, it has that pillar insert on the top of the charger… do you cut that off to make the surface even and then place the key fob on it? This will really be a big help to me. Respectfully J~
Mine also had this pillar, but it seems it was just to hold the toothbrush in place. So yes, you have to cut it off, placing the key just near the charger won't work in my opinion.
See where the induction coil is in the key and match the key's position on the charger in the same way I did at 12:02 (just the circuit board is shown, but you get the idea). It is my experience, that this position works best, but that is assuming you have the actual same type of a charger.
In any case, charge it for at least 24 hours (better 48), perhaps try placing the key in a different position and also try syncing it if it doesn't immediately work.
@@ProperRepair I have another question and I can tell you are very knowledgeable of this key fob. My key has been falling where I would need to be close to the car to arm the alarm or disarm the alarm but the remote would stop working completely between pressing the unlock button and pressing the locking or trunk buttons you have to wait like ten seconds or so between functions. The red light in the review rapidly blinks after locking the car before blinking normally and not so the doors will lock at the same time, the little lock indicators on the door that go up and down will stay up and the driver, passenger and rear passenger door indicators will all go down and same with using the key not all doors will lock or unlock together your Will have to try a couple times before you get everything working however the inside button that locks out all the doors does work but you have to press it once and then like three doors will lock and then if you press it again all the doors will unlock and then you press it again then all four doors or a lock so the system is acting real crazy and when I go to reinitialize the key it won’t let me do it unless I turn the key in the ignition excel five times and then take the key out and then press the unlock and press the lock button three different times it might lock and unlock but I’m getting a lock and then the doors will not unlock so the system seems like it has a glitch in it what does it indicate is it because the key fob is too low on the battery
@@ProperRepair Please forgive meFor making such a long message I’m in a real bind here and I don’t want to have to spend the $300 to get a master key replacement from BMW so I’m wondering is this even a key issue or is this like a central locking the unit itself as it is an issue with that because sometimes the key will just completely stop working and I’ll have to get in the car by using the key in the door and that will disarm and arm the alarm but you know it’s I don’t know if the key fob is it bad or is it the central locking do you think please let me know thank you and again I apologize about the long messages
I will have to speculate in this case, but from what I've gathered, there is nothing wrong with your key fob. All doors should un/lock at the same time, if one door is consistently lazy this indicates to a bad motor issue. I have a video on replacing that. My suggestion is that you fix this issue first and then go from there.
@@ProperRepair I just attempted to initialize the key again and it worked. It locks the doors except for the drivers for the lock indicator thing is slightly up from its normal position but the red light still blinks rapidly like ten to twenty times before slowing to its normal blinking interval when everything is well and good. I’m worried about the rapid Blinking because that indicates perhaps somebody may be tried to get in the car before or perhaps the alarm is not going to sound if somebody tries to get in perhaps somethings not connecting properly I don’t know what it could be that’s not I’m in the car completely I don’t know do you know what it means but it just rapidly flashes but you get a normal lock Chirp and unlock Chirp you know everything else is OK and by the way thank you for telling me about the video do you is it in your video lineup for replacing the locking mechanism
Is there any way i can find is there inside id 44 or id 46 chip, without opening the key? Just by reading key backside? I hava e39 525d, year 2001 and i want to find spare key on aliexpress. But there are 2 model of key. I think your model is 46, without small black chip-code inside
To the best of my knowledge, BMW does not use the same style chip as those you can buy online and for E39 the ID44 type should be used. But I've never coded a key myself (yet).
@@ProperRepair This mean i can buy 44 version, but it cant work if i dont code it. I will try to pair it with original key. On aliexpress i read comments this key working. 10$ it is cheap,worth to try
Every new transponder chip needs to be "paired" with EWS. The cheapest way is by using the "AK90+" device, available via eBay and such.
You can still transplant the 8 pin ELMOS chip from one remote to the other. I've successfully done it, but you definitely need a hot air gun for that. You need to buy a donor key that is original BMW and has a working remote. If a remote is working than you can program it to the car, it will operate the doors, but you won't be able to start the engine. Once you know you have a good remote you can proceed further. You open both key shells, from your old key you need to desolder the EWS chip (ELMOS written on it), you than transplant your old chip to the working remote and than you put the assembled remote back into your old key shell. If everything done right you will have a working remote, an EWS chip that is known to the car and a key that matches the locks, all in one package.
New original key cost USD 400 in my country Perú.
Has someone figured out which toothbrush charger did he use?
It was similar to one shown here, but I do not know exact brand/model:
ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1kdXSXznuK1RkSmFPq6AuzFXaB/Travel-Charger-For-Philips-Sonicare-Heathy-White-Flexcare-Toothbrush-HX6100-HX8111-HX8141-HX8140-HX8211-HX8281-European.jpg
@@ProperRepair Thanks
Where did you buy the key fob emblem at?
eBay
Thats all well and good but what use is saying now get inside the car and pop the interior light off...etc...etc? If i had access to inside the car, i'd send it to a mechanic.. Im watching this precisely because i dont have access to inside the car.. The car wont unlock..
The case where the cylinder lock in the driver's door would not work is not something I predicted when making this video.
what if i dont have a keyfob? Suddenly only my drivers door locks, usually i turn key for 3 seconds to lock all doors, now only drivers stays locked, the others jump back up!
Headliner cloth repair time
Lol
Nu