Easiest and Fastest way to print on wood!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- In this quick tip I have already taken the painstaking efforts of trying out ALL OF THE OTHER TECHNIQUES on RUclips and I have found the BEST and EASIEST way to make inkjet photo transfers to wood in full color AND ranging from Rustic and "Chippy" to Full and Sharp! all you need is a handful of materials and some inkjet transparencies which can be bought on Amazon here:
Transparencies:
amzn.to/2D6xMeK
Polycrilic:
amzn.to/2CxIn2z
Watch this video all the way through, then go try it yourself. any craft like this takes time, materials, and many MANY mistakes to get right, but once you get it you will have o much fun doing it! and you can experiment and expand on this technique and comment below to tell me what you did differently!
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
guau....... never mind the content of the video..... I couldn't concentrate on the content!!!! You are so good looking... I am going to watch the video again.
🤗☺️😅. You should check out my latest videos after my haircut!
great stuff, mate!! Best method by far!
Thank you very much! Fun fact: all these years later and the pictures from this video are still sitting on my dresser in my bedroom!
Absolutely love this i will be trying this thank you
Awesome!!!
I‘be been using a water based polyurethane. Seems to work as well. Is polyacrylic tougher?
Polycrylic IS water based polyurethane
Hi, great tutorial. Can you coat the bare wood with polycrylic, let it dry, then coat it again and then lay the transparency down?
Probably. I never actually tried that... 🤔. It MAY provide for a smoother and less rustic look. If you try it shoot me an email or hit me up on Instagram and let me see your results!
thanks man.great video
Thank you!!
Nice work!
thanks!
In experimenting I found....had to buy knock off HP ink due to shortage, it didnt work nearly as well but it improved when I used a hair dryer to add some heat...
Good tip, I will try that.
awesome
Great video. I left the image on for at least 30 minutes because when I tried at 5 minutes it pulled away. It still pulled away at 30 minutes. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Maybe add a little more or a little less poly, make sure it is wet enough to get the image to transfer, but not so much that it just gels up the emulsion.
Would this work on a painted surface, do you think? Also, is the ink on the transparency delicate? Will it rub off easily? Been looking for a way to not buy a laser printer
Yes it will, but remember there are no whites coming from the printers so best case scenario is a white paint or lighter color, but just know that that color becomes your base white color
Do you get a film with the polycrylic like you do when trying this method with Liquitex?
sometimes, depending on the type I am using
I did exactly what you did and waited 15 to 20 minutes and the most of the ink was still on the transperency?
🤔 hmmmmm... try printing a test image and cut it into strips. Use each strip to test a different times and possibly different amounts of polycrylic. Once you figure out what works, try that time and amount combo and see if it works.
Do you apply the transfer when polycrylic is still wet?
yes, that way the water in the poly can activate the film and allow it to transfer.
Best and easiest way to do it! Thank you so much for your video! Honest and easy to follow! I hope you get millions of views you deserve it!
I would love that, lol
Hi, I've had 5 attempts of this and it just isn't working. I've tried more and less poly. I think it could be the transfer films.
They don't have the Appollo ones here over in the UK. The ones I am using have one side to print on but I wouldn't say the print side was how you describe yours to have like a gel coating. Do you think this could be the reason?
The ink just isn't separating from the transfers. Would appreciate your advise it is driving me crazy lol
Sorry to hear that you are having trouble. Try this…. Print off one large image and cut it into four or five equal pieces. Coatthe wood with a good amount of polyacrylic and definitely make sure it is water-based. Then apply each piece 20 seconds apart. For example, apply your first piece, wait 20 seconds apply your second piece, wait 20 seconds apply your third piece, etc.… keep track of how long your pizzas have been sitting in the polyacrylic. After your final piece has been sitting for 20 seconds remove all of the pieces at the same time. This will give you a good idea of how long it takes the transfer to occur. Too short and not enough ink will transfer, too long and it will all become blurry. Once you figure out the “sweet spot“ time try the image again and see if you can get the results you are looking for.
@@PMKWoodworking hi thanks so much for your reply. Just tried the 4 pieces and it's just not seperating the image from the transfers. If I put tons of poly on a tiny bit seperate but I'm talking the size of a little finger nail.
I've ordered some different types of transfers to try.
Do you think it could also be the wood? Or should it work on most wood surfaces.
I'm using sheets of Birch plywood.
Also checked the poly it's definitely water based.
@@katiestillwell560 Interesting. I'm also having trouble with sanded & cleaned birch plywood. Have you tried doing it over a lightly stained birch plywood? I'll try it this week.
Will this work with a spray can ???
Yes it will
What kind of printer did you use?
this one is specifically for inkjet so I purchased inkjet transfers here:
amzn.to/2GI9Ceb
They also sell transfers for laser as well.
Just trying this and my shit was too thin and got runny I’m thinking I didn’t let it sit long enough. Gonna try again later. Seems like it’s gonna work well if I let it sit longer tho
Oh, no! Yeah, hopefully if you let it sit a little bit longer to where it is still wet but somewhat “tacky“ you should get better results.
Wondering if a normal old picture would work or i am better off printing my photo on a sheat
it will only work with freshly printed photos as the ink has to be transferred.
Hi can you reuse the transparency sheet over and over or just the one time?
any spot where you have already printed and pulled the image off can not be reused. so for example, a large image that takes most of the sheet can be used only once, but a smaler image or multiple smaller images can be printed in different areas of the transparncy but each area can only be used once. once the emulson is gone there is nothing for the ink to adhere to on the transparency
OMG thank you i feel like all those other videos were trolls.
Thank you! I’m glad this worked for you
Will any water based polyurethane work?
it should
@@PMKWoodworking thanks.
will this technique work with laser prints (toner)?
it will IF you get TONER specific transfer sheets. give it a shot and try a few different ammounts of polycrylic and let me know what happens!
Is it the GLOSS Polycrylic?
whichever finish you want.
Great video top job 👍
Thanks For Watching!!!
Great video! Do you think it would work on reclaimed barn boards? Also, have you tried black and white?
im sure you could, just need to make sure its sanded well before startin
g
@@PMKWoodworking thank you so much. and have you tried with a black and white pic?
I have, and it works just as well.
@@PMKWoodworking great, thanks again
This is great! I’m making a wood American flag for a friend who lost their father. I want to transfer a photo of him onto the stripes area of the flag. When it comes to staining/painting the stripes, what would you recommend ad far as transferring picture first and painting around it? I read another reply where you talked about masking and or using some rubber cement. There seems to be so many ways to do this but I like how your ideas turned out. i look forward to your thoughts!
I would probably paint it first and then apply at least one coat of water-based polyurethane and allow it to fully dry. Then apply a flood coat of polyurethane and attempt to apply your transfer. Like the video shows. Remember, that there is no “white” in the transfer so the color variance will be pretty harsh between the red and white stripes.
Hi Phil. After putting the film down on the wood, rubbing, etc., when I peel, the imprint is green! The ink on the film is black. What did I do wrong? Thanks
Hhhmmmmm..... strange, never had that happen... maybe experiment with how long you leave it on before peeling, possibly shorter times possibly longer times. Also, remember that you’re putting the ink into a medium on wood and that will cause everything to change colors just a little bit depending on the color and species of your wood.
Will this work on basswood sheet?
Yes
wow doggo, he/she so amazing
Thanks, you can see more of his lazy butt on instagram: @Chillest_Shiba
Great video. I need to do something similar to this. But I need to have some text carved out on the wood. And then I need to stain it. I'm just thinking this through and I don't think I can stain around the image after it's transferred. Any ideas how to get the image on the wood and then stain the parts of wood that the image is not on?
Masking would be my first choice, give this a shot and see if it works for you.;
First take a border around the area that you want the image to eventually be contained in. Then, coat the area you just framed in with the tape with rubber cement for school projects. While the rubber cement is still wet, remove the tape so that you have clean edges where your picture is going to be transferred later.
Now, stain the wood as you normally would and I gently wiping some on waiting a few minutes then gently removing any excess and repeat this process until you obtain the color you want. Also apply your finish such as polyurethane, gel medium, lacquer or whatever you were going to coat the wood with at this point.
Once dry remove the rubber cement exposing the wood underneath. Tape off the stained parts you just finished, leaving the photo area still exposed and very gently sand just the exposed wood try not to hit the tape so that you don’t damage the finished wood underneath. Finally, using water-based polyurethane coat the entire surface of unexposed wood and do the photo transfer process shown in the video. What is dry, use the same finishing process shown in the video or apply a very light coat of polyurethane to the entire piece without smearing the photo transfer.
Just a rough example, but I think if you follow my instructions and adapt them to your project you may get some pretty good results! I’d love to see what you come up with, hit me up on Instagram when your project is done!
Hi, can u use any substitute for the polycrylic as it in the Uk? Also if you leave it to dry completely, would it still be possible to pull the transparent sheet off the wood and leave the image on the wood please?
You can probably use any crafting gel medium that is water-based.
@@PMKWoodworking thank you
There's a guy on RUclips that sands down one side (the side the ink goes on) rough with these transparency sheets. He then does what you did and it worked. He says making it rough gives the ink a place to stick to. He uses the sheets over and over. By chance have you tried this? Would you be willing to try and post the results?
I have tried it and was not successful, it just made a big inky mess... I also tried puttign mod podge on it and printing to that, and it still didnt work...
@@PMKWoodworking thanks for replying. I wonder if wax would work. Rubbing a white candle gently over the surface 🤔 Whatever substance, it has to hold onto the ink like the gel side of the transparency does.
Looks easy enough. But I tried this method, and when I lay the wet inkjet print onto the wet poly, it just bleeds everywhere. What am I doing wrong? Should I print it on a lower quality setting?
experiment a little with the brand of transfer you use and the amount of poly you use. you need just more than enough to wet the wood, but not enough to make it runny.
Keep trying, you'll get it!
👍
Thanks
I'm going to try this!
Let me know how it turns out.
Will this work on stained wood---minwax stain?
Yes, BUT keep in mind that your printer doesnt print ANY color for WHITE, so your images "White Tones" will always be the color of the wood.... so a light pine or poplar will create rich sepia tones, while a darker stain will make the photo look like it is severely underexposed!
Great tutorial. May I use the film many times?
You can depending on the size of your photos.
I printed multiple photos on the same sheet and cut them out to transfer to the wood. saves a little $$$
This looks like the best way!!
I like it, lol
Wow that is a great result. I just wondered can you print and do the transfer later in the day or do you have transfer it as soon as it is printed?
Since the ink becomes suspended in the emulsion. You can print later that day or even a day or so later.
Hi again, the transparency sheets you use are they waterproof? Thanks!
definately not. but once you apply the image to the wood it seperates the image from the transparency and you can just throw that part away.
This is the easiest way I have seen! I just started my own channel. I will definitely be using this technique! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I tried a bunch of different techniques and this is the FASTEST and EASIEST way I have found. there are a few "Cheaper" techniques, but they take WAY too long and the results are unreliable!
why quit screen printing? if you dont mind me asking.
Never really took off. After visiting a couple of large production shops I realized I would need a ton more equipment and it was a much bigger endeavor then I really wanted to do at the time. I still use the supplies from time to time to make my own T-shirts and stuff.
Could you use pva glue or gel medium instead of polycrylic?
probably could as long as it is water based and you dont drag it too much across the fished product. I hear that Mod odge is a good sealer as well.