Thanks Mike! This has me going in the right direction! 2004 E450/Winnebago. One question. Before I begin, the scenario of the A/C vents not operating under load was exactly as you say. Coming out thru the defrost upon accelerating. But now, it is a full time scenario. Idling or accelerating, the cool air is only coming out the defrost. It no longer comes out the A/C ducts at all. What do you suggest? Thank you very much!
For some reason the vacuum canister is special order in NE Florida at O'Reilly...I basically did what you did for the exception of reusing the grummet by expanding it to pass the new line. I pulled out the the grumet pushed a cablers fish through it that came out under the blower by the fender. I pulled the new line that way. Since the canister is special order and I wanted this done today, I used an inline check valve without the T connector. It actually works really well in NE Florida since it's pretty flat on all roads. I imagine if I were climbing hills it would be a different story. I will add the canister when it comes in. Thanks for the video, without it, I would not have known I needed the canister. I was originally fixing a vacuum leak on the original line.
Hi mike compre una van ford serie -e 150 y tiene el problema que solo sale aire x el desempañador de vidrio y los que ban al piso pero en las ventilas de enfrente no sale que me puedes sugerir aser 🤔 estoy pensando aser lo del video
I have a Ford F 53 chassis on my RV and I’m having that same problem do you happen to know where the vacuum canister is on my RV it’s a class a Winabago thank you very much
Hey Mike I Have a 2011 F150 and A/C works fine until I come to a stop and then I lose about 10° and temperature. My temperature driving is at 40° all day when I come to a traffic light or I sit in idle it’ll move up and lose about 10 to 20° and then drive again and go back to 40°. I know I have a problem with the recirculation door also not willing to function due to Ford better idea. I did find that it was broken and just positioned the ductwork in place. I had also replaced mode door actuator which I thought was bad but I don’t think so. All mode doors are functioning defrost vent floor properly. I noticed when I started up and I don’t turn any vent system on at all. Everything is shut down motor gets hot to operating temperature. I can feel blast of hot heat coming out the defrosting vent until I turned the AC on. can you help me out?
Mike thank you ... 2011 Econoline >>> I don't see the check valve ... It looks like the "red" vacuum line joins with a vacuum line that runs thru the fire wall as you indicated. However I don't see the check valve.. Where is it located ? thanks tony
How do you plumb into the small line under the dash (the line that you cut and left under the dash that leads to the controller manifold)? did you have to warm the line to get an adapter inside it, or did you do something more creative?
Thank you so much, nice video and thanks for sharing. One thing is still not clear to me is that three way valve, where is it located? I went and checked my e450 but couldn't see it anywhere, or is hidden down with the pipe and it will come out with the old v pipe when you pull it out? Thanks
Ik this is for a 2000s truck but i dont know where else to go to i have a 92 f150 4.9 and the problem is exactly this, i dont want to pay too much if its an easy and lasting fix and i want to do it at home,does anyone where i could start?
Thank you for the video. I think that is where my problem is. However I do not see where the new line goes u der earth the dashboard. Could you send a picture?
My AC switches to hot air in the vents on acceleration, to fix I shut it off for a minute and AC returns until I accelerate too much again. Different problem?
Our Ford econoline does that too. Shoots hot air out the back floor vents in the rear of the van. Hot as hell! During acceleration. Let me know if this fix works for that.
Hey Mike, David here , hoping you can help me out , I have the same problem on a 2017 e450, I replaced nearly everything under the dash , including the vacumn canister and the check valve , i moved the vacumn canister inside the van, ive checked all the connections, they are all hooked up right, and it's still doing the same thing , and every video I've watched says the same thing, I replaced the vacumn canister and the check valve twice, what ami I missing ? 0:05
@@thelimogarage9665 thanks for your video. I ended up following another video and opening up the hole around the gimlet by smashing through with a screwdriver. Then pulled the tee out and pulled the line to the old receiver off, it was dry rotted. I put a new piece of tubing between the old tee and a new reservoir. Just left the reservoir stuffed up under the glove box Worked for me. Thank you for your video it was one of the better ones.
GUAO,THE BEST VIDE I'VE FIND TODAY
Thanks to you tube videos I fixed the worn piece of hose and my ac is working like new again. Thank you !!!!!!!!!
After weeks of trouble shooting to no avail, I did this today and, voila, my ac works better than perfect now.
finally someone explained why it stops working and not just replace this and that
Took a while to find a good video on this problem, and you came through with a great fix! Thanks
Thanks brother. Really appreciate you showing the fix.
You just saved my life!! Thank you Sr. 👍🙏
Awesome video .
Thanks for your help.
Very descriptive
Best vid so far on this good job
I'm going to try this tonight on my expedition thanks for the video
Thank You just fixed my 09 E350 travel van!! You Rock!!
I'm glad this worked for you. You are very welcome.
You are the man Mike! Vacuum canister, who would have thought.
My 2002 looks a bit different but maybe I'll figure it out. Thx
I'm going to give this a try, mine switching from front vents to defroster vents when I accelerate.
Just bought a low mileage 03 E350 w same problem. Maybe this will fix it...thanks for posting Mike!
Thank you for the video Now I know where the problem is highly appreciated
Extremely helpful!!!
Thank you.
Going to give this a try. Thank you
Very helpful... awesome thanks
Amazing thank you thank you thank you every mechanic said it would be hours and it wasn’t worth it. This literally took an hour.
You are very welcome.
Thanks Mike 😊
Sure do miss the manual vent doors😂😂
Thank you so much
Wow, you are a genius
Thanks!
Gotta fix mine hopefully this works thanks
thank you for that tip
Now trying thanks a lot
Thank you
Thank You!!
Thanks Mike! This has me going in the right direction! 2004 E450/Winnebago. One question. Before I begin, the scenario of the A/C vents not operating under load was exactly as you say. Coming out thru the defrost upon accelerating. But now, it is a full time scenario. Idling or accelerating, the cool air is only coming out the defrost. It no longer comes out the A/C ducts at all. What do you suggest? Thank you very much!
For some reason the vacuum canister is special order in NE Florida at O'Reilly...I basically did what you did for the exception of reusing the grummet by expanding it to pass the new line. I pulled out the the grumet pushed a cablers fish through it that came out under the blower by the fender. I pulled the new line that way. Since the canister is special order and I wanted this done today, I used an inline check valve without the T connector. It actually works really well in NE Florida since it's pretty flat on all roads. I imagine if I were climbing hills it would be a different story. I will add the canister when it comes in. Thanks for the video, without it, I would not have known I needed the canister. I was originally fixing a vacuum leak on the original line.
Got mine on Amazon in a day:$21.46. Hope it helps.
@@russs3001 THANKS! I just got mine today...$21.99 I try to encourage local stores as much as I can, within reason, when the price is right.
I agree. Good point. @@affordableedc
How difficult is it to connect the new hose on the interior cabin-side (under the glovebox area)?
Throttle open makes les Vacum to the littel lines.
I need to know if the metal shape snake u shape metal line to the right an after market where you put freon is connected to called
Hi mike compre una van ford serie -e 150 y tiene el problema que solo sale aire x el desempañador de vidrio y los que ban al piso pero en las ventilas de enfrente no sale que me puedes sugerir aser 🤔 estoy pensando aser lo del video
I have a Ford F 53 chassis on my RV and I’m having that same problem do you happen to know where the vacuum canister is on my RV it’s a class a Winabago thank you very much
Hey Mike I Have a 2011 F150 and A/C works fine until I come to a stop and then I lose about 10° and temperature. My temperature driving is at 40° all day when I come to a traffic light or I sit in idle it’ll move up and lose about 10 to 20° and then drive again and go back to 40°. I know I have a problem with the recirculation door also not willing to function due to Ford better idea. I did find that it was broken and just positioned the ductwork in place. I had also replaced mode door actuator which I thought was bad but I don’t think so. All mode doors are functioning defrost vent floor properly. I noticed when I started up and I don’t turn any vent system on at all. Everything is shut down motor gets hot to operating temperature. I can feel blast of hot heat coming out the defrosting vent until I turned the AC on. can you help me out?
I can't find the part to order it. I'm at o'reilly @ the moment. Does anyone have a part number, or any advice as to where i can get the part?
When my ac is off. Burst of warm air comes out the vent when pushing gas down real good
I did this repair and it's still doing the same thing. Any suggestions?
How to fix on toyota vehicle? Any ideas?
Mike thank you ... 2011 Econoline >>> I don't see the check valve ... It looks like the "red" vacuum line joins with a vacuum line that runs thru the fire wall as you indicated. However I don't see the check valve.. Where is it located ?
thanks tony
The valve is in line to the canister usually only a few inches from it. If you can't recover it, just get a new one and install it on the new line.
Hey Mike, interesting procedure. I’m wondering if you do anything to eliminate the existing vacuum reservoir? Thanks Mike N
No need to. Once lines are pulled from it, it's out of the loop.
How do you plumb into the small line under the dash (the line that you cut and left under the dash that leads to the controller manifold)? did you have to warm the line to get an adapter inside it, or did you do something more creative?
One side goes to the manifold. Just tie the new line to the old one and fish it through.
Thank you so much, nice video and thanks for sharing.
One thing is still not clear to me is that three way valve, where is it located?
I went and checked my e450 but couldn't see it anywhere, or is hidden down with the pipe and it will come out with the old v pipe when you pull it out?
Thanks
It is on a very short line right at the canister. You won't see it unless you pull the line out.
@@thelimogarage9665 So you have to pull the hose from the top and hope the hose stays connected while it pulls off the old canister?
Thank you sr. Your video really help to me
Also, spend a few extra dollars and replace the check valve too.
How do you do this to a 2011 grand Marquis?
The GMQ has an electronic actuator, not vacuum.
Hey do you know what size the new vacuum lines should be?
My question as well and how many feet of it.
Ik this is for a 2000s truck but i dont know where else to go to i have a 92 f150 4.9 and the problem is exactly this, i dont want to pay too much if its an easy and lasting fix and i want to do it at home,does anyone where i could start?
It's definitely the same design. Ford used this setup for many years. You just have to locate the vacuum canister, replace it and the line.
Mine stops blowing out of the normal vents and blows out of the windshield defrost. Could that be a different line?
NO, SAME THING
Thank you for the video. I think that is where my problem is. However I do not see where the new line goes u der earth the dashboard. Could you send a picture?
If you pause the video when I'm under the glove box, you will see the black vacuum line that comes through the fire wall.
Right on, thank you
You are very welcome
My AC switches to hot air in the vents on acceleration, to fix I shut it off for a minute and AC returns until I accelerate too much again. Different problem?
Our Ford econoline does that too. Shoots hot air out the back floor vents in the rear of the van. Hot as hell! During acceleration. Let me know if this fix works for that.
I had to replace from front AC B
Hey Mike, David here , hoping you can help me out , I have the same problem on a 2017 e450, I replaced nearly everything under the dash , including the vacumn canister and the check valve , i moved the vacumn canister inside the van, ive checked all the connections, they are all hooked up right, and it's still doing the same thing , and every video I've watched says the same thing, I replaced the vacumn canister and the check valve twice, what ami I missing ? 0:05
I would start looking for vacuum leaks. Possibly near the engine or on the firewall.
So you are leaving the old reservoir connected to the vacuum system and just adding a new reservoir?
No, the line that I pulled from the firewall under the glove box went to the original.
@@thelimogarage9665 so I think it wasn't clear where that check valve is it's basically at the end of the line that you're pulling up
Correct, the check valve is on the old line going to the old Vacuum reservoir . Try to fish the old line up and re-use the valve.
@@thelimogarage9665 thanks for your video. I ended up following another video and opening up the hole around the gimlet by smashing through with a screwdriver. Then pulled the tee out and pulled the line to the old receiver off, it was dry rotted. I put a new piece of tubing between the old tee and a new reservoir. Just left the reservoir stuffed up under the glove box Worked for me. Thank you for your video it was one of the better ones.
I'm glad I was able to help. I learned this trick years ago. It saves hours of work.
Spent 40 bucks....broke my ass 2 hrs....still has same issue....just tie wrap the solonoid on top dash in the vent....closed position
My check valve only has 1 air inlet and 1 outlet.
That's correct
how do we get a hold of you is there an email?
Call or text me
386-237-2998
Dude, THANK YOU! You the man!
this line that line. how confusing