Hi Hugh, interesting that you left a gap in the sealant so that air can expand in and out. However...this would let water under and when it freezes in the cold the ice will expand a good deal more than air will and with much greater force. Especially as you left the gap on the leading edge. Indeed air will expand out of any pinprick sized hole so would more likely not produce a problem...water however will.
This is a valid point but they gap is at the back of the van and based on the curve of the roof if water lands near the gap in the sealant it falls away from it towards the rear
Useful to remember, but silicone does stretch, so (depending on “how much” water, and “how much” silicone) it ought to have enough give. As Hugh says, the water will drain to the curve of the roof, maybe next time leave some drainage at the low spots, front and back, as well.
Great content Hugh, and thank you for the warning of the live wires - I’m sure it will be in the fitting instructions, but of all the videos I’ve watched, you are the first (that I remember) who has mentioned this very important safety tip!
A tip: from experience I can tell you that if only one leaf is on the solar panel, its efficiency is halved. So, the luggage racks will drastically reduce the load efficiency through their shadow.
@@dan_ll At 4:52 you have a luggage bar that always shadows 3 of the 32 cells in the panel. The 32 cells are connected in series and if 1 cell (3 in your case) stays in the shade the panel will only produce a maximum of 10-15% of capacity even if it is sunny outside.
I don't understand why you added the 2 grommets in the water channel and am I right in thinking the blackbox that feeds the cable from the solar is facing the wrong way around so water will enter the cable entry holes when driving in rain ?? I can see water leaks being an issue in the near future on this install.
The grommets in the water need to be in as when it rains the water will run done the cables and into the right? I am no expert on these thing but that’s how I see it (could be wrong)? And the black box is the wrong way. But the screw bits (don’t know there name lol)where the cable go through have rubber in them so when you tighten them it will make it water tight round the cable entry. Like I said I could be wrong? 👍
Yes the box is orientated the 'wrong' way but water ingress is extremely unlikely. The tension the rubber has on the cables is very high so I am not worried
I have 2 similar panels (just bigger) glued to the roof of my Iveco for 1.5 years now and been to hot climates, no problem at all. I did leave more gaps in the glue lines though for more air circulation (if there is any at all being so close to the roof 😂).
Getting a nice finish on the silicon etc i just used the blunt end of a drill bit of the right dia to smooth out the surface,that gave you a lovely concave even bead,leave for about an hour so partial cured and you should be able to peel the excess of . Any stubborn bits we used to make up small perspex scrapers to remove those. (the perspex doesn't scratch the surface ) . Another way is to put a mix of soapy water into a spray bottle and spray along the bead prior to using the drill bit.
My three 10O watt flex panels worked very well in Spain last summer . Not as good as my friends solid glass single 275 watt panel . However now back in the uk in November I need to top up with alternator as very little charge .. I am not convinced I will get more than 3 years out of them but we will see !
Not sure if it works with CT1 or Sikka Flex etc but the trick with silicone is do a mix of 3-4 parts water and 1 part clear washing up liquid. Apply an even bead (around worktop or bath etc. Then dip finger or tool in the mix and wipe. Clean finger and tube nozzle with kitchen towel and do next bit. I never mastered silicone until I found this trick.
I know you agreed that method of fixing and cabling with the customer but personally I'd have done it the other way. The external route for the cables is just more opportunity for leaks in the future, I guess only time will tell. You did a nice job on it anyway, very neat. 👍🏻
Good one, looks neat. I'd be looking to add aluminium "U" channel on the underside on the Roof rack and slide the solar panel into the U channel, stiffened with a sheet of plywood, if required ?
You can lick your finger before smoothing out sealants. Works a treat, BUT, be advised sikaflex contains isocyanate, so don't keep doing it without washing your hands.
I'm pretty sure a builder friend of mine told me to get water with washing up liquid in to use for wiping-shaping silicone, stops it gripping to your finger, as soon as you put that cable box on I thought, feed the wire first! haha
@@mmartin4978 probably similar, i sold my van but what i did was use an inline fuse, the type the breaks physically similar to the ones car audio people use. Its black and has a red switch on it.
My 250w German/Austrian made flexible panel has a maximum operating temperature of 86°C. It is just glued to the roof of my Relay. 4.5 years and no problems... so far.👍
When working with a solar panel I’ve learnt to put a blanket on them , great vid thanks for the ideas
Hi Hugh, interesting that you left a gap in the sealant so that air can expand in and out. However...this would let water under and when it freezes in the cold the ice will expand a good deal more than air will and with much greater force. Especially as you left the gap on the leading edge. Indeed air will expand out of any pinprick sized hole so would more likely not produce a problem...water however will.
This is a valid point but they gap is at the back of the van and based on the curve of the roof if water lands near the gap in the sealant it falls away from it towards the rear
Useful to remember, but silicone does stretch, so (depending on “how much” water, and “how much” silicone) it ought to have enough give. As Hugh says, the water will drain to the curve of the roof, maybe next time leave some drainage at the low spots, front and back, as well.
I have a 'stealthy' Citroen Berlingo and was looking for a stealthy solar panel ....you have given me the answer Hugh baby! Great video and tips :)
No problemo!
A nice neat job. I'm sure they were pleased.
Great content Hugh, and thank you for the warning of the live wires - I’m sure it will be in the fitting instructions, but of all the videos I’ve watched, you are the first (that I remember) who has mentioned this very important safety tip!
No problem Martin, happy fitting!
A tip: from experience I can tell you that if only one leaf is on the solar panel, its efficiency is halved. So, the luggage racks will drastically reduce the load efficiency through their shadow.
Using an MPPT solar charge controller will negate for the effect of partial shadow on the panel. What size leaves are you referring to?
@@dan_ll At 4:52 you have a luggage bar that always shadows 3 of the 32 cells in the panel. The 32 cells are connected in series and if 1 cell (3 in your case) stays in the shade the panel will only produce a maximum of 10-15% of capacity even if it is sunny outside.
I don't understand why you added the 2 grommets in the water channel and am I right in thinking the blackbox that feeds the cable from the solar is facing the wrong way around so water will enter the cable entry holes when driving in rain ?? I can see water leaks being an issue in the near future on this install.
The grommets in the water need to be in as when it rains the water will run done the cables and into the right? I am no expert on these thing but that’s how I see it (could be wrong)? And the black box is the wrong way. But the screw bits (don’t know there name lol)where the cable go through have rubber in them so when you tighten them it will make it water tight round the cable entry. Like I said I could be wrong? 👍
Yes the box is orientated the 'wrong' way but water ingress is extremely unlikely. The tension the rubber has on the cables is very high so I am not worried
@@karljepson6560 the black screw in bits are called CABLE GLANDS and when done up tight won't allow water ingress
I have 2 similar panels (just bigger) glued to the roof of my Iveco for 1.5 years now and been to hot climates, no problem at all. I did leave more gaps in the glue lines though for more air circulation (if there is any at all being so close to the roof 😂).
Getting a nice finish on the silicon etc i just used the blunt end of a drill bit of the right dia to smooth out the surface,that gave you a lovely concave even bead,leave for about an hour so partial cured and you should be able to peel the excess of . Any stubborn bits we used to make up small perspex scrapers to remove those. (the perspex doesn't scratch the surface ) . Another way is to put a mix of soapy water into a spray bottle and spray along the bead prior to using the drill bit.
Cheers John, someone else mentioned about the soapy water mix! Will have to try it out
Excellent video 👍
My three 10O watt flex panels worked very well in Spain last summer . Not as good as my friends solid glass single 275 watt panel . However now back in the uk in November I need to top up with alternator as very little charge .. I am not convinced I will get more than 3 years out of them but we will see !
Good luck Hugh 👍
3m tape or equivalent is less messy than glue and works great on Flexi panels and keeps an air gap under them for air flow
Not sure if it works with CT1 or Sikka Flex etc but the trick with silicone is do a mix of 3-4 parts water and 1 part clear washing up liquid. Apply an even bead (around worktop or bath etc. Then dip finger or tool in the mix and wipe. Clean finger and tube nozzle with kitchen towel and do next bit. I never mastered silicone until I found this trick.
Funnily enough I found this trick not too long ago but lost the quantities so cheers for this! Will try next time
I know you agreed that method of fixing and cabling with the customer but personally I'd have done it the other way. The external route for the cables is just more opportunity for leaks in the future, I guess only time will tell. You did a nice job on it anyway, very neat. 👍🏻
Cheers Patrick!
Good one, looks neat. I'd be looking to add aluminium "U" channel on the underside on the Roof rack and slide the solar panel into the U channel, stiffened with a sheet of plywood, if required ?
Hey Remus, yeah you could definitely do it that way and also add a few holes in the ply for extra air!
You can lick your finger before smoothing out sealants. Works a treat, BUT, be advised sikaflex contains isocyanate, so don't keep doing it without washing your hands.
Cheers Andrew
I'm pretty sure a builder friend of mine told me to get water with washing up liquid in to use for wiping-shaping silicone, stops it gripping to your finger, as soon as you put that cable box on I thought, feed the wire first! haha
Cheers Malcolm! A few people have mentioned this, will have to give it a go, cheers
As always Hugh delivers a great video with loads of smart tips. Dude you rock, keep up the good work. I love your content.
Thanks Danny!
i had mine stuck to the roof of my transit the same model with no issues, in fact the panel is so powerful it blew fuses. So uprated them.
hi what were your fuse rating before and after i noticed Hugh seemed to be using 25A and it looks like the panel can only deliver 4A max thanks
@@mmartin4978 probably similar, i sold my van but what i did was use an inline fuse, the type the breaks physically similar to the ones car audio people use. Its black and has a red switch on it.
Top job Richard!
Bonjour merci pour votre vidéo de présentation cordialement
At 9:56 - where do you get these "Titan grips" from?? I need some!!
Thanks for sharing the video :)
My 250w German/Austrian made flexible panel has a maximum operating temperature of 86°C. It is just glued to the roof of my Relay. 4.5 years and no problems... so far.👍
Awesome to hear Carl!
What make are your panels please.
Shadows will reduce the harvest to just 20-30% max.
as mentioned in the video the customer wanted to keep the roof rack even though it cast a shadow
Surely that would depend on how much shadow was cast? It didn’t look like there was that big a shadow
yay
Cables too long but then you join them outside? Why did you cut and join them? Sorry if I'm being thick
The cables from the panel are only a certain length which wouldn't of been able to reach inside the van even if not cut so had to splice outside.
The kit from bimble has only one breaker included. Did you just double up on that when you ordered?
Yes, I am not 100% sure why they only include one but for added safety it's much nicer to have a fuse before and after MPPT
Shame about the roof bar, that panel is almost usless with that shading it.
Not useless and I did warn them but they were happy to proceed. Based on their feedback though it is providing them will all the power they need.
any need for venting beneath it?
no you should be fine
Furthermore 19v wont bite you.
Link for the panel please?
The seller isn’t selling anymore but if you look for renogy 175w flexible solar panel. You should find some
Noob