Support and Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in this video- amzn.to/2av8s3q Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos- amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos- amzn.to/2b9oXYl Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Out of all the RUclips videos explaining the wiring, specifically the AUX and Emergency heat wires, you explained it the best. I went 6 years with a heat strip that was not working. Although I'm in Sacramento, it still gets cold at night in the winter, and I never understood why the unit started grinding away all night and not producing heat when the outside temp was below 32. Turned out it was just a 40 amp fuse. Replaced it, and man, that's some good winter heat now, that comes on when there's a 3 degreed spread between the setpoint and the inside temp.. Thanks for helping me understand it's operation!
This is my same issue!! Live in sac and if it’s below 40 my heat pump won’t heat the house!!! It was 61 degrees inside the house this morning. I need help
I’m also in Sacramento looking up why I’m not getting best heat when it’s reaching 38 degree outside. I reset breaker, clean out contact terminal and clean sensor connection. The heat works but not as hot and was curious what AUX means, now I get it. The key thing is I don’t recall reading “ heat strips” in my manual. I understand heat pump and the valve but never came across heat strip til this video. Is it located in the attic blower? Or outside condenser fan motor ?
@@sarahfowler1601did you figure it out? I bought temp radar gun harbor freight and my heat show 90 degrees out the vent. But I’m going to test it during day and I think should be reading higher
Thank you! I had a new heat pump and thermostat "professionally" installed a few weeks back. Came back from being out of town last night to find that the aux heat (heat strip) didn't work. This was the first time it was cold enough to need it. While waiting for the HVAC company to return my call, I cracked open the manuals for the heat pump, air handler, and t-stat. Having zero HVAC experience, it was still a little confusing. By 3:15 in this video, it was clear to me that the white wire was connected for a conventional system vs. heat pump. I was relaxing in a warm house by the time the HVAC company called back.
saved my bacon. thank you. last technician left our aux connected to the reversing wire (at the air handler). so when the heat was needed it was just activating the reversing valve thinking it was the heat strips since, from the thermostats point of view, the heat pump wasn't keeping up. With this I was able to get the strips and the reversing valve straightened out. we don't use much heat most winters so this went two years undiscovered.
I added a new thermostat but I forgot to take a picture of the old one with the wires on it so I was lost. I kept blowing fuses but after watching your video I got it hooked up correctly and now it works, thank you very much.
OK well I thought I had it hooked up right but it wasn't working once the weather got really cold and I had to call a heating and air conditioning company they came up checked it all out and said I had it hooked up wrong. They hooked it up right and now it works good
Very good video! I have a trane package heat pump and a touchscreen trane thermostat and I believe the wiring is incorrect because my auxiliary heat will not kick on when the pump falls behind, the only way I can get the temperature back up is turning the emergency heat on. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Switch to smart thermostat (like I did to ecobee) and then go to advanced settings of the ecobee. You can set the thresholds to when heat pump triggers "emergency heat strips"
Excellent explanation, thank you. I have RH and RC tied together. Can you explain that? Actually I have the red wire on RH and it's jumpered to RC. White on W Yellow on Y Green on G Black on C Orange on O White on W
Silly question in Florida we use heat pumps versus resistance heating and the heat pump wiring configuration versus conventional. The odd part is my Honeywell has the white wire into aux/E and no other w connections terminated in the existing Honeywell thermostat. However, I am Hooking up to a smart thermostat with a W/E connector I assume that is where I put the white wire as it is really an aux configuration with an Orange o/b setting for the bar? The smart app said my schematic is good and everything seems to work but I don’t want something to happen in the winter when heat turns on lol
So the majority of Heat pumps use the O terminal on @ the thermostat with the reversing valve being energized in the cooling mode keeping the refrigerant flowing normal direction correct?
So quick question, in most HP applications the stat controls the fan not the equipment? (ie if you were to jump Y and R you would get heat pump but no fan) unlike a gas furnace setup where if you jump R and W1 you get heat and fan?
I have a heat pump with 95% efficient gas furnace, (not my design) I do not want the heat pump to run EVER. I was going to install a nest stat but without using the orange O wire like it was not a heat pump. Now that I saw this video I think that will stop the A/C from working. I would have to install the nest as "duel fuel" which requires pro set up only. I do not want to spend $150+ because I do not have the pro access code. Looks like I am forgetting about even having a smart stat. You saved me some grief if I'm interpreting this right.
I replaced a honeywell thermostat, and older one with a newer one of the same model. The old one had a jumper between E and AUX but the new one didn't, does the new one need the jumper too?
Great video. Is there a way to have the heat strip turn on when the unit goes into defrost mode so it doesn’t blow cold air into the ductwork? Or have heat strip turn on continuously when thermostat is calling for heat and recirculating fan is running.?
The heat pump has a 24v output W wire that is supposed to go to the heat strips to turn them on during defrost. It isn't done via the thermostat but from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit, thanks
I live in a basement i kept telling the landlord its blowing cold air and at times its smell like fumes coming out of the vent..dont know why but we kept having heated arguments over this same problems. Do u know why that happens
Mine is set up this exact same way except the black wire is in W1 with the connector piece to W2 and the white and brown wire aren’t in use. Why would the black wire be used in W1 and W2 instead of the white wire. If I’m changing out my thermostat to a nest, would I leave the black wire as W1 in the nest system and remove the connector then still leave white and brown wires in used? Thanks so much!
Where do you check low voltage at the air handler or package unit without a common from the thermostat? Do you just use a common some where in the unit? Say I'm trying to see if the O terminal is energized without a common from thermostat on a package unit for example. Appreciate all your videos and knowledge!
Hopefully by now (a year later), you have found your answer, elsewhere; however, in the case that you haven't or for anyone reading and asking themselves the same question.. here's your answer and then some. The thermostat, itself, receives power from the RED (R) wire (24VAC) and the power flows out via the BLUE or Common (C) wire. So, essentially with those 2 hooked up, there is no "need" for batteries. I say that; however, if you have a thermostat that has specific programming/settings/schedules/temperatures set, etc. by all means, keep the batteries in there as a backup source of power. The batteries' purpose is for the simple convenience of retaining all of those settings, within the thermostat, in case the power goes out or you need to flip the main breaker in your house, for some examples. **(Think: alarm clocks. Remember when people used those, instead of their phones or their favorite home assistant to wake up? Oftentimes, most people would keep a battery installed in the alarm clock, in addition to having it plugged into a wall outlet, in order to keep the time and alarm(s) saved, in case of an unexpected power outage.)** Further, regarding the particular model featured in the video, a Honeywell Pro 3210, perhaps, it's a simple and basic thermostat that is pretty straight forward and has standard modes 'n' settings. If you have one of these, as I do, you already know. The most advanced you'll get on that model, is programming your thermostat to match your system type, setting the cycles per hour (CPH) of the Emergency (E) and Auxilary (Aux) Heat, the Compressor startup wait time (default: 5 mins, though 3 mins is satisfactory) and if you want your temp to read in Fahrenheit or Celsius (fun for a quick laugh, as I did this once and watched as my wife looked at me, puzzled, as the thermostat read "23" (Celsius) in the summertime). If you're still reading, there are also some basic system tests you don't have to be an HVAC tech to run through, if you're also a DIY'er and like to run through your own system maintenance checks in between annual tech visits. I hope this helps somebody out there. I'm not an HVAC technician. Just a guy, with a mind and a passion for mechanics and anything that has moving parts. God Bless!
Can you change the 3 degree differential to 5 as I like to sleep cooler but in the morning I would need to burn resistance heating to gain back the temperature while I want to used the heat pump.
What's your thoughts on Rheem and Ruud. Specifically in southern California if you don't have access to natural gas? I figured it would be better since doesn't get very cold and reversing valve this power heating and cooling . I would love to hear opinion.
Yeah if Rheem or Ruud heat pump reversing valve goes bad it typically still works in cooling mode non powered. Yeah it depends on your exact year round climate for deciding between gas heat or heat pumps, thanks!
thank you, you really explained the wiring great so we were able to see what was wrong with ours, the E and Y were reversed so we switched them and now it works great!! your the best repair person on the internet lol
My thermostat has a wire going into the B terminal but I do not have a Ruud or Rheem hvac unit. I have a Oxbox Heat Pump system. Is this normal? There is no wire going into terminal O on my thermostat as well.
Great video thank you! Getting ready to install a new heat pump thermostat for my mom. She has Heat, Cool, and Emer Heat (heat strips in the air handler). So my question is, should the outdoor unit run when Emer Heat is selected or are they mutually exclusive? Again thanks so much!
3 months late to your question. HVAC tech here. In heat pump application both indoor and outdoor units run in COOL, and HEAT mode only. When in EM or AUX mode only the indoor unit will run, unless it is too cold in the home, typically 3° then the unit will turn on both heat pump AND aux heat. Think of it like a fan flowing across a toaster oven. That’s how the EM heat produces hot air, at the cost of electricity. When possible, run heat mode but if this mode breaks run EM heat. Also to note getting an annual or bi annual system check by a professional company to check these modes and the operation to keep you up to date and maintain the system 👍🏼
I'm switching out an amana t-stat for the pro 3000, maybe a dumb question but my amana has a separate black/brown wire for e heat, do I need to still jump e and aux. I haven't done this in a couple decades and I'm old. I think I don't need a jumper but please confirm for me. Thanks from an old const. superintendent.
Question, I have everything wired correctly, and can confirm the unit is a heat pump due to the reversing valve in the condenser unit, and the wires coming to the thermostat, however, when the thermostat is configured for a forced air heat pump, the blower does not come on when called for cooling, which is not good. Only when the unit is set for Conv. Forced Air the blower turns on with the compressor. Both heating and cooling work, but I have no control over when the expensive AUX heat strips turn on, and would like to set it to only turn on when the heat droop is about 5 degree. The thermostat is a Honeywell TH8321WF1001. Thanks again!
You would need the s1 and s2 hooked up to an outdoor temp sensor to control aux strips like that. It sounds like the tstat is not sending power to the g wire for fan. Do you have 24v from g to c at the indoor unit when calling for cooling?
Thanks for your quick response! Well, the T-stat has internet connection and can pull outside temperature from the internet to control strips, (if I can figure out what's going on). I'm just puzzled as to why the blower does not run when configured for heat pump mode for cooling, but runs fine in Conventional forced air since G is being energized. Something is either not configured right or wired right at the inside unit?
Yeah sounds right, turn the power off at the indoor unit and check to make sure your g tstat wire connects to g terminal on the board at the indoor unit, thanks
thanks for all your videos,I have learned a lot from you.I have a request if is possible to do a video on programing 5000 and over Honeywell termosthats, I installed a heat pump a few days ago and it gave a headache.Thanks again Ruben
programable termosthats, which numbers are for compressors delay, degrees Fahrenheit and celcius,heat and cooling,limit tempeture in heat and cooling. thanks again.
I have a whirlpool pump. I have the blue common, orange O, green, red, yellow Y. now my question is I have a white that goes to W2. I was told to connect this to the "E" port on a new Honeywell thermostat not the W2 port. Do you think that's correct?
Thankyou, you made it very understandable! Do you always put a jumper between the aux and emergency terminals? I have a 2004 2 1/2 ton Lennox heat pump. I read somewhere about an emergency heat relay.
I just bought a new Honeywell RTH 9585 thermostat to use with my Trane heat pump which is all electric. it also has Aux heat and Emergency heat on the original Trane thermostat. Why do Honeywell thermostats not have an individual W connector? Which has the white wire hooked to it on the original thermostat? My new Honeywell has a combination O or W connector and I contacted Honeywell and they said to put the O=Orange wire to that terminal and put the both the White and the Black wires to the single Aux/E connector.
I was trying to upgrade a heat pump thermostat today for a customer and I had everything wired the same way as usual. Once I started the system in cooling the heat pump started running in heat mode. After trying multiple things nothing would change. I then installed the old thermostat and the system went back into cooling mode once again. Any ideas of why this would happen? Any input on this would be helpful.
@ 2:59 you say that "AUX is for if the thermostat ends up getting 3 degrees higher than what it's calling for", I think you mean to say it is for when the thermostat is set for 3 degrees higher than the current temperature setting, yes?
I have a straight air condenser and a heat pump air handle they are both rheem ruud, the thermostat is honeywel. Id like to run my heat strips on heat instead of emergency heat. How can I do that? Switch some wires around?
Im stumped. Trying to install a smart tstat that requires a C wire. Ive got 29V from R to Y, G, O at my tstat. My R to C has 29v at the heat pump unit. I ran a blue wire from the C terminal at the heat pump unit down to the tstat. The other end of the same blue wire that reads 29v at the heat pump only reads 16 to 17v at the tstat end of the wire. WTF? What would cause the wire to lose 10 Volts? Its no longer than 7 feet of length (at least that's the physical distance from the tstat to the bryant heat pump unit on the roof. The connection to the C term is solid. There is continuity. Somehow, as that blue wire is snaking through the drywall down to the tstat it is losing 10 volts. I can't explain that. I tried a different wire, and same result. 17 volts. Makes no sense.
Thank you for the video. I have an older York heat pump and York furnace. After installing my new honeywell tstat the system cycles on and off very frequently. It really annoying. This shows the thermostat wiring, but where should these wire land at the heat pump and furnace. I think whoever wires those did it wrong. How do you wire the "system" from to tstat to heat pump, to furnace?
The retail (RTHXXXX) Honeywell thermostats generally don't offer any kind of temperature hysteresis/swing/cycle per hour adjustment setting, the cycle rate is fixed at 1*F I generally find that's pretty reasonable but prefer a wider swing at the expense of "comfort" in favor of economy, as you describe. Reduced cycling is also easier on the equipment due to reduced startup cycles and slightly longer run times. The FocusPro (THXXXX) versions do have a cycle per hour adjustment feature which offers some degree of control. These are the pro contractor versions, not the retail versions. These pro versions also offer some adjustability for when aux strip heat is energized (econ/comfort). I'm not sure if this also applies to the higher end Honeywell retail thermostats but it might.
I received a Powerly Thermostat and wireless controller from AEP of OHio and am wondering about the thermostat wiring for my all electric house with a heat pump and auxillary furnace.Most wires are clear to me as they are plain to view and correlate to all thermostats I have ever installed. My problem is there is eight wires of which seven were connected to the old thermostat via a simple color coded hookup. On the Powerly thermostat there is no color code. THere is only designation of lettering. O,B, W1,W@ RH,RC, C, Y1 or Y, Y2, and G. The housing shows one(left) hookup of W1 and W2 on one side and O/B and AUX on other side of left. W is O/B and AUX is W2. On the right if RH/RC, C, Y, Y2, and G. Like I said, I have eight wires of which seven were on the old digital thermostat. I've got 6 hooked up and the last one is blue on the old thermostat so where does it go on the new wireless on by Powerly? Any ideas?
That yellow thing to the right, is that a Dimethoxyethane DMM? You mention wires touching... wouldn't a volt meter be a great way of showing relays and solenoids energizing?
Here is the video with that setup while using the multimeter. I just happened to split one long video up into two smaller chunks. Sorry I didn't use it in that one, thanks Jules- ruclips.net/video/HenOWUDX8PQ/видео.html
Anthony, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see! Anthony, you would just jumper 1st and 2nd speed in the thermostat together and run one wire out for cooling to the air handler and single speed ac unit, thanks
I have a 4000 series honeywell thermostat with the same exact wire connection configuration that you show in this video. I am replacing a trane thermostat that quit working. Question I have is that I have a white wire and an X2 wire. From what I have been able to find out looking around online is to connect white wire to AUX and tape off the X2 wire. Is that correct?
I have an older Goodman GPG13240701 heat pump paired with a braeburn 1200 thermostat. My heat pump won't stay on. I took the thermostat off to see the wire hookup, there are only 4 wires, Red (R), Green (G), Black (E/W1), and Yellow (Y1). Outside the thermostat wire into the heat pump circuit board does not have a black wire. It has Red, Yellow, Orange, White, Green, and Blue (not connected). Is the thermostat wired incorrectly?
We've got a Rheem Dual Fuel system with an outdoor sensor and I'm trying to switch to a newer (TH8321WF1001) thermostat. The previous one has S1 and S2 connections, but the new one has two S1 connections? Is that a problem or should I just connect the two previous wires to the two S1 terminals? Thanks and great video!
The S1 and S1 are for indoor or outdoor sensors so yeah you can connect there and then enter programming to let it know that these are for the outdoor sensor, thanks!
So on my old thermostat white wire is going to terminal that says W1/O/B but on my new thermostat that’s not there instead one says O/B and another Terminal says W/E my question is where does the white wire go
Hey thanks for the video! Question. I know that the E wire will go into the Y2 slot. But if I have a O and a B wire, where will they go? Will the O go into the O/B slot, and leave the B wire out?
I don't expect you to reply, but if I shot a fast 1 minute video of my thermostat - do you think you could help me ? .... I just turned my heat on today, and the stupid thermostat thinks I have a heat pump, so the heat coming from the furnace is not very warm. I heard my air conditioner actually go on when I put it into heat mode... so I turned it all off and went outside and unplugged the fuse beside my central air conditioner air unit outside ) ... then came back in turned it back on ( the furnace ) and it said heat on with heat pump..... anyway, the air conditioning guy was here about 3 months ago and didn't change any wiring, but did do something to the thermostat - he changed a code on it, on the digital display which made this error start happening. Thank you.
I would pull the fact of the thermostat off to find the model number, look up the model in google and also type manual or installation instructions and you will find how to get into your settings for that particular thermostat. Then just set it to furnace instead of heat pump, thanks
Hi there, THANK YOU. Wow. I did you what you said, and RUclips'd it and after a few minutes of looking I found a video on the *exact* model I have ( White-Rodgers model ) . It goes through all the process. Thank goodness for these videos. Thank you for your help ! I have the thing back in "heat" only mode. ✅✅✅ I don't wish to pull people way from your channel, so won't put any direct link to the video I watched, but am very glad I found your channel, and am happy you were around to offer assistance.
Hi AC Service tech: How does the thermostat control the fan speed theough the green wire? Does it change the voltage level or does it use a pulse width modulation (duty cycle) to achieve this?
G will only power one speed but if the board also recieves a signal on the y then it will move to the higher speed. A modulating air handler or furnace will control the variable air speed via the control board, thanks!
I need the help of all your experts, every time I take the temperature up and down due to the change of the weather, and then my heating unit is not working. What I want to know is the air handler or heat pump compressor problem. The technician can only work is replacing the "fuse". But one month later, it happened again and again. Technicians only change the fuses again and again. Any help would be appreciated.
If they are changing the low voltage fuse over and over but it is intermittent and don't know the cause, just take one thing out of play at a time. Replace the tstat wire going to the thermostat. See if it happens again. Then replace the outdoor tstat wire, wait, replace the tstat, wait so on and so forth. Unfortunately intermittent problems are rough and we can only fix it if we can see the problem. The rule is though, don't just do the same thing over and over. Try something, thanks
I have a loosely related question. I have a bonus room over my garage that has its own zone of hydro heating and cooling on an air-handler in the attic. Works great. This bonus room also has hot-water baseboard as a supplemental heat source. Currently, there are 2 thermostats in the room, one for the air-handler, and one that goes to a Taco switching relay in the basement to trigger the furnace and circulator for the baseboard heat (only baseboard in the whole house, rest is all hydro-air). So my question is, can I change to one thermostat in that bonus room? So when I set the thermostat to call for heat it calls to the air-handler and the baseboard?
Yes if you separate the voltage of the two systems with a 12amp fan relay. So the heat signal would power the fan relay and then the power wire for the other system would get connected to the switch in the relay and then go back to the system as a call for heat, thanks
RH and RC are sometimes jumpered, but in your case i bet they just used different colors. I have no clue why anyone would jump Y & W.. Im curious to know this answer also
I have carrier heatpump model 50VT-48---30TP. The thermostat was honeywell TH522OD1029 with 6 wires hooked up to it.The wires were R=red Y=yellow C=white O/B=orange G=green AUX=blue AUX+E = Orange wire jumper. The R and RC jumpered also the E and AUX jumpered. I installed a ecobee 4 smart thermostat it would not allow E and AUX to jumped. I put my aux wire on the w1 on my ecobee4 . My question is will the new thermostat go into defrost mode in the winter like the old one did. Thanks
Defrost has to do with the control board outside which will then send a signal to the indoor air handler auxiliary heat. If you didn't change the air handler low voltage wiring then it should be the same, thanks
What does the blue wire go to. I have a Goodman heat pump with heat strips. Has soon as the temp is set one degree higher the indoor temp drop down so that it makes Aux heat come on. Im trying to make sure things are wired right.y contractor left a mess.
my air handler is trane heat pump. I just bought a new thermostat with battery and replaced it instead the old one. It works when it’s on cool mode,but when I turn heat mode on it keep blown fuse. Can you tell me what’s wrong with it. There are 6 wires from air handler blue,red,green,white,orange and yellow. I connected blue-B,red-R,green-G,orange-O,white-W,yellow-Y. Did I mess those thermostat wires?
blue likely is supposed to be on common. You can verify this at the air handler if the blue is connected to the common. B is powered in heat mode and you only have one reversing valve and on a trane they power o in cooling mode, thanks
A)C Service Tech is Correct you put your Common and Hot basically you put both sides of your transformer together on your Low voltage side which is a Direct Short ,take the Blue wire out the equastion.Start with red the green then white etc until you pop the fuse that will probably be the Blue
Hi, HVAC gurus. I'm having a weird challenge that maybe you can help me with. I have two Zones for my furnace, upstairs and downstairs. It's not very cold outside (50ish), but when I turn my heat on upstairs (Zone 2), aux heat turns on after about 5 mins of functioning normally. The heat works perfectly fine downstairs (Zone 1).
Try turning it up only 1 degree and see if aux still comes on. Often aux will come on if the temp is set 2 degrees or more higher or if there is some other setting in the tstat, thanks
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in this video- amzn.to/2av8s3q
Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos-
amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos-
amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
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Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Honeywell non programmable thermostat with heat pump
Out of all the RUclips videos explaining the wiring, specifically the AUX and Emergency heat wires, you explained it the best. I went 6 years with a heat strip that was not working. Although I'm in Sacramento, it still gets cold at night in the winter, and I never understood why the unit started grinding away all night and not producing heat when the outside temp was below 32. Turned out it was just a 40 amp fuse. Replaced it, and man, that's some good winter heat now, that comes on when there's a 3 degreed spread between the setpoint and the inside temp.. Thanks for helping me understand it's operation!
This is my same issue!! Live in sac and if it’s below 40 my heat pump won’t heat the house!!! It was 61 degrees inside the house this morning. I need help
I’m also in Sacramento looking up why I’m not getting best heat when it’s reaching 38 degree outside. I reset breaker, clean out contact terminal and clean sensor connection. The heat works but not as hot and was curious what AUX means, now I get it.
The key thing is I don’t recall reading “ heat strips” in my manual. I understand heat pump and the valve but never came across heat strip til this video.
Is it located in the attic blower? Or outside condenser fan motor ?
@@sarahfowler1601did you figure it out? I bought temp radar gun harbor freight and my heat show 90 degrees out the vent. But I’m going to test it during day and I think should be reading higher
Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Thank you! I had a new heat pump and thermostat "professionally" installed a few weeks back. Came back from being out of town last night to find that the aux heat (heat strip) didn't work. This was the first time it was cold enough to need it. While waiting for the HVAC company to return my call, I cracked open the manuals for the heat pump, air handler, and t-stat. Having zero HVAC experience, it was still a little confusing. By 3:15 in this video, it was clear to me that the white wire was connected for a conventional system vs. heat pump. I was relaxing in a warm house by the time the HVAC company called back.
Awesome to hear thanks!
saved my bacon. thank you. last technician left our aux connected to the reversing wire (at the air handler). so when the heat was needed it was just activating the reversing valve thinking it was the heat strips since, from the thermostats point of view, the heat pump wasn't keeping up. With this I was able to get the strips and the reversing valve straightened out.
we don't use much heat most winters so this went two years undiscovered.
That's amazing!! It's great to hear you found our video was helpful! Thank you for watching!!
I added a new thermostat but I forgot to take a picture of the old one with the wires on it so I was lost. I kept blowing fuses but after watching your video I got it hooked up correctly and now it works, thank you very much.
OK well I thought I had it hooked up right but it wasn't working once the weather got really cold and I had to call a heating and air conditioning company they came up checked it all out and said I had it hooked up wrong. They hooked it up right and now it works good
Great information and explanation. That helps a lot. Thank you very much.
thanks for all that you do for all of us out here in the real world
Glad to help!
I’m in a hvac class and I understand you more
I'm glad these videos help connect the dots!
Your videos are by far the most helpful. Thanks for your time and knowledge!
Thanks EZMoney JR.!
Very good video! I have a trane package heat pump and a touchscreen trane thermostat and I believe the wiring is incorrect because my auxiliary heat will not kick on when the pump falls behind, the only way I can get the temperature back up is turning the emergency heat on. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Switch to smart thermostat (like I did to ecobee) and then go to advanced settings of the ecobee. You can set the thresholds to when heat pump triggers "emergency heat strips"
Nice crickets in the background
Question does it matter if the main W cable goes into the E or Aux first if they are connected by a jumper?
Excellent explanation, thank you. I have RH and RC tied together. Can you explain that? Actually I have the red wire on RH and it's jumpered to RC. White on W
Yellow on Y
Green on G
Black on C
Orange on O
White on W
Love this thing and it is very well made for the price
Gracias por explicar! Thank you for explaining!
Really nice presentation! Learned a lot! Thanks.
Thanks
No problem
good video, love the cricket in background
Yeah isn't that nice, ha ha. I hope it was not too distracting!
refrigeration tech. This whole time i thought there was a cricket outside my window.
Excellent thank..!!
Our pleasure!
Sir, unit without heat strip, thermostat aux and emergency wire is installed can I remove it ? Thank you for all what you do.
Silly question in Florida we use heat pumps versus resistance heating and the heat pump wiring configuration versus conventional. The odd part is my Honeywell has the white wire into aux/E and no other w connections terminated in the existing Honeywell thermostat. However, I am Hooking up to a smart thermostat with a W/E connector I assume that is where I put the white wire as it is really an aux configuration with an Orange o/b setting for the bar? The smart app said my schematic is good and everything seems to work but I don’t want something to happen in the winter when heat turns on lol
In the same boat right now, did you ever figure out the answer to your question here?
Thank you, helpful
So the majority of Heat pumps use the O terminal on @ the thermostat with the reversing valve being energized in the cooling mode keeping the refrigerant flowing normal direction correct?
Hi ACSERVICETECH! Great video, I drew a diagram and labeled it just like you explained. Excellent work. Thank you!
Awesome, I will have a troubleshooting video on this stat coming up. Thanks for letting me know!
Great job on all your videos. Very informing..
Thank you Michael!
So quick question, in most HP applications the stat controls the fan not the equipment? (ie if you were to jump Y and R you would get heat pump but no fan) unlike a gas furnace setup where if you jump R and W1 you get heat and fan?
I have a heat pump with 95% efficient gas furnace, (not my design) I do not want the heat pump to run EVER. I was going to install a nest stat but without using the orange O wire like it was not a heat pump. Now that I saw this video I think that will stop the A/C from working. I would have to install the nest as "duel fuel" which requires pro set up only. I do not want to spend $150+ because I do not have the pro access code. Looks like I am forgetting about even having a smart stat. You saved me some grief if I'm interpreting this right.
I replaced a honeywell thermostat, and older one with a newer one of the same model. The old one had a jumper between E and AUX but the new one didn't, does the new one need the jumper too?
Tempstar powers in heat mode. Caught me by surprise. &&
Great video. Is there a way to have the heat strip turn on when the unit goes into defrost mode so it doesn’t blow cold air into the ductwork? Or have heat strip turn on continuously when thermostat is calling for heat and recirculating fan is running.?
The heat pump has a 24v output W wire that is supposed to go to the heat strips to turn them on during defrost. It isn't done via the thermostat but from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit, thanks
I live in a basement i kept telling the landlord its blowing cold air and at times its smell like fumes coming out of the vent..dont know why but we kept having heated arguments over this same problems. Do u know why that happens
Mine is set up this exact same way except the black wire is in W1 with the connector piece to W2 and the white and brown wire aren’t in use. Why would the black wire be used in W1 and W2 instead of the white wire.
If I’m changing out my thermostat to a nest, would I leave the black wire as W1 in the nest system and remove the connector then still leave white and brown wires in used?
Thanks so much!
Where do you check low voltage at the air handler or package unit without a common from the thermostat? Do you just use a common some where in the unit? Say I'm trying to see if the O terminal is energized without a common from thermostat on a package unit for example. Appreciate all your videos and knowledge!
You would measure it with the common at the indoor unit air handler, thanks
Thank you for your video. Question about C wire: Without batteries, how could I see the digit numbers on the thermostat?
Hopefully by now (a year later), you have found your answer, elsewhere; however, in the case that you haven't or for anyone reading and asking themselves the same question.. here's your answer and then some. The thermostat, itself, receives power from the RED (R) wire (24VAC) and the power flows out via the BLUE or Common (C) wire. So, essentially with those 2 hooked up, there is no "need" for batteries. I say that; however, if you have a thermostat that has specific programming/settings/schedules/temperatures set, etc. by all means, keep the batteries in there as a backup source of power. The batteries' purpose is for the simple convenience of retaining all of those settings, within the thermostat, in case the power goes out or you need to flip the main breaker in your house, for some examples. **(Think: alarm clocks. Remember when people used those, instead of their phones or their favorite home assistant to wake up? Oftentimes, most people would keep a battery installed in the alarm clock, in addition to having it plugged into a wall outlet, in order to keep the time and alarm(s) saved, in case of an unexpected power outage.)**
Further, regarding the particular model featured in the video, a Honeywell Pro 3210, perhaps, it's a simple and basic thermostat that is pretty straight forward and has standard modes 'n' settings. If you have one of these, as I do, you already know. The most advanced you'll get on that model, is programming your thermostat to match your system type, setting the cycles per hour (CPH) of the Emergency (E) and Auxilary (Aux) Heat, the Compressor startup wait time (default: 5 mins, though 3 mins is satisfactory) and if you want your temp to read in Fahrenheit or Celsius (fun for a quick laugh, as I did this once and watched as my wife looked at me, puzzled, as the thermostat read "23" (Celsius) in the summertime). If you're still reading, there are also some basic system tests you don't have to be an HVAC tech to run through, if you're also a DIY'er and like to run through your own system maintenance checks in between annual tech visits.
I hope this helps somebody out there. I'm not an HVAC technician. Just a guy, with a mind and a passion for mechanics and anything that has moving parts. God Bless!
Can you change the 3 degree differential to 5 as I like to sleep cooler but in the morning I would need to burn resistance heating to gain back the temperature while I want to used the heat pump.
Another great video... Thanks for all your videos!
Thank you very much!
Another awesome video!
Thank you!
What's your thoughts on Rheem and Ruud. Specifically in southern California if you don't have access to natural gas? I figured it would be better since doesn't get very cold and reversing valve this power heating and cooling . I would love to hear opinion.
Yeah if Rheem or Ruud heat pump reversing valve goes bad it typically still works in cooling mode non powered. Yeah it depends on your exact year round climate for deciding between gas heat or heat pumps, thanks!
Great video was very helpful saved me a lot of trouble! thanks
Thanks Mo!
thank you, you really explained the wiring great so we were able to see what was wrong with ours, the E and Y were reversed so we switched them and now it works great!! your the best repair person on the internet lol
Glad to help Mo!
My thermostat has a wire going into the B terminal but I do not have a Ruud or Rheem hvac unit. I have a Oxbox Heat Pump system. Is this normal? There is no wire going into terminal O on my thermostat as well.
Great video thank you! Getting ready to install a new heat pump thermostat for my mom. She has Heat, Cool, and Emer Heat (heat strips in the air handler). So my question is, should the outdoor unit run when Emer Heat is selected or are they mutually exclusive? Again thanks so much!
3 months late to your question. HVAC tech here. In heat pump application both indoor and outdoor units run in COOL, and HEAT mode only. When in EM or AUX mode only the indoor unit will run, unless it is too cold in the home, typically 3° then the unit will turn on both heat pump AND aux heat. Think of it like a fan flowing across a toaster oven. That’s how the EM heat produces hot air, at the cost of electricity. When possible, run heat mode but if this mode breaks run EM heat. Also to note getting an annual or bi annual system check by a professional company to check these modes and the operation to keep you up to date and maintain the system 👍🏼
I'm switching out an amana t-stat for the pro 3000, maybe a dumb question but my amana has a separate black/brown wire for e heat, do I need to still jump e and aux. I haven't done this in a couple decades and I'm old. I think I don't need a jumper but please confirm for me. Thanks from an old const. superintendent.
great video.... as always
Thank you very much!
Brilliant.
Denis Lau(Mauritius).
A video on how to read and troubleshoot using the electrical wiring diagram of a refrigeration and AC unit.
Ok, yeah that is a good idea. Please give me a bit. Thanks!
Question, I have everything wired correctly, and can confirm the unit is a heat pump due to the reversing valve in the condenser unit, and the wires coming to the thermostat, however, when the thermostat is configured for a forced air heat pump, the blower does not come on when called for cooling, which is not good. Only when the unit is set for Conv. Forced Air the blower turns on with the compressor. Both heating and cooling work, but I have no control over when the expensive AUX heat strips turn on, and would like to set it to only turn on when the heat droop is about 5 degree. The thermostat is a Honeywell TH8321WF1001. Thanks again!
You would need the s1 and s2 hooked up to an outdoor temp sensor to control aux strips like that. It sounds like the tstat is not sending power to the g wire for fan. Do you have 24v from g to c at the indoor unit when calling for cooling?
Thanks for your quick response! Well, the T-stat has internet connection and can pull outside temperature from the internet to control strips, (if I can figure out what's going on). I'm just puzzled as to why the blower does not run when configured for heat pump mode for cooling, but runs fine in Conventional forced air since G is being energized. Something is either not configured right or wired right at the inside unit?
Yeah sounds right, turn the power off at the indoor unit and check to make sure your g tstat wire connects to g terminal on the board at the indoor unit, thanks
On a t-6 z-wave Honeywell stat. There's no aux. I usually put in E. Do I need to add a jumper to W2?
So, if I wanted to disable the heat function, but leave the cooling. What where would I cut or mess with to disable that?
Question, can I remove the aux and emergency wire, don't have heat trip on my heat pump but aux wire is connected.
great video! very informative and easy to understand.Thanks!
Can you do a video on Hot Surface Ignitors and troubleshooting a Smart Valve?
I will be doing hot surface ignitors very soon and smart valves possibly a litttle later. Thanks!
Can a landlord put anything inside the pump they have upstairs. Or set the heater on a timer to go lower and higher
I have one of black color in aux, and the other white on E, can I connect together in the WE., in a new thermostat?
thanks for all your videos,I have learned a lot from you.I have a request if is possible to do a video on programing 5000 and over Honeywell termosthats, I installed a heat pump a few days ago and it gave a headache.Thanks again Ruben
Ruben, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
programable termosthats, which numbers are for compressors delay, degrees Fahrenheit and celcius,heat and cooling,limit tempeture in heat and cooling.
thanks again.
I have a whirlpool pump. I have the blue common, orange O, green, red, yellow Y. now my question is I have a white that goes to W2. I was told to connect this to the "E" port on a new Honeywell thermostat not the W2 port. Do you think that's correct?
Thankyou, you made it very understandable! Do you always put a jumper between the aux and emergency terminals? I have a 2004 2 1/2 ton Lennox heat pump. I read somewhere about an emergency heat relay.
Only if you want the heat strips to turn on automatically when the heat pump cant keep up, thanks
I just bought a new Honeywell RTH 9585 thermostat to use with my Trane heat pump which is all electric. it also has Aux heat and Emergency heat on the original Trane thermostat. Why do Honeywell thermostats not have an individual W connector? Which has the white wire hooked to it on the original thermostat? My new Honeywell has a combination O or W connector and I contacted Honeywell and they said to put the O=Orange wire to that terminal and put the both the White and the Black wires to the single Aux/E connector.
I have the same issue did you have any issue after putting them together?
@@TyWerks No, it's been working fine for over a year now.
I was trying to upgrade a heat pump thermostat today for a customer and I had everything wired the same way as usual. Once I started the system in cooling the heat pump started running in heat mode. After trying multiple things nothing would change. I then installed the old thermostat and the system went back into cooling mode once again. Any ideas of why this would happen? Any input on this would be helpful.
@ 2:59 you say that "AUX is for if the thermostat ends up getting 3 degrees higher than what it's calling for", I think you mean to say it is for when the thermostat is set for 3 degrees higher than the current temperature setting, yes?
I have a straight air condenser and a heat pump air handle they are both rheem ruud, the thermostat is honeywel. Id like to run my heat strips on heat instead of emergency heat. How can I do that? Switch some wires around?
Well explained. Thanks for sharing! 👍👍
Thank you very much, always nice to hear from you!
Im stumped. Trying to install a smart tstat that requires a C wire. Ive got 29V from R to Y, G, O at my tstat. My R to C has 29v at the heat pump unit. I ran a blue wire from the C terminal at the heat pump unit down to the tstat. The other end of the same blue wire that reads 29v at the heat pump only reads 16 to 17v at the tstat end of the wire. WTF? What would cause the wire to lose 10 Volts? Its no longer than 7 feet of length (at least that's the physical distance from the tstat to the bryant heat pump unit on the roof. The connection to the C term is solid. There is continuity. Somehow, as that blue wire is snaking through the drywall down to the tstat it is losing 10 volts. I can't explain that. I tried a different wire, and same result. 17 volts. Makes no sense.
Thank you for the video. I have an older York heat pump and York furnace. After installing my new honeywell tstat the system cycles on and off very frequently. It really annoying. This shows the thermostat wiring, but where should these wire land at the heat pump and furnace. I think whoever wires those did it wrong. How do you wire the "system" from to tstat to heat pump, to furnace?
The retail (RTHXXXX) Honeywell thermostats generally don't offer any kind of temperature hysteresis/swing/cycle per hour adjustment setting, the cycle rate is fixed at 1*F I generally find that's pretty reasonable but prefer a wider swing at the expense of "comfort" in favor of economy, as you describe. Reduced cycling is also easier on the equipment due to reduced startup cycles and slightly longer run times.
The FocusPro (THXXXX) versions do have a cycle per hour adjustment feature which offers some degree of control. These are the pro contractor versions, not the retail versions. These pro versions also offer some adjustability for when aux strip heat is energized (econ/comfort).
I'm not sure if this also applies to the higher end Honeywell retail thermostats but it might.
I received a Powerly Thermostat and wireless controller from AEP of OHio and am wondering about the thermostat wiring for my all electric house with a heat pump and auxillary furnace.Most wires are clear to me as they are plain to view and correlate to all thermostats I have ever installed. My problem is there is eight wires of which seven were connected to the old thermostat via a simple color coded hookup. On the Powerly thermostat there is no color code. THere is only designation of lettering. O,B, W1,W@ RH,RC, C, Y1 or Y, Y2, and G. The housing shows one(left) hookup of W1 and W2 on one side and O/B and AUX on other side of left. W is O/B and AUX is W2. On the right if RH/RC, C, Y, Y2, and G. Like I said, I have eight wires of which seven were on the old digital thermostat. I've got 6 hooked up and the last one is blue on the old thermostat so where does it go on the new wireless on by Powerly? Any ideas?
Do I need a Jumper from E to Aux using a Braeburn 5220 T-Stat? I can't find the book, and online don't say.
Great info. Thanks
Thanks Keith!
That yellow thing to the right, is that a Dimethoxyethane DMM? You mention wires touching... wouldn't a volt meter be a great way of showing relays and solenoids energizing?
Here is the video with that setup while using the multimeter. I just happened to split one long video up into two smaller chunks. Sorry I didn't use it in that one, thanks Jules- ruclips.net/video/HenOWUDX8PQ/видео.html
👍 Great video.
video request on the honeywell redlink thermostats.
I will see what I can do. Thanks for the video idea!
Can you do a video on wiring variable speed air handler to a single stage condenser. Using a 2 cool thermostat? Please
Anthony, thanks for letting me know what you would like to see! Anthony, you would just jumper 1st and 2nd speed in the thermostat together and run one wire out for cooling to the air handler and single speed ac unit, thanks
How does the blower motor change speed. Is it 2 or 3 different speeds ? I know its control board has G,O,Y connected to it.
I have a 4000 series honeywell thermostat with the same exact wire connection configuration that you show in this video. I am replacing a trane thermostat that quit working. Question I have is that I have a white wire and an X2 wire. From what I have been able to find out looking around online is to connect white wire to AUX and tape off the X2 wire. Is that correct?
It depends on what type of system you have and what type of heat and auxiliary heat it has. What does it have?
Can you make video wiring booster fan to furnace blower or from thermostat wiring
Hey Trevis, we usually don't install a booster fan but we redo the ductwork to distribute the airflow better, thanks
So if you were wiring a RUUD/RHEEM would you connect the orange wire to “B”?
Yes.
Very helpful, thanks a lot!!
Glad to Help!
I have an older Goodman GPG13240701 heat pump paired with a braeburn 1200 thermostat. My heat pump won't stay on. I took the thermostat off to see the wire hookup, there are only 4 wires, Red (R), Green (G), Black (E/W1), and Yellow (Y1). Outside the thermostat wire into the heat pump circuit board does not have a black wire. It has Red, Yellow, Orange, White, Green, and Blue (not connected). Is the thermostat wired incorrectly?
Why do you need a jumper wire for emergency and auxiliary heat? Or are jumper wires required for dumb thermostats?
We've got a Rheem Dual Fuel system with an outdoor sensor and I'm trying to switch to a newer (TH8321WF1001) thermostat. The previous one has S1 and S2 connections, but the new one has two S1 connections? Is that a problem or should I just connect the two previous wires to the two S1 terminals? Thanks and great video!
The S1 and S1 are for indoor or outdoor sensors so yeah you can connect there and then enter programming to let it know that these are for the outdoor sensor, thanks!
question: can you just jump the red wire and give power to the C
Do you know how to turn off AUX power on Braeburn thermostat
Bosch also uses “B” for power during heat mode.
So does Mr. Cool universal series.
Great job thanks for sharing, will you do one on wiring a heat pump at the air handler and outside unite.
I may do something like that in the future, thanks!
What happens if you miswire O for B? Can that cause squealing?
very practical thank you ...
Glad to Help!
So on my old thermostat white wire is going to terminal that says W1/O/B but on my new thermostat that’s not there instead one says O/B and another Terminal says W/E my question is where does the white wire go
Hey thanks for the video! Question. I know that the E wire will go into the Y2 slot. But if I have a O and a B wire, where will they go? Will the O go into the O/B slot, and leave the B wire out?
I have white wire on aux ter/ and black wire un E ter/ .,can connect the two in the letter w / E new thermostat?
What thermostat did you use during this video.
here is a link to it, amzn.to/2GTJyR1
thanks
Going from this exact thermostat to a Honeywell smart thermostat. Anyone know how I would wire the new 1? New to this and kinda confused.
I don't expect you to reply, but if I shot a fast 1 minute video of my thermostat - do you think you could help me ? .... I just turned my heat on today, and the stupid thermostat thinks I have a heat pump, so the heat coming from the furnace is not very warm. I heard my air conditioner actually go on when I put it into heat mode... so I turned it all off and went outside and unplugged the fuse beside my central air conditioner air unit outside ) ... then came back in turned it back on ( the furnace ) and it said heat on with heat pump..... anyway, the air conditioning guy was here about 3 months ago and didn't change any wiring, but did do something to the thermostat - he changed a code on it, on the digital display which made this error start happening. Thank you.
I would pull the fact of the thermostat off to find the model number, look up the model in google and also type manual or installation instructions and you will find how to get into your settings for that particular thermostat. Then just set it to furnace instead of heat pump, thanks
Hi there, THANK YOU. Wow. I did you what you said, and RUclips'd it and after a few minutes of looking I found a video on the *exact* model I have ( White-Rodgers model ) . It goes through all the process. Thank goodness for these videos. Thank you for your help ! I have the thing back in "heat" only mode. ✅✅✅ I don't wish to pull people way from your channel, so won't put any direct link to the video I watched, but am very glad I found your channel, and am happy you were around to offer assistance.
You didnt say one thing about why the jumper white from aux to E
A.C, could you do a video for for a Honey Well 6000 for heat pump mode ?
I am typically using 5000 and 8000 version but it is possible if I run into one, thanks
Hi AC Service tech: How does the thermostat control the fan speed theough the green wire? Does it change the voltage level or does it use a pulse width modulation (duty cycle) to achieve this?
G will only power one speed but if the board also recieves a signal on the y then it will move to the higher speed. A modulating air handler or furnace will control the variable air speed via the control board, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thank you!
thanks!
Glad to help!
I need the help of all your experts, every time I take the temperature up and down due to the change of the weather, and then my heating unit is not working. What I want to know is the air handler or heat pump compressor problem. The technician can only work is replacing the "fuse". But one month later, it happened again and again. Technicians only change the fuses again and again. Any help would be appreciated.
If they are changing the low voltage fuse over and over but it is intermittent and don't know the cause, just take one thing out of play at a time. Replace the tstat wire going to the thermostat. See if it happens again. Then replace the outdoor tstat wire, wait, replace the tstat, wait so on and so forth. Unfortunately intermittent problems are rough and we can only fix it if we can see the problem. The rule is though, don't just do the same thing over and over. Try something, thanks
I have a loosely related question. I have a bonus room over my garage that has its own zone of hydro heating and cooling on an air-handler in the attic. Works great. This bonus room also has hot-water baseboard as a supplemental heat source. Currently, there are 2 thermostats in the room, one for the air-handler, and one that goes to a Taco switching relay in the basement to trigger the furnace and circulator for the baseboard heat (only baseboard in the whole house, rest is all hydro-air). So my question is, can I change to one thermostat in that bonus room? So when I set the thermostat to call for heat it calls to the air-handler and the baseboard?
Yes if you separate the voltage of the two systems with a 12amp fan relay. So the heat signal would power the fan relay and then the power wire for the other system would get connected to the switch in the relay and then go back to the system as a call for heat, thanks
So YOG for cooling , YG for heating right
I seen a thermostat have a y/w jumped together why would that be
RH and RC are sometimes jumpered, but in your case i bet they just used different colors. I have no clue why anyone would jump Y & W.. Im curious to know this answer also
I have carrier heatpump model 50VT-48---30TP. The thermostat was honeywell TH522OD1029 with 6 wires hooked up to it.The wires were R=red Y=yellow C=white O/B=orange G=green AUX=blue AUX+E = Orange wire jumper. The R and RC jumpered also the E and AUX jumpered. I installed a ecobee 4 smart thermostat it would not allow E and AUX to jumped. I put my aux wire on the w1 on my ecobee4 . My question is will the new thermostat go into defrost mode in the winter like the old one did. Thanks
Defrost has to do with the control board outside which will then send a signal to the indoor air handler auxiliary heat. If you didn't change the air handler low voltage wiring then it should be the same, thanks
Thank you this makes me feel much better and love the vids.
What does the blue wire go to. I have a Goodman heat pump with heat strips. Has soon as the temp is set one degree higher the indoor temp drop down so that it makes Aux heat come on. Im trying to make sure things are wired right.y contractor left a mess.
It sounds like the heat pump is not coming on or is not working properly and electric resistance is all that is heating, thanks!
my air handler is trane heat pump. I just bought a new thermostat with battery and replaced it instead the old one. It works when it’s on cool mode,but when I turn heat mode on it keep blown fuse. Can you tell me what’s wrong with it. There are 6 wires from air handler blue,red,green,white,orange and yellow. I connected blue-B,red-R,green-G,orange-O,white-W,yellow-Y. Did I mess those thermostat wires?
blue likely is supposed to be on common. You can verify this at the air handler if the blue is connected to the common. B is powered in heat mode and you only have one reversing valve and on a trane they power o in cooling mode, thanks
A)C Service Tech is Correct you put your Common and Hot basically you put both sides of your transformer together on your Low voltage side which is a Direct Short ,take the Blue wire out the equastion.Start with red the green then white etc until you pop the fuse that will probably be the Blue
Hi, HVAC gurus. I'm having a weird challenge that maybe you can help me with. I have two Zones for my furnace, upstairs and downstairs. It's not very cold outside (50ish), but when I turn my heat on upstairs (Zone 2), aux heat turns on after about 5 mins of functioning normally. The heat works perfectly fine downstairs (Zone 1).
Try turning it up only 1 degree and see if aux still comes on. Often aux will come on if the temp is set 2 degrees or more higher or if there is some other setting in the tstat, thanks