Still waiting on that start to finish video if it's still in your plans. If you do make it, please be as detailed as possible, I'm trying to learn this stuff myself. Any insights you can include would be most helpful.
I personally don't have the money to buy top dollar Japanese weapons, but have started my collection with a cheap yari spearhead (~$150). It is completely rusted over, except what appears to be light rust removal, from the nakago by the seller, presumably checking if it was signed. I read from some that it is best to remove active rust while others state not to touch it whatsoever, unless you're a professional polisher. I'm sure such an inexpensive yari isn't worth professionally polishing, but also don't want it to continue to rust. Any suggestions for just removing active rust or getting it to a safe situation without causing damage? Being in the low end market, I was curious, do you do with the blades that aren't worth polishing and damaged fittings? I don't see any for sale on your website.
If it were mine I would remove active rust. The main thing is do not use power means to remove active rust due to the heat build up with using a machine method which will cause possible destruction to tempering or hamon. Use the least coarse stone to remove the rust as I am a minimalist in steel removal on ancient blades. I hope that helps.. oh and then oil to keep new rust from forming on the newly exposed steel.
I will try to do a video soon. I have been busy on 30+ blades doing foundation polish. Sorry I have not been doing videos as I get drawn in by the stones to polish, then tsuka and habaki, and saya making.. I will get out some koppa and do a complete video on from separating the layers, to dressing them down, to backing, then using. Thank you for the interest and wanting to learn.
Yes, I wet the board and wet the stone, then I apply the Gorilla glue. Then I put a clamp on (Lightly) so the stone will not move and allow to dry. Some stones have been attached to the boards for over 10 years and never let go. GOOD STUFF!!!
There are different hardness in the stones especially in jizuya. I have about 7 different grades and it is trial and error in choosing the right hardness for the steel in question. I buy my koppa from namikawa in Japan and ask for different grades or hardnesses, from a golden orange to a tan green color. They will know what you are wanting. I got tired of buying it pre made and getting stones that did not work well with the steel I wanted to bring out the hada.. Making your own is the best way to get diversity in your arsenal of stones as all blades are not created equal.. I hope that helps.
Still waiting for the start to finish video like everyone else
I'm a good friend of Mike.
Anything about migaki and how to use them would be much appreciated.
Still waiting on that start to finish video if it's still in your plans. If you do make it, please be as detailed as possible, I'm trying to learn this stuff myself. Any insights you can include would be most helpful.
I personally don't have the money to buy top dollar Japanese weapons, but have started my collection with a cheap yari spearhead (~$150). It is completely rusted over, except what appears to be light rust removal, from the nakago by the seller, presumably checking if it was signed. I read from some that it is best to remove active rust while others state not to touch it whatsoever, unless you're a professional polisher. I'm sure such an inexpensive yari isn't worth professionally polishing, but also don't want it to continue to rust. Any suggestions for just removing active rust or getting it to a safe situation without causing damage?
Being in the low end market, I was curious, do you do with the blades that aren't worth polishing and damaged fittings? I don't see any for sale on your website.
If it were mine I would remove active rust. The main thing is do not use power means to remove active rust due to the heat build up with using a machine method which will cause possible destruction to tempering or hamon. Use the least coarse stone to remove the rust as I am a minimalist in steel removal on ancient blades. I hope that helps.. oh and then oil to keep new rust from forming on the newly exposed steel.
@@mastercutgems Thanks! I'll try it.
Have you ever used the electrolysis method with baking or washing soda to remove rust from a blade?
Cant be done with swords like that,you could easily ruin the blade,just a few hours longer than intended and you ruin the blade
Saya ingin punya batu Hazuya & brp harganya.
Can you show your finger stone technique?
I will try to do a video soon. I have been busy on 30+ blades doing foundation polish. Sorry I have not been doing videos as I get drawn in by the stones to polish, then tsuka and habaki, and saya making.. I will get out some koppa and do a complete video on from separating the layers, to dressing them down, to backing, then using. Thank you for the interest and wanting to learn.
Gorilla glue holding the stones?
Yes, I wet the board and wet the stone, then I apply the Gorilla glue. Then I put a clamp on (Lightly) so the stone will not move and allow to dry.
Some stones have been attached to the boards for over 10 years and never let go. GOOD STUFF!!!
Do you soak the stones for a long time (including the dressing/nagura stones) or just give them a 5 minute or so soak before using?
@@mastercutgems
I have sword and restored some sword y buy but i not have finger stone Jizuya and Hazuya do you sell .....
There are different hardness in the stones especially in jizuya. I have about 7 different grades and it is trial and error in choosing the right hardness for the steel in question. I buy my koppa from namikawa in Japan and ask for different grades or hardnesses, from a golden orange to a tan green color. They will know what you are wanting. I got tired of buying it pre made and getting stones that did not work well with the steel I wanted to bring out the hada.. Making your own is the best way to get diversity in your arsenal of stones as all blades are not created equal.. I hope that helps.