. True. Also there is voltage regulation from the power supply so it's possible it might take more than one might think to really do much damage although your mileage may vary but that's one reason potentially why that didn't happen so many different factors depending on the circuitry and so on would have to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis although it would be interesting to try to fry some stuff of different designs to see what would happen honestly that might make a good video. By the way there are videos here on RUclips of people playing much higher than red voltage to toys this is pretty hilarious and also interesting smaller scale for voltages at currents but still just as much fun and hilarity and just interesting to say the least. Usually it's the sound that goes first then usually LED circuitry and the motor keeps going sometimes even up to 30 volts which is pretty impressive for something designed for a few DC volts. I did torture a low voltage motor once to destruction. Can't remember if it was raining for 3or 6 volts. DC Connected around 10 or so 9-volt batteries but still very close to 9o. Give or take volts. Boy oh boy did the Sparks Fly. Big nose plastic commutators it was one of those flat pack Motors kind of like used in the old disc cameras and this murder was shot what's the bearings the only reason I decided to attempt to put it out of its misery. Otherwise it would have been salvaged in using something else. My father thought I was building an air raid siren he was just joking about that of course in actuality it was actually louder than a Dremel tool at full speed and yes earplugs in. I'm sort of sure part of that was due to the bad bearings?? Oh by the way another one of those little experiments add unexpected results a motor out of a toy flying airplane Define much over voltage contact liftoff not in the way expected of the whole motor just to propel her only hit the deck incoming Lord of life really tacky friends that was watching this I don't know how many times I think that's on Facebook before it stopped. Don't worry safety gear in the in use not a problem. Also certain types of LEDs if you play say anywhere from 9 to 12 volts Raw as in no current limiting especially little suckers like the 3 mm or so it's just particular times but it didn't have enough of them to really test all the combinations. But those suckers what often blow the end of LED I have gotten a bunch of these LEDs in a black plastic housing supposably had a built-in resistor and I was wondering why the LEDs were going out instantly Charlie Chaplin Insurance Bang. Turns out confuse them with another type of the similar-looking LED that was almost no different from the outside that would be an epic fail Oh by the way I had gotten some Led flight posts for baller railroads at a hobby store. And initially the labeling on the package was different said it's rated for using 9 volts ac plus which of course that is not a LED component voltage and of course no resistance whatsoever anywhere. And of course apply power now she goes. When I realized that that wait a second these are directly connected after we will disassembly. Turns out this man been intended for one of those systems that allows you to run life like this Plug & Play sort of thing that uses a specialized type of LED power supply specifically for this. However I was reading these LEDs anyways basically cutting the fixture other projects. Until I was able to find reliable source of the raw LEDs this was a good choice initially until I got things all settled in on how to do things.
This is also a good theaching video showing what could happen if your not careful with voltage on appliances and the consequences of not doing so such as potential fire hazard
Add a 2uF 1000v AC-rated Cap on the output, then add a "High frequency Arc Starter" (separate box from a welding machine) on the output. this means that even if the product being blown blows open circuit, the arc starter keeps initiating an internal arc until nothing is left of it! imagine the toaster oven keeps popping until literally, no heating element is left!
Что у вас за тостеры такие интересные что при 230в жрут !!! 12Квт!!! Я слышал конечно что в Америке или в США, точно не помню, стандарт 120в но и 5-6Квт это тоже перебор. Или вы их подключили как-то не правильно?
I believe the toaster ovens were Magic Chef brands. Rated 1.5kW 120V. Here in America, 120/240v, 200A is commonly installed, older services can be as low as 60A. Here, I used a large variable transformer and a voltage doubling transformer to obtain a voltage range of 0-500V. It was around 400V that both ovens peaked at & went into meltdown. I was surprised to see them take that much lol!!
Electricity is so fun to mess around with lol I used an Induction Cooker to drive an ancient AC Flyback and I can get 30kv out of it with Extremely Hot Arcs (it can vaporize copper and give the arc a green tint) so it’s pretty neat
Variac Maniac should get a job working for UL Underwriter's Laboratories.
As photonicinduction would say: I popped it!
I miss that guy
Cringe
@@JonathanCF0why he stopped posting vids
aw, I have an Oster a lot like that, great little oven
i'm surprised the electronics in it didn't complain about the overvoltage
Yea, I've got one now and it does miracles! It was all in good fun though.
@@VariacManiac The digital electronics are all low voltage, about 5v.
. True. Also there is voltage regulation from the power supply so it's possible it might take more than one might think to really do much damage although your mileage may vary but that's one reason potentially why that didn't happen so many different factors depending on the circuitry and so on would have to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis although it would be interesting to try to fry some stuff of different designs to see what would happen honestly that might make a good video.
By the way there are videos here on RUclips of people playing much higher than red voltage to toys this is pretty hilarious and also interesting smaller scale for voltages at currents but still just as much fun and hilarity and just interesting to say the least.
Usually it's the sound that goes first then usually LED circuitry and the motor keeps going sometimes even up to 30 volts which is pretty impressive for something designed for a few DC volts.
I did torture a low voltage motor once to destruction.
Can't remember if it was raining for 3or 6 volts. DC
Connected around 10 or so 9-volt batteries but still very close to 9o. Give or take volts.
Boy oh boy did the Sparks Fly.
Big nose plastic commutators it was one of those flat pack Motors kind of like used in the old disc cameras and this murder was shot what's the bearings the only reason I decided to attempt to put it out of its misery.
Otherwise it would have been salvaged in using something else.
My father thought I was building an air raid siren he was just joking about that of course in actuality it was actually louder than a Dremel tool at full speed and yes earplugs in.
I'm sort of sure part of that was due to the bad bearings??
Oh by the way another one of those little experiments add unexpected results a motor out of a toy flying airplane Define much over voltage contact liftoff not in the way expected of the whole motor just to propel her only hit the deck incoming
Lord of life really tacky friends that was watching this I don't know how many times I think that's on Facebook before it stopped.
Don't worry safety gear in the in use not a problem.
Also certain types of LEDs if you play say anywhere from 9 to 12 volts Raw as in no current limiting especially little suckers like the 3 mm or so it's just particular times but it didn't have enough of them to really test all the combinations.
But those suckers what often blow the end of LED I have gotten a bunch of these LEDs in a black plastic housing supposably had a built-in resistor and I was wondering why the LEDs were going out instantly Charlie Chaplin Insurance Bang.
Turns out confuse them with another type of the similar-looking LED that was almost no different from the outside that would be an epic fail
Oh by the way I had gotten some Led flight posts for baller railroads at a hobby store.
And initially the labeling on the package was different said it's rated for using 9 volts ac plus which of course that is not a LED component voltage and of course no resistance whatsoever anywhere.
And of course apply power now she goes.
When I realized that that wait a second these are directly connected after we will disassembly.
Turns out this man been intended for one of those systems that allows you to run life like this Plug & Play sort of thing that uses a specialized type of LED power supply specifically for this.
However I was reading these LEDs anyways basically cutting the fixture other projects.
Until I was able to find reliable source of the raw LEDs this was a good choice initially until I got things all settled in on how to do things.
This is also a good theaching video showing what could happen if your not careful with voltage on appliances and the consequences of not doing so such as potential fire hazard
You're the American version of Photonicinduction. I like it.
Add a 2uF 1000v AC-rated Cap on the output, then add a "High frequency Arc Starter" (separate box from a welding machine) on the output. this means that even if the product being blown blows open circuit, the arc starter keeps initiating an internal arc until nothing is left of it! imagine the toaster oven keeps popping until literally, no heating element is left!
I’m watching this at night and that flash almost killed me💀😂
Scarier in person.
This channel is basically alternate Photonicinduction.
Keep up the good work! I love your content
Thank you! More vids to come shortly 🤙
don't let him cook again
The reason the timer didn’t blow. It’s not electronic, but mechanical. AC FREE!
If it was electric it would go faster
Brilliant !
Next time leave them on triple the power to let everthing glow and melt. :D
Photonicinduction would be proud.
Those two Power Meters on your 18kW power supply, where did you get them from? I am looking for some too for my 5kW power supply.
I got them on eBay for around $140, they're made by ColdFusion.
They look a lot like the ones used on Photonicinduction's big power supply!
Just letting you know Variac Maniac I just posted another update to my build and I think you may like it, -Control And Power
For a moment I thought I was watching a photonicindiction video
Your power meter looks suspiciously like photonicindiction's
3:21 the last thing the heater sees
Что у вас за тостеры такие интересные что при 230в жрут !!! 12Квт!!! Я слышал конечно что в Америке или в США, точно не помню, стандарт 120в но и 5-6Квт это тоже перебор. Или вы их подключили как-то не правильно?
I believe the toaster ovens were Magic Chef brands. Rated 1.5kW 120V. Here in America, 120/240v, 200A is commonly installed, older services can be as low as 60A. Here, I used a large variable transformer and a voltage doubling transformer to obtain a voltage range of 0-500V. It was around 400V that both ovens peaked at & went into meltdown. I was surprised to see them take that much lol!!
You popped it lol
Old clips, hope ya enjoyed man!
Electricity is so fun to mess around with lol I used an Induction Cooker to drive an ancient AC Flyback and I can get 30kv out of it with Extremely Hot Arcs (it can vaporize copper and give the arc a green tint) so it’s pretty neat
Come to think of it, my friend actually popped it.
Super duper nice
My microwave was a lot filther then that and use I cleaned it very well and use it
@@josh6715 Sounds like it should've been cranked up on the ol Porta - Watty.
Nice 👍
Not cooked A toaster
I have a europro oven like this one and it's a great little oven, lol Ike first one in the vid
Sort of feel bad for not restoring them, but most are cheap anyway. I have one now and it does miracles.
ok
Овёс
Bro is copying electroboom ☠💀
You are new to this type of content lol