Symptoms Of An IDM Failure In A 7.3 Powerstroke Engine

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  • Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 35

  • @XGSLAYERX
    @XGSLAYERX Год назад +9

    I had an IDM go bad on me one time. I figured it out through trial and error, replacing various sensors etc. one day I went to start my truck and it wouldn’t start, even using either it struggled to run. Then it finally started but only one bank was firing and I could only go 25mph. After I shut it off it wouldn’t start again. I ended up replacing it as a last resort, since it’s so expensive I waited to buy one. It finally started and ran fine ever since. NOTE: if you replace on on your own, you have to match the serial number from your idm to one you are going to replace it with. Not every idm is designed the same.

    • @007.3l
      @007.3l Год назад +7

      I'm a ford diesel tech by trade
      All idms are interchangeable between all model years of 7.3 diesel. Only difference is the output voltage. Early models are 90v newest are 120v
      The 120v models run the best and if you get a reman unit from the ford dealer it will be a 120v unit

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge about this issue

    • @salvatorecabano5482
      @salvatorecabano5482 3 месяца назад

      @@XGSLAYERX it ended up being a push rod. Replaced it for 8 dollars

  • @John-n6g
    @John-n6g 23 дня назад

    Replaced the camshaft position sensor. Didn't work. Got the P1316 code and got an idm. Still running unworthy of being on the road. Did the icp and ipr , still the same problem. There is a spring
    That is in a housing on the top of the fuel bowl on the driver's side. A metal fuel line comes out of that housing. When a certain amount of pressure is in the fuel bowl the relief valve spring allows the excess fuel to return to the
    tank . That spring is supposed to hold back the fuel in the bowl so the fuel, at the proper pressure, in then sent to feed the process that delivers all the fuel to the injectors. Not to high or low of a pressure. When i took the spring out it looked like a spring and I just made sure everything looked clean. I put it back and did not learn that i did it wrong until i took it off again. I bent the spring because i just pushed the housing down to put one of the screws all the way in and then the other. You have to go back and forth to each screw, allowing the screws to compress the housing, so that the spring stays straight all the way till the housing is seated. When i got the 3 spring set from Riff Raff i compared them to my spring and i was shocked to see the difference in the length of my old spring! It may not seem like much but when the new spring is just about 1 1/4 inch long and the old one is a little more than 1/8" shorter then that means that it takes a lot less pressure to start sending fuel back to the tank.
    That means the injectors will be starving for the proper amount of fuel.
    I was able to idle but trying to go on the road kept me heading back to the parking spot.
    I haven't tried to check the running status yet because i'm waiting on a steering pump. As i did the under the valve cover check the 2nd time my leg snapped one of the plastic inlets on the return line going to the steering pump reservoir. No one sells the reservoir that has 2 return inlets.Turned out to be a blessing because when i removed the belt i found that there was was too much in and out movement of the shaft and I'm able to take care of that before I got stuck somewhere.
    Also did fuel pressure check after fuel pump under truck and that was just fine.
    Looking at condition underneath i saw that my sway bar links were shot. Got them replaced.
    The steering damper was dented up and I took it off and it had no compression at all and the shaft was visibly bent. Changed that out . Oh yeah, when I took it out the bolt next to the wheel , it was tightened down but the end of the bolt only reached halfway through the nut. Not a very good job, whoever changed the damper the last time. Fortunately the bolts that came with the sway bar links were the same size and i used one of them and used the original bolt that was on the truck.
    I never had any diesel experience before i started
    driving this truck.
    When i had fuel seeping out of the fuel bowl, a couple of years ago, i could see it was coming out of the water seperator valve. I took my phone video , of the problem, to a diesel shop and was given an estimate of 600 dollars.
    I looked at the estimate and the few parts that were on it and was also told about the days that my repair would have to wait in line and said thank you and that i would think about it.
    When I saw the 600 dollar price tag I knew that I was going to see if I could do it myself and walked the mile, or so, the parts store and bought the 30 dollar part .
    Looked up information online and it took me a while to get the delicate 20 inch pounds of torque on the 2 screws, just right. It hasn't leaked since.
    Getting familiar with the inside of your engine compartment and underneath your vehicle can really help you to avoid problems that could break you down or even cause a dangerous driving situation.
    And besides that you won't always be at the mercy of someone that you can only hope will only repair or replace what is necessary ,at 100+ per hour .
    I am in the hopes that the spring is what was keeping me off the road.
    I wish that I would have tried that first. Could have saved a lot of money but at the same time I would not have become more familiar with my truck and more confident in knowing
    that I am able to work on it. I wouldn't have found the messed up parts waiting to fail at the worst times and having to get towed and paying and waiting on a shop to get the work done.
    My idm had a lot of oxidation on the case and there were small holes in the diaphragm that is supposed to keep moisture out . A matter of time.
    The icp had small cracks in it from someone using visegrips to take out and replace it without using a 1 1/8" socket. On the rounded top portion of the icp, every place where the teeth dug into the metal tiny cracks had started.
    A matter of time.
    I took out the PCM that someone had a performance chip in at one time. When they removed the chip they just left the open hole to the PCM . When i got the cover off there was dust built up and there were three resistors that had a black covering on them. With the appropriate electrical spray cleaner and a soft bristle brush, the black and dust came clean and maybe I was in time to avoid having to replace that spendy item.
    Oh yeah, don't just tighten things down. There are torque specifications for a reason. Not hard to work a torque wrench.
    I would try the spring first. Riff Raff has the 3 spring kit for 15 bucks plus shipping. They do have the "blue" spring kit but thats more. With the 3 springs you can choose which pressure you want to run. Get a couple or more of the Viton fuel compression sleeves to at a few bucks each. They recommend that you should only use a sleeve once every time you take off the fuel line. I think you'll be okay if you don't change it and you decide, within a few days, which spring you like the best.
    Hopefully that will work for you and others before you spend hundreds.
    Take care,
    John

  • @ThatCreditGuy1
    @ThatCreditGuy1 Год назад +17

    So, what do any of your images have to do with 7.3 Powerstroke engines or Ford trucks?….I’ll stick with Diesel Tech Ron thanks.

    • @billygildark4565
      @billygildark4565 Год назад +4

      Rip Ron….
      But also check out Clint at custom works. Loads of great 7.3 videos.

    • @jamesschultz30
      @jamesschultz30 Год назад +4

      ​@@billygildark4565, clint is awesome, and entertaining.

  • @JimmyPatterson-h3j
    @JimmyPatterson-h3j Год назад +2

    Yes, l am having problems now. Truck cranks up fine but runs really rough. It smooths out when l add rpms up to about 17 where it's rough again. Add rpms again to 20 and it sounds better but power is really not good. I thought it might be clogged injectors or water in the fuel but found no water.

    • @atv55803
      @atv55803 Год назад

      check valley for oil hpop is notorious for leaks ipr sensor too its a classic over design engine complicated nightmare oil leaks are the death of these motors they wont run when you have them

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Hi, you may find more information in the article that was the inspiration for this video: www.autoalmanac.com/7-3-powerstroke-idm-failure-symptoms/
      We hope it helps and you're able to resolve the issue with your truck

  • @stevecarlisle3323
    @stevecarlisle3323 Год назад +6

    Routinely called a FICM, when you go shopping for one, helps prevent that confusing look from the parts guy 😂
    You can buy these rebuilt (repaired).

    • @codyhenry3926
      @codyhenry3926 Год назад +5

      For the 6.n0 they call it a FICM..
      7.🌲 little different...

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

    • @rileeschwegel5153
      @rileeschwegel5153 Месяц назад

      7.3 uses the idm (injector driver module) the 6.0 uses a ficm (fuel injection control module) similar, but different

  • @mudlifejunkiepr3937
    @mudlifejunkiepr3937 Месяц назад

    I learned the hard way the first time when I put it on the scanner it told me and my injectors was bad glow plugs so I replaced all my injectors glow plugs valve cover seals glow plugs and it comes to find out it was my injection control module computer spent all that money but truck last to me a long time and I ran beautiful after that so it was a win-win learning curve about a win-win

  • @Bwanar1
    @Bwanar1 11 месяцев назад

    Much more difficult to diagnose than repair. That's a piece of cake!

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  11 месяцев назад

      Yes, you're correct. It can be annoying to figure out what exactly is wrong with your car

  • @salvatorecabano5482
    @salvatorecabano5482 3 месяца назад +1

    My truck was running perfectly 1 day and then the next there is so much white smoke I can't even see the car behind me. At idle it puffs out alot also. .. please anyone can help.. no blow by and oil is correct color. I filled up the day before and about 25 min later I was having issue . I checked for water in a bottle to see if it separated but didn't.

    • @bretkoepnick1016
      @bretkoepnick1016 3 месяца назад

      Did you accidentally fill with gasoline.

    • @salvatorecabano5482
      @salvatorecabano5482 3 месяца назад

      @@bretkoepnick1016 push rod snapped. 7 dollar fix

    • @buckrogers5893
      @buckrogers5893 2 месяца назад

      @@salvatorecabano5482 push rod? i was idling while filling up with fuel. Took off and started blowing white smoke and quit..Wouldn't re-start and had to get towed. Before this it ran fine but was unable to start without a shot of start fluid....Thinking maybe IDM went out? Like you said, expensive part if you aren't sure its bad. I thought maybe a bad tank of fuel but no problems from other people that day. Thinking maybe turbo went out....Gotta start checking everything and appreciate any suggestions....Saw yours and was wondering what push rod snapped.

  • @RollingThunder85
    @RollingThunder85 Год назад +1

    I think mines failing idk I was decelerating and the engine died so I pushed clutch in while still rolling and tried starting it did nada so I let go of clutch in 3rd at 40mph and after a few hundred feet it started running like crap couldn't get above 2000 rpm so I had my girl hold throttle as I popped the hood hit the bleeder Schrader valve let air out and boom she started running better but still like shit does this sound like idk?

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      That does sound like something is going wrong. It's best to have your car checked by a professional in this case

  • @bobcatwelder00
    @bobcatwelder00 Год назад

    my truck would not start with out ether . i got new module and pow starts up on 2 cycles of the glow plugs

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Thank you for sharing your experience with this. We're happy it worked out for you

    • @hondaxl250k0
      @hondaxl250k0 3 месяца назад

      It still is not right then.. my 97 will start not plugged in and below 0 on one cycle. You still have issues if it takes 2 cycles

  • @jerrystarr4649
    @jerrystarr4649 Год назад

    Yes I am 96year 7.3 the I d m keeps burning up and I can't find the problem. It will run for 5o miles then it b shutdown and will not start again

    • @royroddy9545
      @royroddy9545 Год назад +2

      Wire under the valve covers

    • @stevecarlisle3323
      @stevecarlisle3323 Год назад +1

      @@royroddy9545 the wiring is part of the valve cover gasket. There are just a few brands worth buying.

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Hi, you may find more information in the article that was the inspiration for this video: www.autoalmanac.com/7-3-powerstroke-idm-failure-symptoms/
      But also, when you're unable to solve the problem yourself, it's best to bring your car to a professional so they can diagnose and fix the issue for you

  • @joegarren6529
    @joegarren6529 Год назад

    To sound so professional why are we looking at nothing but small cars?

    • @autoalmanacofficial
      @autoalmanacofficial  Год назад

      Efficiency meets elegance, and sometimes the best things come in small packages. Plus, who said professionalism couldn't have a touch of style and fuel efficiency?

  • @shbroneswygert6243
    @shbroneswygert6243 8 месяцев назад

    I replace the idm and still want start